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DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 




H. M. STANLEY. 



LIVINGSTOl\E'S AFRICA. 



TERILOCS ADVENTORES AND EXTENSIVE DISCOVERIES 

IN TUE 

Interior of Africa, 

OP 

"-"DAVID LIVINGSTONE, LL.D., D.C.L., 

TOGETHER WITH 

THE REMARKABLE SUCCESS AND IMPORTANT RESULTS 



' OF THE 

Herald-Stanley Expedition, 

AS FURNISHED BY H. M. STANLEY, ESQ., 

SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE NEW YORK HERALD. 

BEING 

.'. COMPLETE RELIABLE AND GRAPHIC HISTORY OF THE EXTENSIVE EXPLORATIONS, IMPOtt- 

TANT DISCOVERIES AND THRILLING ADVENTURES OF THE GREATEST EXPLORER OF MODERN 

TIMKS, IN THE RICHEST AND WILDEST COUNTRY UPON THE FACE OF THE EARTH, 

AiMONQ SAVAGE MEN, FEROCIOUS BEASTS, DEADLY REPTILES, POISONOUS INSECTS, 

ETC., ETC., COVERING A PERIOD OF NEARLY TWENTY-EIGHT YEARS, AND 

INCLUDING A FULL AND GRAPHIC ACCOUNT OF THE HERALD-STANLEY 

EXPEDITION, AND WHAT IT EXPERIENCED AND ACCOMPLISHED, 

ETC., ETC., ETC. 

^j wliich is added a Sketch of otlier Important Discoveries in Africa, 

INCLUDING 

THE CELEBRATED DIAMOND DIGGINGS AT COLESBERG KOPJE. 

:lLUSTRATED with numerous ENGRA>INig::Sj^^ 

SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. -- - >- 



-•o^ 






HUBBARD BROS., PHILA. & BOSTON ; 

Valley Publishing Company, Chicago and St. Louis. 
GooDWYN & Co., New Orleans, La. A. L. Bancroft 
& Co., San Francisco, Cal. John Fleeharty, 
Davenport, Iowa. H. A. W. Black- 
burn, Detroit, Mich. 



Entered according to Act of Conj-'ess, iu the year 1S72, by 

HUBBARD BROS., 

In tho O'tEce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washlngtcn, D. C. 



JJTyj/ 

'L7f 



'I'Z PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 



The Interest taken in nnxlern times in books of travel 
is significant of the growing feeling of sympathy with all 
manifestations of human activity. The railroad and the 
telegraph have brought the most distant nations into 
closer commercial and social rckitions than it was pojssible 
to create, even fifty years ago. line nations of the East, 
India, China, Japan, Turkey, have all begun to feel the 
need of opening their gates to the advent of civilization. 
Even the tribes of Central Africa have been made better 
acquainted with the rest of the world, through the labors 
of recent explorers, than they have ever been before. 
Among these travellers, wIk; have devoted the best 
energies of their lives in exploring these hitherto inaccessi- 
ble countries, the most distinguished is Doctor Living- 
stone. His enthusiasm, his real Christian charity, his 
devotion to the abolition of the slave trade — that curse 
of Africa — have made tlic accounts of his explorations 
])eculiarly interesting to all (classes of intelligent readers. 
The publishers of this volume, therefore, present it to the 
])ublic with confidence. It contains, in a compact form, 
tUii hiftory of all of Doctor Livingstone's voyages of dis- 
covery, and at a price which vill enable those to ]iosses6 it 



Vi PUBLISHERS^ PREFACE. 

-who could not aiFord to purclmse the expensive volumes in 
which the results of his- explorations were originally pub- 
lished. Nothing has been omitted that would be of 
interest to the general reader. Only such records of 
scientific observations, as would be of use only to the special 
students in their various branches of scientific research, 
are not here reproduced. The accounts, from Doctor 
I^ivingstone himself, of his successive voyages; the origin 
of the reports of his death ; the result of the search expe- 
dition, sent out by the New Yovh Herald , under Mr. 
Stanley ; the letters in which Doctor Livingstone narrates 
what he Avas doing while the world supposed him dead ; 
the results of his discoveries, and what he expects to do to 
complete his life-long devotion to African exploration, 
Avill be found in the pages of this volume, told with that 
charm of simplicity of style which has made his former 
narrations so interesting and popular. 

Of the style in which the volume is prepared, and for 
which the publishers are responsible, they feel it unneces- 
sary to say more than that no care or pains have been 
spared upon it. The book will speak for itself; and they 
feel assured that their efforts to please will be duly appre- 
ciated by the public. 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION. 



Personal Sketch — Highland Ancestors — Family Traditions-— Grandfather re- 
moves to t'ho Lowlands — Parents — Early Labors and Efforts — Evening 
School — Love of Reading — Religious Impressions — Medical Education — 
Youthful Travels — ^Geology — Mental Discipline — Study in Glasgow — Londou 
Missionary Society — N trve Village — Medical Diploma — Theological Studies 
— Departure for Africa No Claim to Literary Accomplishments Page y 



CHAPTER L 

The BakwSin Country — Study of the Language — Mab6tsa Station — A Lion 
Encounter — Virus of the Teeth of Lions — Sochele — Baptism of Sechelo — 
Opposition of the Natives — Purchase Land at Chonudne — Relations with 
the People — Their Intelligence — Prolonged Drought — Consequent Trials — 
The Hunting Hopo 18 



CHAPTER IL 

The Boers — Their Treatment of the Natives — The Tale of the Cannon — The 
Boers threaten Sechele — In violation of Treaty, they expel Missionaries — 
They attack the Bak'Wains — Their Mode of Fighting — The Natives killed 
and the School-Children carried into Slavery — Destruction of English Pro- 
perty — Continued Hostility of the Boers — The Journey North — Prepara- 
tions — Fellow-Travellers 28 



CHAPTER IIL 

Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849 — Companions — Our Route — Scroti!, 
a Fountain in the Desert — The Hyena — The Chief Sekomi — Dangers — The 
Wandering Guide — Cross Purposes — Slow Progress — Want of Water — The 
Bait- Pan at Nchokotsa — The Mirage — Reach the River Zouga — The Quaker* 
f/f Africa — Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849 — Its Extent — Small 
"Depth of Water — The Bamangwato and their Chief — Desire to visit Sebi- 
tuane, the Chief of the Makololo — Refusal of Lechulatcbe to furnish us with 
(^&ides — The Banks of tho Zouga 34 



CHAPTER IV. 

Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane — Reach the Zoug£^-The 
Tsetse — A Party of Englishmen — Death of Mr. Rider — Obtain Guides- 
Children fall sick with Fever — Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sobituano— 
Return to Kolobeng — Make a Third Start thence — Reach Nchokotsa — Chu 



'•"I CONTENTS. 

(Jjidc Slioho — The Raniiji'ia — An Uijly Chief — Tlic Tsetse- -Bite fata! to 
l>(»iiiefti3 Animals, but haruile"<si to WiM Animais Jind Man — Opention 01 
the I'oison — Losses caused by it — The Makoloio — Our .Meeting wi h Sebi 
tuane — His Sudden lllncn.s and Dc-Hiii — ^urrecded by his Daughter— Uer 
Friendliness to us — Disi-nvfry. in dune, IS.)1. of the Zambesi flowing in the 
Centre of the Continent — Deienuiiit; lu st;nd Family to Fr.gland — Return to 
the Cajic in April, 1662 — Safe Transit through the Cadre Country duriui* 
Ilo«tili'iics — Need of a " S>>ec'ial Correspondeat."— Kindnos of the London 
Aliss' inary Society — .Assistance afforded by the Astronumer- Royal at the 
("upe F:»g« J-1 

CHAPTER V. 

Siart. in June, IS52, on the Last and Longest Juurney from C;ipe Town - 
Companions — Wagon-Travelling — Migration of Springbucks — The Orange 
River — Territory of the Griquas and Rechuanas — The (/riquas — The Chief 
Waterboer — Ilis Wise and Eiiergetio (luvernment — Jlis Fidelity — Success 
of the Missionaries among the Griqua.s and BecnuanavS — .Manifest Improve- 
ment of the Native Character — Dress u{ the Nat vrs — .Articles of Commerce 
in the Country of the Bcchuanas — Their Unwilh = ues? to learn and lleadi 
ness to criticize ,.... it! 



CHAPTER VL 

Kuruinan — Its fine Fountain — The Bible transhitod by Mr. Moffat — Capa- 
bilities of the Language — Christianity among the Natives — Disgraceful 
Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains — Letter from Sechele — Details of the 
Attack — Destruction of House and Property at Kolobeng — The Boers vow 
Vengeance agpinst me — Consequent Difficulty of getting Servants to accoin- 
])any me on my Journey — Start in November, 1S52 — Meet Sechele on his 
way to Enghmd to obtain Redress from the Queen — He is unable to proceed 
beyond the Cape — Meet Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami — Reach 
Litubaruba — The Cave Lepelole — Superstitions regarding it — Impoverished 
State of the Bakwains — Retaliation on the Boera — Slavery — Attachment of 
the Bechuanas to Children 63 



CHAPTER VIL 

Departure from the Country of the Bakwains — Large Black Ant — Habits of 
Old Lions — Cowardice of the Lion — Its Dread of a Snare — Major Vardon's 
Note — The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich — Seldoia 
attacks full-grown Animals — Buffaloes and Lions — Sekomi's Ideas of Ho- 
nesty — Gordon Cumming's Hunting Adventures — A Word of Advice fof 
Ycuag Sportsmen — Busbvfomcn drawing Water 73 



CHAPTER VIIL 

Effectr of Missionary Efforts — Belief in the Deity — Departure from their 
C. niitry — Nchokotsa — The Bushmen — Their Superstitions — Elephant-Hnnt- 
iLg — The Chief Kaisa— His Fear of Responsibility — Severe Labor in cutting 
our Way — Party seize J with Fever — Discovery of Grape-Bearing Vines — 
Difficulty of passing through the Forest — Sickness of my Companion — The 
Bushmen — Their Mode ot destroying Lions — Poisons — .\ Pontooning Ex- 
pediti )n — The Chobe — .Arrive at the Village of Moremi — Surprise of the 
Makoloio a; our Sudden -Appearance — Cross the Chobe on our yla^v it 
Liuyanti .. . 86 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER rX. 

Reception at Linyanti — The Court Herald — Sekeletu obtains tbe Cbiufla'.rKh'p 
from his Sister — Sekeletu's lieasou for not learning to read the Pibie— 
Public Religious Services in the Kotla — Unfavorable Assuciatiuus ol' tli^ 
Place — Native Doctors — Proposals to teach the Makololo to read — Sekeieiu'!' 
Present — Reason for accepting it — Trading in ivory — Accidental Fire — 
Presents for Sekeletu Page &fc 



CHAPTER X. 

Ihe Fever — Its Symptoms — Remedies of the Native Doctors — Hospitality of 
Sekeletu and his People — They cultivate largely — The Makalaka or Subject 
Tribes — Sebituane's Policy respecting them — Their Affection for hiui— Pro- 
ducts of the Soil — Instrument of Culture — The Tribute — Distributed I y the 
Chief — A Warlike Demonstration — Lechulatebe's Provocations — The Ma- 
kololo determine to punish him 104 



CHAPTER XI. 

Departure from Linyanti for Seshcke — Level Country — Ant-Hills — Wild Dato- 
Trecs — Appearance of our Attendants on the Mar^a — The Chief's Guard— 
They attempt to ride on Oxbaok — Reception at the Villages — Presents of 
Beer and' Milk — Eating »vith the Hand — The Chief provides the Oxen fol 
Slaughter — Social Mode of Eating — Cleanliness of Maiiololo Huts — Their 
Construction and Appearance — The Beds — Cross the Leeambye — Aspect of 
this part of the Country — Hunting — An Eland 109 



CHAPTER XIL 

Procure Canoes and ascena the Leeambye — Beautiful Islands — Winter Land- 
scape — Industry and Skill of the Banyeti — Rapids — Falls of Gonye — Naliole, 
the Capital, built on an Artificial Mound — Santuru, a Great Hunter — ^rhe 
Barotse — More Religious Feeliog — Belief in a Future State and in the 
Existence of Spiritual Beings — Hippopotamus-Hunters — No Healthy Loca- 
tion — Determine to go to Loanda — Buffaloes, Elands, and Lions above 
Libonta — Two Arabs from Zanzibar — Their Opinion of the Portuguese and 
the English — Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu — Joy of the People at th« 
First Visit of their Chief — Return to Sesheke — Heathenism lift 



CHAPTER XIII 

Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey — A Picho — Twenty-Seven I^Ien 
fppointed to accompany mo to the West — Eagerness of the Makololo for 
Direct Trade with the Coast — Effects of Fever — A Makololo Question — Re- 
flections — Tlie Outfit for the Journey — 11th November, 1853, leave LinyauU 
and embark on the Chobe — Dangerous Hipp(>[)otanii — Banks of Chobe — 
Irees — The Course of the River — The Island Mparia at tiie Confluence of 
the Chobe and the Leeambye — Anecdute — Ascend tlie Leeambye — Public 
Addresses at Soslieke — Attention of the i'oDple — llc.^ults — Proceed up the 
River — The Fruit which yields Nujc vomica — The Rapids — Ilippoputauii and 
tbeir Young 128 



CONTENTS. 



CttlPTER XIV. 

Increasing Beauty :f tie Country — Mode of spending the Day — The People 
»ud the Falls of Gonye — A Makololo Foray — A second prevented, and Cap- 
tives delivered up — Politeness and Liberality of the People — The Kaics— 
Present of Oxen — Death from a Lion's Bite at Libonta — Continued Kindness 
— Arrangements for spending the Night during the Journey — Cooking and 
Washing — Abundance of Animal Life — Alligators — Narrow Escape of one 
of my Men — Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator — Large Game — 
Shoals of Fish — Hippopotami Page 1'^^ 



CUAPTER XV. 

Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captiv«3S — Navigation of 
th.9 Leeambye — Capabilities of this District — The Leeba — Buflalo-llunt— 
Suspicion of the Balonda — Sekelcnke's Present — Message from Manenko, a 
Female Chief — Mambari Traders — A Dream — Sheak6ndo and his People — 
Interview with Nyamodna, another Female Chief — Court Etiquette — Hair 
versus Wool — Increase of Superstition — Arrival of Manenko : her Appear- 
ance and Husband — Mode of Salutation — Anklets — Embassy, with a Present 
from Masiko — Roast Beef — Manioc — Magic Lantern — Manenko an Accom- 
plished Scold : compels us to wait 14S 



CHAPTER XVI. 

tfyamoana's Present — Charms — Manenko's Pedestrian Powers — Rain — Hunger 
— Dense Forests — Artificial Bee-Hives — Villagers lend the Roofs of their 
Houses — Divination and Idols — Manenko's Whims — Shinte's Messengers 
and Present — The Proper Way to approach a Village — A Merman — Enter 
Shinte's Town : its Appearance — Meet two Half-Caste Slave-Traders — The 
Makololo scorn them — The Balonda Real Negroes — Grand Reception from 
Shiute — His Kotla — Ceremony of Introduction — The Orators — Women — 
Musicians and Musical Instruments — A Disagreeable Request — Private In- 
terviews with Shinte — Give him an Ox — Manenko's New Hut — Conversa- 
tion with Shiute — Ivolimb6ta's Proposal — Balonda's Punctiliousness — Selling 
Children — Kidnapping — Shinte's Ofl'er of a Slave — Magic Lantern — Alarm 
of Women — Dolay — Sambdnza returns intoxicated — The Last and Greatest 
Proof of Shinte's Friendship 162 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Loive Shinto— Manioc-Gardens — Presents of Food — Punctiliousness of the 
Balonda — Cazembe — Inquiries for English Cotton Goods — Intemese's Fiction 
— Lots of Pontoon — Plains covered with Water — A Night on an Island — 
Loan of the Roofs of Huts — A Halt — Omnivorous Fish — Natives* Mode of 
catching them — The Village of a Half-Brother of Katema: his Speech and 
Present — Our Guide's Perversity — Mozenkwa's Pleasant Home and Family 
—A Messenger from Katema — Quendende's Village : his Kindness — Crop 
of Wool — Meet People from tho Town of i\Iatiamvo — Fireside Talk— Ma- 
tiamvo's Character and Conduct — Presentation at Katema's Court : his Pre- 
sent — Interview on the following Day — Cattle — A Feast and a Makclolc 
Dance— S»>i;acity of Ants |8Q 



CONTENTS xi 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

The Watershed between the Northern and Southern Rivers — A Deep Valley — 
Rustic Bridge — Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys — Village of Kabinjc 
— Demand for Gunpowder and English Calico — The Kasai — Vexatious Trick 
— Want of Food — No Game — Katendc's Unreasonable Demand — A Grave 
Offence — Toll-Bridge Keeper — Greedy Guides — Flooded Valleys —Swim the 
Kfuana Lok6 — Prompt Kindness of my Men — Makololo Remarks on the rict 
Uncultivated Valleys — Difference in the Color of Africans — Reach a Village 
of the Chiboque — The Head Man's Impudent Message — Surrounds our En- 
campment with his Warriors — The Pretence — Their Demand — Prospect of a 
Fight — Way in which it was averted — Change our Path — The Ox Sinbad — 
Insubordination suppressed — Beset by Enemies — A Robber Party — More 
Troubles — Detained by longa Panza — His Village — Annoyed by Bangala 
Traders — My Men discouraged — Their Determination and Precaution Pagel99 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Guides Prepaid — Bark Canoes — Deserted by Guides — Native Traders — Valley 
of the Quango — The Chief Sansawe — His Hostility — Pass him safely — Q'ha 
Pilver Quango — Chief's Mode of dressing his Hair — Opposition — Opportune 
Aid by Cypriano — His Generous Hospitality — Arrive at Cassange — A Good 
Supper — Kindness of Captain Neves — Portuguese Curiosity and Questions — 
Anniversary of the Resurrection — No Prejudice against Color — Country 
around Cassange — Sell Sekeletu's Ivory — Makololo's Surprise at the High 
Price obtained — Proposal to return Home, and Reasons — Soldier-Guide — 
Tala Mungongo, Village of — Civility of Basongo — Fever — Enter District of 
Ambaca — Good Fruits of Jesuit Teaching — The Tampan: its Bite — Uni- 
versal Hospitality of the Portuguese — A Tale of the Mambari — Exhilarating 
Effects of Highland Scenery — District of Golungo Alto — Fertility — Forests 
of Gigantic Timber — Native Carpenters — CoflFee-Estate — Sterility of Country 
near the Coast — Fears of the Makololo — Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to 
Loanda 224 



CHAPTER XX. 

Continued Sickness — Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and her Majesty's 
OflBcers — Mr. Gabriel's Unwearied Hospitality — Serious Deportment of the 
Makololo — They visit Ships of War — Politeness of the Officers and Men — 
The Makololo attend Mass in the Cathedral — Their Remarks — Find Employ- 
ment in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal — Their Superior Judgment 
respecting Goods — Beneficial Influence of the Bishop of Angola — The City 
of St. Paul de Loanda — The Harbor — Custom-House — No English Merchanti 
— Sincerity of the Portuguese Government in suppressing the Slavo-Trade— 
Convict Soldiers — Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sckeletu — Outfit 
— Lea.ve Loanda 20th September, 1854- — Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as fat 
as Icollo i Bengo — Women spinning Cotton — Cazengo : its Coffee-Ilanta- 
tions — South American Trees — Ruins of Iron-Foundry — Native Miners— 
Coftee-Plantations — Return to Golungo Alto — Self-Complacency of the Ma- 
kololo — Fever — Jaundice— Insanity 251 

CHAPTER XXL 

Visit a Deserted Convent — Favorable Report of Jesuits and their Teaching- 
Marriages and Funjerals — Litigation — Mr. Canto's Illness — Bad Behavior ol 
his Slaves — An Ejitertainment— Ide.as on Free Labor^-Loas of Amerioau 

I* 



xii OCK TENTS 

Cctton-Sceil— Abundance of Jotton in the Country — Sickness of Sektieta's 
Horso — Eclipse of the Sun — Insects which distill Water — Experiments with 
them — Proceed to Amhaca — Present from Mr. Schut, of Loanda — A''isit Pungv 
Andongo — Its Good I'asturage, Grain, Fruit, &c. — The Fort and Columnar 
I^ocks— Salubrity of Pungo Andongo— Price of a Slave— A Merchant-Prince 
--Jlis Hospitality — Hear of the Loss of my Papers in "Forerunner" — N:-r- 
few Escape from an Alligator — Ancient Uurial-Places — Neglect of Agricul 
ti.ro in Angola — Manioc the Staple Product — Its Cheapness — Sickness — 
Friendly Visit from a Colored Priest — The Prince of Congo — No Priests Id 
thy Interior of Angola Page 2G5 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Leave Pungo Andongo — Extent of Portuguese Power — Meet Traders and Car- 
riers — Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo — Cassange Village — Quinine 
and Cathory — Sickness of Captain Xeves s Infant — Loss of Lifo from the 
Ordeal — Wide-Spread Superstitions— The Chieftainship — Receivi- Copies of 
the "Times" — Trading Pumbeiros- Present for Matiamvo — Fever after 
Westerly Winds — Capabilities of Angola for producing the Haw Materials 
of English Manufacture — Trading- Parties with Ivory — More Fever — A 
Hyena's Choice — Makolulo Opinion of the Portuguese — C^'priano's Debt- - 
A Funeral — Dread of Disembodied Spirits^ — Crossing the Quango — Amba- 
kistas called "The Jews of Angola" — Fashions of the Bashinje — Approach 
the Village of Sansawe — His Idea of Dignity — The Pombeiros' Present — • 
Long Detention — A Blow on the Beard — Attacked in a Forest — Sudden 
Cor.version of a Fighting Chief to Peace-Principles by means of a P.e- 
volver — No Blood shed in consequence — llato of Travelling — Feeders of the 
Congo or Zaire — Obliged to refuse Presents — Cross the Loajiiaa — Appear- 
ance of People: Hair-Fashioas 230 

CHAPTER XXIIL 

Make a D6tour southward — The Chihombo — Cabango — Send a Sketch of the 
Country to Mr. Gabriel — The Chief Bango — Valley of the Locmbwe — Fune- 
ral Observances — Agreeable Intercourse with Kawawa — His Impudent De- 
mand 2y8 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Level Plains — Vultures — Twenty-Seventh Attack of Fever — Reach Katetna's 
Town — His Renewed Hospitality — Ford Southern Branch of Lake Dilulo — 
Hearty V/elcome from Shinte — Nyamoana now a Widow — Purchase Canoos 
and descend the Lccba — Des])atch a Message to Manenko — Arrival of her 
Husband Sambanza — Mamba we Hunters — Charged by a Buffalo — Reception 
from the Peojile of Libonta — Exi)laiQ the Causes of our Long Delay —Fit- 
geine's Speech — Thanksgiving Services — Appearanco of my " Braves" — V/cn- 
derful Kindness of the Peop^le 303 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Co!na} (>f b.rds called Linkololo — The Village of Chitlane — Murder of Mpo- 
I'lo's Daughter — Execution of the Murderer and his Wife — My Companioua 
find that their V/ives have married other Husbands — Sunday — A Party from 
.Ma.-iiko — Freedom of Speech — Canoe struck by a Hippopotamus — Aj^pear- 
iiM"o of Tree? at the End of Winter — Murky Atmosphere — Surprising Amount 
cf Organic Life — The Packages forwanied by Mr. Moffat — Makololo Suspi- 
cion.-- and li-filv to tbf .Matebeb- wliu brought them — Convey the Goods tu 
tku lsi:tii>i ikuU build a Uui ovcr iLcui — A -<;*;rtiiiu that Sii K. Murfbi>v o bad 



CONTENTS. xm 

recognised the True Form of African Continent — Arriva. at Linyanti — A 
Grand Picho — Shrewd Inquirj' — Sekeletu in his Uniform — A Trading-Pjirtj 
sent to Loanda with Ivory — Mr. Gabriel's Kindness to them — Two Makololo 
Forays during our Absence — The Makohjlo desire to be nearer the Market- - 
Opinions upon a Change of Residence — Sekeletu's Hospitality — Sekeletu 
wishes to purchase a Sugar-Mill, &c. — The Donkeys — Influence among tho 
Native3~"Food fit for a Chief" — Parting Words of Mamiro — Motibe's 
Eicusea ..... Page 311 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

9: arlure from Linyanti — A Thunder-Storm — An Act of Genuine Kindness— 
.itted out a Second Time by the Makolulo — Sail down the Leeambye — Vic- 
toria Falls — Native Names — Columns of Vapor — Gigantic Crack — Wear of 
the Rocks — Second Visit to the Falls — Part with Sekeletu — Night-Tra- 
velling — Moyara's Village — Savage Customs of the Eatuka — A Chain of 
Trading-Stations — ''The Well of Joy" — First Traces of Trade with Euro- 
peans — Knocking out the Frcmt Teeth — Facetious Explanation — Degrada- 
tion of the Batoka — Description of the Travelling-Party — Cross the Uuguesi 
— Ruin? of a Large Town 326 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

Low Hills — A Wounded Buffalo assisted — Buffalo-Bird — Rhin-'ceros-Bird — 
Tho Honey-Guide — The White Mountain — Scbituane's Old Hume — Ho>file 
Village — Prophetic Frenzy — Friendly Batoka — Clothing despised — Method 
of Salutation — The Cai>tive released — The Village of Monze — Aspect of the 
Country — Visit from the Chief Mouze and his Wife — Central Healthy Loca- 
tions — Friendly Feelings of the People in reference to a White Resident — ■ 
Kindness and Remarks uf Monze's Sister — Generosity of ihe Inhabitants — 
Their Anxiety for Medicine — Hooping-Cough 339 



CHAPTER XXVIIL 



'autiful Valley — Buffalo — My Young Men kill two Elephants — Tho Hunt — 
Semalcmbue — His Presents — Joy in prospect of living in Peace — Trade — His 



Beaut 

Sem; ... 

People's Way of wearing their Hair — Their Mode of Salutation — Old En- 
cauipn^.ent — Sebituane's former Residence — Ford of Kafue — Prodigious 
Quantities of Large Game — Their Tameuess — Rains — Less Sickness than ia 
the Journey to Luanda — Reason — Charge from an Elephant — Vast Amount 
of Animal Life on the Zambesi — Water of River discolored — An Island with 
Buffaloes and Men on it — Native Devices for killing Game — Tsetse now ia 
Country — Agriculti:-ral Industry — An Albino murdered by his Mother — 
"Uuilty of Tlolo" — Women who make their Mouths ''like those of Ducks" 
— First Symptom of the Slave-Trade on this Side — Selole's Hostility — An 
Armed Party hoaxed — An Italian Marauder slain — Elephant's Tenacity of 
Life — A AVord to Young Sportsmen — Mr. Oswell's Adventure with an Ele- 
phant: Narrow Escape — Mbu^uma's Village — Suspicious Ccmduct of his 
People — Guides attempt to detain us — Tho Village ani People of Ma- 
Mburuma — Character our Guides give of us 35J 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

ft ifluence of Loangwa and Zambesi — Hostile Appearances — Ruins of a 
Church — Turmoil of Spirit — Cross the River — Friendly Parting — Tho Silaa- 
lion of Zumbo for Commerce — Pleasant Gardens — Dr. Lacorda's Visit tc 
Cazeabo — Pereira's Statement — Unsuccessful Attempt to ostabii^jh Trade 



•Xiv CONTENTS. 

with tho People of Cazembe — Ono of my Men tossed by a Buffalo- —Meet « 
Man with Jacket and Hat on — Hear of the Portuguese and Native War — 
Dancing for Corn — Mpende's Hostility — Incantations — A Fight anticipated — 
Courage and Remarks of my Men — Visit from two old Councillors of Mpende 
— Their Opinion of tho English — Mpende concludes not to fight us — Hij 
subsequent Friendship — Aids us to cross the River — Desertion of one of my 
Men — Meet Native Traders with American Calico — Boroma — Freshets — 
Leave the River — Loquacious Guide — Nyampungo, the Rain-Charmer — An 
Oil Man— No Silver— Gold- Washing— Nj Cattle Page 372 

CHAPTER XXX. 

An Elephant-Hunt — Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success — Nativ* 
Mode of Expression — Working of Game-Laws — A Feast — Laughing Hyenaa 
— Numerous Insects — Curious Notes of Birds of Song — Caterpillars — Butter- 
flies — Silica — The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants — Rhinoceros-Adventure 
— Honey and Bees'-Wax — Superstitious Reverence for the Lion — Slow Tra- 
relling — Grapes — The Ue — Monina's Village — Native Names — Suspected of 
Falsehood — War-Dan<;e — Insanity and Disappearance of Monahin — Fruit- 
less Search — Monina's Sympathy — The Sand-River Tangwe — The Ordeal 
Muavi : its Victims — An Unreasonable Man — " Woman's Rights" — Presents 
— Temperance — A Winding Course to shun Villages — Banyai Complexion 
and Hair — Mushrooms — The Tubers, Mokuri — The Tree Shekabakadzi — 
Face of the Country — Pot-Holes — Pursued by a Party of Natives — Unplea- 
sant Threat — Aroused by a Company of Soldiers — A Civilized Breakfast — 
Arrival at Tete 387 

CHAPTER XXXL 

Kind Reception from the Commandant — His Generosity to my Men — Tho Vil- 
lage of Tete — The Population — Distilled Spirits — The Fort — Cause of the 
Decadence of Portuguese Power — Former Trade — Slaves employed in Gold- 
Washing — Slave-Trade drained the Country of Laborers — The Rebel 
Nyaude's Stockade — He burns Tete — Extensive Field of Sugarcane — The 
Commandant's Good Reputation among the Natives — Providential Guidance 
— Seams of Coal — A Hot Spring — Picturesque Country — Water-Carriage U, 
the Coal-Fields — Workmen's Wages — Exports — Price of Provisions — Visit 
Gold- Washings — Coal within a Gold-Field — •Pres«nt from Major Sicard-- 
Natives raise Wheat, Ac. — Liberality of the Commandant — Geographical 
Information from Senhor Candido — Earthquakes — Disinterested Kindnesa 
of the Portuguese 405 

CHAPTER XXXIL 

Leave Tete and proceed down the River — Pass the Stockade of Bonga — War- 
Drum at Shiramba — Reach Senna — Its Ruinous State — Landeens levy Fines 
apoa the Inhabitants — Cowardice of Native Militia — Boat-Building at Senna 
— Our Departure — Fever: its Effects — Kindly received into the House of 
Colonel Nunes at Kilimane — Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Wahh 
— Joy imbittered — Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, Ac. — De- 
sirableness of Missionary Societies selecting Healthy Stations — Arrange- 
ments on leaving ray Men — Site of Kilimane — Unhealthiness — Arrival of 
II.M. Brig " Frolic" — Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England — Rough 
Passage in the Boats to the Ship — Sekwebu's Alarm — Sail for Mauritius- 
Sekwebu on board : he becomes insane : drowns himself — Kindness of Major- 
General C. M. Hay— Escape Shipwreck— Reach Home 420 

HiSTORicAL Sketch of Hiscovkrv in Africa .»,., 434 



CONTENTS. XV 

CHAPTER XXXIIL 

The time spent in England — Honors conferred on Dr. Livingstone — The next 
Expedition — The Steamer Pearl — The launch "'Ma Robert" — The Zambesi 
— Firing Up with Ebony and Lignum Vitae — The Baobab Tree — Tettc — 
Superstftions of the Natives— Gun and other Doctors — Morumbwa— A Na- 
tive Concert — An African Christmas — The African Language— The Flood 
of the Zambesi — African Fever — The Shire — The "Murcbison" Cataracts— 
The Divine Right of Kings — Crazy Guides Pago 434 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Search for Lake Nyassa — The Chief Tinjane— Elephant Marsh — The Borassua 
Palm — Discovering Lake Nyassa — Protected Villages — A Woman Rondo — 
Cotton Raising and Iron Working — The Pepelc, an Evidence of the Forco 
of Fashion — Manganja Beer — The Price of Slaves 442 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

Returning the Makololo to their Homes — Resemblance of Africans to Ancient 

. Assyrians — The Order of March — Deposits of Coal — The Ruins of Z:imbo — 

The Honey Bird — The Baenda-pezi, or " Go-nakeds " — Native Africau 

Poets 450 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

V^ictoria Falls — Comparison with Niagara — The View from Gaiden Island — 
Cfolumns of Vapor — The Upper Zambesi — Meat- Eaters and Grain-Eaters — 
A Fashionable Lady — Polygamy — Smoking Bang — The Labor Question — 
Batoka Manners — The Color of the Africans — The Tsetse— Return to 
Tette 461 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Arrival of the " Pioneer" — The Missionaries — Again on the Shire — Freeing a 
Party of Slaves — On to Lake Nyassa — Its Banks Thickly Settled — A Cake 
of Flies — Lost for Four Days — The Zambesi Again — Arrival of Mrs. Liv- 
inffstone — Her Death and Burial — Exploring the Rovuma — Returning t(t tlie 
"Pioneer" , 473 



CHAPTER XXXVIIL 

Up the Shire Again— Notes on Crocodiles — Varieties of Poisons — Native Su- 
perstitions — The Cataracts of the Shire — A Woman Chief — Return to th© 
Coast — Trip to Bombay — Arrival in England 4S0 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Starts on a Fresh Voyage — Report of his Death — Doubts of the Aecurncy of 
the Story — Search Expedition — The Herald Expedition — Livingstone Found 
— The Meeting — Livingstone's Srorv of his Travels — The End of Nya99:i 
Lake — The Head Waters of the Nile — Lake Lincoln — Livingstotie and 
Stanley Exploring in Company — Return of the Herald Expedition 492 



XVl CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XL. 

Stanley Arrives at Marseilles — Livingstone's Insensibility to Fear — Livinoj- 
stone's Letter to the HeraUl — The Evils of thu Slave Trade — Bloated Africiiu 
Aristoerats — Tlie Beauty of the Women — Their Ornaments — Dyin<; ol a 
Brolien Heart — A Cannibal Nation — Lake Lincoln — A Comparison of Adi- 
eans with Europeans — Native Markets Page 513 

CHAPTER XLL 

Duubts of the Accounts br(>uu;ht by Stanloy — Proofs of their Veracity — Grass 
Ten Feet Ili^h — Natural (Jrass l>rid<res — The Home of tlic Gorilla — Winter 
Quarters — Ulcerated Fet-'t — (lorilla E iter? — Livingstone tu Lord Clarendon— 
The Springs of the Nile — The Mountains of the Moon — The Secret of the 
Nile — Cannibals — Guns Tliought. to bo Supernatural — The Reasons why 
the Expedition Failed — The Further Discoveries Livingstone Hopes to 
Make 531 

Historical Sketch ov Discovkriijs in* Africa 586 

The Diamoxd Diggings at New Rush 597 



JOURNEYS AND RESEARCHES 



IN 



SOUTH AFRICA. 



INTRODUCTION. 



My own inclination would lead me to say as little as pos- 
sible about myself; but several friends, in whose judgment 
I have confidence, have suggested that, as the reader likes to 
know something about the author, a short account of his 
origin and early life would lend additional interest to this 
book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism ; and, if 
any apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in 
the fact that it is not very long, and contains only one inci- 
dent of which I have reason to be proud. 

Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, fight- 
ing for the old line of kings ; and our grandfather was a 
small farmer in Ulva, where my father was born. It is one 
of that cluster of the Hebrides thus alluded to by Walter 
Scott :— 

** And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, 
And all the group of islets gay 
That guard famed StafTa round."* 

Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the 
traditionary legends which that great writer has since 
made use of in the " Tales of a Grandfather " and other 
works. As a boy I remember listening to him with de- 



* Lord of the Isles, canto iv. 

3 



4 THE AUTUOR S ANCESTORS. 

light, for his memory was stored with a nevcr-cmling 
stock of stories, many of which were wonderfully like 
those J have since heard while sitting by the African even- 
ing fires. Our grandmother, too, used to sing Gaelic 
Bongs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed 
by captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the 
Turks. 

Grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his 
ancestors for six generations of the family before him; 
and the only point of the tradition I feel proud of is this: 
One of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in tho 
district for great wisdom and prudence; and it is related 
that, Avhen he was on his death-bed, he called all his chil- 
dren around him and said, *' Now, in my lifetime I have 
searched most carefully through all the traditions I could 
find of our family, and I never could discover that there 
was a dishonest man among our forefathers. If, therefore, 
any of you or any of your children should take to dis- 
honest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood; 
it does not belong to you. I leave this precept with you : 
Be honest.'* If, therefore, in the following pages I fah 
into any errors, I hope they will be dealt with as honesi 
mistakes, and not as indicating that I have forgotten our 
ancient motto. This event took place at a time when the 
Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much like the 
Cape Caffres, and any one, it was said, could escape 2:>unish- 
ment for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of tho 
plunder to his chieftain. Our ancestors were Roman Catho- 
lics: they were made Protestants by the laird coming 
round with a man having a yellow staff, which would 
seem to have attracted more attention than his teaching, 
for the new religion went long afterward, perhaps it does 
so still, by tho name of "tne religion of tho yellow stick.'* 

Finding his farm in Ulva insufiicient to support a nume- 
rous family, my grandfather removed to Blantyre Works, 
a large cotton-manufactory on the beautiful Clyde, above 
Glasgow; ai d his sons, having had the best education the 



EARLY LABORS AND INSTRUCTIONS. 

Hebrides afforded, were gladly received as clerks by the 
proprietors, Monteith and Co. He himself, highly esteemed 
for his unflinching honesty, was employed in the convey- 
ance of large sums of money from Glasgow to the works, and 
in old age was, according to the custom of that company, 
pensioned off, so as to spend his declining years in ease and 
comfort. 

Our uncles all entered his majesty's service during the 
last French war, cither as soldiers or sailors; but my father 
remained at home, and, though too conscientious ever to 
become rich as a small tea-dealer, by his kindliness ot 
manner and winning ways he made the heart-strings of his 
children twine around him as firmly as if he had possessed, 
and could have bestowed upon them, every worldly advan- 
tage. He reared his children in connection with the Kirk 
of Scotland, — a religious establishment which has been an 
incalculable blessing to that country; but he afterward 
left it, and during the last tw^enty years of his life held the 
office of deacon of an independent church in Hamilton, and 
deserved ray lasting gratitude and homage for presenting 
me, from my infancy, with a continuously consistent pious 
example, such as that the ideal of which is so beautifully 
and truthfully portrayed in Burns's "Cottar's Saturday 
Night.'* He died in February, 1856, in peaceful hope of 
that mercy which we all expect through the death of our 
Lord and Saviour. I was at the time on my way below 
Zumbo, expecting no greater pleasure in this country than 
sitting by our cottage-fire and telling him my travels. I 
revere his memory. 

The earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture 
so often seen among the Scottish poor,- — that of the anxious 
housewife striving to make both ends meet. At the age 
of ten I was put into the factory as a " piercer," to aid by 
my earnings in lessening her anxiety. With a part of my 
first week's wages I purchased Kuddiman's " Rudiments 
of Latin," and pursued the study of that language for 
many years afterward, with unabated ardor, at an evening 



6 RELIGIOUS rMPRESSlOXS. 

B(^hool, which mot between the liours of eight and Icn 
The dictionary part of my labors was followed up till 
twelve o'clock, or later, if my mother did not interfere by 
jumping up and snatching the books out of my hands. ] 
bad to be buck in the factory by six in the morning, and 
continue my work, with intervals for breakfast and dinner, 
till eight o'clock at night. I read in this way many of the 
classical authors, and knew Virgil and Horace better at 
sixteen than I do now. Our schoolmaster — happily 3till 
alive — was supported in part by the company ; he was 
attentive and kind, and so moderate in his charges that all 
who wislicd for education might have obtained it. Many 
availed themselves of the j^rivilege; and some of iny 
schoolfellows no"^v rank in positions far above what they 
appeared ever likely to come to when in the village school. 
If such a system were established in England, it woulc 
prove a never-ending blessing to the poor. 

In reading, everj^ thing that I could lay my hands on 
was devoured except novels. Scientific works and books 
of travels Avere my especial delight; though my father, 
believing, with many of his time who ought to have known 
better, that the former were inimical to religion, would 
fiave preferred to have seen me poring over the '' Cloud of 
Witnesses," or Boston's " Fourfold State." Our ditfcrence 
of opinion reached the point of open rebellion on my part, 
and his last application of the rod was on my refusal t«) 
yeruseWilberforce's "Practical Christianity." This dislike 
to dry doctrinal reading, and to religious reading of evci'y 
sort, continued for years afterward; but having lighted on 
those admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, '^The Philoso- 
phy of Religion" and " The Philosophy of a Future State," 
It was gratifying to find my own ideas, that religion and 
science are not hostile, but friendly to ea:;h other, fully 
proved and enforced. 

Great pains had been taken by my parents to instil the 
doctrines of Christianity into my min«', and I had no diffl- 
cult}- in understanding the theory of our free salvation by 



YOUTHFUL EXCURSIONS. t 

thv atonemeit of our Saviour; but it was only about this 
time that I really began to feel the necessity and value of 
a personal application of the provisions of that atonement 
to my own case. The change was like what may be Kup- 
posed would take place were it possible to cure a case of 
*^ color-blindness." The i:)crfect freeness with which the 
pardon of all our gUilt is offered in God's book drew forth 
feelings of affectionate love to Him who bought us with 
his blood, and a scnso of deep obligation to Him for hie 
mercy has influenced, in some small measure, my conduct 
ever since. But I shall not again refer to the inner spiritual 
life which 1 believe then began, nor do I intend to specify 
with any prominence the evangelistic labors to which the 
love of Christ has since impelled me. This book will 
fipeak, not so much of what has been done, as of what still 
remains to be performed before the gospel can be said to 
be preached to all nations. 

In the glow of love which Christianity inspires, I soon 
resolved to devote my life to the alleviation of human 
misery. Turning this idea over in my mind, I felt that to 
be a pioneer of Christianity in China might lead to the 
material benefit of some portions of that immense empire, 
and therefore set myself to obtain a medical education, in 
order to be qualified for that enterprise. 

In recognising the plants pointed out in my first medical 
book, that extraordinary old work on astrological medicine, 
Culpeper's "Herbal," I had the guidance of a book on the 
plants of Lanarkshire, by Patrick. Limited as my time 
was, I found opportunities to scour the whole country side, 
'^collecting simples." Deep and anxious were my studies 
■)n the still deeper and more perplexing profundities of 
astrology, and 1 believe 1 got as far into that abyss of fan- 
tasies as my author said he dared to lead me. It seemed 
perilous ground to tread on farther, for the dark hint seemed 
to my youthful mind to loom toward "selling soul and body 
to tne devil," as the pnce of tne unfathomable knowledge 
of the stars These excursions, often in company with 



8 STUDY DUEINQ WORKING-HOURS. 

brothers, one now in Canada, and the other a olergyman 
in the United States, gratified my intense love of nature ; 
and though we generally returned so unmercifully hungry 
and fatigued that the embryo parson shed tears, yet we 
discovered, to us, so 'nany new and interesting things, that 
lie was always as ea^jcr to join us next time as he was tho 
last. 

On one of these exploring tours we entered a limestone- 
quarry, — long before geology was so popular as it is now. 
It is impossible to describe the delight and wonder witn 
which I began to collect the shells found in the carboni- 
ferous limestone which crops out in High Blantyre and Cam- 
buslang. A quarry-man, seeing a little boy so engaged, 
looked with that pitying eye which the benevolent assume 
when viewing the insane. Addressing him with, **How 
ever did these shells come into these rocks ?'^ "When God 
made the rocks, he made the shells in them," was the 
damping reply. What a deal of trouble geologists might 
have saved themselves by adopting the Turk-like philo- 
sophy of this Scotchman I 

My reading while at work was carried on by placing the 
book on a portion of the spinning-jenny, so that I could 
catch sentence after sentence as I passed at my work : I 
thus kept up a pretty constant study, undisturbed by tho 
roar of the machinery. To this part of my education I owe 
my present power of completely abstracting the mind from 
surrounding noises, so as to read and write with perfect 
comfort amid the play of children or near the dancing and 
songs of savages. Tho toil of cotton-spinning, to W'hich 
[ was promoted in my nineteenth year, was excessively 
severe on a slim, loose-jointed lad, but it was well paid for; 
and it enabled me to support myself while attending mo- 
dical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the 
divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlaw by working with my 
hands in summer. I never received a farthing of aid from 
any one, and should have accomplished my project of going 
to China as a medical missionary, in the course of time, by 



THE AUTHOK S NATIVE VILLAGE. 9 

my own efforts, had not some friends advised my joining 
the London Missionary Society, on account of its perfectly 
unsecta^rian character. It "sends neither Episcopacy, nor 
Presbyterianism, nor Independency, but the gospel of 
Christ, to the heathen." This exactly agreed with my 
ideas of what a missionary society ought to do ; but it was 
not without a pang that I offered myself, for it was not 
quite agreeable to one accustomed to work his own way 
to become in a measure dependent on others ; and I would 
not have been much put about though my offer had been 
rejected. 

Looking back now on that life of toil, I cannot but fool 
thankful that it formed such a material part of my early 
education; and, were it possible, I should like to begin life 
over again in the same lowly style, and to pass through 
the same hardy training. 

Time and travel have not effaced the feelings of i cspect 
1 imbibed for the humble inhabitants of my native viUage. 
For morality, honesty, and intelligence, they were, in 
general, good specimens of the Scottish poor. In a popu- 
lation of more than two thousand souls, w^c had, of course, 
a variety of character. In addition to the common run 
of men, there were some characters of sterling Avorth and 
ability, who exerted a most beneficial influence on the chil- 
iren and youth of the place by imparting gratuitous reli- 
gious instruction.* Much intelligent interest was felt by the 
villagers in all public questions, and they furnished a proof 
that the possession of the means of education did not render 
them an unsafe portion of the population. They felt kindly 

* The reader will pardon my mentioning the names of two of these 
meet worthy men, — David Hogg, who addressed me on his death -bed with 
the words, "Now, lad, make religion the every-day business of your 
life, and not a thing of fits and starts : for if you do not, temptation and 
other things will get the better ot you ;" and Thomas Burke, an old 
Forty-Second Peninsula soldier, who has been incessant and never weary 
in good works for about forty years. I was delighted to find him still 
alive • men like these are an honor to their conntry and profeaaiou 



10 MEDICAL DIPLOMA. 

toward each other, and much respected those of the neigh- 
boring gentry who, like the late Lord Douglas, placed some 
confidence in their sense of honor. Through the kindness 
of that nobleman, the poorest among us could stroll at 
pleasure over the ancient domains of Both well, and other 
spots hallowed by the venerable associations of which our 
i?chool-books and local traditions made us well aware; and 
few of us could view the dear memorials of the past with- 
out feeling that those carefully-kept monuments Avcre our 
own. The masses of the working-people of Scotland havo 
read history, and arc no revolutionary levellers. They re- 
joice in the memories of " Wallace and Bruce and a' the 
lave," wdio arc still much revered as the form.cr champions 
of freedom. And, while foreigners imagine that wo want 
the spirit only to overturn capitalists and aristocracy, we 
arc content to respect our laws till we can change theta, 
and hate those stupid revolutions which might sweep away 
time-honored institutions, dear alike to rich and poor. 

Having finished the medical curriculum and presented a 
thesis on a subject which required the use of the stetho- 
8Cope for its diagnosis, i unwittingly procured for myself an 
examination rather more severe and prolonged than usual 
among examining bodies. The reason was, that between 
me and the examiners a slight difference of opinion existed 
as to whether this instrument could do what was asserted. 
The wiser plan would have been to have had no opinion of 
my own. However, I was admitted a Licentiate of Faculty 
of Physicians and Surgeons. It was with unfeigned delight 
] became a member of a profession which is pre-eminently 
devoted to practical benevolence, and which with unwearied 
energy p)ursucg from age to age its endeavors to lesson 
hu-niau woo. 

But, though liow qualified for my original plan, the opium 
war was then raging, and it was deemed inexpedient foi 
Qie to proceed to China. I had fondly hoped to have 
gained access to that then closed empire by means of the 
healing art; but thore being no prospect of an early peace 



NO CLAIM TO LITERARY MERIT. 11 

\vitli the Chinese, and as another inviting field was opening 
out through the labors of Mr. Moffat, I was induced to 
turn my thoughts to Africa ; and, after a more extended 
course of theological training in England than I had enjoyed 
in Glasgow, I embarked for Africa in 1840, and, after a voy- 
age of three months, reached Cape Town. Spending but a 
short time there, I started for the interior by g<ung round 
to Algoa Bay, and soon proceeded inland, and have spent the 
following sixteen years of ray life, namely, from 1840 to 1856, 
in medical and missionary labors there without cost to the 
inhabitants. 

As to those literary qualifications which arc acquired by 
habits of Avriting, and which arc so important to an author, 
ray African life has not only not been favorable to the 
groAvth of such accompHshments, but quite the reverse; 
it has made composition irksome and laborious. I think 1 
would rather cross the African continent again than under- 
take to write another book. It is far easier to travel thaii 
to write about it. I intended on going to Africa to con- 
tinue my studies; but as I could not brook the idea of 
simply entering into other men's labors made ready to my 
hands, I entailed on myself, in addition to teaching, ma- 
nual labor in building and other handicraft- work, which 
made mo generally as much exhausted and unfit for study 
in the evenings as ever I had been w^hen a cotton-spinner. 
The want of time for self-improvement was the only source 
of regret that I ox2:)crienccd during my African career. 
The reader, remembering this, will make allowances fo? 
the mere gropings for light of a student who has the vanity 
to think himself ^^not yet too old to learn." More precise 
information on several subjects has necessarily been omitted 
Ir. a popular work like the 2)re8ent ; but I hope to give suob 
details to the scientific reader through some other channel. 



12 THE BAKWAIN COUNTBT 

CHAPTEE I. 

DR. LIVINQSTONE A MISSIONARY IN THE BxiKWAIN COLNTIIY 

Thk general irstructions I received from the Directors 
of the London Missionary Society led rae, as soon as I 
rcfiched Kuruman or Lattakoo, then, as it is now, thoii 
farthest inland station from the Cape, to turn my attention 
to the north. Without waiting longer at Kuruman than 
was necessary to recruit the oxen, which were pretty well 
tired by the long journey from Algoa Bay, I proceeded, in 
company with another missionarj^, to the Bakuena cr 
Bakwain country, and found Sechele, with liis tribe, located 
at Shokuane. We shortly after retraced our steps to Kuru- 
man ; but as the objects in view were by no means to be 
attained by a temporary excursion of this sort, 1 determined 
to make a fresh start into the interior as soon as pjossible. 
Accordingly, after resting three months at Kuruman, which 
is a kind of head-station in the country, I returned to i^ 
spot about fifteen miles south of ShokuanCj called Lepclolo 
fnow Litubaruba.) Here, in order to obtain an accurate 
t?nowledge of the language, I cut myself off from all Eu- 
ropean society for about six months, and gained b}^ this 
ordeal an insight into the habits, ways of thinking, laws, 
and language of that section of the Bechuanas called Bak- 
wains, which has proved of incalculable advantage in my 
Lutcrcourse with them ever since. 

In this second journey to Lepelole — so called from a 
cavern of that name — 1 began preparations for a settle- 
inent, b}' making a canal to irrigate gardens, from a stream 
then flowing copiously, but now quite dry. When these 
preparations were well advanced, I went northward "to 
viF t the Bakaa and Bamangwato, and the Makahika, living 
between 22° and 23° south latitude. The Bakaa Mountains 
bad been visited before by a trader, who, wiih his 2">eople; 
all perished from fever. In going round the northern part 



ArPEAKANCES DIXEITFUL . 13 

of these basaltic hills near Letloche I was only ten days 
distant from the lower part of the Souga, which passed by 
the same name as Lake Ngami ; and I might then (in 
1842) have discovered that lake, had discovery alone been 
my object. Most part of this journey beyond Shokuane 
was performed on foot, in consequence of the draught-oxen 
having become sick. Some of my companions who had 
recently joined us, and did not know that I understood a 
little of their speech, were overheard by me discussing my 
a])pearance and powers : " He is not strong ; he is quite 
slim, and only appears stout because he puts himself into 
those bags, (trowsers :) he will soon knock up.'^ This 
caused my Highland blood to rise, and made me despise the 
fatigue of keeping them all at the top of their speed for 
days together, and until I heard them expressing proper 
opinions of my pedestrian powers. 

Eeturning to Kuruman, in order to bring my luggage 
to our proposed settlement, 1 was followed by the news 
that the tribe of Bakwains, who had shown themselves so 
friendly toward me, had been driven from Lepclolo by the 
Barolongs, so that ray prospects for the time of forming a 
settlement there were at an end. One of those periodical 
outbreaks of Avar, which seem to have occurred from time 
immemorial, for the possession of cattle, had burst forth in 
the land, and had so changed the relations of the tribes to 
each other that ] was obliged to set out anew to look foi 
a suitable locality for a mission-station. 

As some of the Bamangwato people had accompanied me 
fco Kuruman, I was obliged to restore them and their goods 
to (heir chief Sekdmi. This made a journey to the residence 
of that chief again necessary, and, for the first time, I per- 
formed a distance of some hundred miles on ox-back. 

lleturni ng tOAvard Kuruinaj:i, T selected the beautiful 
valley of Mabotsa (lat. 25° 14' south, long. 26° 30'?) as the 
pile of a missionary station, and thither I removed in 1843. 
Hero an occurrence took place concerning which 1 liave 
frequently been questioned in England, and which, but foi 



U RAVAGES OF LIONS. 

tht^ iiupoituiiites of friends, I meant to have kept in store 
M) toll my children when in my dotage. The Eakathi of 
the village Mabotsa were much troubled by lions, which 
leaped into the cattle-pens by night and destroyed their 
cows. They even attacked the herds in open day. This 
was so unusual an occurrence that the people believed that 
they were bewitched, — ''given," as they said, "into the 
povrer of the lions by a neighboring tribe." They went 
once to attack the animals; but, being rather a cowardly 
peop'e compared to Bechuanas in general on such occasions, 
they returned Avithout killing an3^ 

It is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed, 
the others take the hint and leave that part of the country. 
So, the next time the herds were attacked, I went Avith the 
people, in order to encourage them to rid themselves of the 
annoyance by destroying one of the marauders. We found 
the lions on a small hill about a quarter of a mile in length 
and covered with trees. A circle of men was formed round 
it, and they gradually closed up, ascending pretty near to 
each other. Being down below on the plain with a native 
tichoolmaster, named Mcbahve, a most excellent man, I saw 
one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the now 
closed circle of men. Mcbahve fired at him before 1 could, 
and the ball struck the rock on which tbe animal was 
sitting. He bit at the spot struck, as a dog does at a stick 
or stone thrown at him, then, leaping away, broke through 
the opening circle and escaped unhurt. The men were 
afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief Id 
witchcraft. AVhen the circle was reformed, we saw two 
other lions in it; but wo were afraid to fire, lest we should 
strike the men, and they allowed the beasts to burst through 
also. If the Bakatla had acted according to the custom 
uf the country, the}^ would have speared the lions in their 
'attempt to get out. Seeing we could not get them to kill 
DUO of the lions, we bent our footsteps toward the village : 
in going round the end of the hill, however, 1 saw one of 
the beasts sitting on a piece of rock as before, but this time 



A LION-SNCOUNTER. 25 

he had a little bat.h in front. Being about thirty j-ards off, 
I took a good aim at his body through the bush, and fired 
both barrels into it. The men then called out, '"He is shotl 
ho is shot!'' Others cried, "He has been shot by another 
man too ; let us go to him I" I did not see any one else 
bhoot at him, but I saw the lion's tail erected in anj^er be- 
hind the bush, and, turning to the people, said, 'SStop a 
little, till I load again.'* When in the act of ramming 
down the bvillets, 1 heard a shout. Starting, and looking 
half round, I saw the lion just in the act of springing upon 
me. I was upon a little height; he caught my shoulder as 
he sprang, and we both came to the ground below together. 
Growling horribl}^ close to my ear, he shook me as a terrier 
dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to 
that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shako 
of the cat. It caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there 
was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror, though quite 
conscious of all that was happening. ~ It was like what 
patients partially under the infiuence of chloroform de- 
scribe, who see all the opci-ation, but feel not the knife. 
This singular condition was not the result of any mental 
process. The shake annihilated fear, an J allowed no sense 
of horror in looking round at the beast. This peculiar 
state is probably produced in all animals killed by the car- 
nivora, and, if so, is a merciful pr-ovision by our benevolent 
Creator for lessening the pain of death. Turning round 
to relieve myself of the weight, as he had one paw on the 
back of my head, I saw his eyes directed to Mebalwe, who 
was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten or fifteen 
yards. His gun, a flint one, missed fire in both barrels; 
tho lion immediately lell me, and, attacking Mebalwo, bit 
his thigh. Another man, whose life 1 had saved oofore, 
after he had been tossed by a Ijufi'aio, attempted to speur 
ihe lion while ho was bitirjg Mebalwe. lie lei't IMebalwe 
and caught this man by the shoulder, but at that moment 
tho bullets he had received ♦ook elt'ect, and he fell down 
dead. The whole was ttie woiU ut a few moments, and 



16 SECHELE. 

inubt have been his paroxysms of dying rage In order to 
take out the charm from him, IheBakatla on the foilowing 
Jay made a huge bonfire over the carcass, which was de- 
clared to be that of the largest lion they had ever seen. 
Besides crunching the bone into splinters, he left eleven 
teeth-wounds on the upper part of my arm. 

A wound from this animal's tooth resembles a gun-shot 
wound ; it is generally followed by a great deal of slough 
mg and discharge, and pains are felt in the part pcriodicalij 
ever afterward. I had on a tartan jacket on the occasion, 
and 1 believe that it wiped off all the virus from the teeth 
that pierced the flesh, for my two companions in this affray 
have both suffered from the peculiar pains, while 1 have 
escaped with onl}^ the inconvenience of a false joint in my 
limb. The man whose shoulder was wounded showed me 
his wound actually burst forth afresh oa. the same month 
of the following year. This curious point deserves the 
attention of inquirers. 

I attached myself to the tribe called Bakuena or Bak- 
wains, the chief of which, named Sechele, was then living 
with his people at a place called Shokuane. I was from 
the first struck by his intelligence, and by the marked 
manner in which we both felt drawn to each other. This 
remarkable man has not only embraced Christianity, but 
expounds its doctrines to his people. 

Sechele continued to make a consistent profession for 
about three years ; and, perceiving at last some of the 
difficuUies of his case, and also feeling compassion for ths 
poor wumen, who were hy far the best of our scholars, I had 
no desire that he should bo in any hurry to make a full 
profession by bap'Jsm and putting away all his wives bnt 
one. His principal wife, too, was about the most unlikely 
subject in the tribe ever to become any thing else than an 
out-and-out greasy disciple of the old school. She has 
Bineo become greatly altered, I hear, for the better; but 
again .and again have I seen Sechele .'^cnd her out of cliurcb 
to put her gown on, and away she would go with her lipa 



BAPTISM or SEOHELE. 17 

sLot out, the very picture of unutterable disgust at his 
oew-fangled notions. 

When he at last applied for baptism, I simply asked him 
how he, having the Bible in his hand, and able to read it, 
thought he ought to act. He went home, gave each of his 
superfluous wives new clothing, and all his own goods, 
which they had been accustomed to keep in their huts 
for him, and sent them to their parents with an inti- 
mation that he had no fault to find with them, but that in 
parting with them he wished to follow the will of God. 
On the day on which he and his children were baptized, 
great numbers came to see the ceremony. Some thought, 
from a stupid calumny circulated by enemies to Chris- 
tianity in the south, that the converts would bo made to 
drink an infusion of ''dead men's brains," and were asto- 
nished to find that water only was used at baptism. Seeing 
several of the old men actually in tears during the service, 
I asked them afterward the cause of their weeping ; they 
were crying to see their father, as the Scotch remark over 
a case of suicide, " so far left to himself." They seemed to 
think that I had thrown the glamour over him, and that 
he had become mine. Here commenced an opposition 
which we had not previously experienced. All the friends 
of the divorced wives became the opponents of our re- 
ligion. The attendance at school and church diminished 
to very few besides the chief's own family. They all 
treated us still with respectful kindness but to Sechele 
himself they said things which, as he often remarked, had 
they ventured on in former times, would have cost thoro 
(heir lives. It ^\as trying, after all wo had done, to s@e 
f>ur labors so little appreciated; but we had sown the 
^ood seed, and have no doubt but it will yet spring up, 
Uiough we may not live to see the fruits. 

Leaving this sketch of the chief, I proceed to give an 
equally rapid one of our dealing with his people, the Ba- 
fcena, or Bakwains. A small piece of land, sufficient for a 
garden, was purchased when we first went to live with 



18 UELATIONS WITH THE PEOPLE. 

thjem, tlioufijh that was scarcely necessary in a eouiitry 
Nvliere the idea of buying land was quite new. It was ex- 
pected that a request for a suitable spot would have beeo 
made, and that we should have proceeded to occupy it as 
any other member of the tribe Avould. But we cxjlained 
to them that we wished to avoid any cause of future 
dispute when land had become more valuable; or when a 
foolish chief began to reign^ and wc had erected large or 
expensive buildings, he might wish to claim the whole. 
These reasons were considered satisfactory. About Jt!5 
Worth of goods were given for a piece of land, and an ar- 
rangement was come to that a similar piece should be 
allotted to any other missionary, at any other place to 
which the tribe might remove. The particular of the 
sale sounded strangely in the ears of the tribe, but v.ere 
nevertheless readily agreed to. 

In our relations with this people we were simply 
strangers, exercising no authority or control whatever. 
Our influence depended entirely on persuasion ; and, having 
taught them by kind conversation as well as by public 
instruction, I expected them to do what their own sense 
of right and wrong dictated. We never wished them to 
do right merely because it would be pleasing to us, noi 
thought ourselves to blame when they did wrong, although 
we were quite aware of the absurd idea to that effect 
We saw that our teaching did good to the general mind 
of the people by bringing new and better motives into 
play. Five instances are positively known to mo in 
which, by our influence on public opinion, v;ar was pre- 
vented ) and where, in individual cases, we failed, the peo* 
pie did no worse than they did before we came into the 
country. In general they were slow, like all the African 
people hereafter to be described, in coming to a decision 
on religious subjects; but in questions affecting theii 
worldly aftairs they were keenly alive to their own inte- 
rests. They might be called stupid in matters which had 
not come withic the sphere of their observation, but in 

3 



I 

o 







THE HOPO. 21 

Otlier things they showed more intelligence than is to be 
met with in our own uneducated peasantry. They are 
remarkably accurate in their knowledge of cattle, sheep, 
and goats, knowing exactly the kind of pasturage suited 
to each; and they select with great judgment the varieties 
of soil best suited to different kinds of grain. They are 
filso familiar with the habits of wild animals, and in 
general are well up in the maxims which embody their 
ideas of j^olitical wisdom. 

The place where we first settled with the Bakwains is 
called Chonuanc, and it happened to be visited, during the 
first year of our residence there, by one of those droughts 
which occur from time to time in even the most favored 
districts of Africa. 

The conduct of the people during this long-continued 
drought was remarkably good. The women parted with 
most of their ornaments to purchase corn from more for- 
tunate tribes. The children scoured the country in search 
of the numerous bulbs and roots which can sustain life, 
and the men engaged in hunting. Yery great numbers of 
the large game, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, tsessebes, kamas 
or hartebeests, kokongs or gnus, pallahs, rhinoceroses, &c.. 
congregated at some fountains near Kolobeng, and the trap 
called ^^hopo'^ was constructed, in the lands adjacent, for 
their destruction. The hopo consists of two hedges in the 
form of the letter Y, which are very high and thick near 
the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined there, they 
are made to form a lane of about fifty yards in length, at 
the extremity of which a pit is formed, six or eight feet 
deep, and about twelve or fifteen in breadth and length. 
Trunks of trees are laid across the margin of the pit, and 
more especially over that nearest the lane where the ani- 
mals are expected to leap in, and over that farthest from 
the lane where it is supposed they will attempt to escape 
after they are in. The trees form an overlapping border 
and render escape almost impossible. The whole is care- 
ftiliy decked with shoii; green rushes making the pit I'ke 



22 THE BOERS 

a concealed pittall. As the hedges are freqaeiitly abaat a 
mile long, and about as much apart at their extremities, a 
tribe making a circle three or four miles round the country 
adjacent to the opening, and graduaUy ciosting np, are 
almost sure to enclose a large body of game. Driving it up 
with shouts to the narrow part of the hopo, men secreted 
there throw their javelins into the aiirighted herds, and on 
the animals rush to the opening proeentcd at the con- 
verging hedges, and into the pit, till that is full of a living 
mass. Some escape by running ever the others, as a 
Smithfif^la market-dog does over the sheep's backs. It is a 
frightful scene. The men, wild with excitement, spear the 
lovely animals with mad delight; others of the poor crea- 
tures, borne down by the weight of their dead and dying 
companions, every now and then make the whole mas»? 
heave in their smothering agonies. 

The Bakwains often killed between sixty and seventy 
head of large game at the different hopos m a single week; 
and as every one, both rich and pc-or, partook of the prey, 
the meat counteracted the bad effects of an exclusively 
Tegeb^ble diet. 



CHAPTER II. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE PREPARES TO GO TO LAKE NGAMl. 

Another adverse infiuenee with which the mission 
had to contei d was the vicinity of tbe Boers of the 
Cashan Mountains, otherwise named ^'Magaliesbcrg.'^ 
These are not to be confounded with the Cape colonists, 
who sometimes pass by the name. The word Boer simply 
means "farmer,'* and is not synonj^mous with our word 
boor. Indeed, to the Boers generallj^ the latter term 
would be quite inappropriate, for they are a sober, indus- 
trious, and most hospitable body of peasantry. Those, how- 



TREATME^T OF NATIVES BY BOERS 25 

ever who have fled from English law on various pretexts, 
and Lave been joined by English deserters and every other 
variety of bad character in their distant localities, are 
unfortunately of a very different stamp. The great ob- 
jection many of the Boers had, and still have, to English 
law, is that it makes no distinction between black men 
and white. They felt aggrieved by their supposed losses 
in the emancipation of their Hottentot slaves, and deter 
mined to erect themselves into a republic, in which they 
might pursue, without molestation, the '^ prosier treatment 
of the blacks.'' It is almost needless to add that the 
'^proper treatment" has always contained in it the essen- 
tial element of slavery, namely, compulsory unpaid labor. 

One section of this body, under the late Mr. Hendrick 
Potgeiter, penetrated the interior as far as the Cashan 
Mountains, whence a Zulu or Caffre chief, named Mosili- 
katze, had been expelled by the well-known Caffre Din- 
gaanj* and a glad welcome was given them by tlie Be- 
chuana tribes, who had just escaped the hard sway of that 
cruel chieftain. They came with the prestige of white 
men and deliverers; but the Bechuanas soon found, aa 
they expressed it, "that Mosilikatze was cruel to his 
enemies, and kind to those he conquered; but that the 
Boers destroyed their enemies, and made slaves of their 
friends.'' The tribes who still retain the semblance of 
independence are forced to perform all the labor of the 
fields, such as manuring the land, weeding, reapmi^, building, 

* Dingaan was the brother and successor of Chaka, the most cruel and 
bloodthirsty tyrant that ever disgraced the soil of Africa. He had formed 
his tribe into a military organization and ravaged all the neighboring 
tribes; but his horrible cruelties to his own subjects led to a revolt, 
headed by Dingaan and XJmslungani, his two elder brothers, who first 
attacked him with spears, wounding him in the back. Chaka was en- 
veloped in a blanket, which he cast off and fled. He was overtaken and 
again wounded. Falling at the feet of his pursuers, he besought them in 
the most abject terms to let him live, that he might be their slave ; but he 

w^as instantly speared to death. — Am. Ed 

3» 



26 THE BOERS MAKE WAR ON THE BAKWAINS. 

making dams and canals, and at the same time to suppon 
themselves. I have myself been an eye-witness of Boers 
coming to a village, and, according to their usual custom, 
demanding twenty or thirty women to weed their gardens, 
and have seen these women proceed to the scene of unro^ 
quited toil, carrying their own food on their heads, thoii 
children on their backs, and instruments of labor on their 
shoulders. Nor have the Boers any wish to conceal tho 
meanness of thus employing unpaid labor: on the contrary, 
every one of them, from Mr. Potgciter and Mr. Gert 
Krieger, the commandants, downward, lauded his own 
humanity and justice in making such an equitable regula- 
tion. '■'■ We make the peoj^le work for us, in consl loratioa 
of allowing them to live in our country." 

The Boers determined to' put a stop to English traders 
going past Kolobeng, by dispersing the tribe of Bakwains 
and expelling all the missionaries. Sir George Cathcart 
proclaimed the independence of the Boers, the best thing 
that could have been done had they been between us and 
the Caffrcs. A treaty was entered into with these Boers; 
an article for the free passage of Englishmen to the coun- 
try beyond, and also another, that no slavery should be 
allowed in the indej)endent territory, were duly inserted, 
as expressive of the views of her majesty's government at 
home. ^^ But what about the missionaries ?" inquired the 
Boers. '■'■ 'You may do as you please with them" is said to 
have been the answer of the ^' Commissioner." Tliis re- 
mark, if uttered at all, was probably made in joke ; design- 
ing men, however, circulated it, and caused the general 
belief in its accuracy which now prevails all over the coun- 
try, and doubtless led to the destruction of three mission, 
stations immediately after. The Boers, four hundred in 
nimbcr, were sent by the late Mr. Pretorius to attack the 
Bakwains in 1852. Boasting that the English had given 
up all the blacks into their power, and had agreed to aid 
them in their subjugation by preventing all supplies of 
ammunition from coming into the Bechuara countiy, they 



HOSTILITY OF THE BOERS. 27 

assaulted the Bakwains, and, beaidcs killing a considorablo 
nnmbcr of adults, carried off two hundred of our school- 
children into slavery. The natives under Seciielc defended 
themselves till the approach of night enabled theia to flco 
to the mountains; and having in that defence killed a 
number of the enemy, the very first ever slain in this coun- 
try by Bechuanas, I received the credit of having taught 
the tribe to kill Boers! My house, which had stood jyav* 
fectly secure for years under the protection of the natives, 
was plundered in revenge. English gentlemen, who had 
come in the footsteps of Mr. Gumming to hunt in the coun- 
try beyond, and had deposited largo quantities of stores in 
the same keeping, and upward of eighty head of cattle as 
relays for the return journeys, were robbed of all, and, 
when they came back to Kolobeng, found the skeletons of 
the guardians strewed all over the place. The books of a 
good library — my solace in our solitude — were not taken 
away, but handfuls of the leaves were torn out and scat- 
tered over the place. My stock of medicines was smashed, 
and all our furniture and clothing carried off and sold at 
public auction to pay the expenses of the foray. 

In trying to benefit the tribes living under the Boca's of 
the Cashan Mountains, I twice performed a journey of about 
three hundred miles to the eastward of Kolobeng. Sechelo 
had become so obnoxious to the Boers that, though anxious 
to accompany me in my journey, he dared not trust him- 
self among them. This did not arise from the crime of 
cattle-stealing; for that crime, so common among the 
Caffies, was never charged against his tribe, nor, indeed, 
Qgainst anyBechuana tribe. It is, in fact, unknown in tho 
country, except during actual warfare. His independoneo 
■And love of the English were liis only faults. In my last 
]0urney there, of about two hundred miles, on i:>arting at 
the river Marikwe he gave me two servants, " to bo," aa 
lio said, '^ his arms to serve me," and expressed regret that 
he could not come himself '^Suppose we went' north," J 
said; ^' would you come?" lie then told me the story of 



28 PREPARING TO CROSS THE DESERT. 

Sebituane having saved his life, and expatiated on the far- 
famed generosity of that really great man. This was the 
first time I had thought of crossing the Desert to Lake 
Ngami. 

The conduct of the Boers, who had sent a letter designed 
to procure my removal out of the country, and their well- 
known settled policy which I have already described, be- 
came more fully developed on this tlian on any former 
occasion. When I spoke to Mr. Hcndrick Potgeiter of the 
danger of hindering the gospel of Christ among these poor 
savages, he became greatly excited, and called one of his 
followers to answer me. He threatened to attack any tribe 
that might receive a native teacher ; yet he promised to use 
his influence to prevent those under him from throwing 
obstacles in our way. I could perceive plainly that nothing 
more could be done in that direction, so I commenced col- 
lecting all the inf(5rmation I could about the desert, with 
the intention of crossing it, if possible. Sekomi, the chief 
of the Bamangwato, was acquainted with a route which 
he kept carefully to himself, because the Lake country 
abounded in ivory, and he drew large quantities thence 
periodically at but small cost to himself. 

Sechele, who valued highly every thing European, and 
was always fully alive to his own interest, was naturally 
anxious to get a share of that inviting field. He was most 
anxious to visit Sebituane too, partly, perhaps, from a wish 
to show oif his new acquirements, but chiefly, I believe, 
from having very exalted ideas of the benefits h-o would 
derive from the liberality of that renowned chieftain. 

Sechele, by my advice, sent men to Sekomi, asking leave 
for me to pass along his path, accompanying the request 
•with the present of an ox. Sckomi's mother, who possesses 
great influen-ce over him, refused permission, because she 
had not been propitiated This produced a fresh message; 
and the most honorable man in the Bakwain tribe, next 
to Sechole, was sent with an ox for both Sekomi and hia 
mother. This, too. was met by refusal. It was said, 



PRErARINQ TO CROSS THE DESERT. §9 

** The Matebele, the mortal enemies of the Bo^huaaas, arc 
In the direction of the lake, and, should they kill the whit« 
man, we shall incur great blame from all his nation/' 

The exact position of the Lake Ngami had, for half a 
century at least, been correctly pointed oat by the natives; 
who had visited it when rains were more copious in the 
Desert than in more recent times, and many attempts had 
!)een made to reach it by passing through the Desert in the 
direction indicated; but it was found impossible, even foi 
Griquas, who, having some Bushman blood in them, may 
be supposed more capable of enduring thirst than Euro- 
peans. It was clear, then, that our only chance of suc- 
cess was by going round, instead of through, the Desert. 
The best time for the attempt would have been about the 
end of the rainy season, in March or April, for then wa 
should have been likely to meet with pools of rain-water, 
which always dry up during the rainless winter. I com- 
municated my intention to an African traveller. Colonel 
Steele, then aide-de-camp to the Marquis of Tweedale at 
Madras, and he made it known to two other gentlemen, 
whose friendship we had gained during their African travel, 
namely. Major Yardon and Mr. Oswell. All of these gentle- 
men were so enamored with African hunting and African 
discovery that the two former must have envied the latter 
his good fortune in being able to leave India to undertake 
afresh the plei:«ures and pains of desert life. I believe ^-Ir. 
Oswell came from his high position at a very considerable 
pecuniary sacrifice, and with no other end in view but to 
extend the boundaries of geographical knowledge. Before 
I knew of his coming, 1 had arranged . that the payment 
of the guides furnished by Sechcle should be the loan of 
my wagon to bring back whatever ivory he might obtain 
from the chief at the lake. When, at last, Mr. Oswell 
came, bringing Mr. Murray with him, he undertook to 
defray the entire expense of the guides, and fully executed 
bis generous intention, 

Sechele himself would have come with us, but, fearin^^ 




30 DEPARTURE FROM K0L0BEN3. 

that the much-talked-of assault of the Boers might take 
place during our absence, and blame be attached to me foi 
taking him away, 1 dissuaded hira against it by saying that 
ho knew Mr. Oswell "would be as determined as himtol/ 
to gel through the Desert." 



CHAPTEK III. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE DISCOVERS LAKE NGAMI. 

Just before the arrival of my companions, a party of the 
people of the lake came to Kolobcng, stating that they 
were sent by Lechulatcbe, the chief, to ask me to visit 
that country. They brought such flaming accounts of the 
quantities of ivory to be found there, (cattle-pens made of 
elephants' tusks of enormous size, &c.,) that the guides of 
the Bakwains were quite as eager to succeed in reaching 
the lake as any one of us could desire. This was fortunate, 
as we knew the way the strangers had come was impass- 
able for wa irons. 

Messrs. OswcU and Murray came at the end of May, and 
we all made a fair start for the unknown region on the Ist 
of June, 1849. Proceeding northward, and passing through 
a range of tree-covered hills to Shokuane. formerly the re- 
sidence of the Bakwains, we soon after entered on the high 
road to the Bamangwato, which lies generally in the bed 
of an ancient river or wady that must formerly have flowed 
N". to S. 

Boatlanama, our next station, is a lovely spot in the 
otherwise dry region. The wells from which we nad to 
lift out the Avater for our cattle are deep, but they were 
vrell filled. A few villages of Bakalahari were found near 
them, and great numbers of pallahs, springbucks, Guinea 
fowl, and small monkeys. 

Lopepe came next. This place aflforded another proo/ 









^ 







i 



MESSAGE FROM SEKOMl 33 

Df 1*6 (lesicciition of the collntr3^ The first time I passed 
it, Lopcpe was a large pool with a stream flowing out of it 
tc the south ; now it was with difficulty we could get our 
cattle watered by digging down in the bottom of a well. 

At Mash lie — where we found a never-failing supply cf 
pure water in a sandstone rocky hollow — we left the road 
to the Bamangwato Hilis, and struck away to the north 
into the Desert. Having watered the cattle at a well called 
Lobotani, about ^N". W. of Bamangwato^ we next proceeded 
to a real Kalahari fountain, called Serotli. 

In the evening of our second day at Serotli, a hyena 
appearing suddenly among the grass, succeeded in raising 
a panic among our cattle. This false mode of attack is 
the plan which this cowardly animal always adopts. His 
courage resembles closely that of a turkey-cock. He will 
bite if an animal is running away ; but if the animal stand 
still, so does he. Seventeen of our draught-oxen ran away, 
and in their flight went right into the hands of Sekomi, 
whom, from his being unfriendly to our success, we had no 
particular wish to see. Cattle-stealing, such as in the cir- 
cumstances might have occurred in Caffraria, is here un- 
known; so Sekomi sent back our oxen, and a message 
strongly dissuading us against attempting the Desert. 
'MYhere are you going? You will be killed by the p.un 
and thirst, and then all the v^diite m.en will blame me for 
not saving you." This was backed b}^ a private message 
from his mother. '^ Why do you pass me ? I always n>ad6 
the people collect to hear the word that you have got. 
What guilt have I, that you pass without looking at me?" 
We replied by assuring the messengers that the white men 
would attribute our deaths to our own stupidity and ''hard- 
headcdness,'' (tlogo, e thata,) ''as we did not intend to 
allow our companions and guides to return till they Iiad 
put us into our graves." We sent a handsome present to 
Sekomi, and a promise that, if he allowed the Bakalahari 
to keep the wells open for us, wo wouM repeat tlie gift on 
our return. 



34 DISCO-N'ERY OP WATER. 

After exhausting all his eloquence in fruitless attemptfi 
to persuade us to return, the under-chief^ who headed the 
party of Sekomi's messengers, inquired, ''Who is taking 
them?'^ Looking round, he exclaimed, with a face ex- 
pressive of the most unfeigned disgust, "It is Earaot<3bi !" 
Our guide belonged to Sekomi's tribe^ but had fled to 
Scchele; as fugitives in this country are always well re- 
ceived, and may even afterward visit the tribe from which 
they had escaped, Eamotobi was in no danger, though doing 
that which he knew to be directly opposed to the interests 
of his own chief and tribe. 

For sixty or seventy miles beyond Serotli, one clump of 
bushes and trees seemed exactly like another; but, as W6 
walked together this morning, Eamotobi remarked, ''When 
we come to that hollow we shall light upon the highway- 
of Sekomi ; and beyond that again lies the river Mokoko;" 
which, though we passed along it, I could not perceive to 
be a riv^r-bed at all. 

After breakfast, some of the men, who had gone forward 
on a little path with some footprints of water-loving 
animals upon it, returned with the joyful tidings of 
^'metse,'' water, exhibiting the mud on they:* knees in con- 
firmation of the news being true. It does one's heart good 
to see the thirsty oxen rush into a pool of delicious rain- 
water, as this was. In they dash until the water is deep 
enough to be nearly level with their throat, and then they 
stand drawing slowly in the long, refreshing mouthfuls 
until their formerly collapsed sides distend as if they would 
burst. So much do they imbibe, that a sudden jerk, when 
they come out on the bank, makes some of the water run 
out again from their mouths; but, as they have been days 
without food too, they very soon commence to graze, and 
of grass there is always abundance everywhere. Thia 
pool was called Mathuluana; and thankful we were to have 
cbtained so welcome a supply of water. 

After giving the cattle a rest at this spot, we proceeded 
down the dry bed of the river Mokoko. 



SALT-PANS 33 

At Nchokotsa we came upon the first of a great nnmbei 
of sait-pans, covered with an efflorescence of lime, probably 
the nitrate. A thick belt of mopane-trees (a BauMnid) 
hides this salt-pan, which is twenty miles in circumference, 
entirely from the view of a person coming from the south- 
east; and, at the time the pan burst upon our view, the 
setting sun was casting a beautiful blue haze over the white 
incrustations, making the whole look exactly like a lake. 
Oswell threw his hat up in the air at the sight, and shouted 
out a huzza which made the poor Bushwoman and the 
Bakwains think him mad. I was a little behind him, and 
was as completely deceived by it as he; but, as we had 
agreed to allow each other to behold the lake at the same 
instant, I felt a little chagrined that he had, unintentionally, 
got the first glance. We had no idea that the long-looked- 
for lake was still more than three hundred miles distant. 
One reason of our mistake was that the river Zouga was 
often spoken of by the same name as the lake, — viz. : Noka 
ea Batletli, (^^Eiver of the Batletli.'') 

On the 4th of July we went forward on horseback toward 
what we supposed to be the lake, and again and again did 
we seem to see it; but at last we came to the veritable 
water of the Zouga, and found it to be a river running to 
the ]^.E. A village of Bakurutse lay on the opposite bank: 
these live among Batletli, a tribe having a click in their 
iunguage, and who were found by Sebituane to possess large 
herds of the great horned cattle. They seem allied to the 
Hottentot family. Mr. Oswell, in trying to cross the river, 
got his horse bogged in the swampy bank. Two Bakwains 
and I managed to get over by wading beside a fishing-weir. 
The people were friendly, and informed us that this water 
came out of Ngami. This news gladdened all our hearts, 
for we now felt certain of reaching our goal. We might, 
they said, be a moon on the way : but we had the river 
Zouga at our feet, and by following it we should at last 
reach the broad water. 

Next day, when we were quite disposed to bo friendly 



36 THE ZOUGA. 

with every one, two of the Bainangwato, who had been 
sent on before ns by Sekomi to drive away all the Bushraeii 
and Bakalahari from our path, so that they should not 
assist or guide us, came and sat down by our fire. Wo bad 
seen their footsteps fresh in the way, and they had watched 
our slow movements forward, and wondered to see how we, 
without any Bushmen, found our way to the waters. This 
was the first time they had seen Earaotobi. ^'You have 
reached the river now," said they; and we, quite disposed 
to laugh at having won the game, felt no ill-will to any one. 
They seemed to feel no enmity to us, either; but, after an 
apparently friendly conversation, proceeded to fulfil to the 
last the instructions of their chief Ascending the Zouga 
in our front, they circulated the rej)ort that our object was 
to plunder all the tribes living on the river and lake; but 
when they had got half-way up the river, the principal man 
sickened of fever, turned back some distance, and died. 
His death had a good effect, for the villagers connected it 
with the injury he was attempting to do us. They all saw 
through Sekomi's reasons for wishing us to fail in our at- 
tempt; and, though they came to us at first armed, kind 
and fair treatment soon produced perfect confidence. 

When we had gone up the bar.k of this beautiful ri\'er 
about ninety-six miles from the point where we first struck 
it, and understood that we were still a considerable distance 
from the l^gami, we left all the oxen and wagons, except 
&Ir. Oswell's, which was the smallest, and one team, at 
Ngabisane, in the hope that they would be recruited for the 
home journey, while we made a push for the lake. The 
Bechuana chief of the Lake re^'ion, who had sent men to 
Hechelo, now sent orders to all the people on the river to 
assist us, and we were received by the Bakoba, whose lan« 
guagc clearly shows that they bear an afiinity to the tribes in 
the north. They call themselves Bayeiye, i.e. men; but the 
Bechuanas call them Bakoba, which contains somewhat of 
the idea of slaves. They have never been known to fight, 
and, indeed; have a tradition that their forefathers; in theii 



b 



<3 



^ 



Si 






Co 

O 






a. 







DISCOVERY OF LAKE NO AMI. 39 

first essays at war, made their bows of the Palina Christi, 
ai/d, when these broke, they gave up fighting altogether 
Tl.ey have invariably submitted to the rule of every horde 
which has overrun the countries adjacent to the rivei's on 
which they specially love to dwell. They are thus the 
Quakers of the body politic in Africa. 

Twelve days after our departure from the wagons a I 
Ngabisane we came to the northeast end of Lake Ngami; 
and on the 1st of August, 1849, we went down together to 
the broad part, and, for the first time, this fine-looking 
sheet of water was beheld by Europeans. The direction 
of the lake seemed to be N.N.E. and S.S.W. by compass. 
The southern portion is said to bend round to the west, and 
to receive the Teoughe from the north at its northwest 
extremity. We could detect no horizon where we stood 
looking S.S.W., nor could we form any idea of the extent 
of the lake, except from the reports of the inhabitants ot 
the district; and, as they professed to go round it in three 
days, aUowing twenty-five miles a day would make it 
seventy-five, or less than seventy geographical miles in cir- 
eumferenqp. Other guesses have been made since as to its 
circumference, ranging between seventy and one hundred 
miles. It is shallow, for I subsequently saw a native punt- 
ing his canoe over seven or eight miles of the northeast 
end; it can never, therefore, be of much value as a com- 
mercial highway. In fact, during the months preceding 
the amiual supply of water from the north, the lake is so 
shallow that it is with difficulty cattle can approach the 
water through the boggy, reedj^ banks. These are low on 
all sides, but on the west there is a space devoid of trees, 
showing that the waters have retired thence at no very 
ancient date. This is another of the proofs of desiccation 
tiijCt with so abundantly throughout the whole country. A 
number of dead trees lie on this space, some of them em- 
bedded in the mud, right in the water. We were informed 
by the Bayeiye, who live on the lake, that when the annual 
inundation begin? not only trees of great size, but ante 



40 THE NGAMI. 

lopes, as the springbuck and tsessebc, (Acronotus lunata,) are 
ewcpt down by its rushing waters ; the trees arc gradually 
dnven by the winds to the opposite side, and become em 
bedded in the mud. 

The water of the lake is perfectly fresh when full, but 
brackish when low; and that coming down the Tamunak'le 
we found to be so clear, cold, and soft, the higher we 
ascended, that tlie idea of melting snow was suggested to 
our minds. TTe found this region, vrith regard to that from 
^\hich we had come, to be clearly a hollow, the lowest 
point being Lake Kumadau; the point of the ebullition of 
water, as shown by one of Newman's barometric thermome- 
ters, was only between 2074° and 206°, giving an elevation 
of not much more than two tliousand feet above the level of 
the sea. We had descended above two thousand feet in 
coming to it from Kolobeng. It is the southern and lowest 
part of the great river-system beyond, in v\^hich large tracts 
of country are inundated annually by tropical rains. 

My chief object in coming to the lake was to visit Sebi- 
tuane, the great chief of the Makololo, who was reported 
to live some two hundred miles beyond. V^lei had now 
come to a half-tribe of the Bamangwato, called Batauana. 
Their chief was a young man named Lechulatebe. Sebi- 
tuane had conquered his father Moremi, and Lechulatebe 
received part of his education while a captive among the 
Bayeiye. His uncle, a sensible man, ransomed him, and, 
liaving collected a number of families together, abdicated 
tlie chieftainship in favor of his nephew. As Lechulatebe 
had just come into power, he imagined that the proper 
way of showing his abilities was to act directly contrary 
to every thing that his uncle advised. When we came, the 
uncle recommended him to treat us handsomely : therefore 
the hopeful youth presented us with a goat only. It ought 
lo have been an ox. So I proposed to my companions to 
loose the animal and let him go, as a hint to his master. 
Tl)cy, however, did not wish to insult him. I, being more 
of a native^ and familiar with their customs, knew that 



THE BAMANGWATO AND THEIR CHIEF. 41 

this shabby present was an insult to us. Wc wished to 
purchase some goats or oxen; Lechulatcbe offered us eio 
phants' tusks. "No, avc cannot eat these; we Avant somo- 
thing to fill our stomachs.'" "iSTeither can I; bat I hear 
you. white men are all ver}^ fond of these bones; so I offei 
them: I want to put the goats into my own stomach." A 
trader^ who accompanied us, was then purchasing ivory 
at tiiG rate of ten good large tusks for a musket worth 
thirteen shillings. They were called "bones;'' and 1 
mj'sclf saw eight instances in which the tnsks had been 
left to rot with the other bones where the elej^hant fell. The 
Batauana never had a chance of a market before; but, in 
less than two years after our discovery, not a man of them 
could be found who was not keenly alive to the great value 
of the article. 

On the day after our arrival at the lake, I applied to 
Lechulatcbe for guides to Sebituane. As ho was much 
ifraid of that cliief, ho objected, fearing lest other v/hite 
men should go thither also, and give ^Sebituane guns; 
whereas, if the traders came to him alone, the possession 
of fire-arms would give him such a superiority that Sebi- 
tuane would bo afraid of him. It was in vain to explain 
that I would inculcate peace between them, — that Sebi- 
tuane had been a father to him and Sechele, and was as 
a-nxious to see mo as he, Lechulatcbe, had been. lie 
offered to give me as much ivory as 1 needed without 
going to that chief; but, when I refused to take any, he 
unwillingly consented to give me guides. Next day, how- 
ever, when Oswell and I were prepared to start, with tho 
horses only, wc received a senseless refusal; and like So- 
komi, Avho had thrown obstacles in our way, he sent men 
to the Bayeiye with orders to refuse us a passage across 
tho river. Trying hard to form a raft at a narrow part, 1 
worked many hours in the water; but the dry wood waa 
so worm-eaten it would not bear the weight of a single 
person. I was not then aware of the number of alligators 
which exist in tho Zouga, and never think of mj lj;bor io 



42 bTART FOB THE COUNIRY OF SEBITUANE 

the water without feeling thankful that I escaped theii 
jaws. The season was now far advanced; and as Mr. Oft- 
well, with his wonted generous feelings, volunteered, on 
the spot, to go down to the Cape and bring up a boat, we 
resolved to make our way south again. 



CHAPTEE ly. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE PERFORMS TWO JOURNEYS IN THE INTERIOB 
AND DISCOVERS THE RIVER ZAMBESI — HE SENDS HIS 
FAMILY TO ENGLAND. 

Having returned to Kolobeng, I remained there till 
April, 1850, and then left in company with Mrs. Living- 
stone, our three children, and the chief Sechele, — who had 
now bought a wagon of his own, — in order to go across the 
Zouga at its lower end, with the intention of proceeding 
up the northern bank till we gained the Tamunak'le, and 
of then ascending that river to visit Sebituane in the north. 
Sekomi had given orders to fill up the wells which we had 
dug with much labor at Serotli; so we took the more 
eastern route through the Bamangwato town and by 
Letloche. That chief asked why I had avoided him in our 
former journeys. I replied that my reason was that 1 
knew he did not wish me to go to the lake, and I did not 
want to quarrel with him. ^^Well,'* he said, "you beat 
me then, and I am content." 

Parting with Sechele at the ford, as he was eager to 
visit Lechulatebe, we went along the northern woody 
bank of the Zouga with great labor, having to cut down 
very many trees to allow the wagons to pass. Our losses 
by oxen falling into pitfalls were very heavy. The Ba- 
j'eiye kindly opened the pits when they knew of our ap- 



GUIDES OBTAINEr. FROM LECHULATEBE. 43 

proaclij but, when that was not the case, we could blamo 
no one on finding an established custom of the country 
inimical to our interests. On approaching the confluence 
of the Tamunak'le we were informed that the fly called 
tsetse'*^ abounded on its banks. This was a barrier we 
never expected to meet; and, as it might have brought 
our wagons to a complete stand-still in a wilderness, 
where no supplies for the children could be obtained, 
we were reluctantly compelled to recross the Zouga. 

Prom the Bayeiye we learned that a party of English- 
men, who had come to the lake in search of ivory, were 
all laid low by fever ; so we travelled hastily down about 
sixty miles to render what aid was in our poAver. We 
were grieved to find, as we came near, that Mr. Alfred 
Eider, an enterprising young artist who had come to 
make sketches of this country and of the lake immediately 
after its discovery, had died of fever before our arrival; 
but, by the aid of medicines and such comforts as could be 
made by the only English lady who ever visited the lake, 
the others happily recovered. 

Sechele used all his powers of eloquence with Lechula- 
tebe to induce him to furnish guides, that I might bo able 
to visit Sebituano on ox-back, while Mrs. Livingstone and 
the children remained at Lake Ngami. He yielded at 
last. I had a very superior London-made gun, the gift of 
Lieutenant Arkwright, on which I placed the greatest 
value, both on account of the donor and the impossibility 
of my replacing it. Lechulatebe fell violently in love with 
it, and offered whatever number of elephants' tusks I miglit 
ask for it. I too was enamored with Sebituane ; and, as ho 
promised in addition that he would furnish Mrs. Living- 
stone with meat all the time of my absence, his argu- 
ments made me part with the gun. Though he had no 
ivory at the time to pay me, I felt the piece would be well 

* Glossina morsitans, the first specimens of "which were tronght to 
England in 1848 by my friend Major Vardon, from the banks of the 
Limpopo. 



44 MR. oswell's hunting. 

spent on those terms, and delivered it to him All being 
ready for our departure, I took Mrs. Livingstone about six 
miles from the town, that she might have a peep at the 
broad pa^'t of the lake. Next morning we had other work 
to do than part, for our little boy and girl were seized 
with fever. On the day following, all our servants were 
down too with the same complaint. As nothing is better 
in these cases than change of plac-e, I was forced to give 
up the hope of seeing Sebituane that year: so, leaving my 
gun as part payment for guides next year, we started for 
the pure air of the Desert. 

Some mistake had happened in the arrangement with 
Mr. Oswell, for we met him on the Zouga on our return, 
and he had devoted the rest of this season to elephant- 
hunting, at which the natives universally declare he is the 
greatest adept that ever came into the country. He hunted 
without dogs. It is remarkable that this lordly animal 
is so completely harassed by the presence of a few yelp- 
ing curs as to be quite incapable of attending to man. He 
makes awkward attempts to crush them by falling on hip 
knees, and sometimes places his forehead against a tree 
ten inches in diameter; glancing on one side of the tree 
and then on the other, he pushes it dawn before him, as 
if he thought thereby to catch his enemies. The only 
danger the huntsman has to apprehend is the dogs' run- 
ning toward him, and thereby leading the elephant to 
their mabter. Mr. Oswell has been known to kill foui 
large old male elephants a day. The value of the ivory in 
these cases would be one hundred guineas. We had reason 
to be proud of his success, for the inhabitants conceived 
from it a very high idea of English courage, and when 
they wished to flatter me would say, ^'If you were not a 
missionary you would just be like Oswell; you would not 
hunt with dogs either.'' When, in 1852, we came to the 
Cape, my black coat eleven years out of fashion, and with- 
out a penny of salary to draw, we found that Mr. Oswell 
had most generously ordered an outfit for the half-naked 



NCHOKOTSA. 45 

children, which cost about £200, and presented it to us, 
saying he thougl^t Mrs. Livingstone had a right to the 
grame of he^r own preserves. 

Foiled in this second attempt to reach Sebituane, we 
returned again to Kolobeng, whither we' were soon followed 
by a number of messengers from that chief himsejf. When 
ho heard of our attempts to visit him, ho despatched three 
detachments of his men with thirteen brown cows to 
Lechulatebe, thirteen white cows to Sckomi, and thirteen 
black cows to Sechele, with a request to each to assist the 
white men to reach him. Their policy, however, was to 
keep him out of view, and act as his agents in purchasii^g 
with his ivory the goods he wanted. This is thoroughly 
African; and that continent being without friths and arms 
of the sea, the tribes in the centre have alwaj^s been de- 
barred from European intercourse by its universal preva- 
lence among all the people around the coasts. 

Before setting out on our third journey to Sebituane, it 
was necessary to visit Kuruman; and Sechele, eager, for 
the sake of the commission thereon, to get the ivory of 
that chief into his own hands, allowed all the messengers 
to leave before our return. Sekomi, however, was more 
than usually gracious, and even furnished us Avith a guide, 
but no one knew the path beyond Nchokotsa vrhich wo 
intended t( ■ follow. When we reached that point, we found 
that the n ainspring of the gun of another of his men, 
who was well acquainted with the Bushmen, through whoso 
country we should pass, had opportunely broken. I never 
undertook to mend a gun with greater zest than this; for, 
under promise of his guidance, we went to the north in- 
stead of westward. All the other guides were most libe- 
rally rewarded by Mr. Oswell. 

We passed quickly over a hard country, which is perfec.tlj 
fiat. A little soil lying on calcareous tufa, over a tract oi 
s^Teral hundreds of miles, supports a vegetatior of fin^, 
f'eet short grass, and mopane and baobab trees. 

We found a great number of wells in this tufa. A plane 



46 THE GUIDE SHOBO. 

called Matlomagan-yana, or the ^^ Links/' is quite a chain 
of these never-failing springs. As they occasionally be- 
come full in seasons when no rain falls, an 1 resemble some- 
what in this respect the rivers we have already mentioned, 
it is probable they receive some water by percolation from 
the river-system in the country beyond. Among these 
links we found many families of Bushmen; and, unlike 
those on the plains of the Kalahari, who are generally of 
short stature and light yellow color, these were tall, strap- 
ping fellows, of dark complexion. Heat alone does not 
produce blackness of skin, but heat with moisture seems 
to insure the deepest hue. 

One of these Bushmen, named Shobo, consented to be our 
guide over the waste between these springs and the country 
of Sebituane. Shobo gave us no hope of water in less than 
a month. Providentially, however, we came sooner than 
we expected to some supplies of rain-water in a chain of 
pools. It is impossible to convey an idea of tho dreary 
scene on which we entered after leaving this spot : the only 
vegetation was a low scrub in deep sand ; not a bird or in- 
flect enlivened the landscape. It was, without exceptiouj 
the most uninviting prospect I ever beheld ; and, to make 
matters worse, our guide Shobo wandered on the second 
day. AYe coaxed him on at night, but he went to all points 
of the compass on the trails of elephants which had been 
here in the rainy season, and then would sit down in the 
path, and in his broken Sichuana say, "'No water, all 
country only; Shobo sleeps; he breaks down; country 
only,'' and then coolly curl himself up and go to sleep. 
The oxen were terribly fatigued and thirsty; and, on the 
morning of the fourth day, Shobo, after professing igno- 
rance of every thing, vanished altogether. We went on in 
ihe direction in which we last saw him, and about eleven 
o'clock began to see birds; then the trail of a rhinoceroa 
A-t this we unyoked the oxen, and they, apparently know 
mg the sign, rushed along to find the water in tho rivei 
Mahabe, which comes from the Tamunak'le, and lay to tho 



THE BAN A JO A. 47 

west of us. The supply of water in the wagons had been 
waster^ by one of our servants^ and by the afternoon only 
a small portion remained for the children. This was a bit- 
terly anxious night; and next morning the less there was 
of water the more thirsty the little rogues became. The 
idea of their perishing before our eyes was terrible. It 
would almost have been a relief to me to have been re- 
proached with being the entire cause of the catastrophe; 
but not one syllable of upbraiding was uttered by their 
mother, though the tearful eye told the agony within. In 
the afternoon of the fifth day, to our inexpressible relief, 
Bome of the men returned with a supply of that fluid of 
which we had never before felt the true value. 

The cattle, in rushing along to the water in the Mahab<>,, 
probably crossed a small patch of trees containing tsetse, 
an insect which was shortly to become a perfect pest to us, 
Slinbo had found his way to the Bayciye, and appeared; 
when we came up to the river, at the head of a party; 
and, as he wished to show his importance before his friends, 
he walked up boldly and commanded our whole cavalcade 
to stop, and to bring forth fire and tobacco, while he coolly 
sat down and smoked his pipe. It was such an inimitably 
natural way of showing off that we all stopped to admire 
the acting, and, though he had left us previously in the 
larch, we all liked Shobo, a fine specimen of that wonder- 
ful people, the Bushmen. 

Next day we came to a village of Banajoa, a tribe which 
extends far to the eastward. They were living on the bor- 
ders of a marsh in which the Mahabe terminates. They 
had lost their crop of corn, (Holcus sorghum^) and now sub 
sisted almost entirely on the root called ^Hsitla," a kind of 
aroidooa, which contains a very large quantity of sweet-tnsted 
starch. When dried, pounded into meal, and allowed to fer- 
ment, it forms a not unpleasant article of food. Tb e women 
shave all the hair off their heads, and seem darker than the 
Bechuanas. Their huts were built on poles, and a fire \h 
made beneath by night, in order that the smoke may drive 



48 OPERATION OP TSETSE POISON. 

away the mosqiiitos, which abound on the JVIahabc and 
Tamunak'le more than in any other pai't of the counti-y. 
The liead-inan of this village, Majane, seen^ed a little want- 
ing in ability, but had had wit enough to promote a youngei 
member of the family to the office. This person, the most 
Uke the ugly negro of the tobacconists' shops I ever saw, 
was called Moroa Majane, or son of Majane, and proved an 
active guide across the river Sonta, and to the banks of 
the Chobe, in the country of Sebituane. We had come 
through another tsetse district by night, and at oree passed 
our cattle over to the northern bank to preserve them from 
its ravages. 

A fcAV remarks on the Tsetse, or Glossina morsit'ins, may 
here be appropriate. It is not much larger than the com- 
mon house-fly, and is nearly of the same brown color as 
the common honey-bee; the after-part of the body has 
three or four yellow bars across it ; the wings project be- 
yond this part considerably, and it is remarkably alert, 
avoiding most dexterously all attempts to catch it with 
the hand at common temperatures; in the cool of the morn- 
ings and evenings it is less Agile. Its peculiar buzz when 
once heard can never be forgotten by the traveller whoso 
means of locomotion are domestic animals; for it-. is well 
known that the bite o^ this poisonous insect is certain 
death to the ox, horsC;, and dog. In this journey, though 
we were not aAvare of any great number having at any 
time lighted on our cattle, we lost forty-three fine oxen by 
its bite. We watched the animals carefully, and believe 
that not a score of flies were ever upon them. 

A most remarkable feature in the bite of the tsetse is its 
perfo<ct harmlessness in man and wild animals, and even 
calves so long as they continue to suck the cow. AVe 
never experienced the slightest injury from them ourselves, 
personally, although we lived two months in their liahitat^ 
which was in this case as sharply defined as in many others, 
for the south bank of the Chobe was infested by them, anti 
the northern bank, where our cattle were placed, only fiftj 



THE TSETSE POISON. ' i% 

yards distant, contained not a single specimen. This was 
fcho more remarkable as we often saw natives carrying over 
raw meat to the opposite bank with many tsetse settled 
upon it. 

The poison does not seem to bo injected by a sting, or by 
ova placed beneath the skin; for, when one is allowed to 
feed freely on the hand, it is seen to insert the middle prong 
of three portions, into which the proboscis divides, some- 
what deeply into the tru'^^ skin ; it then draws it out a little 
way, and it assumes a en Jison color as the mandibles como 
into brisk operation. The previously-shrunken belly swells 
out, and, if left undisturbed, the fly quietly departs wdien it 
is full. A slight itching irritation follows, but not moro 
than in the bite of a mosquito. In the ox tnis same bito 
produces no more immediate effects than in man. It does 
not startle him as the gad-fly does; but a few days after- 
ward the following symptoms supervene : the eye and nose 
begin to run, the coat stares as if the animal were cold, a 
swelling appears under the jaw and sometimes at the navel ; 
'and, though the animal continues to graze, emaciation com- 
mences, accompanied with a peculiar flaccidity of the mus- 
cles, and this proceeds unchecked until, perhaps months after- 
ward, purging comes on, and the animal, no longer able to 
graze, perishes in a state of extreme exhaustion. Those 
which are in good condition often perish soon after the bite 
is inflicted, with staggering and blindness, as if the brain 
were affected by it. Sudden changes of temperature, pro- 
duced by falls of rain, seem to hasten the progress of the 
complaint ; but, in general, the emaciation goes on uninter- 
ruptedly for months, and, do what we will, the poor animals 
perish miserably. 

When opened, the cellular tissue on the surface of tho 
body beneath the skin is seen to be injected with air, as if a 
quantity of soap-bubbles were scattered over it, or a dis- 
honest, awkward butcher had been trying to make it look 
fat. The fat is of a greenish-yellow color and of an oily 
consistence. All the muscles are flabby, and the head 



60 MEETING WITH SEBITUANE. 

ofleu SO soft that the fingers may be made to meet through 
it. The lungs and liver partake of the disease. The 
stomach and bowels are pale and empty, and the gall« 
fcluddor is distended with bile. 

The mule, ass, and goat enjoy the same immunity i'roin 
the tsetse as man and game. Many large tribes ofj. tlic 
Zambesi can keep no domestic animals except the goat, in 
consequence of the scourge existing in their country. Our 
children were frequently bitten, yet suffered no harm; 
and we saw around us numbers of zebras, buffaloes, pigs, 
pallahs and other antelopes, feeding quietly in the very 
habitat of the tsetse, yet as undisturbed by its bite aa 
oxen are when they first receive the fatal poison. 

The Makololo whom we met on the Chobo Avere delighted 
to see us; and, as their chief Sebituane was about twenty 
miles down the river, Mr. Osw^ell and I proceeded in canoeg 
to his temporary residence. He had come from the Barotse 
town of Naliele down to Sesheke as soon as he heard of 
white men being in search of him, and now came one hundred 
miles more to bid us welcome into his country. He was 
upon an island, with all his principal men around him, and 
engaged in singing when we arrived. It was more like 
chur«jh-music than the sing-song e e e, 33 83 aj, of the 
Bech'ianas of the south, and they continued the tune for 
some fjeconds after we approached. We informed him of the 
difficulties we had encountered, and how glad wo w^ere that 
they were all at an end by at last reaching his presence. 
He signified his own joy, and added, " Your cattle arc all 
bitten by the tsetse, and will certainly die ; but never mird, 
I have oxen, and will give you as many as you need." Wo, 
*n our ignorance, then thought that as so few tsetse had 
bitten them no great mischief would follow. He then pre- 
sorted us with a-n ox and a jar of honey as food, and handed 
us over to the care of Mahale, who had headed the party 
to Kolobeng, and would n^w fain appropriate to himself 
the whole credit of our coming. Prepared skins of oxen, 
AS soft as cloth were given to cover us through the night; 



HIS CHARACTER. 61 

and, as nothing could be returned to this chief, Mahale bo- 
came the owner of them. Long before it was day, Sebitiiane 
came, and sitting down by the fire, which was lighted for 
our benefit behind the hedge where we lay, he narrated the 
difiiculties he had himself experienced, when a young many 
in crossing that same desert which we had mastered long 
afterward. 

He was much pleased with the proof of confidence we 
had shown in bringing our children, and promised to take 
us to see his country, so that we might choose a part in 
which to locate ourselves. Our plan was, that I should 
remain in the pursuit of my objects as a missionary, 
while Mr. Oswell explored the Zambesi to the east. Poor 
Sebituanc, however, just after realizing what he had so long 
ardently desired, fell sick of inflammation of the lungs, 
which originated in and extended from an old wound got at 
Melita. I saw his danger, but, being a stranger, I feared 
to treat him medically, lest, in the event of his death, 1 
should be blamed by his people. I mentioned this to ono 
of his doctors, who said, '* Your fear is prudent and wise : 
this people would blame you." lie had been cured of this 
complaint, during the year before, by the Barotse making 
a large number of free incisions in the cheit. The Mako- 
lolo doctors, on the other hand, now scarcely cut the skin. 
On the Sunday afternoon in which he died, when our usual 
religious service was over, I visited him with my little boy 
Robert. '' Come near," said Sebituane, '^ and see if I am 
any longer a man. I am done." He was thus sensible of 
the dangerous nature of his disease; so I ventured to aa^ 
sent, and added a single sentence regarding hope after 
death. "Why do you speak of death?" said one of a 
relay of fresh doctors; '' Sebituane will never die." If I 
had persisted, the impression would have been produced 
that by speaking about it I wished him to die. After 
silting with him some time, and commending him to the 
mercy of God, I rose to depart, when the dying chieftain, 

raising himself up a little from his prone position, called a 

6* 



52 DEATH OF SEBITUANE. 

Hervnnl, rdid said, "Take Eobcrt to Mauiiku, [one of his 
wives,] and tell her to give him some milk." These v;gto 
the last words of Sebiiuane, 

Wc Avere not informed of his death until the next day. 
The burial of a Bechuana chief takes place in his calil»« 
p(vn, and all the cattle arc driven for an hour or two around 
and over the grave, so that it may be quite obliterated. 
We went and spoke to the people, advising them to keep 
together and support the heir. They took this kindly; 
and in turn told us not to be alarmed, for they would not 
think of ascribing the death of their chief to us; that 
Sebituane had just gone the way of his fathers; and, 
though the father had gone, he had left children, and they 
hoped that we w^ould be a?- friendly to his children as we 
intended to have been to himself. 

Ho was decidedly the best specimen of a native chief I 
ever met. I never felt so much grieved by the loss of a 
bhick man before; and it "was impossible not to follow him 
in thought into the world of which he had just heard bo 
fore he was called away, and to realize somewhat of the 
feelings of those Avho pray for the dead. The deep, dark 
question of what is to become of such as he must, how- 
ever, be left where we find it, believing that, assuredly, 
the ''Judge of all the earth will do right." 

At Sebituane's death the chieftainship devolved, as ho: 
father intended, on a daughter named Ma-mochisanc. He 
had promised to show us his country and to select a suitable 
locality for our residence. We had now to look to the 
daughter, who was living twelve days to the north, ht 
Kalielo We were obliged, therefore, to remain until a 
message came from her; and, w^ien it did. she gave us 
perfect liberty to visit any part of the country we chuso. 
Mr. Oswell and I then proceeded one hundred and thirty 
miles to the northeast, to Sesheke ; and in the end of Juno, 
1851, we w^ere rew^arded by the discovery of the Zambesi, in 
the c?ntre of the continent. This was a most important 
point, for that river was not previously known to exist 



DISCOVERY OP THE ZAMBESI. 53 

there at all. The Portuguese maps all reprefrent it as 
rising far to the east of where we now \\ere ; and, if even 
any thing like a chain of trading-stations had existed 
across the country bct^vecn the latitudes 12° and 18° soutli, 
ihis magnificent portion of the river must have been 
kiiown before. We saw it at the end of the dry season, at. 
the time when the river is about at its lowest; and yet 
there was a breadth of from three hundred to six bundled 
yards of deep, flowing water. Mr. Oswell said ho had 
never seen such a fine river even in India. At the period 
of its annual inundation it rises fully twenty feet in ])er' 
pendicuhir height, and floods flfteen or twenty miles of 
/ands adjacent to its banks. 

Occasionally the country between the Chobc and Zam- 
besi is flooded, and there are large patches of swamps lying 
near the Chobe or on its banks. The Makololo w^ere living 
among these sw^amps for the sake of the protection the 
deep reedy rivers afforded them against their enemies. 

Now, in reference to a suitable locality for a settlement 
for m^'self, I could not conscientiously ask them to aban 
don their defences for my convenience alone. The healthj 
districts wore defenceless, and the safe localities were so 
deleterious to human life that the original Basutos had 
nearly all been cut off by the fever : 1 therefore feared to 
bubjeot my family to the scourge. 

As there was no hope of the Boers allowing the peaco 
able instruction of the natives at Kolobeng, I at once re 
solved to save my family from exposure to this unhealthj" 
region by sending them to England, and to return alone, 
IV 'th a view to exploring the country in search of a 
healthy district that miglit prove a centre of civilization 
and open up the interior by a path to either the oast ot 
west coast. This resolution led me dow^n to the Capo in 
April, 1852, being the first time during eleven vears that 1 
bad visited the scenes of civilization. Our route to Cane 
Town led us to pass through the centre of the colony 
during the twentieth month of a CaflTre war; and if thoac 



64 RETURN TO THE CAPE. 

who periodically pay enormous sums for these inglonoua 
affairs wish to know how our little unprotected party 
could quietly travel through the heart of the colony to 
the capital with as little sense or sign of danger as if we 
had been in England, they must engage a ^^ Times Special 
Correspondent" for the next outbreak to explain wciere 
the money goes, and who have been benefited by thf 
blood and treasure expended. 

Having placed my family on board a homeward-bound 
ship, and promised to rejoin them in two years, we parted, 
for, as it subsequently proved, nearly five years. The 
Directors of the London Missionary Society signified their 
cordial approval of my project, by leaving the matter 
entirely to my own discretion ; and I have much pleasure 
in acknowledging my obligations to the gentlemen com- 
posing that body for always acting in an enlightened 
spirit and with as much liberality as their constitution 
would allow. 

I have the like pleasure in confessing my thankfulness 
to the Astronomer Eoyal at the Cape, Thomas Maclear, 
Esq., for enabling me to recall the little astronomical 
knowledge which constant manual labor and the engross- 
ing nature of missionary duties had effaced from my 
memory, and in adding much that I did not know before. 
The promise he made on parting, that he would examine 
and correct all my observations, had more effect in making 
me persevere in overcoming the difiSculties of an unassisted 
solitary observer than any thing else ; so, whatever credit 
may be attached to the geographical positions laid down 
in my route must be attributed to the voluntary aid of 
the excellent and laborious astronomer of the Cape Obser- 
vatory. 

Having given the reader as rapid a sketch as possible 
of events which attracted notice between 1840 and 1852, I 
now proceed to narrate the incidents of the last and 
longest journey of all, performed in 1*^52-56 



THE LAST AND LONGEST JOURNEY. 55 



CHAPTEE Y. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE STARTS IN JUNE, 1852, ON THE LAST AND 
LONGEST JOURNEY FROM CAPE TOWN. 

Having sciit my family home to England, I started in 
tbo beginning of June, 1852, on my last journey from 
Cape Town. This journey extended from the southern 
extremity of the continent to St. Paul de Loando, the 
capital of Angola, on the west coast, and thence across 
Soutii Central Africa in an oblique direction to Kilimane 
(Qiiilimane) in Eastern Africa. I proceeded in the usual 
conveyance of the country, the heavy lumbering Cape 
wagon drawn by ten oxen, and was accompanied by two 
Christian Bechuanas from Kuruman, — than whom I nevei 
saw better servants anywhere, — by two Bakwain men, 
and two young girls, who, having come as nurses with our 
children to tlie Cape, were returning to their home at 
Kolobcng, Wagon-travelling in Africa has been so often 
described that 1 need say no more than that it is a prolonged 
system of picnicking, excellent for the health, and agree- 
able to those who are not over-fastidious about trifles, 
and who delight in being in the open air. 

Our route to the north lay near the centre of the cono- 
shaped mass of land which constitutes the promontory ot 
the Cape. 

The slow pace at which we wound our way through the 
colony made almost any subject interesting. The attention 
is attracted to the names of diiferent places, because they 
indicate the former existence of buffaloes, elands, and ele- 
phants, which arc now to be found only hundreds of milea 
beyond. A few blesbucks, {AntUope pygarga,) gnus, bluo- 
bucks, (A. cerulea,) steinbucks, and tl*e ostrich, {Struthio 
camelus,) continue, like the Bushmen, to maintain a pre- 
carious existence when all the rest are gone. The oie- 



56 ANIMALS OF THE DESERT. 

phant, the most sagacious, flees the sound of firc-anna 
first ; the gnu and ostrich, ihe most wary j*nd the most 
Btu])id, hxst. The first emigrants found the Hottentots in 
possession of prodigious herds of fine cattle, but no horses, 
asses, or camels. The original cattle, which may still be 
B2cn in some parts of the frontier, must have been brought 
south from the north-northeast, for from this point the 
natives universally ascribe their original migration. They 
brought cattle, sheep, goats, and dogs : why not the horse, 
the delight of savage hordes ? Horses thrive well in the 
Capo Colony when imported. Xaturalists point out cer- 
tain mountain-ranges as limiting the habitat of certain 
classes of animals; but there is no Cordillera in Africa to 
answer that purpose, there being no visible barrier between 
the northeastern Arabs and the Hottentot tribes to prevent 
the different hordes, as they felt their way southward, 
from indulging their taste for the possession of this noblo 
animal. 

I am here led to notice an invisible barrier, more insur- 
mountable than mountain-ranges, but which is not opposed 
to the southern progress of cattle, goats, and sheep. The 
tsetse would prove a barrier only imtil its well-defined 
habitat was known ; but the disease passing under the 
term of horse-sickness {•peripneumonia') exists in such viru- 
lence over nearly seven degrees of latitude that no precau- 
tion would be sufficient to save these animals. The horse 
is so liable to this disease, that only by great care in stabling 
can he bo kept anywhere between 20° and 27° S. during 
the time between December and April. The winter, begiL- 
ning in the latter month, is the ow\y period in which Eng- 
lishmen can hunt on horseback, and they are in danger of 
losing all their studs some months before December. To 
this disease the horse is especially exposed, and it is almost 
always fatal One attack, however, seems to secure im- 
munity from a second, Cattle, too, are subject to it, but 
only at intervals of a few, sometimes many, years; but it 
i\cver luakcs a clean swecf of the whole catl'.e of a village, 



H0RSE-SICK^E8S. 51 

as it would do of a trcop of fifty horses. This barrior^ 
then, seems to exphiin the absence of the horse among the 
Hottentots, though it is not opposed to the southern migra* 
tion of cattle, sheep, and goats. 

Wlien ihe flesh of animals that have died of this disease 
is eaten, it causes a malignant carbuncle, which, when it 
appears over any important organ, proves rapidly fatal. 
It is more especially dangerous over the pit of the stomach. 
The effects of the poison have been experienced by mis. 
sionaries who had eaten properlj^-cooked food, — the ^Icsh 
of sheep really but not visibly affected by the disease. 
The virus in the flesh of the animal is destroj^ed neither by 
boiling nor roasting. This fact, of which wo have had innu- 
merable examples, shows the superiority^ of experiments on 
a large scale lo those of acute and able physiologists and 
chemists in the laboratory; for a well-known physician of 
Paris, after careful investigation, considered that the virua 
in such cases was completely neutralized by boiling. 

This disease attacks wild animals too. During our re- 
sidence at Clionuan, great numbers of tolos, or koodoos, 
were attracted to the gardens of the Bakwains, abandoned 
at the usual period of harvest because there was no pros- 
pect of the corn {Holcus sorghum) bearing that year. The 
koodoo is remarkably fond of the green stalks of this kind 
of millfco. Free feeding produced that state of fatness favor- 
able for the development of this disease, and no fewer than 
twenty- five died on the hill opposite our house. Great 
numbers of gnus and zebras perished from the same cause; 
but the mortality produced no sensible diminution in tho 
numbers of the game, any more than tho deaths of many 
of tho Bakwains who persisted, in spite of ever}' romon* 
strancc, in eating tho dead meat, caused any sensible do- 
crease in the strength of the tribe. 

Before wo came to tho Orange Iliver, wo saw tho last 
portion of a migration of springbucks, {Gazella euchorc, oi 
taepo.) They came from the great Kalahari Desert, and, 
when first seen after crossing tho colonial boundary, ara 



58 THE GR1Q.UAS. 

said often to exceed forty thousand in nuu ber I cannot 
give an estimate of their numbers, for tlic}^ apfcar spread 
over a vast ex])anse of country, and make a quivering 
motion as they feed, and move, and toss their graceful 
horns. They feed cliicfly on grass; and, as they como 
from the north about the time wlien tiic grass most 
abounds, it cannot be want of food that prompts tae 
movement. Nor is it want of water; for this antelope \n 
one of the most abstemious in that respect. Their nature 
prompts them to seek as their favorite haunts level plains 
with short grass, vrherc they may be able to wat(iii the 
approach of an enemy. The Bakahiluiri take advantage 
of this feeling, and burn off large patches of grass, not only 
to attract the game by the new crop when it comes up, but 
also to Ibrm bare spots for the springbuck to i*ange over. 

On crossinii: the Oranc-c Kivcr we come into indo- 
pendent territory inhabited by Griquas and Bechuanas. 
By Griquas is meant any mixed race sprung from natives 
and Europeans. Those in question were of Dutch extrac- 
tion through association with Hottentot and Bush w^omen 
Half-castes of the first generation consider themselves 
superior to those of the second, and all possess in some 
degi-ce the characteristics of^hoth parents. They were 
.governed for many years by an elected chief, named 
Waterbocr, who, by treat}', received a small sum per 
annum from the colonial government for the support of 
echoolrs ill his country', and proved a most efficient guard 
of our northwest boundary. 

Many hundreds of both Griquas and Bechuanas have 
become Christians and partially civilized through the 
teaching of English missionaries. My first impressions of 
the progress made were that the accounts of the effects of 
the gospel among them had been too highly colored. 1 
expected a higher degree of Christian simplicity and puiity 
than exists either among them or among ourselves. T waa 
not ariXious for a deeper insight in detecting shams than 
others; but I expected character, such as wo imagine the 



DRESS OP THE NATIVES. 59 

primitive disciples had, — and was disappointed. AVhen, 
however, I passed on to the true heathen in the countries 
beyond the sphere of missionary influence, and could com- 
pare the people there with the Christian natives, I came to 
the conclusion that, if the question were examined in the 
most rigidly severe or scientific way, the change eflcctod 
by the missionary movement would be considered unques- 
tionably great. 

We cannot fairly compare these poor people with our- 
selves, who have an atmosphere of Christianity and en 
lightened public opinion, the growth of centuries, around 
us, to influence our deportment ; but let any one from the 
natural and proper point of view behold the public mo- 
rality of Griqua Town, Kuruman, Likatlong, and otlior 
villages, and remember what even London Avas a century 
aoro. and he must confess that the Christian mode of treat- 
ing aborigines is incomparably the best. 

The Griquas and Bechuanas were in former times clad 
much like the Caffres, if such a word may be used where 
there is scarcely any clothing at all. A bunch of leather 
strings about eighteen inches long hung from the lady's 
waist in front, and a prepared skin of a sheep or anteloi^c 
covered the shoulders, leaving the breast and abdomen 
bare : the men wore a patch of skin, about the size of the 
crown of one's hat, which barely served for the purposes 
of decency, and a mantle exactly like that of the women. 
To assist in protecting the pores of the skin from the in- 
fluence of the sun by day and of the cold by night, all 
smeared themselves with a mixture of fat and ochre; the 
head is anointed with pounded blue mica schist mixed with 
fat; and the fine particles of shining mica, falling on tbe 
body and on strings of beads and brass rings, Avcre con- 
sidered as highly ornamental, and fit for the most fasti- 
dious dandy. Now these same people come to church in 
UeBent though poor clothing, and behave with a decorum 
certainl}' superior to what seems to have been :lie case in 
the time of M)* Samuel Pepys in Lt ndon Su iday is weU 



60 ARTICLES OS COMMERCE. 

ol)8orved, and, even m localities where no missionary Jivca 
rclio-ious meetings are regularly held, and children and 
adults taught to read by the more advanced of their owe 
fellow-countrymen; and no one is allowed to make a pi«> 
I'essioji of faith by baptism unless he knows how to read 
and understands the nature of the Christian religion 

The i^echuana Mission has been so far successful that, 
when coming from the interior, we always felt, on i"eaching 
Kuruman, that we had returned to civilized life. But 1 
would not give any one to understand by this that they 
arc model Christians, — we cannot claim to be model Chris- 
tians ourselves, — or even in any degree superior to the 
members of our country churches. They are more stingy 
and greedy than the poor at home; but in manj' respectf 
the two arc exactly' alike. On asking an intelligent chief 
what he thought of tliem, he replied, " You white men 
have no idea of how wicked we are; wc know each other 
better than you: some feign belief to ingraliatc themselves 
with the missionaries; some profess Christiai.ity because 
they like the new system, which gives so .iiuch more 
importance to the poor, and desire that the old system 
mi\y pass away; and the rest — a pretty large number — 
profess because they are really true believers." This 
testimony ma}^ be considered as ver}- nearly correct. 

There is not much prospect of this country ever pro 
ducing much of the materials of commerce except wool 
At present the chief articles of trade are karossos or man 
ties, — the skins of which they are composed come from the 
Desert; next to them, ivory, the quantity of which cannot 
now be great, inasmuch as the means of shooting elephant? 
is sedulously debarred entrance into the country. A few 
ikins and horns, and some cattle, make up the remainder 
of the exports. English goods, sugar, tea, and coffee aro 
the articles received in exchange. All the natives of these 
parts soon become remarkably fond of coffee. The acmfl 
of respectability among the liechuanas is the j)ossession of 
c&itle and a wagon. It is remarkable that, though these 



KURUMAN : ITS FOUNTAIN. 61 

latter require frequent repairs^ none of the Bechuanas h.avo 
ever learned to mend theiii. Forges and tools have been 
at their service, and teachers willing to aid them, but, 
beyond putting together a camp-stool, no effort has ever 
been -made to acquire a knowledge of the trades. Thcj 
observe most carefully a missionary at work until thoy 
understand whether a tire is well welded or not, and then 
pronounce upon its merits with great emphasis; but there 
their ambition rests satisfied. It is the same peculiarity 
among ourselves which leads us in other matters, such as 
book-making, to attain the excellence of fault-finding 
without the wit to indite a page. It was in vain I tried 
to indoctrinate the Bechuanas with the idea that criticism 
did not imply any superiority over the workman, or even 
equality with him. 



CIIAPTEE VI. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE VISITS HIS FATHER-IN-LAW, MR. MOFFAT, 

AT KURUMAN. 

The permanence of the station called Kuruman depends 
entirely on the fine ever-flowing fountain of that name. 
It comes from beneath the trap-rock, and, as it usually 
issues at a temperature of 72° Fahr., it probably comes 
from the old silurian schists which formed the bottom of 
the great primeval valley of the continent. I could not 
detect any diminution in the flow of this gushing fouritain 
during m}^ residence in the country; but when Mr. Mofl'ut 
first attempted a settlement here, thirty-five years ago, he 
made a dam six or seven miles below the present one, and 
led out the stream for irrigation, where not a drop of the 
fountain-water ever now flows. Other parts, fourteen miles 
below the Kuruman gardens, are pointed out as having 



&2 ATTEMPTS TO OBTAIN WATER. 

contained, within the mcnaoiy of people now Uving, 
hippopotumi, and pools sufficient to drown both men and 
caitlc. This failure of water must be chiefly ascribed to 
the general desiccation of the country, but partly also to 
the amount of irrigation carried on along both banks of 
the stream at the mission-station. This latter circum- 
stance would have more weight were it not coincident 
with the failure of fountains over a wide extent of 
country 

Without rt present entering minutely into this feature 
of the olim.-tie, It may be remarked that the Kuruman dis« 
trict presents ovidence of this dry southern region having 
at no very distant date, been as well watered as the country 
north of Lake Ngami is now. Ancient river-beds and 
water-courses abound, and the very eyes of fountains long 
since dried up may be seen, in which the flow of centuries 
has worn these orifices from a slit to an oval form, having 
on their sides the tufa so abundantly deposited from these 
primitive waters; and just where the splashings, made 
when the stream fell on the rock below, may be supposed 
to have reached and evaporated, the same phenomenon 
anpcars. Many of these failing fountains no longer flow, 
because the brink over which they ran is now too high, or 
because the elevation of the western side of the country 
h^ls the land away from the water-supply below ; but let a 
ci tting be made from a lower level than the brink, and 
through it to a part below the surface of the water, and 
wuter flows perennially. Several of these ancient fountains 
h?ve been resuscitated by the Bechuanas near Kuruman, 
who occasionally show their feelings of self-esteem by 
hil)oring for months at deep cuttings, which, having once 
begun, they feel bound in honor to persevere in, though 
told by a miss-Jonary that they can never force water to run 
ii]) hill. 

During the period of my visit at Kuruman, Mr. Moffat, 
\\ no ha^ been a missionary in Africa during upward of forty 
years, and is well known by his interest 'ng work, "Scenes 



THE BECHUANA LANGUAGE. 63 

and Labors in South Africa," was bnsily engaged in carry- 
ing through the press, with which his station is furnislied, 
the Bible in the language of the Becluianas, which is called 
Sichuana. This has been a work of immense labor; and as 
he was the first to reduce their speech to a written form, 
and has had his attention directed to the study for at least 
thirty years, he may be supposed to be better adapted for 
the task than any man living. Some idea of the copioir-- 
uess of the language may bo for;;/icd from the fact that 
oven ho never spends a week at his work Avithout disco ver- 
iijg new words; the phenomenon, therefore, of any man 
whO; after a few months' or years' study of a native tongue, 
cackles forth a torrent of vocables, may well bo wondered 
at, ?f it is meant to convey instruction. In my own case, 
though I have had as much intercourse with the purest 
'dlorn as most Englishmen, and have studied the language 
carefully, yet I can never utter an important statement 
w^ithout doing so very slowly, and repeating it too, lest the 
foreign accent, which is distinctly perceptible in all Euro- 
peans, should render the sense unintelligible. In this I 
follow the example of the Bechuana orators, who, on im- 
portant matters, always speak slowly, deliberately, and 
v.'ith reiteration. The capabilities of this language may 
bo inferred from the fact that the Pentateuch is fully ex- 
pressed in Mr. Moffat's translation in fewer words than id 
the Greek Scptuagint, and in a very considerably &!nallor 
Qiimber than in our ow^n English version. The language 
IF, however, so simple in its construction, that its copious- 
ress by no means requires the explanation that the pcoj>lo 
Lave fallen from a former state of civilization and culturo. 
Tlie fact of the complete translation of the Bibio at a 
etutior seven hundred miles inland from the Cape natuniliy 
naggcsts the question whether it is likely to be permanently 
useliil, and whether Christianity, as planted by modern 
^aissions, is likely to retain its vitality without constant 
«upplies of foreign teaching. It w^ould certainly bo no 
fjauso for congratulation if the Bechuana Bible seemod at 

6* 



64 TRANSLATION OF THE BIBLE. 

all likely to meet the fate of Elliot's Chocta-'.v version, s 
epocimeii of which may be seen in the library of one of tlu 
Arccrican colleges, — as God's word in a langna^io which nt 
living tongue can articulate, nor living mortal mi<lerstand. 
but Ji better destiny seems in store for this, for ilic Sichuana 
language has been introduced into the new country bej'ond 
Lake Ngami. There it is the court language, and will take 
a stranger anywhere through a district hirger than France. 
Tho Bechuanas, moreover, in all probability possess that 
imperishability wdiich forms so remarkable a feature in tho 
entire African race. 

Protestant missionaries of every denomination in South 
Africa all agree in one point, that no mere profession of 
Christianity is sufficient to entitle the converts to the 
Christian name. They are all anxious to place the Bible 
in the hands of the natives, and, with ability to road tliat, 
there can bo little doubt as to the future. Wq bclievj 
Christianity to be divine, and equal to all it has to perform; 
then let the good seed be widely sown, and, no matter to 
what sect the converts may belong, the harvest will be 
glorious. Let nothing that I have said be interpreted an 
indicative of feelings inimical to an^^ body of Christians, 
for I never, ag a missionary, felt myself to be cither Pres- 
b^'terian. Episcopalian, or Independent, or called upon in 
any way to love one denomination less than another. My 
earnest desire is, that those who really have the best in- 
terests of the heathen at heart should go to them; and 
assuredly, in Africa at least, self-denying ]abors among real 
heathen will not fail tc be appreciated. Christians have 
never yet dealt fairly by the heathen and been disappointed. 

When Sechele understood that we could no longer renuvin 
with him at Kolobeng, ho sent his children to JMr. Moflat, 
at Kuruman, for instruction in all the knowledge of tho 
vihitc men. Mr Moffat very liberally received at onco a& 
accession of five to his family, with their attendants. 

Having been detained at Kuruman about a fortnight by 
the breaking of a wagon-wheel, I was thus providentiallj? 



sechele's letter. ' 65 

prevented from being present at the attack of tlic Boera 
on the Bak wains, news of which was brought, about the 
end of that time, by Masebele, the wife of Sechelc. She 
had herself been hidden in a cleft of a rock, over ^\hich i» 
number of Boers were firing. Her infant began to cry, 
ftnd, terrified lest this snould attract the attention of the 
men, the muzzles of whose guns appeared at every discharge 
over her head, she took off her armletf as playthings to quiei 
tlie child. She brought Mr. Moffat a letter, which tells its 
own tale. Nearly literally translated it was as follows : — 

*^ Friend of my heart's love, and of all the confidence of 
my heart, I am Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who 
attacked me, though I had no guilt with them. They de- 
manded that 1 should be in their kingdom, and I refused. 
They demanded that I should prevent the English and 
Griquas from passing (northward). 1 replied. These aro 
my friends, and I can prevent no one (of them). They 
3ame on Saturday, and I besought them not to fight or* 
Sunday, and they assented. They began on Monday 
morning at twilight, and fired with all their might, and 
burned the town with fire, and scattered us. They killed 
sixty of my people, and captured women, and children, 
and men. And the mother of Baleriling (a former wife of 
Sechele) they also took prisoner. They took all the cattle 
and all the goods of the Bakwains; and the house of Living, 
stone they plundered, taking away all his goods. The 
number of wagons they had was eighty-five, and a cannon; 
and after thay had stolen my own wagon and that of 
Macabe, then the number of their wagons (counting the 
cannon as one) was eighty-eight. All the goods of the 
hunters (certain English gentlemen hunting and exploring 
m the north) were burned in the town; and of the Boerd 
were killed twenty-eight. Yes, my beloved friend, now 
my wife goes to see the children, and Kobus Hao will coi> 
•yey her to you. '^I am Sechele, 

"The son of Mochoasele." 



66 A PANIC. 

This statement is ij. exact accordance with the account 
given by the native teacher Mebalwe, and also that sent 
by some of the "Boers themselves to the public colonial 
papers. The crime of cattle-stealing, of which we hear sc 
'aauch near Caffreland, was never alleged against those 
people; and, if a single case had occurred when I was in 
the country, I must have heard of it^ and would at once 
say so. But the only crime imputed in the papers was 
that ^'Sechele was getting too saucy." The demand made 
for his subjection and service in preventing the English 
traders passing to the north was kept out of view. 

Yery soon after Pretorius had sent the marauding-party 
against Kolobeng, he was called away to the tribunal of 
infinite justice. His policy is justified by the Boers gcno- 
rally from the instructions given to the Jewish warriors 
in Deuteronomy xx. 10-14. Hence, w^hen he died, tho 
obituary notice ended with "Blessed are the dead who die 
in the Lord.'' I wish he had not ^^ forbidden us to preach 
into the Gentiles that they may be saved." 

The report of this outrage on the Bakwains, coupled 
with denunciations against myself for having, as it was 
alleged, taught tliem to kill Boers, produced such a panic 
in the country that I could not engage a single servant to 
accompany me to the north. I have already alluded to 
their mode of warfare, and in all previous Boerish forays 
the killing had all been on one side; now, however, that a 
tribe where an Englishman had lived had begun to shed 
their blood as well, it was considered the strongest pre- 
sumptive evidence against me. Loud vow^ of vengeance 
were uttered against my head, and threats of instant pur- 
fuit by a large party on horseback, should I dare to go into 
or beyond their country; and as these were coupled ffith 
tho declaration that the English Government had given 
over tho whole of the native tribes to their rule, and would 
ftssist in their entire subjection by preventing fire-arms 
and ammunition from entering the country except for tho 
us© of tho Boers, it was not to be wondered at that I was 



sechele's intended journey. 6T 

detained for months at Kuruman from sheer inability to get 
wagon-drivers. The English name^ from being honored 
and respected all over the country, had become tiomewhat 
more than suspected; and as the policy of depriving thosa 
friendly tribes of the means of defence was represented 
by the Boers as proof positive of the wish of the English 
that they should be subjugated, the conduct of a govern- 
ment which these tribes always thought the paragon 
of justice and friendship was rendered totally incompre- 
hensible to them; they could neither defend themselves 
against their enemies, nor shoot the animals in the pro- 
duce of which we wished them to trade. 

At last I found three servants willing to risk a journey 
to the north ; and «i man of color named George Fleming, 
who had generously been assisted by Mr. H. E. Eutherford, 
a mercantile gentleman of Cape Town, to endeavor to 
establish a trade with the Makololo, had also managed to 
get a similar number; we accordingly left Kuruman on the 
20th of November, and proceeded on our journey. Our 
servants were the worst possible specimens of those who 
imbibe the vices without the virtues of Europeans; but we 
had no choice, and were glad to get away on any terms. 

When we reached Motito, forty miles off, we met Sechele 
on his way, as he said, "to the Queen of England.'' Tavo 
of his own children, and their mother, a former wife, were 
among the captives seized by the Boers; and, being strongly 
imbued with the then very prevalent notion of England's 
justice and genero&ity, he 1 bought, that in consequence of 
the violated treaty he had a fair case to lay before hei 
majesty. He employed all his eloquence and powers of 
persuasion to induce me to accompany him, but I excused 
myself on the ground that my arrangements were already 
made for exploring the north. On exj^laining the diffi. 
oulties of the way, and endeavoring to dissuade him from 
the attempt, on account of the knowledge 1 possessed of 
the governor's policy, he put the pointed question, <<WiU 
the queen not listen to me, supposing 1 should roach her?*' 



6B HIS RET CRN. 

I replied, "I believe she would listen, but the difficulty is 
to get to her." "Well, I shall reach her," expressed his 
final determination. Others explained the difficulties more 
fully, but nothing could shake his resolution. "When he 
reached Bloemfontein he found the English army just re- 
turning from a battle with the Basutos, in which bctb 
parties claimed the victory, and both were glad that a 
«econd engagement was not tried. Our officers invited 
Sechele to dine with them, heard his story, and collected 
a handsome sum of money to enable him to pursue his 
journey to England. The commander refrained from no- 
ticing him, as a single word in favor of the restoration of 
the children of Sechele would have been a virtual confes- 
sion of the failure of his own policy at the very outset. 
Sechele proceeded as far as the Cape; but, his resources 
being there expended, he was obliged to return to his own 
country, one thousand miles distant, without accomplishing 
the object of his journey. 

On his return he adopted a mode of punishment which 
be had seen in the colony, namely, making criminals work 
on the public roads. And he has since, I am informed, 
made himself the missionary to his own peoj^le. He is tall, 
rather corpulent, and has more of the negro feature than 
common, but has large ej^es. He is very dark, and his peo- 
ple swear by "Black Sechele." He has great intelligence, 
reads well, itnd is a fluent speaker. Great numbers of the 
tribes formerly living under the Boers have taken refuge 
under his sway, and he is now greater in power than he 
was before the attack on Kolobeng. 

Having parted with Sechele, we skirted along the Kala- 
hari Desert, and sometimes within its borders, giving the 
Boers a wide be^th. A larger fall of rain than usual had 
occurred in 1852, and that was the completion of a'cjclo 
of cbven or twelve years, at which the same phenomenon 
is reported to have happened on three occasions. An un- 
usually large crop of melons had appeared in consequence 
Wo had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. J. Macabe return- 



SACRED CAVE. t% 

ing from Lake Ngamij which he had succeeded in reaching 
by going right across the Desert from a point a little to the 
south of Kolobeng. The accounts of the abundance of 
water-melons were amply confirmed by this energOwie 
traveller; for, having these in vast quantities, his cattle sub- 
sisted en the fluid contained in them for a period of no less 
than twenty-one days; and when at last they reached a 
supply of water they did not seem to care much about it. 
Coming to the lake from the southeast, he crossed the 
Teoughe, and went round the northern part of it, and is 
the only European traveller who had actually se .;n it all. 
His estimate of the extent of the lake is higher than that 
given by Mr. Oswell and myself, or from about ninety to 
one hundred miles in circumference. 

On the 31st of December, 1852, we reached the town of 
Sechele, called, from the part of the range on which it is 
situated, Litubaruba. Near the village there exists a cave 
named Lepelole; it is an interesting evidence of the former 
existence of a gushing fountain. No one dared to enter the 
Lohaheng, or cave, for it was the common belief thut it was 
ahe habitatioi of the Deity. As we never ha^ a holiday 
from Jan' ^ry to December, and our Sundays were the pe- 
riods ol our greatest exertions in teachings I projected an 
excursion into the cave on a weekday to see the god of the 
P.akwair.d. The old men said that every one who went in 
remained there forever, adding, "If the teacher is so mad 
as to kill himself, let him do so alone: we shall not be to 
blame." The declaration of Sechele, that he would follow 
T^here 1 led, produced the greatest consternation. It is 
curious that in all their pretended dreams or visions of their 
god he has always a crooked leg, like the Egyptian Thau. 
Supposing that those who were reported to have perished 
In this cave had fallen over some precipice, we vicni well 
provided with lights, ladder, lines, &c. ; but it turned out lo 
be only an open cave, with an entrance about ten feet square, 
which contracts into two waier-worn branches, ending in 
round orifices through which the water once flowed. Tb« 



70 RETALIATION ON BOERS. 

oiily inhaMlants it seems ever to have had were baboorifl. 
1 lofl at the end of the upper branch one of Father Mathew's 
leaden teetotal tickets. 

1 never saAv the Bakwains looking so haggard and lean 
as at this time. Most of their cattle had been swept awaj" 
by the Boers, together with about eighty fine draught-oxen,' 
and much provision left with them by two officers, Cap- 
tains Codrington and Webb, to serve for their return jour- 
ney south, had been carried off also. On their return these 
officers found the skeletons of the Bakwains where they 
expected to find their own goods. All the corn, clothings 
and furniture of the people, too, had been consumed in the 
flames which the Boers had forced the subject tribes to 
apply to the town during the fight, so that its inhabitants 
were now literally starving. 

Sechele had given orders to his people not to commit any 
act of revenge pending his visit to the Queen of England; 
but some of the young men ventured to go to meet a party 
of Boe*s returning from hunting, and, as the Boers became 
terrified and ran ofl', they brought their wagons to Lituba- 
ruba. Thit seems to have given the main t ^dy of Boers 
an idea that :he Bakwains meant to begin a gu "rilla war 
upon them. Ihis '' Cafi're war" was, however, only in 
embryo, and not near that stage of development in which 
the natives have found out that the hide-and-seek i^ystem is 
the most successful. 

The Boers, in alarm, sent four of their number to ask for 
peace ! I, being present, heard the condition : — "Sechele's 
children must be restored to him.'' I never saw men so 
completely and unconsciously in a trap as these four Boer» 
were. Strong parties of armed Bakwains occupied every 
pass in the hills and gorges around; and had they not pro- 
mised much more ihan they intended, or did perform, that 
day would have been their ^ast. The commandant Scholz 
bad appropriated the children of Sechele to be his own 
domestic slaves. I was present when one little boy, Khari, 
son of SochelCj was returned to his mother; the child hacj 



LOVE OF CHILDREN. 71 

been allowed to roll into the fire, and there were three largo 
unbound open sores upon different parts of his body. His 
mother and the women received him with a flood of silent 
tears. 

Slavery is said to be mild and tender-hearted in somo 
pla?:>s. The Boers assert that they are the best of masters, 
and that, if the English had possessed the Hottentot slaves, 
they would have received much worse treatment than they 
did : what that would have been it is difficult to imagine. 
I took down the names of some scores of boys and girls, 
many of whom I knew as our scholars; but I could not 
comfort the weeping mothers by any hope of tbeir ever 
returning from slavery. 

The Bechuanas are universally much attached to children. 
A little child toddling near a party of men while they are 
eating is sure to get a handful of the food. This love of 
children may arise in a great measure from the patriarchal 
system under which they dwell. Every little stranger 
forms an increase of property to the whole community, 
and is duly reported to the chief, — boys being more wel- 
come than girls. The parents take the name of the child, 
and often address their children as Ma, (mother,) or Ea. 
(faiher.) Our eldest boy being named Eobert, Mrs. Livirg- 
fitont was, after his birth, always addressed as Ma-Rcbert, 
instead of Mary, her Christian name. 



CHAPTER YII. 

LIVINGSTONE LEAVES THE COUNTRY OP THE BAKWAINS 

Having remained five days with the wretched Bak wains, 
Bceing the effects of war, of which only a very inadequate 
idea can ever be formed by those who have not been eye- 
witnesses of its miseries, we prepared to depart on the 
15th of January, 1853. Several dogs, in better condition 
by far than any of the people, had taken uji their residence 



73 DEPARTURE FROM BAKWAT3( COUNTRY^ 

at tho water. No one would own them ; there they hac 

remained, and, coming on the trail of the people, long after 

their departure from tho scene o** conflict, it was plain 

they had 

'* Held o'er the dead thei»* carnival." 

flenco the disgust with which they were viewed. 

On our way from Khopong, along the ancient river-bod 
which forms the pathway to Boatlanama, I found a species 
of cactus, being the third I had seen in the country, namely, 
one in the colony with a bright red flower, one at Lake 
Ngami, the flower of which was liver-colored, and tho 
present one, flower unknown. That the plant is uncommon 
may be inferred from the fact that the Bakwains find so 
much difficulty in recognising tho plant again after having 
once seen it, that they believe it has the power of changing 
its locality. 

On the 21st of January we reached the wells of Boat- 
lanama, and found them for the first time empty. Lopepe, 
which I had formerly seen a stream running from a largo 
reedy pool, was also dry. The hot salt spring of Scrinano, 
east of Lopepe, being undrinkable, we pushed on to Mashiio 
foi its delicious waters. In travelling through this country, 
the olfactory nerves are frequently excited by a stronr dis- 
agreeable odor. This is caused by a large jet-blp v ant 
named " Lcshonya." It is nearly an inch in lengin, and 
emits a pungent smell when alarmed, in tho same manner 
as the skunk. The scent must be as volatile as ether, for, 
on iiritating the insect with a stick six feet long, the odor is 
instantly perceptible. 

That the fear of man often remains excessively strong in 
the carnivora is proved from well-authenticated cases in 
which the lioness, in the vicinity of towns where the largo 
game had been unexpectedly driven away by fire-arms, 
has been known to assuage the paroxysms of hunger by 
devouring her own young. It must be added that, though 
the effluvium which is left by the footsteps of man is in 
gereral sufficient to induce lions to avoid a village, ther» 



THE LION. 73 

aro eif ceptions : so many camo about oar half-desorted 
houses at Chonuano wliile we were in the act of removing 
to Kolobeng, that the natives who remained with Mrs. 
Ijivingstone were terrified to stir out of doors in the even- 
ing. Bitches, also, have been known to be guilty of the 
horridly unnatural act of eating their own young, probably 
from the great desire for animal food, which is expcrientod 
by the inhabitants as well. 

When a lion is met in the daytime, a circumstance by nc 
means unfrequent to travellers in these parts, if precon- 
ceived notions do not lead them to expect something very 
^^ noble" or "majestic/^ they will see merely an animal 
somewhat larger than the biggest dog they ever saw, and 
partaking very strongly of the canine features : the face is 
not much like the usual drawings of a lion, the nose being 
prolonged like a dog's; not exactly such as our painters 
raak-? it, — though they might learn better at the Zoologica. 
Gardens, — their ideas of majesty being usually shown by 
making their lions' faces like old women in nightcaps. 
When encountered in the daytime, the lion stands a second 
or two, gazing, then turns slowly round, and walks as 
^lowly away for a dozen paces, looking over his shoulder, 
then begins to trot, and, when he thinks himself out of 
sight, bounds off like a greyhound. By day there is not, 
as a rule, the smallest danger of lions which are not 
molested attacking man, nor even on a clear moonlight 
night, except when they possess the breeding (7ro/>^^, (natural 
affection :) this makes them brave almost any danger; and 
if a man happens to cross to the windward of them, both 
lion and lioness will rush at him, in the manner of a bitch 
with wnelps. This does not often happen, as I only became 
aware of two or three instances of it. In one case a man, 
passing where the wind blew from him to the animals, was 
bitten before he could climb a tree; and occasionally a man 
on horseback has been caught by the leg under the same 
circumstances. So general, however, is the sense of security 
on moonlight nights, that we seldom tied up our oxen, bill 



74 HABITS OF THE LION. 

lot them lie loose by the wagons; while on a dark, rainy 
night, if a lion is in the neighborhood, he is almost sure to 
venture to kill an ox. His approach is alwa^'S stcalthj, 
bxcept when wounded; and any appearance of a trap la 
enough to cause him to refrain from making the last spring. 
This seems characteristic of the feline species : when a 
^oat is picketed in India for the purpose of enabling the 
huntsmen to shoot a tiger by night, if on a plain, he would 
whip off the animal so quickly by a stroke of the paw that 
no one could take aim; to obviate this, a small pit is dug, 
and the goat is picketed to a stake in the bottom; a small 
stone is tied in the ear of the goat, which makes him cry 
the whole night. When the tiger sees the appearance of 
a trap, he walks round and round the pit, and allows the 
hunter, who is lying in wait, to have a fair shot. 

When a lion is very hungry, and lying in wait, the sight 
of an animal may make him commence stalking it. In one 
case a man, while stealthily crawling toward a rhinoceros, 
happened to glance behind him, and found to his horror a 
lion stalking him; he only escaped by springing up a tree 
hke a cat. At Lopepe a lioness sprang on the after-quarter 
of Mr. Oswell's horse, and when we came up to him we 
found the marks of the claws on the horse, and a scratch 
on Mr. O.'s hand. The horse, on feeling the lion on him, 
sprang away, and the rider, caught by a wait-a-bit thorn, 
was brought to the ground and rendered insensible. His 
dogs saved him. Another English gentleman (Captain 
Codrington) was surprised in tke same way, though not 
hunting the lion at the time, but turning round he shot him 
dead in itie neck. By accident a horse belonging to Cod- 
rington ran away, but was stopped by the bridle catching 
a stump ; there he remained a prisoner two days, and when 
found the whole space around was marked by the footprints 
of lioi\s. They had evidently been afraid to attack the 
haltered horse, from fear that it was a trap. Two liona 
came up by night to within three yards of oxen tied to a 
wagon, and a sheep tied to a tree, and stood roaring, but 



HABITS OF THE LION. 75 

ftfraid to make a spring. On another occasion, one of oiii 
party was \ying sound asleep and unconscious of danger 
between two natives behind a bush at Masbiie ; the fire was 
nearly out at their feet in consequence of all being cona- 
pletely tired out by the fatigues of the previous day : a lion 
came up to within three yards of the fire^ and there com- 
menced roaring instead of making a spring: the fact of 
their riding-ox being tied to the bush was the only reason 
the lion had for not following his instinct and making a 
meal of flesh. He then stood on a knoll three hundred 
yards distant, and roared all night, and continued his 
growling as the party moved off by daylight next morning. 
Nothing that I ever learned of the lion would lead me to 
attribute to it either the ferocious or noble character ascribed 
lO it elsewhtre. It possesses none of the nobility of the 
Newfoundland or St. Bernard dogs. With respect to its 
great strength there can be no doubt. The immense masses 
of muscle around its jaws, shouldcs, and forearms pro- 
claim tremendous force. They would seem, however, to 
be inferior in power to those of the Indian tiger. Most of 
those feats of strength that I have seen performed by lions, 
such as the taking away of an ox, were not carrying, but 
dragging or trailing the carcass along the ground : they 
have sprung on some occasions on to the hind-quarters o\ 
a horse, but no one has ever seen them on the withers oi 
a giraffe. They do not mount on the hind-quarters of an 
eland even, but try ■ to tear him down with their claws. 
Messrs. Oswell and Vardon once saw three lions endeavor- 
ing to drag down a buffalo, and they were unable to do so 
for a time, though he was then mortally wounded by a 
iwc-ounce ball.* 



* This singular emounter, in the words of an eye-witness, happened 
a6 hllows : — 

**j!iJy South African Journal is now before me, and I have got hold of 
the account of the lion and buffalo affair; here it is: — 'loth September, 
1846 Oswell and 1 were riding this afternoon along tlu> banks of tbfl 



7fi HABITS OF THE LION. 

in general the lion seizes the animal he is attacking by the 
flank near the hind-leg, or by the throat below the jaw. It W 
questionable whether he ever attempts to ficize an animal by 
the withers. The flank is the most co'.nmon point of attack, 
and that is the part he begins to feast on first. The nativof 
and lions are very similar in their tastes in the selection ol 
titbits: an eland may be seen disembowelled by a lion so 
completely that he scarcely seems cut up at all. Tho 
bowels and fatty parts form a full meal for even the largest 
lion. The jackal comes sniffing about, and sometimes 
suffers for his temerity by a stroke from the lion's paw 



Limpopo, when a waterbuck started in front of us. I dismounted, and 
was following it through the jungle, wlien three buffaloes got up, ativ* 
after going a little distance, stood still, and the nearest bull turned round 
and looked at me. A ball from the two-ouncer crashed into his shoulder, 
aud they all three made off. Oswcll and I followed as soon as Fhad re- 
'oaded, and when we were in sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him at 
every stride, three lions leaped on the unfortunate brute ; he bellowed 
most lustily as he kept up a kind of running fight, but he was, of course, 
Boon overpowered and pulled down. We had a fine view of the struggle, 
and saw the lions on their hind-legs tearing away with teeth and clawa 
in most ferocious style. We crept up within thirty yards, and, kneeling 
down, blazed away at the lions. My rifle was a single barrel, and I had 
Qo spare gun. One lion fell dead almost on the buffalo ; he had merelj 
time to turn toward us, seize a bush with his teeth, and drop dead with 
the stick in his jaws. The second made off immediately: and the third 
raised his head, coolly looked round for a moment, then went on tearing 
and biting at the carcass as hard as ever. We retired a short distancft 
to load, then again advanced and fired. The lion made off, but a ball 
that he received ought to have stopped him, as it went clean through hit 
shoulder-blade. He was followed up and killed, after having charged 
several times. Both lions were males. It is not often that one bags % 
brace of lions and a bull-buffalo in about ten minutes. It was an exciting 
trdventure. and I shall never forgot it.' 

'• Such, my dear Livingstone, is the plain unvarnished account. Tht 
buffalo had, of course, gone close to where the lions were lying down foi 
the day; and they, seeing him lame and bleeding, thoiight the opporiu 
oity too good a one to be lost Ever yours, 

♦'Frank Vabdwb 



HIS ROAR. 7U 

laying him dead. Wlien gorged, the lion falls fast asleep, and 
is then easily despatched. Hunting a lion with dogs involves 
very little danger compared with hunting the Indian tiger 
because the dogs bring him out of cover and make him stand 
at bay, giving the hunter plenty of time for a good deliberate 
shot. 

Whei-e game is abundant, there you may expect lions m 
proportionately large numbers. They are never seen in 
herds, but six or eight, probably one family, occasionally 
hunt together. One is in much more danger of being run 
over when walking in the streets of London than he is of 
being devoured by lions in Africa, unless engaged in hunt- 
ing the animal. Indeed, nothing that I have seen or hoaid 
about lions would constitute a barrier in the way of men of 
ordinary coura^''e and enterprise. 

The same feeling which has induced the modern painter 
to caricature the lion has led the sentimentalist to consider 
the lion's roar the most terrific of all earthly sounds. We 
hear of the '' majestic roar of the king of beasts." It is. 
indeed, well calculated to inspire fear if you hear it in 
combination with the tremendously loud thunder of that 
country, on a night so pitchy dark that every flash of the 
intensely vivid lightning leaves you with the impression 
of stone-blindness, while the rain pours down so fast that 
your fire goes out, leaving you without the protection of 
even a tree, or the chance of your gun going off. But 
when you are in a comfortable house or wagon, the case iai 
very different, and you hear the roar of the lion without 
any awe or alarm. The silly o&trich makes a noise as loud ; 
yet he never was feared by man. To talk of the majestic 
roar of the lion is mere majestic twaddle. On my men- 
tioning this fact some years ago, the assertion was doubted, 
8C I have beei careful ever since to inquire the opinions 
of Europeans, who have heard both, if they could detect 
any difference between the roar of a lion and that of an 
ostrich; the invariable answer was, that they could not 
when the animal was at any distance. The natives assert 



80 LIONS AND BUFFALOES. 

that they can detect a vdriation between the conimcnco 
ment of the noise of each. There is, it must be admitted, 
considerable difference between the singing noise of a lion 
when full, and his deep, gruff growl when hungry. In 
general the lion's voice seems to come deeper from the 
chest than that of the ostrich; but to this day [ can dis- 
tinguish between them with certainty only by knowirg 
that the ostrich roars by day and the lion by night. 

The African lion is of a, tawny color, like that of some 
mastiffs. The mane in the male is large, and gives the 
idea of great power. In some lions the ends of the hair 
of the mane are black; these go by the name of black- 
manod lions, though as a whole all look of the yellow 
tawny color. At the time of tiie discover}'' of the lake, 
Messrs. Osw^ell and Wilson shot two specimens of another 
variety. One was an old lion, whose teeth were mere 
Btumps, and his claws worn quite blunt ; the other was 
full grown, in the prime of life, w^ith white, perfect teeth : 
both were entirely destiXute of mane. The hons in the 
country near the lake give tongue less than those farther 
■douth. We scarcely ever heard them roar at all. 

The lion has other checks on inordinate increase besides 
man. He seldom attacks full-grown animals; but fro- 
qaently, when a buffalo-calf is caught by him, the cow 
rushes to the rescue, and a toss from her often kills him. 
One we found was killed thus; and on the Leeambye an- 
other, which die".! ziear Seshekc, had all the appearance of 
having received his death-blow from a buffalo. It is ques- 
tionable if a single lion ever attacks a full-grown buffalo. 
The amount of roaring heard at night, on occasions when 
ft buffalo is killed, seems to indicate there are always mojo 
than one lion engaged in the onslaught. 

On the plain, south of Sebituane's ford, a herd o*f buffa- 
loes kept a number of lions from their j^oung by the males 
turning their heads to the enemy. The young and the 
cows were in the rear. One toss from a bull would kih 

the strongest lior. that ever oreatlied 1 have been in^ 
J? 



SEKOMl'S VIEW OF EXTORTIOW. 83 

Formed that in one part of India even the tame buffaloos 
feel their superiority to some wild animals, for they have 
been seen to chase a tiger up the hills, bellowing as if they 
enjoyed the sport. Lions never go near any elephants ex- 
cept the calves, which, when young, are sometimes torr. 
by them ; every living thing retires before the lordly ele- 
phant, yet a full-grown one would be an easier prey than 
the rhiDOceros; the lion rushes off at the mere sight of 
this latter beast. 

When we reached the Bamangwato, the chief, Sekomi, 
was particularly friendly, collected all his people to the 
religious services we held, and explained his reasons for 
compelling some Englishmen to pay him a horse. *' They 
would not sell him any powder, though they had plenty ; 
so he compelled them to give it and the horse for nothing 
He would not deny the extortion to me ; that would be 
* boherehere,' (swindling.)'^ He thus thought extortion 
better than swindling. 1 could not detect any difference 
In the morality of the two transactions; but Sekomi's ideaa 
of honesty are the lowest I have met with in any Bechu- 
ana chief, and this instance is mentioned as the only ap- 
proach to demanding payment for leave to pass that T have 
met with in the south. In all other cases the difficulty haa 
been to get a chief to give us men to show the way, and 
the payment has only been for guides. Englishmen have 
always very properly avoided giving that idea to the native 
mind which we shall hereafter find prove troublesome, that 
payment ought to be made for passage through a country 

January 28. — Passing on to Letloehe, about twenty 
miles beyond the Bamangwato, we found a fine supply of 
water. This is a point of so much interest in that country 
that the first question we ask of passers-by is, • * Have you 
had water V the first inquiry a native puts to a fellow- 
countryman is, ^' Where is the rain?'' and, though they arc 
by no means an untruthful nation, the answer generally i«, 
•' I don't know : there is none : we are killed with hunger 
and by the sun." If news is asked for, they commenoe 



84 MR. GORDON GUMMING. 

With, ^* There is no news; I heard some lies only," and 
then tell all Ihey know. 

This spot was Mr. Gordon Ciimraing's fiirthcst station 
north. Our house at Kolobcng having been quite in tho 
hunting-country, rhinoceros and buffaloes several tiinca 
rushed past, and I was able to shoot the latter twice from 
our own door. We were favored by visits from this famous 
hunter during each of the five vcars of his warfare with 
wild animals. Many English gentlemen following the 
same pursuits paid their guides and assistants so punc- 
tually that in making arrangements for ihcn\ we had to bo 
c-areful that four did not go where two only were wanted: 
thiy knew so well that an Englishman would pay that 
ihey depended implicitly on his word of honor, and not 
only would ihoy go and hunt for five or six months in tho 
i.orth, enduring all the hardships of that trying mode of 
life, Avith little else but meat of game to subsist on, but 
ihey willingly went seven hundred or eight hundred m'lcs 
10 Graham s Town, receiving for wages only a musket 
worth fifteen shlllino;s. 

No one ever deceived them, except one man ; and, as 1 
believed that he was afflicted with a slight degree of tho 
insanity of greediness, I upheld tho honor of the English 
name by paying his debts. As tlie guides of Mr. dimming 
were furnished through my influence, and 'isuallygot somo 
strict charges as to their behavior before parting, looking 
upon me in the ligbt of a father, they always came to give 
me an account of their service, and told most of thoso 
hunting-adventures which have since been given to the 
world, before avc had the pleasure of hcf^ring our friend 
folate them himself by our own fireside. I had thus a tolc- 
rubly good opportunity of testing their accuracy, and 1 
have no hesitation in saying that, for those who love that 
Bort of thing, Mr, Cumming's book conveys a truthful idea 
of South African hunting. Some things in it require ex 
planation, but tho numbers of animals said to have beeii 
met with and killed are by no means improbable, consider' 



SPORTING 85 

ing Iho amount of largo game then in the country Two 
other gentlemen hunting in the same region destroyed iii 
one reason no fewer than seventy-eight rhinoceroses aloue 
Sportsmen^ ho^iever, would not now find an equal number 5 
for, as guns are introduced among the tribes, all these fij5.e 
animals melt away like snow in spring. In the more 
remote districts, where fire-arms have not yet been intro- 
duced, with the single exception of the rhinoceros, the 
game is to be found in numbers much greater than Mr. 
Cumming ever saw. The tsetse is, however, an m^iuper- 
able barrier to hunting with horses there, and Europeans 
can do nothing on foot. The step of the elephant when 
charging the hunter, though apparently not quick, is so 
long that the pace equals the speed of a good horse at a 
canter. A young sportsman, no matter how great among 
pheasants, foxes, and hounds, would do well to pause before 
resolving to brave fever for the excitement of risking such 
a terrific charge ; the scream or trumpeting of this enor- 
mous brute when infuriated is more like what the shriek 
of a French steam-whistle would bo to a man stand in/( on 
the dangerous part of a railroad than any other ea:* thly 
pound : a horse unused to it will sometimes stand shlvtvring 
mstead of taking his rider out of danger. It has hj j^poned 
often that the poor animal's legs do their duty yo badly 
that he falls and causes his rider to be trodden into a 
mummy J or, losing his presence of mind, the rider may 
allow the horse to dash under a tree and crack his cranium 
against a branch. As one charge from an elephant has 
made embryo ^N'imrods bid a final adieu to the chase, inci- 
pient Gordon Cunimings might try their nerves by stand- 
ing on railways till the engines were 'within a few yards 
of them. Hunting elephants on foot would bo not loss 
dangerous,* unless the Ceylon mode of killing them by 



* Since writing the above statement, it has received confirmation ix 
the reported leatb of Mr Walbberg Tvhile bunting elejrhaiits on fopi af 
Lake Ngami. 

8 



86 SCARCITY OF WATER. 

one shot could be followed : it has never been tried m 
Africa. 

Advancing to some, wells beyond Letloclie, at a spot 
Darned Kanne, we found them carefully hedged round by 
the people of a Bakalahari village situated near the spot. 
VYe had then sixty miles of country in front without water, 
and very distressing for the oxen, as it is general!}^ deep 
soft sand. There is one sucking-place, around which were 
congregated great numbers of Bushwomen with their egg- 
shells and reeds. Mathuluane now contained no water, and 
Motlatsa only a small supply; so we sent the oxen across 
the country to the deep well Nkauane, and half were lost 
on the way. When found at last, they had been five whole 
days without water. Yery large numbers of elands were 
met with, as usual, though they seldom can get a sip of 
drink. Many of the plains here have large expanses of 
grass without trees ; but you seldom see a treeless horizon, 



CHAPTEE YIII. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE REACHES THE COUNTRY OE THE MAKOLOLO. 

The Bakalahari, who live at Motlatsa "Wells, have always 
been very friendly to us, and listen attentively to instruc- 
tion conveyed to them in their own tongue. It is, how- 
ever, difficult to give an idea to a European of the little 
effect teaching produces; because no one can realize the 
degradation to which their minds have been sunk by cen- 
turies of barbarism and hard struggling for the necessaries 
of life : like most others, they listen with respect and 
attention; but, when we kneel down and address an 
unseen Being, the position and the act often appear to 
them so ridiculous that they cannot refrain from bursting 
into uncontrollable laughter. After a few services the> 



EFFECTS OF MISSIONARY EFFORTS. SI 

gQt over this tendency. I was once present when a mis- 
doiiary attempted to sing among a wild heathen tribe of 
Bechxianas, who had no music in their composition : the 
e£fect on the risible faculties of the audience was such that 
the tears actually ran down their cheeks. Nearly all their 
thoughts are directed to the supply of their bodily wants j 
and this has been the case with the race for ages. If asked, 
then, what effect the preaching of the gospel has at the com- 
mencement on such individuals, I am unable to tell, except 
that some have confessed long afterward that they then first 
began to pray in secret. Of the effects of a long-continued 
course of instruction there can be no reasonable doubt, as 
mere nominal belief has never been considered sufficient 
proof of conversion by any body of missionaries ; and, after 
the change which has been brought about by this agency, 
we have good reason to hope well for the future : those I 
have myself witnessed behaving in the manner described; 
when kindly treated in sickness, often utter imploring 
words to Jesus, and, I believe, sometimes really do pray to 
him in their afflictions. As that great Eedeemer of the 
guilty seeks to save all he can, we may hope that they 
find mercy through his blood, though little able to appro- 
ciate the sacrifice he made. 

Leaving Motlatsa on the 8th of February, 1853, we 
passed down the Mokoko, which, in the memory of per- 
sons now living, was a flowing stream. 

At jN"chokotsa, the rainy season having this year been 
delayed beyond the usual time, we found during the day 
the thermometer stand at 96° in the coolest possible 
shade. 

We dug out several wells; and, as we had on each occa- 
flion to wait till the water flowed in again, and then allow 
our cattle to feed a day or two and slake their thirst 
thoroughly, as far as that- could be done, before starting, 
our progress was but slow. At Koobe there was such a 
mass of mud in the pond, worked up hj tho wallowing 
rhinoceros to the consistency of moilar, that only by great 



S8 THE BUSHMEN 

labor could we get a space cleared at one side for the watox 
to ooze through and collect in for the oxen. 

At Eapesh we came among our old friends the Bushmen, 
under Horoje. This man, Iloroye, a good specimen cf 
that tribe, and his son Mokantsa, and others, were at least 
aix feet high, and of a darker color than the Bushmen of 
tJJC south. They have always plenty of food and water ; 
or.d, as they frequent the Zouga as often as the game in 
company with which they live, their life is very different 
from that of the inhabitants of the thirsty plains of the 
Kalahari. 

Those among whom wo now were kill many elephants, 
and, when the moon is full, choose that time for the chase, 
on account of its coolness. Hunting this animal is the 
best test of courage this country affords. The Bushmen 
choose the moment succeeding a charge, when the ele- 
phant is out of breath, to run in and give him a stab with 
their long-biaded spears. In this case the uncivilized have 
the advantage over us ; but I believe that, with half their 
training. Englishmen would beat the Bushmen. 

At Maila we spent a Sunday with Kaisa, the head-man 
of a village of Mashona, who had fled from the iron sway 
of Mosilikatse, whose country lies east of this. I wished 
him to take charge of a packet of letters for England, to 
be forwarded when, as is the custom of the Bamangwato, 
the Bechuanas come hither in search of skins and food 
among the Bushmen; but he could not be made to compre- 
hend that there was no damper in the consignment. IIo 
feared the responsibility and guilt if any thing should hap» 
pen to them ; so I had to bid adieu to all hope of letting 
cay family hear of my welfare till I should reach the west 
coast. 

At Unku we came into a tract of country which had 
been visited by refreshing showers long before, and every 
spot was covered with grass run up to seed, and the flowers 
of the forest were in full bloom. Instead of the dreary 
prospect around Koobe and Nchokotsa, we had her© a do 



PARTY ATTACKED BY FEVER. 89 

liglitful scene, — all the ponds full of water, and tlie birds 
wittering joyfully. As the game can now obtain water every- 
where, they become very shy, and cannot be found in their 
accustomed haunts. "^ 

1st March. — The thermometer in the shade generally stood 
at 98^ from 1 to 3 p. m. ; but it sank as low as 65° by 
night; so that the heat was by no means exhausting. At 
the surface of the ground, in the sun, the thermometer 
marked 125°, and three inches below it, 138°. The hand 
cannot be held on the ground, and even the horny soles of 
the feet of the natives must be protected by sandals of 
hide ; yet the ants were busy working on it. The water 
in the ponds was as high as 100° ; but, as water does not 
conduct heat readily downward, deliciouslj'-cool water 
may be obtained by any one -walking into the middle and 
lifting up the water from the bottom to the surface with 
his hands. 

Proceeding to the north, from Kama-karaa, wo entered 

into dense Mohonono bush, which required the constant 

application of the axe by three of our j^arty for tw^o days. 

This bush has fine silvery leaves, and the bark has a sweet 

taste. The elephant, with his usual delicacy of taste, feeds 

much on it. On emerging into the plains beyond, wo found 

u number of Bushmen, who afterward proved very service- 

ablo. The rains had been copious; but now great numbers 

of pools were drying up. Lotus-plants abounded in them, 

and a low, sweet-scented plant covered their banks. 

Bi'cezes came occasionally to us from these drying-up 

pf^ols; but the pleasant odor they carried caused sneezing 

b\ both myself and people; and on the 10th of March (when 

rj lat. 19° 16' 11" S., long. 24° 24' E.) wo were brought 

to a stand by four of the party being seized with fever. 

1 had seen this disease before, but did not at once recognise 

it as the African fever : I imagined it w^as only a bilious 

attack arising from full feeding on flesh; for, the largo 

gan'e having been very abundant, wo always had a good 

supply. But, instead of the first sufferers recovering sriocL, 

8* 



90 GRAPES. 

every man of iar party was in a few days laid low, ox'ept 
a Bakwain and myself. He managed the oxen, while J 
attended. to the wants of the patients and went out eeca- 
sionally with the Bushmen to get a zebra or buffalo, so as 
to induce them to remain with us. 

Here for the first time I had leisure to follow the instmc- 
vions of my kind teacher, Mr. Maclear, and calculated sevQ- 
ral hmgitudes from lunar distances. The hearty manner 
n\ which that eminent astronomer and frank, friendl}^ man 
had promised to aid me in calculating and verifying my 
work conduced more than any thing else to inspire me 
with perseverance in making astronomical observationfl 
throughout the journey. 

We wished to avoid the tsetse of our former path, so 
kept a course on the magnetic meridan from Lurilopepe. 
The necessity of making a new path much increased our 
toil. We were, however, rewarded in lat. 18° with a sight 
we had not enjoyed the year before, namely, large patches 
ol* gra2)e-bearing vines. There they stood before my eyes; 
out the sight was so entirely unexpected that I stood some 
time gazing at the clusters of grapes with which they were 
loaded, with no more thought of plucking than if I had 
been beholding them in a dream. The Bushmen know 
and eat them j but they are not well flavored, on account 
of the great astringency of the seeds, which are in shape 
and size like split peas. The elephants are fond of the 
fruit, plant, and root alike. 

The forest, through which we were slowly toiling, daily 
became more dense, and we were kept almost constantly 
at work with the axe ; there was much more leafiness in 
the trees here than farther south. The leaves are chiefly 
of the pinnate and bi-pinnate forms, and are exceedingly 
beautiful when seen against the sky : a great variety of 
the papilionaceous familj^ grow in this part of the country. 

Fleming had until this time always assisted to drive hia 
uwn wagon, but about the end of March he knocked up, as 
well as his people As T cciu](] not dr^ve two wagons, J 



Bushmen's mode of lion-huntino. 91 

sliared with bim the remaining water, half a Ci.skful, and 
went on, with the intention of coming back for bim as 
soon as we should reach the next pool. Heavy rain now 
commenced; I was employed the whole day in cutting down 
trees, and every stroke of the axe brought down a thick 
shower on my back, which in the hard work was very 
refreshing, as the water found its way down into my shoes 
In the evening we met some Bushmen, who volunteered 
to show us a pool ; and, having unyoked, I walked some 
miles in search of it. As it became dark they showed 
their politeness — a quality which is by no means confined 
entirely to the civilized — by walking in front, breaking the 
branches which hung across the path, and pointing out the 
fallen trees. On returning to the wagon, we found that 
being left alone had brought out some of Fleming's energy, 
for he had managed to come up. 

As the water in this pond dried up, we were soon 
obliged to move again. One of the Bushmen took out his 
dice, and, after throwing them, said that God told him to 
go home. He threw again, in order to show me the com- 
mand, but the opposite result followed; so he remained 
and was useful, for we lost the oxen again by a lion driving 
them off to a very great distance. The lions here are not 
often heard. They seem to have a wholesome dread of the 
Bushmen, who, when they observe evidence of a lion's 
having made a full meal, follow up his spoor so quietly 
that his slumbers are not disturbed. One discharges a 
poisoned arrow from a distance of only a few feet, while 
his companion simultaneously throws his skin cloak on the 
beast's head. The sudden surprise makes the lion lose his 
presence of mind, and he bounds away in the greatest con- 
fusion and terror. Our friends here showed me the poison 
which they use on these occasions. It is the entrails 
of a caterpillar called N'gwa, half an inch long. They 
squeeze out these, and place them all around the bottom 
of the barb, and allow the poison to dry in the sun. They 
are very careful in cleaning their nails after working with 



92 THE SANSnUREH 

it, as a small portion introduced into a scratch acts like 
morbid matter ir. dissection-wounds. Tlio agony is bo 
£^real that tlic person cuts himself, calls for liis mother's 
breast as if he were returned in idea to his childhood agaio, 
or flies from human habitations a raging maniac. The 
etfccts on the lion are equally terrible, lie is heard moan- 
iif^ .n distress, and becomes furious, biting the trees and 
gi')und in rage. 

A.S the Bushmen have the reputation of curing the 
wounds of this poison, I asked how this was eftected. 
They said tiiat they administer the caterpillar itself in 
combination with fat; they also rub fat into the wound, 
saying that '-the N'gwa w^ants fat, and, when it does not 
find it in the body, kills the man: we give it what it 
wants, and it is content :'' a reason which will commend 
itself to the enlightened among ourselves. 

JS'one of the men of our party had died, but two seemed 
unlikely to recover; and Kibopechoe, my willing Mok\\:ain, 
at last became troubled with boils, and then got all the 
symptoms of fever. As he lay down, the others began to 
move about, and complained of weakness only. Believing 
that frequent change of place was conducive to their 
recovery, we moved along as much as we could, and come 
to the hill N'gwa, (lat. 18° 27' 20'' S., long. 24° 13' 36" E.) 
T!iis being the only hill we had seen since leaving Bamang- 
wato, we felt inclined to take off our hats to it. It ib 
throe or four hundred feet high, and covered with trees. 

Our Bushmen wished to leave us, and, as there was no 
use in trying to thwart these independent gentlemen, I 
paid them, and allowed them to go. The payment, how-. 
C'^er, acted as a charm on some strangers who happenea 
to be present, and induced them to volunteer their aid. 

AVe at last came to the Sanshureh, which presented an 
impassable barrier; so we drew up under a magnificent 
baobab-tree, (lat. 18° 4' 27" S., long. 24° 6' 20" E.,) and 
resolved'^to explore the river for a ford. The great quan- 
ticy of water we had passed thjrough was part of the 



BANKS OF THE CHOBE. 9b 

annual inundation of the Chobe; and this, which appeared 
a large, deep river, filled in many parts with reeds, and 
having hippopotami in it, is only one of the branches bj 
which it sends its superabundant water to the southeast. 

AVe made so man^^ attempts to get over the Sanshureh; 
both to the Avest and cast of the Avagon, in the hope of 
reaching some of the Makololo on the Chobe, that my 
Bushmen friends became quite fired of the work. By 
aieans of ])rcsents I got them to remain some days; but ul 
last they slipped away by night, and I was fain to take 
one of the strongest of my still weak companions and ci'oss 
the river in a pontoon, the gift of Captains (Jodrington and 
Webb. We each carried some provisions and a blanket, 
and penetrated about twenty miles to the westward, in 
the hope of striking the Chobe. It Avas much nearer to us 
in a northerly' direction, but this Ave did not then know. 
The plain, over Avhich Ave splashed the Avliole of the first 
day, Avas covered Avith Avatcr ankle deep, and thick grass 
«vhich reached abo\'e the knees. In the evening Ave came 
to an immense wall of reeds, six or eight feet high, Avithout 
any opening admitting of a passage. When avc tried to 
enter, the Avater always became so deep that Ave Averc fain 
to desist. We concluded that we had come to the banks 
of the river avc Avere in search of; so Ave directed our course 
to sojne trees Avhich appeared in the south, in order to get 
a bed and a view of the adjacent localit}^ Having shot a 
lechc. and made a glorious fire, avc got a good ci p of tea 
and had a comfortable night. 

]S'ext morning, by climbing the highest trees, avc could 
sec a fine large sheet of Avater, but surrounded on all sides 
oy the same impenetrable belt of reeds. This is the broad 
part of the river Chobe, and is called Zabesa. Two tree- 
covered islands seemed to be much nearer to the Avatcr 
than the snore on wiiich avc were; so avc made an attempt 
to gc-t to them first. It Avas not the reeds alone avc had 
to pass through; a peculiar serrated grass, Avhich at certain 
*nglea cut tho hands like a razor, was mingled with thu 



94 THE CHOSE. 

reed, and the climbing convolvulus, with stalks which foU 
as strong as whipcord, bound the mass together. Wo felt 
like pygmies in it, and often the only way we could get 
on was by both of us leaning against a part and bending 
it down till we could stand upon it. The perspiration 
streamed off our bodies, and as the sun rose high, there 
being no ventilation among the reeds, the heat was stifling, 
and the water, which was up to the knees, felt agreeably 
refreshing. After some hours' toil we reached one of the 
islands. Here we met an old friend, the bramble-bush. 
My strong moleskins were quite worn through at the knees, 
and the leather trousers of my companion were torn and 
nis legs bleeding. Tearing my hiandkerchief in two, I tied 
the pieces round my knees, and then encountered another 
difficulty. We were stiir forty or fifty yards from the clear 
water, but now we were opposed by great masses of papy- 
rus, which are like palms in miniature, eight or ten feet 
high, and an inch and a half in diameter. These were 
laced together by twining convolvulus so strongly that the 
weight of both of us could not make way into the clear 
water. At last we fortunately found a passage prepared 
by a hippopotamus. Eager as soon as we reached the 
island to look along the vista to clear water, I stepped in 
and found it took me at once up to the ^eck. 

JReturning nearly worn out, we proceeded up the bank 
of the Chobe till we came to the point of departure of the 
branch Sanshureh ; we then went in the opposite direction, 
or down the Chobe, though from the highest trees we could 
see nothing but one vast expanse of reed, with here and 
there a tree on the islands. This was a hard day's work j 
and, when we came to a deserted Bayeiye hut on an ant- 
hill, not a bit of wood or aoy thing else could be got foi a 
fire except the grass and sticks of the dwelling itself. 1 
dreaded the " Tampans, " so common in all old huts ; but 
outside of it we had thousands of mosquitos, and cold 
dew began to be deposited, so we were fain to crawl bo»^ 
neath its shelter. 



ARRIVAL AT MOKEMl. 96 

We were close to the reeds, and could listen to the strange 
Bounds which are often heard there. By day I had seen 
water-snakes putting up their heads and swimming about 
There were great numbers of otters, {Lutra inu7iguis, F. 
Cuvier,) which have made little spoors all over the plains 
m search of the fishes, among the tall grass of these flooded 
prairies; curious birds, too, jerked and wriggled among 
these reedy masses, and we heard human-like voices and 
unearthly sounds, with splash, guggle, jupp, as if rare fun 
were going on in their uncouth haunts. After a damp, 
cold night, we set to, early in the morning, at our work of 
exploring again, but left the pontoon in order to lighten 
our labor. The ant-hills are here very high, some thirty 
feet, and of a base so broad that trees grow on them ; while 
the lands, annually flooded, bear nothing but grass. From 
one of these ant-hills we discovered an inlet to the Chobe ; 
and, having gone back for the pontoon, we launched our- 
selves on a deep river, here from eighty to one hundred 
yards wide. I gave my companion strict injunctions to 
stick by the pontoon in case a hippopotamus should look 
at us ; nor was this caution unnecessary, for one came up 
at our side and made a desperate plunge off. AYe had 
passed over him. The wave he made caused the pontoon 
to glide quickly away from him. 

We paddled on from mid-day till sunset. There was 
nothing but a wall of reed on each bank, and we saw every 
prospect of spending a supperless night in our float ; but, 
just as the short twilight of these parts was commencing, -, 
we perceived on the north bank the village of Moremi, one 
of the Makololo, whose acquaintance I had made on our 
foimer visit, and who was now located on the island Ma. 
honta, (lat. 17° 58' S., long. 24° 6' E.) The villagers looked 
as we may suppose people do who see a ghost, and in their 
fi.gurative way of speaking said, " He has dropped among 
us from the clouds, yet came riding on the back of a hip- 
popotamus ! We Makololo thought no one could cross tho 



96 DEPARTURE FROM EINYANTI. 

Cliobe without our knowledge, but here he drops among us 
like a bird." 

Next day we returned in canoes across the flooded lands, 
and found that, in our absence, the men had allowed the 
cattle to wander into a very small patch of wood to the west 
containing the tsetse ; this carelessness cost me ten fine large 
oxen. After remaining a few days, some of the head-men of 
the JNIakololo came down from Linyanti, w'ith a large party 
of Barotse, to take us across the river. This they did in fine 
style, swimming and diving among the oxen more like alliga- 
tors than men, and taking the wagons to pieces and carrying 
them across on a number of canoes lashed together. We 
were now among friends; so, going about thirty miles to the 
north, in order to avoid the still flooded lands on the north 
of the Chobe, we turned westward toward Linyanti, (lat. 18^ 
17' 20" S., long. 23^ 50' 9" E.,) where we arrived on the 23d 
of jNIay, 1853. This is the capital town of the Makololo, and 
oniy a sliort distance from our wagon-stand of 1851, (lat. 
18^ 20' S., long. 73^ 50' E.) 



CHAPTER IX. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE LABORS AS A MISSIONARY AMONG THE 

MxiKOLOLO. 

The whole population of Linyanti, numbering between 
six and seven thousand souls, turned out eii masse to see the 
wagons in motion. They had never witnessed the i)henome- 
non before, we having on the former occasion departed by 
night. Sekeletu, now in power, received us in what is con- 
sidered royal style, setting before us a great number of pots 
of boyaloa, the beer of the country. These were brought by^ 
women, and jeach bearer takes a good draught of the beer 
when she sets it down, by way of " tasting," to show that there 
is no poison. 



THE COURT heuald. 9" 

TLc court herald, an old man who occupied the post nlso 
it Sobituanc's time, stood up, and after some antics, such 
ap leaping, and shouting at the top of his voice, roared out 
some adulatory sentences, as, ^^ Don't I sec the ^Yhite man? 
Don't I see the comrade of Sebituane? Don't I see tho 
fathcj of Sckeletu V — " We want sleep." — " Give your sen 
sleep, my lord," &c. &c. The perquisites of this man are 
the heads of all the cattle slaughtered by the chief, and he 
even takes a share of the tribute before it is distributed 
and taken out of the kotla. He is expected to utter all the 
proclamations, call assemblies, keep the kotla clean, and 
the fire burning every evening, and when a person is 
executed in public he drags away the body. 

I found Sckeletu a young man of eighteen years of ago, 
of that dark yellow or coffee-and-milk color of which the 
Biakololo are so proud, because it distinguishes them 
considerably from the black tribes on the rivers. He is 
about five feet seven in height, and neither so good-looking 
nor of so much ability as his father was, but is e^^ually 
friendly to the English. Sebituane installed his d tughter 
Mamochisane into the chieftainship long before I.js death, 
but, with all his acuteness, the idea of her havmg a hus- 
band who should not be her lord did not seem to enter his 
mind. He wished to make her his successor, probabl}^ in 
imitation of some of the negro tribes with whom he had 
come into contact; but, being of the Bechuana race, he 
could not look upon the husband except as the woman's 
lord; so he told her all tho men were hers, — she might 
take any one, but ought to keep none. In fact, he thought 
Bhv might do with the men what he could do with the 
women; but these men had other wives; and, according 
to a saying in the country, " the tongues of women can- 
not be governed," they mad 3 her miserable by their re- 
mai ks. One man whom she chose was even called her wife, 
and her son the child of Mamochisane's wife; but the ar- 
rangement was so distasteful to Mamochisane herself that, 
as soon as Sebituane died, she said she never would consent 
U 9 



98 BEKELEXr BECOMES CHIEFTAIN 

to govern the Makololo so long as she had a brother living 
Sekeletu, being afraid of another member of the family, 
Mpepe, who had pretensions to the chieftainship, urged hia 
liister strongly to remain as she had always been, and 
allow him to support her authority by leading the Mako- 
lolo when they went forth to war. Three days were spent 
in public discussion on the point. Mpepe insinuated that 
Sekeletu was not the lawful son of Sebituane, on account 
of his mother having been the wife of another chief befcre 
her marriage with Sebituane; Mamochisane, however, 
upheld Sekeletu's claims, and at last stood up in the as- 
sembly and addressed him with a womanly gush of tears : 
— " I have been a chief only because my father wished it. 
I always would have preferred to be married and have a 
family like other women. You, Sekeletu, must be chief, 
and build up jour father's house." This was a death-blow 
to the hopes of Mpepe, who was soon after speared for an 
attempt to assassinate Sekeletu. 

Soon after our arrival at Linyanti, Sekeletu took me 
aside, and pressed me to mention those things I liked best 
«nd hoped to get from him. Any thing, either in or out 
of his town, should be freely given if I would only men- 
tion it. 1 explained to him that my object was to elevate 
him and his people to be Christians; but he replied he did 
not wish to learn to read the Book, for he was afraid " it 
might change his heart, and make him content with only 
one wife, like Sechele." It was of little use to urge that 
the change of heart implied a contentment with one wife 
equal to his present complacency in polj^gamy. Such a 
preference after the change of mind could not now be 
understood by him any more than the real, unmistakable 
pleasure of religious services can by those who have not 
experienced what is known by the term the " new heart." 
I assured him that nothing was expected but by his own 
/oluntary decision. " No, no ; he wanted always to have 
Ovo wives at least " I liked the frankncFs of Sekeletu, for 



PUBLIC RELIGIOUS SERVICE 99 

nothing is so woarying to the spirit as talking to those 
who agree with every thing advanced. 

At our publ'C religious services in the kotla, the Mako 
Iclo women always behaved with decorum from the first, 
except at the conclusion of the prayer. When all knelt 
down, many of those who had children, in following the 
example of the rest, bent over their little ones : the chil- 
dren, in terror of being crushed to death, set up a simul- 
taneous yel], which so tickled the whole assembly there 
was often a subdued titter, to be turned into a hearty 
laugh as soon as they heard Amen. 

The numbers who attended at the summons of the 
herald, who acted as beadle, were often from five to seven 
hundred. The service consisted of reading a small portion 
of the Bible and giving an explanatory address, usually 
short enough to prevent weariness or want of attention. 
So long as we continue to hold services in the kotla, the as- 
sociations of the place are unfavorable to solemnity; hence 
it IS always desirable to have a place of worship as soon tm 
possible ; and it is of importance, too, to treat such place 
with reverence, as an aid to secure that serious attention 
which religious subjects demand. This will appear more 
evident when it is recollected that, in the very spot whero 
we had been engaged in acts of devotion, half an hour 
afber a dance would be got up; and these habits cannot be 
tit first opposed without the appearance of assuming too 
much authority over them. It is always unwise to hurt 
their feelings of independence. 

To give an idea of the routine followed for months tch 
gcther, on other days as well as on Sundays, I may adveiii 
fco my habit of treating the sick for complaints whicti 
seemed to surmount the skill of their own doctors. I re- 
/rained from going to any one unless his own doctor 
wished it or had given up the case. This led to my 
having a selection of the severer caseB only, and prevented 
the doctors' being offended at my taking their practice out 
of their hands. When attacked by fever myself, and wish 



100 TEACHING THE MAKOLOLC TO READ. 

ing to ascertain what their practices were, I could safely 
intrust myself in their hands, on account of their well- 
known friendly feelings. 

I proposed to teach the Makololo to read ; but, for the 
reasons mentioned, Sekeletu at first declined : after some 
weeks, however, Motibe, his father-in-law, and some others^ 
determined to brave the mysterious book. To all who 
have not acquired it, the knowledge of letters is quite 
unfathomable ; there is naught like it within the compass 
of their observation ; and we have no comparison with 
any thing except pictures, to aid them in comprehending 
the idea of signs of words. It seems to them supernatural 
that we see in a book things taking place or having oc- 
curred at a distance. No amount of explanation conveys 
the idea unless they learn to read. Machinery is equally 
inexplicable, and money nearly as much so until they see 
it in actual use. They are familiar with barter alone; and 
in the centre of the country, where gold is totally un- 
known, if a button and sovereign were left to their choice, 
they would prefer the former on account of its having an 
eye. 

In beginning to learn, Motibe seemed to himself in the 
position of the doctor, who was obliged to drink his potion 
before the patient, to show that it contained nothing detri- 
mental ; after he had mastered the alphabet, and reported 
the thing so far safe, Sekeletu and his young companions 
came forward to try for themselves. He must have re- 
solved to watch the effects of the book against his views 
on polygamy, and abstain whenever he perceived any ten- 
dency, in reading it, toward enforcing him to put his wives 
away A nunjber of men learned the alphabet in a short 
time, anl were set to teach others, but before much prO' 
gi*ess could be made I was on my way to Loanda. 

As I had declined to name any thing as a present from 
Sekeletu, except a canoe to take me up the river, he brought 
ten fine elephants' tusks and laid them down beside my 
wagon. He would take no denial, though I told him J 



SEKELETU'S PRESENT. 101 

flbould prefer to see him trading with Fleming, a man of 
color from the West Indies, who had come for the purpose 
I had, during the eleven years of my previous course, 
invariably abstained from taking presents of ivory, from an 
idea that a religious instructor degraded himself by accept* 
ing gifts from those whose spiritual welfare he professed 
fco seek. My precedence of all traders in the line of dis- 
covery put me often in the way of very handsome offers ; 
but I alwaj^s advised tne donors to sell their ivory to 
traders, who would be sure to follow, and when at some 
future time they had become rich by barter they might 
remember me or my children. When Lake Ngami was 
discovered, I might h we refused permistsion to a trader 
who accompanied us; but when he applied for leave to 
form part of our company, knowing that Mr. Oswcli 
would no more trade than myself, and that the people of 
the lake would be disappointed if they could not dispose 
of their ivory, I willingly granted a sanction, without 
which his people would not at that time have ventured so 
far. This was surely preferring the interest of another to 
my own. The return I got for this was a notice in one 
of the Cape papers that this " man was the true discoverei 
of the lake V 

The conclusion I had come to was that it is quite lawful, 
though perhaps not expedient, for missionaries to trade; 
but barter is the only means by which a missionary in the 
interior can pay his way, as money has no value. In all 
the journeys I had previously undertaken for wider diffu- 
Bion of the gospel, the extra expenses were defrayed from 
my salary of £100 per annum. This sum is sufficient to 
enable a missionary to live in the interior of South Africa, 
uupposing ho has a garden capable of yielding com and 
vegetables ; but should ho not, and still consider that six 
or eight months cannot lawfully bo spent simply in getting 
goods at a lower price than they can bo had from itinerant 
traders, the sum mentioned is barely sufficient for the 
poorest fare and plainest apparel. As we never felt our* 



102 PRESENTS AND TRADING. 

selves jv.L<5tified in making journeys to the colony for th<^ 
sake of securing bargains, the most frugal living was ne- 
cessary to enable us to be a little charitable to others; but 
ivhen to this were added extra travelling-expenses, tho 
grants of an increasing family, and liberal gifts to chiefs, it 
was difficult to make both ends meet. The pleasure of 
missionary labor would be enhanced if one could devote 
his life to the heathen without drawing a saiary from a 
society at all. The luxury of doing good from one's own 
private resources, without appearing to either natives or 
Europeans to be making a gain of it, is far preferable, and 
an object worthy the ambition of the rich. But few men 
of fortune, however, now devote themselves to Christian 
missions, as of old. Presents were always given to the 
chiefs whom we visited, and nothing accepted in return; 
but when Sebituane (in 1851) offered some ivory, I took 
it^ and was able by its sale to present his son with a num- 
ber of really useful articles of a higher value than I had 
ever been able to give before to any chief. In doing this, 
of course, I appeared to trade, but, feeling I had a right to 
do so, I felt perfectly easy in my mind ; and, as I still held 
the view of the inexpediency of combining tho two profes- 
sions, I was glad of the proposal of one of the most honor- 
able merchants of Cape Town, Mr. H. E. Euthcrford, that 
he should risk a sum of money in Fleming's hands for the 
purpose of attempting to develop a trade with the Mako- 
lolo. It was to this man I suggested Sekeletu should sell 
the tusks which he had presented for my acceptance ; but 
the chief refused to take them back from me. The goods 
which Fleming had brought were ill adapted for the use 
of the natives, but he got a pretty good load of ivory in 
exchange ; and though it was nis first attempt at trading, 
and the distance travelled over made the expenses enor« 
moQS, he was not a loser by the trip. Other traders fol- 
lowed, w^ho demanded 90 lbs. of ivory for a musket. The 
Makololo, knowing nothing of steelyards, but supposing 
that they were meant to cheat them^ declined to trade 



PRESENTS TO SEBLELETU. 103 

except b^ exchanging one bull and one cow elephant's 
tusk for each gun. This would average 70 lbs. of ivory, 
which sells at the Cape for 55. per pound, for a second- 
hand musket worth 10s. 1, being sixty miles distant, did 
not witness this attempt at barter, but, anxious to enable 
my countrymen to drive a brisk trade, told the Makololo 
to sell my ten tusks on their own account for whatever 
they would bring. Seventy tusks were for sale, but, the 
parties not understanding each other's talk, no trade was 
established; and when I passed the spot some time after- 
ward I found that the whole of that ivory had been de- 
stroyed by an accidental fire, which broke out in the village 
when all the people were absent. Success in trade is as 
much dependent on knowledge of the language as success 
.n travelling. 

I had brought with me as presents an improved breed 
of goats, fowls, and a pair of cats. A superior bull was 
bought, also as a gift to Sekeletu; but I was compelled to 
leave it on account of its having become foot-sore. As the 
Makololo are very fond of improving the breed of their 
domestic animals, they were much pleased with my selec- 
tion. I endeavored to bring the bull, in performance of a 
promise made to Sebituane before he died. Admiring a 
calf which we had with us, he proposed to give me a cow for 
it, which in the native estimation was offering thr^e tim.C8 
its value. I presented it to him at once, and promised to 
bring him another and a better one. Sekeletu was much, 
gratified by my attempt to keep my word given to his 
father. 



104 THE PEVEB. 



CHAPTEK X 

SICKNESS OF DR. LLVINGSTONE — ACCOUNT OF SEKELEIU AND 

HIS SUBJECTS. 

On the 3Cih of May 1 was seized with fever, for tne first 
time. We reached the town of Linyanti on the 2.3d; and, 
AS my habits were suddenly changed from great exertion to 
comparative inactivity, at the commencement of the cold 
oeason 1 suffered from a severe attack of stoppage of the 
secretions, closely resembling a common cold. Warm baths 
and drinks relieved me, and I had no idea but that I was 
now recovering from the effects of a chill jxot bv leaving 
the warm wagon in the evening in order to conduct family 
worship at m}'- people's fire. But on the 2d of June a 
relapse showed to the Makololo, who knew the complaint, 
that my indisposition was no other than the fever, with 
which I have since made a more intimate acquaintance. 
Cold east winds prevail at this time; and as they come 
over the extensive fiats inundated by the Chobe, as well as 
many other districts where pools of rain-water arc now 
drying up, they may be supposed to be loaded with mala- 
ria and watery vapor, and many cases of fever follow. The 
usual symptoms of stopped secretion arc manifested, — 
shivering and a feeling of coldness, though the skin ia 
quite hot to the touch of another. The heat in the axillae, 
over the heart and region of the stomach, was in my caso 
100^, but along the spine and at the nape of the neck 103*^. 
The internal processes were all, with the exception of tho 
kidneys and liver, stopped; the latter, in its efforts to free 
the blood of noxious particles, often secretes enormous 
quantities of bile. There were pains along the spine, and 
fiontal headache. Anxious to ascertain whether the natives 
possessed the knowledge of any remedy of Avhich we were 
Ignorant, I requested the assistance of one of Sckelctu'3 
doctors He put some roots mto a pot with water, and, 



NATIVE REMEDIES. 105 

When it was boiling, placed it on a spot beneath a blanket 
thrown around both me and it. This produced no im- 
mediate effect : he then got a small bundle of different 
kinds of medicinal woods, and, burning them in a potsherd 
nearly to ashes, used the smoke and hot vapor arising from 
them as an auxiliary to the other in causing diaphoresis. 
I fondly hoped that they had a more potent remedy than 
our own medicines afford; but after being stewed in their 
vapor-baths, smoked like a red herring over green twigs, 
and charmed secundum artem, I concluded that I could cure 
the fever more quickly than they can. If we employ a wet 
sheet and a jnild aperient in combination with quinine, in 
addition to the native remedies, they are an important aid 
in curing the fever, as they seem to have the same stimu- 
lating effects on the alimentary canal as these means have 
on the external surface. Purgatives, g(*neral bleeding, or 
indeed any violent remedies, are injurious; and the ap- 
pearance of a herpetic eruption near the mouth is regarded 
as an evidence that no internal oro;an is in danf:rer. There 
is a good deal in not '^giving in" to this disease. He who 
is low-spirited, and apt to despond at every attack, will die 
sooner than the man who is not of such a melancholic nature. 
The Makololo had made a garden and planted maize for 
me, that, as they remarked when I was parting with them 
to proceed to the Cape, I might have food to eat when I 
returned, as well as other people. The maize was now 
pounded by the women into fine meal. This they do in 
large wooden mortars,»the counterpart of which may bo 
seen depicted on the Egyptian monuments. Sekcletn added 
to this good supply of meal ten or twelve jars of honey, 
each of which contained about two gallons. Liberal sup* 
plies of groundnuts were also furnished every time tho 
tributary tribes brought their dues to Linyanti, and an ox 
was given for slaughter every week or two. Sckclctu also 
appropriated two cows to be milked for us evcr}^ morning 
and evening. This was in accordance with the acknow 
lodged rule throughout tho country, that the chief should 



106 EXTENSIVE CULTIVATION OF LAND. 

feed all Ihc strangers who come on any special business to 
him and lake up their abode in his kotla. 

The Makololo cultivate a large extent of land around 
their villages. Those of them who arc real Basutos still 
retain the habits of that tribe, and may be seen going oul 
with their wives with their hoes in hand, — a state of things 
never witnessed at Kolobeng, or among any other Be- 
chuana or Caffre tribe. The great chief Mosliesh affords 
an example to his people annually, by not only taking the hoe 
m hand, but working hard with it on certain public occasions. 
His Basutos arc of the same family with the Makololo to 
whom I refer. The younger Makololo, who have been 
accustomed from their infancy to lord it over the conquered 
Makalaka, have unfortunately no desire to imitate the 
agricultural tastes of their fathers, and expect their sub- 
jects to perform all the manual labor. They are the aris- 
tocracy of the country, and once possessed almost unlimited 
power over their vassals. Their privileges were, however, 
much abridged by Sebituane himself. 

The tribes which Sebitnano subjected in this great 
country pass by the general name of Makalaka. The Ma- 
I'ololo were composed of a great number of other tribes, 
as well as thcs<^ central negroes. The nucleus of the whole 
were Basuto, who came with Sebituane from a compara- 
tively cold an 1 hilly region in the south. When he con- 
quered various tribes of the Bechuanas, as Bakwains, 
Bangwaketze, Bamangwato, Batauana, &c., he incorpo- 
rated the young of these tribes into'his own. Great mor- 
tality by fever having taken place in the original stock, he 
wisely adopted the same plan of absorption on a large scale 
with the Makalaka. So we found liim with even the sons 
of the chiefs of the Barotso closely attached to his person j 
and they say to this day, if any thing else but natural 
death had assailed their father, every one of them would 
have laid down his life in his defence. One reason for their 
strong affection was their emancipation by the decree of 
Sebituane, ^^all are children of the chief." 



WARLIKE DEMONSTRATION. 107 

Sekoletu receives tribute from a great number of tribes 
in corn or dura, groundnuts, hoes, spears, honey, canoes, 
paddles, wooden vessels, tobacco, mutokuane, (^Cannabis sa- 
liva,') various wild fruits, (dried,) prepared skins, and ivory. 
When these articles are brought into the kotla, Sekeletu 
has the honor of dividing them among the loungers who 
usually congregate there. A omall portion onl}^ is reserved 
for himself. The ivory belongs nominally to him too, but 
this is simply a way of making a fair distribution of the 
profits. The chief sells it only with the approbation of his 
eounsellors, and the proceeds are distributed in open day 
among the people as before. He has the choice of every 
thing; but, if he is not more liberal to others than to him- 
self, he loses in popularity. I have known instances in this 
and other tribes in which individuals aggrieved, because 
they had been overlooked, fled to other chiefs. One discon- 
tented person, having fied to Lechulatebe, was encouraged 
to go to a village of the Bapalleng, on the river Cho or Tso 
and abstracted the tribute of ivory thence which ought to 
have come to Sekeletu. This theft enraged the whole oi 
the Makololo, because they all felt it to be a personal loss 
Some of Lechulatebe's people having come on a visit to 
Linyanti, a demonstration was made, in which about five 
hundred Makololo, armed, went through a mimic fight ; the 
principal warriors pointed their spears toward the lake 
where Lechulatebe lives, and every thrust in that direction 
was answered by all with the shout, '^ IIoo V while every 
stab on the ground drew out a simultaneous " Huzz !" On 
these occasions all capable of bearing arms, even the old, 
must turn out at the call. In the time of Sebituane, any 
one remaining in his house was searched for and killed 
without mercy. 

This offence of Lechulatebe was aggravated by repeti- 
tion, and by a song sung in his town accompanying Iho 
dances, which manifested joy at the death of Sebituane. 
He had enjoined his people to live in peace with those at 
the lake, and Sekeletu felt disposed to follow his advico; 



108 LECnULATEBE'S PROVOCATIONS 

bat Lechulatobe had now got possession of fire-arras, and 
considered himself more than a match for the Makololo. 
His father had been dispossessed of many cattle by ScsbU 
tuane; and, as forgiveness is not considered among tha 
virtues by the heathen, Lcchulatebe thought he had a 
right to recover what he could. As I had a good deal of 
infinonce with the Makololo, I persuaded them that, before 
they could have peace, they must resolve to give the same 
blessing to others, and they never could do that without 
forgiving and forgetting ancient feuds. It is hard to mako 
them feel that shedding of human blood is a great crime: 
they must be conscious that it is wrong, but, having been 
accustomed to bloodshed from infancy, they are remarkably 
/iallous to the enormity of the crime of destroying human 
iife. 

I sent a message at the same time to Lechulatebe, advising 
him to give up the course he had adopted, and especially 
the song; because, though Sebituane was dead, the arms 
<vith which he had fought were still alive and strong. 

Sekeletu, in order to follow up his father's instructionia 
and promote peace, sent ten cows to Lechulatebe to be ex- 
changed for sheep; these animals thrive well in a bushy 
country like that around the lake, but will scarcely live in 
the flat prairies between the network of Avaters north of 
the Chobe. The men who tooJi the cows carried a number 
of hoes to purchase goats besides. Lechulatebe took the 
cows and sent back an equal number of sheep. Now, ac- 
cording to the relative value of sheep and cows in these 
parts, he ought to have sent sixty or seventy. 

One of the men who had hoes was trying to purchase in 
a village without formal leave from Lechulatebe; this chief 
punished him by making him sit some hours on the broiling 
hot sand, (at least 130°.) This further offence put a stop to 
amicable relations between the two tribes altogether. It 
was a case in which a very small tribe, commanded by a 
weak and foolish chief, had got possesoion of fire-arms, and 
felt conscious of ability to cope with a numerous and war- 



ANT-niLLS. 109 

Iiko race. Such cases arc the only ones in which the pos» 
session of fire-arms does evil. The universal effect of the dif- 
fusion of the more potent instruments of warfare in Africa 
i£ the same as among ourselves. Fire-arms render wars less 
frequent and less bloody. It is indeed exceedingly rare to 
hear of two tribes having guns going to war with each other; 
and, as nearly all the feuds, in the south at least, have been 
about cattle, the risk which must be incurred from long 
ehots generally proves a preventive to the foray. 

The Makololo were prevailed upon to keej) the peace 
during my residence with them, but it was easy to per- 
ceive that public opinion was against sparing a tribe of 
Dechuanas for whom the Makololo entertained the most 
Sovereign contempt. The young men would remark, 
"Lechulatebe is herding our cows for us; let us only go, 
\^o shall 4ift' the price of them in sheep," &c. 



CHAPTEE XI. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE LEAVES LINYANTI. 

Having waited a month at Linyanti, (lat. 18° 17' 20" S ^ 
lojg. 23° 50' 9" E.,) we again departed, for the purpose of 
ftHcending the river from Sesheke, (lat. 17° 31' 38" S., long 
25° 13' E.) To the Barotse country, the capital of which 
is Nariele or Naliele, (lat. 15° 2-4' 17" S., long. 23° 5' 54" E.,) 
t went in companj^ with Sekeletu and about one hundred 
and sixty attendants. We had most of the young men 
with us, and many of the under-chicfs besides. The country 
between Linyanti and Sesheke is perfectly flat, e-fccpt 
patches elevated only a few feet above the surrounding 
level. There are also many mounds where the gigantio 
ant-hills of the country ha\e been situated or still appear: 
these mounds are evidently the work of the termites. No 
vie who has not seen their gigantic structures can fan(iy 

10 



lie THE CHIEFS GUARD 

the industry of these little laborers; they seem tc impart 
fertility to the soil which has once j^assed through their 
mouths, for the Makololo find the sides of ant-hills the 
choice spots for rearing early maize, tobacco, or any thing 
ou which they wish to bestow especial care. We had the 
Chobe on our right, with its scores of miles of reed occupy- 
ing the horizon there. It was pleasant to look back on the 
long extended line of our attendants, as it twisted and bent 
according to the curves of the footpath, or in and out behind 
the mounds, the ostrich -feathers of the men waving in thb 
wind. Some had the white ends of ox-tails on their heads, 
hussar fashion, and others great bunches of black ostrich- 
feathers, or caps made of lions' manes. Some wore red 
tunics, or various-colored prints which the chief had bought 
from Fleming; the common men carried burdens; the gen- 
tlemen walked with a small club of rhinoceros-horn in their 
hands, and had servants to carry their shields; while the 
''Machaka," battle-axe men, carried their own, and were 
liable at any time to be sent off a hundred miles on an 
errand, and expected to run all the way. 

Sekeletu is always accompanied by his own Mopato, a 
number of young men of his own age. When he sits down 
they crowd around him ; those who are nearest eat out of 
the same dish, for the Makololo chiefs pride themselves on 
eating with their people. He eats a little, then beckons 
his neighbors to partake. When they have done s«, he 
perhaps beckons to some one at a distance to take a share; 
that person starts forward, seizes the pot, and removes it 
to his own companions. The comrades of Sekeletu, wish 
ing to imitate him in riding on my old horse, leaped on th© 
backs of a number of half-broken Batoka oxen as they ran j 
but, having neither saddle nor bridle, the number of tumbles 
they met with was a source of much an.asement to the 
rest. 

When we arrived at any village, the women all turned 
out to lulliloo their chief. Their shrill voices, to which 
they give a tremulous sound by a quick motion of the 



II 



RECEPTION AT VILLAGES. Ill 

tongue, peal forth, "Great lion!" ^^ Great cliief!" "Sleep, 
my lord!'' &c. The men utter similar salutations; and 
Sokeletu receives all with becoming indifference. After a 
few minutes' conversation and telling the news, the head 
man of the village, who is almost ahvays a Makololo, rises 
and brings forth a number of large pots of beer. Cala- 
bashes, being used as drinking-cups, are handed round, and 
as many as can partake of the beverage do so, grasping 
the vessels so eagerly that they are in danger of heiug 
broken. 

They bring forth also large pots and bowls of thick milk j 
some contain six or eight gallons; and each of tnese, as 
well as of the beer, is given to a particular person, who has 
the power to divide it with whom he pleases. The head- 
man of any section of the tribe is generally selected for 
this office. Spoons not being generally in fashion, the milk 
is conveyed to the mouth with the hand. I often presented 
my friends with iron spoons, and it was curious to observe 
how the habit of hand- eating prevailed, though they were 
delighted with the spoons. Thev lifted out a little with 
the utensil, then put it on the left hand, and ate it out ol 
that. 

As the Makololo have great abundance of cattle, and the 
chief is expected to feed all who accompany him, ho either 
selects an ox or two of his own from the numerous cattle- 
stations that he possesses at different spots all over the 
country, or is presented by the head-men of the villages 
he visits with as many as he needs, by way of tribute. The 
animals are killed by a thrust from a small javelin in the 
region of the heart, the wound being purposely small in 
order to avoid any loss of blood, whict, with the internal 
parts, are the perquisites of the men who perform the work 
of the butcher; hence all are eager to render service in 
that line. Each tribe has its own way of cutting up and 
distributing an animal. Among the Makololo the hump 
and ribs belong to the chief; among the Bakwains the 
breast is his perquisite. After the oxen are cut up, the dif- 



112 SOCIAL MODE OF EATING. 

fereni joints nre placed before SekeletU; aLd be apportions 
tbem among tbe gentlemen of tbe party. Q'iie wbole is 
rapidly divided by their attendants, cut into long strips, 
and so man}^ of these are thrown into the tires ut once that 
they are nearly put out. Half broiled and burning hot, 
the meat is quickly Jianded round; every one gets a mouth- 
ful, but no one except the chief has time to masticate. It 
is not the enjoyment of eating they aim at, but to get as 
muob of the food into the stomach as possible during the 
«hovt time the others are cramming as well as themselves, 
for n'> one can eat more than a mouthful after the others 
have finished. They are eminently gregarious in their 
eatin'r; and, as they despise any one who eats alone, J 
alwavs poured out two cups of coffee at my own meals, so 
that the chief, or some one of the principal men, might 
part?ke along with me. They all soon become very fond 
of coffee; and, indeed, some of the tribes attribute greater 
fecundity to the daily use of this beverage. They were all 
well acquainted with the sugarcane, as they cultivate it 
in the Barotse country, but knew nothing of the method 
of extracting the sugar from it. They use the cane only 
for chewing. Sckeletu, relishing the sweet coffee and bis- 
cuits, of which I then had a store, said *^he knew my heart 
loved him by finding his own heart warming to my food.'"' 
He had been visited during my absence at the Cape by 
some traders and Griquas, and "their coffee did not taste 
half so nice as mine, because they loved his ivory and not 
himself.'^ This was certainly an original mode of dis- 
cerning character. 

Sckeletu and I had each a little gipsy-tent in which to 
sleep. The Makololo huts are generally clean, while those 
cf the Makalaka are infested with vermin. The cleanli- 
ness of the former is owing to the habit of frequently 
smearing the floors with a plaster composed of cow-dung 
and earth. If we slept in the tent in some villages, the 
mice ran over our faces and disturbed our sleep, or hungry 
prowling dogs would eat our shoes and leave only the 



MAKOLOLO HUTS. US 

soles. When they were guilty of this and other misde- 
meanors, we got the loan of a hut. The best sort of Miv 
kololo huts consist of three circular walls, with small holes 
as doors, each similar to that in a dosj-house; and it in 
necessary to bend down the body to get in, even whon on 
all-fours. The roof is formed of reeds or straight bticks, 
in shape like a Chinaman's hat, bound firmly together with 
circular bands, which are lashed with the strong inner 
bark of the mimosa-tree. When all prepared except the 
thatch^ it is lifted on to the circular wall, the rim resting 
on a circle of poles, between each of which the third wall 
is built. The roof is thatched with fine grass, and sewed 
with the same material as the lashings ; and, as it projects 
far beyond the walls, and reaches within four feet of the 
ground, the shade is the best to be found in the country. 
These huts are very cool in the hottest day, but are close 
and deficient in ventilation by night. 

The bed is a mat made of rushes sewn together with 
twine ; the hip-bone soon becomes sore on the hard flat 
surface, as we are not allowed to make a hole in the floor 
to receive the prominent part called trochanter by ana- 
tomists, as wo do when sleeping on grass or sand. 

Our course at this time led us to a part above Sesheke, 
called Katonga, where there is a village belonging to a 
Bashubia man named Sckhosi, — latitude 17° 29' 13", longi- 
tude 24° 33'. The river here is somewhat broader than at 
Sesheke, and certainly not less than six hundred yards 
It flows somewhat slowly in the first part of its eastern 
course. AVhen the canoes came from Sekhosi to take ua 
ovor, one of the comrades of Sebituane rose, and, looking 
(o Sekeletu, called out, '-The elders of a host always take 
tiio lead in an attack.'' This was understood at once; and 
Sekeletu, with all the young men, were obliged to give the 
elders the precedence, and remain on the southern bank 
and sec that all went orderly into the canoes. It took a 
considerable time to ferry over the whole of our large 
party, as, even with quick paddling, from six to eight 
H JO* 



114 THE LF.EAMBTE. 

mmules wero spent in the mere passage from bank to 
bank. 

Several da3's were spent in collecting canoes from dlf 
tercnt villages on the river, which we now learned is called 
by ihe whole of \\\q Barotse the IJambai or Leeamb^o 
This wo could not ascertain on our first visit, and, con^e- 
qiicmly, called the r.'ver after the town ''Sesheke." Ti\la 
term Sesheke means ''white sand-banks," many of •which 
exist at this part. There is another village in the valley 
of the Earotse likewise called Sesheke, and for the same 
reason; but the term Leeambye means "the large river," 
or the river par excellence. Luamboji, Luambesi, Ambezi, 
Ojimbesi, and Zambesi, &c., are names applied to it at dif- 
ferent parts of its course, according to the dialect spoken, 
and all possess a similar signification, and express the na- 
tive idea of this magnificent stream being the main drain 
of the country. 

In order to assist in the support of our large party, and 
at the same time to see the adjacent country, I vrent 
',cveral times, during our staj^, to the north of the village 
for game The country is covered with clumps of beauti- 
ful trees, among which fine open glades stretch away in 
every direction; when the river is in flood these arc inun- 
dated, but the tree-covered elevated spots are much more 
numerous here than in the country between the Chobe and 
the Leeambj'c. The soil is dark loam, as it is everywhere 
en spots reached by the inundation, while among the treca 
It is sandy, and not covered so densel}' with grass as else- 
\i5'here. A sandy ridge covered with trees, running parallel 
to and about eight miles from the river, is the limit of the 
inundation on the north ; there are large tracts of this 
sandy forest in that direction, till you come to other dis- 
tricts of alluvial soi! and fewer trees. The latter soil is 
always found in the vicinity of rivers which either now 
overflow their banks annually or formerly did so. The 
people enjoy rain in sufficient quantity to raise very large 
supplies of grain and groundnuts. 



AN ELANr SHOT. 115 

Great numbers of buffaloes, zebras, tsesssbes, tahaetsi| 
and eland, or pohu, grazed undisturbed on these plains, so 
chat very little exertion was required to secure a fair sup- 
ply of meat for the party during the necessary delay* 
Hunting on foot, as all those who have engaged in it in 
uliis country will at once admit, is very hard work indeed. 
Tlic heat of the sun by day is so great, even in winter, as 
it now was, that, had there been any one on whom I could 
have thrown the task, he would have been most welcome 
to all the sport the toil is supposed to impart. But the 
Makololo shot so badly, that, in order to save my powder, 
I was obliged to go myself. 

We shot a beautiful cow-eland, standing in the shade of 
a fine tree. It was evident that she had lately had hci 
calf killed by a lion, for there were five long deep scratches 
on both sides of her hind-quarters, as if she had run to the 
rescue of her calf, and the lion, leaving it, had attacked 
herself, but was unable to pull her down. When lying on 
the ground, the milk flowing from the large udder showed 
that she must have been seeking the shade, from the dis- 
tress its non-removal in the natural manner caused. She 
was a beautiful creature, and Lebeole, a Makololo gentle- 
man who accompanied me, speaking in reference to its size 
and beauty, said, "Jesus ought to have given us these in- 
stead of cattle.'' It was a new, undescribed variety of thia 
splendid antelope. It was marked with narrow white 
bands across the body, exactly like those of the koodoo, 
and had a black patch of more than a hand-breadth on the 
outer side of the forearm. 



316 ASCENT OP THE LEEAMBTB. 



CHAPTEE XII. 

DE. LIVINGSTONE ASCENDS THE LEEAMBYE, AND DETERMINES 
TO OPEN A COMMUNICATION WITH THE WEST COAST OF 
AFRICA. 

Having at last procured a sufficient number of canoes, 
we began to ascend the river. I had the choice of the 
whole fleet, and selected the best, though not the largest -, 
it was thirty-four feet long by twenty inches wide. I had 
six paddlers, and the larger canoe of Sekeletu had ten 
Ihey stand upright, and keep the stroke with great pre- 
cision, though they change from side to side as the course 
demands. The men at the head and stern are selected from 
the strongest and most expert of the whole. The canoes, 
being flat-bottomed, can go into very shallow water ; and 
whenever the men can feel the bottom they use the paddles, 
which are about eight feet long, as poles to punt with. 
Our fleet consisted of thirty-three canoes, and about onj 
hundred and sixty men. It was beautiful to see thcB 
skimming along so quickly and keeping the time so well 
On land the Makalala fear the Makololo; on water th€ 
Makololo fear them, and car .not prevent them from racing 
with each other, dashing along at the top of their speed 
and placing their masters' lives in danger. In the event 
01 a capsize, many of the Makololo would sink like stones. 
A case of this kind happened On the first day of our voyagt 
up. The wind, blowing generally from the east, raises very 
large waves on the Leeambye. An old doctor of the Mako- 
lolo had his canoe filled by one of these waves, and, being 
nnablo to swim, was lost. The Barotse who were in the 
canoe with him saved themselves by swimming, and were 
afraid of being punished with death in the evening for rot 
saving the doctor as well. Had he been a man of more 
influence, they certainly would have suffered death. 



ISLANDS — ^THE BANYETI. 117 

We proceeded rapidly up the river, pnd I felt ttio pica- 
Rure of lookino; on lands which had never been seen bv a 
European before. The river is, indeed, a magnificent one, 
often more than a mile broad, and adorned with many 
islands of from three to five miles in length. Both islands 
and banks are covered with forests, and most of the trees 
on the brink of the water send down roots from their 
branches like the banian, or Ficus Indica. The islands at 
a little distance seem great rounded masses of sylvan vege- 
tation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream. The 
beauty of the scenery of some of the islands is greatly in- 
creased by the date-palm, with its gracefully-curved fronds 
and refreshing light-green color, near the bottom of the 
picture, and the lofty palmyra towering far above, and 
casting its feathery foliage against a cloudless sky. It 
being winter, wo had the strange coloring on the banks 
which many parts of African landscape assume. The 
country adjacent to the river is rocky and undulating, 
abounding in elephants and all other large game, except 
leches and nakongs, which seem generally to avoid stony 
ground. The soil is of a reddish color, and very fertile, as 
is attested by the great quantity of grain raised annually 
by the Banyeti. A great many villages of this poor and 
very industrious people are situated on both banks of the 
river: they are expert hunters of the hippopotami and 
other animals, and very proficient in the manufacture of 
articles of wood and iron. The whole of this part of the 
country being infested with the tsetse, they are unable to 
rear domestic animals. This may have led to their skill 
in handicraft works. Some make large wooden vessels 
with vory neat lids, and wooden bowls of all sizes; and, 
since the idea of sitting on stools has entered the Makololo 
mind, they have shown great taste in the different forma 
given tc the legs of these pieces of furniture. 

Other Banyeti, or Manyeti, as they are called, make neat 
and strong baskets of the split roots of a certain tree, 
while others excel in pottery and iron. I Cftnnot find that 



118 RAPIDS AND FALLS. 

they have ever been warlike. Indeed, the wars in the 
centre of the coimtry, where no slave-trade existed, have 
seldom been about any thing else but cattle. So well 
known is this, that several tribes refuse to keep cattle, 
because they tempt their enemies to come and steal 
Nevertheless, they have no objection to eat them when 
offered, and their country admits of being well stocked. I 
have heard of but one war having occurred from another 
cause. Three brothers, Barolongs, fought for the possession 
of a woman who was considered worth a battle, and tho 
tribe has remained permanently divided ever since. 

From the bend up to tho north, called Katima-molclo, (I 
quenched fire,) tho bed of the river is rocky, and tho 
stream runs fast, forming a succession of rapids and cata- 
racts, which prevent continuous navigation Avhen tho 
water is low. Tho rapids arc not visible when the river 
is full, but the cataracts of iNambwc, Bombwc, and Kalo 
must always be dangerous. The fall a:; each of these is 
between four and six feet. But the falls of Gonyc present 
a much more serious obstacle. There we were obliged to 
take the canoes out of the water, and carry them moro 
than a mile by land. The fall is about thirty feet. Tho 
main body of water, which comes over the ledge of rock 
when the river is low, is collected into a space seventy or 
eighty yards wide before it takes the leap, and, a mass of 
rock being thrust forward against the roaring torrent, a 
loud sound is produced. 
. As we passed up the river, the different villages of Ban- 
yeci turned cut to present Sekeletu with food and skins, an 
their tribute. One large village is placed at Gon^-e, tho 
inhabitants of which are required to assist the Makololo 
to carry their canoes past the falls. The tsetse here 
lighted on us even in tho middle of the stream. This 
we crossed repeatedly, in order to make short cuts at 
bends of the river. The course is, however, remarkably 
straight among the rocks; and here the river is shallow 
an account of the great bieadth of surface which it covers. 



NALIELE^ SANTURU. 119 

When \vc came to about 1G° 10' S. latitude, tho high 
wooded banks seemed to leave the river, and no more 
isetse appeared. 

This visit was the first Sekeletu had made to thoce parts 
since he attained the chieftainship. Those who had taken 
part with JMpcpe were consequently in great terror. 
When we came to the town of Mpepc's father, as he and 
another man had counselled Mamochisane to put Sekeletu 
to death and marry Mpepe, the two were led forth and 
tossed into the river. Nokuano Avas again one of tho 
executioners. AVhen I remonstrated against human blood 
being shed in the oif-hand way in which they were pro- 
ceeding, the counsellors justified their acts by the evidence 
given b}' Mamochisane, and calmly added, "You sec wo 
are still Boers : we are not yet taught." 

Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, is built on a mound 
which was constructed artificially by Santuru, and was his 
storehouse for grain. His own capital stood about fivo 
hundred 3'ards to the south of that, in what is now tho 
bed of the I'iver. All that remains of the largest mound 
in the valley are a few cubic yards of earth, to erect which 
cost the whole of the people of Santuru the labor of many 
years. The same thing has happened to another ancient 
site of a town, Linangelo, also on the left bank. It would 
seem, therefore, that the river in this part of the valley 
must be wearing eastward. 

Santuru, at whose ancient granary we are staying, was 
a great hunter, and very fond of taming wild animals. 
Ills people, aware of his taste, brought to him every young 
antelope they could catch, and, among other things, two 
young hippopotami. These animals gambolled in the river 
by day, but never failed to remember to come up to Nalielo 
for their suppers of milk and meal. They were the wonder 
of the country, till a stranger, happening to come to visit 
iSanluru, saw them reclining in the sun, and speared ono 
of tnem, on the supposition that it was wild. Tho samo 
uiducky accident happened to one of the cats I liad brought 



120: BAROTdE ERAS. 

to Sckoletn. A stranger, seeing an animal he had never 
Viewed before, killed it and brought the trophy to the 
chief, thinking that he had made a very remarkable dis- 
vjovery : we thereby lost the breed of cats, of whick from, 
kho swarms of mice, we stood in great need. 

On making inquiries to ascertain whether Santuru, the 
Mcloiana, had ever been visited by white men., I could find 
no vestige of any such visit; there is no evidence of any 
of Santuru's people having ever seen a white man before 
the arHval of Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. The people 
have, it is true, no written records; but any remarkable 
event here is commemorated in names, as was observed by 
Park to be the case in the countries he traversed. The 
year of our arrival is dignified by the name of the year 
when the white men came, or of Sebituane's death ; but 
they prefer the former, as they avoid, if possible, any direct 
reference to the departed. After my wife's first visit, great 
numbers of children were named Ma-Eobert, or mother ot 
Robert, her eldest child; others were named Gun, Horse, 
VYagon, Monare, Jesus, &c. ; but though our names, and 
those of the native Portuguese who came in 1853, were 
adopted, there is not a trace of any thing of the sort having 
hap'pened previously among the Barotse: the visit of a 
white man is such a remarkable event, that, had any taken 
place during the last three hundred years, there must have 
remained some tradition of it. 

The town or mound of Santuru's mother was shown to 
me : this was the first symptom of an altered state of feel- 
ing with regard to the female sex that I had observed. 
There are few or no cases of women being elevated to the 
headships of towns farther south. The Barotse also showed 
some relics of their chief, which evinced a greater amount 
of the religious feeling than I had ever known displayed 
Pimong Bechuanas. His more recent capital, Lilonda, built, 
too, on an artificial mound, is covered with different kinds 
of trees, transplanted when young by himself. They form 
a Lrr ovc on the e^d of the mound, in which are to be soeu 



RELIGIOUS FEELING. 121 

various instruments of iron just in the state he left them. 
One looks like the guard of a basket-hilted swcrd; anothej 
has an upright stem of the metal, on which are placed 
branches worked at the ends into miniature axes, hoes, and 
Bj^ears; on these he was accustomed to present offeringp^ 
according as he desired favors to be conferred in undertak- 
ing hewing, agriculture, or fighting. The people still living 
there, in charge of these articles, were supported by presents 
from the chief; and the Makololo sometimes follow the ex- 
ample. This was the nearest approach to a priesthood J 
met. When I asked them to part with one of these relics, 
they replied, " Oh, no : he refuses." " Who refuses ?'' ^' San- 
turu," was their reply, showing their belief in a future state 
of existence. After explaining to them, as I always did 
when opportunity offered, the nature of true worship, and 
praying with them in the simple form which needs no 
offering from the worshipper except that of the heart, and 
planting some fruit-tree seeds in the grove, we departed. 

Another incident, which occurred at the confluence of 
the Leeba and Leeambye, may be mentioned here, as show- 
ing a more vivid perception of the existence of spiritual 
Leir/gs, and greater proneness to worship, than among tho 
Bechuanas. Ilitving taken lunar observations in the morn- 
ing, I was waiting for a meridian altitude of the sun for 
the latitude; my chief boatman was sitting by, in order to 
pack up the instruments as soon as I had finished ; there 
was a large halo, about 20° in diameter, round the sun; 
thinking that the humidity of the atmosphere, which this 
indicated, might betoken rain, I asked him if his experience 
did not lead him to the same view. " Oh, no/' re2:)lied ho; 
"it is the Barimo, [gods or departed spirits,] who tave 
called a picho; don't you eee they have the Lord [sun] in 
tho centre ?'' 

WhilQ still at Naliele, I walked outio Katongo, (lat. 15° 

16' -33",) on the ridge which bounds the valley of the Barotse 

in that direction, and found it covered with trees. It is 

only the commencement of the lands which are never 

11 



122 THE HERALD. 

mundiilcd; Ihcir gentle rise from the dead level of (he 
valioy mucli resembles the edge of the Desert in the valley 
of the ?sile. 

I imagined the slight elevation (Katongo) might be 
health}', but was informed that no part of this region 19 
exempt from fever. When the waters begin to retire ficin 
this valley, such masses of decayed vegetation and mud 
arc exposed to the torrid sun that even the natives suffer 
severely from attacks of fever. The grass is so rank in 
its growth th.at one cannot sec the black alluvial soil of 
(.lie bottom of tliis periodical lake. Even when the grass 
falls down in winter, or is "laid" by its own weight, one ia 
obliged to lift the feet so high, to avoid being tripped up 
by it, as to make walking excessively fatiguing. Young 
leches are hidden beneatli it by their dams j and the Mako- 
lolo youth complain of being unable to run in the Barotso 
land on this account. There was evidently no healthy 
spot in this quarter; and, the current of the river being 
about four and a half miles per hour, (one hundred yards 
in sixty seconds,) I imagined we might find what we needed 
in the higher lands, from wh.ich the river seemed to come. 
I resolved, therefore, to go to the ntmost limits of the Ba- 
rotsc countiy before coming to a final conclusion. Katongo 
w:is tlic best ]>lace we had seen ; but, in order to accomplish 
a complete examination, 1 left Sekeletu at Naliele, and 
ascended tlie river, lie furnished mo with men, besides 
my rowers, and among the rest a herald, tliat I might 
enter his villages in what is considered a dignified manner. 
This, it was supposed, would be effected by the herald 
shouting out, at the top of his voice, "Here comes the lord, 
the great lion;" the latter phrase being "tau c tona," 
which, in his imperfect waj' of pronunciation, became 
"5au e tuna," and so like "the great sow" that I could not 
receive the honor with becoming gravity, and had to 
entreat him, much to the annoyar.co of my party, to be 
bilent. 

In our ascent we visited a number of Makololo villages, 



THE LEEAMBYE AND LOETI 123 

and were always received with a hearty welcome, as me3- 
scnjjjcrs to them of peace, which they term ''sleep." They 
behave well in public meetings, even on the first occasion 
of attendance, probably from the habit of commanding the 
Makalaka, crowds of w^hom swarm in every village, and 
whom the Makololo women seem to consider as especially 
under their charge. 

The river presents the same appearance of low banks 
without trees as we have remarked it had after avc camo 
to 16° IG', until we arrive at Libonta, (14° 59' S. lat.) 
Twenty miles beyond that, wc find forests down to tho 
water's edge, and tsetse. Hero I might liave tui-ned back, 
as no locality can bo inhabited by Europeans where that 
scourge exists; but, hearing that avc were not far from 
the confluence of the river of LOnda or Lunda, named I.oeba 
or Loiba, and the chiefs of that country being reported to 
be friendly to strangei-s, and therefore likely to be of use 
to me on my return from the Avest coast, I still pushed on 
to latitude 14° 11' 2" S. There the Leeambye assumes tho 
name Kabompo, and seems to bo coming from the cast. It 
is a fine large riA'cr, about three hundred yards Avidc, and 
the Leeba two hundred and fifty. The Loeti, a branch of 
which is called Langebongo, comes from W.N.W., through 
a level grass}" plain named Mango; it is about one hundred 
yards Avide, and enters the Lceambj'c froni the Avest ; tho 
Avaters of the Loeti are of a light color, and those of tho 
Leeba of a dark mossy hue. After the Loeti joins tho 
Leeambj'e, the diflo rent-colored Avaters flow side by side for 
some distance unmixed. 

Before reaching the Loeti, aa'c came to a num.ber of poopie 
from the Lobalc region, hunting hippopotami. They fled 
proci])itatel3? as soon as they saw the Makololo, leaving 
their canoes and all their utensils and clothing. My oavd 
Makalaka, avIio Avere accustomed to plunder AvhcrcA'cr they 
wont, rushed after them like furies, totally regardless of 
in}' shouting. As tliis proceeding avouUI have dcstiovotl 
my character entirely at Lobalo, I took my stand on a 



124 NO HEALTHS LOCaIION 

commanding position as they returned, and forced them to 
lay dowQ all the plunder on a sand-bank, and leave it there 
for its lawful owners. 

It was now quite evident that no healthy location could 
be obtained in which the Makololo would be allowed to live 
in peace. 1 nad thus a fair excuse, if I had chosen to avail 
myself of it, of coming home and saying that the "door 
was shut,'' because the Lord's time had not yet come. But 
believing that it was my duty to devote some portion of 
my life to these (to me at least) very confiding and affec- 
tionate Makololo, I resolved to follow out the second part 
of my plan, though I had failed in accomplishing the first. 
The Lccba seemed to come from the N. and by W,, or 
M.N.W. ; so, having an old Portuguese map, which pointed 
out the Coanza as rising from the middle of the continent 
in 9° S. lat., I thought it probable that, when we had as- 
cended the Leeba (from 14° 11') two or three degrees, we 
should then be within one hundred and twenty miles of 
the Coanza, and find no diflSculty in following it down to 
the coast near Loanda. This was the logical deduction ; 
but, as is the case with many a plausible theory, one of 
the premises Avas decidedly defective. The Coanza, as we 
afterward found, does not come from anywhere near the 
centre of the country. 

The numbers of large game above Libonta are prodigious, 
and they proved remarkably tame. Eighty-one buffaloes 
defiled in slow procession before our fire one evening, within 
gunshot ; and herds of splendid elands stood by day, with- 
out fear, at two hundred yards' distance. They were all of 
the striped variety, and, with their forearm markings, large 
dewlaps, and sleek skins, were a beautiful sight to see. 
The lions here roar much more than in the country near 
the lake, Zouga, and Chobe. One evening we had a good 
opportunity of hearing the utmost exertions the animal 
can make in that line. We had made our beds on a large 
sand-bank, and could be easily seen from all sides. A lion 
on the opposite shore amused himself for hours by roaring 



LIONS— ARABS. 125 

as loudly as he could, putting, as is usual in such cases, his 

mouth near the ground, to make the sound reverberate 

The river was too broad for a ball to reach him, so we let 

him enjoy himself, certain that he durst not have been 

gailty of the impertinence in the Bushman country. 

Wherever the game abounds, these animals exist in pro^ 

portionate numbers. Here they were very frequently seen, 

and two of the largest I ever saw seemed about as tall ae 

common donkeys; but the mane made their bodies appear 

rather larger. 

A party of Arabs from Zanzibar were in the country at 

this time. Sekcletu had gone from Naliele to the town of 

his mother before we arrived from the north, but left an ox 

for our use, and instructions for us to follow him thither. 

We came down a branch of the Leeambye called Marile, 

which departs from the main river in latitude 15° 15'4o"S., 

and is a fine deep stream about sixty yards wide. It makes 

the whole of the country around Naliele an island. When 

sleeping at a village in the same latitude as Naliele town, 

two of the Arabs mentioned made their appearance. They 

were quite as dark as the Makololo, but, having their heads 

shaved, I could not compare their hair with that of tho 

inhabitants of the country. When we were about to leave, 

they came to bid adieu; but I asked them to stay and 

help us to eat our ox. As they had scruples about eating 

an animal not blooded in their own way, I gained their 

good-will by saying I was quite of their opinion as to 

getting quit of the blood, and gave them two legs of an 

animal slaughtered by themselves. They professed tho 

greatest detestation of the Portuguese, " because they eat 

pigs;" and disliked the English, " because they thrash thera 

for selling slaves." I was silent about pork ; though, had 

they seen me at a hippopotamus two days afterward, they 

would have set me down as being as much a heretic as any 

of that nation; but I ventured to tell them that I agreed 

with the English, that it was better to let the children 

grow up and comfort their mothers when they became old^ 

11* 



126 TOWN OP MA-SEKELETO 

than to carry them away and sell them across the sea. 
This they never attempt to justify; ^Hhey ^vant them, only 
to culiivatc the land, and take care of them as their chil- 
dren." It is the same old story, justifying a monslroaa 
wrong on pretence of taking care of those degraded por- 
tions of iiumanity which cannot take care of themselves; 
doinff evil that c:ood ma^ Dome. 

Tlic.se Arabs, or Moors, could read and write their own 
language rcadil}'; and, when speaking about our Savior, 1 
admired the boldness with which they informed me "that 
Christ was a verj- good prophet, but Mohammed was far 
greater." And Avith respect to theu loathing of pork, it 
may have some foundation in their nature; for I havo 
known Bechuanas who had no prejudice against the Avila 
animal, and ate the tame without scruple, yet, unconscious 
of any cause of disgust, vomit it again. The Bechuanas 
south of the lake have a prejudice against eating fish, and 
iillegc a disgust to eating any thing like a serpent. This 
may arise fi'om the remnants of serpent-worship floating in 
their minds, as, in addition to this horror of eating such 
animals, they sometimes render a sort of obeisance to 
living serpents by clapping their hands to them, and re- 
fuisng to destroy the reptiles; but in the case of the hog 
they are conscious of no superstitious feeling. 

Having parted with our Arab friends, we proceeded down 
the Marilo till we re-entered the Leeambj'c, and went to 
the town of M^i-Sekeletu (mother of Sekeletn,) oj^posite the 
island of Loyela. Sekeletu had always supplied me most 
liberally with food, and, as soon as I arrived^ presented ra© 
with a pot of boiled meat, while his mother handed mo a 
large jar of butter, of which they make great quantities 
for the purpose of anointing their bodies. He had himsclt 
Bome times felt the benefit of my way of putting aside a 
quantity of the meat after a meal, and had now followed 
my example by ordering some to be kept forme. Accord- 
ing to their habits, every particle of an ox is devoured at 
one meal ; and as the chief cannot, without a deviation 



HEATHENISM. 127 

from their customs, cat alone, ho is often compelled to suffer 
severely from hunger before another meal is ready. AVe 
benec-forth always worked into each other's hands by sav- 
ing a little for each other; and when some of the sticklers 
for uhc and custom grumbled, I a-dvised them to cat like 
men, and not like vultures. 

As ihis was the first visit which Sekcletu had paid to this 
part of his dominions, it was to many a season of great joy. 
The head-men of each viUage presented oxcji, milk, and 
beer, more than the horde which accompanied him could 
devour, though their abilities in that lino arc something 
wonderful. The people usually show their joy and work 
off- their excitement in dances and songs. 

As Sekcletu had been waiting for me at his mother's, wo 
left the town as soon as I arrived, and proceeded down the 
river. Our speed with the stream was very great, for iu 
one day wo went from Litofe to Gonye, a distantio of forty- 
four miles of latitude j and if wo add to this the windings 
of the river, in longitude the distance will not bo much less 
than sixty geographical miles. At this rate wo soon 
reached Sesheke, and then the town of Linyanti. 

i had been, during a nine weeks* tour, in closer contact 
with heathenism than I had ever been before; and though 
all, including the chief, were as kind and attentive to mo 
as possible, and there was no want of food, (oxen being 
slaughtered dail}-, sometimes ten at a time, more than suf- 
ficient for the wants of all,) yet to endure the dancing, 
roaring, and singing, the jesting, anecdotes, grumbling, 
quarrelling, and murdering of these children of nature, 
seemed more like a severe penance than any thing 1 had 
before met with in the course of my missionary duties. I 
took thence a more intense disgust at heathenism than I 
bad before, and formed a greatly-elevated opinion of the 
latent cfTects of missions in tho south, among tribes which 
are reported to havo been as savage as the Makololo, The 
Indirect benefits which, to a casual observer, lie beneath tho 
iurfacc and arc inappreciable, in reference to the probable 



/ 

128 ARRANGEMENTS FOB JOURNEYS. 

wide diffusion of Christianity at some future time, are 
worth all the money and labor that have b^en expended 
to produce them. 



CHAPTEE XIII. 



DR. LIVINGSTONE SETS OUT ON THE EXPEDITION TO THE 

WEST COAST. 

LiNTANTi, September, 1853. — The object proposed to the 
Makololo seemed so desirable that it was resolved to proceed 
with it as soon as the cooling influence of the rams should 
be felt in November. The longitude and latitude of Lin- 
yanti (lat. 18° 17' 20" S., long. 23° 50' 9" E.) showed that 
St. Philip de Benguela was much nearer to us than 
Loanda; and I might have easily made arrangements 
with the Mambari to allow me to accompany them as far 
as Bihe, w'hich is on the road to that port; but it is so 
undesirable to travel in a path once trodden by slave- 
traders that I preferred to find out another line of march. 

Accordingly, men were sent at my suggestion to examine 
all the country to the west, to see il any belt of country 
free from tsetse could be found to afford us an outlet. The 
search was fruitless. The town and district of Liny an ti 
are svirrounded by forests infested by this poisonous insect, 
except at a few points, as that by which we entered at 
Sanshureh and another at Sesheke. But the lands both 
east and west of the Barotse valley are free from this 
insect-plague. There, however, the slave-trade had defiled 
the path, and no one ought to follow in its wake unless 
well armed. The Mambari had informed me that many 
English lived at Loanda; so / prepared to go thither. The 
prospect of meeting with countrymen sftemed to over- 
balance tlie toils of the longer march. 



A *' PICHO :'• ITS RESULTS. 129 

A "picho'* was called to deliberate on the stops proposed. 
In these assemblies great freedom of speech is allowed* 
and on this occasion one of the old diviners said, ^'Whcro 
is ho taking you to ? This white man is throwing you 
away. Your garments already smell of blood." It is 
curious to observe how much identity of character appears 
all over the world. This man was a noted croaker. Ila 
always dreamed something dreadful in every expedition, 
and was certain that an eclipse or comet betokened the 
propriety of flight. But Sebituanc formerly set his visions 
down to cowardice, and Sekeletu only laughed at him now. 
The general voice was in my favor ; so a band of twenty 
seven were appointed to accompany mo to the west 
These men were not hired, but sent to enable me to 
accomplish an object as much desired by tiho chief and 
most of his people as by me. They were eager to obtain 
free and profitable trade with white men. The prices 
which the Cape merchants could give, after defraying tho 
great expenses of a long journey hither, being very small, 
made it scarce worth while for the natives to collect pro- 
duce for that market ; and the Mambari, giving only a few 
bits of print and baize for elephants* tusks worth more 
pounds than they gave yards of cloth, had produced tho 
belief that trade with them was throwing ivory away. 
The desire of the Makololo for direct trade with the sea- 
coast coincided exactly with my own conviction that no 
permanent elevation of a people can be effected without 
commerce. Neither could there be a permanent mission 
hero, unless the missionaries should descend to the level of 
tho Makololo, for even at Kolobeng we found that traders 
demanded three or four times tho price of the articles we 
needed, and expected us to bo grateful to them besides for 
lotting us have them at all. 

The three men whom 1 had brought from Kuruman haJ 
frequent relapses of tho fever; so, finding that instead of 
serving me I had to wait on them, I decided that they 
should return to the south with Fleming as soon as he had 



180 THE LOST JOURNAL. 

finished his trading. I was then entirely dependent on 
my twenty-seven men, whom I might name Zambesiana, 
for there were two Makololo only, while the rest con- 
sisted of Barotse, Batoka, Bashubia, and two of the Am- 
boiida. 

The fever had caused considerable weakness in my owia 
frame, and a strange giddiness when I looked up suddenly 
to any celestial object, for every thing seemed to rush 
to the left, and if I did not catch hold of some object 
I fell heavily on the ground : something resembling a 
gush of bile along the duct from the liver caused the 
same fit to occur at night, whenever I turned suddenly 
round. 

The Makololo now put the question, "In the event of 
your death, will not the white pe«.>ple blame us for having 
allowed you to go away into an unhealthy, unknown 
country of enemies V* I replied that none of my friends 
would blame them, because I would leave a book with 
Sekeletu, to be sent to Mr. Moffat in case I did not return, 
which would explain to him all that had happened until 
the time of my departure. The book was a volume of my 
Journal; and, as I was detained longer than I expected at 
Loanda, this book, with a letter, was delivered by Sekeletu 
to a trader, and I have been unable to trace it. I regret 
this now, as it contained valuable notes on the habits of 
wild animals, and the request was made in the letter to 
convey the volume to my family. The prospect of passing 
away from this f:iir and beautiful world thus came beforo 
BQft in a pretty plain, matter-of-fact form, and it did seem 
a serious thing to leave wife and children, — to break up ali 
connection with earth and enter on an untried state of 
existence ; and I find myself in my journal pondering over 
that fearful migration which lands us in eternity, wonder- 
ing whether an angel will soothe the fluttering soul, sadly 
flurried as it must be on entering the spirit-world, and 
hoping that Jesus might speak but one word of peace, for 
that would establish in the bosom an everlasting calm 



OUTFIT FOR JOURNEY 131 

But, as I Lad always believed that, if wc serve God at all, 
it ought to be done in a manly way, I wrote to my 
brother, commending our little girl to his care, as I was 
determined to '^succeed or perish" in the attempt to. open 
u]) this part of Africa. The Boers, by taking possession 
of all my goods, had saved me the trouble of making a 
will; and, considering the light heart now left in my 
bosom, and some faint efforts to perform the duty of Chriis- 
tian forgiveness, I felt that it was better to be the plun- 
dered party than one of the plunderers. 

When I committed the wagon and remaining goods to 
the care of the Makololo, they took all the articles oxcepi 
one box into their huts ; and two warriors — Ponuane and 
Mahale — brought forward each a fine heifer-calf After 
performing a number of warlike evolutions, they asked 
the chief to witness the agreement made between them, 
that whoever of the two should kill a Matebcle warrior 
first, in defence of the wagon, should possess both the 
calves. 

I had three muskets for my people, a rifle and a double- 
barrelled smooth-bore for myself; and, having seen such 
great abundance of game in my visit to the Leeba, I 
imagined that^I could easily supply the wants of my 
party. Wishing also to avoid the discouragement which 
would naturally be felt on meeting any obstacles if my 
companions were obliged to carry heavy loads, I took only 
a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea and sugar, and about 
twenty of coffee, which, as the Arabs find, though used 
without either milk or sugar, is a most refreshing beverage 
after fatigue or exposure to the sun. We carried one small 
tin canister, about fifteen inches square, filled with spare 
shining, trousers, and shoes, to be used when we reached 
civilized life, and others in a bag, which were expected to 
wear out on the way ; another of the same size for medi- 
cines ; and a third for books, my stock being a Nautical 
Almanac, Thomson's Logarithm Tables, and a Bible; a 
fourth box contained a magic lauterp, which we found of 



132 OUTFIT — INSTRUMENTS. 

much use. The sextant and artificial horizon, thermo* 
meter, an<l compasses wci*c carried apart. My amniani« 
tiou was distributed in portions tlirough the whole lug- 
gage; so that, if an accident sliould befall one part, we 
could still have others to fall back upon. Our chief hopes 
for f(.>od were upon that; but, in case of failure, I took 
about twenty pounds of beads, worth forty shillings, which 
still remained in the stock I brought from Cape Town, a 
small gypsy tent, just sufficient to sleep in, a sheep-skin 
mantle as a blanket, and a horse-rug as a bed. As I had 
always found that the art of successful travel consisted in 
taking as few " impediments" as possible, and not for- 
getting to carry my wits about me, the outfit was rather 
spare, and intended to bo still more so when we should 
come to leave the canoes. Some would consider it inju- 
dicious to adopt this plan; but I had a secret conviction 
lihat, if I did not succeed, it would not bo for want of the 
"knick-knacks" advertised as indispensable for travellers, 
but from want of "pluck," or because a large array of 
baggage excited the cupidity of the tribes through whose 
country we wished to pass. 

The instruments I carried, though few, were the best of 
their kind. A sextant, by the famed mifkcrs Troughton 
and Sims, of Fleet Street; a chronometer watch, with a 
stop to the seconds-haud, — an admirable contrivance for 
enabling a person to take the exact time of observations. 
it was constructed by Dent, of the Strand, (Gl,) for tho 
Royal Geographical Society, and selected for the sciTice 
by the President, Admiral Smythe, to whose judgment and 
kindness I am in this and other matters deeply indebted. 
It was pronounced by Mr. Maclear to equal most chrono- 
meters in performance. For these excellent instruments ] 
hare much pleasure in recording my obligations to ray 
good friend Colonel Steel, and at the same time to Mr. 
Maclear for much of my ability to use them. Besides 
these, I had a thermometer by Dollond ; a compass from 
the Capo Obsorvatcy, and a small pocket one in addition; 



BANKS OP THE CHOBE. 138 

a good small telescope with a stand capable of being 
Bcrewcd into a tree. 

ll^A of November^ 1853. — Left the town of Linyanti, 
accompanied by Sekeletu and his principal men, to embark 
on the Chobe. The chief came to the river in order to see 
that all was right at parting. We crossed five branches 
of the Chobe before reaching the main stream : this 
ramification must be the reason why it appeared so 
small to Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. When all the 
departing branches re-enter, it is a large, deep river. The 
spot of embarkation was the identical island where we met 
Sebituane, first known as the island of Maunku, one of his 
wives. The chief lent me his own canoe; and, as it was 
broader than usual, I could turn about in it with ease. 

The Chobe is much infested by hippopotami, and, as 
certain elderly males are expelled the herd, they become 
soured in their temper, and so misanthropic as to attacJs 
every canoe that passes near them. 

The course of the river we found to be extremely tor- 
tuous ; so much so, indeed, as to carry us to all points of the 
compass every dozen miles. Some of us walked from a bend 
at the village of Moremi to another nearly due east of that 
point in six hours, while the canoes, going at more than 
double our speed, took twelve to accomplish the voyage 
between the same two places. And though the river is 
from thirteen to fifteen feet in depth at its lowest ebb, and 
broad enough to allow a steamer to ply upon it, the sud- 
denness of the bendings would prevent navigation; but, 
should the country ever become civilized, the Chobe would 
be a convenient natural canal. We spent forty-two and a 
half hours, paddling at the rate of five miles an houi, in 
coming from Linyanti to the confluence; there wo found a 
dike of amygdaloid lying across the Leeambye. 

The actual point of confluence of the Chobe and the 
Leeambye is ill defined, on account of each dividing into 
several branches as they inosculate ; but when the whole 
body of water collects into one bed it is a goodly sighi 

vx 



184' ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. 

for one who lijis spent many years in the thirsty soatli, 
felanding on one bank, even the keen eye of the natives 
cannot detect whether two large islands, a few miles oast 
of the junction, are mainland or not. 

After spending one night at the Makololo village on 
Mparia, we left the Chobe, and, turning round, began to 
ascend the Leeambye; on the 19th of November we a,^iiln 
reached the town of Sesheke. It stands on the north bank 
ot' the river, and contains a large population of Makalaka 
ander Moriantsane, brother-in-law of Sebituane. There 
arc parties of various tribes here, assembled under their 
respective head-men, but a few Makololo rule over all. 
Their sway, though essentially despotic, is considerably 
modified by certain customs and laws. 

The following circumstance, which happened here whei 
I was present with Sekeletu, shows that the simple mode 
of punishment by forcing a criminal to work out a fine did 
Qot strike the Makololo mind until now. 

A stranger, having visited Sesheke for the purpose of 
barter, was robbed by one of the Makalaka of most of his 
goods. The thief, when caught, confessed the theft, and 
that he had given the articles to a person who had removed 
to a distance. The Makololo were much enraged at the 
idea of their good name being compromised by this treat- 
ment of a stranger. Their customary mode of punishing 
a crime which causes much indignation is to throw the 
criminal into the river; but, as this would not restore the 
iost property, they were sorely puzzled how to act. The 
case was referred to me, and I solved the difficulty by pay- 
ing for the loss myself and sentencing the thief to work 
0U-) an equivalent with his hoe in a garden. This system 
was immediately introduced, and thieves are now sen- 
tenced to raise an amount of corn proportioned to their 
offences. Among the Bakwains, a woman who had stolen 
from the garden of another was obliged to part with her 
own entirely : it be?ame the property cf her whose field 
was injured by the crnne. 



PUBLIC ADDRESSES iSfi 

There is no stated day of rest in any part of this country, 
except the day after the appearance of the new moon; and 
the people tlien refrain only from going to their gardens. 
A curious custom, not to be found among the Bechuanas, 
prevails among the black tribes beyond them. They watch 
most eagerly for the first glimpse of the new moon, and, 
when they perceive the faint outline after the sun has set 
deep in the west, they utter a loud shout of " Kua !" and 
vociferate prayers to it. My men, for instance, called out, 
''Let our journey with the white man be prosperous ! Let 
our enemies perish, and the children of Nake become rich I 
May he have plenty of meat on this journey V &c. &c. 

I gave many public addresses to the peojyle of Sesheko 
under the outspreading camel-thorn-tree, which serves as a 
shade to the kotla on the high bank of the river. It was 
pleasant to see the long lines of men, women, and children 
winding along from different quarters of the town, each 
party following behind their respective head-men. They 
often amounted to between five and six hundred souls, and 
required an exertion of voice which brought back the com- 
plaint for which I had got the uvula excised at the Capo. 
They were always very attentive; and Moriantsane, in 
order, as he thought, to please me, on one occasion rose up 
in the middle of the discourse, and hurled his staff at the 
heads of some young fellows whom he saw working with 
a skin instead of listening. My hearers sometimes put very 
sensible questions on the subjects brought before them; at 
other times they introduced the most frivolous nonsense 
/mmediately after hearing the most; solemn truths. Some 
begin to pray to Jesus in secret as soon as they hear of the 
white man's God, with but little idea of what thoy an 
about, and.no doubt are heard by Him who, like a father 
pitieth his children. Others, waking by night, recollect 
what has been said about the future world so clearly that 
they tell next day what a fright they got by it, and resolvo 
not to listen to the teaching again ; and not a few keep to 
the determination not to believe, as certain villagers in the 



1S6 PROGRESS UP THE LEEAMBSTB. 

south, who put all their cocks to death because they 
crowed the words, " TlaDg lo rapelcng," — ^^ Come along to 
prayers/' 

On recovering partially from a severe attack of fever 
which remained upon me ever since our passing the village 
of Moremi on the Chobe, wo made ready for our departure 
up the river by sending messages before us to the villages 
to prepare food. Wo took four elephants' tusks, belonging 
to Sekeletu, with us, as a means of testing the difference of 
prices between the Portuguese, whom wc expected to reach, 
and the white traders from the south. Moriantsane sup- 
plied us well with honey, milk, and meal. The rains were 
just commencing in this district; but, though showers 
suiBcient to lay the dust had fallen, they had no influence 
whatever on the amount of water in the river, yet never 
was there less in any part than three hundred yards of a 
deep flowing stream. 

Our progress up the river was rather slow : this was 
caused by waiting opposite different villages for supplies 
of food. We might have done with much less than we got; 
but my Makololo man, Pitsane, knew of the generous orders 
**f Sekeletu, and was not at all disposed to allow them to 
remain a dead letter. The villages of the Banyeti con- 
tributed large quantities of mosibe, a bright-red bean 
yielded by a large tree. The pulp enclosing the seed is not 
much thicker than a red wafer, and is the portion used. It 
requires the addition of honey to render it at all jjalatablo. 

To these were added great numbers of the fruit which 
yields a variety of the nux vomica, from which we derive 
that virulent poison strychnia. The pulp between the nuts 
is the part eaten, and it is of a pleasant juicy nature, having 
a sweet acidulous taste. The fruit itself resembles a large 
yollc w orange, but the rind is hard, and, with the pips and 
bark, contains much of the deadly poison. They evince 
their noxious qualities by an intensely bitter taste. The 
Quts, swallowed inadvertently, cause considerable pain, 
but not death ; and, to avoid this inconvenience, the people 



II 



HIPPOPOTAMI. 137 

dry the pulp before the fire, in order to b3 able the more 
easily to ^et rid of the noxious seed. 

The rapids in the part of the river between Katima- 
molelo and Nameta are relieved by several reaches of Btill. 
deep water, fifteen or twenty miics long. In these very 
'urge herds of hij)popotarai are seen; and the deeyj furrows 
they make, in ascending the banks to graze during the 
nights, are everywhere apparent. They are guided back 
to the water by the scent; but a long-continued pouring rain 
makes it impossible to perceive by that means in which 
direction the river lies, and they are found bewildered on 
the land. The hunters take advantage of their helplessness 
on these occasions to kill them. 

It is impossible to judge of the numbers in a herd, for 
they are almost always hidden beneath the Avaters; but, as 
they require to come up every few minutes to breathe, 
when there is a constant succession of heads thrown up, 
then the herd is supposed to be large. They love a still 
reach of the stream, as in the more rapid parts of the 
channel they are floated doAvn so quickly that much exer- 
tion is necessary to regain the distance lost, by frequently 
swimming up again : such constant exertion disturbs them 
in their nap. They prefer to remain by day in a drowsy, 
yawning state, and, though their eyes are open, they take 
little notice of things at a distance. The males utter a 
loud succession of snorting grunts, which may be heard 
a mile off. The canoe in which I was, in passing over a 
wounded one, elicited a distinct grunting, though the 
animal lay entirely under the water. 

The young, when very little, take their ^tand on the 

neck of the dam, and the small head, rising above the 

large, comes soonest to the surface. The dam, knowing 

the more urgent need of her calf, comes more frequently to 

the surface when it is in her care. But in the rivers of 

L'Onda, vrhere they are much in danger of being shot, even 

the hippopotamus gains wit by experience; for, while those 

in the Zambesi put up their heads openly to blow, thofu? 

12* 



lo8 MODE or SPENDING THE DAT. 

referred to keep their noses among water-plani-s, and 
breathe so quietly that one would not dream of their ezistr 
enee ic the river except by footprints on the banks. 



CHAPTER XIT. 

VOYAGE ON THE LEEAMBYE, CONTINUED. 

SOth of November, 1853.— At Gonyo FaPiS. No ram has 
fallen here; so it is excessively hot. The trees have put od 
tlieir gayest dress, and many flowers adorn the landscape 
yet the heat makes all the leaves droop at mid-day and 
look languid for want of rain. If the countr}^ increases 
as much in beauty in front as it has done within the last 
four degrees of latitude, it will be indeed a lovely land. 

We all felt great lassitude in travelling. The atmo* 
sphere is oppressive both in cloud and sunshine. The evapo- 
ration from the river must be excessively great; and I feel 
as if the fluids of the sj^stem joined in the general motion 
of Avaterj' vapor upward, as enormous quantities of water 
must be drunk to supply its j^lace. 

When under way our usual procedure is this : — Wc get 
up a little before five in the morning; it is then beginning 
to dawn. While I am dressing, 005*00 is made ; and, having 
filled my pannikin, the remainder is handed to my com- 
panions, who eagerly partake of the refreshing beverage 
The servants are busy loading the canoes, while the prin 
cipal men are sipping the cofl'ce, and, that being soon over 
wo embark. The next two hours are the most pleasant 
part of the day's sail. The men paddle away most vigor- 
ously : the Earotse, being a tribe of boatmen, have large 
dBoply-developed chests and shoulders, with indifferent 
lower extremities. They often engage in loud scolding of 
each other, in order to relieve the tedium of their work. 
Ab mt eleven we land, and eat any ineat which may have 



PALLS OF GONYE. 139 

rtiiTJaiiiod from the previous evening meal, or a biscuit with 
honey, and drink water. 

After an hour's rest, we again embark and cower under 
an umbrella. The heat is oppressive, and, being weak 
from the last attack of fever, I cannot land and keep the 
camp supplied with flesh. The men, being quite uncovered 
in the sun, perspire profusely, and in the afternoon begiu 
to stop, as if waiting for the canoes which have been left 
behind. Sometimes wo reach a sleeping-place two hours 
before sunset, and, all bein, troubled w^ith languor, wo 
gladly remain for the night. Coffee again, and a bis(;uit, or 
a piece of coarse bread made of maize-meal, or that of the 
native corn, make up the bill of fare for the evening, un- 
less we have been fortunate enough to kill sometiiiiig, — ■ 
when we boil a potful of flesh. This is done by cutting it 
up into long strips and pouring in water till it is covered. 
When that is boiled dry, the meat is considered read3^ 

The people at Gonyc carry the canoes over the space 
requisite to avoid the falls by slinging them on poles tied 
on diagonally. They j)lace these on their shoulders, and, 
setting about the work with good humor, soon accomplish the 
task. They arc a merry set of mortals; a feeble joke seta 
them off in a fit of laughter. Here, as elsewhere, all peti- 
tioned for the magic lantern; and, as it is a good means of 
conveying instruction, I willingly complied. 

The falls of Gonye have not been made by wearing back 
like those of Niagara, but are of a fissure form. For many 
miles below, the river is confined in a narrow space of not 
more than one hundred yards wide. The water goes boiling 
along, and gives the idci;. of great masses of it rolling over 
and over, so that even the most expert swimmer woukl fin«i 
it difficult to keep on the surface. Here it is that the river, 
when in flood, rises fifty or sixty feet in peipendiculai 
height. The islands above the falls are covered with foliage 
as beautiful as can bo seen anywhere. Viewed from tht 
muss of rock which overhangs the fall, the scenery was '.he 
loveliest I had seen. 

Nothing worthy of note occurred on f ur way to Nameto, 



140 MAKOLOLO FORAY. 

There wc heard that a party of the Makololo, headed by 
Lerimo, had made a foray to the north and up the Lceba, 
in tb.c very direction in which wc were about to proceed. 
AIpololo, the uncle of Sckeletu, is considered the head-man 
of the Barotse valley ; and the perpetrators hai his full 
sanction, because Masiko, a son of Santuru, the former 
chiof of the Barotse, had fled high up the Leeambye, and, 
establisbing himself there, had sent men down to tbe vici- 
nity of jS^aliele to draw away the remaining Barotse from 
iheir allegiance. Lerimo's party had taken some of this 
Mesiko's subjects i:>ri."5oners, and destroyed several villages 
of the Balonda, to whom we were going. This was in 
direct opposition to the pohcy of Sekeletu, who wished to 
be at peace with these northern tribes; and Pitsane, my 
head-man, was the bearer of orders to Mpololo to furnish 
us with presents to the very chiefs they had attacked. 
Thus, we were to get large pots of clarified butter and 
bunches of beads, in confirmation of the message of peace 
we Avere to deliver. 

When Ave reached Litofe, we heard that a fresh foray 
was in contemplation; but I sent forward orders to disband 
tbe part}' immediately. At Ma-Sekeletu's town we found 
the head-offendei, Mpololo himself, and I gave him a bit 
of my mind, to the effect that, as I was going with the full 
sanction of Sekeletu, if any harm happened to me in con- 
sequence of his ill-advised expedition the guilt would rest 
with him. Ma-Sekeletu, who was present, heartily approved 
all I said, and suggested that all the captives taken by 
Lerimo should be returned by my hand, to shoAv Masiko 
that the guilt of the foray lay not with the superior per- 
sons of the Makololo, but with a mere serv^ant. Iler good 
sense appeared in other respects besides; and, as tbis w\as 
exactly what my own party had previously resolved to 
suggest, we were pleased to bear Mpololo agree to do what 
he was advised. He asked me to lay the matter before 
the under-chiefs of Nalielo, and when we reached ihal 
pluce, on the 9th of December, I iid ao in a picho, called 



LIBERALITY 01 THE I EOPLE. 141 

expressly for the purpose. Lcrimo was picscnt, and felt 
rather crestfallen when his exploit was described by MohO" 
risi; one of my companions, as one of extreme cowardice, 
he having made an attack upon the defenceless villagera cf 
Londa, while, as we had found on our former visit, a lion 
had actually killed eight people of Kaliele without his 
daring to encounter it. The Makololo j'tc cowardly jl 
respect to animals, but brave against men. Mpololo took 
all the guilt upon liimself before the people, and delivered 
up a captive child whom his wife had in her possession; 
others followed his example, till we procured the release of 
five of the prisoners. Some thought, as Masiko had tried 
to take their children by stratagem, they ought to take his 
by force, as the two modes suited the genius of each people : 
the Makalaka delight in cunning, and the Makololo in 
fighting; and others thought, if Sekcletu meant them to 
be at peace with Masiko, he ought to have told them so. 

It is rather dangerous to tread in the footsteps of a 
maraading-party with men of the same tribe as the 
aggressors, but my people were in good spirits, and several 
volunteers even offered to join our ranks. We, however, 
adhered strictly to the orders of Sekcletu as to our com* 
panions, and refused all others. 

The people of every village treated us most liberally, 
presenting, besides oxen, butter, milk, and meal, more than 
wo. could stow away in our canoes. The cows in this valley 
are now yielding, as they frequently do, more milk than 
the people can use, and both men and v/omen present 
butter in such quantity that I shall be able to refresh my 
men as we move along. Anointing the skin prevents the 
excessive evaporation of the fluids of the body, and acts as 
clothing in both sun and sha:le. They always made their 
presents gracefully. When an ox was given, the owner 
would sny, ^' Here is a little bit of bread for you." This was 
pleasing, for I had^bcen accustomed to the Bechuanas pre- 
senting a miserable goat, with the pompous exclamation, 
"Behold an ox!" The women persisted in giving^ me 



142 DEPARTURE IKOM KALIELE. 

copious 8uj)pli3s of shrill praises, or ^'lullilooing;'^ but^ 
though 1 frequently told them to modify their "great lords'* 
and "great lions" to more humble expressions, they so evL 
dently intended to do me honor that I could not help being 
ploased with the poor creatures' wishes for our success. 

The rains began while we were at Naliele ; this is much 
later than usual; but, though the Barotso valley has been 
m need of rain, the people never lack abundance of food 
The showers are refreshing, but the air feels hot and close; 
Jic thci-mometer, however, in a cool hut, stands only at 
84°. The access of the external air to any spot at onco 
raises its temperature above 90°. A new attack of fcvei 
hero caused excessive languor; but, as I am already getting 
tired of quoting my fevers, and never liked to read travels 
myself Avhere much was said about the illnesses of the 
traveller, I shall henceforth endeavor to say little abou+ 
thorn. 

We here sent back the canoe of Sekeletu, and got the 
loan of others from Mpololo. Eight riding-oxen, and seven 
for slaughter, were, according to the orders of that chief, 
also furnished; some were intended for our own use. and 
others as presents to the chiefs of the Balonda. Mpololo 
was particularly liberal in giving all that Sekeletu ordered, 
though, as he feeds on the cattle he has in charge, he might 
have felt it so much abstracted from his own perquisites. 

Leaving Naliele, amid abundance of good wishes for the 
success of our expedition, and hopes that we might return 
accompanied with white traders, wo began again our ascent ol 
tho river. It was now bep-innino; to rise, thoui^h the rains 
had but just commenced in the valley. The banks are lovv', 
but cleanly cut, and seldom sloping. At low- water they are 
troni four to eight feet high, and make the river always 
assume very much the aspect of a canal. 

These perpendicular banks afford building-places to 8 
pretty bcv3-eater,* which lovos to breed iii society. The 

* Merops apiaster and M. hullockoides, (Smith, j 



LIBONTA. 143 

faco of tne sand-bank is perforated with hundreds of holes 
leading to their nests, each of whicli is about a foot apart 
from the other; and as we pass they pour out ol their 
hiding-places and float overhead. 

I7//1 December. — At Libonta. We were detained for days 
together collecting contributions of fat and butter, accord- 
ing to the orders of Sekeletu, as presents to the Balonda 
chiefs. Much fever prevailed, and ophthalmia was rife, as 
is generally the case before the rains begin. Some of my 
own men required my assistance, as well as the people of 
Libonta. A lion had done a good deal of mischief hero 
and when the people went to attack it two men were badly 
wounded; one of them had his thigh-bone quite broken, 
showing the prodigious power of this animal's jaws. The 
inflammation produced by the teeth-wounds proved fatal to 
one of them. 

Here we demanded the remainder of the captives, and 
jrot our number increased to nineteen. They consisted of 
women and children, and one young man of twenty. One 
of the boys was smuggled away in the crowd as we em- 
barked. The Makololo under-chicfs often act in direct 
opposition to the will of the head-chief, trusting to cir- 
cumstances and brazen-facedness to screen themselves from 
his open displeasure; and, as he does not always find it 
convenient to notice faults, they often go to considerable 
lengths in wrong-doing. 

Libonta is the last town of the Makololo ; so, when wo 
parted from it, we had only a few cattle-stations and out- 
lying hamlets in front, and then an uninhabited border- 
country till we came to Londa or Lunda. Libonta is situ- 
ated on a mound, like the rest of the villages in the Barotnc 
valley, but here the tree-covered sides of the valley begin 
to approach nearer the river. The village itself belongs to 
two cf the chief wives of Sebituane, Avho furnished us with 
an ox and abundance of other food. The same kindness 
was manifested by all avIio could afl'ord to give any thing; 
and, as I glance over their deeds of generosity recorded in 



144 MODE OP PASSING THE NIGHT. 

my journal, my heart glows with gratitude to *;hcin and i 
hcpo and pray that God may spare me to make them soma 
return 

Eelbrc leaving the villages entirely, we may glance at 
our way of spending the nights. As soon as we land, somo 
of the men cut a little grass for my bed, while Mashauana 
plants the poles of the little tent. These are used by day 
for carrying burdens, for the Barotsc fashion is exactly 
like that of the natives of India, onlv the burden is fastened 
near the ends of the pole, and not suspended by long cords. 
The bed is made, and boxes ranged on each side of it, and 
thei- the lent pitched over all. Four or five feet in front 
of my tent is placed the principal or kotia fire, the wood 
for which must be collected by the man who occupies the 
post of herald and takes as his perquisite the heads of all 
the oxen slaughtered and of all the game too. Each per- 
son knows the station he is to occupy in reference to the 
post of honor at the fire in front of the door of the tent. 
The two Makololo occupy my right and left, both in eating 
and sleeping, as long as the journey lasts. But Mashauana, 
my head-boatman, makes his bed at the door of the tent as 
soon as I retire. The rest, divided into small companies 
according to their tribes, make sheds all round the fire, 
leaving a horseshoe-shaped space in front sufficient for the 
cattle to stand in. The fire gives confidence to the oxen; 
so the men are alwaj's careful to keep them in sight of it. 
The sheds are formed by planting two stout forked poles 
m an inclined direction, and placing another over these in a 
Ixrizontal position. A number of branches are then stuck in 
lira ground in the direction to which the poles are inclined, 
the twigs drawn down to the horizontal pole and tied with 
strips of bark. Long grass is then laid over the branches 
in sufficient quantity to draw off the rain, and we nave 
ehcds open to the fire in front but secure from beasts be- 
hind. In less than an hour we were usually all under cover, 
Wo never lacked abundance of grass during the whole 
journey. It is a picturesque sight at night, when the clear 



ALLIGATORS. 146 

Iright moon of these climates glances on tiic sleeping forms 
around, to look out upon the attitudes of profound repose 
both men and beasts assume. There beins; no dano;cr from 
wild animals on such a nighty the fires arc allowed almost 
to go out; and, as there is no fear of hungry dogs coming 
over sleepers and devouring the food, or quietlj^ eating up 
the poor fellows' blankets, which at best were but greasy 
skins, which sometimes happened in the villages, the jnc- 
lure was one of perfect peace. 

The cooking is usually done in the natives' own style; 
and, as they carefully wash the dishes, pots, and the hands 
before handling food, it is by no means despicable Some- 
times alterations are made at my suggestion, and then they 
believe that they can cook in thorough white man's fashion. 
The cook always comes in for something left in the pot^ dO 
all are eager to obtain the office. 

1 taught several of them to wash my shirts, and they 
did it well, though their teacher had never been taught 
that w-ork himself.. Frequent changes of linen and sunning 
of my blanket kept mo more comfortable than might havo 
been anticipated, and I feel certain that the lessons of 
cleanliness rigidly instilled by my mother in childhood 
helped to maintain that respect which these people enter- 
tain for European ways. It is questionable if a descent to 
barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the eyes of savagea. 

Part of our company marched along the banks with the 
oxen, and part went in the canoes, but our pace was regu- 
lated by the speed of the men on shore. Their coui^c was 
rather difficult, on account of the numbers of departing and 
re-entering branches of the Leeambyc, which they had to 
avoid or wait at till wo ferried them over. The number 
cl a,lligators is prodigious, and in this river they are more 
Ba"yage than in some others. Many children arc carried 
off annually at Seshekc and other towns; for, notwith- 
standing the danger, when they go dowMi for water ttiey 
almost always must X^lay a while. This reptile is said by the 

Datives to strike the victim with his tail, then drag him in 
K 13 



146 GAME. 

and drown him. When lying in the water watching foi 
prey, the body never appears. Many calves arc lost also, 
and it is seldom that a number of cows can swim over at 
Scsheke without some loss. I never could avoid shudder- 
ing on seeing my men swimming across these branches, 
after one of them had been caught by the thigh and taken 
below. He, however, retained, as nearly all of them in 
the most trying circumstances do, his full presence of mind, 
and, having a small, square, ragged-edged javelin with 
him, when dragged to the bottom gave the alligator a stab 
behind the shoulder. The alligator, Avrithing in pain, leil 
him, and he came out with the deep marks of the reptile's 
teeth on his thigh. Here the people have no antipathy to 
persons who have met with such an adventure ; but in the 
Bamangwato and Bakwain tribes, if a man is eithei bitten 
or even has had water splashed over him by the reptile's 
tail, ho is expelled his tribe. 

When we had gone thirty or fort}'' miles above Libonta 
we sent eleven of our captives to the. west, to the chief 
called Makoma, with an explanatory message. Thic 
caused some delay; but as we were loaded with presenla 
of food from the Makololo, and the wild animals were in 
enormous herds, wc fared sumptuously. It was grievous, 
however, to shoot the lovely creatures, they were so tamo. 
With but little skill in stalking, one could easily get within 
fifty or sixty yards of them. There 1 lay, looking at tho 
graceful forms and motions of beautiful pokus, leches, and 
other antelopes, often till my men, wondering what wim 
the matter, came up to see, and frightened them away. 
If we had been starving, I could have slaughtered them 
•rith as little hesitation as I should cut otf a patient's leg; 
!>ut 1 felt a doubt, and the antelopes got the benefit of it. 

My men, having never had fire-arms in their hands be- 
fore, found it so difficult to hold the musket steady at the 
flash of fire in the pan, that they naturally expected mo to 
furnish them with "gun-medicine," without which, it is 
almost universally believed, no one cai. shoot straight 



DIFFICULTY IN USING THE GUN. 147 

Great oypectations had been formed when I arrived among 
the Makololo on this subject; but, having invariably de- 
clined to deceive them, as some for their own profit have 
done, my men now supposed that I would at last consent, 
and thereby relieve myself from the hard work of hunting 
by employing them after due medication. This I wag most 
willing to do, if I could have done it honestly; for, having 
but little of the hunting-/wrore in my composition, I always 
[)referred eating the game to killing it. Sulphur is the 
remedy most admired, and I remember Secheie giving a 
large price for a very small bit. He also gave some 
olephants' tusks, worth £30, for another medicine which 
was to make him invulnerable to musket-balls. As 1 
uniformly recommended that these things should be tested 
by experiment, a calf was anointed with the charm and 
tied to a tree. It proved decisive, and Secheie remarked 
it was " pleasanter to be deceived than undeceived.'^ 1 
offered sulphur for the same purpose, but that was declined, 
even though a person came to the town afterward and 
rubbed his hands with a little before a successful trial of 
shooting at a mark. 

I explained to my men the nature of a gun, and tried to 
teach them, but they would soon have expended all the 
ammunition in my possession. I was thus obliged to do 
all the shooting myself ever afterward. Their inability 
was rather a misfortune ; for, in consequence of working 
too soon after having been bitten by the lion, the bone of 
m}^ left arm had not united well. Continual hard manual 
labor, and some falls from ox-back, lengthened the liga- 
ment by which the ends of the bones were united, and a 
false joint was the consequence. The limb has never been 
painful, as those of my companions on the day of the ren- 
counter with the lion have been; but, there being a joint 
too many, I could not steady the rifle, and was always 
obliged to shoot with the piece resting on the left shoulaor. 
I wanted steadiness of aim, and it generall}^ happened that 



148 HIPPOPOTAMI. 

ihc more luinLjjiy the party became, the more frequently ] 
missed the animals. 

Before we came to the junction of the Leeba and 
Leeambye we found the banks twenty feet high, and co«i- 
posod of marl} sandstone. They are covered with trooB, 
and the left bank has the tsetse and elephants. I ?uspc(.t 
the fly has some connection with this animal, and the 
i*ortugucse in the district of Tete must think so too, for 
they call it the Musca da elephant j (the clophant-fiy.) 

Wg passed great numbers of hippopotami. They are 
rery numerous in the parts of the river where they are 
never hunted. The males appear of a dark color, tho 
females of yellovrish brown. There is not such a com[)lete 
separation of the sexes among them as among elephants. 
They spend most of their time in the water, lolling about 
in a listless, dreamy manner. AVhen they come out of the 
river by night, they crop off the soft succulent grasses 
very neatly. When they blow, they puff up the water 
about three feet high. 



CHAPTEK XY. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE VISITS THE FEMALE CHIEFS MANENKO AND 

NYAMOANA. 

On the 27th of December we were at the confluence of tlio 
Leeba and Leeambye, (lat. 14° 10' 52" S., long. 23° 35' 40" 
E ) Masiko, the Barotso chief, for whom we had so'^ie 
captives, lived nearly due east of this point. They were 
two little boys, a little girl, a young man, and two mi do lo- 
agod women. One of these was a member of a Babirape 
tribe, who knock out both upper and lower front teeth as 
a distinction. As we had been informed by the captives 
on the previous Sunday that Masiko was in the habit of 
bcizing all oi^ohans, and those who have no powerful friend 



MESSAGE TO MASIKO. 149 

iTv the tribe whose protection they can claim, and selling 
them ^ur clothing to the Mambari, we thought the obj^-o 
tion of the women to go first to his town before seeing their 
friends quite reasonable, and resolved to send a party cf 
oar own people to sec them safely among their relaiiv"efc> 
I told tbe captive young man to inform Masiko that he 
was very unlike his father Santiiru, Avho bad refused to 
Bcll his people to Mambari. He will probably bo afraid to 
deliver such a message himself, but it is meant for his peo- 
ple, and they will circulate it pretty widely, and Masiko 
may yet feel a little pressure from without. Wo sent 
Mosantu, a Batoka man, and his companions, Avith the cap- 
tives. The Barotse whom we had were unwilling to go to 
Masiko, since they owe him allegiance as the son of Sail 
turu, and while they continue with Makololo arc consi- 
dered rebels. The message by Mosantu was that ^^ I was 
sorry to find thatSanturu had not borne a wiser son. San 
turu loved to govern men, but Masiko wanted to govern 
wild beasts only, as he sold his people to the Mambari j" 
adding an explanation of the return of the captives, and 
an injunction to him to live in peace, and prevent his 
people kidnapping the children and canoes of the Makololo. 
as a continuance in these deeds would lead to war, which 
I wished to prevent. lie was also instructed to say, if 
Masiko wanted fuller explanation of my views, he must 
send a sensible man to talk with mo at the first town of the 
Balonda, to which I was about to proceed. 

AVo ferried Mosantu over to the left bank of the Leoba. 
The journey required five days, but it could not have been 
at a quicker rate than ten or twelve miles per day; the 
children were between seven and ci^ht vears of asrc, and 
unable to walk fast in a hot sun. 

Leaving Mosantu to pursue his course, wo shall take but 
one glance down the river, which we are now about i/j 
lea\o, for it comes at this point from the eastward, and our 
course is to bo directed to the northwest, as wo moan to 
go to Loandu in Angola. From the confluonco, whuro wu 

A3* 



150 NAVIGATION OF THE LEEAMBYE. 

now are, down to Mosioatiinya, there are many long 
reacli es, where a vessel equal to the Thames steamers ply- 
ing Vetween the brid2;es could run as freely as they do on 
the Thames. It is often, even here, as broad as that river 
at London Bridge; but, without accurate measurement of 
tbo depth, one could not say which contained most water. 
There are, however, many and serious obstacles to a con- 
tinued navi2:ation for hundreds of miles at a stretch 
About ten miles below the confluence of the Loeti, for m^ 
stance, there are many large sand-banks in the stream; then 
you have a hundred miles to the river Simah, where a 
Thames steamer could ply at all times of the year; but, 
again, the space between Simah and Katima-molelo has five 
or six rapids with cataracts, one of which — Gonye — could 
not be passed at any time without portage. Between 
these rapids there are reaches of still, deep water, of 
several miles in length. Beyond Katima-molelo to the 
confluence of the Chobe you have nearly a hundred miles, 
again, of a river capable of being navigated in the same 
way as in the Barotse valley. 

Now, I do not say that this part of the river presents a 
very inviting prospect for extemporaneous European enter- 
prise ; but when we have a pathway which requires only 
the formation of portages to make it equal to our canals 
for hundreds of miles, where the philosophers supposed 
there was naught but an extensive sandy desert, we must 
confess that the future partakes at least of the elements 
of hope. My deliberate conviction was and is that the 
part of the country indicated is as capable of supporting 
millions of inhabitants as it is of its thousands. The grasis 
of the Barotse valley, for instance, is such a densely-matted 
ina88, that, when "laid," the stalks bear each other up, bo 
that one feels as if walking on the sheaves of a ha^'stack, 
and the leches nestle under it to bring forth their young 
The soil which produces this, if placed under the plough, 
instead of being mere pasturage, would yield grain auGR 
cient to feed vast multitudes. 



BUFFALO-HUNT. 151 

Wo now began to ascend the Leeba. The water is blacJs 
in color as compared with the main stream, which here 
assumes the name of Kabompo. The Leeba flows placidly, 
and, unlike the parent river, receives numbers of little rivu- 
lets from both sides. It winds slowly through the most 
thai mi ng meadows, each of which has either a soft, sedgy 
centre, large pond, or trickling rill down the middle. 

A large buffalo was wounded, and ran into the thickest 
part of the forest, bleeding profusely. The young men 
went on his trail ; and, though the vegetation was so dense 
that no one could have run more than a few yards, most 
of them went along quite carelessly, picking and eating a 
fruit of the melon-family called mponko. When the animal 
heard them approach, he always fled, shifting his stand 
and doubling on his course in the most cunning manner. 
In other cases I have known them to turn back to a point 
a few yards from their own trail, and then lie down in a 
hollow waiting for the hunter to come up. Though a 
heavy, lumbering-looking animal, his charge is then rapid 
and terrific. More accidents happen by the buffalo and 
the black rhinoceros than by the lion. Though all aro 
aware of the mischievous nature of the buffalo when 
wounded, our young men went after him quite carelessly. 
They never lose their presence of mind, but, as a bufialo 
charges back in a forest, dart dexterously out of his way 
behind a tree, and, wheeling round, stab him as he passes. 
On the 28th wo slept at a spot on the right bank from 
which had just emerged two broods of alligators. Wo had 
seen many young ones as we came up ; so this seems to be 
their time of coming forth from the nests, for we saw them 
Buaning themselves on sand-banks in company with the 
old ones. We made our fire in one of the deserted noata, 
which were strewed all over with the broken shells. At 
the Zouga wo saw sixty eggs taken out of one such nest 
alone. They are about the size of those of a goose, only 
the eggs of the alligator are of the same diameter at both 
ends, and the white shell is partially elastic, from having a 



152 alligators' eggs. 

strong internal jncmbranc and but little lime ii. its compo 
fiition. The distance from the water was about ten feet 
\nd there were evidences of the same place having been 
used for a similar purpose in former years. A broad patL 
led up fiom the water to the nest, and the dam, it was sai:i 
by my companions, after depositing the eggs, covers thcin 
up, and returns afterward to assist the young out of the 
phice of confinement and out of the Qgg. Slie leads them 
to the edge of the water, and then leaves them to catch 
small fish for themselves. 

When we reached the part of the river opposite to the 
village of Manenko, the first female chief whom we encoun- 
tered, two of the people called Balunda, or Balonda, came 
to us in their little canoe. From them we learned that 
Kolimbota, one of our party, who had been in the habit of 
visiting these parts, was believed by the Balonda to have 
acted as a guide to the marauders under Lerimo, whoso 
captives we were now returning. The}'- very naturally 
suspected this, from the facility with which their villages 
had been found; and, as they had since removed them to 
some distance from the rivei', they were unwilling to lead 
us to their places of concealment. We were in bad repute; 
but, having a captive boy and girl to show in evidence of 
Sekeletu and ourselves not being partakers in the guilt of 
inferior men, I could fully express my desire that all should 
live in peace. They evidently felt that I ought to have 
taught the Makololo first, before coming to them; for they 
remarked that what 1 advanced was very good, but guilt 
lay at the door of the Makololo for disturbing the pre- 
viously-existing peace. They then went away to report 
US to Manenko. 

Wher. the strangers visited us again in the evening*", they 
wore accompanied by a number of the people of an Am- 
bonda cliief named Sekelenke. The Ambonda live far to 
the N.W ; their language (the Bonda) is the common dijv 
\eet in ^Angola. Sekelenke had fled, and was now living 
with his village as i vassal of Masiko. Sekelenke bud 



sekelExNke's present 153 

gone W]lli his villagers to hant elephants on the right 
bank of the Lccba, and was now or. his Avay back to 
Masiko. lie sent me a dish of boiled zcbi-a's flesh, and a 
request that I should lend him a canoe to ferry his wives 
and family across the river to the bank on Avhich we were 
encamped. Many of Sekelenke's people came to salute the 
first white man they ever had an opportunity of seeing; 
but Sekelcnke himself did not come near. AYe heard he 
was offended with some of his people for letting me know 
he was among the company. He said that I should bo 
displeased with him for not coming and making some pre 
sent. This was the only instance in which 1 was shunned 
in this quarter. 

Sekelenke and his people, twenty -four in number, defileJ 
past our camp, carrying large bundles of dried elephants' 
meat. Most of them came to say good-bye, and Sekelenke 
himself sent to say that he had gone to visit a wife living 
in the village of Manenko. It was a mere African manoeuvre 
to gain information, and not to commit himself to either 
one line of action or another with respect to our visit. As 
he was probably in the party before us, I replied that it 
was all right, and when my people came up from Masiko 
I would go to r^y wife too. 

To our first message offering a visit of explanation to 
Manenko, we got an answer, with a basket of manioc-roots, 
that we must remain where we were till she should visit 
us. -Having waited two days already for her, other mes- 
sen<jcers arrived with orders for me to come to her. After 
four days of rains and negotiation, I declined going at all, 
iiTid proceeded up the river to the small stream Makcndo, 
(lat. lo° 23' 12" S.,) which enters the Loeba from the east^ 
and is between twenty and thirty yards broad. 

January I, ISo-^. — We had heavy rains alnost everyday: 
indeed, the rainy season had fairly set in. Baskets of the 
purple fruit called maw^a were frequently brought to us by 
the villagers; not for sale, but from a belief that theii 



154 MAMBARI TRADERS. 

cliiefs would be pleased to hear that they had treated us 
woll : we ga\e them pieces of meat in return. 

When crossing at the confluence of the Leeba and Ma- 
ker; do, one of my men picked up a bit of a steel watch 
chain of English manufacture, and we were informed that 
tliis was the spot where the Mambari cross in coming to 
Masiko. Their visits explain why Sekelenke kept his tusks 
so carefully. These Mambari are veiy enterprising mer- 
chants : when they mean to trade with a town, they delibe- 
rately begin the affair by building huts, as if they knew 
that little business could be transacted without a liberal 
allowance of time for palaver. They bring Manchester 
goods into the heart of Africa; these cotton prints look so 
wonderful that the Makololo could not believe them to be 
the work of mortal hands. On questioning the Mambari, 
they were answered that English manufactures came out of 
the sea, and beads were gathered on its shore. To Africans 
our cotton-mills are fairy dreams. " How can the irons spin, 
weave, and print so beautifully ?" Our country is like what 
Taprobane was to our ancestors, — a strange realm of light, 
whence came the diamond, muslin, and peacocks ; an attempt 
at explanation of our manufactures usually elicits the expres- 
sion, '' Truly ye are gods !" 

When about to leave the Makondo, one of my men had 
dreamed that Mosantu was shut up a prisoner in a stockade : 
this dream depressed the spirits of the whole party, and 
when I came out of my little tent in the morning, they 
were sitting the pictures of abject sorrow. I asked if we 
were to be guided by dreams, or by the authority I derived 
from Sekeletu, and ordered them to load the boats at once; 
they seemed ashamed to confess their fears; the Makololo 
picked up courage and upbraided the others for having 
such superstitious views, and said this was always their 
way : if even a certain bird called to them, they would turn 
back from an enterprise, saying it was unlucky. They 
entered the canoes at last, and were the bettei of a Uttle 
Bcolding for ^c'.ng inclined to put dreams before authority. 



41 



INTER VIETV WITH FEMALE CHIEF. 155 

It rained all the morning, but about eleven we reached the 
village of Sheakondo, on a small stream named Lonkoiijo. 
VTe sent a message to the head-man, who soon appeared 
with two wives, bearing handsome presents of manioc: 
Sheakondo could speak the language of the Barotse well, 
and seemed awe-struck when told some of the ''words of 
God." He manifested no fear, always spoke frankly, and 
when he made an asseveration, did so by simply pointing 
up to the sky above him. 

Sheakondo's old wife presented some manioc-roots, and 
then politely requested to be anointed with butter: as I 
had been bountifully supplied by the Makololo, I gave her 
as much as would suffice, and, as they have little clothing, 
1 can readil}^ believe that she felt her comfort greatly 
enhanced thereby. 

The favorite wife, who was also present, was equally 
anxious for butter. She had a profusion of iron rings on 
her ankles, to which were attached little pieces of sheet- 
iron, to enable her to make a tinkling as she walked in hei 
mincing African style; the same thing is thought pretty 
by our own dragoons in walking jauntingly. 

On the 6th of January we reached the village of another 
female chief, named Nyamoana, who is said to be the 
mother of Manenko, and sister of Shinte or Kabompo, the 
greatest Balonda chief in this part of the country. Her 
people had but recently come to the present locality, and 
had erected only twenty huts. Her husband, Samoana, 
was clothed in a kilt of green and red baize, and was armed 
with a spear and a broadsword of antique form, about 
eighteen inches long and three broad. The chief and her 
husband were sitting on skins placed in the middle of a 
circle thirty paces in diameter, a little raised above the 
ordinary level of the ground, and having a trench round it. 
Outside the trench sat about a hundred persons of all ages 
and both sexes. The men were well armed with bows, 
arrows, spears, and broadswords. Beside the husband sat 
a rather aged wom^r having a bud outward squint in the 



156 COURT ETIQUETTE. 

left eye. We put down our arms about forty yards off, and 
£ v.alked up to the centre of the circular bench, and sal Ued 
ttim in the usual way by clapping the hands together in 
their fashion, lie pointed to his wife, as much as to say, 
The lionor belongs to her. I saluted her in the same way, 
and, a mat having been brought, I squatted down in front 
of them. 

The talker was then called, and I was asked who was 
my spokesman. Having pointed to Kolimbota, who knew 
their dialect best, the palaver began in due form. I ex- 
plained the real objects I had in view, without any attempt 
to mystify or appear in any other character than my own, 
for I have always been satisfied that, even though there 
were no other considerations, the truthful way of dealing 
with the uncivilized is unquestionably the best. Kolimbota 
repeated to Nyamoana's talker what I had said to h.im 
Ho delivered it all verbatim to her husband, who repeated 
it again to her. It was thus all rehearsed four times over, 
in a tone loud enough to be heard by the whole party of 
auditors. The response came back by the same round- 
about route, beginning at the lady to her husband, &c. 

After explanations and re-explanations, I perceived that 
our new friends were mixing up my message of peace and 
friendship with Makololo affairs, and stated that it was 
not delivered on the authority of any one less than that 
of their Creator, and that if the Makololo did again break 
his laws and attack the Balonda, the guilt would rest with 
the Makololo and not with me. The palaver then canio tc 
a close. 

By way of gaining their confidence, I showed them ray 
hair, which is considered a curiosity in all this region. They 
said, " Is that hair? It is the mane of a lion, and not hair 
tJ.t all.'" Some thought that I had made a wig of lion's 
mane, as they sometimes do with fibres of the '< ife," and 
dye u. black and twist it so as to resemble a mass of then 
own 'vool. I could not return the joke by telling them 
that theirs was not Hair, but the w^ool of sheep, for thej 



•^CREASE OP SUPERSTITION. 157 

havo none ot these in the country; and even tliough they 
had, a3 Herodotus remarked, *' the African sheep are clothed 
vr'iih hair, and men's heads 'vith wool." So I liad to be 
content with asserting that mine was the i^eal original hair, 
6ueh as theirs would have been had it not been scorched 
and frizzled b}" the sun. In proof of what the sun could 
do, I compared my own bronzed face and hands, then about 
the same in complexion as the lighter-colored Makololo, 
with the white skin of my chest. They readily believed 
that, as they go nearly naked and fully exposed to that 
influence, we might be of common origin after all. Here, 
us everywhere Avhen heat and moisture are combined, the 
people arc very dark, but not quite black. There is always 
a shade of brown in the most deeply colored. I showed 
my watch and pocket-compass, which are considered great 
curiosities; but, though the lady was called on by her hus- 
band to look, she would not be persuaded to approach near 
enough. 

These people are more superstitious than any we had 
yet encountered : though still only building their village, 
they had found time to erect two little sheds at the chief 
dwelling in it, in which were placed two pots having charms 
in them. AVhen asked what medicine they contained, they 
replied, "Medicine for the Barimo;'' but when I rose and 
looked into them they said they were medicine for the 
game. Here avc saw the first evidence of the existence of 
idolatry, in the remains of an old idol at a deserted village 
it was simply a human head carved on a block of wood. 
Certain charms mixed with red ochre and white pipe-clay 
arc dotted over them Avhen they are in use; and a crooked 
stick is used in the same way for an idol when they have 
no professional carver. 

As the Leeba seemed still to come from the direction in 
vvhich we wished to go, I was desirous of proceeding far- 
ther up with the canoes; but Nyamoana was anxious that 
we should at'ow her people to conduct us to her brother 
Bhinte; and. when I explained to hor the advantage of 

14 



158 MODE OP SALUTATION, 

water-carriage, she represented that her brother did not 
live near the river, and, moreover, there was a cataract in 
front, over which it would be difficult to convey the canoes 
She was afraid, too, that the Balobalc, whose country lies 
to the west of the river, not knowing the objects for which 
wo had come, would kill us. To my reply that I had been 
so often threatened with death if I visited a now tribe 
that I was now more afraid of killing any one than of 
being killed, she rejoined that the Balobalc would not kill 
me, but the Makololo would all be sacrificed as their ene~ 
mies. This produced considerable effect on my companions, 
and inclined them to the plan of Nyamoana, of going to 
the town of her brother rather than ascending the Leeba. 
The arrival of Mancnko herself on the scene threw so 
much weight into the scale on their side that I was forced 
to yield the point. 

Mancnko was a tall, strapping woman about twenty, dis- 
tinguished by a profusion of ornaments and medicines hung 
round her person; the latter are supposed to act as charms. 
Her body was smeared all over with a mixture of fat and 
red ochre, as> 'i protection against the weather; a necessary 
precaution, for, like most of the Balonda ladies, she was 
otherwise in a state of frightful nudity. This was not from 
want of clothing; for, being a chief, she might have beep 
as well clad as any of her subjects, but from her peculiar 
ideas of elegance in dress. When she arrived with her 
busband, Sambanza, they listened for some time to the 
statements I was making to the people of Nyamoana, after 
which the husband, acting as spokesman, commenced an 
oration, stating the reasons for their coming; and, during 
every two or three seconds of the delivery, he picked up a 
little sand and rubbed it on the upper part of h^s arms 
and chest. This is a common mode of salutation in Londa; 
and when they wish to be excessively polite they bring 
a quantity of ashes or pipe-clay in a piece of skin, and, 
taking up liandfuls, rub it on the chest and upper front 
part of each arm ; others, in saluting, drum the'r ribs with 



EMBASSY AND PRESENT FROM MASIKO. 159 

their elbows ; while others still touch the ground with one 
check after tLe other, and clap their hands. The chiefs go 
thrr ugh the manoeuvre of rubbing the sand on the arms, 
bui only make a feint of picking up some. When Sam- 
bar- <a had finished his oration, he rose up and showed his 
ankles ornamented with a bundle of copper rings : had 
they been very heavy they would have made him adopt u 
straggling walk. Some chiefs have really so many as to be 
forced, by Iho weight and size, to keep one foot apart from 
the other, the weight being a serious inconvenience in 
walking. The gentlemen like Sambanza, who wish to 
imitate their betters, do so in their walk; so you see men 
with only a few ounces of ornament on their legs struttmg 
along as if they had double the number of pounds. "When 
I smiled at Sambanza's walk, the people remarked, " That 
is the way in which they show off their lordship in these 
parts." 

Manenko was quite decided in the adoption of the policy 
of friendship with the Makololo which we recommended; 
and, by way of cementing the bond, she and her coun- 
sellors proposed that KoHmbota should take a wife among 
them. Kolimbota, I found, thought favorably of the pro- 
position, and it afterward led to his desertion from us. 

On the evening of the day in which Manenko arrived^ 
we were delighted by the appearance of Mosantu and ac 
miposing embassy from Masiko. It consisted of all his 
under-chiefs; and they brought a fine elephant's tusk, two 
calabashes of honey, and a large piece of blue baizo, as a 
present. The last was intended perhaps to show mo that 
he was a truly great chief, who had such stores of white 
men's goods at hand that he could afford to give presents 
of them ; it might also be intended for Mosantu, for chiefs 
usually remember the servants : I gave it to him. Masiko 
oxprossed delight, by his principal men, at the return of 
the 'iaptives, and at the proposal of peace and alliance 
with the Makololo. He stated that he never soli any of 
his own people to the Mambari, bu""- only captives wbotn 



J 60 MANENKO A SCOLD. 

his people kidnapped from small neighboring tribes. When 
the question was p\it whether liis people had been iii 
the habit of molesting the Makololo by kidnapping their 
servants and stealing canoes, it was admitted that two 
of his men, when hunting, had gone to the Makololo 
gardens, to see if any of their relatives were there. Aa 
the great object in all native disputes is to get both parlies 
to tuarn over a new leaf, I explained the desirabk^ness of 
forgetting past feuds, accepting the present Makololo ])ro- 
fcssions as genuine, and avoiding in future to give them 
any cause for marauding. I presented Masiko with an ox 
furnished by Sckcletu as provision for ourselves. 

"We were now -without any provisions, except a small 
dole of manioc-roots each evening from Nyamoana, which, 
when eaten raw, produce poisonous effects. A small loaf, 
made from nearly the last morsel of maize-meal from Li- 
bonta, was my stock, and our friends from Masiko were 
still more destitute ; yet w^e all rejoiced so much at their 
arrival that we resolved to spend a day with them. The 
Barotse of our part}", meeting w^ith relatives and friends 
among the Barotse of Masiko, had many old tales to tell ; 
and, after pleasant hungry converse b}^ day, we regaled 
our friends with the magic lantern b}'' night; and, in order 
to make the thing of use to all, we removed our camp up 
to the village of Nyamoana. This is a good means of 
arresting the attention and conveying important facts to 
the minds of these people. 

When erecting our sheds at the village, Manenko fell 
upon our friends from Masiko in a way that left no doubt 
on our minds but that she is a most accomplished scold. 
Masiko had, on a former occasion, sent to Samoana for 
a cloth, — a common way of keeping up intercourse, — and, 
after receiving it, sent it back, because it had the appear- 
ance of having had '^witchcraft-medicine" on it : this was 
a grave offence, and now Manenko had a good excuse for 
venting her spleen, the ambassadors hav'iig called at her 
village and slept in one of the huts without leave. If hei 



DETAI2fED BY MANiNKO 161 

family was to be suspected of dealing in evil i;harnis, why 
were Masiko's people not to bo thought guilty of leaving 
the same in her hut? She advanced and receded in true 
oratorical style, belaboring her own servants as well for 
allowing the offence, and, as usual in more civilized femi- 
nine lectures, she leaned over the objects of her ire, and 
screamed forth all their faults and failings ever since they 
were born, and her despair of over seeing them bocomp 
better until they were all "killed by alligators.'' Masiko'tj 
people followed the plan of receiving this torrent of abutie 
in silence, and, as neither we nor they had any thing to 
eat, we parted next morning. In reference to Maslko 
selling slaves to the Mambari, they promised to explain 
the relationship which exists between even the most abject 
of his people and our common Father; and that no more 
kidnapping ought to bo allowed, as ho ought to give that 
peace and security to the smaller tribes on his eastern 
borders which he so much desired to obtain himself from 
the Makololo. Wo promised to return through his town 
when we came back from the sea-coast. 

Manenko gave us some manioc-roots in the morning, 
and had determined to carry our baggage to her uncle's, 
Ivabompo or Shinto. "We had heard a sample of what 
she could do with her tongue ; and, as neither my men nor 
myself had much inclination to encounter a scolding from 
this black Mrs. Caudle, we made ready the packages ; but 
she came and said the men whom she had ordered for the 
service had not yet come : they would arrive to-morrow. 
Being on low and disagreeable diet, I felt annoyed at this 
further delay, aiid ordered the packages to be put into the 
canoes to proceed up the river without her servants. But 
Manenko was not to bo circumvented in this way: sho 
came forward with her people, and said her uncle would 
be angry if she did not carry forward the tusks and goods 
of Sekeletu, seized the luggage, and declared that she 
would carry it in spite of me. My men succumbed sooner 
t/> this petticoat-government than I felt incHned to do, and 
L 14* 



162 CHAEM8. 



left me no power; and, being unwilling to encounter hei 
tongue, I was moving off to the canoes, when she gave me 
a kind explanation, and, with her hand on my shoulder, 
put on a motherly look, saying, "Now, my little man, just 
do as the rest have done." My feelings of annoyance oi 
course vanished. 



^ 



CHAPTEK XVI. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE VISITS SHINTE, CHIEF OP THE BALONDA. 

11th of January y 1854. — On starting this morning, Samoana 
(or rather Nyamoana, for the ladies are the chiefs here) 
presented a string of beads, and a shell highly valued 
among them, as an atonement for having assisted Manenko, 
as they thought, to vex me the day before. They seemed 
anxious to avert any evil which might arise from my dis- 
pleasure; but, having replied that I never kept my anger 
up all night, they were much pleased to see me satisfied. 
"We had to cross, in a canoe, a stream which flows past 
the village of Nyamoana. Manenko' s doctor waved some 
charms over her, and she took some in her hand and on 
her body before she ventured upon the water. One of my 
men spoke rather loudly when near the doctor's basket of 
medicines. The doctor reproved him, and always spoke 
in a whisper himself, glancing back to the basket as if 
afraid of being heard by something therein. So much 
enperstition is quite unknown in the south, and is men- 
tioned here to show the difference in the feelings of thia 
now people, and the comparative want of reverence on 
these points among Caffres and Bechuanas. 

Manenko was accompanied by her husband and her 
drummer, the latter continued to thump moat vigorously 
tintil a heavy, drizzling mist set in and compelled luin to 



I 



HUNGER 163 

desist. Hor husband used Tarious Incantations and vocife 
rations to drive away the rain, but down it poured inces- 
santly, and on our Amazon went in the very lightest 
■marching-order, and at a pace that few of the men could 
keep up with. Being on ox-back, I kept pretty close to 
our leader, and asked her why she did not clothe herstlf 
daring the rain, and learned that it is not considered proper 
for a chief to appear effeminate. He or she must always 
wear the appearance of robust youth and bear vicissitudes 
without wincing. My men, in admiration of her pedestrian 
powers, every now and then remarked, '^Manenko is a 
soldier;'' and, thoroughly wet and cold, we were all glad 
when she proposed a halt to prepare our night's lodging 
on the banks of a stream. 

E"ext day we passed through a piece of forest so dense that 
no one could have penetrated it without an axe. It was 
flooded, not by the river, but by the heavy rains which 
poured down every day and kept those who had clothing 
constantly wet. I observed in this piece of forest a very 
strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen. This I had observed 
repeatedly in other parts before. I had attacks of fever 
of the intermittent type again and again, in consequence 
of repeated drenchings in these unhealthy spots. 

On the 11th and 12th we were detained by incessant 
rains, and so heavy I never saw the like in the south. I 
had a little tapioca and a small quantity of Libonta meal, 
which I still reserved for worse times. The patience of 
my men under hunger was admirable ; the actual want of 
the present is never so painful as the thought of getting 
nothing in the future. We thought the people of some 
large hamlets very niggardly and very independent of their 
chiefs, for they gave us and Manenko nothing, though they 
had large fields of maize in an eatable state around them. 
When she went and kindly begged some for me, they gave 
her five ears only. They were subjects of her uncle, and, 
had they betm Makololo, would have been lavish in thcii 
gifts to the niece of their chief. 1 suspected that tho;j 



164 DENSE FORESTS. 

were dependents of some of Sliintc's principal moHj and 
had no ])owcr to pai-i Avith tlio niaizo of their masters. 

The ibrests became more dense as we Avent north. We 
Lravellcd much more in the deep gloom of the forest than 
la open sunhght. Ko passage existed on citlier sido of the 
narrow path made by the axe. Large climbing plants 
entwined themselves around the trunks and branches of 
gigantic trees like boa-constrictors, and they often do con- 
strict the trees by vrhicli they rise, and, killing them, stand 
erect themseh^es. The bark of a fine tree found in abun- 
dance here, and called '^motuia/' is used by the Earotse for 
making fish-lines and nets, and the "molorapi," so vreil 
adapted for paddles b}' its lightness and flexibillly, Avas 
abundant. There were ether trees quite new to my com- 
panions: many of them ran up to a height of fifty feet of 
one thickness, and without branches. 

In these forests we first encountered the artificial bee- 
hives so common!}' met Avith all the Avay from this to 
Angola. They consist of about five feet of the bark of a 
tree fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter. Tavo incisions 
arc made right round the tree at points five feet apart, 
then one longitudinal slit from one of these to the other; 
the Avorknian next lifts up the bark on each side of this slit, 
and detaches it from the trunk, taking care not to break it, 
until the whole comes from the tree. The elasticity of tho 
bavk makes it assume the form it had before; the slit is 
sewed or pegged up Avith Avooden pins, and ends made of 
coiled grass rope arc inserted, one of Avhich has a hole for 
tuo ingress of tho bees in the centre, and the hive is coin« 
picto. These hives arc placed in a horizontal position on 
high trees in different parts of the forest, and in this way 
all tliu Avax exported from Eenguela and Loanda is col- 
lected. It is all the produce of free labor. A "piece of 
medicine" is tied round the trunk of the tree, and pnn'cs 
sufficient protection against thieves. The natives seldom 
rob etich other, for all belieA^c that certain medicine*^ can 
inflict disease and death* and^ though thoy consider <h^ 



NATURAL WELLS. 161 

those arc onlj^ known to a few, they act on the principle 
that it is best to let them all alone. The gloom of these 
forests strengthens the superstitious feelings of the peo])lo. 
In other quarters, where they are not subjected to this 
influence, 1 have heard the chiefs issue iiroclamations to 
the effect that real witchcraft-medicines had been placed at 
certain gardens from which produce had been stolen, the 
thieves having risked the power of the ordinary charms 
previously placed there. 

There w^as considerable pleasure, in spite of rain and 
fever, in this new scenery. The deep gloom contrasted 
strongly Avith the shadeless glare of the Kalahari, which 
had left an indelible impression on my memory. Though 
drenched day by day at this time, and for months after- 
ward, it was long before I could believe that we were 
getting too much of a good thing. Nor could I look at 
water being thrown away without a slight, quick impres- 
63 on flitting across the mind that wc were guilty of wast- 
in,^ it. Every now and then wo emerged from the deep 
gloom into a pretty little valley, having a damp portion in 
the middle ; which, though now filled with water, at other 
times contains moisture enough for wells only. These wells 
have shades put over them in the form of little huts. 

We crossed, in canoes, a little never-failing stream, which 
passes by the name of Lefuje, or ^' the rapid.'' It comes 
from a goodly high mountain, called Monakadzi, (the 
woman,) which gladdened our cjg8 as it rose to our sight 
about twenty or thirty miles to the east of our course. It 
18 of an oblong shape, and seemed at least eight hundred 
feet above the plains. The Lefuje probably derives its 
name from the rapid descent of the short course it has to 
flow from Monakadzi to the Leeba. 

The number of little villages seemed about equal to the 
nuniber of valleys. At some we stopped and rested, the 
people bcco^ning more liberal as we advanced. Others we 
found desertoS^ sudden panic having seized the inhabit- 
aDts, thDugh thcXjium of Nanenko was kept beaten prntty 



166 LENDING ROOFS OF HUTS. 

constantly, in order to give notice of the approach of great 
people. When we had decided to remain for the night at 
any village, the inhabitants lent us the roofs of their hute, 
which in form resemble those of the Makololo, or a ChiLa-' 
man's hat, and can be taken off the walls at pleasuro. 
They lifted them off, and brought them to the spot we had 
8 3lected as our lodging, and, when my men had propped 
them up with stakes, they were then safely housed for the 
Dight. Every one who comes to salute either Manenko or 
ourselves rubs the upper parts of the arms and chest with 
asheb; those who wish to show profounder reverence put 
some also on the face. 

We found that every village had its idols near it. This 
is the case all through the country of the Balonda, so that, 
when we came to an idol in the woods, we always knew 
that we were within a quarter of an hour of human habi- 
tations. One very ugly idol we passed rested on a hori- 
zontal beam placed on two upright posts. This beam was 
furnished with two loops of cord, as of a chain, to suspend 
offerings before it On remarking to my companions that 
these idols had ears, but that they heard not, &c., I learned 
that the Balonda, and even the Barotse, believe that divina- 
tion may be performed by means of these blocks of wood 
and clay; and, though the wood itself could not hear, the 
owners had medicines by which it could be made to hear 
and give responses, so that if an enemy were approaching 
they would have full information. Manenko having brought 
us to a stand on account of slight indisposition and a desire 
to send forward notice of our approach to her uncle, 1 
asked why it was necessary to send forward information 
of our movements if Shinte had idols who could tell hira 
ovcry thing. ^^ She did it only/'* was the reply. It is 
seldom of much use to show one who worships idols the 
folly of idolatry without giving something else as an object 



* This is a curious African idiom, by which a person implies he had do 
particular reason for his act. 



MANENKO'S WHIMS. 167 

of adoration instead. They io not love thorn. They fear 
them, and betake themselves to their idols oiJy when in 
perplexity and danger. 

While delayed, by Manenko's management, among the 
Balonda villages, a little to the south of the town cf 
Shinte, we were well supplied by the villagers with sweet 
potatoes and green maize : Sambanza went to his mother's 
village for supplies of other food. I was laboring under 
fever, and did not find it very difficult to exercise patience 
with her whims; but, it being Saturday, I thought we 
might as well go to the town for Sunday, (15th.) " 'No : 
her messenger must return from her uncle first." Being 
sure that the answer of the uncle would be favorable, 1 
thought we might go on at once, and not lose two days in 
the same spot. "ISTo : it is our custom;" and every thing 
else I could urge was answered in the genuine pertinacious 
lady style. She ground some meal for me with her ovm 
hands, and when she brought it told me she had actually 
gone to a village and begged corn for the purpose. She 
said this with an air as if the inference must be drawn by 
even a stupid white man, ^^I know how to manage, don't 
I V It was refreshing to get food which could be eaten 
without producing the unpleasantness described by the 
Rev. John Newton, of St. Mary's, Woolnoth, London, 
when obliged to eat the same roots while a slave in the 
West Indies. The day, (January 14th,) for a wonder, waa 
fair, and the sun shone, so as to allow us to dry our cloth- 
ing and other goods, many of which were mouldy and 
rotten from the long-continued damp. The guns rusted, 
in spite of being oiled every evening. 

On Sunday afternoon, messengers arrived from Shinto, 
expressing his approbation of the objects we had in view 
in our journey through the country, and that he was glad 
of the prospect of a way being opened by which white 
men might visit and allow him to purchase ornaments at 
pleasure. Manenko now threatened in sport to go on, and 
I soon after vard perceived that what now seemed to me 



168 MODE OF APiaO ACHING VILLAGES. 

the dilly-dallying way of <;liis lady was tne proper mode 
of making acquaintance with the Balonda; and much of 
the favor with which I was received in different places 
was OAving to my sending forvvard messengers to state tlie 
object of our coming before entering each town and vil- 
lage. When we came in sight of a village, we sat down 
under tlie shade of a tree and sent forward a man to give 
Dotice who we were and what were our objects. The head- 
man of the village then sent out his princijDal men, as 
Shinte now did, to bid us welcome and show us a treo 
under which we might sleep. Before I had profited by the 
rather tedious teaching of Manenko, I sometimes entered 
a village and created unintentional alarm. The villagers 
would continue to look upon us with suspicion as long as 
we remained. Shinte sent us two large baskets of manioc 
and six dried fishes. His men had the skin of a monkey, 
called in their tongue "poluma," {Colobus guereza,) of a jet- 
black color, except the long mane, which is pure white : it 
is said to be found in the north, in the country of Mati- 
amvo, the paramount chief of all the Balonda. We 
learned from them that they are in the habit of praying 
to their idols when unsuccessful in killing game or in any 
other enterprise. They behaved with reverence at our re- 
ligious services. This will appear important if the reader 
remembers the almost total want of prayer and reverence 
we encountered in the south. ^ 

Our friends informed us that Shinte would be highly 
honored by the presence of three white men in his town 
at once. Two others had sent forward notice of their ap- 
proach from another quarter, (the west;) could it be Barth 
or Krapf ? IIow pleasant to meet with Europeans in such 
an out-of-the-way region ! The rush of thoughts made ma 
almost forget my fever. Are they of the same color as I 
am? ^' Yes; exactly so.'' And have the same hair? "Is 
that hair? we thought it was a wig; we never saw the 
like before: this white man must be of the sort that livea 
ib the sea." Henceforth my men took the hint, and alwayi 



A MERMAN. 16^ 

sonnded my prr\ise8 as a true specimen of the variety of 
white men who live in the sea. ^'Only look at his hair j it 
is made quite straight by the sea-water !'' 

I explained to them again and again that, when it was 
said we came out of the sea, it did not mean that we came 
from beneath the water; but the fiction has been widely 
spread in the interior by the Mambari that the real white 
n.en 11; c in the sea, and the myth was too good not to bo 
taken advantage of by my companions : so, notwithstand- 
ing my injunctions, I believe that, when I was out of hear- 
ing, my men always represented themselves as led by a 
genuine merman : ^' Just sec his hair !'^ If I returned from 
walking to a little distance, they would remark of some to 
whom they had been holding forth, '' These people want tc 
see your hair." 

As the strangers had woolly hair like themselves. I had 
to give up the idea of meeting any thiug more European 
than two half-caste Portuguese engaged in trading tor 
slaves, ivor}', and bees'-wax. 

IQth. — After a short march we came to a most lovely valley 
about a mile and a half wide, and stretching away cast- 
ward up to a low prolongation of Monakadzi. A small 
stream meanders down the centre of this pleasant green 
glen; and on a little rill, which flows into it from the 
western side, stands the town of Kabompo, or, as lie likca 
best to be called, Shinte. (Lat. 12° 37' 35" S., long. 22° 
47' E.) When Manenko thought the sun was high enough 
for us to make a lucky entrance, we found the town em- 
bowered in banana and other tropical trees having groat 
expansion of leaf; the streets are straight, and present a 
complete contrast to those of the Bcchuanas, which are all 
very tortuous. Here, too, wc first saw native huts with 
S][uare walls and round roofs. Goats were browsing about, 
and, when we made our appearance, a croAvd of ne^oes, 
all fully armed, ran toward us as if thoy would eat us up; 
some had guns, but the manner in which they Avere held 
showed that the owners were more accustomed to bowg 

15 I 



J 70 SLAVE TRADERS. 

and arrows than to white men's weapons. After suryounA 
ing and stai-ing at us for an hour, they began to disperse. 

The two native Portuguese traders of whom we had licard 
had erected a little encampment opposite the place where 
ours was about to be made. One of them, whose spine 
had Deen injured in youth, — a rare sight in this country, — 
came and visited us. I returned the visit next morning. 
Tlis tall companion had that sickly yellow hue Avhich made 
him look fairer than myself, but his head was covered with 
a crop of unmistakable wool. They had a gang of young 
female slaves in a chain, hoeing the ground in front of their 
encampment to clear it of weeds and grass ; these were 
purchased recently in Lobale, whence the traders had now 
•^ome. There were many Mambari with them, and tho 
establishment was conducted with that military order which 
pervades all the arrangements of the Portuguese colonists. 
A drum was beaten and trumpet sounded at certain hours, 
quite in military fashion. It was the first time most of my 
men had seen slaves in chains. " They are not men," they 
exclaimed, (meaning, they are beasts,) ^^who treat their 
children so." 

The Balonda are real negroes, having much more woo) 
on their heads and bodies than any of the Bechuana ot 
Caffre tribes. They are generally very dark in color, but 
several are to be seen of a lighter hue; many of tho slaves 
who have been exported to Brazil have gone from this 
region ; but, while they have a general similarity to the 
typical negro, I never could, from my own observation, 
think that our ideal negro, as seen in tobacconists' shops, 
is the true type. A large proportion of the Balonda, indeed, 
have heads somewhat elongated backward and upAvard, 
thick lips, flat noses, elongated ossa calces, &c. &c.; but thei-e 
lire also many good-looking, well-shaped heads and persons 
among them. 

llth, Tuesday.— -Wq were honored with a grand recep 
tion by Shirte about eleven o'clock. Sambanza claimed 
the honor of presenting us, Manenko being slightly indis- 



RECEPTION SY SHINTE 171 

posed The native Portuguese and Marabari went fally 
armed with guns, in order to give Shinte a salute, their 
drummer and trumpeter making all the noise that very 
old instruments would produce. The kotia, or place of 
uudience, was about a hundred yards square, and two 
graceful specimens of a species of banian stood near ono 
end; under one of these sat Shinte, on a sort of throne 
covered with a leopard's skin. He had on a checked 
jacket and a kilt of scarlet baize edged with green; many 
strings of large beads hung from his neck, and his limbs 
were covered wi\h iron and copper armlets and bracelets, 
on his head he wore a helmet made of beads woven neatly 
together and crowned with a great bunch of goose-featJiers. 
Close to him sat three lads v/ith large sheaves of arrows 
over their shoulders. 

When we entercvx the kotla, the whole of Manenko's 
party saluted Shinte by clapping their hands, and Sam- 
banza did obeisance by rubbing his chest and arms with 
ashes. One of the trees being unoccupied, I retreated to 
it for the sake of the shade, and my whole party did the 
same. We were now aboat forty yards from the cliief, 
and could see the whole ceremony. The diflcrent sections 
of the tribe came forward in the same way that we did, 
the head-man of each making obeisance with ashes which 
he carried with him for the purpose ; then came the sol- 
diers, all armed to the teeth, running and shouting toward 
us, with their swords drawn and their faces screwed up so 
as to api^ear as savage as possible, for the purj^osc, I 
thought, of trying whether they could not make us take to 
our heels. As we did not, they turned round toward 
Shinte and saluted him, then retired. When all had come 
and were seated, then began the curious capering usually 
seen in pichos. A man starts up, and imitates the most 
approved attitudes observed in actual fight, as throwing 
one javelin, receiving another on the shield, springing to 
one side to avoid a third, running backvvard or forward, 
leaping, &c. This over, Sambanza and the spokesman of 



172 RECEPTION BT SHINTT 

NyaraOcana stalked backward and foi'ward in front of 
Shinto, and ^-uvc l"ort!i, in a loud voieCj all tlicy had b(;cn 
able to learn, either from myself or people, of my past his- 
tory and connection with the ]\J.akololo; the return of th 
captives; the Avish to open the country to trade; the IVible 
as a word from heaven; the white man's desire for the 
tribes to live in peace: ho ought to have taught the ]Ma- 
kololo that first, for the Ealonda never attacked them, yet 
they had assailed the Ealonda : perhaps he is libbing, per- 
haps not : they rather thought he was ; but as the Ealonda 
had good hearts, and Shinto had never done harm to any 
one, he had better receive the white man well, and send 
liim on his way, Sambanza Avas gajiy attired, and, be- 
Bides a profusion of beads, had a cloth so long that a boy 
carried it after him as a train. 

Eehind Shinte sat about a hundred women, elol;hed in 
their best, which happened to be a profusion of red baize 
The chief wife of Shinte, one of the Matebelo or Zulus, sat 
in front with a curious red cap on her head. During the 
intervals between the speeches, these ladies burst forth 
into a sort of plaintive ditty; but it was impossible for any 
of us to catch whether it was in praise of the speaker, of 
Shinte, or of themselves. This w^as the first time I had 
ever seen females present in a public assembly. In the 
fiouth the women are no^ permitted to enter the kotia, 
and, even when invited to come to a religious service there, 
would not enter until ordered to do so by the chief; but 
here they expressed their apj..*obation by clapping their 
bands and laughing to different speakers; and Shinte fre- 
quently turned round and spoke to them. 

A party of musicians, consisting of three drummers and 
four performers on the piano, went round the kotla several 
times, regaling us with their music. Their drums aro 
neatly carved from the trunk of a tree, and have a small 
hole in the side covered with a bit of spider's web : tho 
ends aro covered with the skin of an antelope pegged on ; 
and, when they wish to tighten it, tucy hold it to the fire 



MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. 173 

to TTittko it contract: the instruments arc beaten wilh the 
hands. 

The piano, named ^'marimba/' consists of two bars of 
wood phiced side .by side, here quite straight, but, iarthci 
north, bent round so as to resemble lialf the tire of a car- 
riage- a' ii eel ; across these are phi(;ed about fifteen wooden 
koys, each of which is two or three inches broad and 
fifteen or eigliteen inches long; their thickness is regu- 
lated according to the deepness of the note required : each 
of the Iceys has a calabash beneath it; fi-oni the upper part 
of each a portion is cut off to enable them to embrace tlio 
bars, and form hollow sounding-boards to the keys, which 
also are of different sizes, according to the note required; 
and little drumsticks elicit the music. Rapidity of execu- 
tion seems much admired among them, and the music is 
pleasant to the ear. In Angola the Portuguese use the 
marimba in their dances. 

Wiien nine speakers had concluded their orations, Shinto 
stood up, and so did all the people. He Imd maintained 
true African dignity of manner all the while, but my 
people remarked that he scarcely ever took l\is ejxs off me 
for a moment. About a thousand people were present, 
according to my calculation, and three hundred soldiers. 
The sun had now become hot; and the scene ended by the 
Mambari discharjxins; their u-uns. 

ISth. — Wo were awakened during the night by a messago 
from Shinto, requesting a visit at a very unseasonable hour 
As I was just in the sweating-stage of an intermittent, and 
the path to the town lay through a wet valle}'-, I declined 
going. Ivolimbota, who knows their customs best, urged 
mo to go; but, independent of sickness, I hated Avords of 
the right and deeds of darkness. ^'1 was neitlier a hyena 
nor a witch." Koiimbota thoutjht that we ou£>-ht to con- 
forin to their wishes in everything: I thought we ought 
to have some choice in the nnittor as well, which ]uit him 
into higli dudgeon. However, at ten next morning we 
went, and were led into the courts of Shinto, the walls of 



174 PRIVATE INTERVIEW WITH SHINTE. 

which were woven rods, all very neat and high. M\^)y 
trees stood within the enclosure and afforded a giateful 
shade. These had been planted, for we saw some recently 
put in, with grass wound round the trunk to protect them 
from the sun. The otherwise waste corners of the stieets 
were planted with sugarcane and bananas, which spread 
their large light leaves over the walls. 

The Ficus Indica tree, under which we now sat, had 
very large leaves, but showed its relationship) to the Indian 
banian by sending down shoots toward the ground. Shinte 
soon came, and appeared a man of upward of fifty-five 
years of age, of frank and open countenance, and about 
the middle height. He seemed in good humor, and said he 
had expected yesterday " that a man who came from the 
gods would have approached and talked to him." That 
had been my own intention in going to the reception ; but 
when Ave came and saiv the formidable preparations, and 
all his own men keeping at least forty yards off from him, 
I yielded to the solicitations of my men, and remained by 
the tree opposite to that under which he sat. His remark 
confirmed my previous belief that a frank, open, fearless 
manner is the most winning with all these Africans. I 
stated the object of my journey and mission, and to all 1 
advanced the old gentleman clapped his hands in approba- 
tion. He replied through a spokesman; then all the com- 
pany joined in the response by clapping of hands too. 

After the more serious business was over, I asked 
if he had ever seen a w^iito man before. He replied, 
^' Never : you are the very first I have seen with a w^hit-e 
skin and straight hair : your clothing, too, is different from 
any we have ever seen/' They had been visited by native 
Portuguese and Mambari only. 

On learning from some of the people that ^^Shinte'n 
mouth was bitter for want of tasting ox-flesh," I presented 
him with an ox, to his great delight; and, as his country 
is so well adapted for cattle, I advised him to begin a trade 
in cows with the Makololo. He was pleased with the idea, , 



I 



FERTILITY OF SOIL. 175 

«.D.d when we returned from Loanda wc found that he had 
profited by the hint, for he had got three, and one of them 
justified my opinion of the country, for it was more Uko a 
piizo-heifer for fatness than any we had seen in Africa. 
He soon afterward sent us a basket of green maize boiled; 
a-sother of manioc-meal, and a small fowl. 

During this time Manenko had been extremely busy 
with all her people in getting up a very pretty hut and 
court-yard, to be, as she said, her residence always when 
white men were brought by her along the same path. 
When she heard that we had given an ox to her uncle, 
she came forward to us with the air of one wronged, and 
explained that 'Hhis white man belonged to her; she had 
brought him here, and therefore the ox was hers, not 
Shintc's." She ordered her men to bring it, got it slaugh- 
tered by them, and presented her uncle with a leg only. 
Siiinte did not seem at all annoyed at the occurrence. 

19th. — I was awakened at an early hour by a messenger 
from Shinte ; but, the thirst of a raging fever being just 
assuaged by the bursting forth of a copious perspiration, I 
declined going for a few hours. Violent action of the 
aeart all the way to the town did not predispose me to bo 
patient with the delay which then occurred, probably on 
account of the divination being unfavorable : — "They could 
not find Shinte." When I returned to bed, another mes- 
sage was received : — " Shinte wished to say all he had to 
tell me at once." This was too tempting an offer; so wo 
went, and he had a fowl ready in his hand to present, also 
a basket of manioc-meal, and a calabash of mead. Refer- 
ring to the constantly-recurring attacks of fever, he re- 
marked that it w^as the only thing which would prcveni 
a successful issue to mj^ journey, for he had men lo guide 
me who knew all the paths which led to the white men. 
Uq had himself travelled far when a young man. On 
asking Avhat ho would recommend for the fever, "DiinU 
plenty of the mead, and as it gets in it will drive the fever 
out." It was rather strong, and 1 suspect ho liked the 



176 KII^NAPPINQ 

remedy pretty well, eTen thougli he had no fever, fte had 
ftlwMy.s been a friend to Sebituane; and, now that liis son 
Sekcletti was in his place, Shinte was not merely a friend, 
but a father lo him; and if a son asks a favor the fathei 
niiKst give it. lie was highly pleased with the large cala- 
bashes of clarified butter and fat which Sekeletu had sent 
iiim, and wished to detain Kolimbota, that he might send 
a })resent back to JSekeletu by his hands. This proposition 
we afterward discovered was Kolimbota's own, as he had 
heard sc much about the ferocity of the tribes tlirough 
which we were to pass that he wished to save his skin. 
It will be seen farther on that he Avas the only one of our 
party who returned with a wound. 

An incident wliich occurred while we were here may be 
mentioned, as of a character totally unknown in the south 
Two children, of seven and eight years old, went out to 
colk^ct firewood a sliort distance from their parents' home, 
which was a quarter of a mile from the village, and Averc 
kidnapped; the distracted parents could not find a trace of 
them. This happened so close to the tOAvn, where there 
are no beasts of prey, that we suspect some of the high 
men of Sliinte's court were the guilty parties: they can 
sell them by night. The Mambari erect large huts of a 
square shape to stow these stolen ones in ; they are well fed, 
but aired b}' night only. The frequent kidnapping from 
oiUlyi'.ig hamlets explains the stockades we saw around 
them : the parents have no redress, for even Shinto hm.self 
socjns fond of workino; in the dark. One nii>:ht he sent for 
me, though I always stated I liked all my dealings to be 
aboveboard. AVbon I came, he presented mo with a sla\e- 
girl about ten years old : he said he had always been in (he 
hubit ot presenting his visitors with a child. On my 
thanking him, and saying that I thought it wrong to tiikc 
away children fiom their parents, that I wished him to 
give up this svsteni altogether and trade in cattle, ivoiy, 
and bees' wax, he urged that she was 'Ho be a child" to 
bring mo water, and that a great man ought to liave a 



MAGIC LANTERN. t77 

child for the purpose, yet I had none. As I replied that 1 
had four children, and should be very sorry if my chief wero 
to take my little girl and give her away, and that 1 would 
prefer this child to remain and carry water for her own 
mother, he thought I was dissatisfied with her size, and 
sent for one a head taller. After many explanations of our 
abhorrence of slavery, and how displeasing it must be to 
God to see his children selling one another and giving each 
other so much grief as this child's mother must feel, I 
declined her also. If I could have taken her into my family 
for the purpose of instruction, and then returned her as a 
free woman, according to a promise I should have made to 
the parents, I might have done so; but to take her away, 
and probably never be able to secure her return, would have 
produced no good effect on the minds of the Balonda ; they 
would not then have seen evidence of our hatred to slavery, 
and the kind attentions of my friends would, as it almost 
always does in similar cases, have turned the poor thing's 
head. 

Shinto was most anxious to see the pictures of the magic 
(antern ; but fever had so weakening an effect, and I had 
Buch violent action of the heart, with buzzing in the ears, 
that I could not go for several days; when I did go for the 
purpose he had his principal men and the same crowd of 
court beauties near him as at the reception. The first 
picture exhibited was Abraham about to slaughter his son 
Isaac : it was shown as large as life, and the uph'fted knife 
was in the act of striking the lad; the Balonda men re- 
marked that the picture was much more like a god than 
the things of wood and clay they worshipped. I explained 
that this man was the first of a race to whom God had 
given the Bible we now held, and that among his childroD 
our Savior appeared. The ladies listened with silent awe; 
but, when I moved the slide, the uplifted dagger mDving 
toward them, they thought it was to be sheathed in their 
bo<lies instead of Isaac's. " Mother ! mother I" all shouted 
at once, and off they rushed, h>lter-skclter, tumbling pell 
M 



178 DELAY — HEAVY RAINS. 

mclJ OTor 3ach other, and over the little idol-hut8 and 
tobacco-bushes; we could not get one of them back again. 
Sliintc, however, sat bravely through the whole, and after- 
ward examined the instrument with interest. An explana- 
tion was always added after each time of showing its 
powers, so that no one should imagine there was angh( 
supernatural in it ; and had Mr. Murray, who kindly brought 
it from England, seen its popularity among both Makololo 
and iJalonda, he would have been gratified with the direc- 
tion his generosity then took. It was the only mi)de of 
instinieiion I was ever pressed to repeat. The peopr." came 
long distances for the express purpose of seeing the objects 
and heating the explanations. 

One ciumot get away quickly from these chiefs; they 
Hke to h.'ive the honor of strangers residino^ in their vil- 
lages. IleTC we had an additional cause of delay in fre- 
quent rains : twenty -four hours never elapsed without 
heavy show<7rs; every thing is affected by the dampness; 
surgical instruments become all rusty, clothing mildewed, 
and shoes moxildy; my little tent Avas now so rotten and so 
full of small holes that everj^ smart shower caused a fine 
mist to descend on my blanket, and made me fain to cover 
the head with it. Heavy dews lay on cver}^ thing in the 
morning, even inside the tent; there is only a short time 
of sunshine in the afternoon, and even that is so interrupted 
by thunder-showers that we cannot dry our bedding. 

The winds coming from the north always bring heavy 
clouds and rain; in the south, the only heavy rains noticicd 
arc those which come from the northeast or east. The 
thermometer falls as low as 72° when there is no sunshine, 
ihough, when the weather is fair, the protected thermo- 
meter generally rises as high as 82° even in the mornings 
ard evenings. 

2ith. — We expected to have started to-day; but Sambanza, 
«rho had been sent off early in the morning for guides, re- 
turned at mid-day without them, and drunk. As far as we 
oould coll ^ct from his incoherent sentences, Shintc had said 



FAREWELL TO SHINTE. 179 

the rain was too heavy for our departure, and the gaiden 
still required time for preparation. Shinte himself was 
busy getting some meal ready for my use in the journey. 
As it rained nearly ail day, it was no sacrifice to submit to 
his advice and remain. Sambanza staggered to Manenko's 
hut: she, however, who had never promised ^^to love, 
honor, and obey him," had not been " nursing her wrath 
to keep it warm ;" so she coolly bundled him into the hut, 
and put him to bed. 

As the last proof of friendship, Shinte came into my tent, 
though it could scarcely contain more than one person, 
looked at all the curiosities, the quicksilver, the looking- 
glass, books, hair-brushes, comb, watch, &c. &c., with the 
greatest interest; then, closing the tent, so that none of his 
own people might see the extravagance of Avhich he was 
about to be guilty, he drew out from his clothing a string 
of beads and the end of a conical shell, which is consi- 
dered, in regions far from the sea, of as great value as the 
Lord Mayor's badge is in London. He hung it round my 
neck, and said, ^^ There, now you liave a proof of my friend- 
ship.'' 

Mj men informed me that these shells are so highly 
valued in this quarter, as evidences of distinction, that for 
two of them a slave might be bought, and five would be 
considered a handsome price for an elephant's tusk worth 
ten pounds. At our last interview old Shinte pointed out 
our principal guide, Intemese, a man about fifty, who was, 
he said, ordered to remain by us till we shouW reach the 
sea; that I bad now left Sekeletu far behind, and must 
henceforth look to Shinte alone for aid, and that it would 
always be most cheerfully rendered. This was only a 
polite way of expressing his wishes for vny success. It was 
the good words only of the guides which were to aid me 
from the next chief, Katema, on to the sea; they were to 
turn back on reaching him ; but he gave a good siq^ply of 
food for the journey before us, and, after mentioning as a 
reason for letting us go even now that no one could say 



ISO MANIOC-GARDENS. 

tbat wc had been driven away from the town, since we had 
been several days with him, be gave a most hearty saluta- 
tion, and wo parted with the wish that God might bleae 
blm. 



CHAPTEE XYII. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE PASSES THROUGH LONDA AND VISITS 

KATEMA. 

26tk. — ^Leaving Shinte, with eight of his men to aid in 
carrying our luggage, wo passed, in a northerly direction, 
down the lovely valley on which the town stands, then 
went a little to the west through pretty open forest, and 
slept at a village of Ealonda. In the morning we had a 
fine range of green hills, called Saloisho, on our right, and 
were informed that they were rather thickly inhabited 
by the people of Shinte, who worked in iron, the ore of 
which abounds in these hills. 

The country through which we passed possessed the same 
general character of flatness and forest that we noticed 
before The soil is dark with a tinge of red — in some 
places it might be called red — and appeared very fertile 
Every valley contained villages of twenty or thirty huts, 
with gardens of manioc, which here is looked upon as the 
staff of life. Yery little labor is required for its cultiva» 
tion The earth is drawn up into oblong beds, about three 
feet broad and one in height, and in these are planted 
pieces of the manioc-stalk, at four feet apart A crop of 
beans or groundnuts is so^vn between them, and when 
these are reaped the land around the manioc is cleared of 
weeds In from ten to eighteen months after planting, ac- 
cording to the quality of the soil, the roots are fit for food. 
There is no necessity for reaping soon, as the roots do not 
become bitter and dry until after three years. AYhen a 



VILLAGES BEYOND THE LONAJB 181 

woman lakes up the roots, slie thrusts a piece or two of 
tie upper stalks into the hole she has made, draws back 
the soil, and a new crop is thereby begun. The plant grows 
to a height of six feet, and every part of it is useful j the 
loaves may be cooked as a vegetable. The roots are from 
three to four inches in diameter, and from twelve to 
eighteen inches long. 

There are two varieties of the manioc or cassava, — on« 
Bwcct and wholesome, the other bitter and containing 
poison^ but much more speedy in its growth than the 
former This last property causes its perpetuation. 

Our chief guide, Intemese, sent orders to all the villages 
around our route that Shintc's friends must have abundance 
of provisions. Our progress was impeded by tL^ time re- 
quisite for communicating the chiefs desire and consequent 
preparation of meal. We received far more food from 
Shintc's people than from himself. Kapende, for instance, 
presented two largo baskets of meal, three of manioc-ioots 
Bteeped and dried in the sun and ready to be converted 
into flour, three fowls, and seven eggs, with three smoke- 
dried fishes ; and others gave with similar liberality. 1 
gave to the head-men small bunches of my stock of beads, 
with an apology that we were now on our way to tne 
market for these goods. The present was always politely 
received. 

After crossing the Lonaje, we came to some pretty vil- 
lages, embowered, as the negro villages usually are, in 
bar anas, shrubs, and manioc, and near the banks of tho 
Leeba we formed our encampment in a nest of serpents, 
one of which bit one of our men ; but the wound wad 
harmless. The people of the surrounding villages pro- 
sen ted us with large quantities of food, in obedience to 
the mandate of Shinte, without expecting any equivalent 
One village had lately been transferred hither from the 
country of Matiamvo. They, of course, continue to ao- 
knowledge him as paramount chief; but the frequent in- 
Btancfifl which occur of people changing from one part o( 



1S2 CROSSING THE LEEBa 

the country to another show that the great chiefs possess 
only a limited power. The only peculiarity we ohseiTcd in 
these people is the hahit of plaiting the beard into a three- 
fold cord. 

The town of the Balonda chief Cazembe was pointed 
out to us as lying to the N.E. and by E. from the town ol 
Shinte, and great numbers of people in this quarter have 
gone thither for the purpose of j)urchasing copper anklets, 
made at Cazembe' s, and report the distance to be about fiv^e 
days' journey. 

It took us about four hours to cross the Leeba, which is 
considerably smaller here than where we left it, — indeed, 
only about a hundred yards wide. It has the same dark 
mossy hue. The villagers lent us canoes to effect our pass- 
age ; and, having gone to a village about two miles beyond 
the river, I had the satisfaction of getting observations for 
both longitude and latitude, — for the former, the distance 
between Saturn and the moon, and for the latter, a meridian 
altitude of Canopus. Long. 22° 57' E., lat. 12° 6' 6" S. 

Here we were surprised to hear English cotton cloth 
much more eagerly inquired after than beads and orna- 
ments. They are more in need of clothing than the Bo- 
chuana tribes living adjacent to the Kalahari Desert, who 
have plenty of skins for the purpose. Animals of all kinds 
are rare here, and a very ,mall piece of calico is of great 
value. 

As the people on the banks of the Leeba were the last 
of Shinte's tribe over which Intemese had power, he wat* 
naturally anxious to remain as long as possible. He was 
aot idle, but made a large wooden mortar and pestle for 
his wife during our journey. He also carved maii}^ wooden 
spoons and a bowl; then commenced a basket; bat, as 
what ho considered good living was an}'^ thing but agreeable 
to us, who had been accustomed to milk and maize, we went 
forward on the 2d without him. He soon followed, but left 
our pontoon, saying it would be brought by the hcad-raau 
of the village. This was a great loss, as we afterward 



PLAINS COVERED WITH WATER. 183 

found : it remained at this village more thai a year, and, 
yjrhcn we retarned, a mouse had eaten a hole in it. 

We entered on an extensive plain beyond the Leoba, ai 
least twenty miles broad, and covered with water ankle 
deep in the shallowest parts. We deviated somewhat from 
our !N.\Y course, by the direction of Intemese, ai:d kepi 
the hills Piri nearly on our right during a great part of 
the first day, in order to avoid the still more deeply-flooded 
plains of Lobale (Luval?) on the west. These, according 
to Intemese, are at present impassable on account of being 
ihigh deep. The plains are so perfectly level that rain- 
water, which this was, stands upon them for months together 
They were not flooded by the Leeba, for that was still fai 
within its banks. Here and there, dotted over the surface, 
are little islands, on which grow stunted date-bushes and 
scraggy trees. 

We made our beds on one of the islands, and were 
wretchedly supplied with firewood. The booths constructed 
by the men were but sorry shelter, for the rain poured 
down without intermission till mid-day. There is no drain- 
age for the prodigious masses of water on these plains, ex- 
cept slow percolation into the different feeders of the Leebu 
and into that river itself. The quantity of vegetation has 
prevented the country from becoming furrowed by many 
rivulets or "nullahs.'* Were it not so rcmarkabi}^ flat, the 
drainage must have been effected by torrents, even in spite 
of the matted vegetation. 

When released from our island by the rain ceasing, we 
marched on till we came to a ridge of dry inhabited land 
in the N.W. The inhabitants, according to custom, lent 
us the roofs of some huts to save the men the trouble of 
boothinaking. I suspect that the story in Park's " Travels," 
cf the men lifting up the hut to place it on the lion, referred 
to the roof only. We leave them for the villagers to replace 
at theii- leisure. No pajnnent is expected for the use of 
ihem. By night it rained so copiously that all our bedrt 
were flooded from below; and from this time forth we 



184 A HALT. 

b1 w&ys made a furrow round each booth, and used the eartk 
to raise our sleeping-places. My men turned out to work 
ir. the wet most willingl}^ : indeed, they always did. 1 
could not bat contrast their conduct with that of Intemesa 
He was thoroughly imbued with the slave-spirit, and lied 
on all occasions without compunction. Untruthfulness is 
A sort of refuge for the weak and oppressed. We expected 
to move on tho 4th, but he declared that we were so near 
Katema's, if we did not send forward to apprize that chief 
of our approach, he would certainly impose a fine. It 
rained the whole day, so we were reconciled to the delay ; 
but on Sunday, the 5th, he let us know that we were still 
two days distant from Katema. We unfortunately could 
not manage without him, for the country was so deluged 
we should have been brought to a halt, before we went 
many miles, by some deep valley, every one of which was 
full of water. Intemese continued to plait his basket with 
all his might, and would not come to our religious service. 
He seemed to be afraid of our incantations, but was always 
r.icrry and jocular. 

6th. — Soon after starting, we crossed a branch of the Loka- 
lueje by means of a canoe, and in the afternoon passed over 
tho main stream by a like conveyance. The former, as is 
the case with all branches of rivers in this country, is 
called nuana Kalueje, (child of the Kaluejc.) Hippopotami 
exist in the Lokalueje, so it may be inferred to be peren- 
nial, OS the inhabitants asserted. We cannot judge of the 
Bize of the stream from what we now saw. It had about 
forty yards of deep, fast-flowing water, but probably not 
more than half that amount in the dry season. Besides 
these, we crossed numerous feeders in our N.N.W. course, 
and, there being no canoes, got frequ-sntly wet in the course 
of the day. The oxen in some places had their heads only 
abo%'e watei, and the stream, flowing over their backs, 
wetted our blankets, which we used as saddles. The arm- 
pit was the only safe spot for carrying the watch, for thoi*c 
it was preserved from rains above and waters below Th® 



OMNIVOROUS FISH. 185 

men on foot crossed these gullies holding up tbeii bui'dena 
At arms' length. 

Great numbers of the omnivorous-feeding fish Glanis 
siluris, or mosala, spread themselves over the flooded plains, 
and; as the waters retire, try to find their way back again 
to the rivers. The Balonda make earthen dikes and 
hedges across the outlets of the retreating waters, leaving 
only small spaces through which .the chief part of the 
water flows. In these open spaces they plant creels, simi- 
lar in shape to our own, into which the fish can enter but 
cannot return. They secure large quantities of fish in 
this way, which, when smoke-dried, make a good relish for 
their otherwise-insipid food. They use also a weir of mats 
made of reeds sewed together, with but half an inch be- 
tween each. Open spaces are left for the insertion of the 
•jreels as before. 

In still water, a fish-trap is employed of the same shape 
and plan as the common round wire mouse-trap, which has 
an opening surrounded with wires pointing inward. This 
is made of reeds and supple wands, and food is jilaced 
inside to attract the fish. 

Besides these means of catching fish, they use a hook of 
iron without a barb; the point is bent inward instead, so 
as not to allow the fish to escape. Nets are not so common 
as in the Zouga and Leeambye ; but they kill large quan- 
tities of fishes by means of the bruised leaves of a shrub 
which may be seen planted beside every village in the 
country. 

On the 7th we came to the village of Soana Molopo, 
a half-brother of Katema, a few miles beyond the Lokt^ 
lueje. When we went to visit him, we found him sitting 
with about one hundred men. He called on Intomese to 
give some account of us, though no doubt it had been done 
in private before. He then pronounced the following sen- 
tences : — "The journey of the white man is very proper; 
but Shinte has disturbed us by showing the path to the 

MttkoJolo who accompany him. He ought to have taken 

16* 



186 OUR glide's perversity. 

iLem through tho country without showing them the 
towns. We arc afraid of the Makololo/' Ho then gav* 
as a handsome present of food, and seemed perplexed by 
my sitting down familiarl}^ and giving him a few of out 
ideas When we left, Intemese continued busily impart- 
ing an account of all we had given to Shinte and Masiko, 
and instilling the hope that Soana Molopo might obtain as 
much as they had received. Accordingly, when we ex- 
pected to move on the morning of the 8th, we got some 
hints about the ox which Soana Molopo expected to eat; 
but we recommended him to get the breed of cattle for 
himself, seeing his country was so well adapted for rearing 
stock. Intemese also refused to move : he, moreover, 
tried to frighten us into parting with an ox by saying 
that Soana Molopo w^ould send fo: ivard a message that we 
were a marauding-party; but we packed up and went on 
without him. We did not absolately need him ; but he 
was useful in preventing the inhabitants of secluded vil- 
lages from betaking themselves to flight. Wc wished to 
be on good terms with all, and therefore put up with our 
guide's peccadilloes. His good word respecting us had 
considerable influence, and he was always asked if we had 
behaved ourselves liKe men on the way. The Makololo 
are viewed as great savages; but Intemese could not 
justly look with scorn on them, for he has the mark of a 
large gash on his arm, got in fighting ; and he would never 
tell the cause of battle, but boasted of his powers* as the 
Makololo do, till asked about a scar on his back, betokeri- 
ing any thing but bravery. 

Intemese w^as useful in cases like that of Monday, when 
we came upon a whole village in a forest enjoying theif 
noonday nap. Our sudden appearance in their midst so 
terrified them that ono woman nearly went into con- 
vulsions from fear. When they saw and heard Intemese, 
their terror subsided. 

As usual, we were caugnt by rains after leaving Soana 
Uoloj^p's, and made our boothc at the house of Mozinkwa, 



MOZINKT^'A ANL HIS FAMILY 187 

it most intelligent and friendly man belonging to Kutcina. 
Ho had a fine large garden in cultivation; and well hedged 
round. lie had made tjje walls of his compound, or court* 
yard, of branches of the banian, which, taking root^ had 
grown to bo a live hedge of that tree. Mozinkwa's wife 
had- cotton growing all round her premises, and several 
plants used as relishes to the insipid porridge of the 
country. She cultivated also the common castor-oil plant, 
and a larger shrub {Jatropha curcas) which also yields a 
purgative oil. Here, however, the oil is used for anointing 
the heads and bodies alone. We saw in her garden like- 
wiuo the Indian bringalls, yams, and sweet j>otatoe8. 
Several trees were planted in the middle of the yard, and 
in the deep shade they gave stood the huts of his fine 
family. His children, all by one mother, very black, but 
CGoaely to view, were the finest negro family I ever saw. 
W B were much pleased with the frank friendship and 
lil»erality of this man and his w^ife. She asked me to bring 
her a cloth from the white man's country; but, when wo 
returned, poor Mozinkwa's wife was in her grave, and he, 
as is the custom, had abandoned trees, garden, and huts to 
ruin. They cannot live on a spot where a favorite wife 
has died, probably because unable to bear the remem- 
brance of the happy times they have spent there, or afraid 
to remain in a spot where death has once visited the esta- 
blishment. If ever the place is revisited, it is to pray to 
her or make some offering. This feeling renders any per- 
manent village in the country impossible. 

We learned from Mozinkwa that Soana Molopo was the 
elder brother of Katema, but that he was wanting in wis- 
dom j and Katema, by purchasing cattle and receiving in 
a kind manner all the fugitives who came to him, had 
secured the birthright to himself, so far as influence in the 
country is concerned. Soana' s first address to us did not 
savor much of African wisdom. 

Friday, lOth. — On leaving Mozinkwa's hospitable mansion, 
we crossed another stream, about forty yards wide, ia 



188 QUENDENDE'S POLIi^ENEStJ. 

ianoes. While this tedious process was going im^ I was in- 
fonncd that it is called the Mona-Kalueje, or brother oi 
Kalueje, as it flows into that river; that both the Kaluoja 
and Livoa flow into the Leebe ; and that the Chifumadze, 
swollen by the Lotembwa, is a feeder of that river also, 
below the point where we lately crossed it. 

As we were crossing the river, we were joined by a mes- 
senger from Katcma, called Shakatwala. This person was 
a sort of steward or factotum to his chief. Every chief has 
one attached to his person, and, though generally poor, 
they are invariably men of great shrewdness and ability. 
They act the part of messengers on all important occaoions, 
and possess considerable authority in the chief's house- 
hold. Shakatwala informed us that Katema had not re- 
ceived precise informa,tion about us, but if we were peaceably 
disposed, as he loved strangers, we were to come to his 
town. We proceeded forthwith, but were turned aside, by 
the strategy of our friend Intemese, to the village of 
Quendende, the father-in-law of Katema. This fine old 
man was so very polite that we did not regret being obliged 
to spend Sunday at his village. He expressed his pleasure 
at having a share in the honor of a visit as well as Katema, 
though it seemed to me that the conferring that pleasure 
required something like a pretty good stock of impudenco, 
in leading twenty-seven men through the country without 
the means of purchasing food. My men did a little busi- 
ness for themselves in the begging line : they generally 
commenced every interview with new villagers by saying, 
*'l have come from afar; give me something to eat.'' I 
forbade this at first, believing that, as the Makololo had a 
bad name, the villagers gave food from fear. But, after 
seme time, it was evident that in many cases maize and 
manioc were given from pure generosity. The first time 1 
came to this conclusion was at the house of Mozinkwa: 
scarcely any one of my men returned from it without 
Romcthing in his hand; and as they protested they had not 



CROP OF WOOL. 189 

begged, I asked himself, and found that it was tho case, 
a:id that he had given spontaneously. 

Quondende's head was a good specimea of the greatoi 
crop of wool with which the negroes of Londa are fur 
iiished. The front was parted in the middle, and plaited 
Into two thick rolls, which, falling down behind the ears, 
reached the shoulders : the rest was collected into a large 
knot, which lay on the nape of the neck. As he was an 
intelligent man, we had much conversation together: he 
had just come from attending the funeral of one of his 
people, and I found that the great amount of drum-beating 
which takes place on these occasions was with the idea 
that the Barimo, or spirits, could be drummed to sleep. 
There is a drum in every village, and we often hear it going 
from sunset to sunrise. They seem to look upon the do- 
parted as vindictive beings, and, I suspect, are more in- 
fluenced by fear than by love. In beginning to speak on 
religious subjects with those who have never heard of Chris- 
tianity, the great fact of the Son of God having come down 
from heaven to die for us is the prominent theme. No fact 
more striking can be mentioned. "He actually came to 
men. He himself told us about his Father and the dwell- 
ing-place whither he has gone. We have his words in this 
book, and he really endured punishment in our stead from 
pure love," &c. If this fails to interest them, nothiag else 
will succeed. 

We here met with some people just arrived fr.)m the 
town of Matiamvo, (Muata yanvo,) who had been rent to 
announce the death of the late chieftain of that name. 
Matiamvo is the hereditary title, muata meaning lord or 
chief. The late Matiamvo seems, from the report of thetto 
men, to have become insane, for he is said to have soma* 
times indulged tho whim of running a muck in tho town 
and beheading whomsoever he met, until ho had (^uite a 
heap of human heads. Matiamvo explained tbis c<^nduct 
by saying that his people were too many, and ho ^^ anted 
to dinunish thorn, llo bad absolute power of life and death. 



190 MATlAMVO'S CONDUCT. 

On inquiring Vvhcther human sacrifices were still made, as 
in the time of Percira, at Cazembe's, we were informed 
that these had never been so common as was represented 
to Pereira, hut that it occasionally happened, when certain 
charms were needed by the chief, that a man was slaugh* 
tered for the sake of some part of his body. He added 
that he hoped the present chief would not act like hi« 
(mad) predecessor, but kill only those who were guilty of 
witchcraft or theft. These men were very much astonished 
at the liberty enjoyed by the Makololo ; and, when they 
found that all my people had cattle, we were told that 
Matiamvo alone had a herd. One very intelligent man 
among them asked, ^' If he should make a canoe, and take 
it down the river to the Makololo, would he get a cow for 
it ?" This question, which my men answered in the affirma- 
tive, was important, as showing the knowledge of water- 
communication from the country of Matiamvo to the 
Makololo ; and the river runs through a fertile country 
abounding in large timber. If the tribes have intercourse 
with eaph other, it exerts a good influence on their chiefs 
to hear what other tribes think of their deeds. The Ma- 
kololo have such a bad name, on account of their perpetual 
forays, that they have not been known in Londa except as 
ruthless destroj'ers. The people in Matiamvo's country 
submit to much wrong from their chiefs, and no voice can 
be raised against cruelty, because they are afraid to flee 
elsewhere. 

AYe left Quendendc's village in company with Quendendo 
himself, and the principal man of the ambassadors of Ma- 
tiamvo^ a^d, after two or three miles' march to the N.AY., 
came to the ford of tlie Lotembwa, which flows southward. 
A canoe was waiting to ferry us over, but it was very 
tedious work; for, though the river itself was only eighty 
yards wide, the whole valley was flooded, and wo were 
obliged to paddle more than half a mile to get free of the 
water. A fire was lit to warm old Quendende and enable 
him to dry his tobacco-leaves. The leaves are taker from 



SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOMS. 19] 

the plant and spread close to the fire until they are quite 
dry and crisp ; they are then put into a snuff-box, which, 
with a little pestle, serves the purpose of a mill to grind 
them into powder: it is then used as snuff. As we sat by 
the fire, the ambassadors communicated their thoughts 
freely respecting the customs of their race. When a chief 
dies, a number of servants are slaughtered with him to 
form his company in the other world. The Barotse followed 
the same custom ; and this and other usages show them to 
be genuine negroes, though neither they nor the Balonda 
resemble closely the typical form of that people. Quen- 
dende said if he were present on these occasions he would 
hide his people so that they might not be slaughtered. 
As we go north, the people become more bloodily super- 
stitious. 

Wc wore assured that if the late Matiamvo took a fancy 
to any thing, — such, for instance, as my watch-chain, which 
was of silver w^ire, and was a great curiosity, as they had 
never seen metal plaited before, — he w^ould order a whole 
village to be brought up to buy it from a stranger.^ When 
a slave-trader visited him, ho took possession of all hie 
goods; then, after ten days or a fortnight, he would send 
out a party of men to pounce upon some considerable 
village, and, having killed the head-men, would pay for all 
the goods by selling the inhabitants. This has frequently 
been the case, and nearly all the visitants he ever had were 
men of color. On asking if Matiamvo did not know he 
was a man, and would be judged, in company with those 
he destroyed, by a Lord who is no respecter of persons, 
the ambassador replied, " Wc do not go up to God, as yon 
do: we are pul into the ground." I could not ascertain 
tliat even those who have such a distinct perception of the 
continued existence of departed spirits had any notion of 
heaven : they appear to imagine the souls to be always 
near the place of sepulture. 

After crossing the river Lotembwa, we travelled about 
eight miles, and came to Katema's straggling town, (lat 



192 PRESENTATION TO KATEMA. 

11^ 35' 49" S., long. 22° 27' E.) It is more a collection of 
villages than a town. We were led out about half a 
mile from the houses, that we might make for ourselvefi 
the best lodging we could of the trees and grass, whih^ 
Intemese was taken to Katema to undergo the usual pro 
cess of pumping as to our past conduct and professions 
Katema soon afterward sent a handsome present of food. 

Next morning we had a formal presentation, and found 
Katema seated on a sort of throne, with about three hun- 
dred men on the ground around, and thirty women, who 
were said to be his wives, close behind him. The maiti 
body of the people were seated in a semicircle, at a dis 
tance of fifty yards. Each party had its own head-man 
stationed at a little distance in front, and, when beckoned 
by the chief, came near him as councillors. Intemese gave 
our history, and Katema placed sixteen large baskets of 
meal before us, half a dozen fowls, and a dozen eggs, and 
expressed regret that we had slept hungry: he did not like 
any stranger to suifer want in his town; and added, "Go 
home and cook and eat, and you will then be in a fit stat^ 
to speak to me at an audience I will give you to-morrow." 
Ho v.'as busily engaged in hearing the statements of a large 
body of fine young men who had fled from Kangenkc, 
chief of Lobale, on account of his selling their relatives to 
the native Portuguese who frequent his country. Katema 
is a tall man, about forty years of age, and his head was 
ornamented with a helmet of beads and feathers. He had 
on a snuif-brown coat, with a broad band of tinsel down 
the arms, and carried in his hand a large tail made of the 
3audal extremities of a number of gnus. This has charmg 
attached to it, and ho continued waving it in front of him- 
§elf all the time we were there. He seemed in good spirits, 
laughing heartily several times. This is a good sign, for a 
man who shakes his sides with mirth is seldom difficult to 
deal with. When we rose to take leave, all ro»e with us, 
as at Shinto's. 

Returning next morning, Katema addressed me thus:— 



INTERVIEW WITH KATEMA. 1^^ 

* I am the great Moene (lord) Katema, the fellow of Ma- 
tiamvo. There is no one in the country equal to Matiamvo 
and me I have always lived here, and my forefathers too. 
There is the house in which my father lived. You found 
no human skulls near the place where you are encamped 
I never killed any of the traders : they all come to me. I 
am the great Moene Katema, of whom you have heard." 
lie looked as if he had fallen asleep tipsy and dreamed 
of his greatness. On explaining my objects to him, ho 
promptly pointed out three men who would be our guides, 
and explained that the northwest path was the most 
direct, and that by which all traders came, but that the 
water at present standing on the plains would reach up to 
the loins : he would therefore send us by a more northerly 
route, which no trader had yet traversed. This was more 
suited to our wishes, for we never found a path safe that 
had been trodden by slave-traders. 

"We presented a few articles which pleased him highly, — 
a small shawl, a razor, three bunches of beads, some but- 
tons, and a powder-horn. Apologizing for the insignifi- 
cance of the gift, I wished to know what I could bring 
him from Loanda, saying, not a large thing, but something 
small. He laughed heartily at the limitation, and replied, 
^' Every thing of the white people would be acceptable, and 
he would receive anything thankfully; but the coat he 
then had on was old, and he would like another." I intro- 
duced the subject of the Bible; but one of the old coun- 
cillors broke in, told all he had picked up from the Mam- 
bari, and glided off into several other subjects. It is a 
miseiy to speak through an interpreter, as I was now 
forced to do. With a body of men like mine, composed aa 
they wore of six different tribes, and all speaking the lan- 
guage of the Bechuanas, there was no difficulty in commu 
eating on common subjects with any tribe we came to ; but 
doling out a story in which they felt no interest, and 
which I understood only sufficiently well to perceive that 

a mere abridgment was given, was uncommonly slow 
N 17 



194 CATTLE — A FEAST. 

work. Neither could Katema^s attention be arrested, 
except by compliments, of which they have always plenty 
to bestow as well as receive. We were strangers, and 
knew that, as Makololo, we had not the best of characters j 
yet his treatment of us was wonderfully good and liberal. 

I complimented him on the possession of cattle, and 
pleased him by telling him how he might milk the cows. 
He has a herd of about thirty, really splendid animals, all 
reared from two which he brought from the Balobale when 
he was young. They are generally of a white color, and 
are quite wild, running off with graceful ease like a herd 
of elands on the approach of a stranger. They excited the 
unbounded admiration of the Makololo, and clearly proved 
that the country was well adapted for them. When Katema 
wishes to slaughter one, he is obliged to shoot it as if it 
were a buffalo. Matiamvo is said to possess a herd of cattle 
in a similar state. I never could feel certain as to the 
reason why they do not all possess cattle in a country on- 
tam'ng such splendid pa&turago. 

As Katema did not offer an ox, as would have been done 
by a Makololo or Caffre chief, we slaughtered one of our 
own, and all of us were delighted to get a meal of meat, 
after subsisting so long on the light porridge and green 
maize of Londa. On occasions of slaughtering an animal, 
some piecoo of it are in the fire before the skin is all 
removed from the body. A frying-pan full of these pieces 
having been got quickly ready, my men crowded about 
their father, and I handed some all round. It was a 
Btran;-;c sight to the Balonda, who were looking on wonder- 
ing. I offered portions to them too, but these were declined, 
though they are excessively fond of a little animal food to 
eat with their vegetable diet. They would not eat with us, 
but they would take the meat and cook it in their own 
way, and then use it. I thought at one time that they had 
imported something from the Mohammedans, and the more 
espeoially as an exclamatica of surprise, "Allah!" sounds 
like the niah of the Arabs ; but we found, a little fartbei 



i 



NEW ATTACK OF FEVER. 197 

C/n, anotlicr form of salutation, of Christian (?) origin, '• Avo- 
ri3," (Ave Alarie.) The salutations probably travel farther 
than the faith. My people, when sacisficd with a meal lika 
that which they enjoy so often at home, amused themselvei 
by an uproarious dance. Katema sent to ask what I Lad 
giren them to produce so much excitement. Intemcserei liod 
it was their custom, and they meant no harm. Tlio com 
panion of the ox we slaughtered refused food for two days^ 
and went lowing about for him continually. He seemed 
inconsolable for his loss, and tried again ' and again to 
escape back to the Makololo country. My men remarked, 
* He thinks, They will kill me as well as my friend." Katema 
thought it the result of art, and had fears of my skill in 
medicine, and, of course, witchcraft. He refused to wee the 
magic lantern. 

On Sunday, the 19th, both I and several of oui party 
were seized with fever, and I could do nothing but toss 
about in my little tent, with the thermometer about 90°, — 
though this was the beginning of winter, and my men 
made as much shade as possible by planting branches of 
trees all round and over it. We have, for the first time in 
my experience in Africa, had a cold wind from the north. 
All the winds from that quarter are hot, and those from 
the south are cold; but they seldom blow from eithei 
direction . 

20th. — We were glad to get away, though not on account 
c f any scarcity of food ; for my men, by giving small 
l>ioeents of meat as an earnest of their sincerity, formed 
muny friendships with the people of Katema. \7e went 
aVout four or five miles in a N.N.W. direction, then two in 
n ^esterl}^ one, and came round the small end of Lake 
Pilolo. It seemed, as far as we could at this time discern, 
K> be like a river a quarter of a mile wide. 

Immediately beyond Dilolo there is a large flat alK)u 
twent}'' miles in breadth. Here Shakatwala insisted on our 
remain mg to get supplies of food from Katema's subject? 
before entering the uninhabited watery plains. 



198 SAGACITY OF ANTS. 

Heavy rains prevented us from crossing the plain in front 
(N.N.W.) in one day, and the constant wading among the 
grass hurt the feet of the men. There is a footpath all the 
way across, but, as this is worn down beneath the level of 
the resii of the plain, it is necessarily the deepest porticn, 
and the men, avoiding it, make a new walk by its side. A 
path, however narrow, is a great convenience, as any one 
who has travelled on foot in Africa will admit. The virtual 
want of it here caused us to make slow and painful progi-ess. 

Ants surely 'ai*e wiser than some men, for they learn by 
experience. They have established themselves even ob 
these plains, where water stands so long annually as tc 
allow the lotus, and other aqueous plants, to come to m^itu- 
rity. "When all the ant-horizon is submerged a foot d^jep 
they manage to exist by ascending to little houses built of 
black tenacious loam on stalks of grass and placed highei 
than the line of inundation. This must have been the re- 
sult of experience; for, if they had waited tili the water 
actually invaded their terrestrial habitations, they would not' 
have been able to procure materials for their at^rial quarters 
unless they dived down to the bottom for every mouthful 
of clay. Some of these upper chambers are about the siz« 
of a bean, and others as large as a man's thumb. They 
must have built in anticipation; and, if so, let us humbly 
hope that the sufferers by the late inundations in France 
may be possessed of as much common sense as the little 
black ants of the Dilolo plains. 



I 



D£EP VALLEY. 199 



CHAPTER XYIII. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE ADVANCES TO THE NORTHWEST— VISITS 
KATENDE AND lONGA PANZA. 

2Uh of February. — On reaching unflooded lands boyond 
tbc pliiin, we found the villages there acknowledged the 
authority of the chief named Katende, and we discovered, 
also, to our surprise, that the almost level plain we had 
passed forms the watershed between the southern and 
northern rivers, for we had now entered a district in 
which the rivers flowed in a northerly direction into the 
Kasai or Loke, near to which we now were, while the 
rivers we had hitherto crossed were all running southward. 
Having met with kind treatment and aid at the first vil- 
lage, Katema's guides returned, and we were led to the 
JS.N.W. by the inhabitants, and descended into the very 
first really-deep valley we had seen since leaving Kolo- 
bong. A stream ran along the bottom of a slope of three 
or four hundred yards from the plains above. 

We crossed this by a rustic bridge at present submerged 
thigh deep by the rains. The trees growing along the 
stream of this lovely valley were thickly planted and very 
high. Many had sixty or eighty feet of clean straight 
trunk, and beautiful flowers adorned the ground beneath 
them. Ascending the opposite side, we came, in two 
hours' time, to another valley, equally beautiful, and with 
1 stream also in its centre. 

Eeaching the village of Kabinje, in the evening he sent 
as a present of tobacco, Mutokuane or " bang,'' (^Cannabis 
mtiva,) and maize, by the man who went forward to an- 
nounce our arrival, and a message expressing satisfaction 
at the prospect of having trade with the coast. The 
westing we were making brought us among people 
who are frequently visited by the Mambari as slave-dealer*. 



200 DEMAND FOR GUNPOWDER AND CALICO. 

This trade causes bloodshed; for when a poor family is 
selected as the victims it is necessary to get rid of the 
older members of it, because they are supposed to be aUe 
to give annoyance to the chief afterward by means of 
enchantments. The belief in the power of charms for 
good or evil produces not only honesty, but a great amount 
of gentle dealing. The powerful are often restrained in 
their despotism from a fear that the weak and helpless 
may injure them by their medical knowledge. 

When we wished to move on, Kabinje refused a guide to 
the next village, because he was at war with it ; but, after 
much persuasion, he consented, provided that the guide 
should be allowed to return as soon as he came in sight 
of the enemy's village. This we felt to be a misfortune, 
as the people all suspect a man who comes telling liis own 
tale; but, there being no help for it, wo went on, and found 
the head-man of a village on the rivulet Kalomba, called 
Kangenke, a very different man from what his enemy 
represented. We found, too, that the idea of buying and 
selling took the place of giving for .friendship. As I had 
nothing with which to purchase food except a parcel of 
boads, which were preserved for worse times, I began to fear 
that we should soon be compelled to suffer more from 
hunger than we had done. The people demanded gun- 
powder for every thing. If we had possessed any quan- 
tity of that article, we should have got on well, for here 
it is of great value. On our return, near this spot we 
found a good-sized fowl was sold for a single charge of 
gunpowder. Next to that, English calico was in great 
demand, and so were beads; but money was of no value 
whatever. Gold is quite unknown; it is thought to bo 
brass : trade is carried on by barter alone. The pec pie 
know nothing of money. A purse-proud person would 
hero feel the ground move from beneath his feet. Occasion- 
Blly a large piece of copper, in the shape of a St. Andrew's 
cross, is offered for sale. 

February 37. — Kangenko promptly furnished guides 




e 

a 



S 



o 



^ 



^ 



VEXATIOUS tri:k. 203 

this noraing, so we went briskly on a short distance, and 
came to a part of the Kasye, Kasai, or Loke, where he 
had appointed two canoes to convey us across. This is a 
most beautiful river, and very much like the Clyde in Scot- 
Ian 3, The slope of the valley down to the stream is about 
five hundred yards, and finely wo-^ded. It is perhapa 
one hundred yards broad, and was winding slowly frora 
side to side in the beautiful green glen, in a course to the 
north and northeast. In both the directions from which 
it came and to which it went it seemed to be alternately 
embowered in sylvan vegetation or rich meadows covered 
with tall grass. The men pointed out its course, and said 
" Though "you sail along it for months, you will turn with 
out seeing the end of it.'' 

While at the ford of the Kasai we were subjected to a 
trick, of which we had been forewarned by the people 'd 
Shinte. A knife had been dropped by one of Kangenk^'a 
people, in order to entrap my men ; it was put down neur 
our encampment, as if lost, the owner in the mean time 
watching till one of my men picked it up. Nothing was 
said until our party was divided, one half on this and the 
other on that bank of the river. Then the charge was 
made to me that one of my men had stolen a knife. 
Certain of my people's honesty, I desired the man, who 
was making a great noise, to search the luggage for it; 
the unlucky lad who had taken the bait then came forward 
and confessed that he had the knife in a basket which was 
already taken over the river. When it was returned, the 
cwner would not receive it back unless accompanied with 
a fine. The lad offered beads, but these were refused with 
scorn. A shell hanging round his neck, similar to that 
which Shinte had given me, was the object demanded, and 
the victim of the trick, as we all knew it to be, was obliged 
tc part with his costly ornament. I could not save him 
from the loss, as all had been forewarned; and it is ^he 
universal custom among the Makololo and many other 
tribes tc show whatever they may find to the chief person 



204 WANT OP FOOD. 

of their company, and make a sort i>f offer of it to him 
This lad ought to have done so to me : the rest of the 
party always observed this custom. I felt annoyc d at the 
imposition, but the order we invariably followed in cross 
ing a river forced me to submit The head of the paity 
remained to be ferried over last ; so, if I had not come to 
terms, I would have been, as I always was in crossing 
rivers which we could not swim, completely in the power 
of the enemy. It was but rarely we could get a head-man 
80 witless as to cross a river with us and remain on the 
opposite bank in a convenient position to be seized as a 
hostage in case of my being caught. 

This trick is but one of a number equally dishonorable 
which are practised by tribes that lie adjacent to the more 
civilized settlements. The Balonda farther east told us, 
by way of warning, that many parties of the more central 
tribes had at various periods set out, in order to trade .with 
the white men themselves, instead of through the Mambari, 
but had always been obliged to return without reaching 
their destination, in consequence of so many pretexts being 
invented by the tribes encountered in the way for fining 
them of their ivory. 

This ford v/as in 11° 15' 47" S. latitude, but the weather was 
so excessively cloudy we got no observation for longitude. 

We were now in want of food; for, to the great surprise 
of my companions, the people of Kangenke gave nothing 
except by way of sale, and charged the most exorbitant 
prices for the little meal and manioc they brought. The 
^nly article of barter my men had was a little fat saved 
from the ox we slaughtered at Katema's; so I was obliged 
to give them a portion of the stock of beads. One day 
129th) of westing brought us from the Kasai to near the 
village of Katende, and we saw that we were in a land 
where no hope could be entertained of getting supplies of 
animal food, for one of our guides caught a light- blue* 
colored mole and two mice for his euvper. The care with 
wi i(h he wrapped them up in a leaf and slung thorn on 



A GRAVE OFFENCE. 205 

hid spear told that wo could not hope to enjoy any larger 
game. We saw no evidence of any animals besides; and, 
on coming to the villages beyond this, we often saw boys 
and girls engaged in digging ap these tiny quadrupeds. 

Katende sent for me on the day following our arrival^ 
and, being quite willing to visit him, I walked, for this 
purpose, about three miles from our encampment. When we 
a]"proached the village we were desired to enter a hut, and, as 
it was raining at the time, we did so. After a long time spent 
in giving and receiving messages from the great man, we were 
told that he wanted either a man, a tusk, beads, copper rings, 
or a shell, as payment for leave to pass through his country. 
No one, we were assured, was allowed that liberty, or even 
to behold bim, without something of the sort being pre- 
sented. Having humbly explained our circumstances, and 
that he could not expect to "catch an humble cow by the 
horns,'' — a proverb similar to ours that "you can't draw 
milk out of a stone," — we were told to go home, and he 
would speak again to us next day. 1 could not avoid a 
hearty laugh at the cool impudence of the savage, and 
made the best of my way home in the still pouring rain. 
My men were rather nettled at this want of hospitality; 
but, after talking over the matter with one of Katende'a 
servants, he proposed that some small article should bo 
given, and an attempt made to please Katende. I turned 
out my shirts, and selected the worst one as a sop for him, 
and in\ited Katende to come and choose any thing else I 
had, but added that, when I should reach my own chief 
naked, and was asked what I had done with my clothes, 1 
fhould be obliged to confess that I had left them with 
Katciide. The shirt was despatched to him, and some of 
my \ cople went along with the servant • they soon returned, 
•saying that the shirt had been accepted, and guides and 
food loo would be sent to us next day. The chief had, 
moreover, expressed a hope to see me on my return. ITe 
is reported to be very corpulent. The traders who have 
come here seem to have oeer ^ery timid, yielding to every 

18 



206 A NATIVE TOLL-KEEPER. 

demand made on the most frivolous pretences. One of mj 
men, seeing another much like an acquaintance at home, 
addressed him by the name of the latter in sport, telling 
hlm^ at the same time, why he did so ; this was pronounced 
ic be a grave offence, and a large fine demanded : when tho 
case came before me I could see no harm in what had been 
done, and told my people not to answer the young fellow. 
The latter felt himself disarmed, for it is chiefly in a brawl 
they have power; then words are spoken in anger which 
rouse the passions of the complainant's friends. In this 
case, after vociferating some time, the would-be offended 
party came and said to nr.y man that, if they exchanged 
some small gift, all would be right, but, my man taking nc 
notice of him, he went off rather crest-fallen. 

My men were as much astonished as myself at the de- 
mand for payment for leave to pass, and the almost entire 
n^jglect of the rules of hospitality. Katende gave us only 
a little meal and manioc, and a fowl. Being detained two 
d«ys by heavy rains, we felt that a good stock of patience 
was necessary in travelling through this country in the 
'•ainy season. 

Passing onward without seeing Katende, we crossed a 
small rivulet, the Sengko, by which we had encamped, and 
after two hours came to another, the Totelo, which was 
somewhat larger and had a bridge over it. At the farther 
end of this structure stood a negro, who demanded fees. 
He said the bridge was his, the path his; the guides were 
his children ; and if we did not pay him he would prevent 
farther progress. This piece of civilization I was not pre- 
pared to meet, and stood a few seconds looking at our bold 
toll-keeper, when one of my men took off three copper 
bracelets, which paid for the whole party. The negro wa« 
h better man than he at first seemed, for he immediately 
went to his garden and brought us some leaves of tobacco 
as a present. 

"WTien we got fairly away from the tillages, the guides 
from Kangenke sat down and told us that there were three 



FLOODED VALLEYS. 207 

paths in front, ai^d if we did not at once present them 
with a cloth they would leave us to take whichever we 
might like hest. As I had pointed out the direction in 
which Loanda lay, and had only employed them for the 
sake of knowing the paths between villages which lay 
along our route, and always objected when they led us in 
any other than the Loanda direction, I wished my men 
now to go on without the guides, trusting to ourselves to 
choose the path which would seem to lead us in the direction 
we had always followed. But Mashauana, fearing lest wo 
might wander, asked leave to give his own cloth, and when 
the guides saw that they came forward, shouting, "Averie! 
Averie I" 

In the afternoon of thits day we came to a valley about 
a mile wide, filled with clear, fast-flowing water. The men 
on foot were chin deep in crossing, and we three on ox-back 
got wet to the middle, the weight of the animals preventing 
them from swimming. A thuDder-shower descending com. 
plcted the partial dienching of the plain, and gave a cold, 
uncomfortable " packing in a wet blanket" that night. 
Next day we found another flooded valley about half a 
mile wide, with a small and now deep rivulet in its middle, 
flowing rapidly to the S.S.E., or toward the Kasai. The 
middle part of this flood, being the bed of what at other 
times is the rivulet, was so rapid that we crossed by holding 
on to the oxen, and the current soon dashed them to the 
opposite bank : we then jumped off, and, the oxen being re- 
lieved of their burdens, we could pull them on to the shal- 
lower part. The rest of the valley was thigh Jeep and 
boggy, but, holding on by the belt which fastened the blanket 
to the ox, we each floundered through the nasty slough a8 
well as we could. 

In the afternoon we came to another stream, fiuana Loko, 
(or child of Loke,) with a bridge over it. The men had to 
■wim off to each end of the bridge, and when on it were 
breast deep : some preferred holding on by the tails of the 
oxen the whole way across. I intended to do this too ; 



208 UNCULTIVATED VALLEYS. 

but; riding to tLc deep part, before I lould dismcant and 
seize the helm the ox dashed off with his companions, and 
his body sank so deep that I failed in my attempt even to 
catch the blanket-belt, and if I pulled the bridle the ox 
Bccmcd as if he would come backward upon me; so I struck 
cut for the opposite bank alone. My poor fellows were 
dreadfully alarmed when they saw me parted from the 
cattle, and about twenty of them made a simultaneous rush 
into the water for my rescue, and just as I reached the 
opposite bank one seized my arm, and another threw his 
around my body. "When I stood up it was most gratifying 
to see them all struggling toward me. Some had leaped 
off the bridge and allowed their cloaks to float down the 
stream. Part of my goods, abandoned in the hurry, were 
brought up from the bottom after I was safe. Great was 
the pleasure expressed when they found that I could swim 
like themselves, without the aid of a tail, and I did and do 
feel grateful to those poor heathens for the promptitude 
with which they dashed in to save, as they thought, my 
life. I found ray clothes cumbersome in the water : they 
could SAvim quicker from being naked. They swim like 
dogs, not frog-fashion as we do. 

In the evening we crossed the small rivulet Lozeze, and 
came to some villages of the Kasabi, from whom we got 
some manioc in exchange for beads. They tried to frighten 
U5 by telling of the deep rivers we should have to cross in 
our vay. I was drying my clothes by turning myself r( und 
and round before the fire. My men laughed at the idea of 
being frightened by rivers. "We can all swim : who car- 
ried the white man across the river but himself?" I felt 
proud of their praise. 

Saturday, Ath March. — Came to the outskirts of the ter- 
ritory of the Chiboque. We crossed the Konde and Ka- 
Irize rivulets. The former is a deep, small stream with a 
bridge, the latter insignificant; the valleys in which these 
nvulets run are beautifully fertile. My companions ar© 
:'Ontinually lamenting over the uncultivated vales in snob 



DIFFERENCE IN COLOR OF AFRICANS. 209 

words as these: — ^^What a fine country for cattle! My 
heart is sore to see such fruitful valleys for corn lying 
waste." 

WlTile at the villages of the Kasabi we saw no evidences 
of want of food among the people. Our beads were very 
valuable, bat cotton cloth would have been still more so; aa 
wo travelled along, men, women, and children came running 
after us, with meal and fowls for sale, which we would 
gladly have purchased had we possessed any English manu- 
factures. "When they heard that we had no cloth, they 
turned back much disappointed. 

The amount of population in the central parts of the 
country may be called large only as compared with the 
Cape Colony or the Bechuana country. The cultivated 
land is as nothing compared with what might be brought 
under the plough. There are flowing streams in abundance, 
which, were it necessary, could be turned to the purpose 
of irrigation with but little labor. Miles of fruitful country 
are now lying absolutely waste, for there is not even game 
to eat off the fine pasturage, and to recline under the ever- 
green, shady groves which we are ever passing in our pro- 
gress. The people who inhabit the central region are not 
all quite black in color. Many incline to that of bronze, 
and others are as light in hue as the Bushmen, who, it may 
be remembered, afford a proof that heat alone does not 
cause blackness, but that heat and moisture combined do 
very materially deepen the color. 

Having, on the aforementioned date, reached the village 
of Njambi, one of the chiefs of the Chiboque, we intended 
to pass a quiet Sunday; and, our provisions being quite 
epent, I ordered a tired riding-ox to be slaughtered. Aa 
wo wished to be on good terms with all, we sent the hump 
eind ribs to Njambi, with the explanation that this was the 
customary tribute to chiefs in the part from which we had 
come, and that we always honored men in his position. lie 
returned 1 hanks, and promised to send food. Next morn 
iag he sent an impudent message, with a very small present 

IS* 



210 OUR ENCAMPMENT SURROUNDED. 

of meal; scorning the meat he had accepted, he deraanaed 
either a man, an ox, a gun, powder, cloth, or a shell; and, 
in the event of refusal to comply with his demand, he inti- 
mated his intention to prevent our farther progress. Wo 
replied, we should have thought ourselves fools if we had 
Bcorned his small present and demanded other food instead; 
and, even supposing we had possessed the articles named, 
no black man ought to impose a tribute on a party that did 
not trade in slaves. The servants who brought the mes- 
sage said that, when sent to the Mambari, they had always 
got a quantity of cloth from them for their master, and now 
expected the same, or something else as an equivalent, 
from me. 

A7e heard some of the Chiboque remark, '^They have 
only five guns;" and about mid-day Nj a mbi collected all his 
people and surrounded our encampment. Their object was 
evidently to plunder us of every thing. My men seized 
their javelins, and stood on the defensive, while the young 
Chiboque had drawn their swords and brandished them 
with great fury. Some evenj)ointed their guns at me, and 
nodded to each other, as much as to say, '' This is the way 
we shall do with him." I sat on my camp-stool, with my 
double-barrelled gun across my knees, and invited the chief 
to be seated also. When he and his counsellors had sat 
down on the ground in front of me, I asked what crime 
we had committed that ho had come armed in that way. 
He replied that one of my men, Pitsane, while sitting at 
the fire that morning, had, in spitting, allowed a smaU 
quantity of the saliva to fall on the leg of one of his men, 
and this ''guilt" he Avantcd to be settled by the fine of a 
man, ox, or gun. Pitsane admitted the fact of a little 
saliva having fallen on the Chiboque, and, in proof of its 
being a pure accident, mentioned that he had given the 
man a piece of meat, by way of making friends, just before 
it happened, and wiped it ofi'with his hand as soon as it 
fell. In reference to a man being given, I declared that we 
were all ready to die rather than give up one of our num 



PROSPECTS OF A FIGHT. 211 

ber io be a slave ; that my men might as well give me as 1 
giv« one of them, for we were all free men. " Then you 
can give the gun with which the ox was shot." As we 
heard some of his people remarking even now that we had 
only "five guns," we declined, on the ground that, as they 
were intent on plundering us, giving a gun would be help- 
ing them to do so. 

This they denied, saying they wanted the customary 
tribute only. I asked what right they had to demand pay- 
ment for leave to tread on the ground of God, our common 
Father. If we trod on their gardens, we would pay, but 
not for marching on land which was still God's, and not 
theirs. They did not attempt to controvert this, becauso 
it is in accordance with their own ideas, but reverted again 
to the pretended crime of the saliva. 

My men now entreated me to give something; and, after 
asking the chief if he really thought the affair of the 
spitting a matter of guilt, and receiving an answer in the 
affirmative, I gave him one of my shirts. The young 
Chiboque were dissatisfied, and began shouting and bran- 
dishing their swords for a greater fine. 

As Pitsane felt that he had been the cause of this dis- 
agreeable affair, he asked me to add something else. I 
gave a bunch of beads, but the counsellors objected this 
time ; so I added a large handkerchief. The more I yielded, 
the more unreasonable their demands became, and at 
every fresh demand a shout was raised by the armed party, 
and a rush made around us with brandishing of arms. One 
young man made a charge at my head from behind; but I 
quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to his mouth, 
and he retreated. I pointed him out to the chief, and ho 
ordered him to retire a little. I felt anxious to avoid the 
effusion of blood; and though sure of being able, with my 
Makololo, who had been drilled by Sebituane, to drive off 
twice the number of our assailants, though now a Iarg« 
body and well armed with spears, swords, arrows, and 
gunS; I strove to avoid actual collision. My men were 



212 THE fIGHT ATERTEB. 

quite unprepared for this exhibit'on, but behaved w.tii 
admirable coolness. The chief and counsellors, bj acfe^)^- 
ing my invitation to be seated, had placed themselves in 9 
trap, for my men very quietly surrounded them, and made 
them feel that there was no chance of escaping their spears. 
I then said that, as one thing after another had failed to 
satisfy them, it was evident that ihey wanted to tight, whilo 
we only wanted to pass peaceably through the country; 
that they must begin first, and bear the guilt before (lod : 
we would not fight till they had struck the first blow. I 
then sat silent for some time. It was rather trying for 
me, because I knew that the Chiboque would aim at tiio 
white man first y but I was careful not to appear flurried, 
and, having four barrels reaay for instant action, looked 
quietly at the savage scene around. The Chiboque coan- 
tenance, by no means handsome, is not improved by the 
practice which they have adopted of filing the teeth to a 
point. The chief and counsellors, seeing that they were 
in more danger than I, did not choose to follow our decision 
that they should begin by striking the first blow and then 
see what we could do, and were perhaps influenced by 
eeeing the air of cool preparation which some of my men 
displayed at the prospect of a work of blood. 

The Chiboque at last put the matter before us in this 
way : — '^ You come among us in a new way, and say you 
are quite friendly : how can we know it unless you give lis 
some of your food, and you take some of ours ? If you 
give us an ox, we will give you whatever you may wish, 
and then we shall be friends." In accordance with the 
entreaties of my men, I gave an ox, and, when asked what 
I should like in return, mentioned food as the thing which 
we most needed. In the evening, Njambi sent us a very 
small basket of meal, and two or three pounds of the fie«h 
of our own ox! with the apology that he had no fowls, 
and very little of any other food. It was impossible to 
avoid a laugh at the coolness of the generous creatures. I 
was truly thankful, neverthelesfl, that, though resolved to 



CHANaE OP PATH. 213 

die ratiier tlian deliver up one of our number to be a 
slave, we had so far gained our point as to be allowed to 
pass on without having shed human blood. 

In the midst of the commotion, several Chiboque stole 
pieces of meat out of the sheds of my people, and Moho- 
risi, one of the Makololo, went boldly into the crowd and 
took back a marrow-bone from one of them. A few of my 
Batoka seemed afraid, and would perhaps have fled had 
the affray actually begun, but, upon the whole, I thought 
my men behaved admirably. They lamented having left 
their shields at home by command of Sekeletu, who feared 
that, if they carried these, they might be more disposed to 
be overbearing in their demeanor to the tribes we should 
meet. AYc had proceeded ou the principles of peace and 
conciliation, and the foregoing treatment shows in what 
light our conduct was viewed : in fact, we were taken for 
interlopers trying to cheat the revenue of the tribe. They 
had been accustomed to get a slave or two from every 
slave-trader who passed them, and, now that we disputed 
the right, thcj^ viewed the infringement on what they con- 
sidered lawfully due with most virtuous indignation. 

March 6. — We were informed that the people on the 
west of the Chiboque of Njambi wei*e familiar with the 
visits of slave-traders ; and it was the opinion of our guides 
from Kangenke that so many of my companions would be 
demanded from me, in the same manner as the people 
of Njambi had done, that I should reach the coast without 
a single attendant. I therefore resolved to alter our course 
and strike away "to the N.oS'.E., in the hope that at some 
point farther north I might find an exit to the Portuguese 
settlement of Cassange. We proceeded at first due north, 
with the Kasabi villages on our right and the Kasau on 
our left. During the first twenty miles we crossed many 
small, but now swollen, streams, having the usual boggy 
banks; and wherever the water had stood for any length 
of time it was discolored with rust of iron. 

Oq the 8th, one of the men had left an ounce or two of 



214 THE OX '•'• SINLAD." 

|>owder at our sleeping-place, and went back several mile? 
for it. My clothing being wet from crossing a stream, 1 
waa compelled to wait for him : had I been moving in the 
Bun I should have felt no harm ; but the inaction led to a 
violent fit of fever. The continuance of this attack was a 
Bonrco of much regret ; for we went on next day to a small 
ri\ulet called Chihune, in a lovely valley, and had, for a 
wonder, a clear sky and a clear moon ; but such was the 
confusion produced in my mind by the state of my body, 
that I could scarcely manage, after some hours' trial, to 
get a lunar observation in which I could repose confidenco. 
The Chihune flows into the Longe/ and that into the Chi- 
hdmbo, a feeder of the Kasai. Those who know the diffi- 
culties of taking altitudes, times, and distances, and com- 
mitting all of them to paper, will sympathize with me Id 
this and many similar instances. While at Chihune, the 
men of a village brought wax for sale, and, on finding that 
we wished honey, went off and soon brought a hive. AH 
the bees in the country are in possession of the natives; 
for they place hives sufficient for them all. After having 
ascertained this, we never attended the call of the honey- 
guide, for we wei*e sure it would only lead us to a hive 
which we had no right to touch. The bird continues its 
habit of inviting attention to the honey, though its ser- 
vices in this district are never actually needed. My 
Makololo lamented that they never knew before that wax 
could be sold for any thing of value. 

In passing through these narix>w paths I had an oppor- 
tunity of obseiving the peculiaiHties of my ox "Sinbad.** 
Ho had a softer back than the others, but a much more 
intractable temper. His horns were bent downward and 
hung loosely, so he could do no harm with them ; but, as 
we wended our way slowly along the narrow path, hd 
would suddenly dart aside. A string tied to a stick put 
through the cartilage of the nose serves instead of a bridle: 
if you jei-k this back, it makes him run faster on ; if you 
pull it to one side, he allows the nose and head to go, but 



INCIPIENT MUTINY. 215 

keeps the opposite eye directed to the forbidden spot and 
goes in spite of you. The only way he can be brought to 
a stand is by a stroke with a wand across the nose. When 
Sinbad ran in below a climber stretched over the path »o 
low that I could not stoop under it, I was dragged off and 
came down on the crown of my head; and ho never 
allowed an opportunity of the kind to pass without trying 
to inflict a kick, as if I neither had nor deserved his love. 

On leaving the Chihune, we crossed the Longe, and, as 
the day was cloudy, our guides wandered in a forest away 
to the west till we came to the river Chihombo, flowing to 
the E.N.E. My men depended so much on the sun for 
guidance, that, having seen nothing of the luminary ail 
day, they thought we had wandered back to the Chiboque; 
and, as often happens when bewildef^od, they disputed as 
to the point where the sun should r ^e next morning. As 
soon as the rains would allow next iay, we went oft' to the 
N.E. It would have been better to have travelled by com- 
pass alone ; for the guides took advantage of any fears ex- 
pressed by my people, and threatened to return if j) resents 
were not made at once. But my men had never left their 
own country before except for rapine and murder. When 
they formerly came to a village, they were in the habit of 
killing numbers of the inhabitants and then taking a few 
young men to serve as guides to the next place. As thia 
was their first attempt at an opposite line of conduct, and 
as they were without their shields, they felt defenceless 
among the greedy Chiboque, and some allowance must be 
made for them on that account. 

Saturday, 11th. — Eeached ja small village on the banks 
of a narrow stream. I was too ill to go out of my little 
covering except to qucil a mutiny which began to show 
itself among some of the Batoka and Ambonda of cur 
pnrty. They grumbled, as they often do against their 
chiefb when they think them partial in their gifls, because 
they supposed that 1 had shown a preference in the distri- 
bation of the beads ; but the beads I had given to my prin- 



216 INSUBORDINATION SUPPRESSED. 

cipal meE were only sufficient to purchase a scanty me&\ 
and I had hastened on to this village in order to sla;ightej 
a tired ox and give them all a feast as vrell as a rest on 
Sunday, as preparation for the journey before us. I ex- 
plained this to them, and thought their grumbling was al- 
layed. I soon sank into a state of stupor, which the fevei 
Bometimes produced, and was oblivious to all their noise in 
slaughtering. On Sunday the mutineers were making a 
terrible din in preparing a skin they had procured. I re- 
quested them twice, by the man who attended me, to bo 
more quiet, as the noise pained me; but, as they j^aid no 
attention to this civil request, I put out my head, and, re- 
peating it myself, was answered by an impudent laugh. 
Knowing that discipline would be at an end if this mutiny 
were not quelled, aj i that our lives depended on vigor- 
ously upholding auti ority, I seized a double-barrelled 
pistol and darted forth from the domicile, looking, I sup- 
pose, so savage as to put them to a precipitate flight. As 
some remained within hearing, I told them that I must 
maintain discipline, though at the expense of some of their 
limbs; so long as we travelled together they must re- 
member that I was master, and not they. There being 
but little room to doubt my determination, they imme- 
diately became very obedient, and never afterward gave 
me any trouble or imagined that they had any right to 
my property. 

ISth. — We went forward some miles, but were brought 
to a stand by the severity of my fever on the banks of a 
branch of the Loajima, another tributary of the Kasai. I 
was in a state of partial coma until late at night, when it 
became necessary for me to go out ; and I was surprised to 
find that my men had built a litth) stockade^ and some of 
them took their si:)ears and acted as a guard. I found thai 
we were surrounded by enemies, and a party of Chiboquo 
lay near the gateway, after having preferred the demand 
of " a man, an ox, a gun, or a tusk.'' My men had prepared 
for defence in case of a night-attack, and, when the Chi- 



DEMANDS OF THE CHIBOvjUE. 217 

boque wished to be shown where I lay sick, they very 

properly refused to point me out. In the morning I went 

out to the Chiboque, and found that they answered mo 

civilly regarding my intentions in opening the country, 

teaching them, &c. &c. They admitted that their chiefs 

would be pleased with the prospect of friendship, and dod» 

only wished to exchange tokens of good-will with me, and 

offered three pigs, which they hoped I would accept. The 

poople here are in the habit of making a present and then 

demanding whatever they choose in return. "VYe had been 

forewarned of this by our guides; so I tried to decline, by 

asking if they would cat one of the pigs in company with 

us. To this proposition they said that they durst not 

accede. I then accepted the present, in hope that tho 

blame of deficient friendly feeling might not rest with me, 

and presented a razor, two bunches of beads, and twelve 

copper rings, contributed by my men from their arms. 

They went off to report to their chief; and, as I was quite 

unable to move from excessive giddiness, we continued in 

the same spot on Tuesday evening, when they returned 

with a message couched in very plain terms, that a man, 

tusk, gun, or even an ox, alone would be acceptable; that 

he had every thing else in his possession but oxen, and 

that, whatever I should please to demand from him, he 

would gladly give it. As this was all said civilly, and 

there was no help for it if we refused but bloodshed, I gave 

a tired riding-ox. My late chief mutineer, an Ambonda 

man, was now overloyal, for he armed himself and stood 

at the gateway. lie would rather die than see his fathei 

imposed on ; but I ordered Mosantu to take him out of thi 

way, which he did promptly, and allowed the Chiboque tc* 

march off well pleased with their booty. I told my men 

that I esteemed one of their lives of more value than all tho 

oxen we had, and that the only cause which could induce 

me to fight would be to save the lives and liberties of the 

majority. In ttie propriety of this they all agreed, and 

said that, if the Chiboque molested us who behaved so 

19 



218 A ROBBER-PARTY. 

peaceably, the guilt would be on their heada This is a 
favorite mode of expression throughout the whole country. 
All are anxious to give explanation of any acts they have 
performed, and conclude the narration with, "I have no 
guilt or bla*iae,'' ("molatu.") "They have the guilt." I 
never could be positive whether the idea in their minds is 
guilt in the sight of the Deity, or of mankind only. 

Next morning the robber-party came with about thirty 
yards of strong striped English calico, an axe, and two 
hoes for our acceptance, and returned the copper rings, as 
the chief was a great man and did not need the ornaments 
of my men, but we noticed that they were taken back 
again. I divided the cloth among my men, and pleased 
them a little by thus compensating for the loss of the ox. 
I advised the chief, whose name we did not learn, as he 
did not deign to appear except under the alias Matiamvo, 
to get cattle for his own use, and expressed sorrow that 1 
had none wherewith to enable him to make a commence- 
ment. Eains prevented our proceeding till Thursday 
morning, and then messengers appeared to tell us that 
their chief had learned that all the cloth sent by him had 
not been presented; that the copper rings had been secreted 
by the persons ordered to restore them to us, and that he 
had stripped the thievish emissaries of their property as a 
punishment. Our guides thought these were only spies of 
a larger party concealed in the forest through which kq 
were now about to pass. We prepared for defence by 
marching in a compact body and allowing no one tc 
straggle far behind the others. We marched through 
many miles of gloomy forest in gloomier silence, but no- 
thing disturbed us. We came to a village, and found all 
the men absent, — the guides thought, in the forest, with 
their countrymen. I was too ill to care much whetier we 
were attacked or not. Though a pouring rain came on, as 
we were all ai xious to get away out of a bad neighbor- 
hood, we proceeded. The thick atmosphere prevented my 
seeing the creeping plants in time to avoid them; so 



MORE TROUBLES. 219 

Pitsune, Mohorisi, and I, who alone were mounted, wore 
often cau^jht; and, as there is no stopping the oxen when 
they have the prospect of giving the rider a tumble, wo 
came frequently to the ground. In addition to these mis- 
haps, Sinbad went off at a plunging gallop, the bridlo 
broke, and I came down backward on the crown of my 
head. He gave me a kick on the thigh at the same time. 
I felt none the worse for this rough treatment, but would 
not recommend it to others as a palliative in cases of fever. 
This last attack of fever was so obstinate that it reduced 
me almost to a skeleton. The blanket which I used as 
a saddle on the back of the ox, being frequently wet, 
remained so beneath me even in the hot sun, and, aided by 
the heat of the ox, caused extensive abrasion of the skin, 
which was continually healing and getting sore again. To 
this inconvenience was now added the chafing of my pro- 
jecting bones on the hard bed. 

On Friday we came to a village of civil people on the 
banks of the Loajima itself, and we were wet all day in 
consequence of crossing it. The bridges over it, and 
another stream which we crossed at mid-day, were sub- 
merged, as we have hitherto invariably found, by a flood 
of perfectly-clear water. At the second ford we were met 
by a hostile party, who refused us farther passage. 1 
ordered my men to proceed in the same direction we had 
been pursuing, but our enemies spread themselves out in 
front of us with loud cries. Our numbers were about 
equal to theirs this time, so I moved on at the head of my 
men. Some ran off to other villages, or back to their own 
village, on pretence of getting ammunition ; others called 
out that all traders came to them, and that wo must do 
the same. As these peo2)le had plenty of iron-hoaded 
arroTVS and some guns, when wo came to t'ne edge of 
the forest I ordered my men to put the luggage in our 
centre, and, if our enemies did not fire, to cut down 
some young trees and mak« a screen as quickly as possible; 
but do nothing to them except in case of actual attack. I 



220 CONTINUED DEMANDS. 

ihen dismounted, and, advancing a little toward oui prin* 
cipal opponent, showed him how easily I could kill him, 
but pointed upward, saying, "I fear God." He did the 
feame, placing his hand on his heart, pointing upward, and 
fraying, '^I fear to kill; but come to our village; come: do 
come." At this juncture, the old head-man, longa Panza, 
A venerable negro, came up, and I invited him and all to 
be seated, that we might talk the matter over. longa 
P&flza soon let us know that he thought himself very ill 
treated in being passed by. As most skirmishes arise 
from misunderstanding, this might have been a serious 
one; for, like all the tribes near the Portuguese settle- 
ments, people here imagine that they have a right to 
demand payment from every one who passes through the 
country ; and now, though longa Panza was certainly no 
match for my men, yet they were determined not to forego 
their right without a struggle. I removed with my men 
to the vicinity of the village, thankful that no accident had 
as yet brought us into actual collision. 

The reason why the people have imbibed the idea so 
strongly that they have a right to demand payment for 
leave to pass through the country is probably this. They 
have seen no traders except those either engaged in pur- 
chasing slaves or who have slaves in their employment 
These slave-traders have always been very much at the 
mercy of the chiefs through whose country they have 
passed ; for, if they afforded a ready asylum for runaway 
slaves, the traders might be deserted at any moment, and 
stripped of their property altogether. They are thus 
obliged to curry favor with the chiefs, so as to get a safo- 
conduct from them The same system is adopted to induce 
the chiefs to part with their people, whom all feel to be the 
real source of their importance in the country. On the 
return of the traders from the interior with chains of slaves, 
it is so easy for a chief who may be so disposed to take 
away a chain of eight or ten unresisting slaves, that the 
merchant is fain to give any amount of presents in order to 



TILLAGE OF lONGA PANZA, 221 

Becure the good- will of the rulers. The independent chiefs, 
not knowing why their favor is so eagerly sought, become 
excessively proud and supercilious in their demands, and 
look upon white men with the greatest contempt. To such 
lengths did the Bangala, a tribe near to which we had now 
approached, proceed a few years ago, that they compelled 
the Portuguese traders to pay for water, wood, and even 
grass, and every possible pretext was invented for levying 
fines ; and these were patiently submitted to so long as the 
slave-trade continued to flourish. We had unconsciously 
come in contact with a system which was quite unknown 
in the country from which my men had set out. An 
English trader may there hear a demand for payment of 
guides, but never, so far as I am aware, is he asked to pay 
for leave to traverse a country. The idea does not seem 
to have entered the native mind, except through slave- 
traders; for the aborigines all acknowledge that the un- 
tilled land, not needed for pasturage, belongs to God alone, 
and that no harm is done by people passing through it. I 
rather believe that, wherever the slave-trade has not pene- 
trated, the visits of strangers are esteemed a real privilege 

The village of old longa Panza (lat. 10° 25' S., long. 20^ 
15' E.) is small, and embowered in lofty evergreen trees, 
which were hung around with fine festoons of creepers, 
He sent us food immediately, and soon afterward a goat, 
which was considered a handsome gift, there being but few 
domestic animals, though the country is well adapted for 
them. I suspect this, like the country of Shinte and Ka- 
tema, must have been a tsetse district, and only recently 
rendered capable of supporting other domestic animals be- 
tide* the goat by the destruction of the game through the 
toxtendive introduction of fire-arms. We might all have 
been as ignorant of the existence of this insect-plague as 
the Portuguese, had it not been for the numerous migra- 
tions of pastoral tribes which took place in the south in 
wn sequence of Zulu irruptions. 

During these exciting scenes I always forgot my foverj 

19* 



222 DIFFICULTY WITH THE GUIDES 

but a terrible sense of sinking came back witb the feeling 
of safety. The same demand of payment for leave to pass 
was made on the 20th by old longa Panza as by the other 
Chiboque. I offered the shell presented by Shinte, but 
longa Panza said he was too old for ornaments. We might 
have succeeded very well with him, for he was by do 
means unreasonable, and had but a very small village of 
Bupporters; but our two guides from Kangenke compli- 
cated our difiiculties by sending for a body of Bangala 
traders, with a view to force us to sell the tusks of Seke- 
letu and pay them with the price. We offered to pay 
Ihem handsomely if they would perform their promise of 
guiding us to Cassange, but they knew no more of the 
paths than we did; and my men had paid them repeatedly 
and tried to get rid of them, but could not. They now 
joined with our enemies, and so did the traders. Two 
guns and some beads belonging to the latter were standing 
in our encampment, and the guides seized them and ran 
off. As my men knew that we should be called upon to 
replace them, they gave chase, and when the guides saw 
that they would be caught they threw down the guns, 
directed their flight to the village, and rushed into a hut. 
The doorway is not much higher than that of a dog's ken- 
nel. One of the guides was reached by one of my men as 
he was in the act of stooping to get in, and a cut was 
inflicted on a projecting part of the body which would have 
made any one in that posture wince. The guns were 
restored, but the beads were lost in the flight. All I had 
remaining of my stock of beads could not replace those 
lost ; and, though we explained that we had no part in the 
guilt of the act, the traders replied that we had brought 
the thieves into the country ; these were of the Bangala, 
who had been accustomed to plague the Portuguese in the 
most vexatious way. We were striving to get a passage 
through the countiy, and, feeling anxious that no crime 
whatever should be laid to our chai'ge, tried the oouciUs 



DISCOURAGEMENTS. • 223 

tory Y)lan heie, though we were not, as in the other in- 
stances, likely to be overpowered by numbers. 

My men offered all their ornaments, and I offered all my 
beads and shirts; but, though we had come to the village 
against our will, and the guides had also followed us con- 
trary to our desire, and had even sent for the Bangala 
traders without our knowledge or consent, yet matters 
could not be arranged without our giving an ox and one 
of the tusks. We were all becoming disheartened, and 
could not wonder that native expeditions from the interior 
to the coast had generally failed to reach their destinations. 
My people were now so much discouraged that some pro- 
mised to return home : the prospect of being obliged to 
return when just on the threshold of the Portuguese set- 
tlements distressed me exceedingly. After using all ni}' 
powers of persuasion, I declared to them that if they re- 
turned I would go on alone, and went into my little tent 
with the mind directed to Him who hears the sighing of 
the soul, and was soon followed by the head of Mohorisi, 
saying, " We will never leave you. Do not be disheartened. 
Wherever you lead we will follow. Our remarks were 
made only on account of the injustice of these people.'' 
Others followed, and with the most artless simplicity of 
manner told me to be comforted: 'Hhey were all my chil- 
dren; they knew no one but Sekeletu and me, and they 
would die for me; they had not fought, because I did not 
wish it; they had just spoken in the bitterness of theii 
spirit, and when feeling that they could do nothing; but 
if these enemies begin you will see what we can do.'' One 
of the oxen we offered to the Chiboque had been rejected 
because he had lost part of his tail, as they thought that it 
had been cut off and witchcraft-medicine inserted; and 
some mirth was excited by my proposing to raise a similar 
objection to all the oxen we still had in our possession. 
The remaining four soon presented a singular shortness of 
their caudal extremities, and, though no one ever asked 
whether they had medicine in the stumps or no, we wer« 



224 ^ GUIDES PEEPAID. 

no more troubled by tbe demand for an ox ! We now 
slaughtered another ox, that the spectacle might not be 
seen of the owners of the cattle fasting while the Chiboque 
were feasting. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE REACHES THE WEST COAST OF AFRICA. 

24:tJi. — Tonga Panza's sons agreed to act as guides into 
the territory of the Portuguese if I would give them the 
shell given by Shinte. I was strongly averse to this, and 
especially to give it beforehand, but yielded to the entreaty 
of my people to appear as if showing confidence in these hope- 
ful youths. They urged that they wished to leave the shell 
with their wives as a sort of payment to them for enduring 
their husbands' absence so long. Having delivered the pre- 
cious shell, w^e went west-by-north to the river Chikapa, 
which here (lat. 10° 22' S.) is forty or fifty yards wide, 
and at present was deep; it was seen flowing over a rocky, 
broken cataract with great noise about half a mile above 
our ford. AYe were ferried over in a canoe made out of a 
single piece of bark sewed together at the ends, and having 
sticks placed in it at different parts to act as ribs. 

Next morning our guides went only about a mile, and 
then told us they would return home. I expected this 
when pajing them beforehand, in accordance with the en- 
treaties of the Makololo, who are rather ignorant of the 
world. Ycry energetic remonstrances were addressed to 
the guides, but they slipped off one by one in the thick 
forest through which w^e w^ere passing, and I w^as glad to 
hear my comp&.nions coming to the conclusion that, as we 
were now in parts visited by traders, we did not require 
the guides, whose chief use had been to f)revent misappre- 
hension of cur objects in the minds of the villagers. 



TRADERS. 225 

26^/i.— We spent Sunday on the banks of the Quilo oi 
Kweelo, here a stream of about ten 3'ards wide. It luna 
in a deep glen, the sides of which are almost five hundred 
yards of slope, and rocky, the rocks being hardened cal- 
careous tufa lying on clay shale and sandstone below, wiib 
a cappiLg of ferruginous conglomerate The scenery would 
have been very pleasing, but fever took away much of the 
joy of life, and severe daily intermittents rendered me very 
weak and always glad to recline. 

In continuing our W.K.W. course, we met many parties 
of native traders, each carrying some pieces of cloth and 
salt, with a few beads to barter for bees' -wax. They aro 
all armed with Portuguese guns, and have cartridges with 
iron balls. When we meet, we usually stand a few minutes 
They present a little salt, and we give a bit of ox-hide, or 
some other trifle, and then part with mutual good wishes. 
The hide of the oxen we slaughtered had been a valuable 
addition to our resources, for we found it in so great repute 
for girdles all through Loanda that wo cut up every skin 
into stri]!)s about two inches broad, and sold them for meal 
and manioc as we went along. As we came nearer Angola 
we found them of less value, as the people there possess 
cattle themselves. 

The village on the Kweelo, at which we spent Sunday, 
was that of a civil, lively old man, called Sakandala, whc 
oifered no objections to our progress. We found we should 
soon enter on the territory of the Bashinje, (Chinge of the 
Portuguesi?^) who are mixed with another tribe, named 
Bangala, which hav^e been at war with the Babindele or 
Portuguese. Eains and fever, as usual, helped to impede 
o^ar progress until wo were put on the path which loada 
from Cassange and Bihe to Matiamvo by a head-man 
named Kamboela. This was a well-beaten footpath, and 
soon after entering upon it we met a party of half-caste 
traders from Bihe, who confirmed the information we had 
already got of this path leading straight to Cassange, 
through which they had come on their way from Bihe to 



226 VALLEY OF THE QUANGO. 

Cabiingo Tliey kindly presented my men with soiae 
tobacco, and marvelled greatly when they found that X 
Iiad never been able to teach myself to smoke. 

As we were now alone, and sure of being on the way to 
tho abodes of civilization, we went on briskly. 

On the 30th we came to a sudden descent from the high 
land, indented by deep, narrow valleys, over which we had 
lately been travelling. It is generally so steep that it can 
only be descended at particular points, and even there I 
was obliged to dismount, though so weak that I had to be 
led by my companions to prevent my toppling over in 
walking down. It was annoying to feel myself so helpless, 
for I never liked to see a man, either sick or well, give in 
effeminately. Below us lay the valley of the Quango. If 
you sit on the spot where Mary Queen of Scots viewed the 
battle of Langside, and look down on the vale of Clyde, 
you may see in miniature the glorious sight which a much 
greater and richer valley presented to our view. It is 
about a hundred miles broad, clothed with dark forest, 
except where the light-green grass covers meadow-lands on 
the Quango, which here and there glances out in the sun 
as it wends its way to the north. The opposite side of this 
great valley appears like a range of lofty mountains, and 
the descent into it about a mile, which, measured perpen- 
dicularly, may be from a thousand to twelve hundred feet. 
Emerging from the gloomy forests of Londa, this magnifi- 
cent prospect made us all feel as if a weight had been lifted 
off our eyelids. A cloud was passing across the middle of 
the valley, from which rolling thunder pealed, while above 
all was glorious sunlight; and when we went down to tho 
part where we saw it passmg we found that a very heavy 
thunder-shower had fallen under the path of the cloud, 
and the bottom of the valley, which from above seemed 
quite smooth, we discovered to be intersected by great 
numlers of deep-cut streams. Looking back from below, 
the descent appears as the edge of a table-land, with 
numerous indented dells and spurs jutting out all along 



VALLEY OP THE QUANGO. 227 

giving it a serrated appearance. Eotli the top and Bides 
of the sierra are covered with trees; but large pacches 
of the more perpendicular parts are bare, and exhibit the 
red soil which is general over the region we have now 
entered. 

The hollow affords a section of this part of the country; 
and we find that the uppermost stratum is the ferruginous 
conglomerate already mentioned. The matrix is rust of 
iron, (or hydrous peroxide of iron and hematite,) and in it 
are embedded water- worn pebbles of sandstone and quartz. 
As this is the rock underlying the soilof a large part of Londa, 
its fonnation must have preceded the work of denudation by 
an arm of the sea which washed away the enormous mass 
of matter required before the valley of Cassange could as- 
sume its present form. The strata under the conglomerate 
are all of red clay shale of different degrees of hardness, 
the most indurated being at the bottom. This red clay 
shale is named ^' keele'^ in Scotland, and has always been 
considered as an indication of gold; but the only thing we 
discovered was that it had given rise to a very slippery 
clay soil, so different from that which we had just kft that 
Mashauana, who always prided himself on being an adept 
at balancing himself in the canoe on water, and so sure of 
foot on land that he couid afford to express contempt for 
any one less gifted, came down in a very sudden and un- 
dignified manner, to the delight of all whom he had pre- 
viously scolded for falling. 

Sunday, April 2. — We rested beside a small stream, and 
our hunger being now very severe, from having lived on 
manioc alou-e sin-co leaving longa Panza's, we slaughtered 
one of our four lemaining oxen. We could get neither 
meal nor manioc, but should havo been comfortable had not 
the Bashinjo chief Sansawe pestered us for the customary 
present. The native traders informed us that a display of 
force was often necessary before they could pass this man. 

Sansawe, the chief of a portion of the Basbinje, having 
Bent the us'ial formal demand for a man, an ox, or a tusk, 



i28 THE CHIEF SANSAWE. 

spoke very eontemptnously of the poor tilings we offered 
him instead We told his messengers that the tusks were 
Sokeletu's : every thing was gone except my instrumentft. 
which could be of no use to them whatever. One of theni 
Iregged some meat^ and, when it was refused, said to my 
men, " You may as well give it, for we shall take all after 
we have killed yon to-morrow. '^ The more humbly wq 
spoke, the more insolent the Bashinje became, till at last 
we were all feeling savage and sulky, but continued to 
Bpeak as civilly as we eould. They are fond of argument, 
ftnd, when I denied their right to demand tribute from a 
white man who did not trade in slaves, an old Avhite- 
headed negro put rather a posing question : — " You know 
that God has placed chiefs among us whom we ought to 
support. How is it that you, who have a book that tells 
you abont him, do not come forward at once to pay this 
chief tribute like every one else ?" I replied by asking, 
''How could I know that this was a chief, who had allowed 
me to remain a day and a half near him without giving me 
nny thing to eat ?" This, which to the uninitiated may 
seem sophistry, was to the Central Africans qnite a rational 
question ; for he at once admitted that food ought to have 
been sent, and added that probably his chief was only 
making it ready for me, and that it would come soon. 

After being wearied by talking all day to different par- 
ties sent by Sansawe, we were honored by a visit from 
himself: he is quite a young man, and of rather a pleasing 
countenance. There cannot have been much intercourse 
between real Portuguese and these people even here, eo 
close to the Qaango, for Sansawe asked me to show hira 
ni^- hair, on the ground that, though he had heard of it, 
and some white men had even passed through his country, 
he had never seen straight hair before. This is quite pos- 
Bible, as most of the slave-traders are not Portuguese, but 
half-castes. The difference between their wool and our haii 
caused him to burst into a laugh, and the contrast betweeia 
the exposed and unexposed parts of my skin, when exhibited 



HOSTILITY OF 'xHE BASHINJE. 229 

in evidence of our all being made of one stock ori finally; 
and the children of one Maker, seemed to strike him with 
wonder. T then showed him my watch, and wished to 
win my way into his confidence by conversation; but, when 
about to exhibit my pocket -compass, he desired me to de- 
sist, as he was afraid of my wonderful things. 1 told him, 
If ho knew my aims as the tribes in the interior did, and 
as I hoped he would yet know them and me, he would be 
glad to stay, and see also the pictures of the magic lan- 
tern ; but, as it was now getting dark, he had evidently got 
enough of my witcherj^, and began to use some charms to 
dispel any kindly feelings he might have found stealing 
round his heart. He asked leave to go, and when his party 
moved off a little way ho sent for my spokesman, and 
told him that, " if we did not add a red jacket and a man 
to our gift of a few copper rings and a few pounds of meat, 
we must return by the way we had com-c." I said, in 
reply, '^ that we should certainly go forward next day, and 
if he commenced hostilities the blame before God would 
be that of Sansawe ;" and my man added, of his own ac- 
cord, *^How many white men have you killed in this path ?'' 
which might be interpreted into, " You have never killed 
any white man; and you will find ours more difficult to 
manago than you imagine." It expressed a determination, 
which we had often repeatod to each other, to die rather 
than yieid one of our party to be a slave. 

Hunger has a powerful effect on the temper. When we 
had got a good meal of meat, we could all bear the petty 
annoyances of these borderers on the more civilized region 
in front with equanimity; but, having suffered considerably 
of late, we were all rather soured in our feelings, and not 
unfrequently I overheard my companions remark in thoir 
own tongue, in answer to threats of attack, "That's what 
we want: only begin, then;" or with clenched teeth they 
would exclaim to each other, "These things have never 
travelled, and do not know what men are." The worrying, 

of which I give only a slight sketch, had considerable in* 

20 



230 THE QUANGO. 

fluence on my mind, and more espec.ally as it was impos< 
sible to make any allowance for the Basbinje sueh as 1 
was willing to award to the Chiboque. They saw that we 
had nothing to give, nor would they be benefited in the 
least by enforcing the impudent order to return whence 
we had come. They were adding insult to injury, and this 
put us all into a fighting spirit, and, as nearly as we could 
judge, wc; expected to he obliged to cut our way through 
the Bashinje next morniog. 

3i April.— As soon as day dawned we were astir, and, 
getting off in a drizzling rain, passed close to the village. 
This rain probably damped the ardor of the robbers. 
We, however, expected to be fired upon from every clump 
of trees, or from some of the rocky hillocks among which 
we weie passing; and it was only after two hours' march 
that we began to breathe freely, and my men remarked, 
in thankfulness, ^'Wc are children of Jesus." We con- 
tinued our course, notwithstanding the rain, across the 
bottom of the Quango valley, which we found broken by 
clay shale rocks jutting out, though lying nearly horizon- 
tally. We passed many villages during this drenching, 
one of which possessed a flock of sheep; and after six 
hours we came to a stand near the river Quango, (lat. 9*^ 
53' S., long. 18° 37' E.,) which may be called the boundary 
of the Portuguese claims to territory on the west. As 1 
bad now no change of clothing, I was glad to cower under 
the shelter of my blanket, thankful to God for his good- 
ness in bringing us so far without losing one of the 
party. 

ith April. — We were now on the banks of the Quango, a 
river one hundred and fifty yards wide, and very deep. The 
water was discolored, — a circumstance which we had ob- 
served in no other river in Londa or in the Makololo 
country. This fine river flows among extensive meadows 
clothed with gigantic grass and reeds, and in a directioD 
nearly north. 

We were advised not to sleep near it; but, as we were 



DIFFICULTY WITH BASHINJE CHIEI . 



281 



anxious to cross to the western side, we tried to induce 
some of the Bashinje to lend us canoes for the purpose. 
This brought out the chief of these parts, who informed us 
that all the canoe-men were his children, and nothing 
could be done without his authority. lie then made tlie 
usual demand for a man, an ox, or a gun, adding that 
otherwise we must return to the country from which we 
had come. As I did not believe that this man had any 
power over the canoes of the other side, and suspected that 




BASHINJE CHIEF'S MODE OF WEARING THE HAIR. 

if 1 gave him my blanket — the only thing I now had In 
reserve — he might leave us in the lurch after all, I tried to 
persuade my men to go at once to the bank, about two 
miles off, and obtain possession of the canoes before we 
gave up the blanket; but they thought that this chief 
might attack us in the act of crossing, should we do so.. 
The chief came himself to our encampment and made his 
demand again. My men stripped off the last of their cop- 
per rings and gave them ; but he was still intent on a man 



232 0PP0RTUNJ5 AID. 

He thought, as others did, that my men were slaves. He 
was a young man, with woolly hair elaborately dressed; 
thai, behind was made up into a cone, about eight icohos 
in diameter at the base, carefully swathed round with red 
and black thread. As I resisted the proposal to deliver up 
my blanket until they had placed us on the western bank, 
this chief continued to worry us with his demands till I 
was tired. My little tent was now in tatters, and, having 
a wider hole behind than the door in front, I tried in vain 
to lie down out of sight of our persecutors. We were on a 
reedy flat, and could not follow our usual plan of a small 
stockade in which we had time to think over and concoct 
our plans. As I was trying to persuade my men to move 
on to the bank in spite of these people, a young half-caste 
Portuguese sergeant of militia, Cypriano di Abreu, made 
his appearance and gave the same advice. He had come 
across the Quango in search of bees'- wax. When we 
moved off from the chief who had been plaguing us, his 
people opened a fire from our sheds, arA continued to blaze 
away some time in the direction we were going; but none 
of the bullets reached us. It is probable that they ex- 
pected a demonstration of the abundance of ammunition' 
they possessed would make us run; but, when we con- 
tinued to move quietly to the ford, they proceeded no 
farther than our sleeping-place. Cypriano assisted us in 
making a more satisfactory arrangement with the ferry- 
man than parting with my blanket; and as soon as we 
reached the opposite bank we were in the territory of the 
liangala, who are subjects of the Portuguese, and often 
9pv)kcn of as the Cassanges or Cassantse; and happily all 
our difficulties with the border-tribes were at an end. 

Passing with light hearts through the high grass by a 
narrow footpath about three miles west of the river, we came 
to several neat square houses, with many cleanly-looking 
balf-taste Portuguese standing in front of them to salute 
ns The}' are all enrolled in the militia, and our friend 
Cypriano is the commander Df a division established hero 



CYPRIAAO'S GENEROUS HOSPITALITY. 233 

We came to the dwelling of Cypriano after dark, and I 
pitched my little tent in front of it for the night. We had 
the company of mosquitos here. We never found them 
troublesome on the banks of the pure streams of Lvjnda. 
On the morning of the 5th, Cypriano generously supplied 
my men with pumpkins and maiz3, and then invited me to 
breakfast, which consisted of groundnuts and roasted 
maize, then boiled manioc-roots and groundnuts, v/ith 
guavas and honey as a dessert. I felt sincerely gi aleful 
for this magnificent breakfast. 

At dinner Cypriano was equally bountiful, and several 
of his friends joined us in doing justice to his hospitality 
Before eating, all had water poured on the hands by a 
female slave to wash them. One of the guests cut up a 
fowl with a knife and fork. Neither forks nor spoons were 
used in eating. The repast was partaken of with decency 
and good manners, and concluded by washing the hands as 
at first. 

Much of the civility shown to us here was, no doubt, 
owing to the flattering letters of recommendation I carried 
from the Chevalier Du Prat, of Cape Town; but I am 
inclined to believe that my friend Cypriano was influenced; 
too, by feelings of genuine kindness, for he quite bared his 
garden in feeding us during the few days which I remained, 
anxiously expecting the clouds to disperse so far as to 
allow of my taking observations for the determination of 
the position of the Quango. He slaughtered an ox for us, 
and furnished his mother and her maids with manioc-roots, 
to prepare farina for the four or five days of our journey to 
Cassange, and never even hinted at payment. My wretched 
appearance must have excited his compassion. 

We were detained by rains and a desire to ascertain our 
geographical position till Monday, the 10th, and only got 
the latitude 9° 50' S., and, after three days' pretty hard 
travellij.g through the long grass, reached Cassange, the 
fartliest inland station of the Portuguese in Western Africa. 
I made my entrance in a somewhat forlorn state as to 

20* 



234 ARRIVAL AT CASSANGE. 

clothing among our Portuguese allies. The first gentleman 
I met in the village asked if I had a passport, and said it 
was necessary to take me before the authorities. As I was 
In the same state of mind in which individuals arc who 
commit a petty depredation in order to obtain the shelter 
and food of a prison, I gladly accompanied him to the house 
of the commandant or Chefe, Senhor de Silva Eego. Having 
shown my passport to this gentleman, he politely asked me 
to supper, and, as we had eaten nothing excej^t the farina 
of Cypriano from the Quango to this, I suspect I appeared 
particularly ravenous to the other gentlemen around the 
table. They seemed, however, to -understand my position 
pretty well, from having all travelled extensively them- 
selves : had they not been present, I might have put some 
in my pocket to eat by night ; for, after fever, the appetite 
is excessively keen, and manioc is one of the most unsatisfy- 
ing kinds of food. Captain Antonio Eodrigues Neves then 
kindly invited me to take up my abode in his house. Next 
morning this generous man arrayed me in decent clothing, 
and continued during the whole period of my stay to treat 
me as if I had been his brother. I feel deeply grateful to 
him for his disinterested kindness. He not only attended 
to my Avants, but also furnished food for my famishing 
party free of charge. 

The village of Cassange (pronounced Kassanje) is com- 
posed of thirty or forty traders' houses, slattered about, 
without any regularity, on an elevated flat spot in the great 
Quango or Cassange valley. They are built of wattle and 
daub, and surrounded by plantations of manioc, maize, &c, 
There are about forty Portuguese traders m this district, 
all of whom are officers in the militia, and many of them 
have become rich from adopting the plan of sending out 
pombeiros, or native traders, with large quantities of goods, 
to trade in the more remote parts of the country. If 1 
might judge from the week of feasting I passed among 
them, they are generally prosperous. 

As I always jireferred to appeal In my owr proper cha* 



PORTUGUESE JURIOSITT. 235 

racier, 1 was an object of curiosity to these hospitable 
Portuguese. They evidently looked upon me as an agent 
, of the English Government engaged in some new move 
ment for the suppression of slavery. They could not divine 
what a '^ missionario" had to do with latitudes and longi- 
tudes, Avhich I was intent on observing. When we became 
a little familiar, the questions put were rather amusing :— » 
" Is it common for missionaries to be doctors ?" " Are you 
a doctor of medicine and a ^ doutor mathematico' too ? 
You must be more than a missionary to know how to calcu- 
late the longitude. Come ; tell us at once what rank you 
hold in the English army.'' They may have given credit 
to my reason for wearing the mustache, as that explains 
why men have beards and women have none; but that 
which puzzled many besides my Cassange friends was the 
anomaly of my being a " sacerdote,'' with a wife and four 
children ! I usually got rid of the last question by putting 
another ; — " Is it not better to have children with a wife than 
to have children without a wife?" But all were most kind 
and hospitable; and, as one of their festivals was near, they 
invited me to partake of the feast. 

The anniversary of the Resurrection of our Savior was 
observed on the 16th of April as a day of rejoicing, though 
the Portuguese have no priests at Cassange. The colored 
population dressed up a figure intended to represent Judas 
Iscariot, and paraded him on a riding-ox about the village r 
sneers and maledictions were freely bestowed on the poor 
wretch thus rej>resented. The slaves and free colored popu- 
lation, dressed in their gayest clothing, made visits to all 
the principal merchants, and, wishing them " a good feast," 
expected a present in return. This, though frequently 
granted in the shape of pieces of calico to make now 
dresses, was occasionally refused; but the rebuff did not 
much affect the petitioner. 

At ten A.M. wo went to the residence of the commandant, 
and, on a signal being given, two of the four brass guns 
belonging to the Government commenced firing, and con* 



236 "SO PREJUDICE AGAINST COLOR 

tinned some time, to the great admiration of my men^ 
whose ideas of the power of a cannon are very exalted. 
The Portuguese flag was hoisted and trumpets sounded, as , 
an ex2)ression of joy at the resurrection of our Lord. Cap 
tain Neves invited all the principal inhabitants of the place^ 
and did what he could to feast them in a princely style 
All manner of foreign preserved fruits and wine from Por-- 
tugal, biscuits from America, butter from Cork, and beer 
from England, were displayed, and no expense spared ia 
rendering the entertainment joyous. After the feast waa 
over, they sat dowm to the common amusement of caid- 
playing, w^hich continued till eleven o'clock at night. As 
far as a mere traveller could judge, they seemed to bo 
polite and willing to aid each other. They live in a febrilo 
disti'ict, and many of them had enlarged spleens. They 
have neither doctor, apothecary, school, nor priest, and, 
when taken ill, trust to each other and to Providence. As 
men left in such circumstances must think for themselves, 
they have all a good idea of what ought to be done in the 
common diseases of the country, and what they have 
of either medicine or skill they freely impart to each 
other. 

None of these gentlemen had Portuguese wives. They 
usually come to Africa in order to make a little money, 
and return to Lisbon. Hence they seldom bring their 
wives with them, and never can be successful colonists in 
consequence. It is common for them to have families by 
native women. It was particularly gratifying to me, w^ho 
had been familiar with the stupid prejudice against color 
entertained only by those who are themselves becoming 
tawny, to view the liberality with which people of color 
were treated by the Portuguese. Instances, so commou 
in the south, in which half-caste children are abandoned, 
are here extremely rare. They are acknowledged at table, 
and provided for by their fathers as if European. The 
colored clerks of the merchants sit at the same table with 
their employers without any embarrassment The civi] 



COUNTRY AROUND CASSANGE- 237 

manners of superiors to inferiors is probably the result of 
the position they occupy — a few whites among the usands 
of blacks; but nowhere else in Africa is there so much 
good-will between Europeans and natives as here. If some 
border-colonists had the absolute certainty of our Govern- 
ment declining to bear them out in their arrogance, we 
should probably hear less of Gaffre insolence. It is inso- 
lence which begets insolence. 

From the village of Cassange we have a good view of 
the surrounding country : it is a gently-undulating plain, 
covered with grass and patches of forest. The western 
edge of the Quango valley appears, about twenty milea 
off, as if it were a range of lofty mountains, and passes by 
the name of Tala Mungongo, ('^Behold the Eange.") In 
the old Portuguese map, to which I had been trusting in 
planning my route, it is indicated as Talla Mugongo, or 
^'Castle of Bocks r' and the Coanza is put down as rising 
therefrom; but here I was assured that the Coanza had 
its source near Bihe^ far to the southwest of this, and we 
should not see that ri /er till we came near Pungo Andonga. 
It is somewhat remarkable that more accurate information 
about this country has not been published. Captain Kevea 
and others had a correct idea of the courses of the rivers, 
and communicated their knowledge freely; yet about this 
time maps were sent to Europe from Angola representing 
the Quango and Coanza as the same river, and Cassango 
placed about one hundred miles from its true position. 
The frequent recurrence of the same name has probably 
helped to increase the confusion. I have crossed several 
Quangos, but all insignificant except that which drains this 
valley. The repetition of the favorite names of chiefs, as 
Catcnde, is also perplexing, as one Catende may bo mis- 
taken for another. To avoid this confusion as much as 
possible, I have refrained from introducing many names. 
Numerous villages are studded all over the valley; but 
these possess no permanence, and many more existed pro- 



2S8 SALE OP IVORY 

vious to the Portuguese expedition of 1850 to punish tht 
Bangala. 

This valley, as I have hefore remarked, is all fertile in 
the extreme. My men could never cease admiring ita 
capability for raising tneir corn {Holcus sorghum) and 
despising the comparatively-limited cultivation of the in- 
habitants. The Portuguese informed me that no manure 
is ever needed, but that the more the ground is tilled the 
better it yields. Yirgin soil does not give such a heavy 
crop as an old garden ; and, judging from the size of the 
maize and manioc in the latter, I can readily believe the 
statement. Cattle do well, too. Yiewing the valley as a 
whole, it may be said that its agricultural and pastoral 
riches are lying waste. Both the Portuguese and their 
descendants turn their attention almost exclusively to 
trade in wax and ivory; and, though the country would 
yield any amount of corn and dairy-produce, the native 
Portuguese live chiefly on manioc, and the Europeans 
purchase their flour, bread, butter, md cheese from the 
Americans. 

As the traders of Cassange were tbe first white men we 
had come to, we sold the tusks belonging to Sekeletu, which 
had been brought to test the difference of prices in the Ma- 
kololo and white men's country. The result was highly 
satisfactory to my companions, as the Portuguese give 
much larger prices for ivory than traders from the Cape 
can possibly give, who labor under the disadvantage of con- 
siderable overland expenses and ruinous restrictions. Two 
muskets, three small barrels of gunpowder, and English 
calico and baize sufficient to clothe my whole party, with 
large bunches of beads, all for one tusk, were quite delight- 
ful for those who had been accustomed to give two tusks 
for one gun. With another tusk we procured calico, which 
here is the chief currency, to pay our way down to tbe 
coast. The remaining two were sold for money to purchase 
a horse for Sekeletu at Loanda. 

The superiority of this new market was quite astound- 



DEPARTURE FROM CASSANGE. 239 

Fng to tho Makololo, and they began to abuse the traders 
by whom they had; while in their own country, been visited, 
and, as they now declared, "cheated." They had no idea 
of the value of time and carriage, and it was somewhat 
difficult for me to convince them that the reason of the dif- 
ference of prices lay entirely in what they themselves had 
done in coming here, and that, if the Portuguese should 
carry goods to their country, they would by no means be 
so liberal in their prices. They imagined that, if the Cas- 
sange traders came to Linyanti, they would continue to 
vend their goods at Cassange prices. I believe I gave them 
at last a clear idea of the manner in which prices were regu- 
lated by the expenses incurred; and when we went to 
Loanda, and saw goods delivered at a still cheaper rate, 
they concluded that it would be better for them to come to 
that city than to turn homeward at Cassange. 

Mr. Rego, the commandant, very handsomely offered me 
a soldier as a guard to Ambaca. My men told me that 
they had been thinking it would be better to turn back 
here, as they had been informed by the people of color at 
Cassange that I was leading them down to the sea-coast 
only to sell them, and they would be taken on board ship, 
fattened, and eaten, as the white men were cannibals. I 
asked if they had ever heard of an Englishman buying oi 
selling people ; if I had not refused to take a slave when 
she was offered to me by Shinte ; but, as I had always bo- 
naved as an English teacher, if they now doubted my inten- 
tions, they had better not go to the coast ; I, however, who 
expected to meet some of my countrymen there, was deter- 
mined to go on. They replied that they only thouglit it 
right to tell me what had been told to them, but they did 
not intend to leave me, and would follow wherever I 
should lead the way. This affair being disposed of for the 
time, the commandant gave them an ox, and me a friendly 
dinner before parting. All the merchants of Cassange 
accompanied us, in their hammocks carried by slaves, to 
the *^dgo of the plateau on which their village stands, and 



240 A SOLDIER-GUIDE. 

we purted with the feeling in my mind that I should never 
forget their disinterested kindness. They not only did 
every thing they could to make my men and me comfort- 
able during our stay, tut, there being no hotels in Loanda, 
they furnished me with letters of recommendation to their 
friend3 in that city, requesting them to receive me into 
their houses, for without these a stranger might find him- 
Beif a lodger in the streets. May God remember them in 
their day of need ! 

The latitude and longitude of Cassange, the most easterly 
station of the Portuguese in Western Africa, is lat. 9° 37' 
30" S and long. 17° 49' E.; consequently we had still about 
three hundred miles to traverse before we could reach the 
coast. We had a black militia-corporal as a guide. He was 
a native of Ambaca, and, like nearly all the inhabitants of 
that district, known by the name of Ambakistas, could both 
read and write. He had three slaves with him, and was 
carried by them in a "tipoia," or hammock slung to a pole. 

Having left Cassange on the 21st, we passed across tlie 
remaining portion of this excessively-fertile valley to the 
foot of Tala Mungongo. We crossed a fine little stream 
called the Lui on the 22d, and another named the Luare on 
the 24th, and then slept at the bottom of the height, which 
is from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. 

Situated a few miles from the edge of the descent, we 
found the village of Tala Mungongo, and were kindly 
accommodated with a house to sleep in, — which was very 
welcome, as we were all both wet and cold. We found 
that the greater altitude and the a2:)proach of winter 
lowered the temperature so much that many of my men 
Buffered severely from colds. At this, as at several other 
Portuguese stations, they have been provident enough to 
erect travellers' houses on the same j^rinciple as khans oi 
caravanserais of the East. They are built of the usual 
wattle and daub, and have benches of rods for the way 
farer to make his bed on; also chairs, and a table, and a 
Urge jar of water. These benches, though far from luxa- 



241 

nou3 couches, wore better than the ground under the 
rotten fragments of my gypsy-tent, for we had still showers 
occasionally, and the dews were very heavy. I continued 
to use them for the sake of the shelter they afforded, until 
I found that they were lodgings also for certain inconve- 
nient bedfellows. 

2,1th. — Five hours' ride through a pleasant country of 
forest and meadow, like those of Londa, Drought us to a 
village of Basongo, a tribe living in subjection to the Por- 
tuguese. We crossed several little streams, which wore 
flowing in the westerly direction in which we wore march- 
ing, and unite to form the Quize, a feeder of the Coanza. 
The Basongo were very civil, as indeed all the tribes wore 
who had been conquered by the Portuguese. The Basongo 
and Bangala are yet only partially subdued. The farther 
west we go from this the less independerjt we find the 
black population, until Ave reach the viciuity of Loanda, 
where the free natives are nearly identical in their feelings 
toward the Government with the slaves. But the go- 
vernors of Angola wisely accept the limited allegiance and 
tribute rendered by the more distant tribes as better than 
none. 

We spent Sunday, the 30th of April, at Ngio, close to 
the ford of the Quize as it crosses our path to fall into the 
Coanza. The country becomes more open, but is still 
abundantly fertile, with a thick crop of grass between two 
and three feet high. It is also well wooded and watered. 
Villages of Basongo are dotted over the landscape, and 
frequently a square house of wattle and daub, belonging to 
native Portuguese, is placed beside them for the purposes 
of trade. 

Pitsane and another of the men had violent attacks of 
fever, and it was no wonder; for the dampness and evapo- 
ration from the ground was excessive. When at any time 
I attempted to get an observation of a star, if the trough 
oi mercury \^^i:irc> placed on the ground, so much moisture 

was condensed on the inside of the glass roof over it thai 
Q 21 



242 FEVER — ARRIVAL AT AMBACA. 

it was witn difficulty the reflection of the star could be 
Been. When the trough was placed on a box to prevent 
the moisture entering from below, so much dew was de- 
posited on the outside of the roof that it was soon neces- 
sary, for the sake of distinct vision, to wipe the glass. 
This would not have been of great consequence, but a short 
exjiosure to this dew was so sure to bring on a fresh fevey 
that 1 was obliged to give up observation by night alto- 
gether. The inside of the only covering I now had was 
not much better, but under the blanket one is not so liable 
to the ctiill which the dew produces. 

It would have afforded me pleasure to have cultivated a 
more intimate acquaintance with the inhabitants of this 
part of the country, but the vertigo produced by frequent 
fevers made it as much as 1 could do to stick on the os 
and crawl along in misery. In crossing the Lombe, my 
ox Sinbad, in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out 
a new path for himself, plunged overhead into a deep hole, 
and so soused me that I was obliged to move on to dry my 
clothing without calling on the Europeans who live on the 
bank. This 1 regretted, for all "^^e Portuguese were very 
kind, and, like the Boers placed in similar circumstances, 
feel it a slight to be passed without a word of salutation. 
But we went on to a spot whei'e orange-trees had been 
planted by the natives themselves, and where abundance 
rf that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale. 

On entering the district of Ambaca, we found the land- 
scape enlivened by the appearance of lofty mountains in 
the distance, the grass comparativelj' short, and the whole 
country at this time looking gay and verdant. We crossed 
the Lucalla by means of a large canoe kept there by a man 
who farms the ferry from the Government and charges 
dbout a penny per head. A few miles beyond the Lucalla 
we came to the village of Ambaca, an important place in 
former times, but now a mere paltry village, beautifully 
situated on a little elevation in a plain surrounded on all 
hands by lofty mountains. It has a jail, and a gooi houst 



i 



FH-UTTS OF JESUIT TEACIIINO. 213 

for the commandant, but neither fort nor clmrch^ though 
Uic ruins of a place of worship arc still standing. 

We were most kindly received by the commandant of 
Am'oaca, Arsenio de Carpo, who spoke a little English. 
He recommended wine for my debihty, and here I tock 
tho first glass of that beverage I had taken in Africa. J 
felt much refreshed, and could then realize and meditate 
on the weakening effects of the fever. They were curious 
even to myself; for, though I had tried several times since 
we left Ngio to take lunar observations, 1 could not avoid 
confusion of time and distance, neither could I hold tho 
instrument steady, nor perform a simple calculation: -hence 
many of the positions of this part of tho route were left 
till my return from Loanda. Often, on getting up in the 
mornings, 1 found my clothing as wet from perspiration as 
if it had been dipped in water. In vain had I tried to 
learn or collect words of the Bunda, oi dialect spoken in 
Angola. I forgot the days of the week and the names of 
my companions, and, had I been asked, I probably could 
not have told my own. The complaint itself occupied 
many of my thoughts. One day I suj^posed that I had got 
the true theory of it, and would certainly cure the next 
attack, whether in myself or companions; but some new 
symptoms would appear and scatter all the fine specula- 
lions which had sprung up, with extraordinary fertility, in 
one department of my brain. 

This district is said to contain upward of 40,000 souls. 
8ome ten or twelve miles to the north of the village of Am- 
baoa there once stood the missionary station of Cahenda' 
»nd it is now quite astonishing to observe the great num- 
bers who can read and write in this district. This is tho 
fruit of the labors of the Jesuit and Capuchin missionaries, 
for they taught the people of Ambaca; and ever since tho 
ex|)ulsion of the teachers by the Marquis of Pombal tho 
natives have continued to teach each other. These devoted . 
men are still held in hio;h estimation throui^hout the coun- 
try to this day. All sucak well of them, (os padres Josuitas;) 



244 THE TAMPAN. 

and, now that they are gone from this lower sphere, I could 
not help wishing that these oar Eoman Catholic fellow- 
(Jhristiaiis had felt it to be their duty to give the people 
the Bible, to be a light to their feet when the good men 
themselves were gone. 

"When sleeping in the house of the commandant, an 
insect, well known in the southern country by the name 
tampan, bit my foot. It is a kind of tick, and chooses by 
preference the parts between the fingers or toes for inflict- 
ing its bite. It is seen from the size of a pin's head to that 
of a pea, and is common in all the native huts in this coun- 
try. It sucks the blood until quite full, and is then of a 
dark-blue color, and its skin so tough and yielding that it 
is impossible to burst it by any amount of squeezing with 
the fingers. I had felt the effects of its bite in former 
years, and eschewed all native huts ever after; but, as I 
was here again assailed in a European house, I shall detail 
the effects of the bite. These are a tingling sensation of 
mingled pain and itching, which commences ascending the 
limb until the poison imbibed reaches the abdomen, where 
it soon causes violent vomiting and purging. Where these 
effects do not follow, as we found afterward at Tete, fever 
sets in ; and I was assured by intelligent Portuguese there 
that death has sometimes been the result of this fever. 
The anxiety my friends at Tete manifested to keep my 
men out of the reach of the tampans of the village made it 
evident that they had seen cause to dread this insignificant 
insect. The only inconvenience I afterward suffered from 
this bite was the continuance of the tingling sensation irn 
the point bitten for about a week. 

Atay 12. — As we Averc about to start this morning, tho 
commandant, Senhor Arsenio, provided bread and meat 
most bountifully for my use on the way to the next sta- 
tion, and sent two militia-soldiers as guides, instead of our 
Cassange corporal, who left us here. About mid-day we 
asked for shelter from the sun in the house of Senhor Mel- 
lot, at Zangu ; and, though I was unable to sit and engage 



CABINDA — QOLUNGO ALTO. 245 

in couversailoD, I found, on rising from his couch, that he 
had at once proceeded to cook a fowl for my use; and at 
parting he gave me a glass of wine, which prevented the 
violent fit of shivering I expected that afternoon. The 
universal hospitality of the Portuguese was most gratify- 
ing, as it was quite unexpected ; and even now, as I copy 
rjiy journal, I remember it all with a glow of gratitude. 

We spent Sunday, the 14th of May, at Cabinda, which is 
one of the stations of the sub-commandants, who are placed 
at different points in each district of Angola as assistants 
of the head-commandant, or chefe. It is situated in a 
beautiful glen, and surrounded by plantations of bananas 
and manioc. 

We met numbers of Mambari on their way back to Biho 
Some of them had belonged to the parties which had pene- 
trated as far as Linyanti, and foolishly showed their dis- 
pleasure at the prospect of the Makololo preferring to go 
to the coast-markets themselves to intrusting them with 
their ivory. The Mambari repeated the tale of the mode 
in which the white men are said to trade. ^' The ivory is 
loft on the shore in the evening, and next morning the 
seller finds a quantity of goods placed there in its stead by 
the white men who live on the sea." ^* Now," added they 
to my men, " how can you Makolo trade with these ^ mer- 
men' ? Can you enter into the sea and tell them to come 
ashore V It was remarkable to hear this idea repeated so 
near the sea as we now were. My men replied that they 
only wanted to see for themselves ; and, as they were now 
getting some light on the nature of the trade carried on by 
the Mambari, they were highly amused on perceiving the 
reasons why the Mambari would rather have met them on 
the Zambesi than so near the sea-coast. 

There is something so exhilarating to one of Highland 
blood in being near or on high mountains, that I forgot my 
fever as we wended our way among the lofty tree-covered 
masses of mica schist which form the highlands around the 
romantic residence of the chefe of Golungo Alto. (Lat, 9** 

21* 



246 CARRIEllS. 

8' 30" S., long. 15' 2' E.) The whole iistrict is extremely 
beautiful. The hills are all bedecked with trees of vanous 
hues of foliage, and among them towers the graceful palm, 
which yields the oil of commerce for making our soaps and 
llie intoxicating toddy. 

We were most kindly received by the comraandatt, 
Lieutenant Antonio Canto e Castro, a young gentlemaD 
whose whole subsequent conduct will ever. make me re- 
gard him with great affection. Like every other person 
of intelligence whom I had met, he lamented deeply the 
neglect with which this fine country had been treated. 
This district contained, by the last census, 26,000 hearths 
or fires ; and, if to each hearth we reckon four souls, wo 
have a population of 104,000. The number of carre- 
gadores (carriers) who may be ordered out at the pleasure 
of Government to convey merchandise to the coast is in 
this district alone about 6000 ; yet there is no good road 
in existence. This system of compulsory carriage of mer- 
chandise was adopted in consequence of the increase in 
numbers and activity of our cruisers which took place in 
1845. Each trader who went, previous to that year, into 
the interior, in the pursuit of his calling, proceeded on the 
plan of purchasing ivory and bees'-wax, and a sufficient 
number of slaves to carry these commodities. The whole 
were intended for exportation as soon as the trader reached 
the coast. But when the more stringent measures of 3 845 
came into operation, and rendered the exportation of slaves 
almost impossible, there being no roads proper for the em- 
ployment of wheel-conveyances, this new system of com- 
pulsory carriage of ivory and bees'-wax to the coast was 
resorl,ed to by the Government of Loanda. A trader who 
requires two or three hundred carriers to convey his mer- 
chandise to the coast now applies to the general Govern- 
ment for aid. An order is sent to the commandart of a 
district to furnish the number required. Each head-man 
of the villages to whom the order is transmitted mast fur- 
nish from five to twenty or thirty men, according to the 



ii 



GOLUNGO ALTO. 247 

proportion that his people bear to the entire population of 
the district. For this accommodation the trader must p:iy 
a tax to the Government of one thousand reis, or about 
three shillings, per load carried. The trader is obliged to 
pay the carrier also the sum of fifty reis, or about two- 
pence a day, for his sustenance. And, as a day's journey 
is never more than from eight to ten miles, the expense 
which must be incurred for this compulsory labor is felt to 
bo heavy by those who were accustomed to employ slave- 
labor alone. Yet no effort has been made to form a great 
line of road for wheel-carriages. The first great want of » 
country has not been attended to, and no development of 
its vast resources has taken place. The fact, however, of 
a change from one system of carriage to another, taken in 
connection with the great depreciation in the price of 
slaves near this coast, proves the eifectiveness of our eifortb 
at repressing the slave-trade on the ocean. 

The latitude of Golungo Alto, as observed at the re- 
sidence of the commandant, w.is 9° 8' 30" S., longitude 
15^ 2' E. A few days' rest with this excellent young man 
enabled me to regain much of my strength, and I could 
look with pleasure on the luxuriant scenery before his 
door. We were quite shut in among green hills, many of 
which wore cultivated up to their tops with manioc, coffee, 
cotton, groundnuts, bananas, pineapples, guavas, papaws, 
eustard-apples, pitangas, and jambos, — fruits brought from 
South America by the former missionaries. 

We left Golungo Alto on the 24th of May, — the winter 
in those parts. Every evening clouds come rolling j in 
great masses over the mountains in the west, and pealing 
thunder accompanies the fall of rain during the night or 
early in the morning. The clouds generally remain on the 
hills till the morning is well spent, so that wo become fami- 
liar with the morning mists, — a thing wo never once saw 
at Kolobeng. The thermometer stands at 80° by day, but 
tiinks as low as 76° by night. 

In going westward we crossed several fine little gushing 



248 COFFEE-ESTATE. 

Streams which never dry. They unite in the Luinlia (pro- 
nouKced Lucenya) and Lucalhi. As they flow over many 
litt.'e cascades, they might easily be turned to good account; 
hut the}- arc all allowed to run od idly to the ocean. We 
passed through forests of gigantic timber^ and, at an open 
f-jjace named Cambondo, about eight miles from Golungo 
Alto, found numbers of carpenters converting these lofty 
trees into planks, in exactly the same manner as was fol- 
lowed by the illustrious Eobinson Crusoe. A tree of three 
or four feet in diameter and forty or fifty feet up to the 
nearest branches was felled. It was then cut into lengths 
of a few feet, and split into thick junks, which again w^ero 
reduced to planks an inch thick by persevering labor with 
the axe. The object of the carpenters was to make little 
chests, and they drive a constant trade in them at Cam- 
bondo. When finished with hinges, lock, and key, all of 
their own manufacture, one costs only a shilling and eight- 
pence. M}^ men were so delighted with them that they 
carried several of them on their heads all the way to 
Linyanti. 

At Trombeta we were pleased to observe a great deal of 
taste displayed by the sub-com^nandant in the laying out 
of his ground and adornment of his house with flowers. 
This trifling incident was the more pleasing, as it was the 
first attempt at neatness I had seen since leaving the esta- 
blishment of Mozinkwa in Londa. Hows of trees had 
been planted along each side of the road, with pineapples 
and flowers betw^een. This arrangement I had an oppor- 
tunity of seeing in several other districts of this country, 
for there is no difl8.culty in raising any plant or tree if it ia 
only kept from being choked by weeds. 

This gentleman had now a fine estate, which but a few 
years ago was a forest and cost him only £16. Tie had 
plaiUed about nine hundred coff'ee-trees upon it, and as 
these begin to yield in three j^ears from being planted, and 
in six attain their maximum, I have no doubt but that ero 
uow his £13 yields him sixty-fold. All sorts cf fruit-treee 



MOSQUITOS. 249 

and grape-vines yield their fruit twi:e in each year, with- 
out any labor or irrigation being bestowed on them. All 
grains and vegetables, if only sown, do the same; and, if 
advantage is taken of the mists of winter, even three crops 
of pulse may be raised. Cotton was now standing in the 
pods in his fields, and he did not seem to c&re about it. i 
understood him to sa}^ that this last plant flourishes, but the 
wet of one of the two rainy seasons with which this couu' 
try is favored sometimes proves troublesome to the grower. 
I am not aware whether wheat has ever been tried, but 1 
saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The great com- 
plaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry 
their produce to market. Here all kinds of food are re- 
markably cheap. 

Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we 
descended toward the west coast, saw the lands assuming 
a more sterile, uninviting aspect. On our right ran the 
river Senza, which nearer the sea takes the nameof Bengo 
It is about fifty yards broad, and navigable for canoes 
The low plains adjacent to its banks are j^rotected froic 
inundation by embankments, and the population is entirely 
occupied in raising food and fruits for exportation to 
Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are infested by 
myriads of the most ferocious mosquitos I ever met. Not 
one of our party could get a snatch of sleep. 1 was taken 
into the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make 
my escape and lie across the path on the lee side of the 
fire, where the smoke blew over my body. My hoftt won- 
dered at my want of taste, and I at his want of feeling; 
for, to our astonishment, he and the other inhabitants had 
actually become used to what was at least equal to a naii 
through the heel of one's boot, or the toothache. 

As we were now drawing near to the sea, my com- 
panions were looking at every thing in a serious light. One 
of them asked me if we should all have an opportunity of 
watching each other at Loanda. ^< Suppose one went lif)r 
water: wou d the others see if he were kidnapped?* 1 



250 FEARS OP THE MAKOLOLO. 

replied, ''1 sec what you are driving at; and if you suspect 
mc you may return, for I am as ignorant of Loanda as 
you arc; but nothing will happen to you but what happens 
to myself. We have stood by each other hitherto, and will 
do so to the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are 
somewhat elevated and comparatively sterile. On coming 
across theoe we first beheld the sea : my companions 
looked upon the boundless ocean with awe. On describing 
their feelings afterward, they remarked that <^we marched 
alonir with our father, believiniir that what the ancients had 
always told us was true, that the world has no end; but all 
at once the world said to us, 'I am finished: there is no 
more of nie !' " They had always imagined that the world 
was one extended plain without limit. 

They were now somewhat apprehensive of suffering 
want, and I was unable to allay their fears with any pro- 
mise of supply, for my own mind was depressed by disease 
and care. The fever had induced a state of chronic dys- 
entery so troublesome that I could not remain on the ox 
more than ten minutes at a time; and as we came down 
the declivity above the city of Loanda on the 31st of May, 
I was laboring under great depression of spirits, as I under- 
stood that, in a population of twelve thousand souls, there 
was but one genuine English gentleman. I naturally felt 
anxious to know whether he were possessed of good nature, 
or was one of those crusty mortals one would rather not 
meet at all. 

This gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, our commissioner for the 
suppression of the slave-trade, had kindly forwarded an invi- 
tation to meet me on the way from Cassange, but, unfortu- 
nately, it crossed me on the road. When we entered his 
porch, I was delighted to see a number of flowers cultivated 
carefully, and inferred from this circumstance that he was, 
what I soon discovered him to be, a real whole-hearted 
Eufi-lishraan. 

Seeing me ill, he benevolently offered me his bed. Never 
shall I forget the luxurious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling 



CONTINUED SICKNESS. 25t 

myself again on a good Engliali couch, after six months' 
sleeping on the ground. I was soon asleep ; and Mr. Cla- 
briel, coming in almost immediately, rejoiced at the sound- 
ness of my repose. 



CHAPTER XX. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE COMMENCES HIS GREAT JOURNEY ACROSS 

AFRICA. 

In the hope that a short enjoyment of Mr. Gabrier^ 
generous hospitality would restore me to my wonted vigor, 
I continued under his roof; but, my complaint having been 
caused by long exposure to malarious influences, I became 
much more reduced than ever, even while enjoying rest. 
Several Portuguese gentlemen called on me shortly after 
my arrival; and the Bishop of Angola, the Eight Reverend 
Joaquim Moreira Reis, then the acting governor of the 
province, sent his secretary to do the same, and likewise to 
offer the services of the Government physician. 

Some of her majesty's cruisers soon came into the port, 
and, seeing the emaciated condition to which I was re- 
duced, offered to convey me to St. Helena or homeward ; 
but, though I had reached the coast, I had found that, in 
consequence of the great amount of forest, rivers, and 
marsh, there was no possibility of a highway for wai]jonB, 
and I had brought a party of Sekeletu's people with mC; 
and found the tribes near the Portuguese settlement so very 
unfriendly that it would be altogether impossible for my 
men to return alone. I therefore resolved to decline the 
tempting offers of my naval friends, and take back my Mako- 
lolo companions to their chief, with a view of trying to 
maKe a path from his country to the east coast bj; means 
of the great river Zambesi or Ijceambj'o. 

1, however, gladly availed myself of the medical asslBt* 



252 MAKOLOLO'S VISIT TO THE SHIPS. 

ance of !Mr. Cockin, the surgeon of the <' Polyphemus/ 
at the suggestion of his commander, Captain Phillips. !Mi 
Cockin's treatment, aided by the exhilarating presence 
of the warm-hearted naval officers, and Mr. Gabriel's un 
wearied hospitality and care, soon brought me round 
again. On the 14th I was so far well as to oall on the 
bishop, in company with my party, who were arrayed in 
new robes of striped cotton cloth and red caps, all pre- 
sented to them by Mr. Gabriel. He received us, as head 
of the provisional Government, in the grand hall of the 
palace. He put many intelligent questions respecting the 
Makololo, and then gave them free permission to come to 
Loanda as often as they pleased. This interview pleased 
the Makololo extremely. 

Every one remarked the serious deportment of the 
Makololo. They viewed the large stone houses and 
churches in the vicinity ol the great ocean with awe. 
A house with two stories was, until now, beyond their 
comprehension. In explanation of this strange thing, I 
had always been obliged to use the word for hut; and, an 
huts are constructed by the poles being let into the earth, 
they never could comprehend how the poles of one hut 
could bo founded upon the roof of another, or how men 
could live, in the upper story, with the conical roof of the 
lower one in the middle. Some Makololo, who had visited 
my little house at Kolobeng, in trying to describe it to 
their countrymen at Linyanti, said, ^'It is not a hut: it i? 
a mountain with several caves in it." 

Commander Bedingfeld and Captain Skene invited thom 
to visit their vessels, the ^< Pluto" and "Philomel." Know- 
ing their fears, I told them that no one need go if he 
entertained the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly the 
whole party went ; and, when on deck, I pointed to tho 
sailors, and said, "'Xow, these are all my countrymen, sent 
by our queen for the purpose oi* jjutting down the trade of 
those that buy and sell black men." They replied, " Truly ! 
they are just like you !" and all their fears seemed to 



I 



MAKOLOLO AT MASS. 253 

ranish at once, for they went forward among the men, 
and the jolly tars, acting much as the Makololo would have 
done in similar circumstances, handed them a share of the 
bread and beef which they had for dinner. The com- 
mander allowed them to fire off a cannon ; and, having 
the most exalted ideas of its power, they were greatly 
pleased when I told them, " That is what they put down 
the slave trade with." The size of the brig-of-war amazed 
them. "It is not a canoe at all: it is a town!" The 
eaiicrs' deck they named "■ the kotla ;" and then, as a 
climax to their descrij^tion of this great ark, added, ''And 
what sort of a town is it that you must climb up into with 
a rope ?" 

The effect of the politeness of the officers and men on 
their minds was most beneficial. They had behaved with 
the greatest kindness to me all the way from Linyanti, 
and I now rose rapidly in their estimation -, for, whatever 
they may have surmised before, they now saw that I was 
respected among my own countrymen, and. always after- 
ward treated me with the greatest deference. 

On the 15th there was a procession and service of the 
mass in the Cathedral; and, wishing to show my men a 
place of worship, I took them to the church, which now 
serves as the chief one of the see of Angola and Congo. 
There is an impression on some minds that a gorgeous 
ritual is better calculated to inspire devotional' feelings 
than the simple forms of the Protestant worship. But 
Here the frequent genuflexions, changing of positions, 
burning of incense, with the priests' back turned to the 
j>etple, the laughing, talking, and manifest irreverence of 
the singers, with firing of guns, &c., did not convey to the 
minds of my men the idea of adoration. I overheard 
them, 'n talking to each other, remark that "they had 
seen the white men charming their depaons;" a phrase 
identical with one thej^ had used when seeing the Balonda 
beating drums before their idols. 

In the beginnj-^g of August T suffered a severe relapse, 

22 



254 TnEIR JUDGMENT RESPECTING GOODS. 

which reduced me to a mere skeleton. I was then nnahle 
to attend to my men for a considerable time ; but, when in 
conv^alescence from this last attack^ I was thankful to find 
that ] was free from that lassitude which, in my firbt 
recovery, showed the continuance of the malaria in the 
93^stem. 1 found that mj men, without prompting, had 
established a brisk trade in firewood. They sallied fortii 
at cock-crowing in the morning, and by daylight reached 
the uncultivated parts of the adjacent country, collected 
a bundle of firewood, and returned to the city. It waa 
then divided into smaller fagots, and sold to the inhabit- 
ants ; and, as they gave larger quantities than tiie regulai 
wood-carriers, they found no difficulty in selling. A ship 
freighted with coal for the cruisers having arrived from 
England, Mr. Gabriel procured them employment in un- 
loading her at sixpence a day. They continued at this 
work for upward of a month; and nothing could exceed 
their astonishment at the vast amount of cargo one ship 
contained. As they themselves always afterward ex- 
pressed it, they had labored every day from sunrise to 
sunset for a moon and a half, unloading, as quickly as they 
could, "stones that burn,^' and were tired out, still leaving 
plenty in her. With the money so obtained they purchased 
clothing, beads and other articles to take back to their 
own country. Their ideas of the value of different kinds 
of goods rather astonished those who had dealt only with 
natives on the coast. Hearing it stated with confidence 
that the Africans preferred the thinnest fabrics, provided 
they had gaudy colors and a large extent of surface, the 
idea was so new to my experience in the interior that I 
dissented, and, in order to show the superior good sense 
of the Makololo, took them to the shop of Mr. Schut. 
"VVhsn he showed them the amount of general goods which 
they might procure at Loanda for a single tusk, I requested 
them, without assigning any reason, to point out tho fabrics 
they prized most. They all at once selected the strongest 
pieces of English calico and other cloths, showing that they 



THE BISHOP OF ANGOLA. 255 

had regard to strength without reference to color. I helieve 
that most of the Bechuana nation would have done the 
Bame. But 1 was assured that the people near the coast, 
with whom the Portuguese have to deal, have net so nuich 
regard- to durability. This probably arises from calico 
being the chief circulating-medium, — quantity being then 
of more importance than quality. 

During the period of my indisposition, the bishop sent 
frequently to make inquiries, and as soon as I was able to 
walk I went to thank him for his civih'ties. His whole 
conversation and conduct showed him to be a man of great 
benevolence and kindness of heart. Alluding to my being 
a Protestant, he stated that he was a Catholic from convic- 
tion; and though sorry to see others, like myself, following 
another path, he entertained no uncharitable feelings, noi 
would he ever sanction persecuting measures, lie com- 
pared the various sects of Christi.f>ns, in their way to 
heaven, to a number of individuals cnoosing to pass down 
the different streets of Loanda to one of the churches : all 
would arrive at the same point at last. His good influence, 
both in the city and the country, is universally acknow- 
ledged ; he was promoting the establishment of schools, 
which, though formed more on the monastic principle than 
Protestants might approve, will no doubt be a blessing. He 
was likewise successfully attempting to abolish the non- 
marriage custom of the country; and several marriages 
had taken place in Loanda among those who, but for his 
teaching, would have been content with concubinage. 

St. Paul de Ijoanda has been a very considerable city, 
but is now in a state of decay. It contains about twelve 
thousand inhabitants, most of whom are people of color.* 

* From the census of 1850-51 we find the population of this citj 
arranged thus : — 830 -vhites, only 160 of whom are females This is the 
largest collecti«"r. of whites in the country, for Angola itsell oontains only 
about 1000 whites. There are 2400 half-castes in Loanda, and only 120 
of them slaves ; an i there ar3 9000 blacks, more than 6000 of whom are 
slavee 



256 ST. PAUL DE LOANDA. 

There are various evidences of its former nagniilcence^ 
especially two cathedrals, one of which, once a Jesuit 
college, is now converted into a workshop ; and in passing 
t.he other we saw with sorrow a number of oxen feeding 
within its stately walls. Three forts continue in a ^ood 
state of repair. Many large stone houses are to be found. 
The palace of the governor and Government offices aro 
commodious structures, but nearly all the houses of the 
native inhabitants are of wattle and daub. Trees are 
j)lanted all over the town for the sake of shade, and tlie 
city presents an imposing appearance from the sea. It is 
provided with an effective police, and the custom-house 
department is extremely well managed. AH parties agree 
in representing the Portuguese authorities as both polite 
and obliging; and, if ever any inconvenience is felt by 
strangers visiting the port, it must be considered the fault 
of the system, and not of the men. 

The harbor is formed by the low, sandy island of Loanda 
which is inhabited by about 1300 souls, upward of 600 of 
whom are industrious native fishermen, wdio supply the 
city with abundance of good fish daily. The space between 
it and the mainland, on which the city is built, is the 
station for ships. When a high southwest w^nd blows, 
the waves of the ocean dash over part of the island, and, 
driving large quantities of sand before them, gradually fill 
up the harbor. Great quantities of soil are also washed 
in the rainj^ season from the heights above the city, so that 
the port, which once contained water sufficient to float the 
largest ships close to the custom-house, is now at low-water 
dry. The ships are compelled to anchor about a mile north 
of their old station. Nearly all the water consumed in 
Loanda is brought from the river TJengo by means of 
launches, the only supply that the city affords being from 
some deep wells of slightly-brackish water. Unsuccessful 
attempts hav3 been made by different governors to finish a 
canal which the Duteh, while in possession of Loanda 
during the seven years preceding 1048, had begun, to bring 



CUSTOM-HOUSE ARRANGEMENTS. 257 

water from the river Coanza to the city. There is not a 
single English merchant atLoanda^ and only two American. 
This is the more remarkable as nearly all the commerce is 
can i 3d on by means of English calico brought hither ym 
Lis])on. Several English houses attempted to establish a 
trade about 1845, and accepted bills on Eio de Janeiro in 
payment for their goods; but the increased activity of our 
cruisers had such an effect upon the mercantile houses of 
that city that most of them failed. The English merchant.s 
lost all, and Loanda fjot a bad name in the commercial 
world in consequence. 

One of the arrangements of the custom-house may have 
had some influence in preventing English trade. Ships 
coming here must be consigned to some one on the spot; 
the consignee receives one hundred dollars per mast, and 
he generally makes a great deal more for himself by put- 
ting a percentage on boats and men hired for loading and 
unloading, and on every item that passes through his hands 
The port-charges are also rendered heavy by twenty dollars 
being charged as a perquisite of the secretary of Govern- 
ment, with a fee for the chief physician, something for the 
nospital, custom-house officers, guards, &c. &c. But, with 
all these drawbacks, the Americans carry on a brisk and 
profitable trade in calico, biscuit, flour, butter, &c. &c. 

The Portuguese home Government has not generally re- 
eeived the credit for sincerity in suppressing the slave-trade 
which I conceive to be its due. In 1839, my friend Mr. 
Gabriel saw thirty-seven slave-ships lying in this harbor, 
waiting for their cargoes, under the protection of the guns 
of the forts. At that time slavers had to wait many 
months at a time for a human freight, and a certain sum 
per head was paid to the Government for all that were ex- 
poi ted. The duties derived from the exportation of slaves 
far exceeded those from other commerce, and, by agreeing 
to the suppression of this profitable traffic, the Government 
ftctiially sacrificed the chief part of i'he export-revenue. 
Since that period, however, the revenue fr^ra lawful com- 



358 CONVICT SOTiiaERS. 

merce has very much exceeded that on slaves. The inten 
tions of the home Portuguese Government, however good, 
cannot be fully carried out under the present system 
The pay of the officers is so very small that they are nearly 
all obliged to engage in trade ; and, owing to the luci ative 
nature of the slave-trade, the temptation to engage in it is 
BO powerful that the philanthropic statesmen of Lisbon 
nc^d hardly expect to have their humane and enlightened 
viAws carried out. The law, for instance, lately promul- 
gated for the abolition of the carrier-system (carregadores) 
is but one of several equally humane enactments against 
tb^s mode of compulsory labor, but there is very little pro- 
bftbility of the benevolent intentions of the legislature 
being carried into effect. 

Loanda is regarded somewhat as a penal settlement, and 
those who leave their native land for this country do so 
with the hope of getting rich in a few years and then re- 
turning home. They have thus no motive for seeking the 
permanent welfare of the country. The Portuguese law 
preventing the subjects of any other nation from holding 
landed property unless they become naturalized, the country 
has neither the advantage of native nor foreign enterprise, 
and remains very much in the same state as our allies found 
i*i in 1575. Nearly all the European soldiers sent out are 
convicts, and, contrary to what might be expected from 
men in their position, behave remarkably well. A few 
riots have occurred, but nothing at all so serious as have 
taken place in our own penal settlements. It is a remark- 
able fact that the whole of the arms of Loanda are every 
night in the hands of those who have been conviots. 
Various reasons for this mild behavior are assigned by 
the officers, but none of these, when viewed in conned ion 
with our own experience in Australia, appear to be valid 
Religion seems to have no connection with the change. 
Perhaps the climate may have some influence in subduing 
their turbulent disposition, for the inhabitants generally 
arc a timid race : they are net half so brave as our CaffrcB 



PRESENTS FOR SEKELETU. 269 

The people of Ambriz ran away like a flock of sliocp, and 
all<^wed the Portuguese to take possession of their copper- 
mineo and country without striking a blow. If we must have 
convict-settlements, attention to the climate might be of 
advantage in the selection. Here even bulls are much 
tamer than with us. T never met with a ferocious one in 
this country, and the Portuguese use them generally for 
riding : an ox is seldom seen. 

The objects which I had in view in opening up tho 
country, as stated in a few notes of my journey published 
in the newspapers of Angola, so commended themselves to 
the general Government and merchants of Loanda, that, 
at the instance of his excellency the bishop, a handsome 
present for Sekeletu was granted by the Board of Public 
Works, (Junta da Fazenda Publica.) It consisted of a 
colonel's complete uniform and a horse for the chief, and 
suits of clothing for all the men who accompanied me. The 
merchants also made a present, by public subscription, ol 
handsome specimens of all their articles of trade, and two 
donkeys, for the purpose of introducing the breed into his 
country, as tsetse cannot kill this beast of burden. These 
presents were accompanied by letters from the bishop and 
merchants; and I was kindly favored with letters of recom- 
mendation to the Portuguese authorities in Eastern Africa. 

I took with me a good stock of cotton cloth, fresh sup 
plies of ammunition and beads, and gave each of my men 
a musket. As my companions had amassed considerable 
<][uantities of goods, they were unable to carry mine; but 
the bishop furnished me with twenty carriers, and sent for- 
ward orders to all the commandants of the districts through 
which we were to pass to render me every assistance in 
their power. Being now supplied with a good new tent 
made by my friends on board the Philomel, we left Loanda 
on the 20th of September, 1854, and passed round by sea 
to the mouth ot tho river Bengo. Ascending this river, ^e 
went through the district in which stand the ruins of the 
Convent of St. Antonio; thonoo into Icollo i BongO; which 



260 SPINNING AND WFAVING. v 

contains a population of 6530 blacks, 172 mulattoes, and 11 
wliites, and is so named from haying been the residence of 
a former native king. The projDortion of slaves is only 
3 38 per cent, of the inhabitants. - The commandant of this 
place, Laurence Jose Marquis, is a frank old soldier and a 
most hospitable man : he is one of the few who secure the 
universal approbation of their fellow-men for stern unflinch- 
ing honesty, and has risen from the ranks to be a major in 
the array. We were accompanied thus far by our generoun 
host, Edmund Gabriel, Eoq., who, by his unwearied atten- 
tions lo myself, and liberality in supporting my men, had 
become endeared to all our hearts. My men were strongly 
impressed with a sense of his goodness, and often spoke of 
bim in terms of admiration all the way to Linyanti. 

2Sth September, Kalungwemho. — We were still on the same 
path by which we had come, and, there being no mosqui- 
tos, we could now better enjoy the scenery. Ranges of 
hills occupy both sides of our path, and the fine level road 
is adorned with a beautiful red flower named Bolcamaria 
The markets or sleeping-places are well supplied with pro- 
visions by great numbers of women, every one of whom ia 
seen spinning cotton with a spindle and distaff exactly like 
those which were in use among the ancient Egyptians. A 
woman is scarcely ever seen going to the fields — though 
with a pot on her head, a child on her back, and the hoe 
over her shoulder — but she is employed in this way. The 
cotton was brought to the market for sale, and I bought a 
pound for a penny. This was the price demanded, and 
probably double what they ask from each other. We saw 
the cotton growing luxuriantly all around the maiket- 
places from seeds dropped accidentally. It is seen also 
about the native huts, and, so far as I could learn, it was 
the American cotton, so influenced by climate as to bo 
perennial. We met in the road natives passing with bun- 
dles of cops, or epirs:5Je8 full of cotton thread, and these 
they were carrying i > other parts to be woven mto cloth. 
The women are the spinners, and the men perform the 



COFFEE-PLANTATIONS. 261 

weaving. Each web is about five feet long, and fifteen or 
eighteen inches wide. The loom is of the simplest construc- 
tion, being nothing but two beams placed one over the other, 
the web standing perpendicularly. The threads of the web 
are separated by means of a thin wooden lath, and the 
woof passed through by means of the spindle on which it 
has jeen wound in spinning. 

JSTumbcrs of other articles are brought for sale to these 
sleeping-places. The native smiths there carry on their 
trade. I bought ten very good table-knives, made oi 
i'ountry iron, for twopence each. 

Labor is extremely cheap, for I was assured that eveu 
carpenters, masons, smiths, &c. might be hired for four- 
pence a day; and agriculturists would gladly work for half 
that suni. 

Being anxious to obtain some more knowledge of this in- 
teresting country and its ancient missionary-establish menta 
than the line of route by which we had come afforded, 1 
resolved to visit the town of Massangano, which is situated 
to the south of Golungo Alto and at the confluence of the 
rivers Lucalla and Coanza. This led me to pass through 
the district of Cazengo, which is rather famous for the 
abundance and excellence of its coffee. Extensive coffee- 
plantations were found to exist on the sides of the seve- 
ral lofty mountains that compose this district. They were 
not planted by the Portuguese. The Jesuit and other mis- 
sionaries are known to have brought some of the fine old 
Mocha seed, and these have propagated themselves far and 
v\ ide : hence the excellence of the Angola coffee. Some 
httve asserted that, as new plantations were constantly dis 
covered even during the period of our visit, the coffee- tret 
wag indigenous; but the fact that pineapples, bananas, 
yani3, orange-trees, custard -apple-trees, pitangas, guavas, 
and other South American trees were found by me in tho 
same localities with the recently-discovered coffee would 
eeera to indicate that all foreign trees must have been 
introduced by the same agency. it is known that the 



262 RUINS OF IRON-FOUNDRY. 

Jesuits also introduced many other trees for the sake Of 
tlieir timber alone. Numbers of these have spread over 
the couii.'ry; some have probably died out and others failed 
t3 spread, like a lonely specimen that stands in what was 
th« Botanic Garden of Loan da, and, though, most useful 
in yielding a substitute for frankincense, is the ou\j on© 
oi the kind in Africa. 

Accompanied by the commandant of Cazeugo, who was 
well acquainted with this part of the country, 1 pro- 
ceeded in a canoe down the river Lucalla to Massano-ano. 
This river is about eight^^-five yards wnde, and navigable for 
canoes from its confluence with the Coanza to about six 
miles above the point where it receives the Luinha. Kcar 
this latter point stand the strong, massive ruins of an iron- 
foundry erected in the times (1768) and by the order of the 
famous Marquis of Pombal. The whole of the buildings 
were constructed of stone cemented with oil and lime. The 
dam for water-power was made of the same materials, and 
twenty-seven feet high. This had been broken through by 
a flood, and solid blocks, many j-ards in length, Avere carried 
down the stream, aff'ording an instructive example of the 
:ransporting-pow^er of water. There was nothing in the 
appearance of the place to indicate unhealthiness; but 
eight Spanish and Swedish workmen, being brought hither 
for the purpose of instructing the natives in the art of 
smelting iron, soon fell victims to disease and " irregulari- 
ties." The eff'ort of the marquis to improve the mode of 
manufacturing iron v/as thus rendered abortive. Labor 
and subsistence are, however, so very cheap that almost 
any amount of work can be executed at a cost that renders 
expensive establishments unnecessary. 

A party of native miners and smiths are still kept in the 
employment of the Government, who, working the rich, 
black, magnetic iron-ore, produce for the Government from 
180 to 500 bars of good malleable iron every month. They 
are supported by the appropriation of a few thousands of a 
amal^ fresh- water fish, called "Cacusu," a portion of the tax 



MASSANGANO. 2(il3 

lio7iQd upon the nshermen of the Coanza. This fish is so 
much relished in the country that those who do not wish 
to eat them can easily convert them into money Tho 
coinmandant of the district of Massangano, for ingtanco, 
has a right to a dish of three hundred every morning, as 
part of his salary. Shell-fish are also foui^a in the Coanza, 
and the " Peixemulher/' or woman-fish of the Portuguese, 
which is probably a Manatee. 

We found the town of Massangano on a tongue of rather 
high land formed by the left bank of the Lucalla and right 
tank of the Coanza, and received true Portuguese hospi- 
tality from Senhor Lubata. The town has more than a 
thousand inhabitants : the district has 28,063, with only 
815 slaves. 

Massangano district is well adapted for sugar and rice, 
while Cambambe is a very superior field for cotton ; but 
the bar at the mouth of the Coanza would prevent the ap- 
proach of a steamer into this desirable region, though a 
small one could ply on it with ease when once in. 

The latitude of the town and fort of Massangano is O** 
J'7' 46" S., being nearly the same as that of Cassange. The 
country between Loanda and this point being compara- 
tively flat, a railroad might be constructed at small ex. 
pense. The level country is prolonged along the north 
bank of the Coanza to the edge of the Cassange basin, and 
a railway carried thither would be convenient for the trans- 
port of the products of the rich districts of Cassange, 
Pungo Andongo, Ambaca, Cambambe, Golungo Alto, Ca- 
zongo, Muchima, and Calumbo, — in a word, the whole of 
Angola and independent tribes adjacent to this kingdom. 

Keturning by ascending the Lucalla into Cazengo, we 
bad an opportunity of visiting several flourishing coffee- 
plantations, and observed that several men, who had begun 
with no capital but honest industry, had in the course of 
a few years acquired a comfortable subsistence. One of 
these, Mr. Pinto, generously furnished me with a good 
auj^p^y of his excellent coff'ee, and my men with a breed 



'264 JEVER — INSANITY. 

of rabbits to cany to their own country. Their lands 
granted by Government, yielded, without much labor, cofFee 
uflicient for all the necessaries of life. 

On returning to Golungo Alto, I found several of my men 
laid up with fever. One of the reasons for my leaving 
ttism there was that they might recover from the fatigue 
of the journey from Loanda, which had much more effect 
upon their feet than hundreds of miles had on our way west- 
ward. They had always been accustomed to moisture in 
their own well-watered land, and we certainly had a super- 
abundance of that in Loanda. The roads, however, from 
Loanda to Golungo Alto were both hard and dry, and they 
Buffered severely in consequence ; yet they were composing 
songs to be sung when they should reach home. The 
Argonauts were nothing to them; and they remarked very 
impressively to me, ^'It was well you Came with Makololo; 
for no tribe could have done what we have accomplished 
in coming to the white man's country : we are the true 
ancients, who can tell wonderful things.'/ Two of them 
now had fever in the continued form, and became jaun- 
diced, the whites or conjunctival membrane of their eyes 
becoming as yellow as saffron ; and a third suffered from 
an attack of mania. He came to his companions one day, 
and said, " Eemain well. I am called away by the gods V 
and set off at the top of his speed. The young men caught 
him before he had gone a mile, and bound him. By gentle 
treatment and watching for a few days he recovered. I 
have observed several instances of this kind in the country, 
but very few cases of idiocy j and I believe tliat continued 
insanity is rare. 



DESERTED CONVENT. 26b 



CHAPTEE XXI. 

DR LIVINGSTONE VISITS PUNGO ANDON flO. 

While waiting for the recovery of my men, I visited, in 
company with my friend Mr. Canto, the deserted Convent 
of St. Hilarion, at Bango, a few miles northwest of Golungo 
Alto. It is situated in a magnificent valley, containing a 
population numbering 4000 hearths. This is the abode of 
the Sova, or Chief Bango, who still holds a place of autho- 
rity under the Portuguese. The garden of the convent, 
the church, and dormitories of the brethren are still kept 
in a good state of repair. I looked at the furniture, couches, 
and large chests for holding the provisions of the brother- 
hood with interest, and would fain have learned something 
of the former occupants; but all the books and sacred 
vessels had lately been removed to Loanda, and even the 
graves of the good men stand without any record : their 
resting-places are, however, carefully tended. All apeak 
well of the Jesuits and other missionaries, as the Capudiins, 
&c., for having attended diligently to the instruction of the 
children. They were supposed to have a tendency to take 
the part of the people against the Government, and wero 
supplanted by priests, concerning whom no regret is ex- 
pressed that they were allowed to die out. In viewing tho 
present fruits of former missions, it is impossible not to 
feel assured that, if the Jesuit teaching has been so por- 
manent, that of Protestants, who leave the Bible in the 
hands of their converts, will not be less abiding. 

The chief recreations of the natives of Angola are mnr 
nages and funerals. When a young woman is about to be 
married, she is placed in a hut alone and anointed with 
various unguents, and many incantations are employed in 
order to secure good fortune and fruitfulncss. Here, as almost 
evoi'y where in the south, iha height of good fortuiic- is to 

33 



266 MARuIACiES AND FUNERALS. 

bear sons. The}' often leave a husband altogether if they 
have daughters only. In their dances, when any one may 
wish to deride another, in the accompanying song a line is 
introduced, ^' So and so has no children, and never will get 
Any/' She feels the insult so keenly that it is not uncom- 
mon for her to rush away and commit suicide. After some 
days the bride elect is taken to another hut, and adorned 
uith all the richest clothing and ornaments that the rela- 
tives can either lend or borrow. She is then placed in a 
public situation, saluted as a lady, and presents made by 
all her acquaintances are placed around her. After this 
b\\q is taken to the residence of her husband, where she 
has a hut for herself, and becomes one of several wives, — foi 
polygamy is general. Dancing, feasting, and drinking on 
such occasions are prolonged for several days. In case of 
separation, the woman returns to her father's family, and 
the husband receives back what he gave for her. In nearly 
all cases a man gives a price for the wife, and in cases of 
mnlattoes as much as £60 is often given to the parents of 
the bride. This is one of the evils the bishop was trying 
to remedy. 

In cases of death the body is kept several days ; and there 
is a grand concourse of both sexes, with beating of drums, 
dances, and debaucher}^, kept up with feasting, &c., accord- 
ing to the means of the relative. The great ambition of 
many of the blacks of Angola is to give their friends an 
expensive funeral. Often, when one is asked to sell a pig. 
ive j-eplies, ''I am keeping it in case of the death of any of 
\Qy friends.'^ A pig is usually slaughtered and eaten on 
the last day of the ceremonies, and its head thrown into 
the nearest stream or river. A native will sometimes 
up] ear intoxicated on these occasions, and, if blamed for 
his intemperance, will reply, " Why, my mother is dead!" 
as if he thought it a sufficient justification. The expenses 
of funerals are so heavy that ofter years ela^ise before they 
ran defray them. 

'i'ho^e ])eo])iu are sai 1 to be veiy litigious and obstir.aio 



MISCONDUCT OF SLii VES. 267 

constant disputes are taking place respecting Their Jands 
A case came before tlie weekly court of the commandant 
involving property in a palm-tree worth twopence. The 
judge advised the pursuer to withdraw the case, as the 
meie expenses of entering it would be much more than the 
cost of the tree. " Oh, no," said he; ^' I have a piece of 
calico with me for the clerk, and money for yourself. It's 
my right : I will not forego it." The calico itself cost 
thide or four shillings. They rejoice if they can say of an 
enemy, '^ I took him before the court." 

My friend Mr, Canto, the commandant, being seized with 
fever in a severe form, it afforded me much pleasure to attend 
him in his sickness who had been so kind to me in mine 
JIc was for some time in a state of insensibility; and I, 
having the charge of his establishment, had thus an oppor- 
tunity of observing the workings of slavery. When a 
inaster is ill, the slaves run riot among the eatables. I did 
not know this until I observed that every time the sugar- 
basin came to the table it was empty. On visiting my 
patient bj^ night, 1 passed along a corridor, and uncxjDCCt- 
edly came upon the washerwoman eating pineapples and 
sugar. All the sweetmeats were devoured, and it was 
difficult for me to get even bread and butter until I took 
the precaution of locking the pantry-door. Probably thi 
slaves thought that, as both they and the luxuries were the 
master's property, there was no good reason why they 
should be kept apart. 

Debarred by my precaution from these sources of enjoy- 
ment, they took to killing the fowls and goats, and, when 
the animal was dead, brought it to me, saying, "Wo 
found this thmg lying out there." They tlien enjoyed a 
feast of flesh. A feeling of insecurity prevails throughox«t 
this co'intry. It is quite common to furnish visiters with 
the keys oi their rooms. When called on to come to break- 
fast or dinner, Bach locks his door and puts the key in his 
pocket. At Kolobeng we never locked our doors by night 
or by day for months together; but there ilavery is uiv- 



268 LOSS OF aOTTON-SEED. 

known 'rhc Portuguese do not seem iit all bigoted in 
their attachment to slavery, nor yet in their prejudices 
•against color. Mr. Canto gave an entertainment in order 
to draw all classes together and promote general good-will 
Q\vo sovas or native chiefs were present, and took their 
places without the least appearance of embarrassment. 
The Sova of Kilomho appeared in the dress of a general, 
and the Sova of Bango was gayly attired in a red coat 
profusely ornamented with tinsel. The latter had a band 
of musicians with him, consisting of six trumpeters and 
four drummers, who performed very well. These men are 
fond of titles, and the Portuguese Government humors 
them by conferring honorary captaincj", &c. : the Sova of 
Bango was at present anxious to obtain the title of '^ Major 
o£ all the Sovas." At the tables of other gentlemen I 
observed the same thing constantly occurring. At this meet- 
ing Mr. Canto communicated some ideas which I had written 
out on the dignity of labor and the superiority of free over 
slave labor. The Portuguese gentlemen present were anx- 
iously expecting an arrival of American cotton-seed from 
Mr. Gabriel. They are now in the transition-state from un- 
lawful to lawful trade, and turn eagerly to cotton, coffee, and 
sugar as new sources of wealth. Mr. Canto had been com- 
missioned by them to purchase three sugar-mills. Our 
cruisers have been the principal agents in compelling them 
to abandon the slave-trade ; and our Government, in furnish- 
ing them with a supply of cotton-seed, showed a generous 
intention to aid them in commencing a more honorable 
course. It can scarcely be believed, however, that after 
Lord Clarendon had been at the trouble of procuring fresh 
cotton-seed through our minister at Washington, and had 
sent it out to the care of H. M. Commissioner at Loanda, 
probably from having fallen into the hands of a few incorri- 
gible slave-traders, it never reached its destination. It was 
most likely cast into the sea of Ambriz, and my friends at 
Golungo Alto were left without the means of commencing a 
new enterprise. 



ECLIPSE OF THE SUN. 269 

. JVlr. Canto mentioned that there is now much more coir 
t*m in tiie country than can be consumed; and if he had 
possession of a few hundred pounds he would buy up all 
the oil and cottoL at a fair price, and thereby bring about 
a revolution in the agriculture of the country. These 
commodities are not produced in greater quantity, because 
the people have no market for those which now spring 
ap almost spontaneously around them. The above was 
put down in my journal when I had no idea that enlarged 
supplies of cotton from new sources were so much needed 
at home. 

It is common to cut down cotton-trees as a nuisance, 
and cultivate beans, potatoes, and manioc sufficient only 
for their own consumption. 1 have the impression that 
cotton, which is deciduous in America, is perennial here; 
for the plants I saw in winter were not dead, though going 
by the name Algodao Americana, or American cotton. The 
rents paid for gardens belonging to the old convents are 
merely nominal, varying from one shilling to three pounds 
per annum. The higher rents being realized from those 
in the immediate vicinity of Loanda, none but Portuguese 
or half-castes can pay them. 

When about to start, the horse which the governor had 
kindly presented for Sekeletu was seized with inflamma- 
tion, which delayed us some time longer; and we ultimately 
lost it. 

November 20. — An eclipse of the sun, which I had 
anxiously hoped to observe with a view of determining 
the longitude, happened this morning, and, as often took 
place in this cloudy climate, the sun was covered four 
minutes boioro it began. When it shone forth, the eclipse 
was in progress, and a few minutes before it should 
(according to my calculations) have ended the sun was 
again completely obscured. The greatest patience and 
perseverance are required if one wishes to ascertain hia 
position when it is the rainy season. 

Before leaving, I had an opportunity of observing a 

2a* 



270 INSECTS WHICH DISTIL WATER. 

carious insect, which inhabits trees of the fig farai)/^ 
^ Ftcus,) upward of twenty sp(X'ies of which arc found 
here. Seven or eight of them cluster round a spot on one 
of the smaller branches, and there keep up a constant di* 
tillation of a clear iiuid, which, diopping to the ground, 
forms a little puddle below. If a vessel is placed undei 
♦hem in the evening, it contains three or four pints of fluid 
in the morning. The natives say that if a drop falls into 
llie eyes it causes inflammation of these organs. To the 
question, whence is this fluid derived, the people reply that 
the insects suck it out of the tree; and our own natu- 
ralists give the same answer. I have never seen an orifice, 
and it is scarcely possible that the tree can yield so much. 
A similar but much smaller homopterous insect, of tho 
famihT- Cercopidce, is known in England as tho frog-hopper, 
{Aphrophora spumaiia,) when full grown and furnished 
with wings, but while still in the pupa state it is called 
" Cvckoo-spit," from the mass of fro.th in which it envelops 
itself The circulation of sap in plants in our climate, 
especially of the graminacea?, is not quick enough to yield 
much moisture. The African species is five or six times 
the size of the English. In the case of branches of the 
fig-tree, the point the insects congregate on is soon marked 
by a number of incipient roots, such as are thrown out 
when a cutting is inserted in the ground for the purpose 
of starting another tree. I believe that both the English 
and African insects belong to the same fiimily, and difl*er 
onlj^ in size, and that the chief part of the moisture ie 
derived from the atmosphere. I leave it for naturalists to 
explain how these little creatures distil both by night and 
day at much water as they please, and are moic indepen- 
dent than her majesty's steamships with their apparatus 
fcr condensing steam ; for, without coal, their abundant 
Bupplies of sea-water are of no avail. I tried the following 
experiment. Finding a colony of those insects busily dis- 
tilling on a branch of the Ricinus communis, or castor-oil 
plant, 1 denuded about twenty inches of the baik on the tree" 



EXrERIMENTS. 271 

Side of llio insects, and scraped away the inner bark, so afi 
to destroy all the ascending vessels. I also cut a hv>le in 
the side of the branchy reaching to the middle, and then 
cut out the pith and internal vessels. The distillation 
was then going on at the rate of one drop each sixty-seven 
seconds, or about 2 ounces 5? drachms in tAventy-foui 
hours. Next morning the distillation, so far from being 
aifected by the attempt to stop the supplies, supposing 
they had come up through the branch from the tree, was 
increased to a drop every live seconds, or twelve drops 
per minute, making one pint (16 ounces) in every twenty- 
four hours. 1 then cut the branch so much that, during 
the day, it broke ; but they still went on at the i-atc of a 
drop every five seconds, while another colony on a branch 
of the same tree gave a drop every seventeen seconds 
only, or at the rate of about 10 ounces 45 drachms in 
twenty-four hours. 1 finally cut off the branch ; but this 
was too much ior their patience, for they immediately 
decamped, as insects will do from either a dead branch or 
a dead animal, — which Indian hunters soon know when 
they sit down on a recently-killed bear. The presence of 
greater moisture in the air increased the power of these 
distillers : the period of greatest activity was in the morn- 
ing, Avhen the air and every thing else was charged with 
dew. 

Having but one day left for experiment, I found again 
that another colony on a branch denuded in the same way 
yielded a drop ever}'- two seconds, or 4 pints 10 ounces in 
twenty-four hours, while a colony on a branch untouched 
yielded a drop every eleven seconds, or 16 ounces 2^ J 
drachms in twenty-four hours. I regretted somewhat ih^i 
"Want of time to institute another experiment, namely, 
to cut a branch and place it in water, so as to keej) it in 
life, and then observe if there was any diminution (»f Iho 
quantity of water in the vessel. This alone was wanting 
to make it certain that they draw water from the atmo- 
splere. i imagine that they have some power of which w<; 



272 ARRIVAL AT AMBACA 

are not aware, besides that nervous influenco which causes 
constant motion to our own involuntary muscles, tiiS 
nowcr of life-Ion^ action without fatio-uc. The reader wiU 
remember, in connection with this insect, the case of the 
ants alread}'- mentioned. 

Decembir 14. — Both myself and men having reccverod 
from severe attacks of fever, we left the hospitable resi- 
dence of Mr. Canto with a deep sense of his kindness to 
us all, and proceeded on our way to Ambaca. (Lat. 9° 16' 
3V'S., long.l5°23'E.) 

Owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick, 
we were able to march but short distances. Three hours 
and a half brought us to the banks of the Caloi, a small 
stream which flows into the Senza. 

"We found, on reaching Ambaca, that the gallant old 
soldier, Laurence Jose Marquis, had, since our passing 
Icollo i Bengo, been promoted, on account of his stern 
integrity, to the government of this important district. 
The office of commandant is much coveted by the officers 
of the line who come to Angola, not so much for the salary 
as for the perquisites, which, when managed skilfully, in 
the course of a few years make one rich. 

Before leaving Ambaca we received a present of ten head 
of cattle from Mr. Schut of Loanda; and, as it shows the 
cheapness of provisions here, I may mention that the cost 
was only about a guinea per head. 

On crossing the Lucalla we made a detour to the south, 
in order to visit the famous rocks of Pungo Andongo. Ae 
soon as we crossed the rivulet Lotete, a change in the 
vegetation of the country was apparent. We found trees 
identical with those to be seen south of the Chobe. The 
grass, too, stands in tufts, and is of that kind which the 
natives consider to be best adapted for cattle. Two species 
of grape-bearing vines abound everj^where in this district, 
and the influence of the good pasturage is seen in the plump 
condition of the catt/e. In all my previous inquiries re- 
Bpecting the vege^nble products of Angola, J was invariably 



PUNGO ANDONGO 273 

diroctcJ to Pungo Andango. "Do you grow wheat?"-— 
" Oh, ye3, in Pungo Andongc ." " Grapes, figs, or peaches?" 
-—''Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo.'' ''Do you make butter, 
cheese, &c. ?'' The uniform answer was, "Oh, yes: there 
is abundance of all these in Pungo Andongo/' But when 
wo arrived here wo found that the answers all referred to 
tlio activity of one man. Colonel Manuel Antonio Pircs. 
The presence of the wild grape shows that vineyards might 
be cultivated with success; the wheat grows well without 
iirigation; and any one who tasted the butter and cheese 
at the table of Colonel Pires would prefer tliem to the 
st-ile produce of the Irish dairy in general use throughout 
that province. The cattle in this country are seldom 
milked, on account of the strong prejudice which the Por- 
tuguese entertain against the use of milk. They believe 
that it may be used with safety in the morning, but, if 
taken after mid-day, that it will cause fever. It seemed 
to me that there w^as not much reason for carefully avoid- 
ing a few drops in their coffee after having devoured ten 
times the amount in the shape of cheese at dinner. 

The fort of Pungo Andongo (lat. 9° 42' 14" S., long. 15^ 
30' E.) is situated in the midst of a group of curious 
columnar-shaped rocks, each of which is upward of three 
hundred feet in height. They are composed of conglome- 
rate, made up of a great variety of rounded pieces in a 
matrix of dark red sandstone. They rest on a thick stra- 
tum of this last rock, with very few of the pebbles in ita 
substance. On this a fossil palm has been found, and if of 
tne same aore as those on the eastern side of the continent 
on which similar palms now lie, there may be coal under, 
ncath this, as well as under that of Tete. The asserted 
existence of petroleum-springs at Dande, and near Cam- 
bumbe, would seem to indicate the presence of this useful 
mineral, though I am not aware of any one having actually 
Been a seam of coal tilted up to the surface in Angola, as 
we have Jit Toto. The gigantic pillars of Pungo Anaongo 
havQ been formed by b cui'rent of the sea coming from- the 



274 PUNGO ANDONGO 

S.S.E.; for, seen from the top, tliey appear arranged II thnl 
direction, and must have withstood the surges of the ocean 
at a period of our world's history when the relations of 
laud and sea were totally different from what they are now, 
and long before ''the morning stars sang together, and ail 
the sons of God shouted for joy to see the abodes prepared 
which man was soon to fill." The embedded pieces in 
the conglomerate are of gneiss, clay shale, mica and sand- 
stone schists, trap, and porphyry, most of which are large 
enough to give the whole the appearance of being the 
only remaining vestiges of vast primeval banks of shin- 
gle. Several little streams run among these rocks, and 
in the central part of the pillars stands the village, com 
pletely environed by wellnigh-inaccessible rocks. Thr. 
pathways into the village might be defended by a small 
body of troops against an army; and this place was long 
the stronghold of the tribe called Jinga, the original pos- 
sessors of the country. 

In former times the Poi'tuguese imagined that this pia«'*e 
was particularly unhealthy, and banishment to the black 
rocks of Pungo Andongo was thought by their judges to 
be a much severer sentence than transportation to any 
part of the coast; but this district is now well known to 
be the most healthy part of Angola. The water is remaik- 
ably pure, the soil is light, and the country open and undu- 
lating, with a general slope down toward the river Coanza, 
a few miles distant. That river is the bouthern boundary 
of the Portuguese, and beyond, to the S. and S.W., we see 
the high mountains of the Libollo. On the S.E. w^e have 
also a mountainous country, inhabited by the Kinibonda or 
\rabonda, who are said by Colonel Pi res to be a very brave 
and independent people, but hospitable and fair in theii 
dealings. They are rich in cattle, and their country ppD. 
duces much bees'-wax, which is carefully collected and 
brought to the Portuguese, w'th whom they have alwaye 
been on good terms. 

The Ako, (Hako,) a branch of this familj', inhabit the 



A MERCIlANT-rRINCE. 276 

left bank jf the Ooanza abore this vilhige, who, instead 
of bringing slaves for sale, as formerly, now occasion ally 
bring wax for the purchase of a slave from the Portiigucso. 
I saw a bo}' sold for twelve shillings : he said that he bo- 
ionged to the country of Matiamvo. Here 1 bought a pair 
af well-made boots^ of good tanned leather, which reached 
above the knee, foi- five shillings and cightpence, and that 
was just the price given for one pound of ivory by Mr. 
Pires : consequently, the boy was worth two pairs of boots, 
or two pounds of ivory. Tiie Libollo on the south have 
not so good a character; but the Coanza is always deep 
enough to form a line of defence. Colonel Pires is a good 
example of w^hat an honest, industrious man in this country 
may become. JLe came as a servant in a ship, and, by a 
long course of persevering labor, has raised himself to bo 
the richest merchant in Angola. He possesses some thou- 
sands of cattle, and, on any emergency, can appear in the 
field with several hundred armed slaves. 

While enjoying the hospitality of this merchant-prince 
in his commodious residence, w4iich is outside the rocks 
and commands a beautiful view of all the adjacent country, 
I learned that all my despatches, maps, and journal had 
gone to the bottom of the sea in the mail-packet "Fore- 
runner." 1 felt so glad that my friend Lieutenant Beding- 
feld, to whose care 1 had committed them, though in the 
most imminent danger, had not shared a similar fate, that 
I was at once reconciled to the labor of rewriting. 1 
Availed myself of the kindness of Colonel Pires, and re- 
mained till the end of the year reproducing my lo3t 
p{?pors. 

Colonel Pires having another establishment on the hanks 
of the Coanza, about six miles distant, I visited it with 
him about once a week for the purpose of recreation. The 
dilFerence of temperature caused by the lower altitude was 
Bcen in the cashew-trees; for while, near the rocks, th.cso 
trees were but coming into flower, those at the lower sta- 
tion were ripening their fruit Cocoanut-trees and bananas 



276 ANCIENT BULIAL-PLACE. 

bear well at the lower station, but yield little or no ft'uit 
at the upper. The difference indicated by the thermo- 
meter was 7°. The general range near the rocks Avas G7° 
at 7 A.M., 74° at mid-day, and 72° in the evening. 

A slave-boy belonging to Colonel Pircs, having stolen 
and eaten some lemons in the evening, went to the river 
to Avash his m.outh, so as not to be detected by the flavor. 
An alligator seized him and carried him to an island in the 
middle of the stream : there the boy grasped hold of the 
reeds, and baffled all the efforts of the reptile to dislodge 
him, till his companions, attracted by his cries, came to his 
assistance. The alligator at once let go his hold; for when 
out of his own element he is cowardly. The boy had many 
marks of the teeth in his abdomen and thigh, and those of 
the claws on his legs and arms. 

The slaves in Colonel Pircs' establishments appeared 
more like free servants than any I had elsewhere snen. 
Every thing was neat and clean, — while generally, v/bere 
slaves are the only domestics, there is an aspect of sloven- 
liness, as if they went on the principle of always doing aa 
little for their masters as possible. 

In the country near to this station were a largo number 
of the ancient burial-places of the Jinga. These are simply 
large mounds of stone, with drinking and cooking vessels 
of rude potter}^ on them. Some are arranged in a circular 
form, two or three yards in diameter, and shaped like a 
haycock. There is not a single vestige of any inscription. 
The natives of Angola generally have a strange predilec- 
tion for bringing their dead to the sides of the most fre- 
quonied paths. They nave a particular anxiety to secure 
the point where cross-roads meet On and around tbo 
^aves are planted tree-euphorbias and other species of 
that family. On the grave itself they also place Avater- 
bottles, broken pipes, cooking-vessels, and sometimes a 
little bow and arrow. 

The Portuguese Government, wishing to prevent thie 
cnstom affixed a penalty on any cmo burying in the roads, 



MANIOC XHE CHIEF PRODUCT. 277 

and apj)ointcd places of public sepulture in every district 
in the country. Tlic people persist, however, in spito of 
the most stringent enforcement of the law, to follow thsii 
ancient custom. 

TliG country between the Coanza and Pungo Andongo is 
covered Avith low trees, bushes, and fine pasturage. In the 
latter we were pleased to see our old acquaintances, tho 
gaudy gladiolus, Amaryllis toxicaria, hymanthus, and other 
bulbs, in as flourishing a condition as at the Capo. 

It is surprising that so little has been done in the way 
of agriculture in Angola. Eaising wheat by means of ir- 
rigation has never been tried; no plough is ever used; ami 
the only instrument is the native hoe, in the hands of 
slaves. The chief object of agriculture is the manioc, 
which does not contain nutriment sufficient to give proper 
stamina to tho people. The half-caste Portuguese havtJ 
not so much energy as their fathers. They subsist chiefly 
on the manioc; and, as that can be eaten either raw, 
roasted, or boiled, as it comes from the ground, or fer- 
mented in water, and then roasted or dried after fermenta- 
tion, and baked or pounded into fine meal, or rasped into 
meal and cooked as farina, or made into confectionary 
with butter and sugar, it does not so soon pall upon tho 
palate as one might imagine when told that it constitutes 
their principal food. The leaves boiled make an excellent 
vec:etable for tho table; and, when eaten by goats, their 
milk is much increased. Tho wood is a good fuel, and 
yields a largo quantity of potash. If planted in a dry 
soil, it takes two years to come to perfection, requiring 
during that time one weeding only. It bears drought 
well, and never shrivels up like other plants when do- 
pr:v.)d of rain. When planted in low, alluvial soils, and 
either well supplied Avith rain or annually flooded, twelve, 
or even ten, months aro sufficient to bring it to maturity 
The root rasped while raw, placed upon a cloth, and rubbed 
with tho hands while water is poured upon it, parts Avith 

Its starchy glutinous matter, and this, when it settles at 

u 



278 VISIT FROM A COLORED PRIEST. 

the bottom of the vessel and the water poured off, m 
plated in the sun till nearly dry, to form tapioca. The 
process of drying is completed on an iron plate over a slow 
tire, the mass being stirred meanwhile with a stick, and 
when quite dry it appears agglutinated into little globules, 
and is in the form we see the lapioca of commerce. This 
i.8 never eaten by w^eevils, and so little labor is required in 
Its cultivation that on the spot it is extremely cheap. 
Throughout the interior parts of Angola, fine manioc-meal, 
which could with ease have been converted either into supe- 
rior starch or tapioca, is commonly sold at the rate of about 
ten pounds for a penny. All this region, however, has no 
means of transport to Loanda other than the shoulders of 
the carriers and slaves over a footpath. 

Cambambe, to which the navigation of the Coanza 
reaches, is reported to be thirty leagues below Pungo 
Andongo. A large waterfall is the limit on that side; and 
another exists higher up, at the confluence of the Lombe, 
(lat. 9° 41' 26" S. and about long. 16° E.,) over which hi23- 
popotami and elephants are sometimes drawn and killed. 
The river between is rapid, and generally rushes over a 
rocky bottom. Its source is point^.d out as S.E. or S.S.E. 
of its confluence with the Lombe, and near Bihe. The situa- 
tion of Bihe is not well known. When at Sanza, we were 
assured that it lies nearly south of that point, and eight 
days distant. This statement seemed to be corroborated 
by our meeting many people going to Matiamvo and to 
Loanda from Bihe. Both parties had come to Sanza, and 
then branched ofi", one to the east, the other to the west. 
The source of the Coanza is thus probably not far from 
Sanza. 

I had the happiness of doing a little good in the way of 
administering to the sick ; for there are no doctors in the 
interior of Angola. Notwithstanding the general healttTi- 
ness of this fine district and its pleasant temperature, I was 
attacked by the fever myself. While confined to my room, 
a gentleman of color, a canon of the Church, kindly paid 



THE KING OP CONGO. 279 

me a visit. He was on a tour of visitation in the different 
interior districts for the purpose of baptizing and marrying 
lie had lately been on a visit to Lisbon in compan}'' with 
the Prince of Congo, and had been invested with an ordei 
of honor by the King of Portugal as an acknowledgment 
of his services. He had all the appearance of a true negro, 
but commanded the respect of the people ; and Colonel P., 
who had known him for thirty years, pronounced him to be a 
good man. There are only three or four priests in Loanda, 
— all men of color, but educated for the office About the 
time of my journey in Angola^ an offer was made to any 
young men of ability who might wish to devote themselves 
to the service of the Church to afford them the requisite 
education at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. I 
was iufotmed, on what seemed good authority, that the 
Prince of Congo is professedly a Christian, and that there 
are no fewer than twelve churches in that kingdom, the 
fruits of the mission established in former times at San 
Salvador, the capital. These churches are kept in partial 
repair by the people, who also keep up the ceremonies of 
the Church, pronouncing some gibberish over the dead in 
imitation of the Latin prayers which they had formerly 
heard. Many of them can read and write. When a king 
of Congo dies, the body is wrapped up in a great many 
folds of cloth until a priest can come from Loanda to con- 
secrate his successor. The King of Congo still retains the 
title of Lord of Angola, which he had when the Jinga; the 
original possessors of the soil, owed him allegiance; and, 
when he writes to the Governor of Angola, he places hi* 
own name first, as if addressing his vassal. The Jinga 
paid him tribute annually in cowries, which were found on 
the island that shelters Loanda Harbor, and, on refusing to 
continue payment, the King of Congo gave over the island 
to the Portuguese, and thus their dominion commenced iii 
this quarter. 

There is not much knowledge of the Christian religion 
in either Congo or Angola : yet it is looked upon with a 



280 DEPARTURE FROM PUNGO ANDONGO. 

certiin degree of favor. The prevalence of fever is pro- 
bal)ly the reason why no priest occupies a post in an}^ part 
of the interior. They come on tours of visitation like that 
mentioned, and it is said that no expense is incurred, for 
all the people are ready not only to pay for their services, 
b J t also to furnish every article in their power gratuitously. 
!n view of the desolate condition of this fine mission ary- 
ileld, it is more than probable that the presence of a few 
Protestants would soon provoke the priests, if not to love, 
to good works. 



CHAPTEK XXll. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE REACnES THE LOAJIMA RIVER. 

January 1, 1855. — Having, through the kindness of 
Colonel Pires, reproduced some of my lost papers, I left 
Pungo Andongo the first day of this year, and at Can- 
dumba slept in one of the dairy-establishments of my 
friend, v/ho had sent forward orders for an ample supply 
of butter, cheese, and milk. Our path lay along the right 
bank of the Coanza. This is composed of the same sand- 
stone rock, with pebbles, which forms the flooring of the 
country. The land is level, has much open forest, and is 
well adapted for pasturage. 

On reaching the confluence of the Lombe, we left tho 
river, and proceeded in a northeasterly direction, through 
a fine open green country, to the village af Malange, whcro 
we struck into our former path. A few miles to the west 
of this a path branches off* to a new district named the 
"i)uke Braganza. This path crosses the Lucalla and several 
of Us feeders. The whole of the country drained by these 
ifl described as extremely fertile. The territory west of 
Braganza is reported to be mountainous, well wooded aud 
watered; wild €05*00 is abundant, and the people even 



MEETING WITH NATIA E TRADERS. 28. 

Make their huts of coffee-trees. The rivers Dando, Sensa, 
and Lucalla are said to rise in one mountain-rango 
JSJamerous tribes inhabit the country to the north, who are 
all independent. The Portuguese power extends chiefly 
over the tribes through whoso lands we have massed U 
may be said to be firmly seated only between the rivers 
Dando and Coanza. It extends inland about three hun- 
dred miles to the river Quango; and the ])oj)ulation, 
Recording to the imperfect data afforded by the census 
given annually by the commandants of the fifteen or six- 
teen districts into wdiich it is divided, cannot be under 
600,000 souls. 

Leaving Malange, we passed quickly, without deviation, 
along the path by w^hich we had come. At Sanza (lat. 9° 
37' 46" S., long. 16° 59' E.) we expected to get a little seed- 
wheat, but this was not now to be found in Angola. 

While at Tala Mungongo, \ve met a native of Bihe who 
nas visited the country of Shinte three times for the pur- 
poses of trade. He gave us some of the news of that dis- 
tant part, but not a word of the Makololo, who have always 
been represented in the countries to the north as a despe- 
rately-savage race, whom no trader could visit with safety. 
The half-caste traders whom we met at Shinte's had re- 
turned to Angola with sixty-six slaves and upward of fiftj' 
tusks of ivory. As we came along the path, we daily met 
long lines of carriers bearing largo square masses of bees'- 
wax, each about a hundred pounds' weight, and numbers 
of elephants' tusks, the property of Angoleso merchants. 
Many natives were ])roceeding to the coast also on their 
own account, carrying bees'- wax, ivory, and sweet oil. 
They appeared to travel in perfect security; and at differ- 
ent parts of the road avo purchased fowls from them at a 
penny each. My men took care to celeorato their own 
daring in having actually entered ships, while the natives 
of these parts, who had endeavored to frighten them on 
their way down, had only seen them at a distance. Poor 
follows! they were more than ever attentive to me; and 

2-k* 



282 CASSANGE VILLAGE. 

fls tliey were not obliged to erect sheds for themselves, In 
confecqucnce of finding them already built at the different 
eleeping-places, all their care was bestowed in making me 
ccmfortablc. Mashauana, as usual, made his bed with his 
head close to my feet, and never during the entire journey 
did I have to call him twice for any thing I needed. 

Jxinuary 15, 1855. — We descended in one hour from Iho 
heights of Tala Mungongo. I counted the number of paces 
made on the slope downward, and found them to be sixteen 
hundred, which may give a perpendicular height of from 
twelve to fifteen hundred feet. 

Before we reached Cassange we were overtaken by the 
commandant, Senhor Carvalho, who was returning, with a 
detachment of fifty men and a field-piece, from an unsuc 
cessful search after some rebels. The rebels had fled, and 
all he could do was to burn their huts. He kindly invited 
me to take up my residence with him; but, not wishing to 
pass by the gentleman (Captain Neves) who had so kindly 
received me on my first arrival in the Portuguese pos- 
sessions, I declined. Senhor Eego had been superseded in 
his command, because the Governor Amaral, who had come 
into office since my departure from Loanda, had determined 
that the law which requires the office of commandant to bo 
exclusively occupied by military officers of the line should 
once more come into operation. I was again most kindly 
welcomed by my friend Captain Neves, whom I found 
laboring under a violent inflammation and abscess of the 
hand. There is nothing in the situation of this village to 
indicate unhealthiness, except, perhaps, the rank luxu 
r;ance of the vegetation. Nearly all the Portuguese in- 
habitants suffer from enlargement of the spleen, the effects 
of frcQucnt intermittents, and nave generally a sickly ap- 
pearance. Thinking that th^s affection of the hand was 
simply an effort of nature to get rid of malarious mattei 
from the sj^stem, I recommended the use of quinine, lie 
himself a})plied the leaf of a plant called cathory, famed 
tmong the natives as an excellent remedy foi ulcers. The 



THE ORDEAL 2S3 

calhory -leaves, when boiled, exude a gummy juic3, wLicb 
effectually shuts out the external air. Each remedy, of 
course, claimed the merit of the cure. 

Many of the children are cut off by fever. A line boy 
of Captain .Neves' had, since my passage "westward, shared 
a similar fate. Another child died during the period of 
my visit. 

The intercourse which the natives have had with white 
men does not seem to have much ameliorated their con- 
dition. A great number of persons are reported to lose 
their lives annually in different districts of Angola by tho 
cruel superstitions to which they are addicted, and the 
Portuguese authorities either know nothing of them or are 
unable to prevent their occurrence. The natives are bound 
to secrecy by those who administer the ordeal, which gene- 
rally causes the death of the victim. A person, when ac- 
cused of witchcraft, will often travel from distant districty 
in order to assert her innocency and brave the test. They 
come to a river on the Cassange called Dua, drink tho 
infusion of a poisonous tree, and perish unknown. 

The same superstitious ideas being prevalent through 
the whole of the country north of the Zambesi seems to 
indicate that the people must originally have been one. 
All believe that the souls of the departed still mingle 
among the living and partake in some way of the food 
they consume. 

The chieftainship is elective from certain families. Among 
the Bangalas of the Cassange valley the chief is chosen 
from three families in rotation. A chief's brother inherita 
in preference to his son. The sons of a sister belong to her 
brother; and he often sells his nephews to pay his debts. 
By this and other unnatural customs, more than by war, is 
the slave-market supplied. 

While here, I reproduced the last ot my lost papers and 
maps; and, as tnere is a post twice a month from Loandii, 
I had the happiness to receive a packet of the '^TimeSy*' 
4nd, among other news, an account of the Russian war up 



2S4 TRADING POMBEIROS. 

t/> tne leiTible charge of the light cavalry. The intense 
aiixicij I felt to hear more may be imagined by evcrj 
true patriot; but I was forced to brood on in silent 
thought, and utter my poor prayers for friends who per- 
chance were now no more, until 1 reached the other side 
of the continent. 

A considerable trade is carried on by the Cassango mer- 
chants with all the surrounding territory by means of 
native traders, whom they term "pombeiros." Two of 
these, called in the history of Angola " the trading blacks,'' 
(os feirantes pretos,) Pedro Joao Ba2:)tista and Antonio 
Jose, having been sent by the first Portuguese trader that 
lived at Cassange, actually returned from some of the Por- 
tuguese possessions in the East with letters from the 
governor of Mozambique in the year 1815, proving, as ia 
remarked, ^Hhe possibility of so important a communica- 
tion between Mozambique and Loanda.*' This is the only 
instance of native Portuguese subjects crossing the conti- 
nent. No European ever accomplished it, though this 
fact has lately been quoted as if the men had been 
^^ Portuguese.'^ 

Captain Neves was now actively engaged in preparing 
a pi'csent, worth about fifty pounds, to be sent by pom- 
belvos to Matiamvo. It consisted of great quantities of 
cofton cloth, a largo carpet, an arm-chair with a canopy 
ii-*id curtains of crimson calico, an iron bedstead, mosquito- 
curtains, beads, &c., and a number of pictures rudely 
painted in oil by an embryo black painter at Cassange. 

Matiamvo, like most of the natives in the interior of tho 
country, has a strong desire to possess a cannon, and had 
gent ten large tusks to purchase one; but, being Govern- 
ment property, it could not be sold : he Avas now furnished 
^itb a blunderbuss mounted as a cannon, which would 
proDably please him as well. 

Senhor Gra^a and some other Portuguese have visited 
this chief at different times: but no European resides 
teyond the Quango: indeed; it \s contrary to tho policy of 



A LARGE TUSK. 285 

tlic Government of Angola to alloAV tlicir subjects to peno- 
trato farther into the interior. The present would have 
boon a good oj^portunity for me to have visited tliat chief, 
and 1 felt strongl}^ inclined to do so, as he had expressed 
dissatisfaction respecting my treatment by tho Chiboquo^ 
and even threatened to punish them. As it would be im- 
proper to force my men to go thither, [ resolved to wait 
and see whether the proposition might not emanate from 
themselves. When I can get the natives to agree in tho 
propriety of any step, they go to the end of the affair 
without a murmur. I speak to them and treat them aa 
rational beings, and generally get on well with them in 
consequence. 

February 20. — On the day of starting from Cassange the 
westerlj' wind blew strongly, and on the day following we 
were brought to a stand b}^ several of our party being laid 
up with fever. This complaint is the only serious draw- 
back Angola possesses. It is in every other respect an 
agreeable land, and admirably adapted for yielding a rich 
abundance of tropical produce for tho rest of the world. 
Indeed, I have no hesitation in asserting that, had it been 
in tho possession of England, it would now have been 
yielding as much or more of tho raw material for her 
manufactures as an equaJ extent of territory in the cotton- 
growing States of America. A railway from Loanda to 
this valley would secure tho trade of most of the interior 
of South Central Africa. 

As soon as we could move toward the Quango we did so, 
meeting in our course several trading-parties, both native 
and Portuguese. We met two of tho latter carrying a 
tusk weighing 12G lbs. The owner afterward informed us 
that its fellow on the left side of the same elephant was 130 
lbs. It was 8 feet 6J inches long, and 21 inches in cirr.um- 
fcrcncc at the part on which the lip of the animal rests. 
Tne elephant was rather a small one, as is common in this 
ho^i central region. Some idea may be formed of tho 
strength of his neck when it is recollected that he bore a 



286 RENEWED ATTACK OF FEA'flB. 

weight of 256 lbs The ivory which comes from the eaet 
and northeast of Cassange is veiy much Larger than any 
to be found farther south. Captain Keves had one weigh 
ing 120 lbs.; and this weight is by no means uncommor 
They have been found weighing even 158 lbs. 

Before reaching the Quango we were again brought to 
a stand, by fever in two of my companions, close to tha 
residence of a Portuguese who rejoiced in the name o/ 
William Tell and who lived here in spite of the prohibition 
of the Government. We were using the water of a pond j 
and this gentleman, having come to invite me to dinnc"^ 
drank a little of it, and caught fever in consequence, li 
malarious matter existed in water, it would have been a 
wonder had we escaped; for, travelling in the sun, w. ph 
the thermometer from 96° to 98° in the shade, the evapora- 
tion from our bodies causing much thirst, we general I}' 
partook of every water we came to. We had probably 
thus more disease than others might suffer who had better 
shelter. 

Mr. Tell remarked that his garden was rather bar«*en, 
being still, as he said, wild ; but when more worked it 
would become better, though no manure be applied. My 
men were busy collecting a better breed of fowls and 
pigeons than those in their own country, Mr. Tell pre- 
sented them with some large specimens from Eio Jai.eiro. 
Of these they were wonderfully proud, and bore the cock 
in triumph through the country of the Balonda, as evidence 
Di having; been to the sea. But when at the viKaire of 
Shiiite a hj'ena came into our midst when we were al] 
sound asleep, and picked out the giant in his basket from 
eighty -four others, and he was lost, to the great grief of 
my men. The anxiety these people have always ^hoAvn to 
improve the breed of their domestic animals is, ) think^a 
favorable ])oint in their character. 

(;n coming back to Cypriano's village on the 28tli. wa 
found his step-father had died after we had passed, and, 
ftocoiding to the custom of the country, he lad speni morn 



SUPERSTITIOUS FEAK8. 2i57 

itidu his patrimony in funeral orgies. He acted with his 
wonted kindness, though, unfortunately, drinking has got 
Kim so deeply in debt that he now keeps out of the way of 
his creditors. He informed us that the source of tho 
Quar.go is eight days, or one hundred miles, to tho south 
of this, and in a range called Mosamba, in the country of 
tho Basongo. We can see from this a sort of break in the 
high land which stretches away round to Tala Mongongo, 
through which the river comes. 

A death had occurred in a village about a mile off, and 
tne people were busy beating drums and firing guns. The 
funeral rites are half festive, half mourning, partaking 
somewhat of the character of an Irish wake. There is 
nothing more heart-rending than their death-wails. When 
the natives turn their eyes to the future world, they have 
a view cheerless enough of their own utter helplessness 
and hopelessness. They fancy themselves completely in 
the power of the disembodied spirits, and look upon the 
prospect of following them as the greatest of misfortunes. 
Hence they are constantly deprecating the wrath of de- 
parted souls, believing that, if they are appeased, there is 
no other cause of death but witchcraft, which may be 
averted by charms. 

We were informed that a chief named Gando, living on 
the other side of the river, having been accused of witch- 
craft, was killed by the ordeal, and his body thrown into 
the Quango. 

The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico, but 
received six thankfully. The canoes were wretched, carry, 
ing only two persons at a time; but, my men being well 
acquainted with the water, we all got over in about "wo 
oours and a half They excited the admiration of the 
mhabitiints by the manner in which they managed tho 
cattle and donkeys in crossing. 

On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without 
visiting our friend of the conical head-dress, to the resi* 
dence of scrae Ambakistas who had crossed the river in 



288 AMBAKISTAS — BASniNJE. 

ordor tc secure the first chances of trade in wax. I h:ive 
oefore remarked on the knowledge of readin<jc and writintj 
that these Ambakistas possess; they are fanu-.l for their 
love of all sorts of learning witliin their reach, a knowledge 
oi the history of Portugal, Portuguese law, &c. &c. They 
are remarkably keen in trade, and are sometimes called 
the Jews of Angola. They are emploj-ed as clerks and 
writers, their feminine aelicacy of constitution enabling 
them to write a fine lady's hand, a kind of writing much 
esteemed among the Portuguese. They are not physically 
equal to the European Portuguese, but possess considerable 
ability; and it is said that half castes, in the course of a 
few generations, return to the black color of the maternal 
ancestor. 

The Bashinje, in whose country we now are, seem to 
possess more of the low negro character and physiognomy 
than either the Balonda or Basongo; their color is generally 
d?rty black, foreheads low and compressed, noses flat and 
much expanded laterally, though this is partly owing to 
the ala) spreading over the cheeks, by the custom of insert* 
ing bits of sticks or reeds in the septum ; their teeth are 
deformed by being filed to po.nts; their lips are large. 
They make a nearer approach to a general negro appear- 
ance than any tribes 1 met; but I did not notice this on 
m}' way down. They cultivate pretty largely, and rely upon 
their agricultural products for their supplies of salt, flesh, 
tobacco, &c. from Bangalas. Their clothing consists of 
pieces of skin hung lousely from the girdle in front and 
behind They plait their hair fantastically. AVe saw some 
women coming with their hair woven into the form cf a 
European hat, and it was only by a closer inspection that 
its nature was detected. Others had it arranged in tufts, 
with a threefold cord along the edgo of each tuft; while 
others, again, follow the ancient Egyptian fashion, having 
the whole mass of wool plaited into cords, all hanging 
down as far as the shoulders. This mode, with the some* 
what Egyptian cast of countenance in other parts of Londii, 



SANS awe's idea OP DIGNITY 289 

remuided me strongly of the paintings of that nation in 
tho British Mascum. 

We had now rain every day, and the sky seldom pro- 
rented that cloudless aspect and clear blue so common in 
the dry lands of the south. The heavens are often over- 
cast bj" largo white motionless masses, which stand for 
hours in the same position; and the intervening spaces are 
Gllod with a milk-and-water-looking haze. !Notwithstand- 
ing these unfavorable circumstances, I obtained good oo- 
servations for the longitude of this important point on both 
Bides of the Quango, and found the river running in 9° 50' S. 
lat., 18°33'E. long. 

On proceeding to our former station near Sansawe'a 
village, ho ran to meet us with wonderful urbanity, asking 
if we had seen Moene Put, king of the white men, (or Por- 
tuguese,) and added, on parting, that he would come to 
receive his dues in the evening. I replied that, as he had 
treated us so scurvily, even forbidding his people to sell us 
any food, if he did not bring us a fowl and some eggs a.« 
part of his duty as a chief, he should receive no present 
from me. When he came, it was in the usual Londa way 
of showing the exalted position he occupies, mounted on 
the shoulders of his spokesman, as schoolboys sometimes 
do in England, and as was represented to have been the 
case in the southern islands when Captain Cook visited 
them. My companions, amused at his idea of dignity, 
greeted him with a hearty laugh. He visited the native 
traders first, and then came to me with two cocks as a 
present. I spoke to him about the impolicy of treatment 
we had received at his hands, and quoted the example of 
the llangalas, who had been conquered by the Portuguese 
for their extortionate demands of payment for firewood, 
grass, w^ater, &c., and concluded by denying his right to 
any payment for simply passing through uncultivated land. 
To all this he agreed; and then I gave him, as a token of 
friendship, a pannikin of coarse powder, two iron spoons, 
and two yards of coarse printed calico Ho looked rathos 



2?90 MORE FEVER 

saucily at thcee articles, for he had just received a barioT 
containing eighteen pounds of powder, twenty-four yards 
of calico, and two bottles of brandy, from Senhor Pascoal 
the pombeiro. Other presents were added the next day, 
but we gave nothing more; and the pombeiros informed 
me that it was necessary to give largely, because they are 
accompanied by slaves and carriers who are no great 
friends to their masters; and, if they did not secure the 
friendship of these petty chiefs, many slaves and their loads 
might be stolen while passing through the forests. It is 
thus a sort of black-mail that these insignificant chiefs 
levy; and the native traders, in paying, do so simply as a 
bribe to keep them honest. This chief was a man of no 
power, but in our former ignorance of this he plagued us a 
whole day in passing. 

Finding the progress of Senhor Pascoal and the other 
pombeiros excessively slow, 1 resolved to forego his com- 
pany to Cabango after I had delivered to him some letters 
to be sent back to Cassange. i went forward with the 
intention of finishing my writing and leaving a packet for 
him at some village. We ascended the eastern acclivity 
that bounds the Cassange valley, which has rather a 
gradual ascent up from the Quango, and we found that 
the last ascent, though apparently not quite so high as 
that at Tala Mungongo, is actually much higher. The top 
IS about 5000 feet above the level of i^e sea, and the 
bottom 3500 feet ; water boiling on the heights at 202°, the 
thermometer in the air showing 96°, and at the bottom at 
iJ05°, the air being 75°. We had now gained the summit 
of the western subtending ridge, and began to descend 
toward the centre of the country, hoping soon to get out 
of the Chiboque territory, which, when we ascended from 
the Cassange valley, we had entered ; but, on the 19th of 
April, the intermittent, which had begun on the 16th of 
March, was changed into an extremely severe attack of 
rheumatic fever. This was bix)ught on by being obliged 
to sleep on an extensive plain covered with water The 



A BLOW ON THE CEARO 291 

raiPx poured down incessantly; but we formed our beds by 
dragging uj) the earth into oblong mounds, somewhat like 
graves in a country churchyard, and then placing grass 
upon them. The rain continuing to deluge us, we were 
unable to leave for two daj's; but as soon as it became fai? 
we continued our march. The heavy dew npon the high 
gra3s was so cold as to cause shivering, and I was forced 
to lie by for eight days, tossing and groaning with violent 
pain in the head. This was the most severe attack 1 liad 
endured. It made me quite unfit to move, or even know 
what was passing outside ni}^ .ittle tent. Senhor Pascoal, 
who had been detained by the severe rain at a better spot, 
at last came up, and, knowing that leeches abounded in 
the rivulets, procured a number, and applied some dozens 
to the nape of the neck and the loins. This partially 
relieved the pain. He was then obliged to move forward, 
in order to purchase food for his large party. After many 
days, I began to recover, and wished to move on, but my 
men objected to the attempt on account of my w^eakness. 
When Senhor Pascoal had been some time at the villaaie in 
front, as he had received instructions from his employer, 
Captain Neves, to aid me as much as possible, and being 
himself a kindly-disposed person, he sent back two mes- 
sengers to invite me to come on, if practicable. 

It happened that the head-man of the village where ] 
had lain twenty-two dnjs, while bargaining and quarrelling 
in my cam]3 for a piece of meat, had been struck on tho 
n^outh by one of my men. My principal men paid five 
pieces of cloth and a gun as an atonement; but the more 
they yielded the more exorbitant he became, and he sent 
word to all the surrounding villages to aid him in avenging 
the affront of a blow on the beard. As their courage 
awually rises with success, I resolved to yield no more, and 
departed In passing through a forest in the country 
beyond, wo w^ero startied by a bod}' of men rushing after 
us. They began by knocking down the burdens of the 
hindermost of my men, and several shots were fired, e&ch 



202 SKIRMISH IN A FOREST. 

Iiarty spreading out on both sides of the pulh. 1 fortn- 
r.arely had a six-baiTclled revolver, ^vhich my frienii 
('a])tain llcnry Need, of her majestj-'s brig "Linnet," had 
considerately sent to Golungo Alto after my departure 
from Loanda. Taking this in my hand, and forgetting 
fever, I staggered quickly^ along the path with two or three 
of mj'- men, and fortunately encountered the chief Tho 
sight of the six barrels gaping into his stomach, with my 
O'.vn ghastly visage looking daggers at his fixce, seemeu to 
produce an instant revolution in his martial feelings, for 
he cried out, '*0h, I have only come to speak to you, and 
wish peace only." Mashauana had hold of him by the 
hand, and found him shaking. AVc examined his gun, and 
found that it had been discharged. Both parties cro\>ded 
up to their chiefs. One of the opposite party^ coming too 
near, one of mine drove him back with a battle-axe. Tho 
enemy protested their amicable intentions, and mj'' men 
asserted the fact of having the goods knocked down aa 
cviden'.'C of the contrary. AYithout waiting long, I re- 
quested all to sit down ; and Pitsane, placing his hand upon 
the revolver, somewhat allayed their fears. I then said to 
the chief, " If you have come with peaceable intentions, 
we have no other: go awa}' home to your village.'' lie 
replied, '^ I am afraid lest you shoot mc in the back." 1 
rejoined, ^' If I wanted to kill you, I could shoot you in 
the face as well." Mosantu called out to me, " That's 
onl}' a Makalaka trick : don't give him your back." But 
I said, " Tell him to observe that I am not afraid of him," 
and, turning, mounted my ox. There was not much dangoi 
in the fire that was opened at first, there being so mary 
trees. The enemy probably expected that the sudden 
attack would make us forsake our goods and allow them 
to jiliinder with ease. The villagers were no doubt 
plcRsed with being allowed to retire unscathed, and ^j^q 
were also glad to got away vcithout having shed a drop of 
blood or having compromised ourselves for any future visit. 
My men were delighted with their own bravery, and made 



RATE OP TRAVEb. 293 

tho woods ring with telling each other Low 't brilliant their 
conduct before the enemy" would have been, had hosti- 
lities not been brought to a sudden close. 

I do not mention this little skirmish as a very frightful 
affair. The negro character in these parts, and in A ngola, 
is essentially cowardly, except when influenced by success. 
A partial triumph over any body of men would induce the 
whole country to rise in arms; and this is the chief danger 
to be feared. These petty chiefs have individually but 
little power, and with my men, now armed with guns, I 
could have easily beaten them off singly; but, being of 
the same family, they would readily unite in vast numbers 
if incited by prospects of successful plunder. They are by 
no means equal to the Cape Caffres in any respect what- 
ever. 

In the evening we came to Mocna Kikanje, and found 
him a sensible man. He is the last of the Chiboquc chiefs 
in this direction, and is in alliance with Matiamvo, whose 
territory commences a short distance beyond. His village 
18 placed on the east bank of the Quilo, which is here 
twenty yards wide and breast deep. 

The country was gcnerallj> covered with forest, and we 
slept every night at some village. I was so weak, and had 
become so deaf from the effects of the fever, that I was 
glad to avail myself of the company of Senhor Pascoal and 
the other native traders. Our rate of travelling was only 
two geographical miles per hour, and the average number of 
hours three and a half per da}'', or seven miles. Two-thirds 
of the month was spent in stoppages, there being only ten 
travelling-days in each month. The stoppages were caused 
by sickness, and the necessity of remaining in different 
puUs to purchase food; and also because when one carrier 
was sick the rest refused to carry his load. 

Wo crossed the Loango, a deep but narrow stream, by a 
bridge. It becomes much larger, and contains hippopo- 
tami, lower down It is the boundary of Londa on the west. 
We Blopt also on the banks of the Pcj'o, now flooded, anti 

36* 



294 FEEDEKS OF THE CONGO. 

could not but admire their capabilities for easy irrigation. 
On reaching the river Chikapa, (lat. 10° 10' S., long. 19° 42' 
E.,) the 25th of March, we found it lift} or sixty yards wide, 
and flowing E.N.E. into the Kasai. The adjacent country is 
of the same level nature as that part of Londa formerly 
described ; but, having come farther to the eastward than 
our previous course, we found that all the rivers had worn 
for themselves much deeper valleys than at the points we had 
formerly crossed them. 

Surrounded on all sides by large gloomy forests, the 
people of these parts have a much more indistinct idea of 
the geography of their country than those who live in hilly 
regions. It was only after long and patient inquiry that I 
became fully persuaded that the Quito runs into the Chi- 
kapa. As we now crossed them both considerably farther 
down, and were greatly to the eastward of our first route, 
there can be no doubt that these rivers take the same 
course as the others, into the Kasai, and that I had been 
led into a mistake in saying that any of them flowed to 
the westward. Indeed, it was only at this time that I 
began to perceive that all the western feeders of the Kasai, 
except the Quango, flow first from the western side toward 
the centre of the country, then gradually turn, with the 
Kasai itself, to the north, and, after the confluence of the 
Kasai with the Quango, an immense body of water, col- 
lected from all these branches, finds its way out of the 
country by means of the river Congo or Zaire, on the west 
coast. 

The people living along the path we are now following 
were quite accustomed to the visits of native traders, and 
did not feel in any way bound to make presents of food 
except for the purpose of cheating : thus, a man gave me 
a fowl and some meal, and after a short time returned. 
I offered him a handsome present of beads ; but these he 
declined, and demanded a cloth instead, which was far 
more than the value of his gift. They did the same with 
my men, until we had to refuse presents altogether. Others 



CROSSING THE LOA.TIMA. 



295 



made high demands because I slept in a '* house of cloth" 
and must be rich. They seemed to think that they had a 
perfect right to payment for simply passing through the 
C(mntry. 

Beyond the Chikapa we crossed the Kamaue, a small^ 
deep stream proceeding from the S.S.W. and flowing into 
the Chikapa. 

On the 30th of April we reached the Loajma, where we 
had to form a bridge to effect our passage. This was not 
Ko difiScult an operation as some might imag ne; for a tree 




* LONOA LADY'S MODE OF WEARING HER HAIR. 



was growing in a Ijoiizontal position across part of the 
stream, and, there being no want of the tough climlina 
plants which admit of being knitted like ropes, Senhor P. 
soon constructed a bridge. The Loajima was here about 
twenty-five yards wide, but very much deeper than where 
1 Ixad crossed before on the shoulders of Mashanana. The 



296 



MODES OP DRESSING THE HAIB. 



last rain of this season liad fallen on the 28lli, and had 
suddenly been followed by a great decrease of the tempera- 
ture. The people in these parts seemed more slender in 
form, and their color a lighter olive, than any we had 
hitherto met. The mode of dressing the great masses of 
woolly hair which lay upon their shoulders, together with 
their general features, again reminded me of the ancient 
Egyptians. Several were seen with the upward inclination 
of the outer angles of the eye; but this was not general 




LADY'S HEAD-DRESS OF WOVEN HAIR. 



A few of the ladies adopt a curious custom of attaching 
the hair to a hoop which encircles the head, giving it some- 
what the appearance of the glory round the head of the 
Virgin, as shown on p. 295. Some have a small hoop behind 
that represented in the wood-cut. Others wear an ornoi^ 
ment of woven hair and hide adorned with beads. The 
hair of the tails of buffaloes, which are to be found farther 



1 



HEAD-DRESSES. 



297 



oast, IS sometimes added; while others weave their owd 
hair on p'eces of hide into the form of buffalo-herns, oi 
make a single horn in front. Many tattoo their bodlci by 
inserting some black substance beneath the skin, which 
leaves an elevated cicatrix about half an inch long : these 
sua Tuade in the foim of stars and other figures of no par- 
tic o^ar beauty. 




LADY'S HEAD-DRESS IN SHAPE OF BUFFAL0-H0RN8» 



'98 OABANQO 



CHAPTEE XXIII. 

Oa LIVINGSTONE VISITS THE COUNTRY OF THE BALONEY. 

We made a little detour to the southward, in order to 
get provisions in a cheaper market. This led us along the 
rivulet called Tamba, where we found the people, who had 
Dot been visited so frequently by the slave-traders as the 
»*est, rather timid and very civil. 

We reached the river Moamba (lat. 9° 38' S., long. 20° 
13' 34" E.) on the 7th May. This is a stream of thirty 
yards wide, and, like the Quilo, Loange, Chikapa, and 
Loajima, contains both alligators and hippopotami. We 
crossed it by means of canoes. 

We crossed two small streams, the Kanesi and Fombeji, 
before reaching Cabango, a village situated on the banks 
of the Chihombo. The country was becoming more 
densely peopled as we proceeded, but it bears no popula- 
tion compared to what it might easily sustain. 

Cabango (lat. 9° 31' S., long. 20° 31' or 32' E.) is the 
dwelling-place of Muanzanza, one of Matiamvo's subor- 
dinate chiefs. His village consists of about two hundred 
huts and ten or twelve square houses, constructed of 
poles with gi'ass interwoven. The latter are occu])ied 
by half-caste Portuguese from Ambaca, agents for tho 
Cassangp. traders. The cold in the mornings was now 
feovere to the foehngs, the thermometer ranging from 58° 
to 60°, though, when protected, sometimes standing ae 
high as 64° at six a.m. When the sun is well up, the 
thermometer in the shade rises to 80°, and in the even 
ings it is about 78°. 

Having met with an accident to one of my eyes by a 
blow from a branch in passing through a forest, I remained 
Home days here, endeavoring, though Avith much pain, to 
draw a sketch of the countr}' thus far, to be sent back to 



DEPARTURE fROxM CABANGO. 299 

Mr. Giibriel at Loanda. I was always anxious to transmit 
an account of my discoveries on every possible occasion, 
lest, any thing happening in the country to which 1 was 
going, they should be entirely lost. I also fondly expected 
a packet of letters and papers which my good angel aS 
Loanda would be sure to send if they came to hand; but i 
afterward found that, though he had offered a large sura 
to any one who would return with an assuran'ie of having 
delivered the last packet he sent, no one followed me with 
it to Cabango. The unwearied attentions of this good 
Englishman, from his first welcome to me, Avhen. a weary, 
dejected, and worn-down stranger, I arrived at his resi- 
dence, and his whole subsequent conduct, will be held in 
lively remembrance by m.e to my dj'ing day 

As we thought it best to strike away to the S.E. from 
Cabango to our old friend Katema, I asked a guide from 
Muanzanza. He agreed to furnish one, and also acccptet! 
a smaller present from me than usual, when it was re 
presented to him by Pascoal and Faria that 1 was not a 
trader. 

We were forced to prepay our guide and his father too, 
and he went but one day, although he promised to go with 
us to Katema. 

■ The reason why we needed a guide at all was to secure 
the convenience of a path, which, though generally no 
better than a sheep-walk, is much easier than going 
straight in one direction through tangled forests and 
tropical vegetation. We knew the general direction wo 
ought to follow, and also if any deviation occurred from 
our proper route ) but, to avoid impassable forests anil 
untreadablo bogs, and to get to the proper fords of tho 
rivers, we always tried to procure a guide, and he alvvay? 
followed the common path from one village to another 
when that lay in the direction we were going. 

After leaving Cabango, on the 2lst, we crossed 8e\unil 
little streams running into the Chihombo on our left. 

On the 28th wc reached the village of the chief Bangfj, 



2500 INTERVIEW WITH KAWAWA. 

(lat. W 22' 53" S., long. 20° 58' E.,) who brought us a 
hand30mo picsent of meal and the meat of an cntiid 
pallah. ^Vo here slaughtered the last of the cows jiie- 
seiited to us by Mr. Schut, which I had kept milked unlil 
it gave onl}- a teaspoonful at a time. My men enjo^'cd a 
iioitrty laugh when they found that I had given up all nopo 
of more, for they had been talking among themselves about 
my perseverance. 

May 30. — Wo left Bango, and proceeded to the river 
Loembwe, which flows to the N.N.E. and abounds in 
hippopotami. It is about sixty j^ards wide and four feet 
deep, but usually contains much less ^vater than this, for 
there are fishing-weirs placed right across it. Like all the 
African rivers in this quarter, it has morasses on each 
bank; yet the valley in w^hich it wnnds, when seen from 
the high lands above, is extremely beautiful. 

Having passed the Loembwe, Ave were in a more open 
country, with ever}^ few hours a small valley, through 
which ran a little rill in the middle of a bog. These w^eve 
always difficult to pass, and, being numerous, kept the 
lower part of the person constantly wet. 

On the evening of the 2d of June wo reached the village 
of Kawawa, — rather an important personage in these parts. 
Yhis village consists of forty or fifty huts, and is surrounded 
by forest. Drums were beating over the body of a man 
who had died the preceding day, and some women were 
making a clamorous wail at the door of his hut, and 
addressing the deceased as if alive. 

In the morning w^e bad agreeable intercourse with Ka- 
wawa: he visited us, and wo sat and talked nearly the 
whole day with him and his people. When wo visited 
him in return, we found him in his large court-house, 
which, though of a bee-hive shape, was remarkably weU 
built. As 1 had shown him a number of curiosities, bo 
now produced a jug, of English ware, shaped like an oid 
man holding a can of beer in .his hand, as the greatest 
curiosity he had to exhibit 



trijcute demanded. 301 

Wc exhibilea the pictures of the mapjic lantern in tb^ 
Bvcriing, and all were delighted except Kawawa himself. 
Ec showed symptoms of dread, and sev.-i ..I timer started 
lip as if to run away, out was prevented by the crowd 
behind. Some of the more intelligent understood the ex- 
planations well, and expatiated eloquently on them to tho 
more obtuse. Nothing could exceed the civilities which 
had passed between us during this day ; but Kawawa had 
beard that the Chiboque had forced us to pay an ox, and 
now thought he might do the same. When, therefore, I 
Bent next morning to let him know that we were ready tc 
Btart, he replied, in his figurative way, ''If an ox come ii: 
the way of a man, ought he not to' eat it ? I had given 
one to the Chiboque, and must give him the same, together 
with a gun, gunpowder, and a black robe, like that he had 
seen spread out to dry the day before; that, if I refused an 
ox, I must give one of my men, and a book by which ho 
might see the state of Matiamvo's heart toward him, and 
which would forewarn him should Matiamvo ever resolve 
i;o cut off his head.'' Kawawa came in the coolest manner 
possible to our encampment after sending this message, 
and told me ho had seen all our goods and must have all 
he asked, as he had command of the Kasai in our front, 
and would prevent us from passing it unless we paid this 
tribute. I replied that the goods were my property and 
not his; that 1 would never have it said that a white man 
had paid tribute to a black, and that I should cross the 
Kasai in spite of him. lie ordered his people to arm ibem- 
selves, and Avhen some of my men saw them rushing for 
Iheir bows, arrows, and spears, they became somewhat 
panic-stricken. I ordered them to move away, and not to 
fire unless Kawawa's people struck the first blow. I took 
the lead, and expected them all to follow, as they usually 
i«ad done; but man}^ of my men remained behind. AVheii 
1 knew this, 1 j inn pod off the ox and made a rush to ihem 
with tlie revolver in my hand. Kawawa ran away anion^ 

his people, and they turned their backs too. 1 shouted to 

26 



302 DNPLEASANT PARTING. 

my men to take up their luggage and march : some did a-^ 
with alacrity, feeling that they had disoheycd orders by 
remaining; but one of them refused, and was preparing tc 
Cto at Kawuwa, until I gave him a punch on the head 
with the pistol and made him go too. I felt here, as else 
where, that subordination must be maintained at all risks 
We all moved into the forest, the people of Kaw^awa stand 
mg about a hiindrod yards off, gazing, but not firing a shot 
or an arrow. It is extremely unpleasant to part with these 
chieftains thus, after spending a day or two in the mc st 
amicable intercourse, and in a part where the people are 
generally civil. This Kav/awa, however, is not a good 
specimen Of the Balonda chiefs, and is rather notorious in 
the neighborhood for his folly. Wo were told that he has 
good reason to believe that Matiamvo will some day cut 
off his head for his disregard of the rights of strangers. 

Kawawa was not to be balked of his supposed rights by 
the unceremonious w^ay in which we had left him; for, 
when we had reached the ford of the Kasai, about ten 
miles distant, we found that he had sent four of his men 
with orders to the ferrymen to refuse us passage. We 
were here duly informed that wo must deliver up all the 
articles mentioned, and or.o of our men besides. This de- 
mand for one of our number always nettled every heart 
The canoes were taken away before our eyes, and we were 
supposed to be quite lielpless witnout them, at a river a 
good hundred yards broad, and very deep. Pitsane stood 
on the bank, gazing with apparent indifference on the 
stream, and made an accurate observation of where the 
canoes were hidden among the reed?*. The feri*ymen 
casually asked one of my Batoka if they had rivers in his 
country, and he answered, with truth, ''No; w^e have 
none." Kawawa's people then felt sure we could not cross. 
1 thought of swimming when they were gone; but, after 
it was dark, by the unasked loan of one of the hidden 
canoes, we soon were snug in our bivouac on the southern 
bank of the Kasai. 1 left some beads as payment for some 



LEVE.. PLAINS. 803 

meal which had been presented by the fcnyraen ; and. the 
canoe having been left on their own side of the river, 
Pitsane and his compa^iions laughed uproariously at the 
disgust our enemies would feel, and their perplexity as 
to who had been our paddler across They were quite 
sure thatKawawa would imagine that we had been ferried 
over b}'' his own people and would be divining to find out 
who hai done the deed. When leady to depart in the 
morning, Kawawa's people appeared on the opposite 
heights, and could scarcely believe their ej^es when they 
saw us prepared to start away to the south. At last one 
of them called out, ''Ah! ye are bad;" to which Pitsano 
and his companions retorted, "Ah I ye are good, and we 
thank you for the loan of your canoe." We were careful 
to explain the whole of the circumstances to Katema and 
the other chiefs, and they all agreed that we were per- 
fectly justifiable under the circumstances, and that Ma- 
tiamvo would approve our conduct. When any thing that 
might bear an unfavorable construction happens among 
themselves, they send explanations to each other. The 
mere fact of doing so prevents them from losing theii 
character, for there is public opinion even among them. 



CHAPTER X.XTV. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE RETURNS TO THE COUNTRY OF TUB 

MAKOLOLO. 

After leaving the Kasai, we entered upon the extersive 
level plains which we nad formerly found in a flooded con- 
dition. The water on them was not yet dried up, as it 
Blill remained in certain hollow spots. Vultures w^ere seen 
floating in the air, showing that carrion was to be ibnrd; 
and, indeed, we saw several of the large game, but "^c 
exceedingly wild as to be unapproachable. 



301 LAKE DILOLO. 

During our second dtij on this extensive pia5n 1 suffered 
from ni}^ twcnty-t^cventli attack of fever, at a part where 
no surface-water was to bo found. We never thought it 
necessary to can-} water with us in this region ; and now, 
when I was quite mable to move on, m}^ men soon found 
water to alhiy my burning thirst by digging with sticks a 
few feel beneath the surface. We had thus an opportunity 
of observing the state of these remarkable plains at differ- 
ent seasons of the j'car. Next day we pursued our way, 
and on the 8th of Jane we forded the Lotembwa to the 
N.W. of Dilolo, and regained our former path. 

After crossing the Northern Lotcmbwa, we met a party 
of the people of Kangenke, avIio had treated us kindly on 
our way to the north, and sent him a robe of striped calico^ 
with an explanation of the reason for not returning through 
his village. We then went on to the Lake Dilolo. It is a 
fine sheet of water, six or eight miles long and one or tvro 
broad, and somewhat of a triangular shape. A branch 
proceeds from one of the angles and flows into the Southern 
Lotcmbwa. 

We found Moenc Dilolo (Lord of the Lake) a fat, jolly 
fellow, who lamented that when the}' had no strangers 
they had plenty of beer, and al\va3'S none when they came. 
He gave us a handsome present of meal and putrid buffalo's 
flesh. Meat cannot be too far gone for them, as it is used 
only in small quantities, as a sauce to their tasteless manioc 

June 14. — We reached the collection of straggling vil- 
lages over which Krtema rules, and were thankful to sea 
old familiar faces again. Shakatwala pei^formed the part 
of a chief by bringing forth abundant supplies of food in 
nis master's name. lie informed us that Katema, too, wa8 
out hunting skins for Matiamvo. 

On the 15th Katema came home from his hunting, having 
hoard of our arrival. He desired mo to rest mvself and 
eat abundantly, for, being a great man, I must fcol tired, 
and took good care to give the means of doing so. AH the 
people in these parts are exceedingly kind and liberal witb 



WELCOME FROM SHINTE. 805 

their food, and Katema was not behindhand. When he 
vidited our encampment, I presented him with a cloak of 
red baize, ornamented with gold tinsel, which cost thirty 
shillings, according to the promise I had made in going to 
Londa ; also a cotton robe, both large and small beads, an 
iron spoon, and a tin pannikin containing a quarter of a 
pound of powder. He seemed greatly pleased with the 
liberality shown, and assured me that the way was mine, 
and that no one should molest me in it if he could help it. 

Leaving Katema's town on the 19th, and proceeding 
four miles to the eastward, we forded the southern branch 
of Lake Dilolo. We found it a mile and a quarter broad; 
and, as it flows into the Lotcmbwa, the lake would seem 
to be a drain of the surrounding flats, and to partake of 
the character of a fountain. The ford was waist dccj), and 
very diflicult, from the masses of arum and rushes through 
which we waded. Going to the eastward about three 
miles, we came to the Southern Lotembwa itself, running 
in a valley two miles broad. It is here eighty or ninety 
yards wide, and contains numerous islands covered with 
dense sylvan vegetation. 

We traversed the extended plain on the north bank of 
the Lecba, and crossed this river a little farther on at Kan- 
yonkc's village, which is about twenty miles west of the 
Peri Hills, our former ford. The first stage beyond the 
Leeba Avas at the rivulet Loamba, by the village of Cho- 
bende, nephew of Shinte; and next day wo met Chebende 
himself returning from the funeral of Samoana, his father. 
Ho was thin and haggard-looking compared to what he 
had been before, — the probable efl'ect of the orgies in which 
ho had been engaged. 

Wo reached our friend Shinte, and received a hearty 
■w oleoma from this friendly old man, and abundant pro- 
visions of the beet ho had. On hearing a report of the 
journey given by my companions, and receiving a piece 
of cotton cloth about two yards square, he said, ''These 
Mvimbari cheat us by bringing little piece.! only; but the 

U 26* 



iJ06 VISIT TO NYAMOANA. 

next time you pass I shall send raen with you ij trade foi 
me jn Loanda.'' "VYhen I explained the use made of the 
slaves he sold, and that he was just destroying his own 
tribe by selling his people, and enlarging that of the Manv 
bari for the sake of these small pieces of cloth, it seemed tc 
him quite a new idea. 

We parted on the best possible terms with our friend 
Shinte, and proceeded by our former path to the village of 
his sister iN^yamoana, who is now a widow. She received U9 
with much apparent feeling, and said, "We had removed 
fVom our former abode to the place where you found us, 
and had no idea then that it was the spot where my hus- 
band was to die." She had come to the river Lofuje, as 
they never remain in a place where death has once visited 
them. We received the loan of five small canoes from her, 
and also one of those we had left here before, to proceed 
down the Leeba. 

Having despatched a message to our old friend Manenko, 
we waited a day opposite her village, which was about 
fifteen miles from the river. Her husband was instantly 
despatched to meet us with liberal presents of food, she 
being unable to travel in consequence of a burn on the 
foot. Sambanza gave us a detailed account of the political 
affairs of the country, and of Kolimbota's evil doings. 

A short distance below the confluence of the Leeba and 
Leeambye we met a number of hunters belonging to the 
tribe called Mambowe, who live under Masiko. They had 
dried flesh of hippopotami, bufl^aloes, and alligators. This 
party had been sent by Masiko to the Makololo for aid to 
repel their enemy, but, afraid to go thither, had spent the 
time in hunting. They have a dread of the Makololo, and 
hence the joy they expressed when peace was proclaimed.* 

* The Masiko were terrible warriors, but the atrocities committed by 
them in war will hardly bear comparison with those committed eyen in 
time of peace by the Zulus (Zooloos) under Chaka. Here is a specimen 
given by Captain Harris: — ** Umnante, the queen-mother, died, and 
©very subject in tbo realm was expected to proceed, according to eet» 



CRUELTY OP THE ZULUS. 807 

The Mambowe hunters were much alarmed until ray name 
was mentioned. They then joined our party, and on the 
following day discovered a hippopotamus dead, which they 
had prenously wounded. This was the first feast of flesh 
my men had enjoyed, for, though the game was wondor- 
fully abundant, I had quite got out of the way of shooting, 
arid missed perpetually. Once 1 went with the determina- 
tion of getting so close that I should not miss a zebra. 
We went along one of the branches tha+^tretch out from the 
river in a small canoe, and two men,^ ^oping down as low 
as they could, paddled it slowly along to an open space near 
to a heixl of zebras and pokus. Peering over the edge of 
the canoe, the open space seemed like a patch of wet ground, 
such as is often seen on the banks of a river, made smooth 
as the resting-place of alligators. When we came v/ithin 
a few yards of it, we found by the precipitate plunging of 
the reptile that this was a large alligator itself. Although 
I had been most careful to approach near enough, I unfor- 
tunately only broke the hind-leg of a zebra. My two men 
pursued it, but the loss of a hind-leg does not prevent this 
animal from a gallop. As I walked slowly after the men 
on an extensive plain covered with a great crop of grass. 



blished custom, to the king's residence, there to mourn for the illustrious 
•deceased. Umnante had been repudiated by EssenEinconyarna, and had 
afterward been guilty of signal infidelity to the nation by cohabiting with 
a, commoner of her father's tribe. Wkether in consequence of this lapse, 
or from some other circumstance, the usual etiquette was somewhat laxly 
observed, and there ensued an appalling tragedy, which had never been 
exceeded, either in brutality or foulness, by any of the black and inhci- 
man exploits detailed in the long and bioody catalogu-e of Chaka's crimes. 
Upon the grounds that 'some of the subjects must have been accessary 
by witchcraft to the death of the queen-mother, and did not therefore 
attend to mourn,' several kraals and villages were fired: men, women, 
and -children, having first been cruelly tortured, were roasted alive in the 
flames by the feroci'ous agents of a still more fiendish master; this act 
of unprecedented barbarity being followed up by a general massacre 
throughout the realm, — the tide of blood flowing for a whole fortnight, 
•and reeking of cruelties too revolting to narrate." — UdU 



Bt)8 CHARGE OF A BUFFALO. 

which was laid by its own weight, I observed that a soli- 
tary buffalo, disturbed by others of my own party, wap 
coming to me at a gallop. 1 glanced around, but the only 
tree on the plain was a hundred yards off, and there wag 
no escape elsewhere. I therefore cocked my ri5e, with 
the intention of giving him a steady shot in the forehead 
when he should come within three or four yards of me. The 
thought flashed across my mind, "What if your gun misses 
fire V^ I placed it to my shoulder as he came on at full 
speed, and that is tremendous, though generally he is a 
tumbering-looking animal in his paces. A small bush and 
bunch of grass fifteen yards off made him swerve a little, 
and exposed his shoulder. I just heard the ball crack 
there as I fell flat on my face. The pain must have made 
fiiim renounce his purpose, for he bounded close past me on 
CO the water, where he was found dead. In expressing my 
thankfulness to God among my men, they were much 
offended with themselves for not being present to shield 
me from this danger. The tree near me was a camel-thorn, 
and reminded me that we had come back to the land of 
thorns again, for the country we had left is one of ever- 
greens. 

July 27. — We reached the town of Libonta, and were 
received with demonstrations of joy such as I had never 
witnessed before. The women came forth to meet us, 
makiug their curious dancing gestures and loud luUiloos. 
Some carried a mat and stick, in imitation of a spear and 
shield. Others rushed forward and kissed the hands and 
cheeks of the different persons of their acquaintaDce among 
as, raising such a dust that it was quite a relief to get to 
the men assembled and sitting with proper African decorum 
in the kotla. We were looked upon as men risen from the 
dead, for the most skilful of their diviners had pronounced 
as to have perished long ago. After many expressions of 
joy at meeting, I arose, and, thanking them, explamed the 
imuses of our long delay, but left the report to be made by 
their owe cour.trymon Formerly I had been the chief 



RECEPTION AT LIBONTA. 309 

q^eaker, iiow I would leave the task of speaking to them. 
Pitsane then delivered a speech of upward of an hour Id 
length, giving a highly-flattering picture of the whole jour- 
noy, of the kindness of the white naen in general, and of 
Mr. Gabriel in particular. He concluded by saying that I 
had done more for them than they expected ; that I had not 
only opened up a path for them to the other white men, 
Imt conciliated all the chiefs along the route. The oldest 
man present rose and answered this speech, and, among 
other things, alluded to the disgust I felt at the Makololo 
for engaging in marauding-expeditions against Lechulatebe 
and Sebolamakwaia, of which we had heard from the first 
persons we met, and which my companions most energeti- 
cally denounced as " mashue hela," entirely bad. He en- 
treated me not to lose heart, but to reprove Sekelctu as my 
child. Another old man followed with the same entreaties. 
The following day we observed as our thanksgiving to 
God for his goodness in bringing us all back in safety to 
our friends. My men decked themselves out in their best, 
ard I found that, although their goods were finished, they 
had managed to save suits of European clothing, which, 
being white, with their red caps, gave them rather a dash- 
mg appearance. They tried to walk like the soldiers they 
had seen in Loanda, and called themselves my "braves," 
(batlabani.) During the service they all sat with their 
guns over their shoulders, and excited the unbounded admi- 
ration of the women and children. I addressed them ali 
on tho goodness of God m preserving us from all th<5 
dangers of strange tribes and disease. We had a similar 
Rervice in the afternoon. The men gave us two fine ox^eij 
for slaughter, and the w^oraen supplied us abundantly with 
milk, meal, and butter. It was all quite gratuitous, and I felt 
lAshamed that I could m^ke no return. My men explained 
the total expenditure of our means, and the Libontesc 
answered, gracefully, ^' It does not matter : you have opened 
a path for uo, and we shall have sleep." Strangers camfl 



310 KINDNESS 0¥ THE PEOPLE. 

Hocking from a distance, and seldom empty-handed. Theif 
presents I <listributed among my men. 

Our progress down the Barotse valley was just like this. 
Every village gave us an ox, and sometimes two. Ibo 
peoplo were wonderfully kind. I felt, and still feel, moFt 
deeply grateful, and tried to benefit them in the only way 
I could, by imparting the knowledge of that Savior who 
can comfort and su2>ply them in the time of need; and my 
prayer is that he may send his good Spirit to instruct them 
and lead them into his kinejdom. Even now I earnestlv 
long to return and make some recompense to them foy 
their kindness. In passing them on our way to the north, 
their liberality might have been supposed to be infiuonccd 
by the hope of repayment on our return, for the white 
man's land is imagined to be the source of overj ornament 
they prize most. But, though we set out from Loanda 
with a considerable quantity of goods, hoi)ing both to pay 
our way through the stingy Chiboquc and to make presents 
to the kind Baloixda and still more generous Makololo, the 
many delays caurfed by sickness made us expend all my 
slock, and all the goods my men procured by their own 
labor at Loanda, and we returned to the Makololo as poor 
Rft when we set out. Yet no distrust was shown, and my 
poverty did not lessen my influence. They saw that 1 had 
been exerting myself for their benefit alone, and even my 
men remarked, "Though wc return as poor as wo went, 
we have not gone in vain.'' They began immediately to 
coliect tusks of hippopotami and other ivory for a second 
jormey 



COLONY OF BIBDS 311 



CHAPTER XXY. 

D»- XOri'lNGSTONE PREPARES FOR HIS JOURNEY TO THB BAST 

COAST. 

On the Slst of July we parted with our kind Libontu 
fiiends. We planted some of our palm-tree seeds in differ- 
ent villages of this valley. They began to sprout even 
while we were there j but, unfortunately, they were always 
destroyed by the mice w^hich swarm in every hut. 

At Chitlane's village we collected the j'oung of a colony 
of the linkololo (Anastomus lainalllgerv.s,') a black, long- 
legged bird, somewhat larger than a crow, which lives on 
shell-fish (Ampullaria) and breeds in society at certain 
localities among the reeds. These places are well known, 
as they continue there from year to year, and belong to the 
chiefs, who at particular times of the year gather most 
of the young. The produce of this '4iarvest,'* as they 
call it, which was presented to me, was a hundred and 
seventy-five unfledged birds. They had been rather lato 
in collecting them, in consequence of waiting for the 
arrival of Mpololo, who acts the part of chief^ but gave 
them to me, knowing that tliis would be pleasing to him. 
otherwise this colony would have yielded double the 
amount. The old ones appear along the Leeambye in vast 
flocks, and look lean and scraggy. The young are very 
fat, and, when roasted, are esteemed one of the dainties of 
the Barotso valley. In presents of this kind, as well as of 
oxen, it is a sort of feast of joy, the person to whom they 
are presented having the honor of distributing the mate- 
rials of the feast. We generally slaughtered every ox at 
the village where it was presented, and then our friend* 
and we rejoiced together. 

The village ol Chitlane is situated, like all others in the 
Barotse valley, on an eminence, over which floods do not 



iil2 CHITLANE 6 VILLAGE. 

^rise; but this last year the water approached nearer to an 
entire submergence of the whole valley than has been 
known in the memory of man. Great numbers of people 
were now suffering from sickness, which always prevails 
when the waters are drying up, and 1 found much demand 
for the medicines I had brought from Loanda. The great 
variation of the temperature each day must have a trying 
eflfcct upon the health. At this village there is a real Indian 
banian-tree, which has spread itself over a considerable 
space by means of roots from its branches; it has been 
termed, in consequence, 'Hhe tree with legs," (more oa 
maotu.) It is curious that trees of this family are looked 
upon with veneration, and all the way from the Barotse to 
Loanda are thought to be preservatives from evil. 

On reaching Naliele on the 1st of August we found 
Mpololo in great affliction on account of the death of hia 
daughter and her child. She had been lately confined; 
and her father naturally remembered her when an ox was 
slaughtered, or when the tribute of other food, which he 
receives in lieu of Sckeletu, came in his way, and sent fre- 
quent presents to her. This moved the envy of one of 
the Makololo who hated Mpololo, and, wishing to vex him, 
he entered the daughter's hut by night, and strangled both 
her and her child. He then tried to make fire in the hut 
and burn it, so that the murder might not be known ; but 
the squeaking noise of rubbing the sticks awakened a ser- 
vant, and the murderer was detected. Both he and hia 
wife were thrown into the river, — the latter havini* ^'knowa 
of her husband's intentions, and not revealing them" 
Bhe declared she had dissuaded him from the crin^tC, and, 
had any one interposed a word, she m'ght have becu 
spared. 

Mpololo exerted himself in every way to supply us with 
other canoes, and we left Shinte's with him. The Mam- 
bowe were well received, and departed with friendly mes- 
Bages to their chief Masiko. My men were exceedingly 
delighted with the c">rdial reception we met with eveiy 



f 



MESSAGE FROM MASIKO. 313 

Where; but a source of annoyance was founJ wncro it was 
DOt expected. Many of their wives had married other 
men during our two years^ absence. 3tashauana's wife, 
who had borne him two children, was among the number, 
[le wished to appear not to feel it much, saying, " Why, 
wives are as plentiful as grass, and I can get another : she 
may go-/* but he would add, "If I had that fellow, I 
would open his ears for him." As most of them had more 
wives than one, I tried to console them by saying that 
they had still more than I had, and that they had enough 
yet ; but they felt the reflection to be galling that, while 
they were toiling, another had been devouring their corn. 
Some of their wives came with very young infants in thoii 
arms. This excited no discontent; and for some I had to 
speak to the chief to order the men, who had married the 
only wives some of my companions ever had, to restore 
them. 

Sunday, August 5. — A large audience listened most atteu- 
tively to my morning address. Surely some will remember 
the ideas conveyed, and pray to our merciful Father, who 
would never have thought of him but for this visit. The 
invariably kind and respectful treatment I have received 
from these and many other heathen tribes in this central 
country, together with the attentive observations of many 
years, have led me to the belief that, if one exerts him- 
self f.r their good, he will never be ill treated. There 
may be opposition to his doctrine, but none to the man 
himself. 

While still at Naliele, a party which had been sent aftoi 
me by Masiko arrived. He was much disappointed becaivSe 
I had not visited him. They brought an elephant's tusk, 
two calabashes of honey, two baskets of maize, and one 
of groundnuts, as a present. Masiko wished to say that 
he had followed the injunction which I had given as the 
will of God, and lived in peace until his brother Lintboa 
came, captured his women as they went to their gardens, 
and then appeared before his stockade. Masiko offered 1^ 

27 



314 FREEDOM OF SPEECH. 

lead his men out; but they objected, saying, "Let uft 
ecrvnnts be killed: you must not be slain." Those who 
said this were young Barotse who had been drilled to 
fighting by Sebituane, and used shields of ox-hide. They 
beat off the party of Limboa, ten being wounded and ton 
slain in the engagement. Limboa subsequently sent three 
slaves as a self-imposed fine to Masiko for attacking him. 
I succeeded in getting the Makololo to treat the messengers 
of Masiko well, though, as they regarded them as rebels, 
it was somewhat against the grain at first to speak civilly 
to them. 

MpololO; attempting to justify an opj^osite line of con- 
duct, told me how they had fled from Sebituane, even 
though he had given them numbers of cattle after their 
subjection by his arms, and was rather surprised to find that 
[ was disposed to think more highly of them for having 
asserted their independence, even at the loss of milk. For 
this food all who have been accustomed to it from infancy 
in Africa have an excessive longing. I pointed out how 
they might be mutually beneficial to each other by the 
exchange of canoes and cattle. 

There are some very old Barotse living here, who were 
the companions of the old chief Santuru. These men, 
protected by their age, were very free in their comments 
on the " upstart" Makololo. One of them, for instance, 
interrupted my conversation one day with some Makololo 
cfAntlemen with the advice ^^not to believe them, for they 
were only a set of thieves;" and it was taken in quite a 
good-natured way. It is remarkable that none of the 
ancients here had any tradition of an earthquake having 
occurred in this region. Their quick perception of events 
recognizable by the senses, and retentiveness of memory, 
render it probable that no perceptible movement of the 
eaith has taken place between 7° and 27° S. in the centre 
of the continent during the last two centuries at least. 
There is no appearance of recent fracture or disturbance 
of rocks to be seen in the central country, except the fallf 



i 



GONYE — END 01 WINTER. Sl7 

ol Gonye; nor is there any evidence or tradition of hur- 
rl flnes. 

I left [N'aliele on tlie 13th of August, and; when procecd- 
fnj along the shore at mid-day, a hij)popotamus struck the 
canoe with her forehead, lifting one-half of it quite out of 
the water, so as nearly to overturn it. Tho force of the 
butt she gave tilted Mashauana out into the river; tho i est 
of us sprang to the shore, which was only about ten yards 
off. Glancing back, I saw her come to the surface a short 
way off and look to the canoe, as if to see if she had 
done much mischief. It was a female, whose young one 
had been speared the day before. No damage was done, 
except wetting person and goods. This is so unusual an 
occurrence, when the precaution is taken to coast along 
the shore, that my men exclaimed, " Is the beast mad ?" 
There were eight of us in the canoe at the time, and the 
shake it received shows the immense power of this animal 
in the water. 

August 22. — This is the end of winter. The trees which 
line the banks begin to bud and blossom, and there is some 
show of the influence of the new sap, which will soon end 
in buds that push off the old foliage by assuming a very 
bright orange color. This orange is so bright that I mis- 
took it for masses of yellow blossom. There is every 
variety of shade in the leaves, — yellow, purple, copper, 
liver- color, and even inky black. 

Having got the loan of other canoes from Mpololo, and 
three oxen as provision for the way, which made the 
number we had been presented with in the Barotse valley 
amount to thirteen, we proceeded down the river toward 
Sesheke, and were as much struck as formerly with llio 
noble river. The whole scenery is lovely, though the at mo- 
sphere is murky in consequence of the continuance of tho 
smoky tinge of winter. 

The amount of organic life is surprising. At the time 
^he river begins to rise, the Ibis religiosa comes down in 
flocks of fifties, with prodigious numbers of other watcr- 

27* 



318 ABUNDANCE OF WATERFOAVl^ 

fowl. Some of tho sand-banks appear whitened during 
the day with flocks of pelicans ; I once counted three hun- 
dred ; others are brown with ducks, {Anas histrionica,) — 1 
got fourteen of these by one shot, — {Querquedula Hottentota^ 
Smith,) and other kinds. Great numbers of gulls, (Frocel- 
laria tuiiur, Smith,) and several others, float over the sur- 
face. The vast quantity of small birds which feed on in- 
sects show that the river teems also with specimens of 
minute organic life. In walking among bushes on the 
banks, we are occasionally stung by a hornet, which makes 
its nest in form like that of our own wasp, and hangs it 
on the branches of trees. The breeding ffTopyrj is so strong 
in this insect that it pursues any one twenty or thirty 
yards who happens to brush too closely past its nest. Tho 
sting, which it tries to inflict near the eye, is more like a 
discharge of electricity from a powerful machine, or a 
violent blow, than aught else. It produces momentary 
insensibility, and is followed by the most pungent pain 
Yet this insect is quite timid when away from its nest 
It is named Murotuani by the Bechuanas. 

We have tsetse between Nameta and Sekhosi. An in- 
sect of prey, about an inch in length, long-legged and 
gaunt-looking, may be observed flying about and lighting 
upon the bare ground. It is a tiger in its way, for it 
springs upon tsetse and other flies, and, sucking out their 
blood, throws the bodies aside. 

liong before reaching Seshekewehad been informed that 
B party of Matebele, the people of Mosilikatse, had brought 
«ome packages of goods for me to the south bank of the 
river, near Victoria Falls, and, though thay declared they 
had been sent by Mr. Moffat, the Makololo had refused to 
credit the statement of their sworn enemies. They ima- 
gined the parcels were directed to me as a mere trick 
whereby to place witchcraft-medicine in the hands of the 
Makololo. When the Matebele on the south bank called to 
the Makololo on the i^orth tc come over in canoes and re« 



DISCOVERY FORESTALLED. SIS 

ecive the goods sent by Moffat to '^ IS'akc/' the M"akololo 
replied, " Go along with you : wo know better than that. 
How could he tell Moffat to send his things here, he having 
gone away to the north V The Matebele answered, "Ilere 
fire the goods : we place them now before ycu, and if you 
leave them to perish the guilt wiL be yours/' When they 
had departed, the Makololo thought better of it, and, after 
m.ich divination, went over with fear and trembling, and 
carried the packages carefully to an island in the middle of 
the stream; then, building a hut over them to protect 
them from the weather, they left them -, and there I found 
they had remained from September, 1854, till September, 
1855, in perfect safety. Here, as I had often experienced 
before, I found the news was very old, and had lost much 
of its interest by keeping j but there were some good eat- 
ables from Mrs. Moffat. Among other things, I discovered 
that my friend Sir Roderick Murchison, while in his study 
in London, had arrived at the same conclusion respecting 
the form of the African continent as I had lately come to 
on the spot ; and that from the attentive study of the geo- 
logical map of Mr. Bain and other materials, some of which 
were furnished by the discoveries of Mr. Oswell and my- 
self, he had not only clearly enunciated the peculiar configu- 
ration as a hypothesis in his discourse before the Geogra- 
phical Society in 1852, but had even the assurance to send 
me out a copy for my information ! There was not much 
use in nursing my chagrin- at being thus fajrly "cut out" 
by the man who had foretold the existence of the Austra- 
lian gold before its discovery; for here it was in black and 
white. In his easy-chair he had forestalled me by t^iroe 
J ears, though I had been working hard through jungle, 
marsh, and fever, and, since the light dawned on my mind 
at Dilolc, had been cherishing the pleasing delusion that 1 
ihould be the first to suggest the idea that the interior of 
Africa was a watery plateau of less elevation than flanking 
hilly ranges. 
Having waited a few days at Sesheke till the horses 



320 TRADING -PARTY TO LOANDA. 

which we had left at Linyanti should arrive^ ng proceeded 
to that town, and found the wagon, and every thing wq 
had left in Novemher, 1853, perfectly safe. A grand meet* 
iDg of all the people was called to receive our report and 
the articles which had been sent by the governor and mer- 
chants of Loan da. I explained that none of these were 
.my pro2)cri37-^ but that they were sent to show the friendly 
feelings of the white men, and their eagerness to enter into 
commercial relations with the Makololo. I then requested 
my companions to give a true account of what they had 
seen. The wonderful things lost nothing in the telling, tho 
climax always being that they had finished the whole world, 
and had turned only when there was no more land. One 
glib old gentleman asked, " Then you reached Ma Eobert 
[Mrs. L.] ?" They were obliged to confess that she lived 
a little beyond the world. The presents were received with 
expressions of great satisfaction and delight; and on Sun- 
day, when Sekeletu made his appearance at church in his 
uniform, it attracted more attention than the sermon; and 
the kind expressions they made use of respecting myself 
were so very flattering that I felt inclined to shut my eyes. 
Their private opinion must have tallied with tiieir public 
report, for I very soon received offers from volunteers to 
accompany me to the east coast. They said they wished 
lo be able to return and relate strange things like my re- 
cent companions; and Sekeletu immediately made arrange- 
ments with the Arab Ben Habid to conduct a fresh party 
with a load of ivory to Loan da. These, he said, must go 
with him and learn to trade ; they were not to have any 
thing to do in the disposal of the ivory, but simply look 
and learn. My companions were to remain and rest them- 
selves, and then return to Loanda when the others had 
come home. Sekeletu consulted me as to sending presents 
back to the governor and merchants of Loanda; but, not 
possessing much confidence in this Arab, I advised him to 
Bend a present by Pitsane, as he knew who ought to re 
ceive it 






DR. LIVINGSTONE REPROVES SEKELETU. 32l 

Since nay arrival in England, information has been r©- 
'*,cived from Mr. Gabriel that this party had arrived on the 
wo3t coast, but that the ivory had been disposed of to some 
Portuguese merchants in the interior, ana the men had 
been obliged to carry it down to Loanda. They had not 
been introduced to Mr. Gabriel, but that gentleman, havini^ 
learned that they were in the city, went to them and pro- 
nounced the names Pitsane, Mashauana, when all started up 
and crowded round him. When Mr. G. obtainci,! an inter- 
preter, he learned that they had been ordered by Sekeletu 
to be sure and go to my brother, as he termed him. Mr. 
G. behaved in the same liberal manner as he had done to 
my companions, and they departed for their distant homo 
after bidding him a formal and affectionate adieu. 

During the time of our absence at Loanda, the Makololo 
had made two forays and captured large herds of cattle 
One to the lake was in order to punish Lcchulatebe for 
ihe insolence he had manifested after procuring some fire- 
arms ; and the other to Sebola Makwaia, a chief living far 
to the N.E. This was most unjustifiable, and had boor, 
condemned by all the influential Makololo. 

In accordance with the advice of my Libonta friends, I 
did not fail to reprove ^' my child Sekeletu" for his marau- 
ding. This was not done in an angry manner, for no good 
is ever achieved by fierce denunciations. Motibe, his 
father-in-law, said tome, ''Scold him much, but don't let 
others hear you." 

The Makololo expressed groat satisfaction with the route 
we had opened up to thn west, and soon after our arrival a 
''pieho" was called, in order to discuss the question of 
removal to the Barotse valley, so that they might be nearer 
the market. Some of the older men objected to abandon- 
ing the line of defence afforded b}^ the rivers Chobe and 
Zambesi against their southern enemies the Matebele. Tbo 
Makololo generally have an aversion to the Barotse valley, 
un account of the fevers which are annually engendered in 
it as the waters dry up. They prefer it only as a cattlo 



B22 KINDNESS Of THE MAKOLOLO OHIEF. 

Rlatior ; for, though the herds are frequently thinneJ by ir 
epidemic disease, (pe7ipneumon'a,)ihey breed so fast that the 
]o?fics are soon made good. Wherever else the Makololo 
jjjo, the}' always leave a portion of their stock in the charge 
of herdsmen in that prolific valley. Some of the younger 
men objected to removal because the rankness of the grass 
at the Barotse did not allow of their running fast, and be- 
cause there '' it never becomes cool " 

Sekeletu at last stood up, and, addressing me, said, '^I am 
perfectly satisfied as to the great advantages for trade of 
the path which you have opened, and think that we ought 
tu go to the Barotse, in order to make the way from us to 
Loanda shorter; but with whom am I to live there ? If 
you were coming with us, I would remove to-morrow; but 
now you are going to the white man's country to bring Ma 
Kobert, and when you return you will find me near to the 
spot on which you wish to dwell." I had then no idea 
that any healthy spot existed in the country, and thought 
only of a convenient central situation, adapted for inter- 
course with the adjacent tribes and with the coast, such as 
that near to the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye. 

During the whole of my stay with the Makololo, Seke- 
lutu supplied my wants abundantly, appointing some cowa 
to furnish mo with milk, and, when he went out to hunt, 
sent home orders for slaughtered oxen to be given. That 
the food was not given in a niggardly spirit may be inferred 
from the fact that when I proposed to depart on the 20th 
of October he protested against my going off in such a 
hot sun. ^'Only wait," said he, "for the first shower, and 
then I will let you go.'' This was reasonable, for the ther- 
mometer, placed upon a deal box in the sun, rose to 138°. 
it stood at 108° in the shade by day, and 96° at sunset. 

I still possessed some of the coffee which I had brought 
from Angola, and some of the sugar which I had left in my 
wagon. So long as the sugar lasted, Sekeletu favored me 
with his company at meals; but the sugar soon came to a 
close The Makololo, as formerly mentioned, were weli 



SEKELETU'S COMMISSIONS 323 

tt-quainted with the sugarcane, as it is cultivated by the 
Rarotse, but never knew that sugar could be got from ifc 
When I explained the process by which it was produced, 
Sekeletu asked if I could not buy him an apparatus for the 
purpose of making sugar. He said he would plant the 
cane largely if ho only had the means of making the sugar 
from it. I replied that I was unable to purchase a mill, 
wrhen he instantly rejoined, "Why not take ivory to buy 
it ?" As I had been living at his expense, I was glad of 
the opportunity to show my gratitude by serving him; and 
when he and his principal men understood that I was 
willing to execute a commission, Sekeletu gave me an 
order for a sugar-mill, and for all the different varieties of 
clothing that he had ever seen, especially a mohair coat, a 
good rifle, beads, brass wire, &c. &c., and wound up by 
saying, ^^And any other beautiful thing you may see in 
your own country." As to the quantity of ivory required 
to execute the commission, I said I feared that a large 
amount would be necessary. Both he and his councillors 
replied, " The ivory is all your own : if you leave any in 
the country it will be your own fault.'' He was also 
Anxious for horses. The two I had left with him when 1 
went to Loanda were still living, and had been of great use 
to him in hunting the giraffe and eland; and he was now 
anxious to have a breed. This, I thought, might be ob- 
tained at the Portuguese settlements. AH were very much 
delighted with, the donkeys we had brought from Loanda. 
As we found that they were not affected by the bite of the 
tsetse, and there was a prospect of the breed being con- 
tinued, it was gratifying to see the experiment of their 
introduction so far successful. The donkeys came as 
frisky as kids all the way from Loanda uniil we began 
to descend the Leeambye. There we came upon so many 
interlacing branches of the river, i^.nd were obliged to 
drag them through such masses of tangled aquatic plantfs 
that we half drowned them, and were at last obliged to 
leavo them, somewhat exhHusted, at .Nalielo They exri^Ad 



524 THE AUTHaK's INFLUENCE WITH THE NATIVES. 

the unbotmded admiration of my men by tbeir knowledg*^ 
of the different kinds of plants, which, as they remarkot| 
^^the animals had never before seen in their own conntry j" 
and when the donkeys indulged in their masie thej 
startled the inhabitants more than if they had been lions 
We never rode them, nor yet the horse which had beer 
given by the bishop, for fear of hurting Ihem by any 
work. 

Although the Makololo were so confiding^ the reader must 
Rot imagine that they would be so to every individual who 
might visit them. 3Iuch of my influence depended upon 
the good name given me by the Bakwains, and that I 
secured only through a long course of tolerably good eon- 
duct. 'No one ever gains much influence in this country 
without purity and uprightness. The acts of a stranger 
are keenly scrutinized by both young and old; and seldom 
10 the judgment pronounced, even by the heathen, unfair 
or uncharitable. I have heard women speaking in admira- 
tion of a white man because he was pure and never waa 
guilty of any secret immorality. Had he been, they would 
have known it, and, untutored heathen though they be, 
would have despised him in consequence, becret vice 
becomes known throughout the tribe; and, while one un- 
acquainted with the language may imagine a peccadillo to 
be hidden, it is as patent to all as it would be in London 
bad he a placard on his back. 

27th October, 1855. — The first continuous rain of the 
season commenced during the night, the wind being from 
the N.E., as it always was on like occasions ae Kolobeng. 
The rainy season was thus begun, and I made ready to go 
The mother of Sekeletu prepared a bag of groundnuts, by 
frying them with cream with a little salt, as a sort of sand- 
wiches for my journey. This is considered food fit for a 
chief. Others ground the maize from my own garden into 
meal, and Sekeletu pointed out Sekwebu and Kanyata ae 
the persons who should head the party intended to foriu 
my company. Sekwe^u had been captured by the Matebele 



REMARKS OF MAMIRE. 42% 

when a little boy, and the tribe in whieh he was a captive 
dad migrated to the country near Tete ; he had travelled 
along both banks of the Zambesi several times, and w&n 
intimately acquainted with the dialects spoken there. I 
found him to be a person of great prudence and sound 
Judgment, and his subsequent loss at the Mauritius has 
been, ever since, a source of sincere regret. He at once 
recommended our keeping well away from the river, oil 
account of the tsetse and rocky CDuntry, assigning also as 
a reason for it that the Leeamby© beyond the falls turn^ 
round to the N.JST.E. Mamire, who had married the mother 
of Sekeletu, on coming to bid me farewell before starting, 
eaid, "You are now going among people who cannot be 
trusted,.because we have used them badly ; but you go with 
a different message from any they ever heard before, and 
Jesus will be with you and help you, though among enemies^ 
and if he carries you safely, and brings you and Ma liobert 
back again, I shall say he has bestowed a great favor upon 
me. May we obtain a path whereby we may visit and be 
visited by other tribes and by white men I" On telling 
him my fears that he was still inclined to follow the old 
marauding system, which prevented intercourse, and that 
he, from his influential position, was especially guilty in the 
late forays, he acknowledged all rather too freely for my 
taste, but seemed quite aware that the old system was fai 
from right. Mentioning my inability to pay the men who 
were to accompany nie, he replied, "A man wifehos, of" 
coui*se, to appear among his friends, after a long absence; 
with something of his own to show : the whole of the 
ivory in the country is yours, so you must take as much ae 
you can, and Sekeletu will furnish men to carry it." These 
remarks of Mamire are quoted literally, in order to show 
the state of mind of the most influential in the tribe. And, 
as T. wish to give the reader a fair idea of the other side of 
the question as well, it may be mentioned that Motibe 
parried the imputation of the guilt of marauding by every 
possible subterfuge. He would not admit 4hat they hii<l 



826 A THUNDER-STORM. 



done wrong, and laid the guilt of the wars in which the 
Makoioio had engaged on the Boers, the Matehele, and 
every other tribe except his own. When quite a youth, 
Motibe's family had been attacked by a party of Boers : he 
bid himself in an ant-eater's hole, but w^as drawn out and 
thrashed with a whip of hippoj)otamus-hide. When en- 
JQined to live in peace, he would replj^, '^ Teach the Boers 
to laj down their arms first.'* Yet Motibe, on other occa- 
sions, seemed to feel the difference between those who arc 
Christians indeed and those who are so only in name. Ib 
fell our discussions we parted good friends. 



^ 



CHAPTEE XXYI. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE DISCOVERS THE FALLS OP VICTORIA. 

On the 3d of Kovember we bade adieu to our friends at 
Linyanti, accompanied by Sekeletu and about 200 folio w(i)rs^. 
We were all fed at his exj^ense, and he took cattle for this 
purpose fix)m every station we came to. The principal 
men of the Makoioio, Lebeole, Ntlarie, Nkwatlele, &c. were 
also of the party. We passed through the i:)ateh of the 
tsctbc, which exists between Linyanti and Scsheke, by night. 
The r>.ajorrty of the company went on by dayligbl^ in 
ordci to prepare our beds. Sekeletu and I, with about 
forty young men, waited outside the tsetse till dark. We 
then went forward, and about ten o'clock it became so 
pitchy dark that both horses and men were completely 
blinded. The lightning spread over the sky, forming eight 
or ten branches at a time, in sha}>e exactly like those of a 
tree. This, with great volumes of sheet-lightning, enabled 
OS at times to see the whole country. The intervals between 
the flashes were so densely dark as to convey the idea cf 
gtone-blindness. The horses trembled, cried out, and turned 
rouJid, as 'f searching for each other, and every new flasb 



KINDNESS OF MAKOLOLO. 827 

revealed the men taking different directions, laughing, and 
stumbling against each other. The thunder was of that tro- 
mendously-loud kind only to be heard in tropical countries, 
and which friends from India have assured me is louder 
in Africa than any they have ever heard elsewhere. Then 
came a pelting rain, which completed our confusion. After 
the intense heat of the day, we soon felt miserably cold, 
and turned aside to a fire we saw in the distance. This 
had been made by some people on their march ; for this 
path is seldom without numbers of strangers passing to and 
from the capital. My clothing having gone on, 1 lay down 
en the cold ground, expecting to spend a miserable night; 
but Sekeletu kindly covered me with his own blanket and 
(ay uncovered himself. I was much affeeted by this act 
of genuine kindness. If such men must perish by the 
advance of civilization, as certain races of animals do be- 
fore others, it is a pity. God grant that ere this time 
comes they may receive that gospel which is a solace foi 
the soul in death ! 

While at Sesheke, Sekeletu supplied me with twelve 
oxen, — three of which were accustomed to being ridden 
upon, — hoes, and beads to purchase a canoe when we 
should strike the Leeambye bej^ond the falls. He likewise 
presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey, and 
did every thing in his power to make me comfortable for 
the journey. I was entirely dependent on his generosity; 
for the goods I originally brought from the Cape were all 
expended by the time I set off from Linyanti to the west 
coast. I there drew £70 of my salary, paid my men with 
it, and purchased goods for the return-journey to Linyanti. 
These being now all expended, the Makololo again fitted 
mo out, and sent me on to the east coast. I was tluia 
depemlent on their bounty and that of other Africans for 
(he jQcans of going from Linyanti to Loanda, and again 
from lAnyanii to the east coast, and I feel deeply grateful 
to them. Coin would have been of no benefit, for gold and 
fiilver are quite unki own. We were here joir ed by 



828 sekote's jsland 

Moriantsai-e, uncle of Sekeletu and head-man of Sosheke; 
and, entering canoes on the 13th, some sailed down the 
river to the confluence Of the Chobe, while others drove the 
cattle along the banks, spending one night at Mparia, the 
island at the confluence of the Chobc, which is composed 
of trap having crystals of quartz in it coated with a 
pellicle of green copper-ore. Attempting to proceed down 
the river next day, we were detained some hours by a 
strong east wind raising waves so large as to threaten to 
swamp the canoe. The river here is very large and deep, 
and contains two considerable islands, which from either 
bank seem to be joined to the opposite shore. 

Having descended about ten miles, we came to the 
island of Nampene, at the beginning of the rapids, where 
wo were obliged to leave the canoes and proceed along the 
banks on foot. The next evening we slept op}x>site the 
island of Chondo, and, then crossing the Lekone or Lek- 
w^'ne, early the following morning were at the island of 
Sokote, called Kalai. This Sekote was the last of the 
Batoka chiefs whom Scbituane rooted out 

As this was the point from which we intended to strike 
off to the northeast, I resolved on the following day to 
visit the falls of Victoria, called by the natives Mosioa- 
tunya, or, more anciently, Shongwe. Of tho9,Q wo had 
often heard since we came into the country : indeed, one 
of the questions asked by Scbituane was, '' Have you smoke 
that sounds in your country ?" They did not go near 
enough to examine them, but, viewing them with awe at 
a distance, said, in reference to the vapor and noise, "Aiosi 
oa tuny a," (smoke docs sound there.) It was previously 
called Shono-we, the meaning of which 1 could not ascer- 
iain. The word for a *'pot" resembles this, and it may 
mean a seething caldron; but I am not certain of it. 
Hoing persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself were the very 
iirst Europeans who ever visited the Zambesi in the centre 
of the country, and that this is the connecting-link between 
t>>^ known and unknown portions if that river, 1 decided 



VICTORIA FALLS. 329 

to use the same liberty as the Makololo did, and gave the 
only English name I have affixed to any part of the country. 
No better proof of previous ignorance of this river could be 
desired than that an untravelled gentleman, who had spent a 
great part of his life in the study of the geography of Africa 
and knew every thing written on the subject from the time 
of Ptolemy downward, actually asserted in the "Athenseum," 
while I was coming up the E,ed Sea, that this magnificent 
river, the Leeambye, " had no connection with the Zambesi, 
but flowed under the Kalahara Desert and became lost ;" 
and " that, as all the old maps asserted, the Zambesi took its 
rise in the very hills to which we have now come." This 
modest assertion smacks exactly as if a native of Timbuctoo 
should declare that the "Thames" and the "Pool" were dif- 
ferent rivers, he having seen neither the one nor the other. 
Leeambye and Zambesi mean the very same thing, — viz., the 
River. 

Sekeletu intended to accompany me ; but, one canoe 
only having come instead of the two he had ordered, he 
resigned it to me. After twenty minutes' sail from Kalai 
we came in sight, for the first time, of the columns of vapor 
appropriately called "smoke," rising at a distance of five 
or six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are 
burned in Africa. Five columns now arose, and, bending 
in the direction of the wind, they seemed placed against u 
low ridge covered with trees; the tops of the columns ui 
this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. TLej 
were white below, and higher up became dark, so as to 
simulato smoke very closely. The whole scene was ex 
tremely beautiful. The banks and islands dotted over zhe 
river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety 
of color and form. At the period of our visit several trees 
were spangled over with blossoms. Trees have each their 
own physiognomy. There, towering over all, stands the 
great burly baobab, each of whose enormous arms woukl 
form the trunk of a large tree, besides groups of graceful 

palms, which, with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted 

28* 



330 VICTORIA FALLS 

on the fiky, lend their beauty to the scene A3 a hierc 
glyphic they always mean ^'far from jjome/' for one can 
never get over their foreign air in a p' 3ture or landscape 
The silvery mohonono — which in the tropics is in form like 
the cedar of Lebanon — stands in pleasing contrast with the 
dark color of the motsouri, whose cypress-form is dotted 
over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit. Some treea 
resemble the great spreading oak; others assume the cha- 
racter of our own elms and chestnuts; but no one can 
imagine the beauty of the view from any thing Witnessed 
in England. It had never been seen before by Luropean 
eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by 
angels in their flight. The only -want felt is that of raoun- 
taius in the background. The falls are bounded on three 
sides by ridges three hundred or four hundred feet in 
height, which are covere<l with forest, with the red soil 
appearing among the trees. When about half a mile from 
^<he falls, I left the canoe by which we had come down 
thus far, and embarked in a lighter one, with men well 
icquainted with the rapids, who, by passiiig down the 
centre of the stream in the eddies and still places caused 
by many jutting rocks, brought me to an island situated in 
the middle of the river and on the edge of the lip over 
which the water rolls. In coming hither there was danger 
Df being swept down by the streams which rushed along 
on each side of the island ; but the river was now low, and 
we sailed where it is totally impossible to go when the 
water is high. But, though we had reached the island, 
and were within a few yards of the spot a view from 
w"'iich would solve the whole problem^ I believe that no 
one could perceive where the vast bodj' of water went : it 
Boomod to lose itself in the earth, the opposite lip of the 
Ossui'e into which it disappeared being only eighty feet 
distant. At least I did not comprehend it until, creeping 
with awe to the verge, I peered down into a large rent 
which had been made from bank to bank of the broad 
Zambesi, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad 



VICTORIA FALLS. S31 

leaped down a hundred feet and then became suddenly 
compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards. The 
entire falls are simply a crack made in a hard basaltic 
rock from the right to the left bank of the Zambesi, and 
then prolonged from the left bank away through thirty or 
forty miles of hills. If one imagines the Thames filled 
with low, tree-covered hills immediately beyond the tunnel, 
extending as far as Gravesend, the bed of b^ack basaltic 
rock instead of London mud, and a fissure made therein 
from one end of the tunnel to the other down through the 
keystones of the arch, and prolonged from the left end of 
the tunnel through thirty miles of hills, the f>athway being 
one hundred feet down from the bed of the river instead 
of what it is, with the lips of the fissure from eighty to 
one hundred feet apart, then fancy the Thames leaping 
boldly into the gulf, and forced there to change its direc- 
tion and flow from the right to the left bank and then 
rush boiling and roaring through the hills, he may have 
some idea of what takes place at this, the most wonderful 
Bight I had witnessed in Africa. In looking down into the 
fissure on the right of the island, one sees nothing but a 
dense white cloud, which, at the time we visited the spot, 
had two bright rainbows on it. (The sun was on the 
meridian, and the declination about equal to the latitude 
of the place.) From this cloud rushed up a great jet of 
vapor exactly like steam, and it mounted two hundred or 
three hundred feet high; there, condensing, it changed its 
hue to that of dark smoke, and came back in a constant 
shower, which soon wetted us to the skin. This shower 
falls chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure, and a few 
yards back from the lip there stands a straight hedge of 
evergreen trees, whose leaves are always wet. From their 
roots a number of little rills run back into the gulf; but, 
as they flow down the steep wall there, the column of 
vapor, in its ascent, licks them up clean off the rock, and 
away they mount again. They are constantly runnirg 
down, but nevei" reach the blottom. 



532 GIGANTIC FISSURE. 

On tlie left of the island we see the water at the bottom, 
a white rolling mass moving away to the prolongation of 
the fissure, which branches off near the left bank of the 
river. A piece of the rock has fallen off a spot on the left 
of the island, and juts out from the water below, and from 
it I judged the distance which the water falls to be about 
one hundred feet. The walls of this gigantic crack are 
perpendicular, and composed of one homogeneous mass of 
rock. The edge of that side over which the water falls is 
worn off two or three feet, and pieces have fallen away, so 
as to give it somewhat of a serrated appearance. That 
over which the water does not fall is quite straight, except 
at the left corner, where a rent appears and a piece seems 
inclined to fall off. Upon the whole, it is nearly in the 
state in which it was left at the period of its formation. 
The rock is dark brown in color, except about ten feet from 
the bottom, which is discolored by the annual rise of the 
water to that or a greater height. On the left side of the 
island we have a good view of the mass of water which 
causes one of the columns of vapor to ascend, as it leaps 
quite clear of the rock, and forms a thick unbroken fleece 
all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness gave the idea of 
snow, a sight I had not seen for many a day. As it broke 
into (if I may use the term) pieces of water all rushing on 
in the same direction, each gave off several rays of foam, 
exactly as bits of steel, when burned in oxygen gas, give 
off rays of sparks. The snow-white sheet seemed like 
myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each 
of which left behind its nucleus-rays of foam. I never saw 
the appearance referred to noticed elsewhere. It seemed 
to bo the effect of the mass of water leaping at once cleai 
of the rock and but slowly breaking up into s>pray. 

I have mentioned that we saw five columns of vapoi 
ascending from this strange abyss. They are evidently 
formed by the compression suffered by the force of tlie 
water's own fall into an unyielding wedge-shaped space. 
Of tlio five columns, two on the right and one on tlie left of 



1 



ISLAND GARDEN 833 

the island were the largest, and the streams which formed 
them seemed each to exceed in size the falls of the Clyde 
at Stonebyres when that river is in flood. This was the 
period of low- water in the Leeambye: but, as far as I 
could guess, there was a flow of five or six hundred yards 
of water, which, at the edge of the fall, seemed at Last 
three feet deep. 

Having feasted my eyes long on the beautiful sight, 1 
returned to my friends at Kalai, and, saying to Sckeletq 
that he had nothing else worth showing in his country, hia 
curiosity was excited to visit it the next day. I returned 
with the intention of taking a lunar observation from the 
island itself; but the clouds were unfavorable, consequently 
all my determinations of position refer to Kalai. (Lat. 17° 
51' 54" S., long. 25° 41' E.) Sekeletu acknowledged to feel- 
ing a little nervous at the probability of being sucked into 
the gulf before reaching the island. His companions 
amused themselves by throwing stones down, and won- 
dered to see them diminishing in size, and even disappear- 
ing, before they reached the water at the bottom 

I had another object in view in my return to the island. 
I observed that it was covered with trees, the seeds of 
which had probably come down with the stream from the 
distant north, and several of which I had seen nowhere 
else, and every now and then the wind wafted a little of 
the condensed vapor over it, and kept the soil in a state of 
moisture, which caused a sward of grass, growing as gvecm 
as on an English lawn. I selected a spot— not too near 
the chasm, for there the constant deposition of the moisture 
nourished numbers of polyp* of a mushroom shap-e and 
fleshy consistence, but somewhat back — and made a little 
garden. I there planted about a hundred peach and apricot 
stones, and a quantity of coffee-seeds. I had attempted 
fruit-trees before, but, when left in charge of my Makololo 
friends, they were always allowed to wither, after having 
vegetated, by being forgotten. I bargained for a hedge 
with one of the Makololo, and, if he is faithful, Ihave great 



334 RESUMPTION OF THE JOURNEY. 

hopes of Mosioatunya's abilities as a nursery-man. My 
only source of fear is the hippopotami, whose footprints 1 
saw on the island. When the garden was prepared, I cut 
my initials on a tree, and the date 1855. This was the only 
Instance in which I indulged in this piece of vanity. The 
garden stands in front, and, were there no hippopotami, 1 
have no doubt but this will be the parent of all the gardens 
vrhich may yet be in this new country. We then went up 
to Kalai again. 

20fA Novemher. — Sekeletu and his large party having 
conveyed me thus far, and furnished me with a company 
of one hundred and fourteen men to carry the tusks to the 
coast, we bade adieu to the Makololo and proceeded north- 
ward to the Lekone. The country around is very beautiful, 
and was once well peopled with Batoka, who possessed 
enormous herds of cattle. When Sebituane came in former 
times, with his small but warlike party of Makololo, to 
this spot, a general rising took place of the Batoka through 
the whole country, in order to "eat him up;" but his usual 
success followed him, and, dispersing them, the Makololo 
obtained so many cattle that they could not take any note 
of the herds of sheep and goats. The tsetse has been 
brought by buffaloes into some districts where formerly 
cattle abounded. This obliged us to travel the first few 
stages by night. We could not well detect the nature of 
the country in the dim moonlight: the path, however, 
seemed to lead along the high bank of what may have 
been the ancient bed of the Zambesi before the fissure was 
made. The Lekone now winds in it in an opposite direc- 
tion to that in which the ancient river must have flowed. 

2Mh. — We remained a day at the village of Moyara. 
IlereHhe valley in which the Lekone flows trends away to 
the eastward, while our course is more to the northeast. 
The country is rocky and rough, the soil being red sand, 
which is covered with beautiful green trees, yielding abun- 
dance of wild fruits. The father of Moyara was a powerful 
chief; but the son now sits among the ruins of the towii. 



RAVAGE CUSTOMS OP B ATOKA. 'd'Sb 

with four or five wives and very few people. At bis hamlet 
a number of stakes are planted in the ground, and I (iounted 
fifty-four human skulls hung on their points. These were 
Matebele, who, unable to approach Sebituane on the island 
of Loyela, had returned sick and famishing. Moyara'a 
father took advantage of their reduced condition, and, after 
putting them to death, mounted their heads in the Batoka 
fashion. The old man who perpetrated this deed now lies 
in the middle of his son's huts, with a lot of rotten ivory 
over his grave. One cannot help feeling thankful that the 
reign of such wretches is over. They inhabited the whole 
of this side of the country, and were probably the barrier to 
the extension of the Portuguese commerce in this direction. 
When looking at these skulls, I remarked to Moyara that 
many of them were those of mere boys. He assented 
readily, and pointed them out as such. I asked why his 
father had killed boys. <^ To show his fierceness," was the 
answer. ^^Is it fierceness to kill boys?" "Yes : they had 
no business here.'' When T told him that this would pro- 
bably insure his own death if the Matebele came again, he 
replied, " When I hear of their coming I shall hide the 
bones." Ho was evidently proud of these trophies of 
his father's ferocity; and I was assured by other Batoka 
that few strangers ever returned from a visit to this quar 
ter. If IX man wished to curry favor with a Batoka chief, 
ho ascertained when a stranger was about to leave, and 
waylaid him at a distance from the town, and when ho 
brought his head back to the chief it was mounted as a 
trophy, the different chiefs vicing with each other as to 
which should mount the greatest number of skulls in hia 
village. 

Next day we came to Namilanga, or " The Well of Joy." 
ft is a small well dug beneath a very large fig-tree, the 
shade of which renders the water delightfully cool. The 
temperature through the day was 104° in the shade and 94® 
after sunset, but the air was not at all oppressive. This 
well receives its name from the fact that, in former times, 



336 KNOCKING OUT FRONT TEETH. 

marauding-parties, in returning witli cattle, sat down here 
and were regaled with boyaloa, music, and the lullilooing 
of the women from the adjacent towns. 

All the surrounding country was formerly densely peo- 
pled, though now desolate and still. The old head-man 
of the place told us that his father once went to Bambala^ 
where white traders lived, when our informant was a child, 
and returned when he had become a boy of about ten years 
He went again, and returned when it was time to knock 
out his son's teeth. As that takes place at the age of 
puberty, he must have spent at least five years in each 
'ourney. He added that many who went there never re- 
turned, because they liked that country better than this. 
They had even forsaken their wives and children ; and 
children had been so enticed and flattered by the finery 
bestowed upon them there that they had disowned their 
parents and adopted others. The place to which they had 
gone, which they named Bambala, was probably Damba- 
rari, which was situated close to Zumbo. This was the 
first intimation we had of intercourse with the whites. 
The Barotse, and all the other tribes in the central valley, 
have no such tradition as this; nor have cither the one or 
the other any account of a trader's visit to them in ancient 
times. 

All theBatoka tribes follow the curious custom of knock- 
ing out the upper front teeth at the age of puberty. This 
IS done b}^ both sexes; and though the under teeth, being 
relieved from the attrition of the upper, grow long and 
somewhat bent out and thereby cause the under lip to pro- 
trude in a most unsightly way, no young woman thinks 
herself accomplished until she has got rid of the upper in- 
cisors. This custom gives all the Batoka an uncouth, old- 
iran-likc appearance. Their laugh is hideous; yet they 
aro so attached to it that even Sebituane was unable to 
eradicate the practice. He issued orders that none of the 
children living under him shOv Id be subjected to the custom 
by their parents, and disobedience to his mandates was 



THE TRAVELLING PARTY. Uol 

tibually punished -with severity; but, notwithstanding this, 
liie children would appear in the streets without their in- 
ci£ors, and no one would confess to the deed. When ques- 
tioned respecting the origin of this practice, the Batoka 
reply that their object is to be like oxen, and those who 
retain their teeth they consider to resemble zebras. 
Whether this is the true reason or not it is difficult to 
Bay ; but it is noticeable that the veneration for oxen which 
prevails in many tribes should be associated with hatred 
to the zebra, as among the Bakwains, that this operation 
is performed at the same age that circumcision is in other 
tribes, and that here that ceremony is unknown. The 
custom is so universal that a person who has his teeth ia 
considered ugly; and occasionally, when the Batoka bor- 
rowed my looking-glass, the disparaging remark would be 
made respecting boys or girls who still retained their teeth, 
^' Look at the great teeth !" Some of the Makololo give a 
more facetious explanation of the custom : they say that, 
the wife of a chief having in a quarrel bitten her husband's 
hand, he, in revenge, ordered her front teeth to be knocked 
out, and all the men in the tribe followed his example : but 
this does not explain why they afterward knocked out 
their own. 

The Batoka of the Zambesi arc generally very dark in 
color and very degraded and negro-like in appearance, 
while those who live on the high lands we are now ascend- 
ing are frequently of the color of coffee and milk. We 
had a large number of the Batoka of Mokwine in our 
party, sent by Sekeletu to carry his tusks. Their greater 
degradation was probably caused by the treatment of their 
chiefs, — the barbarians of the islands. I found them more 
difficult to manage than any of the rest of my companions, 
being much less reasonable and impressible than the others. 
My part}^ consisted of the head-men aforementioned, Sok- 
webu, and Kanyata. We were joined at the falls by 
another head-man of the Makololo, named Monahia, in 
oomman'l of the Batoka. We had also some of the Bana- 
W 29 



338 REMAINS OP ANTIQUTIT. 

joa under Mosibinjane, and, last of all, a pmi*Il {.arty of 
Basliubia and Barotse under Tuba Mokoro, which had boen 
furnished by Sekeletu because of their ability to swim 
They carried their paddles with them, and, as the Makololo 
suggested, were able to swim over the rivers by night and 
steal canoes if the inhabitants should be so unreasonable 
as to refuse to lend them. These different parties assorted 
together into messes : any orders were given through their 
head-man, and when food was obtained he distributed it to 
the mess. Each party knew its own spot in the encamp 
ment ; and, as this was always placed so that our backs 
should be to the east, the direction from whence the pre- 
vailing winds came, no time was lost in fixing the sheds of 
our encampment. They each took it in turn to pull grass 
to make my bed ; so I lay luxuriously. 

November 26. — As the oxen could only move at night, in 
consequence of a fear that the buffaloes in this quartei 
might have introduced the tsetse, I usually performed the 
march by day on foot, while some of the men brought on 
the oxen by night. On coming to the villages undei 
Marimba, an old man, we crossed the Unguesi, a rivulet 
which, like the Lekone, runs backward. It falls into the 
Leeambye a little above the commencement of the rapids. 

"We passed the remains of a very large town, which, fron: 
the only evidence of antiquity afforded by ruins in this 
country, must have been inhabited for a long period : the 
millstones of gneiss, trap, and quartz were worn down two 
and a half inches perpendicularly. The ivory gravestones 
soon rot away. Those of Moyara's father, who must have 
di 3d not more than a dozen years ago, were crumbling into 
powder ; and we found this to be generally the ease all 
over the Batoka country. The region around is pretty 
well covered with forest; but there is abundance cf open 
pasturage, and, as we are ascending in altitude, we find 
the grass to be short and altogetlier unlike the tangled 
herbage of the Barotse valley. 



A. 



LOW HILLS. 33)1 



CHAPTEE XXYII. 

THE BAIOKA COUNTRY — DR. LIVINGSTONE VISIIB THE OniEIP 

MONZE. 

November 27. — Still at Marimba's. In the adjacent 
country palms abound, but none of that species which 
yields the oil: indeed, that is met with only near the 
coast. There are numbers of flowers and bulbs just shoot- 
ing up from the soil. The surface is rough and broken 
into gullies; and, though the country is parched, it has 
not that appearance, so many trees having put forth their 
fresh green leaves at the time the rains ought to have 
come. Among the rest stands the mola, with its dark 
brownish-green color and spreading oak-like form. In the 
distance there are ranges of low hills. On the north we 
have one called Kanjele, and to the east that of Kaonka, to 
which we proceed to-morrow. We have made a consider- 
able detour to the north, both on account of our wish to 
avoid the tsetse and to visit the people. Those of Kaonka 
are the last Batoka we shall meet in friendship with the 
Makololo. 

November 28. — The inhabitants of the last of Kaonka'« 
villages complained of being plundered by the independent 
Batoka. The tribes in front of this are regarded by the 
Makololo as in a state of rebellion. I promised to speak to 
the rebels on the subject, and enjoined on Kaonka the duty 
of giving them no offence. According to Sekeletu's order, 
Kaonka gave us the tribute of maize-corn and groundnuts 
which would otherwise have gone to Linyanti. This had 
been done at every village, and we thereby saved the 
people the trouble of a journey to the capital. My own 
Batoka had brought away such loads of provisions from 
their homes that we were in no want of food. 



840 BOKDER-TERRITOKT 

After leaving Kaonka, we travelled a\er an tmirihabited, 
gently-undulating, and most beautiful district, the t order- 
territory between those who accept and those who reject 
the sway of the Makololo. The face of the country appears 
as if in long waves running north and south. There ar€ 
DO rivers, though water stands in pools in the hollows. 
We were now come into the country which my people all 
magnify as a perfect paradise. Sebituane was driven from 
it by the Matebele. It suited him exactly for cattle, corn, 
and health. The soil is dry, and often a reddish sand: 
there are few trees, but fine large shady ones stand dotted 
here and there over the country Avhere towns formerly 
stood. One of the fig family I measured and found to be 
forty feet in circumference ; the lieart had been burned out, 
and some one had made a lodging m it, for we saw the 
remains of a bed and a fire. The sight of the open country, 
with the increased altitude we were attaining, was most 
refreshing to the spirits. Large game abound. We see Id 
the distance buffaloes, elands, hartebeest, gnus, and ele- 
phants, all very tame, as no one disturbs them. Lions, 
which always accompany other large animals, roared about 
us; but, as it was moonlight, there was no danger. In the 
evening, while standing on a mass of granite, one began to 
roar at me, though it was still light. The temperature waa 
pleasant, as the rains, though not universal, had fallen Id 
many places. It was very cloudy, preventing observations. 
The temperature at 6 a.m. was 70°, at mid-day 90°, in the 
evening 84°. This is ygtj pleasaivt on the high lands, with 
but little moisture in the air. 

On the 30th we crossed the river Kalomo, which is about 
fifty yards broad, and is the only stream that never driea 
up on this ridge. The current is rapid, and its course is 
toward the south, as it joins the Zambesi at some distance 
below the falls. The TJnguesi and Lekone, with their 
feeders, flow westward, this river to the south, and all 
those to which we are about to come take an easterly di- 
rection. We were thus at the apex of the ridge, and found 



WOUNDED BUFFALO ASSISTED. 34| 

tlmt, a& water boiled at 202°, our altitude above the level 
of the sea was over 5000 feet. 

We met an elephant on the Kalomo which had no tusks 
This IS as rare a thing in Africa as it is to find them "vitk 
tusks in Ceylon. As soon as she saw us she made off. Jt 
is remarkable to see the fear of man operating cvec on this 
huge beast. Buffaloes abound, and wc see large herds cf 
thom feeding in all dii^eetions by day. When much dis- 
imbed by man, they retire into the densest parts of the 
forest and feed by night only. We secured a fine large 
bull by crawling close to a herd. When shot, he fell down, 
and the rest, not seeing their enemy, gazed about, wonder- 
ing where the danger lay. The others came back to it, 
and, when we showed oui-selves, much to the amuscmer^t 
of my companions, they lifted him up with their horns, 
and, half supporting him in the crowd, bore him away. 
All these wild animals usually gore a wounded companion 
and expel him from the herd; even zebras bite and kick 
an unfortunate or a diseased one. It is intended by this 
instinct that none but the perfect and healthy ones should 
propagate the species. In this case they manifested their 
usual propensity to gore the wounded ; but our appearance 
at that moment caused them to take flight, and this, with 
the goring being continued a little, gave my men the im- 
pression that they were helping away their wounded com- 
panion. He was shot between the fourth and fifth ribs ; 
the ball passed through both lungs and a rib on the oppo- 
site side, and then lodged beneath the skin. But, though 
it was eight ounces in weight, yet he ran off some distance, 
and was secured only by the people driving him into a pool 
of water and killing him there with their spears. The 
herd ran away in the direction of our camp, and then came 
bounding past us again. We took refuge on a largo ant- 
hill, and as they rushed by us at full gallop I had a good 
opportunity of seeing that the leader of a herd of about 
sixty was an old cow : all the others allowed her a full 

half-length in their front. On her withers sat about twenty 

2«* 



iJ42 THE BUFFALO-BIRD. 

buffalo-birds, {Textor erythrarhynchus, Smith,) which act the 
part of guardian spirits to the animals. When the tulTalo 
is quietly feeding, this bird may be seen hopping on the 
ground picking up food, or sitting on its back ridding it of 
the insects with which their skins are sometimes infested. 
The sight of the bird being much more acute than that cf 
the buffalo, it is soon alarmed by the approach of any dan- 
ger; and, flying up, the buffaloes instantly raise their heads 
to discover the cause which has led to the sudden flight ot 
their guardian. They sometimes accompany the buffaloes 
in their flight on the wing; at other times they sit as above 
described. 

Another African bird — namely, the Buphaga Africana — 
attends the rhinoceros for a similar purpose. It is called 
''kala" in the language of the Bcchuanas. When theso 
people wish to express their dependence upon another, 
they address him as " my rhinoceros," as if they were tho 
birds. The satellites of a chief go by tho same name 
This bird cannot be said to depend entirely on the insects 
on that animal, for its hard, hairless skin is a protection 
against all except a few spotted ticks ; but it seems to be 
attached to the beast somewhat as the domestic dog is to 
man; and, while the buffalo is alarmed by the sudden flying 
up of its sentinel, the rhinoceros, not having keen sight, 
but an acute ear, is warned by the cry of its associate, the 
Buphaga Africana. The rhinoceros feeds by night, and its 
sentinel is frequently heard in the morning uttering its 
well-known call as it searches for its bulky companion. 
One species of this bird, observed in Angola, possesses a bill of 
a peculiar scoop or stone-forceps form, as if intended only 
to toar off insects from the skin ; and its claws are as sharp 
as needles, enabling it to hang on to an animal's ear while 
performing a useful service within it. This sharpness of 
eho claws allows the bird to cling to the nearly-insensible 
cuticle without irritating the nerves of pain on the true 
skin, exactly as a burr does to the human hand; but, in the 
case of tho Buphaga Africana and erythrorhyncha, cthei 



LEADERS or HERDS. 343 

food is partaken of, for we observed flocks of them loosting 
on the reeds in spots where neither tame nor wild animals 
were to be found. 

The most wary animal in a herd is generally the "leader." 
When it is shot, the others often seem at a loss what to do 
and stop in a state of bewilderment. I have seen them 
then attempt to follow each other, and appear quite con- 
fused, no one knowing for half a minute or more where to 
direct the flight. On one occasion I happened to shoot the 
leader, a young zebra mare, which at some former time 
had been bitten on the hind-leg by a carnivorous animal, 
and, thereby made unusually wary, had, in consequence, 
become a leader. If they see cither one of their own herd 
or any other animal taking to flight, wild animals invariably 
flee. The most timid thus naturally leads the rest. It is 
not any other peculiarity, but simply this provision, which 
is given them for tho preservation of the race. The great 
increase of wariness which is seen to occur when the females 
bring forth their young, causes all the leaders to be at that 
time females; and there is a probability that the separa- 
tion of sexes into distinct herds, which is annually observed 
in many antelopes, arising from the simple fact that the 
greater caution of the she antelopes is partaken of only by 
the young males, and their more frequent flights now havo 
the effect of leaving the old males behind. I am inclined 
to believe this, because they are never seen in the act ot 
expelling the males. 

December 2, 1855. — We remained near a small hill, called 
Maundo, where we began to be frequently invited by the 
honey-guide, (Cuculus indicator.) Wishing to ascertain the 
truth of the native assertion that this bird is a deceiver, 
and by its call sometimes leads to a wild beast and not to 
honey, I inquired if any of my men had ever been led by 
this friendly little bird to any thing else than what its 
name implies. Only one of the one hundred and fourteen 
could say lie had been led to an elephant instead of a hivo 
1 am quite convinced that the majority of people who 



344 bebituane's former residence 

uomiiiit themselves to its guidance are led to honey, and tc 
it alone. 

On the 3d we crossed the river Mozuma, or river of Dila, 
having travelled through a heautifully-undulating pastoral 
country. To the south, and a little east of this, stands Ihe 
hill Taba Cheu, or '^ White Mountain," from a mass of whiti 
rock, probably dolomite, on its top. But none of the hills 
are of any great altitude. 

At the river of Dila we saw the spot where Sebituane 
lived, and Sekwebu pointed out the heaps of bones of cattle 
which the Makololo had been obliged to slaughter after 
performing a march with great herds ca2:)tured from the 
Jiatoka through a patch of the fatal tsetse. When Sebi- 
tuane saw the symptoms of the poison, he gave orders to 
his people to eat the cattle. He still had vast numbers; 
and when the Matebele, crossing the Zambesi opposite this 
part, came to attack him, he invited the Batoka to take 
repossession of their herds, he having so many as to be 
jnable to guide them in their flight. The country was at 
that time exceedingly rich in cattle, and, besides pasturage, 
it is all well adapted for the cultivation of native produce. 
Being on the eastern slope of the ridge, it receives more 
rain than any part of the westward. Sekwebu had been 
instructed to point out to me the advantages of this posi* 
tion for a settlement, as that which all the Makololo had 
hever ceased to regret. It needed no eulogy from Sek- 
webu ; 1 admired it myself, and the enjoyment of good 
health in fine open scenery had an exhilarating effect od 
my spirits. The great want was population, the Batoka 
having all taken refuge in the hills. We were now in th« 
vicinity of those whom the Makololo deem rebels, and felt 
■nme anxiety as to how we should be received. 

On the 4th we reached their first village. Remaining at 
a distance of a quarter of a mile, we sent two men to 
inform them who we were and that our purposes were 
peaceful. Tho head-man came and spoke civilly, but, when 
nearly dark the people of another village arrived and 



PROPHETIC Jj'RENZr. 845 

behaved very differently. They began by trying to spear 
a young man who had gone for water. Then they ap- 
pioached us, and one came forward howling at the top cl 
hib voice in the most hideous manner : his eyes were shot 
out, his lips covered with foam, and every muscle of his 
frame quivered. He came near to me, and, having a small 
battle-axe in his hand, alarmed my men lest he might 
do violence; but they were afraid to disobey my previous 
orders and to follow their own inclination by knocking 
him on the head. I felt a little alarmed too, but would not 
fihow fear before my own people or strangers, and kept a 
Bharp look-out on the little battle-axe. It seemed to me a 
case of ecstasy or prophetic frenzy voluntarily produced. I 
felt it would be a sorry way to leave me world to get 
my head chopped by a mad savage, though that, perhaps, 
would be preferable to hydrophobia or delirium tremens. 
Sekwebu took a spear in his right hand, as if to pierce a 
bit of leather, but in reality to plunge it into the man if he 
offered violence to me. After my courage had been suffi- 
ciently tested, I beckoned with the head to the civil head- 
man to remove him; and he did so by drawing him aside. 
This man pretended not to know what he was doing. I 
would fain have felt his pulse, to ascertain whether the 
violent trembling were not feigned, but had not much 
inclination to go near the battle-axe again. There was, 
however, a flow of perspiration, and the excitement con- 
tinued fully half an hour, then gradually ceased. This 
paroxysm is the direct opposite of hypnotism, and it is 
singular that it has not been tried in Europe as well as 
clairvoyance. This second batch of visitors took no pains 
to conceal their contempt for our small party, saying to 
each other, in a tone of triumph, '^They are quite a god- 
send!" — literally, " God has apportioned them to us." "They 
are lost among the tribes !" ^' They have wandered in order 
to be destroyed, and what can they do without shielde 
among so many ?" Some of them asked if there were no 
other parties. Sekeletu had ordered my men not to take 



316 CLOTHING DESPISED 

theii shields, as in the case of my first company. We 
were looked upon as unarmed, and an easy prey. \V"6 
prepared against a night-attack by discharging and re- 
loading our guns, which were exactly the same :n number 
(Gve) as on the former occasion, as I allowed my iate com- 
panions to retain those which I purchased at Loanda. We 
were not molested; but some of the enemy tried to lead us 
toward the Bashukulompo, who are considered to be the 
fiercest race in this quarter. As we knew our direction to 
the confluence of the Kafue and Zambesi, we declined their 
guidance, and the civil head-man of the evening before 
then came along with us. Crowds of natives hovered 
round us in the f'^rest ; but he ran forward and explained, 
and we were not molested. That night we slept by a little 
village- under a low range of hills, which are called Chiza- 
mena. The country here is more woody than on the high 
lands we had left; but the trees are not in general large. 

When we had passed the outskirting villages which alone 
consider themselves in a state of war with the Makololo, 
we found the Batoka, or Batonga, as they here call them- 
selves, quite friendly. Great numbers of them came from 
all the surrounding villages with presents of maize and 
masuka, and expressed great joy at the first appearance of 
a white man and harbinger of peace. The women clothe 
themselves better than the Balonda, but the men go in puns 
naturalihus. They walk about without the smallest sense 
of shame. They have even lost the tradition of the " fig- 
leaf" I asked a fine, large-bodied old man if he did not 
think it would be better to adopt a little covering. lie 
looked with a pitying leer, and laughed with surprise at my 
thinking him at all indecent : he evidently considered him. 
self above such weak superstition. I told them that, on 
my return, I should have my family with me, and no one 
must come near us in that state. ^' What shall we put on 7 
we have no clothing." It was considered a good joke 
when I told them that, if they had nothing else, they must 
put on a bun<^h of grass. 



STRANGE MODE OP SALUTATION. 317 

The farther we advanced the more we found the country 
swarming with inhabitants. Great numbers came to see 
the w hile man, — a sight they had ncT er beheld before. They 
always brought presents of maize and masuka. Theii 
mode 01 salutation is quite singular. They throw them* 
aelves on their backs on the ground, and, rolling from side 
to side, slap the outside of their thighs as expressions of 
thankfulness and welcome, uttering the words "Kina 
bomba." This method of salutation was to me very dia- 
agreeablC; and I never could get reconciled to it. I called 
out, " Stop, stop! I don't want that;" but they, imagining 
I was dissatisfied, only tumbled about more furiously and 
slapped their thighs with greater vigor. The mon being 
totally unclothed, this performance imparted to my mind 
a painful sense of their extreme degradation. My own 
Batoka were much more degraded than the Barotse, and 
more reckless. We had to keep a strict watch, so as not 
to be involved by their thieving from the inhabitants, in 
whose country and power we were. We had also to watch 
the use they made of their tongues, for some within hear- 
ing of the villagers would say, " I broke all the pots of 
that village,^' or ^'I killed a man there." Thoy wero 
eager to recount their soldier-deeds when they were in 
company with the Makololo in former times as a conquer- 
ing army. They were thus placing us in danger by their 
remarks. I called them together, and spoke to them about 
their folly, and gave them a pretty plain intimation that I 
meant to insist upon as complete subordination as I had 
secured in my former journey, as being necessary for the 
safety of the party. Happily, ^t never was needful to 
resort to any other measure for their obedience, as they al) 
tolieved that I would enforce it. 

December 6. — We passed the night near a series of villages. 
Before we came to a stand under our tree, a man came 
ranning to U9 with hands and arms firmly bound with 
cords behind his back, en'^Tcating me to release him 
"Wlien I had dismounted, the head-man of the village 



318 INTER VIE^V WITH MONZE. 

adv^anced, and I inquired the prisoner' « offence. He stated 
that he had come from the Bashukulompo as a fugitive, and 
he had given him a wife and garden and a supply of seed; 
but^ on refusing a demand for more, the prisoner had 
threatened to kill him, and had been seen the night before 
skulking about the village, apparently with that intention. 
I declined interceding unless he would confess to his father- 
in-laW; and promise amendment. He at first refused to 
promise to abstain from violence, but afterward agreed. 
The father-in-law then said that he would take him to the 
village and release him ; but the prisoner cried out, bitterly, 
"He will kill me there! don't leave me, white man." I 
ordered a knife, and one of the villagers released him on 
the spot. His arms were cut by the cords, and he was 
quite lame from the blows he had received. 

We spent Sunday, the 10th, at Monze's village, who is 
considered the chief of all the Batoka we have seen. Ho 
lives near the hill Kisekise, whence we have a view of at 
least thirty miles of open undulating country, covered wTth 
short grass and having but few trees. These open lawns 
would in any other land, as well as this, be termed pas- 
toral ; but the people have no cattle, and only a few goats 
and fowls. 

The chief Monze came to us on Sunday morning, wrapped 
in a large cloth, and rolled himself about in the dust, 
screaming "Kina bomba," as they all do. The sight of 
great naked men wallowing on the ground, though intended 
to do me honor, was always very painful : it made me feel 
thankful that my lot had been cast in such different cir- 
cumstances from that of so many of my fellow-men. One 
of his wives accompanied him; she would have been comely 
if her teeth had been spared ; she had a little battle-axe in 
her hand, and helped her husband to scream. She wai 
much excited, for she had never seen a white man before 
We rather lilted Monze, for he soon felt at home among us, 
and kept up conversation during much of the day. One 
head-man of a village after another arrived, and each oi 



FRIENDLY FEELINGS TOWARD EUROPEANS. 849 

them supplied us liberally with maize, groundnuts, and 
corn. Monze gave us a goat and a foAvl, and appeared 
highly satisfied with a present of some handkerchiels I had 
got in my supplies left at the island. Being of printed 
cotton, they excited great admiration ; and, when I put a 
gaudy-colored one as a shawl about his child, he said that 
he would send for all his people to make a dance about it. 
In telling them that my object was to open up a path 
whereby they might, by getting merchandise for ivory, 
avoid the guilt of selling their children, I asked Monze, 
with about one hundred and fifty of his men, if they would 
like a white man to live among them and teach them. All 
expressed high satisfaction at the prospect of the white 
man and his path : they would protect both him and his 
property. I asked the question, because it would be of 
great importance to have stations in this healthy region, 
whither agents oppressed by sickness might retire, and 
which would serve, moreover, as part of a chain of com- 
munication between the interior and the coast. The 
answer does not mean much more than what I know, by 
other means, to be the case, — that a white man of good sense 
would be welcome and safe in all these parts. By upright- 
ness, and laying himself out for the good of the people, he 
would be known all over the country as a benefactor of the 
race. None desire Christian instruction, for of it they 
have no idea. But the people are now humbled by tho 
scourgings they have received, and seem to be in a favor* 
able state for the reception of the gospel. The gradual 
restoration of their former prosperity in cattle, simul- 
taneously with instruction, would operate beneficially upon 
their minds. The language 'S a dialect of the other negro 
languages in the great valley; and, as many of the Batoka 
living under the Makololo understand both it and tho 
Sichuana, missionaries could soon acquire it through that 
medium. 

Monze had never been visited by any white man, but 
bad seen black native traders, who, he said, came for ivory^ 



350 GRATITUDE OP RELEASED CAPTIVE. 

not for slaves. He had heard of white men passing far to 
the east of him to Cazembe, — referring, no doubt, to Pereira, 
Lacerda, and others, who have visited that chief. 

Monze came on Monday morning, and^ on parting, pre- 
sented us with a piece of a buffalo which had been killed 
the day before by lions. We crossed the rivulet Makoe, 
which runs westward into the Kafue, and went northward 
in order to visit Semalembue, an influential chief there. 
We slept at the village of Monze' s sister, who also passes 
by the same name. Both he and his sister are feminine in 
their appearance, but disfigured by the foolish custom of 
knocking out the upper front teeth. 

It is not often that jail-birds turn out well ; but the first 
person who appeared to welcome us at the village of 
Monze's sister was the prisoner we had released in the 
way. He came with a handsome present of corn and 
meal, and, after praising our kindness to the villagers who 
had assembled around us, asked them, "What do you stand 
gazing at? Don't you know that they have mouths like 
other people ?" He then set off and brought large bundles 
of grass and wood for our comfort, and a pot to cook our 
food in. 

December 12. — The morning presented the appearance of 
a continuous rain from the north, — the first time we had 
seen it set in from that quarter in such a southern latitude. 
In the Bechuana country, continuous rains are always froBC 
the northeast or east, while in Londa and Angola they are 
from the north. At Pun go Andongo, for instance, the 
irhitewash is all removed from the north side of the houses. 
It cleared up, however, about nid-day, and Monze's sister 
conducted us a mile or two upon the road. On parting, 
she said that she had forwarded orders to a distant village 
to send food to the point where we should sleep. In ex- 
pressing her joy at the prospect of living in peace, she said 
it would be so pleasant "to sleep without dreaming of any 
one pursuing them with a spear." 

In our front we had ranges of hills called Cbamai, covered 



EFFECT OF RAINS. Sbl 

w.th trees. We crossed the river Nackachinta, flowing 
westward into the Kafue, and then passed over ridges of 
rocks of the same mica schist which we found so abundant 
in Golungo Alto : here they were surmounted by reddish 
porpliyry and finely-laminated feldspathic grit with trap. 

As we passed along, the people continued to supply us 
with food in great abundance. They had by some means 
or other got a knowledge that I carried medicine, and, 
somewhat to the disgust of my men, who wished to keep 
it all to themselves, brought their sick children for euro. 
Some of them I found had hooping-cough, which is one of 
the few epidemics that range through this country. 



CHAPTEE XXYIII. 



DR. LIVINGSTONE DESCENDS THE ZAMBESI RIVER TO ITS CON- 
FLUENCE WITH THE LOANGWA. 

ISth. — The country is becoming very beautiful, and fur- 
rowed by deep valleys; the underlying rocks, being igneous, 
have yielded fertile soil. There is great abundance of large 
game. The buffaloes select open spots, and often eminences, 
as standing-places through the day. We crossed the Mbai, 
and found in its bed rocks of pink marble. Some little 
hills near it are capped by marble of beautiful whiteness, 
the underlying rock being igneous. Violent showers occur 
frecpienlly on the bills, and cause such sudden sweeping floods 
m these rivulets that five of our men, who had gone to tho 
other side for firewood, were obliged to swim back. The 
temperature of the air is lowered considerably by the daily 
rains. Several times the thermometer at sunrise has been 
as low as 68°, and 71° at sunset. Generally, however, it 
stood at from 72° to 74° at sunrise, 90° to 96° at mid^iay, and 



352 AN ELEPHANT SHOT. 

80° to 84° at sunset. The sensation, however, as before 
remarked, was not disagreeable. 

14ith. — We entered a most beautiful valley, abounding in 
large game. Finding a buffalo lying down, I went to 
secure him for our food. Three balls did not kill him, and, 
as he turned round as if for a charge, we ran for the shelter 
of some rocks. Before wo gained them, we found that 
three elephants, j)robably attracted by the strange noise, 
had cut off our retreat on that side : they, however, turned 
ehort off, and allowed us to gain the rocks. We then saw 
that the buffalo was moving off quite briskly, and, in order 
not to be entirely balked, I tried a long shot at the last of 
the elephants, and, to the great joy o'f my people, broke his 
fore-leg. The young m*en soon brought him to a stand, 
and one shot in the brain despatched him. I was right 
glad to see the joy manifested at such an abundant supply 
of meat. 

On the following day, while my men were cutting up 
the elephant, great numbers of the villagers came to enjoy 
the feast. We were on the side of a fine green valley, 
studded here and there with trees and cut by numerous 
rivulets. I had retired from the noise, to take an observa- 
tion among some rocks of laminated grit, when I beheld 
an elephant and her calf at the end of the valley, about 
two miles distant. The calf was rolling in the mud, and 
the dam was standing fanning herself with her great ears. 
As I looked at them through my glass, I saw a long str'ng 
of my own men appearing on the other side of them, and 
Sekwebu came and told me that these men had gone off, 
uaying, '^ Our father will see to-day what sort of men he 
has got." I then went higher up the side of the valley, in 
order to have a distinct view of their mode of hunting. 
The goodly beast, totally unconscious of the approach of 
an enemy, stood for some time suckling her young one, 
which seemed about two years old : they then went into a 
pit containing mud, and smeared themselves all over with 
it-, the little or,e frisking about his dam, flapping his cars 




w 



ELEPHANT-HUNTINO. 355 

and tossing his trunk incessantly, in elephantine fashion 
She kept flapping her ears and wagging her tail, as if in 
the height of enjojnucnt. Then hegan the piping of hei 
enemies, which was performed by blowing into a tube, or 
the hands closed together, as boys do into a key. They 
c^U out to attract the animal's attention : — 

'*0 chief! chief! we have come to kill you. 

chief! chief! many more will die besides yea," &c. 
*' The gods hAve said it," &c. &«. 

Both animals expanded their cars and listened, then left 
their bath as the crowd rushed toward them. The little 
one ran forward toward the end of the valley, but, seeing 
the men there, returned to his dam. She placed herself on 
the danger-side of her calf, and passed her proooscis over it 
again and again, as if to assure it of safety. 6hG frequently 
looked back to the men, who kept up an incessant shoutings 
singing, and piping; then looked at her young one and 
ran after it, sometimes sideways, as if her feelings were 
divided between anxiety to protect her uifspring and desire 
to revenge the temerity of her persecutors. The men kept 
about a hundred yards in her rear, and some that distance 
from her flanks, and continued thus until she was obliged 
to cross a rivulet. The time spent in descending and get- 
ting up the opposite bank allowed of their coming up to 
the edge and discharging their spears at about twenty 
yards' distance. After the first discharge she appeared with 
her sides red with blood, and, beginning to flee for her own 
life, seemed to think no more of her young. I had pre- 
viously sent off Sekwebu with orders to spare the calf, li 
ran very fast, but neither young nor old ever enter into a 
gallop : their quickest pace is only a sharp walk. Before 
Sekwebu could reach them, the calf had taken refuge Ib 
the water, and was killed. The pace of the dam gradually 
became slower. She turned with a shriek of rage, and 
made a furious charge back among the men. They 
vanished at right angles to her course, or sideways, and, 
as she ran straight on, she went through the whole party 



856 ELEPHANT-HUNTING. 

but came Lear no one except a man who wore a piece of 
cloth on his shoulders. Eright clothing is always dangerous 
in these cases. She charged three or four limes^ and, eX' 
cept in the first instance, never went farther than one 
hundred yards. She often stood after she hud crossed a 
hvulet, and faced the men, though she received fresh 
spears. It was hy this process of spearing and loss ol 
blood that she was killed; for at last, making a short 
charge, she staggered round and sank down dead iu a 
kneeling posture. I did not see the whole hunt, having; 
been tempted away by both sun and moon appearing 
onclouded. I turned fix>m the spectacle of the destruction 
of noble animals, which might be made so useful in Africa, 
with a feeling of sickness; and it was not relieved by the 
recollection that the ivory was mine, though that was tb:) 
case. I regretted to see them killeu, and more especially 
the young one, the meat not being at all necessary at that 
time ; but it is Hght to add that I did not feel sick when 
my own blood was up the day before. We ought, 2>erhaps, 
to judge those deeds more leniently in which we ourselves 
have no temptation to engage. Had I not been 2>reviously 
guilty of doing the very same thing, I might have prided 
myself on superior humanity when I experienced the 
Dausea in viewing my men kill these two. 

Passing the rivulet Losito, and through the mnges oi 
hills, we reached the residence of Semalembue on the 18th. 
His village is situated at the bottom of ranges through 
which the Kafae finds a 2>assage, and close to the bank 
of that river. The Kafue, sometimes called Kahowhe or 
Bashukulompo River, is upward of two hundred yards wide 
here, and full of hippojwiami, the young of which may be 
Been perched on the necks of their dams. At this point wo 
had reached about the same level as Linyanti. 

Semalembue paid us a visit soon after our arrival, and 
said that he had often heard of me and, now that he had 
the pleasure of seeing me, he fearet that I should sleep the 
first night at his village hungry. This was considered the 



SEMALEMBUE AND HIS PEOPLE. 357 

fiandsome way of introducing a present, for lie ilien liandod 
five or FIX baskets of meal and maize, and an enormous one 
of groundnuts. Kext morning he gave me about twenty 
baskets more of meal. I could make but a poor return for 
his kinaness; but he accepted my apologies politely, saying 
that he knew there were no goods in the country from 
which I had come, and, in professing great joy at the 
words of peace I spoke, he said, '^Now I shall cultivato 
largely, in the hope of eating and sleeping in peace." It 
IS noticeable that all whom we have yet met eagerly caught 
np the idea of living in peace as the probable eifect of the 
gospel. They require no explanation of the existence of 
the Deity. Sekwebu makes use of the term '^ Eeza," and 
they appear to understand at once. Like negroes in 
general, they have a strong tendency to worship; and 1 
heard that Semalembue gets a good deal of ivory from the 
surrounding tribes on pretence of having some supernatural 
power. He transmits this to some other chiefs on the 
Zambesi, and receives in return English cotton goods which 
come from Mozambique by Babisa traders. My men here 
began to sell their beads and other ornaments for cotton 
cloth. Semalembue was accompanied by about forty peo- 
ple, all large men. They have much wool on their ho^ds, 
which is sometimes drawn all together up to the crown 
and tied there in a large tapering bunch. The forehead 
and rouod by the cars is shaven close to the base of this 
tuft. Others draw out the hair on one side and twist it 
into 1 ttle strings. The rest is taken over and hangs above 
tho ear, which gives the appearance of having a cap cocked 
jauntily on tiie side of the head. 

The mode of salutation is by clapping the hands. Yarioufl 
parties of women came from the surrounding villages to 
see the white man, but all seemed very much afraid. Their 
fear, which I seldom could allay, made them, when ad- 
dressed, clap their hands with increasing vigor. Sekweba 
was the only one of the Makololo who knew this part of 
tho oo'intry^ and this was the region which to hia min^ 



558 ^^E KAFCB. 

was best adapted for the residence of a tribe. Tlie natives 
geueralh' have a good idea of the nature of the soil and 
pastnrogo, and Sekwebu expatiated with great eloquence on 
the capabilities of this ])art for supplying the wants of the 
Makololo. There is certainly abundance of room at pre- 
sent in the country for thousands and thousands more of 
population. 

We passed near the Losito, a former encampment of 
the Matebele, with whom Sekwclju had lived. At the 
sight of the bones of the oxen they had devoured, and the 
spot w^here savage dances had taken place, though all de- 
serted now, the. poor fellow burst out into a wild JMatebele 
song. lie pointed out also a district, about two days and 
a half west of Seraalembuc, where Sebituane had formerly 
dwelt. There is a hot fountain on the hills there named 
"Nakalombo," which may be seen at a distance emitting 
steam. *' There," said Sekwebu, "had your Molekane [Sebi- 
tuane] been alive, he would have brought you to live wdth 
him. You would be on the bank of the river; and, by 
taking canoes, you would at once sail down tathc Zambesi 
and visit the white people at the sea.'' 

The Kafue enters a narrow gorge close by the village of 
Semalcmbue : as the hill on the north is called Bolengwe, 
I apply that name to the gorge, (lat. 15° 48' 19" S., long. 28*^ 
22' E.) Seraalembue said that he ought to see us over the 
river; so he accompanied us to a pass about a mile south of 
his village, and when we entered among the hills we found 
the ford of the Kafue. On parting with Semalcmbue 1 
put on him a shirt, and he went away with it apparently 
OLuch delighted. 

The ford was at least 250 yards broad, but rocky and 
ihallow. After crossing it in a canoe, we w^ent along the 
left bank, and were comjyletely shut in by high hills. 

Semalcmbue intended that we should go a little to the 
northeast, and pass through the people called Babimpe, and 
we saw some of that people, who invited us to come that 
way on account of its being smoother; but, feeling anxioiui 



I 

i 



BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 359 

to gel back to the Zambesi agaiii; we decided to cross the 
hiJls toward its confluence with the Kafiie. The distance, 
which in a straight line is but small, occupied three days. 
The precipitous nature of the sides of this mass of hills 
knocked up the oxen and forced us to slaughter two, ono 
of which — a very large one, and ornamented with upward 
of thirty pieces of its own skin detached and hanging 
down — Sekeletu had wished us to take to the white people 
an a specimen of his cattle. We saw many elephants among 
the hills, and my men ran off and killed three. When we 
came to the top of the outer range of the hills, ayc had a 
glorious view. At a short distance below us we saw the 
Kafue, wending away over a forest-clad plain to the con- 
fluence, and on the other side of the Zambesi, beyond that, 
lay a long range of dark hills. A line of fleecy clouds 
appeared lying along the course of that river at their base. 
The plain below us, at the left of the Kafue, had more largo 
game on it than anywhere else I had seen in Africa. 
Hundreds of buffaloes and zebras grazed on the open spaces, 
and there stood lordly elephants feeding majestically, 
nothing moving apparently but the proboscis. I wished 
that 1 had been able to take a photograph of a scene so 
seldom 1 eheld, and which is destined, as gun? \nci'ease, to 
pass away from earth. When we descended, ive found all 
the animals remarkably tame. The clejohants stood beneath 
the trees, fanning themselves with their large ears, as if 
they did not see us at 200 or 300 yards' distance. The 
number of animals was quite astonishing, and made mo 
think that here I could realize an image of that time when 
Megatheria fed undisturbed in the primeval forests, 

We tried to leave one morning, out the rain, coming on 
Afresh, brought us to a stand, and after waiting an hour, 
wet to the skin, we were fain to retrace our steps to oui 
^heds. These rains were from the east, and the clouds 
aaight be seen on the hills exactly as the '^ Table-cloth" on 
Tabio Mountain. This was the flrst wetting we had got 
aince we left Sesheke, for I had gained some cxpericnco id 



4 

360 IMPiJOVED HEALTH : THE REASON. 

travelling. Tn Londa we braved the rain, and, as I despised 
being carried in our frequent passage through running 
water, I was pretty constantly drenched; but now, when 
we saw a storm coming, we invariably halted. The men 
§oon pulled grass sufficient to make a little shelter for 
themselves by placing it on a bush, and, having got my 
camp-stool and umbrella, with a little grass under my feet, 
I kept myself perfectly dr}". We also lighted large fires, 
and the men were not chilled by streams of w^ater running 
down their persons and abstracting the heat, as they would 
have been had they been exposed to the rain. When it 
was over they warmed themselves by the fires, and we 
travelled on comfortably. The effect of this care was that 
we had much less sickness than with a smaller party in 
journeying to Loanda. Another improvement made from 
my experience was avoiding an entire change of diet. In 
going to Loanda I took little or no European food, in order 
not to burden my men and make thern lose spirit, but 
trusted entirely to what might be got by the gun and the 
Uberality of the Balonda; but on this journey I took some 
flour which had been left in the wagon, with some got on 
the island, and baked my own bread all the way in an ex- 
temporaneous oven made by an inverted pot. AV th these 
precautions, aided, no doubt, by. the greater healthiness 
of the district over which we passed, I enjoyed perfect 
health. 

When we left the Chipongo on the 30th, we passed among 
the range of hills on our left, which are composed of mica 
and clay slate. At the bottom we found a forest of largo 
Hil'c'ified trees, all lying as if the elevation of the range had 
"made them fall away from it and toward the river. The 
numbers of large game were quite astonishing. I never 
saw elephants so tame as those near the Chiponga : they 
stood close to our path without being the least afraid. 
This is different from their conduct where they have been 
accustomed to guns, for there they take alarm at the dis- 
tance of a mile, and begin to run if a shot is fired even at 



CHARGE OP AN ELEPHANT. 3(5 J 

a longer distance. My men killed another Lere, and re« 
warded the villagers of the Chiponga for their liberality in 
meal by loading them with flesh. We spent a night at a 
baobab; which was hollow and would hold twenty men 
inside. It had been used as a lodging-house by the Babisa. 
As wo approached nearer the Zambesi, the country became 
covered with broad-leaved bushes, pretty thickly planted, 
and we had several times to shout to elephants to get out 
of our way. At an open space, a herd of buffaloes camo 
trotting up to look at our oxen ; and it was only by shooting 
one that I made them retreat. The meat is very much like 
that of an ox. and this one was very fine. The only danger* 
we actually encountered was from a female elephant, wiih 
three young ones of different sizes. Charging through the 
centre of our extended line, and causino; the men to throw 
down their burdens in a great hurry, she received a spear 
for her temerity. I never saw an elephant with more 
than one calf before. We knew that we were near our 
Zambesi again, even before the great river burst upon our 
sight, by the numbers of waterfowl we met. I killed 
four geese with two shots, and, had I followed the wishes 
of my men, could have secured a meal of waterfowl for 
the whole party. I never saw a river with so much animal 
life around and in it, and, as the Barotse say, ^' Its fish and 
fowl are always fat.'' When our eyes Avere gladdened by a 
view of its goodly broad waters, we found it very much 
larger than it is even above the falls. One might try to 
make his voice heard across it in vain. Its flow was more 
rapid than near Sesheke, being often four and a half milce 
an hour; and, what I never saw before, the water was dis- 
colored and of a deep brownish red. In the great valley 
the Leeambye never becomes of this color. The adjacent 
countr}^, so far north as is known, is all level, and the soil, 
being generally covered with dense herbage, is not abraded* 
but on the eastern ridge the case is different : the grass if 
short, and, the elevation being great, the soil is washed 
down by the streams, and hence the discoloration which 

31 



362 THE ZAMBESI — ISLANB OF MENYE. 

we new view. The same thing was observed on the western 
ridi^e. AYe never saw discoloration till we reached the 
Quango : that obtained its matter from the western slope 
of the western ridge, just as this part of the Zambesi 
receives its soil from the eastern slope of the eastern ridge. 
It carried a considerable quantity of wreck of reeds, sticks, 
and trees. We struck upon the river about eight miles east 
of the confluence with the Kafue, and thereby missed a 
sight of that interesting point. The cloudiness of tho 
weather ^vas such that but few observations could be made 
for determining our position; so, pursuing our course, wo 
wen^t down the left bank, and came opposite the island of 
Menyo makaba. The Zambesi contains numerous islands: 
this was about a mile and a half or two miles long and up- 
ward of a quarter of a mile broad. Besides human popu- 
lation, it has a herd of buffaloes that never leave it. In 
the distance they seemed to be upward of sixty. The 
.'luman and brute inhabitants understand each other; for 
when the former think they ought to avenge the liberties 
committed on their gardens, the leaders of the latter come 
out boldly to give battle. They told us that the only time 
m which they can thin them is when the river is full and 
part of the island flooded. They then attack them from 
their canoes. The comparatively small space to which 
they have confined themselves shows how luxuriant the 
vegetation of this region is ; for were they in want of more 
pasture, as bufl'aloes can swim well, and the distance from 
this bank to the island is not much more than 200 yards, 
ihey might easily remove hither. The opposite bank is 
Qiuch more distant. 

Ranges of hills appear now to run parallel with tho 
Zambesi, and are about fifteen miles apart. Those on the 
north approa( ti nearest to the river. The inhabitants en 
that side are the Batonga, those en the south bank arc 
the Banyai. The hills abound in luftaloes, and elephants 
are numerous; and many are killed by the people on 
both banks. They erect stages on high trees overhang' 



DEVICES FOR KILLING GAME. 363 

ing the paths by which the elephants come, and then use 
a large spear with a handle nearly as thick as a man's 
wiist, and four or five feet long. When the aiiimal 
cOiFies beneath they throw the spear, and if it enters be* 
t^ een the ribs above, as the blade is at least twenty inches 
long by two broad, the motion of the handle, as it is aided 
by knocking against the trees, makes frightful gashes 
Within and soon causes death. They kill them also by 
means of a «?pear inserted in a beam of wood, which being 
suspended on a branch of a tree by a cord attached to a 
latch fastened in the path and intended to be struck by 
tJie animal's foot, leads to the fall of the beam, and, the 
spear being poisoned, causes death in a few hours. 

We were detained by continuous rains several days at 
this island. The clouds rested upon the tops of the hills as 
they came from the eastward, and then poured down plen- 
teous showers on the valleys below. As soon as we could 
move, Tomba Nyama, the head-man of the island, volun- 
teered the loan of a canoe to cross a small river, called 
the Chongwe, which we found to be about fifty or sixty 
yards broad and flooded. All this part of the country was 
well known to Sekwebu; and he informed us that, when 
he passed through it as a boy, the inhabitants possessed 
abundance of cattle and there were no tsetse. The exist- 
ence of the insect now shows that it may return in com- 
pany with the larger game. The vegetation along the 
bank was exceedingly rank, and the bushes so tangled that 
it was difficult to got on. The paths had been made by the 
wild animals alone, for the general pathway of the people 
is the river, in their canoes. We usually followed the foot- 
p4i,ths of the game; and of these there was no lack. Buf- 
faloes, zebras, pallahs, and waterbucks abound ; and there 
is also a great abundance of wild pigs, koodoos, and the 
black antelope. We got one buffalo as he was rolling him- 
self in a pool of mud. He had a large piece of skin tore 
out of his flank, it was believed, by an alligator. 

We were struck by lh3 fact that, as soon as wo camf 



364 AN ALBINO MURDERED BY HIS MUTIIER. 

between tlie ranges of hills which flank tlie Zambesi^ the 
rains felt warm. At sunrise the thermometer stood at from 
82^ to 86° ; at mid-day in the coolest shade, namely, in my 
little tent under a shady tree, at 96° to 98°; and at sunset 
it 13 86°. This is different from any thing we experienced 
in the interior; for these rains always bring down the mer- 
cury to 72° or even 68°. There, too, we found a small, 
black coleopterous insect, which stung like the mosquito 
but injected less poison : it puts us in mind of that insect, 
which does not exist in the high lands we had left. 

January 6, 1856. — Each village we passed furnished ua 
with a couple of men to take us on to the next. They 
were useful in showing us the parts least covered with 
jungle. When we came near a village, we saw men, 
women, and children employed in weeding their gardens^ 
they being great agriculturists. Most of the men are 
muscular, and have large ploughman-hands. Their color 
is the same admixture — from very dark to light olive — 
that we saw in Londa. Though all have thick lips and 
flat noses, only the more degraded of the population pos- 
sess the ugly negro physiognomy. They mark themselves 
by a line of little raised cicatrices, each of which is a quar- 
ter of an inch long : they extend from the tip of the nose 
to the root of the hair on the forehead. It is remarkable 
that I never met with an albino in crossing Africa, 
though, from accounts published by the Portugues'^, I wa? 
led to expect that they were held in favor as doctors by 
certain chiefs. I saw several in the south : one at Kuru 
man is a full-grown woman, and a man having this pecu 
liarily of skin was met with in the colony. Their bodie.y 
are always blistered on exposure to the sun, as the skiu 
is more lender than that of the blacks. The Ki nimar. 
woman lived some time at Kolobeng, and generally had on 
her bosom and shoulders the remains of large b isters. 
She was most anxious to be made black; but nitrate of 
silver, taken internally, did not produce its usual effect 
During the time I resided at Mabotsa^ a woman came to 



"TLOLO." ^^t>6 

the station with a fine boy, an albino. The father had 
ordered her to throw him away; but slie clung to hci 
offspring for many years. He was remarkably intolligont 
for his age. The pupil of the eye was of a pink color, and 
the eye itself was unsteady in visioii. The hair, or vathei 
wool, was yellow, and the features were those common 
among the Becbuanas. After I left the place, the moihoi 
is said to have become tired of living apart from the father, 
who refused to have her while she retained the son. She 
took him out one day and killed him close to the village of 
Mabotsa, and nothing was done to her by the authorities. 
From having met with no albinos in Londa, I suspect they 
are there also put to death. We saw one dwarf only in 
Londa, and brands on him showed he hiA once been o 
slave; and there is one dwarf woman at Linyanti. The 
general absence of deformed persons is partly owing to 
their destruction in infancy, and partly to the mode of life 
being a natural one so fiir as ventilation and food are con- 
cerned. They use but few unwholesome mixtures as con« 
diments, and, though their undress exposes them to the 
vicissitudes of the temperature, it does not harbor vomites. 
It was observed that, when smallpox and measles visited 
the country, they were most severe on the half-castes who 
were clothed. In several tribes, a child which is said to 
'Hlola" (transgress) is put to death. " Tlolo,'' or trans- 
gression, is ascribed to several curious cases. A child who 
cut the upper front teeth before the under was always put 
to death among the Bakaa, and, I believe, also among the 
Bakwains. In some tribes, a case of twins renders one of 
them liable to death; and an ox which, while lying in tho 
oen, beats the ground with its tail, is treated in the same 
way. It is thought to be calling death to visit the tribe. 
When I was coming through Londa, my men carried a 
great number of fowls, of a larger breed than any they 
had at home. If one crowed before midnight, it had been 
guilty of ^nlolo," and Avas killed. The men often carried 
^iiem sitting on their guns, and, if one began to crow in a 

31* 



366 II>EA OF FEMALE BEAUTY. 

forest, the owner would give it a beating, by way of teacb 
iiig it not to be guilty of crowing at unseasonable hours. 

The women here are in the habit of piercing the uppejf 
lip and gradually enlarging the orifice until they can ingert 
ft shell. The lip then appears drawn out beyond the per- 
pendicular of the nose, and gives them a most ungainly 
aspect. Sekwebu remarked, " These women want to make 
the/r mouths like those of ducks;" and, indeed, it does 
appear as if they had the idea that female beauty of lip 
had been attained by the Ornithorhynchus paradoxus alone. 
This custom prevails throughout the countrj'' of the Maravi, 
and no one could see it without confessing that fashion had 
never led women to a freak more mad. Wc had rains now 
every d?y, and considerable cloudiness; but the sun often 
burst through with scorching intensity. All call out against 
it then, saying, " Oh, the sun •! that is rain again." It is 
worth noticing that my companions never complained of 
the heat while on the highlands; but when we descended 
into the lowlands of Angola, and here also, they began to 
fret on account of it. I myself felt an oppressive steami- 
ness in the atmosphere which I had not experienced an 
the higher lands. 

As the game was abundant and my party very large, I 
had still to supply their wants with the gun. We slaugh- 
tered the oxen only when unsuccessful in hunting. We 
always entered into friendly relations with the head-men 
of the different villages, and they presented grain and other 
food freely. One man gave a basinful of rice, — the first 
we met with in the country. It is never seen in the in- 
terior. He said he knew it was " white man's corn/' and, 
when I wished to buy some more, he asked me to give him 
ft slave. This was the first symptom of the slave-trade on 
this side of the country. The last of these friendly head 
men was named Mobala ; and, having passed him in peace, 
we had no anticipation of any thing else ; but after a few 
hours we reached Selole or Chilole, and found that he not 
onlj considered us enemies, but had actually sent an ox- 



gELOLE'S HOSTILITY. 367 

press to rti.sc the tribe of Mburuma against lis. All the 
women i f Selole had fled, and the few people we met ex- 
hibited 1 igns of terror. An armed party had come from 
Mburumi in obedience to the call; but the head-man of 
the com] any^ being Mburuma's brother, suspecting that it 
was ahoi.x, came to our encampment and told us the whole. 
Wlien wt explained our objects, he told us that Mburuma, he 
had no doubt, would receive us well. The reason why Se- 
lole acted in this foolish manner we afterward found to be 
this: an Italian named Simoens, and nicknamed Siriatomba, 
(don't cat tobacco,) had married the daughter of a chief 
called Sckokole, living north of Tete. He armed a party 
of fifty slaves with guns, and, ascending the river in canoes 
some distance beyond the island Meya makaba, attacked 
6evera\ inhabited islands beyond, securing a large number 
of prisoners and much ivory. On his return, the different 
chiefs — at the instigation of his father-in-law, who also did 
not wish him to set up as chief — united, attacked and dis- 
persed the party of Simoens, and killed him while trj'ing 
to escape on foot. Selole imagined that I was anothei 
Italian, or, as he expressed it, '^ Siriatomba risen from the 
dead." In his message to Mburuma he ever; said that 
Mobala, and all the villages beyond, were utterly destroyed 
by our fire-arms; but the sight of Mobala himself, who had 
come to the village of Selole, led the brother of Mburuma 
to see at once that it was all a hoax. * But for this the 
foolish fellow Selole might have given us trouble. 

We saw many of the liberated captives of this Italian 
among the villages here, and Sekwebu found them to he 
Matebcle. The brother of Mburuma had a gun, which was 
whe first we had seen in coming eastward. Before we 
reached Mburuma, my men went to attack a troop of ele- 
phants, as they were much in need of meat. When the 
troop began to run, one of them fell into a hole, and before 
he could extricate himself an opportunity was afforded foi 
all the men to throw their spears. When he rose he was 
lit e a huge porcupine, for each of the seventy or eighty men 



J68 elephants' tenacity of life. 

haa discharged more than one spear at him. As they had no 
more, they sent for me to finish him. In order to put him 
at once out of pain, I went to within twenty yards, there 
being a bank between us which he 30uld not readily climb. 
1 rested the gun upon an ant-hill, so as to take a steady 
aim; but, though I fired twelve two-ounce bullets (all I 
had) into different parts, 1 could not kill him. As it was 
becoming dark, I advised my men to let him stand, being 
&ure of finding him dead in the morning; but, though ayo 
searched all the next day, and went more than ten miles, 
we never saw him again. ^1 mention this to young men 
who may think that they will be able to hunt elephants 
on foot by adopting the Ceylon practice of killing them 
by one ball in the brain. I believe that in Africa the 
practice of standing before an elephant, expecting to kill 
bim with one shot, would be certain death to the hunter ; 
and I would add for the information of those who may 
think that, because I met with a great abundance of game 
here, they also might find rare sport, that the tsetse exists 
all along both banks of the Zambesi, and there can be no 
hunting by means of horses. Hunting on foot in this climate 
is such excessively hard work that I feel certain the keenest 
sportsman would very soon turn away from it in disgust. 
I myself was rather glad, when furnished with the excuse 
that I had no longer any balls, to hand over all the hunting 
to my men, who had no more love for the sport than myself, 
as they never engaged in it except when forced by hunger. 
Some of them gave me a hint to melt down my plate by 
asking if it were not lead. I had two pewter plates and a 
piece of zinc, which I now melted into bullets. I also spent 
the remainder of my handkerchiefs in buying spears for 
them. My men frequently surrounded herds of buffaloes 
and killed numbers of the calves. 1, too, exerted myself 
greatly; but, as i am now obliged to shoot with the left 
arm, I am a bad shot, and this, with the lightness of the 
bullets, made me very unsuccessful. The more the hunger, 
the less my succ<3ss, invariably 



^1 



MR. OSWELL's narrow ESCAPE. 3bP 

1 may here add an adventure with an elephant of one 
who has had more narrow escapes than any man livings 
but whose modesty has always prevented him from publish- 
ing any thing about himself. When we were on the banks 3f 
the Zouga in 1850^ Mr. Oswell pursued one of these animals 
into the dense, thick, thorny bushes met with on the margin 
of that river, and to which the elephant usually flees foi 
safety. He followed through a narrow pathway by lifting 
up some of the branches and forcing his way through the 
rest; but, when he had just got over this difficulty, he saw 
the elephant, whose tail he had but got glimpses of before, 
now rushing toward him. There was then no time to lift uj) 
branches; so he tried to force the horse through them. IIo 
could not effect a passage; and^ as there was but an instant 
between the attempt and failure, the hunter tried to dis- 
mount, but in doing this one foot was caught by a branch, 
and the spur drawn along the animal's flank; this made 
him spring away and throw the rider on the ground with 
his face to the elephant, which, being in full chase, still 
went on. Mr. Oswell saw the huge fore-foot about to de- 
scend on his legs, parted them, and drew in his breath as 
if to resist the pressure of the other foot, which he expected 
would next descend on his hody. He saw the whole 
length of the under part of the enormous brute pass over 
him : the horse got away safely. I have heard of but one 
other authentic instance in which an elephant went over a 
man without injury, and, for any one who knows the nature 
of the bush in which this occurred, the very thought of an 
encounter in it with such a foe is apj)alting. As the thorna 
arc placed in pairs on opposite sides of the branches, and 
Ihese turn round on being pressed against, one pair brings 
the other exactly into the position in which it must pierce 
Ihe intruder. They cut like knives. Horses dread this 
bush extremely; indeed, most of them refuse to face ita 
thorns. 

On reacning Mburuma's village, his brother came to 
moct us. Wo explained the reason of our delay, and he 



370 mburuma's village and people. 

told us that we were looked upon with alarm. He said 
that Siriatomba had been killed near the village of Selole 
and hence that man's fears. He added that the Italian had 
come talking of peace, as we did, but had kidnapped chil- 
dren and bought ivory with them, and that we were sup- 
posed to be following the same calling. I pointed to my 
men, and asked if any of these were slaves, and if we had 
any children among them, and I think we satisfied him that 
we were true men. Eeferring to our ill success in hunting 
the day before, he said, "The man at whose village you 
remained was in fault in allowing you to want meat, for he 
had only to run across to Mburuma; he would have give a 
him a little meal, and, having pprinkled that on the ground 
as an oifcring to the gods, you would have found your 
elephant." The chiefs in these parts take upon themselves 
an office somewhat like the priesthood, and the peo]»lo 
Imagine that they can propitiate the Deity through them 
in illustration of their ideas, it may be mentioned that, 
when we were among the tribes west of Semalembue, 
several of the people came forward and introduced thorn 
selves, — one as a hunter of elephants, another as a hunter 
of hippopotami, a third as a digger of pitfalls, — apparently 
wishing me to give them medicine for success in theii 
avocations, as well as to cure the diseases of those to 
whom I was administering the drugs. I thought they at- 
tributed supernatural power to them, for, like all Africans, 
ihey have unbounded faith in the efficacy of charms; 
but I took pains to let them know that they must pray 
and trust to another power than mine for aid. We nevei 
saw Mburuma himself, and the conduct of his people indi 
cated very strong suspicions, though he gave us presents 
cf moal, maize, and native corn. His people never came 
tear us except in large bodies and fully armed. "VYo had 
to order them to place their bows, arrows, and spears a\ 
a distance before -mtering our encampment. We did not^ 
however, care much for a little trouble now, as we hoped 
that, if we could pass this t'rae without much raolestatico 



SUSPmONS OJ THE NAriVES. '37) 

w© might yet be able to return with ease, and without 
meeting sour, suspicious looks. 

Mburuma sent two men as guides to the Loangwa. Thes* 
men tried to bring us to a stand, at a distance of about six 
miled from the village, by the notice, "Mburuma says yea 
are to sleep under that tree." On declining to do this, we 
were told that we must wait at a certain village for a suj*» 
ply of corn. As none appeared in an hour, I proceeded ou 
the march. It is not quite certain that their intentions 
were hostile; but this seemed to disarrange their plans, and 
one of them was soon observed running back to Mburuma. 
They had first of all tried to separate our party by volun- 
teering the loan of a canoe to convey Sekwebu and me, 
together with our luggage, by way of the river, and, as it 
was pressed upon us, I thought that this was their design, 
The next attempt was to detain us in the pass ; but, be- 
traying no suspicion, we civilly declined to place ourselves 
in their power in an unfavorable position. We afterward 
heard that a party of Babisa traders, who came from th<j 
northeast, bringing English goods from Mozambique, had 
been plundered by this same people. 

At the village of Ma Mburuma, (mother of Mburuma,) the 
guides, who had again joined us, gave a favorable report; 
and the women and children did not flee. Ma Mburuma 
promised us canoes to cross the Loangwa in our front. It 
was pleasant to see great numbers of men, women, and 
boys come, without suspicion, to look at the books, watch, 
looking-glass, revolver, &c. They are a strong, mLsculai 
race, and both men and women are seen cultivating tho 
ground. 

We were obliged to hurry along, for the oxen were bitten 
daily by the tsetse, which, as I have before remarked, now 
inhabits extensive tracts which once supported herds oi 
cattle that were swept off by Mpakano and other marau- 
ders, whose devastations were well known to Sekwebu, foi 
he himself had been an actor in tho scenes. When ho told 
me ot* them he always lowered his voice, in order that tht 



372 HOSTILE APPEARANCES. 

aiides miccht not hear that he had been one of their ene- 
mies. Eut that we were looked upon with suspicion, oe 
accoun?) of having come in the footsteps of invaders, was 
evident from our guides remarking to men in the garde D9 
throui^h which we passed, "They have words of peace- 
all very fine; but lies only, as the Bazunga are great liars." 
They thought we did not understand them ; but Sekweba 
knew every word perfectly; and, without paying any 
ostensible attention to these complimentary remarks, we 
always took care to explain ever afterward that we were 
* Rot Bazunga, but Makoa, (English.) 



CHAPTEE XXIX. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE DESCENDS THE ZAMBESI TO CHICOVA. 

14fA. — ^We reached the confluence of the Loangwa and 
the Zambesi, most thankful to God for his great mercies in 
helping us thus far. Mburuma's people had behaved so 
suspiciously, that, though we had guides from him, we 
were by no means sure that we should not be attacked 
in crossing the Loangwa. We saw them here collecting 
in large numbers, and, though professing friendship, they 
kept at a distance from our camp. They refused to lend 
us more canoes than two, though they have many. They 
have no intercourse with Europeans except through the 
Babisa. They tell us that this was formerly the residence 
of the Bazunga, and maintain silence as to the cause of 
their leaving it. I walked about some ruins I discovered, 
built of stone, and found the remains of a church, and on 
one side lay a broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a 
cross, but no date. There were no inscrix^tions on stone, 
and the people could not tell what tho Bazunga called 
their place. Wo found afterward U v^ub Zumbo. 



CROSSING THE LOANGWA. 37|j 

1 felt seme turmoil of spirit in the evening at the pros- 
pect of hiiving all my eiforts for the welfare of this great 
region and its teeming population knocked on the head by 
savages to-morrow, who might be said to " know not what 
they do/' It seemed such a pity that the important fact 
of the existence of the two healthy ridges which I had dl«*- 
coTcred should not become known in Christendom, for a 
confirmation would thereby have been given to the idea 
that Africa is not open to 'the gospel. But I read that 
Jesus said, ^^All power is given unto me in heaven and on 
earth: go ye, therefore, and teach all nations; . . . and lo, 
I am with you alway, even unto the end of the world J' I took 
this as His word of honor, and went out to take observa^ 
tions for latitude and longitude, which, I think, were very 
successful. (The church : kt. 15° 37' 22" S., long. 30^ 
W E.) 

Ibth. — The natives of the surrounding country collected 
around us this morning, all armed. The women and chil- 
dren were sent away, and one of Mburuma's wives, who 
lives in the vicinity, was not alloAved to approach, thoug^i 
she had come from her village to pay me a visit. Only one 
eanoe was lent to us, though we saw two others tied to the 
Dank. The part we crossed was about a mile from the 
confluence, and, as it was now flooded, it seemea upward 
of half a mile in breadth. We passed all our goods first on 
to an island in the middle, then the remaining cattle and 
men ; occupying the post of honor, I, as usual, was tho 
last to enter the canoe. A number of the inhabitants 
«tood armed all the time we were embarking. I showed 
them my watch, lens, and other things to keep them 
aiuused, until there only remained those who were to enter 
the canoe with me. I thanked them for their kindness, 
and wished them peace. After all, they may have been 
influenced only by the intention to be ready in case I 
should play them some false trick, for they have reason to 
be distrustful of the whites. The guides came over to bid 

38 flxlieu, and we sat under a mango-tree fifteen feet 'n cir 

22 



874 SITUATION OP ZUMBO. 

ciimferenco. Wo found them more comrauiiicative now 
They said that the land on both sides belonged to the 
Bazunga, and that they had ioft of old, on the approach of 
Changamera, Ngaba, and Mpakane. Sekwebu was with 
the last-named, but he maintained that they never came in 
the confluence, though they carried off all the cattle of 
Mburuma. The guides confirmed this by saying that tho 
Bazunga were not attacked, but fled in alarm on th« 
approach of the enemy. This mango-tree he knew by its 
proper name, and we found seven others and seveial tama- 
rinds, and were informed that the chief Mburuma sends 
men annually to gathei the fruit, but, like many Africans 
whom I have known, nas not had patience to propagate 
more trees. I gave them some little presents for them- 
Belves, a handkerchief and a few beads; and they wern 
highly pleased with a cloth of red baize for Mburuma, 
which Sekeletu had given me to purchase a eanoe. Wo 
were thankful to part good friends. 

The situation of Zumbo was^ admirably well chosen as a 
eilte for commerce. Looking backward, we see a mass of 
high, dark mountains covered with trees; behind us rises 
the fine high hill Mazanzwe. which stretches away north 
ward along the left bank of the Loangwa ; to the S.E. lies 
an open country, with a small round hill in the distance 
called Tofulo The merchants, as they sat beneath the 
verandahs in front of their houses, had a magnificent view 
of the two rivers at their confluence, of their church at 
the angle, and of all the gardens which they had on both 
aides of the rivers. In these they cultivated wheat with- 
out irrigation, and, as the Portuguese assert, of a graio 
twice the size of that at Tcte. From the guides we learned 
that the inhabitants had not imbibed much idea of Chris 
tianity, for they used the same term for the church- boll 
which they did for a diviner's drum. From this point the 
merchants had water-communication in three directions 
beyond, namel}', from the Loangwa to the N.N.W., by xha 
Kafuc to the W , ard by the Zambes: to tho S W. Thca 



lacerda's visit to oazembe. 375 

aitention, however, was chiefly attracted to the N., or 
Londaj and the principal articles of trade were ivoi-y 
and slaves. Private enterprise was always restrained, for, 
the colonies of the Portuguese being strictly military, and 
the pay of the commandants being very small, the officers 
have always been obliged to engage in trade ; and had they 
not employed their power to draw the trade to thcmselvea 
by preventing private traders from making bargains be- 
yond the villages, and only at regulated prices, they would 
have had no trade, as the}' themselves were obliged tc 
remain always at their postfl. 

Several expeditions went to the north as far as to Oa- 
cembe, and Dr. Lacerda, himself commandant of Teto, 
went to that chief's resideLce. Unfortunately, he was cut 
off while there, and his papers, taken possession of by a 
Jesuit who accompanied him, were lost to the world. This 
Jesuit probably intended to act fairly and have them pub- 
lished; but soon after his return he was called away by 
death himself, and the papers were lost sight of. Dr. La- 
cerda had a strong desire to open up communication with 
Angola, which would have been of importance then, as 
affording a^peedier mode of communication with Portugal 
than by the way of the Cape; but since the opening of the 
overland passage to India a quicker transit is effected from 
Eastern Africa to Lisbon by way of the Ked Sea. Besides 
Lacerda, Cazembe was visited by Pereira, who gave a 
glowing account of that chief's power, which none of my 
inquiries have confirmed. The people of Matiamvo stated 
to me that Cazembe was a vassal of their chief; and, from 
all the native visitors whom I have seen, he appears to be 
exactly like Shinte and Katema, only a little more power- 
ftil. The term ^'Emperor," which has been applied to him, 
seems totally inappropriate. The statement of Peieira 
that twenty negroes were slaughtered in a day was no! 
confirmed by any one else, thouirh numbers may have been 
kille<l on some particular occasion- during the time of hi? 
visit, for we find throughout all the country north cyf 20® 



576 A MAN TOSSED BY A BUFFALO. 

.which I consider to be real negro, the custom of slaug ater^ 
lug victims to accompany the departed soul of a chief; and 
himiar sacrifices are occasionally offered, and certain parts 
of tiie bodies ai'e used as charms. It is on account of the 
existence of such riles, with the similarity of the language^ 
and the fact that the names of rivers are repealed again 
and again from north to south through all that region, tha"! 
I consider them tc have been originally one family. The 
last expedition to Cazembe was somewhat of the sam» 
nature as the others, and failed in establishins: a commerce 
because the people of Cazembe, who had come to Tete to 
invite the Portuguese to visit them, had not been allowed 
to trade with w^hom thej^ might. As it had not been free 
trade there, Cazembe did not see why it should be free 
trade at his town: he accordingly would not allow hia 
people to furnish the party with food except at his price; 
and the expedition, being half starved in consequencej 
came away voting unanimously that Cazembe was a great 
bore. 

When we left the Loangwa, we thought we had got rid of 
the hills; but there are some behind Mazanzwe, though five 
or six miles off from the river. Tsetse and the hills had de- 
stroyed two riding-oxen, and, when the little one that I now 
rode knocked up, I was forced to march on foot. The bush 
being very dense and high, we were going along among the 
trees, when three buffaloes, which we had unconsciously 
passed above the wind, thought that they were surrounded 
by men, and dashed through our line. My ox set off at a 
gallop, and when I could manage to glance back I saw cne 
:»f Ihe men up in the air about five feet above a buffal:) 
wluch was tearing along with a stream of blood running 
^\y\\\\ his flank. When I got back to the poor fellow, I 
found that he had lighted on his face, and, though he had 
been carried on the horns of the buffalo about twenty jarda 
before getting the final toss, the skin was not pierced, noi 
was a bone broken. When the beasts appeared, he had 
thrown down his load and stabbed one i» the sfde. It 



I 



CATFRE WAR 379 

turned suddenly upon him, and, before he could use a tree 
for defence, carried him off. "We shampooed him well, and 
then went on, and in about a week he was able to engage 
in the hunt again. 

On the movning of the 17th we were pleased to see a 
person coming from the island of Shibanga with jacket arid 
hat on. He was quite black, but had come from the Portu- 
guese settlement at Tete or I^jungwe ; and now, for the 
first time, we understood that the Portuguese settlement 
was on the other bank of the river, and that they had been 
fighting with the natives for the last two years. We had 
thus got into the midst of a Caffre war, without any par- 
ticular wish to be on either side. He advised us to cross 
the river at once, as Mpende lived on this side. We had 
been warned by the guides of Mburuma against him, for 
they said that if we could get past Mpende we might reach 
the white men, but that he was determined that no white 
man should pass him. Wishing to follow this man's advice, 
we proposed to borrow his canoes; but, being afraid to 
offend the lords of the river, he declined. The consequence 
was, we were obliged to remain on the enemy's side. The 
next island belonged to a man named Zungo, a fine, frank 
fellow, who brought us at once a present of corn, bound in 
a peculiar way in grass. He freely accepted our apology 
for having no present to give in return, as he knew 
that there were no goods in the interior, and, besides, 
sent forward a recommendation to his brother-in-law 
Pangola. 

ISth. — ^Pangola visited us and presented us with food. 
[n few other countries would one hundred and fourteen 
sturdy vagabonds be supported by the generosity of the 
head-men and villagers and whatever they gave be jiro- 
sented with politeness. My men got pretty well supplied 
individually, for they went into the villages and com- 
menced dancing. The young women were especially 
pleased with the new steps they had to show, though i 
suspect many of them were invented for the occasion, and 



380 APPROACHING MPENDE's ^^ILLA<3E. 

would eay, ''Dance for me, and I will grind cora for you " 
At every fresh instance of liberality, Sekwebu said, '< Did 
not I tell you that these people had hearts, while we were 
still at Linyanti V' All agreed that the character he had 
given w^as true, and some remarked, ''Look! although we 
have been so long away from home, not one of us has 
become lean.'^ It was a fact that we had been all well 
supplied either with meat by my gun or their own spears, 
or food from the great generosity of the inhabitanta. 
Pangola promised to ferry us across the Zambesi, but 
failed to fulfil his promise. He seemed to wish to avoid 
offending his neighbor Mpende by aiding us to escape from 
his hands; so we proceeded along the bank. Although w(! 
were in doubt as to our reception by Mpende, I could not 
help admiring the beautiful coi:itry as we passed along. 
Finding no one willing to aid us in crossing the river, wo 
proceeded to the village of the chief Mpende. When wo 
came to Mpende's village, he immediately sent to inquire 
who we were, and then ordered the guides who had como 
with us from the last village to go back and call their 
masters. He sent no message to us whatever. We had 
travelled very slowly up to this point, the tsetse-stricken 
oxen being now unable to go two miles an hour. We 
were also delayed by being obliged to stop at every village 
and send notice of our approach to the head-man, who 
came and received a little information and gave some foo(^ 
If we had passed on without taking any notice of them, 
they would have considered it impolite, and we should 
have appeared more as enemies than friends. I consoled 
myself for the loss of time b}^ the thought that these con- 
versations tended to the opening of our future path. 

23<i. — This morning, at sunrise, a party of Mpende's 
people came close to our encampment, uttering strange criee 
and waving some bright-red substance toward us. They 
then lighted a fire with charms in it, and departed, utter 
ing the same hideous screams as before. This was intended 
to render us powerless, and probably also to frighten us 



^1 



A FIGHT ANTICIPATED. 081 

Ever since dawn, parties of armed men have been seen 
co]le(}ting from all quarters^ and numbers passed us while 
it was yet dark. Had we moved down the river at once, 
it would have been considered an indication of fear cr 
defiance, and so would a retreat. I therefore resolved to 
wait, trusting to Him who has the hearts of all men in 
Ms hands. They evidently intended to attack us, for no 
friendly message was sent; and, when three of the Batoka 
the night before entered the village to beg food, a man 
went round about each of them, making a noise like a lion 
The villagers then called upon them to do homage, and, 
when they complied, the chief ordered some chaff to bo 
given them, as if it had been food. Othej things also 
showed unmistakable hostility. As we were now pretty 
certain of a skirmish, I ordered an ox to be slaughtered, 
as this is a means which Sebituane employed for inspiring 
courage. I have no doubt that we should have been vic- 
torious : indeed, my men, who were far better acquainted 
with fighting than any of the people on the Zambesi, were 
rejoicing in the prospect of securing captives to carry the 
tusks for them. " We shall now," said they, '^ get both 
corn and clothes in plenty." They were in a sad state, 
poor fellows ; for the rains we had encountered had made 
their skin-clothing drop off piecemeal, '^nd they were 
looked upon with disgust by the well-fed and well-clothed 
Zambesians. They were, however, veterans in maraud 
ing; and the head-men, instead of being depressed by fear, 
as the people of Mpende intended should be the case in 
using their charms, hinted broadly to me that I ought to 
allow them to keep Mpende's wives. The roasting of meat 
went on fast and furious, and some of the young men said 
to me, ^'You have seen us with elephants, but you don't 
know yet what we can do with men.'' I believe that, 
had Mpende struck the first blow, he would soon have 
found out that ho never made a greater mistake in hia 
life. 
His whob tribe was assembled at about the distance of 



882 mpende's friendship. 

half a mile As the country is covered with trooSj wc did 
not see them; hut every now and then a few came about 
us as spies, and would answer no questions. I handed a 
leg of the ox to two of these, and desired them to take it 
to Mpendo. After waiting a considerable time in suspense 
two old men made their appearance and said they had 
come to inquire who I was. I replied, ^' I am a Lekoa," 
(an Englishman.) They said, ^^ We don't know that tribe. 
We suppose you are a Mozunga, the tribe w^ith which we 
have been fighting." As I was not yet aware that the 
term Mozunga was applied to a Portuguese, and thought 
they meant half-castes, I showed them my hair and the 
skin of my bosom, and asked if the Bazunga had hair and 
skin like mine. As the Portuguese have the custom of 
cutting the hair close, and are also somewhat darker than 
we are, they answered, " No ; we never saw skin so white 
us that,'^ and added, '^ Ah ! you must be one of that tribe 
that loves [literally, has heart to] the black men." I, of 
course, gladly responded in the affirmative. They re- 
turned to the village, and we afterward heard that there 
had been a long discussion between Mpcnde and his coun- 
cillors, and that one oi the men with whom we had re- 
mained to talk the day before had been our advocate. He 
was named Sii^icse Galea. When we were passing hi& 
village, after some conversation, he said to his people, ^' Is 
that the man whom they wish to stop after he has passed 
60 many tribes? What can Mpende say to refusing him a 
passage?" It was owing to this man, and the fact that 1 
belonged to tke ^'friendly white tribe," that Mpenae was 
persuaded to allow us to pass. When we knew the favor- 
able decision of the council, I sent Sekwebu to speak about 
the purchase of a canoe, as one of my men had become 
veiy ill, and T wished to relieve his companions by taking 
bim in a canoe. Before Sekwebu could finish his stoiy, 
Mpendo remarked, "That white man is truly one of oui 
friends. See how he lets me know his afflicuons !" Sek 
webu adroitly took advantage of this turn in the conversa- 



CROSSING THE ZAMBESI. 383 

tion, and said, "Ah ! if you only know him as well as we 
do who have lived with hi,m, you would understund that 
he highly values jour friendship and that of Mburuma, 
and, as he is a stranger, he trusts in you to direct hirn." 
He replied, '^Well, he ought to cross to the other sido 
of the river, for this bank is hilly and rough, and the way 
to Tete 18 longer on this than on the opposite bank." 
" But who will take us across if you do not ?" " Truly," 
replied Mpende, '^ I only wish you had come sooner to tell 
rae about him ; but you shall cross " Mpende said fre- 
quently ho was sorry he had not known me sooner, but 
that he had been prevented by his enchanter from coming 
near me; and he lamented that the same person had kept 
him from eating the meat which I had presented. lie did 
every thing he could afterward to aid us on our course, 
and our departure was as different as possible from our 
approach to his village. I was very much pleased to find 
the English name spoken of with such great respect so 
far from the coast, and most thankful that no collision 
occurred to damage its influence. 

24:th. — Mpende sent two of his principal men to order the 
people of a large island below to ferry us across. The ri\ er 
is very broad, and, though my men were well acquainted 
with the management of canoes, wo could not all cross ovur 
before dark. It is 1200 yards from bank to bank, and be- 
tween 700 and 800 of deep water, flowing at the rate of 
3f miles per hour. "We landed first on an island, then, to 
prevent our friends playing false with us, hauled the 
canoes up to our bivouac and slept in them. The next 
morning we all reached the opposite bank in safety. 

29th. — I was most sincerely thankful to find myself od 
the south bank of the Zambesi ; and, having nothing else, I 
nent back one of my two spoons and a shirt as a thank- 
offering to Mpende. The different head-men along this 
river act very much in concert, and if one refuses passage 
they all do, uttering the sage remark, " If so-and-so did not 
lend his canoes, ho must have had some gcod reason." The 



584 boroma's village. 

next island we came to was that of a man named Mozinkwa 
Ilere we were detained some djiys by continuous rains. 

We w^eie detained here so long that my tent beoajne 
again quite rotten. One of my men, after long sickness, 
which 1 did not understand, died here. He was one of the 
Batoka, and when unable to walk I had some difficulty in 
making his companions carry him. They wished to leave 
him to die when his case became hopeless. Another of 
them deserted to Mozinkwa. He said that his motive for 
doing so was that the Makololo had killed both his father 
and mother, and, as he had neither wife nor child, there 
was no reason why he should contintie longer with thicm. 
I did not object to his statements, but said if he should 
change his mind he would be welcome to rejoin us, and 
intimated to Mozinkwa that he must not be sold as a slave 

February 1. — We met some native traders ; and, as many 
of my men were now in a state of nudity, I bought some 
American calico, marked ^^ Lawrence Mills, Lowell," witl 
two small tusks, and distributed it among the most needy 
After leaving Mozinkwa's, we came to the Zingesi, a sand- 
rivulet in flood, (lat. 15° 38' 34" S., long. 31° 1' E.) It was 
sixty or seventy yards wide, and waist deep. Like all these 
sand-rivers, it is for the most part dry; but, by digging 
dowm a few feet, water is to be found, which is percolating 
along the bed on a stratum of clay. 

February 4. — ^ye were much detained by rains, a heavy 
shower without wind falling every morning about daybreak : 
it often cleared up after that, admitting of our moving on a 
few miles. A continuous rain of several hours then set in. 

On the 6th we came to the village of Boroma, which is 
situated among a number of others, each surrounded by 
extensive patches of cultivation. On the opposite side of 
the river we have a great cluster of conical hills, called 
Chorichori. Boroma did not make his appearance, but sent 
a substitute, who acted civilly. I s^nt Sekwebu in the 
morning to state that wo intended to move on : his mother 
replied that, ae she had expected that we should remain, no 



A GARRULOUS GUIDE. 1185 

food was ready; but she sent a basket of coi-n and a fowl. Aa 
an excuse wny lioroma did not present himself, she said 
that ho was seized this morning by the Barimo, — which 
probably meant that his lordship was drunk. 

We marched along the river to a point opposite the hill 
Pinkwo, (lat. 15° 39' 11" S., long. 32° 5' E.;) but the lato 
ab:mdant rains now flooded the Zambesi again^ and g)'Qtxi 
quantities of wreck appeared upon the stream. 

This flood having filled the river, we found the numerous 
rivulets which flow into it filled also, and when going alon_j>^ 
the Zambesi we lost so much time in passing up each litthj 
stream till we could find a ford about waist deep, and then 
returning to the bank, that I resolved to leave the river 
altogether and strike away to the southeast. We accord- 
ingly struck off when opposite the hill Pinkwe, and camo 
into a hard Mopane country. 

This Chicova is not a kingdom, as has been stated, but a 
level tract, a part of which is annually overflowed by the 
Zambesi, and is well adapted for the cultivation of corn. 
It is said to be below the northern end of the hill Bungwe. 
I was very much pleased in discovering a small specimen 
of such a precious mineral as coal. I saw no indication of 
silver; and, if it ever was worked by the natives, it is re- 
markable that they have entirely lost the knowledge of it, 
and cannot distinguish between silver and tin. Our path 
lay along the bed of the Nake for some distance, the banks 
being covered with impenetrable thickets. The villages 
are not numerous ; but we went from one to the other, and 
were treated kindly. Here they call themselves Bambiri, 
though the general name of the whole nation is Banyili. 
One of our. guides was an inveterate talker, always stop- 
ping and asking for pay, that he might go on with a merry 
heart. I thought that he led us in the most difficult paths 
in order to make us feel his value, for, after passing through 
one thicket after another, we always came into the bed 
of the Nake again ; and as that w'as full of coarse sand, and 
the water only ankle deep, and as hot as a f')ot hj)th from 



S86 NYAMrUNGO, THE RAIN-CHARMEil. 

the p(»wc7-fu) rays of the sun, we were all completely tirr-d 
out. He likewise gave us a bad character at ever}^ villa^^e 
we passed, calling to them that they were to allow him tc 
lead us astray, as we were a bad set. Sekwebu knew 
every word he said, and, as he became intolerable, I dis- 
missed him, giving him six feet of calico I had bought from 
native traders, and telling him that his tongue was a 
nuisance. It is in general best, when a scolding is neces- 
sary, to give it in combination with a present, and then end 
it by good wishes. This fellow went off smiling; and my 
men remarked, " His tongue is cured now." 

ISth. — The head-man of these parts is named Nyampungo. 
I sent the last fragment of cloth we had, with a request 
that wc should be furnished with a guide to the next chief. 
After a long conference with his council, tho cloth was 
returned with a promise of compliance and a request for 
some beads only. This man is supposed to possess the 
jharm for rain, and other tribes send to bin to beg it. 
This shows that what we inferred before was correct, — that 
less rain falls in this country than in Londa. S'^'ampungo 
behaved in quite a gentlemanly manner, presented me 
with some rice, and told my people to go anvong all the 
villages and beg for themselves. An old man, /ather-in-law 
of the chief, told me that he had seen bookf=- before, but 
never knew what tlicy meant. They pray to departed 
chiefs and relatives, but the idea of prajMng to God seemed 
new, and they heard it with reverence. As this was an 
intelligent old man, I asked him about the siNer; but he 
was as ignorant of it as the rest, and said, " TTo never dug 
silver, but w^e have w^ashed for gold in the sauds of the 
livers Mazoe and Luia, which unite in the Lu^^nya." I 
think that this is quite conclusive on the quesrit^n of no 
sliver having been dug by the natives of this district. 
Nyampungo is afflicted with a kind of disease called Se 
eenda, which I imagine to be a species of leprosy commoL 
in this quarter, — though v hey are a cleanly people. They 
never had cattle. The chives father had always lived iu 



BLEPHA-Vr-HUWT. 0*87 

their present position, and, when I asked Iiim why he did 
not possess these useful animals, he said, " Who would give 
us the medicine to enable us to keep them ?" 1 found out 
the reason afterward in the prevalence of tsetse; tut of 
this ho was ignorant, having supposed that ho could not 
keep caUle because ho had no medicine 



^ CHAPTER XXX. 

DR. LIVINCI STONE REACHES TETE. 

14fA. — We left Nyampungo this morning. The path 
wound up tho Molinge, another sand-river which flows into 
the Nake. When we got clear of the tr.nglcd jungle which 
covers the banks of these rivulets, wo entered the Mopan« 
country, where we could walk with comfort. When wo 
had gone on a few hours, my men espied an elephant, and 
were soon in full pursuit. They were in want of meat, 
h.iving tasted nothing but grain for several days. Th« 
dc^siro for animal food made them all eager to slay him, 
a,ad, though an old bull, he was soon killed The people 
(// Nyampungo had never seen such dcsj^eradoes before. 
One rushed up and hamstrung the boast, while still stand- 
*^»> by a blow with an axe. Some Banyai eleyjhant- 
hunters happened to be present when my men were fighting 
with him. One of them took out his snuft-box and poured 
out all its contents at the root of a ti^?<), as an offering to 
the Barimo for success. As soon as tho animal fell, the 
whole of my party engaged in a wild, eav.'igo dance round 
the body, which quite frightened tho Banyai, and he who 
tnado the offering said to me, "1 see you y.ie travelling 
with people who don't know how to pray: 1 therefore 
offeied the only thing X had in their behalf, and the ele- 
phant soon fell." One of A'yampun^':u's men, who remamed 
with me, ran a little forward, when an opening in the trees 



388 GAME-LAWS — HYENAS 

garc us a view of the chase, and uttered loud prayers foi 
puccess in the combat. I admired the devout belief they 
ah possessed in the actual existence of unseen beings, and 
prayed that they might yet know that benignant One who 
views us all as his own. My own people, who are rather 
a degraded lot, remarked to me, as I came up, '' God gave 
it to us. He said to the old beast, ^Go up there : men aie 
come who will kill and eat you.'" These remarks are quoted 
to give the reader an idea of the native mode of expression 

Ad we were now in the country of stringent game-lawa, 
we were obliged to send all the way back to Nyampungo, 
to give information to a certain person who had been left 
there by the real owner of this district to watch over hia 
property, the owner himself living near the Zam.besi. The 
Bide upon which the elephant fell had a short, broken tusk; 
the upper one, which was ours, was large and thick. The 
Banyai remarked on our good luck. The men sent to give 
notice came back late in the afternoon of the following day. 
They brought a basket of corn, a fowl, and a few strings 
of handsome beads, as a sort of thank-offering for our 
having killed it on their land, and said they had thanked 
the Barimo besides for our success, adding, ^' There it is; 
eat it and be glad." Had we begun to cut it up before we 
got this permission, we should have lost the whole. They 
brought a large party to eat their half, and they divided it 
with us in a friendly way. My men were delighted with 
the feast, though, by lying unopened a whole day, the 
carcass was pretty far gone. An astonishing number of 
hyenas collected round and kept up a loud laughter for 
two whole nights. Some of them do make a very good 
imitation of a laugh. I asked my men what the hyenas 
were laughing at, as they usually give animals credit for a 
share of intelligence. They said that they were laughing 
because we could not take the whole, and that they would 
have plenty to eiit as well as we. 

On coming to the part where the elephant was slain, we 
passed through grass so tall that it reminded me of that id 



INSECT LIFE — BIRDS. S89 

tlie valley of Cassange. Insects are very numerous after 
the rains commence. While waiting by the elephant, I 
observed a great number of insects, like grains of fine sand, 
moving on my boxes. On examination with a glass, four 
species were apparent: one of green and gold preening its 
wings, which glanced in the sun with metallic lustre; an- 
other clear as crystal; a third of the color of vermilion^; 
and a fourth black. These are probably some of thosks 
which consume the seeds of every plant that grows. 
Almost every kind has its own peculiar insect, and when 
the rains are over very few seeds remain untouched. The 
rankest poisons, as the kongwhane and euphorbia, are soon 
devoured ; the former has a scarlet insect ; and even the fiery 
bird's-eye pepper, which will keep off many others from their 
own seeds, is itself devoured by a maggot. I observed here, 
what I had often seen before, that certain districts abound 
in centipedes. Here they have light reddish bodies and 
blue legs: great myriapedes are seen crawling everywhere. 
Although they do no harm, they excite in man a feeling of 
loathing. Perhaps our appearano-e produces a similar feel- 
ing in the elephant and other large animals. Where they 
have been much disturbed, they certainly look upon tis witli 
great distrust, as the horrid biped that ruins their peacCo 
In the quietest parts of the forest there is heard -a faiiiA 
but distinct hnm, which tells of insect joy. One may see 
many whisking about in the clear sunshine in patches 
among the green glancing leaves; but there are invisible 
myriads working with never-tiring mandibles on leaves 
and stalks and beneath the soiL They are all brimful of 
enjoyment. Indeed, the universality of organic life may 
be called a mantle of happy existence encircling the world, 
and impaMs the idea of its being caused by the conscious- 
ness of our benignant Father's smile on all the works of 
his hands. 

The birds of the tropics have been described as generally 
wanting in power of song. I was decidedly of opinion 
that this was not applicable to many parts in Londa^ 

33* 



6fH} BIRDS — CATERPILLARS. 

though birds there are remarkably sfarce. Here the 
chorus, or body of song, was not much smaller in vol am© 
Chan it is in England. It was not so harmonious, and 
sounded always as if the birds were s'nging in a foreign 
tongue. Some resemble the lark, and, indeed, there are 
several of that family; two have notes not unlike those of 
tho thmsh. One brought the chaffinch to my mind, and 
another tho robin; but their songs are intermixed with 
ee^-Dral curious abrupt notes unlike any thing English. 
One utters deliberately "peek, pak, pok;" another has a 
single note like a stroke on a violin-string. The mokwa 
reza gives forth a screaming set of notes like our blackbird 
when disturbed, then concludes with what the natives say 
is "pula, pula,*' (rain, rain,) but more like "weep, weep, 
weep." Then we have the loud cry of francolins, tho 
''■pumpuru, pumpuru," of turtle-doves, and the "ehiken, 
ehiken, chik, churr, churr," of the honey-guide. Occasion- 
ally, near villages, we have a kind of mocking-bird, imi- 
tating the calls of domestic fowls. These African birds 
have not been wanting in 'song : they have only lacked 
poets to sing their praises, which oura have had fi*om the 
tin# of Aristophanes downward. Ours have both a classic 
and a modern interest to enhance their fame. In hot, dry 
weather, or at mid-day when the sun is fierce, all are still : 
let, however, a good shower fall, and all burst forth at onco 
into mcriy lays and loving courtship. The early mornings 
snd the cool evenings are their favorite times for singing. 
There are comparatively few with gaudy plumage, being 
totally unlike, in this inspect, the birds of the Brazils. 
The majority have decidedly a sober dix^ss, though col- 
lectors, having generally selected the gaudiest as the most 
valuable, have conveyed the idea that the birds of tho 
tropics for the most part possess gorgeous plumage. 

\^th. — Several of my men have been bitten by spiders 
and other insects, but no effect except pain has followed. 
A large caterpillar is frequently seen, called lezuntabuea. 
U is covered with long gray hairp, and, tho body being 



THE itlOKORONGA. o91 

dark, it resembles a porcupine in miniature, if one t :)achea 
it, the hairs run into the pores of the skin, and remain 
there, giving sharp pricks. There are others which have 
a similar means of defence; and when the hand is drawn 
across them, as in passing a bush on which they happen to 
be, the contact resembles the stinging of nettles. From 
the great number of caterpillars seen, we have a consider- 
able variety of butterflies. One particular kind flies more 
like a swallow than a butterfly. They are not remarkable 
for the gaudiness of their colors. 

In passing along, we crossed the hills Yungue or Mvung- 
we, which we found to be composed of various eruptive 
rocks. At one part we have breccia of altered marl or slate 
in quartz, and various amygdaloids. It is curious to observe 
the difl*erent forms which silica assumes. We have it in clay- 
stone porphyry here, no larger than turnip-seed, dotted 
thickly over the matrix; or crystallized round the walls of 
cavities once filled with air or other elastic fluid; or it may 
appear in similar cavities as tufts of yellow asbestos, or as 
red, yellow, or green crystals, or in lamina) so arranged as to 
appear like fossil wood. Yungue forms the watershed be- 
tween those sand-rivulets which run to the N.E., and others 
which flow southward, as the Kapopo, Ue, and Due, which 
run into the Luia. 

We found that many elephants had been feeding on the 
fruit called mokoronga. This is a black-colored plum, 
having pur])Ie juice. We all ate it in large quantities, as 
we found it delicious. The only defect it has is the great 
size of the seed in comparison with the pulj). Iliis is the 
chief fault of all uncultivated wild fruits. The moko- 
ronga exists throughout this part of the country most 
abundantly, and the natives eagerly devour it, as it is said 
to be perfectly wholesome, or, as they express it, "It in 
I'Sivo f:it," a? d fat is by them considered the best of food. 
Though only a little larger than a cherry, we found that the 
elephants had stood picking them off patiently by the hour. 
Wo observed the footprij^ts of a black rhinoceros (Rhino- 



B92 THE RHINOCEROS. 

ceros biccrnis, Lkih.) and her calf. We saw other foctpriiin 
arAong Iho hills of Semalcmbue; but the black rliinoceros 
is remarkably scarce in all the country north of the Zaio* 
bosi. The white rhinoceros {Rhinoceros sinius of Burchell,) 
or ^tohohu of the BechuivDas, is quite extinct here, and 
will soon become unknown in the country to the south. 
It feeds almost entirely on grasses, and is of a timid, un- 
suspecting disposition : this renders it an easy prey, and 
they are slaughtered without mercy on the introduction ol 
fii*e-arras. The black possesses a more savage nature, and, 
like the ill-natured in general, is never found with an ounce 
of fat in its body. From its greater fierceness and wariness, 
it holds its place in a district much longer than its more 
timid and better-conditioned neighbor. Mr. Oswell was 
once stalking two of these beasts, and, as they came slowly 
to him, he, knowing that there is but little chance of hitting 
the small brain of this animal by a shot in the head, lay 
expecting one of them to give his shoulder till he was 
within a few yards. The hunter then thought that by 
making a ru&h to his side lw3 might succeed in escaping; 
but the rhinoceros, too quick for that, turned upon him, 
and, though he discharged his gun close to the animal's 
head, he w^as tossed in the air. My friend was insensible 
for some time, and, on recovering, found large wounds on 
the thigh and body : I saw that on the former part &till 
i^\)Q\\ and five inches long. The white, however, is not 
always quite safe, for one, even after it was mortally 
wounded, attacked Mr. Oswell's horse, and thrust the 
horn through to the saddle, tossing at the time both horse 
and rider. 1 once saw a white rhinoceros give a buffalo^, 
which was gazing intently at myself, a poke in the chest, 
but it did not wound it, and seemed only a hint to get out 
of the way. Four varieties of the rhinoceros arc enume- 
rated by naturalists, but my observation led me to conclude 
that there are but two, and that the extra fpecies have 
been formed frcm differences in their sizes, ages, and the 
direction of the horns; as if we should reckon the short- 



nONEi AND WAX 3D0 

homed cattle a different species from ihe Aldcrneys or the 
Highland breed. I was led to this from having once seen 
a black rhinoceros with a horn bent downward like that 
of the kuabaoba, and also because the animals of the two 
great varieties differ very much in appearance at different 
stages of their growth. I find, however^ that Dr. Smith, 
the best judge in these matters, is quite decided as to the 
propriety of the subdivision into three or four species. Foi 
common readers it is sufficient to remember that there are 
two well-defined species, that differ entirely in appearance 
and food. The absence of both these rhinoceroses among 
the reticulated rivers in the central valley may easily bo 
accounted for, they would be such an easy prey to tho 
natives in their canoes at the periods of inundation; but 
one cannot so readily account for the total absence of tlie 
giraffe and ostrich on the high open lands of the Batoka 
north of the Zambesi, unless we give credence to the native 
report which bounds the country still farther north by 
another network of waters near Lake Shuia, and suppose 
that it also prevented their progress southward. The Jia- 
toka have no name for the giraffe or the ostrich in their lan- 
guage; yet, as the former exists in considerable numbers 
in the angle formed by the Leeambye and Chobe, they 
may have come from the north along the western ridge. 
The Chobe would seem to have been too narrow to act aa 
an obstacle to the giraffe, supposing it to have come into 
that district from the south; but the broad river into 
which that stream flows seems always to have preaent'sd 
an impassable barrier to both the giraffe and the ostrich, 
though they abound on its southern border, both in the 
Kalahari Desert and the country of Mashona. 

The honey-guides were very assiduous in their friendly 
ofliccs, and enabled my men to get a largo qu'intity of 
honey. But, though bees abound, the wax of these parts 
forms no article of trade. In Londa it may bo said to be 
fully cared for, as you find hives placed upon trees in the 
most lonesome forests. Wo often met strings oi carriers 



d94 SLOW rRAVELLlNG. 

laden wit a large blocks of this substance, eacli eighty ot 
a hundred pounds in weight, jmd pieces were offered to 
us tcr sale at CYCvy villagy ; but here we never saw a single 
urCncial hive. The bees were always found in the natural 
caYiti«3S of mopane-trees. It is ^^robable that the good 
m.'s rket for wax afforded to Angola by the churches of 
Brazil led to the gradual development of that branch of 
eo.iimercc there. 1 saw even on the banks of the Quango a8 
much as sixpence paid for a pound. In many parts of vho 
Batoka country bees exist in vast numbers, and tlie tribute 
due to Sekeletu is often paid in large jars of honey; but, 
having no market nor use for the wax, it is thrown away. 
This was the case also with ivory at the Lake IS^gami at 
the period of its discovery. 

Though we are now approaching the Portuguese settle 
uiont, ihe country is still full of large game. My men 
killed six buffalo-calves out of a herd wo met. The abun- 
dance of these animals, and also of antelopes, shows the in 
sufficiency of the bow and arrow to lessen their numbers. 
There are also a great many lions and hyenas, and there in 
no check upon the increase of the former, for the people^ 
believina: that the souls of their chiefs enter into them 
never attempt to kill them : they even believe that a chief 
may metamorphose himself into a lion, kill any one he 
chooses, and then return to the human form : therefore, 
when they see one, they commence clapping their hands, 
which is the usual mode of salutation here. The conse- 
quence is that lions and hyenas are so abundant that we 
sec little huts made in the trees, indicating the places where 
some of the inhabitants have slept when benighted in the 
fields. As numbers of my men frequently left the line of 
march in order to take out the korwes from their nests 
or follow the honey-guides, they excited the astonishraenl 
of our guides, who were constantly warning them of the 
danger they thereby incurred from lions. I was often con- 
siderably ahead of the main body of my men on this ac- 
count, and was obli.jied to stop every hour or two; but, the 



^! 



GRAPES, oDf 

finii being excessively hot by day, 1 was glad of the excuse 
for resting. Wo could make no such prodigious stiides as 
officers in the Arctic regions are able to do. Ten or twelve 
miles a day were a good march for both the min and my- 
self; and it 'was not the length of the marches, but con- 
tinuing day after day to j)erform the same distance, that 
was so fatiguing. It was in this case much longer than ap- 
pears on the map, because wo kept out of the way of vil- 
lages. I drank less than the natives when riding; but all ray 
clothing was now constantly damp from the moisture which 
was imbibed in large quantities at every pond. One doc,^ 
not stay on these occasions to prepare water with alum 
or any thing else, but drinks any amount without fear. 1 
never felt the atmosphere so steamy as on the low-lying 
lands of the Zambesi; and yet it was becoming cooler than 
it was on the highlands. 

We crossed the rivulets Kapoj)0 and Ue, now running but 
usually dry. There are great numbers of wild grape-vines 
growing in this quarter: indeed, they abound everywhere 
along; the banks of the Zambesi. In the Batoka countrv 
there is a variety which yields a black grape of considerable 
sweetness. The leaves are very large and harsh, as if capa- 
ble of withstanding the rays of this hot sun; but the most 
common kinds — one with a round leaf and a greenish 
grape, and another with a leaf closely resembling that of 
the cultivated varieties and with dark or purple fruit — 
have large seeds, which arc strongly astringent and render 
it a disagreeable fruit. The natives eat all the varieties; and 
I tasted vinegar made by a Portuguese from these grapes. 
Probably a country which yields the wild vines so very 
abundantly might be a fit one for the cultivated spooies. 
At this part of the journey so many of the vines hai run 
across the little footpath we followed that one hai to 
bo constantly on the watch to avoid being tripped. The 
ground was covered with rounded shingle, which was not 
easily seen among the grass. Pedestrianism may be all 
very well for those whose obesity requires much exercise; 



896 THE UE — MONINA'S VILLAGE. 

but for one who was becoming as thin as a lath, thiou 
the constant perspiration caused by marching day aflei 
day in the hot sun, the only good I saw in it was that i 
gave an honest sort of a man a vivid idea of the tread 
mill. 

AUhough the rains were not quite over, great numbem 
of pools were drying up, and the ground was in many 
parts covered with small green cryptogamous plants, which 
gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong smell. As we 
sometimes pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation 
Vihich hung over our j^ath, we felt a sort of hot blast on our 
faces. Every thing looked unwholesome ; but we had no 
fever. The Tie flows between high banks of a soft red 
sandstone streaked with white, and pieces of tufa. The 
crumbling sandstone is evidently alluvial, and is cut into 
twelve feet deep. In this region, too, we met with pot- 
holes six feet deep and three or four in diameter. In some 
rases they form convenient wells ; in others they are full 
of earth ; and in others still the people have made them 
into graves for their chiefs. 

On the 20th we came to Monina's village, (close to the 
Band-river Tangwe, latitude 16° 13' 38" south, longitude 
82° 32' east.) This man is very popular among the tribes, 
on account of his liberality. Boroma, Nyampungo, Mo- 
nina, Jira, Katolosa, (Monomotapa,) and Susa, all acknow- 
ledge the supremacy of one called Nyatewe, who is re- 
ported to decide all disputes respecting land. 

When we told Monina that we had nothing to present 
but some hoes, he replied that he was not in need of those 
articles, and that he had absolute power over the country 
in front, and if he prevented us from proceeding no one 
would say any thing to him. His little boy Boromo having 
come ic .he encampment to look at us, I gave him a knife, 
and he went off and brought a pint of honey for me. The 
father came soon afterward, and I offered him a shirt. He 
remarked to his councillors, ''It is evident that this man 
has nothing, for, if he had, his people would be buying 



INSANITY AND DISAPPEARANCE OF MONAHIN. ^97 

provisions, but we don't see them going about for that pur- 
pose/' His council did not agree in this. Thej evidently 
believed that we had goods but kept them hid, and we foil 
it rather hard to be suspected of falsehood. It was pro- 
bably at their suggestion that in the evening a war-dance 
was got uj) about a hundred yards from our encampment, 
as if to put us in fear and force us to bring forth presents. 
Borne of Monina's young men had guns, but most were 
armed with large bows, arrows, and spears. They beat 
their drums furiously, and occasionally fired off a gun. As 
this sort of dance is never got up unless there is an inten- 
tion to attack, my men expected an assault. We sat and 
lOoked at them for some time, and then, as it became dark, 
lay down all ready to give them a warm reception. But an 
hour or two after dark the dance ceased, and, as we then 
saw no one approaching us, we went to sleep. During the 
night, one of my head-men, Monahin, was seen to get up, 
^ok toward the village, and say to one who was half 
awake, ^^ Don't you hear what these people are saying? 
Go and listen.'^ He then walked off in the opposite direc- 
tion, and never returned. We had no guard set, but every 
one lay with his spear in his hand. The man to whom he 
spoke appears to have been in a dreamy condition, for it 
did not strike him that he ought to give the alarm. Next 
morning I found to my sorrow that Monahin was gone, 
and not a trace of him could be discovered. He had an 
attack ©f pleuritis some weeks before, and had recovered, 
but latterly complained a little of his head. I observed 
him in good spirits on the way hither, and in crossijg 
some of the streams, as I was careful not to wet my feet, 
he aided me, and several times joked at my becoming so 
light In the evening he sat beside my tent until it was 
dark, and did not manifest any great alarm. It was pro- 
bably either a sudden fit of insanity, or, having gon3 a little 
way out from the camp, he may have been carried off by a 
lion, as this part of the country is full of them. I iiichne to 

Lho former opinion, because s^idden insanity occurs when 

34 



898 SAND AIVER TANGWE. 

there is any unnsual strain upon their minds. Monahiii was 
in command of the Batoka of Mokwine in my party, and ho 
was looked upon with great dislike by all that chief's sub- 
jects. The only difficulties I had with them arose in con* 
jiequence of being obliged to give orders through him. 
They said Mokwine is reported to have been killed by the 
Makololo, but Monahin is the individual who put forth hia 
hand and slew him. When one of these people kills in 
battle, he seems to have no compunction afterward; but 
when he makes a foray on his own responsibility, and kills 
a man of note, the common people make remarks to each 
other, which are reported to him and bring the affair per- 
petually to his remembrance. This iteration on the con- 
science causes insanity, and, when one runs away in a wide 
country like this, the fugitive is never heard of. Monahin 
had lately become afraid of his own party from overhearing 
their remarks, and said more than once to me, " They wan»i 
to kill me.'' I believe if he ran to any village they would 
take care of him. I felt his loss greatly, and spent threo 
daj^s in searching for him. He was a sensible and most 
obliging man. I sent in the morning to inform Monina of 
this sad event, and ho at once sent to all the gardens 
around, desiring the people to look for him, and, should ho 
come near, to bring him home. He evidently sympathized 
with us in our sorrow, and, afraid lest we might suspect 
him, added, *' We never catch nor kidnap people here. It 
is not our custom. It is considered as guilt among all the 
tribes." I gave him credit for truthfulness, and he allow^a 
as to move on without further molestation. 

After leaving his village, we marched in the bed of & 
imnd-river a quarter of a mile broad, called Tangwe. 
Walking on this sand is as fatiguing as walking on snow. 
The country is flat, and covered with low trees; but we see 
high hills in the distance. A little to the south we have 
those of the Lobole. This region is very much infested by 
lions, and men never go any distance into the woods alone. 
Having turned aside on one occasion at mid-day, and gone 



THE ORDEAL MUAVI. 399 

a short distance among grass a little taller than myself, an 
animal sprang away from me which was certainly not au 
antelope, but I could not distinguish whether it was a lion 
or a hyena. This abundanje of carnivora made us loso all 
hope of Monahin. We saw footprints of many bhick rhi- 
noceroses, buffalos, and zebras. 

After a few hours we reached the village of Nyakoba. 
Two men who accompanied us from Monina to Nyakoba'a 
would not believe us when we said that we had no beads. 
It is very trying to have one's veracity doubted; but, on 
opening the boxes, and showing them that all 1 had 
was perfectly useless to them, they consented to receive 
some beads off Sekwebu's waist, and I promised to send 
four yards of calico from Tete. As we came away from 
Monina's village, a witch-doctor, who had been sent for, 
arrived, and all Monina's wives went forth into the fiidds 
that morning fasting. There they would be compelled 
to drink an infusion of a plant named ''goho," which 
is used as an ordeal. This ceremony is called '' muavi," 
and is performed in this way. When a man 8us2:)ect8 
that any of his wives has bewitched him, be sends 
for the witch-doctor, and all the wives go forth uito the 
field and remain fasting till that person has made an 
infusion of the plant. They all drink it, each one holding 
up her hand to heaven in attestation of her innocency. 
Those who vomit it are considered innocent, while those 
whom it purges are pronounced guilty, and put to death by 
burning. The innocent return to their homes, and slaughter 
a cock as a thank-offering to their guardian spirits. The 
practice of ordeal is common among all the negro natioriU 
north of the Zambesi. This summary procedure excittd 
my surprise, for my intercourse with the natives hero had 
led me to believe that the women were held in so much 
estimation that the men would not dare to get rid of theiii 
thus. But the explanation I received was this. Tho 
slightest imputation makes them eagerly desire the tost; 
they arc conscious of being inno'^ent; and have the fulloBl 



400 woman's rights 

ruith in the muavi detecting the guillj" alone: hence thoy 
go willingly, and even eagerly, to drink it. "When in An- 
gola, a half-caste was pointed out to me who is one of tho 
most successful merchants in that country; and the mother 
of this gentleman, who was perfectly free, went, of hei 
own accord, all the way from Ambaca to Cassange, to be 
killed by the ordeal, her rich son making no objection. 
The same custom prevails among the Barotse, Bashubia, 
and Batoka, but with slight variations. The Barotse, foi 
instance, pour the medicine down the throat of a cock or 
of a dog, and judge of the innocence or guilt of the person 
accused according to the vomiting or purging of the 
animal. I happened to mention to my own men the water- 
test for witches formerly in use in Scotland: the supposed 
witch, being bound hand and foot, was thrown into a pond : 
if she floated, she was considered guilty, taken out, and 
burned; but if she sank and was drowned, she was pro- 
nounced innocent. The wisdom of my ancestors excited 
as much wonder in their minds as their custom did in 
mine. 

The person whom Nyakoba appointed to be our guide, 
having informed us of the decision, came and bargained 
that his services should be rewarded with a hoe. I had 
no objection to give it, and showed him the article: he 
was delighted with it, and went off to show it to his wife. 
Me soon afterward returned, and said that, though he was 
perfectly willing to go, his wife would not let him. I siiid, 
•*Then bring back the hoe;" but he replied, "I want it." 
"■* Well, go with us, and you shall have it.'' " But my wife 
won't let me." I remarked to my men, " Did you ever 
hear such a fool?" They answered, "Oh, that is tho cus- 
tom cf these parts : the wives are the masters." And 
Sekwcbu informed me that he had gone to this man's 
houee, and heard him saying to his wife, ^'Do you think 
that 1 \yo\dd ever leave you?" then, turning to Sekwebu, 
he asked, " Do you think I would leave this pretty 
woman ? Is she not pretty?" Sekwebu had been making; 



i 



WOMA.N S RIGHTS. 401 

in/{iiirie8 amoiig the people, and had found that the 
women indeed possessed a great deal of influence. We 
qiacstioned the guide whom "vve finally got from Kya- 
koba, an intelligent young man, who had much of tli© 
Arab features, and found the statements confirmed. 
When a 3'oung man takes a liking for a girl of another 
tillage, and the parents have no objection to the mutch, 
ho is obliged to come and live at their village, lie haa 
to perform certain services for the mother-in-law, such 
as keeping her /well supplied with firewood; and wnea 
ho comes into her presence he is obliged to sit with his 
knees in a bent position, as putting out his feet toward 
the old lady would give her great offence. If he becomes 
tired of living in this state of vassalage, aud Avishes to re- 
turn to his own family, he is obliged to leave all his chil- 
dren behind: they belong to the wife. This is only a 
more stringent enforcement of the law from which ema- 
nates the practice which prevails so very ciitensively in 
Africa, known to Europeans as ''buying wives," Such 
virtually it is; but it does not appear quite in that light 
to the actors. So many head of cattle or goats arc given 
to the parents of the girl " to give her up,'^ as it is termed, 
— i.e. to forego all claim on her offspring and allow an 
entire transference of her and her seed into another fanJly. 
If nothing is given, the family from which she ha.s come 
can claim the children as part of itself: the payment is 
made to sever this bond. In the case supposed, the young 
man has not been able to advance any tn.» ug for that pur- 
pose; and, from the temptations placed here before my 
rnnn, I liave no doubt that some prefer to have thoii 
da'igbters married in that way, as it leads to the increase 
of tlieir own village. My men excited the admiraLian 
of th^ Bambiri, who took them for a superior breed or* 
accoun'*i of their bravery in elephant hunting, and wished 
to g'jt them as sons-in-law on the conditions named ; bu( 
Donc) yieldod to the temptation. 

We were informed that there is a child belonging to a 
2 A u* 



402 THE WEATHER. 

half-caste PortT.gaese in one of these tribes, and the futhei 
had tried in vain to get him fi'om the mother's parents. 
Wo saw several things to confirm the impression of the 
higher position which women hold here; and, being anxlou? 
to discover if J were not mistaken, when we came among 
the Portuguese I inquired of them, and was told that they 
had ajrcertaincd the same thing; and that, if the}' wished 
K man to pei-form any service for them, he would repl}-, 
"Well, 1 shal! go and ask my wife." If she consented, lie 
would go and perform his duty faithfully ; but no amount 
of coaxing or bribery would induce him to do it if she 
refused. The Portuguese praised the appearance of the 
Banyai; and they certainly are a fine race. 

AVe got on bcttei' with Nyakoba than we expected. He 
has been so much affected by the sesenda that he is quite 
decrepit, and requires to be fed. 1 at once showed his 
messenger that we had nothing whatever tu give. Kya- 
koba was offended with him for not believing me, and he 
•mmediatcly sent a basket of maize and another of corn. 
Haying that he believed my statement, and would send 
men with me to Tete who would not lead me to any <^ther 
village. 

The birds here sing very sweetly, and 1 thought 1 heard 
the canary, as in Londa. We had a heavy shower of rain; 
and I observed that the thermometer sank 14^ in one hour 
afterward. From the beginning of February vre expe- 
rienced a sensible diminution of temperature. In January 
the lowest wa":* 70", and that at sunrise; the averaj^o at 
(ho same hour (sunrise) being 79°; at 3 p.m., 90°; and at 
iunset, 82°. In February it fell as low as 70° in the course 
ot the night, and the average height was 88°. Only onco did 
it rise to 9t°, and a thunder-storm followed this; yet Iho 
sensation of heat was greater now than it had been at 
much higher temperatures on more elevated lands. 

We passed several villages by going roundabout waya 
through the forest. We saw the remains of a lion that had 
been killed by a buffalo, and the horns of a putokwano, 



1 



THE EANYAI. 403 

(bJiick atitelope,) the finest I had ever seen, which had met 
ts death by a lion. The drums, beating all night in one 
village near \Yhich we slept, showed that some person in ii 
had finished his course. On the occasion of the death of a 
lihicf, a trader is liable to l^^ robbed, for the people consider 
themuelve« not amenable to law until a new one is eiecte:l. 
We continued a very winding course, in order to avoid the 
chief Katolosa, who is said to levy large sums upon those 
who fall into his hands Oni of our guides was a fine, tali 
young man, the very image of Ben Habib the Arab. They 
were carrying dried buffalo's meat to the market at Teto 
AS a private speculation. 

A great many of the Eanyai are of a light coffee-and- 
milk color, and, indeed, this color is considered handsome 
throughout the whole country, a fair complexion being as 
much a test of beauty with them as with us. As they 
draw^ out their hair into small cords a foot in length, and 
entwine the inner bark of a certain tree round each sepa- 
rate cord, and dye this substance of a reddish color, many 
t«f them put me in mind of the ancient Egyjitians. The 
great mass of dressed hair which they possess reaches to 
ihe shoulders, but Avhen thc}^ intend to travel they draw it 
»ip to a bunch and tie it on the top of the head. They are 
cleanly in their habits. 

As we did not come near human habitations, and could 
onl}^ take short stages on account of the illness of one of 
iny men, I had an opportunity of observing the expedients 
my party resorted to in order to supply their wants. 
J^arge white edible mushrooms are found on the ant-hills, 
and are very good. The mokuri, a tuber which abounds 
iu the Mopane country, they discovered by percussing the 
ground with stones; and another tuber, about the size of a 
t'lrnip, called "bonga,'' is found in the same situations. It 
docs not determine to the joints like the mokuri, and in 
winter has a sensible amount of salt in it. A fruit called 
Midongo" by the Makololo, "dongolo" by the J^ambiri, 
res«Mnblos in appearance a small ]')lum, which becomes 



104 PUllSUED BY NATIVE?. 

olack when ripe, and is good food, as tlio seeds arc small 
Many trees arc known by tradition, and one rcceivcii 
curious bits of information in asking about different fruitft 
that are met Avith. A tree named " shekabakadzi" is su- 
perior to all others for making fire by friction. As its 
name implies, women may even readily make fire by it 
when benighted. 

We were tolerably successful in avoiding the villages, 
and slept one night on the flanks of the hill Ziraika, where 
a great number of deep pot-holes afforded an abundant 
supply of good rain-water. Here, for the first time, we 
saw hills with bare, smooth, rocky tops, and we crossed 
over broad dikes of gneiss and syenitic porphj-ry: tho 
directimis in which they lay were N. and S. As we were 
now 7 ear to Tete, we were congratulating ourselves on 
havir g avoided those who would onty have plagued us; 
but ^iCxt morning some men saw us, and ran off to inform 
the neighboring villages of our passing. A i^arty imme- 
di'itely pursued us, and, as they knew avo vrere within call 
of Katoldsa, (Monomotapa,) they threatened to send infor- 
mation to that chief of our offence in passing through the 
country without leave. We were obliged to give them two 
small tusks ; for, had they told Katolosa of our supposed 
offence, w^o should in all probability have lost the whole 
We then went through a very rough, stony country with- 
out any path. Being pretty well tired out in the evening 
ol the 2d of March, I remained at about eight miles' distance 
from Tele, Tette, or Nyungwe. My men asked me to go 
on: I felt too fatigued to proceed, but sent forward to the 
commandant the letters of recommendation with which 1 
had been favored in Angola by the bishop and others, and 
lay down to rest. Our food having been exhausted, mj 
men had been subsisting for some time on roots and honoy 
Afcout two o'clock in tho morning of tho 3d we .vere 
aroused by two officers and a company of soldiers, who had 
been sent with the materials for a civilized breakfjist and a 
<<mashccla" to bring me to Tete. (Commandant's house; 



GENEROSITY OF IHE COMMANDANT. 405 

lat 16° 9' 3" S., long. 33° 28' E.) My companions Ihonght 
that we were captured by tbc armed men, and called me 
in alarm. AVhen I understood the errand on wbicli they bad 
come, and nad partaKcn of a good breakfast, thongb I ha J 
just before been too tired to sleep, all ray fatigue vanished 
It was the most refreshing breakfast I ever partook rf^ 
and I walked the last eight miles without the least feeling 
of weariness, although the path Avas so rough that one of 
the officers remarked to me, " This is enough to tear i 
man's life out of him.'' The pleasure experienced in par- 
taking of that breakfast was on]y equalled by the enjoy- 
ment of Mr. Gabriel's bed on my arrival at Loanda. It 
was also enhanced by the news that Sebastopol had fallen 
and the war was finished. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 
DR. Livingstone's residence at tete. 

i was most kindly received by the commandant, Tito 
Augusto d'Araujo Sicard, who did every thing in his power 
to restore me from my emaciated condition ; and, as this 
was still the unhealthy period at Kilimane, ho advised mo 
to remain Avith him until the following month. Ho also 
generously presented my men with abundant provibions of 
millet; and, by giving them lodgings in a house of his own 
until they could erect their own huts, ho preserved them 
from the bite of the tampans, here named Carapatos. Wo 
had hoard frightful accounts of this insect while among the 
Banyiii; and Major Sicard assured mo that to strangers iti 
bite is more especially dangerous, as it sometimes cav.sea 
fata ' fever It may please our homoBopathic friends to bear 
that, in curing tho bite of the tampan, the natives adna- 
nistcr one of the insects bruised in tho medi<3ino employed. 

The village of Tete is built on a long slope down to t*ia 



tut) tete: its population 

river, the fort be.ng close to the water. The rock beneath 
is gray sandstone, and has the appearance of bemg crushed 
away fi?m the river: the strata have thus a cruraphni 
form. The hollow between each crease is a street, tl^e 
houses beinn; built upon the projecting fold. The rocks at 
the top of the slope are much higher than the fort, and, of 
course, completely command it. There is then a large 
valley, and beyond that an oblong hill called Karueira. 
There are about thirty European houses : the rest are 
native, and of wattle and daub. A wall about ten feet 
high is intended to enclose the village ; but most of the 
native inhabitants prefer to live on different spots outside. 
There are about twelve hundred huts in all, which with 
European households would give a population of about 
four thousand five hundred souls. Only a small proportion 
of these, however, live on the spot; the majority are en- 
gaged in agricultural operations in the adjacent country. 
Generally there are not more than two thousand people 
resident, for, compared with what it was, Tete is now a 
ruin. The number of Portuguese is very small ; if we ex- 
clude the military, it is under twenty. Lately, however, 
one hundred and five soldiers were sent from Portugal tc 
Senna, where in one year twenty-five were cut off by fever 
They were then removed to Tete; and here they enjoy 
much better health, though, from the abundance of spirits 
distilled from various plants, wild fruits, and grain, in 
which pernicious beverage they largely indulge, besides 
partaking chiefly of unwholesome native food, better health 
could scarcely have been expected. The natives hero un- 
derstand the method of distillation by means of gun-barrels 
and a succession of earthen pots filled with water to keep 
fchem cool. The general report of the fever here is that, 
while at Kilimane the fever is continuous, at Tete a man 
recovers in about three days. The mildest remedies only 
are used at first, and, if that period be passed, then the 
more severe. 
The fort of Tete has been the salvation of the Portuguese 



DECADENCE OP PORTUGUESE POWER. 407 

power in this quarter. It is a small square buildixig. with 
a thatched apartment for the residence of the troops ; and, 
though there are but few guns, they are in a much better 
etate than those of any fort in the interior of Angola. 
1'iio cause of the decadence of the Portuguese power in 
this region is simply this : — In former times, considerable 
quantities of grain, as wheat, millet, and maize, were ex- 
ported; also coffee, sugar, oil, and indigo, besides gold-dust 
and ivory. The cultivation of grain was carried on by 
means of slaves, of whom the Portuguese possessed a large 
number. The gold,-dust was procured by washing at various 
points on the north, south, and west of Tete. A merchant 
took all his slaves with him to the washings, carrying as 
much calico and other goods as he could muster. On 
arriving at the washing-place, he made a present to the 
chief of the value of about a pound sterling. The slaves 
wej-e then divided into parties, each headed by a confiden- 
tial servant, who not only had the supervision of his squad 
while the washing went on, but bought dust from the inhabit- 
ants and made a weekly return to his master. When several 
masters united at one spot, it was called a '^Bara/' and 
they then erected a temporary church, in which a priest 
from one of the missions performed mass. Both chiefs 
and people were favorable to these visits, because the 
traders purchased grain for the sustenance of the slavccS 
with the goods they had brought. They continued at this 
labor until the whole of the goods were expended; and by 
this means about one hundred and thirty pounds of gold 
were annually produced. Probably more than this was 
actually obtained, but, as it w^as an article easily secreted, 
this alone was submitted to the authorities for taxation. At 
present the whole amount of gold obtained annually by 
the Portuguese is from eight to ten pounds only. When 
the slave-trade began, it seemed to many of the merchants 
a more speedy mode of becoming rich to sell off the slaves 
than to pursue the slow mode of gold-washing and agricul* 
tur'}, aiid thoy continued to export them until they had 



40S TETE PLUNDERED AND BURNED. 

neither hands to labor nor to fight for them. It /\'ag just 
the story of the goose and the golden egg. The cotiea 
and sugar plantations and gold-washings were abandoned, 
because the labor had been exported to the Brazils. Many 
of the Portuguese then followed their slaves, and the 
Government was obliged to pass a law^ to prevent further 
emigration, which, had it gone on, would have depopu- 
lated the Portiisfuese possessions altogether. A clever 
man of Asiatic (Goa) and Portuguese extraction, called 
Nyaude, now built a stockade at the confluence of the 
Lucnj'a and Zambesi; and, wdien the commandant of Teto 
sent an officer with his company to summon him to his 
presence, Nyaude asked permission of the officer to dress 
himself, Vv'hich being granted, he went into an inner apart- 
ment, and the officer ordered his men to j^ile their arms. 
A drum of war began to beat a note Avhich is well known 
to the inhabitants. Some of the soldiers took the alarm 
on hearing this note; but the officer, disregarding their 
warning, was, with his whole partj^, in a few minutes dis- 
armed and bound hand and foot. The commandant of 
Teto then armed the whole bodv of slaves and marched 
against the stockade of Nj^aude; but when they came near 
to it there was the'Luenya still to cross. As they did not 
effect this speedily, Nyaude despatched a strong i^arty 
under his son Bonga across the river below the stockade, 
and up the left bank of the Zambesi until they came neai 
10 Tete. They then attacked Tete, which was wholly un- 
defended save by a few^ soldiers in the fort, plundered and 
burned the wiiole town except the house of the command* 
But and a few others, with the church and fort. Tii«> 
\^omcn and children fled into the church; and it is a re- 
markable fact that none of the natives of this region will 
ever attack a chui-ch. Having rendered Tete a ruin, Bonga 
carried off all the cattle and plunder to his father, ^evvs 
of this having been brought to the army before the stock- 
ade, a sudden panic dispersed the whole; and, as the liigl- 
lives took roundabout ways in their flight, Katolosa, who 



SEAMS OF COAL. 409 

and hitherto pretended to be friendly with the Poi tugueaej 
sent out his men to capture as many of them as Ihey could. 
;l'hey kiJled many for tlie sake of their arms. This is the 
account which both natives and Portuguese give of the 
iffair. 

The merchants were unable to engage in trade, and com 
iierce, which the slave-trade had rendered stagnant, was 
cow completely obstructed. The present commanaaui of 
Tete, Major Sicard, having great influence among the 
natives, from his good character, put a stop to the war 
more than once by his mere presence on tlie spot. AVo 
heard of him among the Banj^ai as a man with whom they 
would never fight, because ^' he had a good heart.'^ Had 
I come down to this coast instead of oroino- to Loanda in 
1853, I should have come among the belligerents while the 
war was still raging, and should probably have been cut 
off. My present approach was just at the conclusion of 
the peace; and when the Portuguese authorities here 
were informed, through the kind offices of Lord Clarendon 
and Count de Lavradio, that I was expected to come this 
way, they all declared that such was the existing state of 
affairs that no European could possibl}^ pass through the 
tribes. Some natives at last came down the river to Tete 
and said, alluding to the sextant and artificial horizon, 
that "the Son of God had come," and that he was ''able 
to tako the sun down from the heavens and place it under 
his arm !" Major Sicard then felt sure that this was tho 
man mentioned in Lord Clarendon's despatch. 

Oq mentioning to the commandant that I had discovered 
a small seam of coal, he stated that the Portuguese woro 
already aware of nine such seams, and that five of them 
were on the opposite bank of the river. As soon as I had 
recovered from my fatigue I went to examine them. Wc 
proceeded in a boat to the mouth of the Lofiibu or Revubu 
which is about two miles below Tete and on the opposite 
or northern bank. Ascendin<]: this about four miles iiijcainsf 
a strong ^-urrcnt of beautifully-clear water, wo landed noai 

u 



410 HOT SPRINGS. 

a sill all catai-act, and walked about two miles through very 
foiiile gardens to the seam, which we found to be in one 
of the feeders of the Lofubu, called Muatize or Molizo. 
The seam is in the perpendicular bank, and dips into the 
rivulet; or in a northerly direction. There is, first of all, 
a seam ten inches in diameter, then some shale, belov^ 
which there is another seam, fifty-eight inches of which 
are seen, and, as the bottom touches the water of the 
Muatize, it may be more. This part of the seam is about 
thirty yards long. There is then a fault. About one 
hundred yards higher up the stream, black vesicular trap 
is seen, penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the 
country, converting it into porcellanite, and partially 
crystallizing the coal with which it came into contact. 
On the right bank of the Lofubu there is another feeder 
entering that river near its confluence with the Muatize, 
which is called the Morongozi, in which there is another 
and still larger bed of coal exposed. Farther up the Lo- 
fubu there are other seams in the rivulets Inyavu and 
Makare j also several spots in the Maravi country have 
the coal cropping out. This has evidently been brought to 
the surface by volcanic action at a later period than the 
coal-formation. 

1 also went up the Zambesi, and visited a hot spring 
called Nyamboronda, situated in the bed of a small rivulet 
named Nyaondo, which shows that igneous action is not 
yet extinct. We landed at a small rivulet called Moko- 
rozi, then went a mile or two to the eastward, where we 
found a hot fountain at the bottom of a high hill. A little 
spring bubbles up on one side of the rivulet Nyaondo, and 
a great quantity of acrid steam rises up from the ground 
adjacent, about twelve feet square of which is so hot that 
my companions could not stand on it with their bare feet. 
There are several little holes from which the water 
trickles; but the principal spring is in a hole a foot in 
diameter and about the same in depth. Numbers of 
bubbles are constantly rising. The steam feels acrid in 



COAL-SEAMS. 411 

the throat, but is not inflammable, as it did not burn when 
t held a bunch of lighted grass over the bubbles. The 
mercury rises to 158° when the thermometer is put into 
the v/ater in the hole; but after a few seconds it stands* 
steadily at 160°. Even when flowing over the stones the 
water is too hot for the hand. Little fish frequently leap 
out of the stream in the bed of which the fountain rises, 
into the hot water, and get scalded to death. We saw a 
frog which had performed the experiment and w^as now 
cooked. The stones over which the water flows are in- 
crusted with a white salt, and the water has a saline taste. 
The ground has been dug out near the fountain by the 
natives, in order to extract the salt it contains. It is 
situated among rocks of syenitic porphyry in broad dikes, 
and gneiss tilted on edge and having a strike to the N.E. 
There are many specimens of half-formed pumice, w^ith 
greenstone and lava. Some of the sandstone strata are 
dislocated by a hornblende rock and b}^ basalt, the sand 
stone nearest to the basalt being converted into quartz. 

The country around, as indeed all the district lying JS". 
and N.W. of Tete, is hilly, and,, the hills being covered 
with trees, the scenery is very picturesque. The soil of 
the valleys is very fruitful and well cultiv^ated. There 
would not be much difficulty in working the coal. The 
Lofubu is about sixty yards broad: it flows perennially, 
and at its very lowest period, which is after September, 
there is water about cightfe^n inches deep, which could be 
navigated in flat-bottomed boats. At the time of my visit 
it was full, and the current was very strong. If the small 
cataract referred to were to bo avoided, the land-carriago 
beyond would only be about two miles. The other seams 
farther up the river may, after passing the cataract, be 
approached more easily than that in the Muatize: as tho 
Beam, however, dips down into the stream, no drainage 
ol the mine would be required, for if water were come to 
it would run into the streaxi> I did not visit the others, 
but 1 was informed that thera uro seams in the independent 



4l2 WORKaiEN'S WAGES. 

native territory as well as in that of the Portugucs:. Thi"»t 
in the Xako is in the Banyai country; and, indeed, 1 have 
no doubt but that the whole country between Zun:.bo and 
liupata is a coal-field of at least two a\id a half degrees 
of latitude in breadth, having many faults, made during 
iJie time of the igneous action. The gray sandstone rocb^ 
having silicified trees lying on it, is of these dimensions. 
Tlie phmtation in which the seam of coal exists would bo 
valued among the Portuguese at about 60 doHars, or £12; 
but much more would probably be asked if a wealthy pur- 
chaser ap])cared. They could not, however, raise the price 
very much higher, because estates containing coal might 
be had from the native owners at a much cheaper rate. 
The wages of free laborers, Avhcn employed in such Avork 
as goid-washing, agriculture, or digging coal, is two yarda 
of unbleached calico per day. They might be got to work 
much cheaper if engaged by the moon, or for about sixteen 
yards per month. For masons and carpenters even, tho 
ordinary rate is two yards per day. This is called one 
braga. Tradesmen from Kilimane demand four bragas, or 
eight yards, per day. English or American unbleachol 
calico is the only currency used. The carriage of goods 
up the river to Tete adds about ten per cent, to their cost. 
The usual conveyance is by means of very large canoea 
and launches built at Senna. 

The amount of merchandise brought up during the fiv<j 
months of peace previous to my visit was of tho valuo 
of 30,000 dollars, or about £6000. The annual supply of 
goods for trade is about £15,000, — being calico, thick 
brass wire, beads, gunpowder, and guns. The quantity 
of the latter is, however, small, as the Government of 
Mozambique made that article contraband after tho com- 
mencement of the war. Goods, when traded with in tho 
tribes around the Portuguese, produce a profit of cniy 
about ten per cent., the articles traded in being ivory and 
gold-dust. A little oil and wheat are exported, but nothing 
else. Trade with the tribes beyond the exclusive ones is 



TRADE—PRICES. 413 

much better. Thirty brass rings cost IO5. at Senna, £1 at 
Tete, and £?^ beyond the tribes in the vicinity of Tote : 
these arc a good price for a penful of gold-dust of the 
value of £2. The plantations of coffee, which, previous to 
the comniencement of the slave-trade, yielded one material 
for exportation, are now deserted, and it is difficult to find 
a single tree. The indigo {Indigofera argentea, the common 
wild indigo of Africa) is found growing cvcrj^where, ami 
large quantities of the senna-plant* grow in the village 
of Tete and other parts; but neither indigo nor senna is 
collected. Calumba-root, which is found in abundance in 
Borao parts farther down the river, is bought by the 
Americans, it is said, to use as a dye-stuff. A kind of 
sarsaparilla, or a plant which is believed by the Portu- 
guese to be such, is found from Londa to Senna, but has 
never been exported. 

The price of provisions is low, but very miich higher 
than previous to the commencement of the war. Two 
yards of calico are demanded for six fowls : this is con- 
sidered very dear, because before the war the same quan- 
tity of calico was worth twenty-four fowls. Grain is sold 
in little bags made from the leaves of the palmyra, like 
those in which we receive sugar. Tiicy are called panjas; 
and each panja weighs between thirty and forty pounds. 
The panja of wheat at Tctc is worth a dollar, or five shil- 
lings; but the native grain may be obtained among the is- 
lands below Lupata at the rate of three panjas for two yards 
of calico. The highest articles of consumption are tea and 
coffee, the tea being often as high as fifteen shillings a pound. 
Food is cheaper down the river below Lupata, and 2~>reTiou3 
to the war the islands which stud the Zambesi were all in- 
habited, and, the soil being exceedingly fertile, grain and 
fowls could be got to any amount. The inhabitants disap- 
peared before their enemies the Landeens, but arc beginning 

* 

* These appear to belong to Cassia aaitifolia, or true senna of com* 
nercc, found in various parts of Africa an<l India.- •/>/•. Ilooher. 

36* 



414 GOLD-WASUINO. 

to return since the peace. They have no calth., the onl} 
place where we found no tsetse being the dis.rict of Tett 
itself; and the cattle in the possession of the Portugucfee 
ai9 a mere remnant of what they formerly owned. 

When visiting the hot fountain, I examined what were 
formerly the go Id- washings in the rivulet Mokoroze, whieb 
is nearly on the 16th parallel of latitude. The banks arc 
covered w^ith large groves of fine mango-trees, among which 
the Portuguese lived while superintending the w-ashing foi 
the precious metal. The process of washing is very labo 
lious and tedious. A quantity of sand is put into a woodeu 
bowl with water: a half-rotatory motion is given to the 
dish, wdiich causes the coarser particles of sand to collect 
on one side of the bottom. These arc carefully removed 
with the hand, and the process of rotation renewed until 
the W'hole of the sand is taken away and the gold alone 
remains. It is found in very minute scales, and, unless 1 
had been assured to the contrary, I should have taken it to 
be niica; for, knowing the gold to be of greater specific 
gravity than the sand, I imagined that a stream of water 
would remove the latter and leave the former; but hci-e 
the practice is to remove the whole of the sand by the 
hand. This process was no doubt a profitable one to the 
Portuguese, and it is probable that, with the improved plan 
by means of mercur}-^, the sands w'ould be lucrative. 1 had 
an opportunity of examining the gold-dust from different 
parts to the east and northeast of Tete. There are six 
well-known washing-places. These are called Mashinga, 
Shindundo, Missala, Kapata, Mano, and Jawa. From the 
description of the rock I received, 1 suppose gold is found 
botli in tlay shale and in quartz. At the range Mushinga 
to tlie N.N.AV". the rock is said to be so soft that the women 
pormd it into powder in wooden mortars previous to wash- 
ing. 

JJound toward the westward, thC old Portuguese indicate 
a station which was near to Zumbo on the river Panyamo, 
and called Dambarari, near which much gold was found 



EXTENT Of THE GOLD-REGIOjm 415 

Farther we«t lay the now unknown kingdom of Abutua, 
which was formerly famous for the metal; and then, coming 
round toward the east, we have the gold-washings of the 
Mashona, or Bazizulu, and, farther east, that of Manica, 
where gold is found much more abundantly than in any 
other part, and which has been supposed by some to be the 
Ophir of King Solomon. I saw the gold from this quartei 
as large as grains of wheat, that found in the rivers which 
run into the coal-field being in very minute scales. If wo 
place one leg of the compasses at Tete, and extend the 
other three and a half degrees, bringing it round from the 
northeast of Tete by west, and then to the southeast, we 
nearly touch or include all the known gold-producing coun- 
try. As the gold on this circumference is found in coarser 
grains than in the streams running toward the centre or 
Tete, I imagine that the real gold-field lies round about the 
coal-field; and, if I am right in the conjecture, then we 
have coal encircled by a gold-field, and abundance of wood, 
water, and provisions, — a combination not often met with 
in the world. The inhabitants are not unfavorable to 
vashings conducted on the principle formerly mentioned. 
At present they wash only when in want of a little calico. 
They know the value of gold perfectl}^ well ; for they 
bring it for sale in goose-quills, and demand twenty-fouL 
yards of calico for one penful. 

Major Sicard, the commandant, whose kindness to me 
and my people was unbounded, presented a rosary made 
of the gold of the country, the workmanship of a native 
of Tete, to my little daughter, — also specimens of the gold- 
dust of three different places, which, with the coal of 
Muatizo and Morongoze, are deposited in the Museum of 
Practical Geology, Jermyn Street, London. 

All the cultivation is carried on with hoes in the native 
manner, and considerable quantities of IIolcus sorghum^ 
maize, Fennisetum typhdideum, or lotsa of the Balonda, 
millet, rice, and wheat are raised, as also several kinds of 
beans, — one of wh ch, called ^Milloo*' by the Bechuanda, 



416 LIBERALITY OF COMMANDANT. 

yields under ground, as well as the Arachis hjpogcEa, or 
groundnut; with cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons. The 
wheat is sown in low-ljing places which arc annually 
flooded by the Zambesi. When the waters j-eiire, the 
women drop a few grains in a hole made w^ith a lioe, then 
push back the soil with the foot. One weeding alone is 
required before the grain comes to maturity. Tliis simple 
process represents all our sub-soil ploughing, liming, ma 
nuring, and harrowing, for in four months after planting a 
good crop is ready for the sickle, and has been known to 
yield a hundred-fold. It flourished still more at Zumbc 
No irrigation is required, because hero there are gentle 
rains, almost like mist, in winter, which go by the name 
of "wheat-showers," and are unknown in the interior, 
where no winter rain ever falls. The rains at Tete come 
from the east, though the prevailing winds come from the 
S.S.E. The finest portion of the flour does not maV^ 
bread nearly so white as the seconds, and here the boyaloa, 
(porabe,) or native beer, is emploj'cd to mix with the flour 
instead of yeast. It makes excellent bread. At Kilimane, 
where the cocoanut-palm abounds, the toddy from it, called 
<'sura," is used for the same purpose, and makes the bread 
still lighter. 

As it was necessary to leave most of my men at this 
place. Major Sicard gave them a portion of land on which 
to cultivate their own food, generously supplying them 
with corn in the mean time. lie also said that my young 
men might go and hunt elephants in company with hia 
servants, and purchase goods with both the ivory and dried 
meat, in order that they might have something to take witb 
them on their return to Sekeletu. The men were delighted 
with his liberality, and soon sixty or seventy of them set 
off to engage in this enterprise. Tnere was no calico to be 
had at this time in Tete, but the commandant handsom.ely 
furnished my men with clothing. I was in a state of want 
myself; and, though I pressed him to take paj'ment ir 
ivory for both myself and men, he refused all recompense 



GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION 417 

1 shall over remember his kiadness "v\itli deep gratitudo 
He has written me, since ray arrival in England, that mj 
men had killed four elephants in the course of two months. 
after my departure. 

On the day of my arrival I was visited by all the gentle- 
men of the village, both white and colored, including the 
padre. 'Not one of them had any idea as to where the 
source of the Zambesi lay. They sent for the best-travelled 
natives; but none of tnem knew the river even as fur as 
Kansala. The father of one of the rebels who had been 
fighting against them had been a great traveller to the 
southwest, and had even heard of our visit to Lake Ngami j 
but he was equally ignorant with all the others that the 
Zambesi flowed in the centre of the country. They had, 
however, more knowledge of the country to the north of 
Tete than I had. One man, who had gone to Cazembe 
with Major Monteiro, stated that he had seen the Luapura 
or Loapula flowing past the town of that chieftain into the 
Luameji or Leeambye, but imagined that it found its way, 
somehow or other, into Angola. The fact that sometimes 
rivers were seen to flow like this toward the centre of the 
country led geographers to the supposition that Inner 
Africa was composed of elevated sandy plains, into which 
rivers ran and were lost. One of the gentlemen present, 
Senhor Candido, had visited a lake forty-five daj^s to the 
N.N.W. of Tete, which is probably the Lake Maravi of 
geographers, as in going thither they pass through the 
people of that name. The inhabitants of its southern coast 
are named ^iva, those on the north, Mujao ; and they call 
the lake ITyanja or N^yanje, which simply means a lurgo 
water, or bed of a large river. A high mountain stands 
in the middle of it, called Murombo or Murombola, which 
is inhabited by people who have much cattle. Ho stated 
that ho crossed the Nyanja at a narrow part, and wad 
thirty-six hours in the passage. The canoes were punted 
the whole way, and, if we take the rate about two miloa 
per hour, it maybe sixty or seventy miles in breadth Th» 



418 THE SHIRE — EARTHQUAKES. 

©oantry all round was composed of level plains covet-ed 
with grass, and, indeed, in going thither they travelled 
aeven or eight days without wood, and cooked their food 
with grass and stalks of native corn alone. The poo}>lo 
BolJ their cattle at a very cheap rate. From the southern 
extremity of the lake two rivers issue forth: one, nauioU 
after itself, the Nyanja, which par^ses into the sea on the 
east coast under another name; and the Shire, which flows 
into the Zambesi a little below Senna. The Shire is namoJ 
Shirwa at its point of departure from the lake, and Senhoi 
Candido was informed, when there, that the lake was sim- 
ply an expansion of the river Nyanja, which comes from 
the north and encircles the mountain Murombo, the mean- 
ing of which is junction or union, in reference to the water 
having parted at its northern extremity and united again 
at its southern. The Shire flows through a low, flat, 
marsiiy country, but abounding in population, and they 
are said to be brave. The Portuguese are unable to navi- 
gate the Shire up to the Lake Nyanja, because of the great 
abundance of a water-plant which requires no soil, and 
which they name ''alfacinya" {Pistia stratiotes) from its 
resemblance to a lettuce. This completely obstructs the 
progress of canoes. In confirmation of this, 1 may state 
.;iiat, when I passed the mouth of the Shire, great quanti- 
ties of this same plant were floating from it into the Zam- 
besi, and many parts of the banks below were covered 
with the dead plants. 

Senhor Candido stated that slight earthquakes have hap- 
pened several times in the country of the Maravi, and at 
no great distance from Tete. The motion seems to como 
from the eastward and never to have lasted more than a 
fow seconds. They are named in the Maravi tongue 
**ohiwo," and in that of the people of Tete "shitakoteko," 
or ^'shivering." This agrees exactly with what has taken 
place in the coast of Mozambique, — a few slight shocks of 
nhort duration, and all appearing to come from the east. 
At Sonra, too, a single shock has been felt t-evoral times. 



' 




KINDNESS or PcRTUOUESE 415 

irbiCb sLook the doors and windows und made the glasses 
jinglo. Both Teto and Senna have hot springs in thei" 
ricinity, but the shocks seemed to come, not from then>j 
but from the east, and proceed to the west. Thej' are ])!0. 
bably connected with the active volcanoes in the island of 
Bourbon. 

Having waited a month for the commencement of the 
healthy season at Kilimane, 1 would have started at tho 
beginning of April, but tarried a few days, in order U at the 
moon might make her appearance and enable me 1o take 
lunar observations on my way down the river. A fmdden 
change of temperature happening on the 4th, simi'iano- 
ously with the appearance of the new moon, the command 
int and myself, with nearly every person in the house, 
were laid up with a severe attack of fever. I soon re- 
covered by the use of my wonted remedies ; but Majoi 
Sicard and his little boy were confined much longer. 
There was a general fall of 4° of temperature from the 
middle of March, 84° at 9 a.m., and 87° at 9 p.m., — tho 
greatest heat being 90° at mid-day, and the lowest 81° at 
sunrise. It afforded me pleasure to attend the invalids in 
their sickness, — though I was unable to show a tithe of the 
gratitude I felt for the commandant's increasing kindness. 

The commandant provided for the journey most abun- 
dantly, and gave orders to Lieutenant Miranda that 1 
should not be allowed to pay for any thing all the wa}^ to 
the coast, and sent messages to his friends Senhors Fen*ao, 
Isidore, Asevedo, and Nunes, to treat me as they would 
himself. From every one of these gentlemen I am happy 
to acknowledge that I received most disinterested kind- 
ness, and I ought to speak well forever of Portuguese hos- 
pitalit}'. 1 have noted each little act of civility received, 
because, somehow or other, wo have come to hold the Por- 
tuguese character in rather a low estimation. This ma}^ 
have arisen partly from tho pertinacity with which some 
of them have pursued tho slave-trade, and partly from the 
eontrast which they now offer to their illustrious ancestors, 



420 THE REBEL BONG A. 

-^the foremost navigators of the world. If tn}' specifitation 
of their kindnesses will tend to engender a more resi)ectfu] 
feeling to the nation, 1 shall consider mj^self wed reAvarded. 
VV^e had three large canoes in the company which had lately 
come up with goods from Senna. They are made very 
large and strong, m'lch larger than any we ever saw in the 
interior, and might strike with great force against a rock 
and not be broken. The men sit at the stern when pad- 
dling, and there is usually a little shed made over a part of 
the canoe to shade the passengers from the sun. The boat 
in which I went was furnished with such a covering; so i 
sat quite comfortably. 



CHAPTEE XXXII. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE REACHES THE EAST COAST AND RETURNS 

TO ENGLAND. 

We left Tete at noon on the 22d, and in the afternoon 
arrived at the garden of Senhor A. Manoel de Gomez, son- 
in-law and nephew of Bonga. The Commandant of Tete 
had sent a letter to the rebel Bonga, stating that he ought 
to treat me kindly, and he had deputed his son-in-law to 
be my host. Bonga is not at all equal to his father ISTy- 
aude, who was a man of great ability. He is also in bad 
odor with the Portuguese, because he receives all runaway 
slaves and criminals. He does not trust the Portuguese, 
and is reported to be escessivel}'' superstitious. I found 
his son-in-law, Manoel, extremely friendly, and able to con- 
vci"se in a very intelligent manner. He was in bis garden 
when we arrived, but soon dressed himself respectably 
and gave us a good tea and dinner. After a breakfast of 
tea, roasted eggs, and biscuits next morning, he presented 
BIX fowls *ind three goats as provision for the jourufty. 



I 



WAR-DRUM AT 6HIRAMBA. 421 

When we parted from him, we passed the stockade of 
Bonga at the confluence of the Luenj^a, but did not go 
near it, as he is said to be very suspicious. Tlie Portuguesje 
advised me not to take any observation, as the instruments 
might awaken fears in Bonga's mind, but Manoel said I 
might do so if I wished : his garden, however, being above 
the confluence, could not avail as a geographical point 
There arc some good houses in the stockade. The trees of 
which it is composed seemed to me to be living, and coiild 
not be burned. It was strange to sec a stockade menacing 
the whole commerce of the river in a situation where tho 
guns of a vessel would have full play on it ; but it is a 
formidable affair for those who have only muskets. On 
one occasion, when Nyaude was attacked by Kisaka, they 
Tought for weeks; and, though Nyaude was reduced to 
cutting up his copper anklets for balls, his enemies were 
not able to enter the stockade. 

We sailed on quickly with the current of the river, and 
found that it spread out to more than two miles in breadth : 
it is, however, full of islands, which are generally covered 
with reeds, and which previous to the war were inhabited 
and yielded vast quantities of grain. We usually landed 
to cook breakfast, and then went on quickly. 

Next day we landed at Shiramba for breakfast, having 
sailed eight and a half hours from Lupata. This was once 
the residence of a Portuguese brigadier, who spent large 
sums of mone}^ in embellishing his house and gardens : 
these we found in entire ruin, as his half-caste son had 
destroyed all, and then rebelled against the Portuguese, 
but with less success than either Nyaude or Kisaka, for be 
had been seized and sent a prisoner to Mozambique a short 
time before our visit. All the southern shore has been 
ravaged by the Caifres, who are here named Landeens; 
and most of tho inhabitants who remain acknowledge the 
authority of Bonga and not of the Portuguese. When at 
breakfast, the people of Shiramba commenced beating the 
dram of war Jjieutcn.'int Miranda, who was well ao» 

36 



422 EENNA 1 ITg KUJNOCS STATE 

quainted T\'iUi the customs of the country, immcdiatefy 
Riiirled to liis ftet and got all the soldiers of our parly 
findei arms : he then demanded of the natives why tho 
drum was beaten while we were there. They gave an 
evasive reply ; and, as they employ tliis means of collect- 
\iig their neighbors when they intend to rob carocs, oui 
i\alchfulness may have prevented their proceeding further. 

Wo spent the night of the 26th on the island called 
Nkuesi, opposite a remarkable saddle-shaped mountain, 
and found that we were just on the seventeenth parallel 
of latitude. The sail down the river was very fine; the 
temperature becoming low, it was pleasant to the feelings j 
but, the shores being flat and far from us, the scenery was 
uninteresting. We breakfasted on the 27tli at Pita, and 
found some half-caste Portuguese had established them- 
selves there, after fleeing from the opposite bank to escape 
Kisaka's people, who were now ravaging all the Maganja 
country. On the afternoon of the 27th we arrived at 
Senna. (Commandant Isidore's house, three hundred 
yards S.W. of the mud-fort on the banks of the river: 
lat. 17° 27' 1" S., long. 35° 10' E.) We found Senna to be 
twenty-three and a half hours' sail from Tete. 

I thought the state of Tete quite lamentable; but that of 
Senna was ten times worse. At Tete there is some life: 
here every thing is in a state of stagnation and ruin. The 
fort, built of sun-dried bricks, has the grass growing over 
the walls, which have been patched in some places by 
paling. The Landeens visit the village periodicallj^ and 
levy fines upon the inhabitants, as they consider the Por- 
taguese a conquered tribe, and very rarely does a native 
come to trade. Senhor Isidore, the commandant, a man 
of considerable energy, had proposed to surround the whole 
village with palisades as a protection against the Landeens, 
and the villagers were to begin this work the day after 1 
left. It was sad to look at the ruin manifest in every 
building; but the half-castes appear to be in league with 
♦:he rebels and L'^r'^leens; for when anj'' attempt is made 



% 



BOAT -BUILDING. 423 

by the Portuguese to coerce the enemy or defend thom- 
ealveSj information is conveyed at once to the Landeen 
camp, and, though the commandant prohibits the payment 
of tribute to the Ijandeens, on their approach the half- 
castes eagerly ransom themselves. 

The village of Senna stands on the right bank of the 
Zambesi. There are many reedy islands in front of it, 
and there is much bush in the country adjacent. The soil 
is fertile; but the village, being in a state of ruin, and 
having several pools of stagnant water, is very unhealthy. 

The most pleasant sight I witnessed at Senna was the 
flcgroes of Senhor Isidore building boats after the European 
model, without any one to superintend their operations. 
They had been instructed by a European master, but now 
go into the forest and cut down the motondo-trces, lay 
down the keel, fit in the ribs, and make very neat boats 
and launches, valued at from £20 to £100. Senhor Isidore 
had some of them instructed also in carpentry at Bio 
Janeiro, and they constructed for him the handsomest 
house in Kilimano, the woodwork being all of country 
trees, some of whiclj are capable of a fine polish, ana very 
durable. 

On the 9th of May sixteen of my men were employed to 
carry Government goods in canoes up to Tetc. They were 
much pleased at getting this work. On the 11th the whole 
of the inhabitants of Senna, with the commandant, accom- 
panied us to the boats. A venerable old man, son of a 
judge, said they were in much sorrow on account of the 
miserable state of decay into which they had sunk, and of 
the insolent conduct of the people of Kisaka now in the 
village. We were abundantly iupplicd with provisions by 
the commandant and Senhor I'errao, and sailed pleasantly 
down the broad river. Abojt thirty miles below Senna 
wo passed the mouth of the river Zangwe on our right, 
which farther up goes by ^tie name of Pungwe; and about 
live miles farther on our left, close to the end of a low 
raT7go into wliich Morumbala merges, wo crossed tba 



424 ETJECTS OF FEVER. 

mouth of the Shire, which seemed to be about two hundred 
yards broad. 

A few miles beyond the Shire we left the hills entirely 
and sailed between extensive flats. The banks seen in the 
distance are covered with trees. We slept on a large in 
habited island, and then came to the entrance of the river 
Mutu, (latitude 18° 3' 37" S., longitude 35° 46' E. :) the point 
of departure is called Mazaro, or "mouth of the Mutu.^' 

I was seized by a severe tertian fever at Mazaro, but 
went along the right bank of the Mutu to the N.^N'.E. and 
E. for about fifteen miles. We then found that it was made 
navigable by a river called the Pangazi, which comes into 
it from the north. 

My fever became excessively severe in consequence of 
travelling in the hot sun, and the long grass blocking up 
the narrow path so as to exclude the air. The pulse beat 
with aniazing force, and felt as if thumping against the 
crown of the head. The stomach and spleen swelled enor 
mously, — giving me, for the first time, an appearance which 
I had been disposed to laugh at among the Portuguese. 
At Interra we met Senhor Asevedo, a man who is well 
known by all who ever visitod Kilimane, and who was pre- 
sented with a gold chronometer watch by the Admiralty 
for his attentions to English ofiiccrs. He immediately 
tendered his large sailing-launch, which had a house in the 
stern. This was greatly in my favor, for it anchored in 
the middle of the stream, and gave me some rest from the 
mosquitos, which in the whole of the delta are something 
frightful. Sailing comfortably in this commodious launch 
along the river of Kilimane, we reached that village (lati- 
tude 17° 53' 8" S., longitude 36° 40' E.) on the 20th of. 
May, 1856, which wanted only a few days of being four 
years since I started from Cape Town. Here I was re- 
ceived into the house of Colonel Galdina Jose Nunes, one 
of the best men in the country. I had been three years 
without hearing from my family, — letters having been 
frequently sent, hut souaehow or other, witl but a single 



THE author's obligations 425 

exception, they never reached me. I received, however, a 
letter from Admiral Trotter, conveying information of their 
welfare, and some newspapers, which were a treat indeed. 
Ilcr majesty's brig the '^Frolic" had called to inquire for 
me in the November previous, and Captain Nolluth, of 
that ship, had most considerately left a case of wine; and 
his surgeon. Dr. James Walsh, divining what I should need 
most, left an ounce of quinine. These gifts made my heart 
overflow. I had not tasted any liquor whatever during the 
time I had been in Africa; but, when reduced in Angola to 
extreme weakness, I found much benefit from a little wine, 
and took from Loanda one bottle of brandy in m^^ medi- 
cine-chest, intending to use it if it were again required ; 
but the boy who carried it whirled the box upside-down 
and smashed the bottle, so that I cannot give my testimony 
either in favor of or against the brandy. 

But my joy on reaching the cast coast was sadly embit- 
tered by the .news that Commander MacLune, of II.M. 
brigantine ^'Dart,'' on coming in to Kilimane to pick me 
ap, had, with Lieutenant Woodruffe and five men, been lost 
on the bar. I never felt more poignant sorrow. It seemed 
as if it would have been easier for me to have died for them 
than that they should all be cut off from the joys of life in 
generously attempting to render me a service. I woul i 
here acknowledge my deep obligations to the Earl of Cla- 
rendon, to the admiral at the Cape, and others, for the kind 
interest they manifested in my safety : even the inquiries 
made were very much to my advantage. I alsoVefer with 
feelings of gratitude to the Governor of Mozambique for 
offering me a passage in the schooner "Zambesi," belonging 
to that province ; and I shall never forget the generous 
bospitjility of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, with whom 
i remained. One of the discoveries I have made is that 
there are vast numbers of good people in the world ; and 
I do most devoutly tender my unfeigned thanks to that 
Gracious One who mercifully watchei over mc i;i every 

3ti* 



426 THE AUTHOR S OBJECTS. 

position and inflAenced tlie hearts of both black and white 
to regard me with favor. 

If the reader has accompanied me thus far, he may per- 
haps be disposed to take an interest in the objects I pro- 
pose to myself should God mercifully grant me the honoi 
of doin^ic somethins; more for Africa. As the hio-hlands 
on the borders of the central basin are comparatively 
healthy, the first object seems to be to secure a permanent 
path thither, in order that Europeans may 2:)ass as quickly 
as possible through the unhealthy region near the coast 
The river has not been surveyed, but at the time I came 
down there was abundance of water for a large vessel; and 
this continues to be the case during four or five months of 
each year. The months of low water still admit of naviga- 
tion by launches, and w^ould ])crmit small vessels equal to 
the Thames steamers to ply with ease in the deep channel. 
If a steamer w^ere sent to examine the Zambesi, I would 
recommend one of the lightest draught, and the months of 
May, June, and July for passing through the delta; and 
this not so much for fear of want of water as the danger 
of being grounded on a sand or mud bank and the health 
of the crew being endangered by the delay. 

In the months referred to, no obstruction would be in- 
curred in the channel below Tete. Twenty or thirty miles 
above that point w^e have a small rapid, of which 1 regret 
my inability to speak, as (mentioned already) I did not 
visit it. But, taking the distance below this point, we have, 
in round numbers, three hundred miles of navigable river. 
Above this rapid we have another reach of three hundred 
miles, with sand, but no mud-banks in it, w^hich brings U8 
to the foot of the eastern ridge. Let it not, however, be 
thought that a vessel by going thither would return laden 
with ivory and gold-dust. The Portuguese of Tete pick up 
uU the merchandise of the tribes in their vicinity ; aiid, 
tliough 1 came out by traversing the people with w^hom the 
Portuguese had been at war, it docs not follow that it vviil 
be pei-ffK'tl}' safe for othor*^ to go in whose goods may bo a 



THE AUTHOR'S OBJECTS. 427 

snongcr temptation to cupidity than any thing 1 possessed 
When we get beyond the hostile population mentioned, we 
reach a veiy different race. On tne latter my chief hopisa 
at present rest. All of them, however, are willing aid 
anxious to engage in trade, and, while eager for this, none 
have ever been encouraged to cultivate the raw materials 
of commerce. Their country is well adapted for cotton; 
aiid I venture to entertain the hope that by distributing 
seeds of better kinds than that which is found indigenous, 
and stimulating the natives to cultivate it by affording 
them the certainty of a market for all they may produce, 
we may engender a feeling of mutual dependence between 
them and ourselves. I have a twofold object in view^, and 
bflieve that, by guiding our missionary labors so as to 
benefit our own country, we shall thereby more effectually 
and permanently benefit the heathen. Seven years were 
spent at Kolobeng in instructing my friends there; but, the 
country being incapable of raising materials for exportation, 
when the Boers made their murderous attack and scatteied 
the tribe for a season, none sympathized except a lew 
Christian friends. Had the people of Kolobeng been in 
the habit of raising the raw materials of English commerce, 
the outrage would have been felt in England; or, what is 
more likely to have been the case, the people would have 
raised themselves in the scale by barter, and have become, 
i'ke the Basutos of Moshcsh and people of Kuruman, pos- 
p'^ssed of fire-arms, and the Boers would never have made 
the attack at all. We ought to encourage the Africans to 
cultivate for our markets, as the most effectual means, next 
to the gospel, of their elevation. 

rt is in the hope of w^orking out this idea that I propose 
the formation of stations on the Zambesi beyond the Per 
iiiguose territory but having communication through them 
with the coast. A chain of stations admitting of easy and 
speed}'' intercourse, such as might be formed along the flank 
of the eastern ridge, would be in a favorable position foi 
carrying out the objects in view. The London Missionaiy 



428 ARRANGEMENTS ON LEAVING AFRICA. 

Society lias resolved to have a station among the Malsololo 
on the north bank, and another on the south among the 
]Matebele. The Church — Wesleyan, Baptist, and that mo9t 
energetic body, the Free Church — could each find desirable 
locations among the Batoka and adjacent tribes. Tho 
country is so extensive there is no fear of clashing. All 
da>=ises of Christians find that sectarian rancor soon diet 
:)ut when they are working together among and for the 
real heathen. Only let the healthy locality be searched 
for and fixed upon, and then there will be free scope to 
w^oik in the same cause in various directions, without thai 
loss of men which the system of missions on the unhealthy 
ccp.st entails. AVhile respectfully submitting the plan to 
these influential societies; I can positively state that, when 
fairly in the interior, there is perfect security for life ar:d 
property among a people who will at least listen and 
reason. 

Eight of ray men begged to be allowed to come as far 
as Kill mane, and, thinking that they would there see the 
ocean, I consented to their coming, though the food was so 
scarce in consequence of a dearth that they were compelled 
to suffer some hunger. They would fain have come far- 
ther; for when Sekeletu parted with them his orders were 
that none of them should turn until they had reached Ma 
Robert and brought her back with them. On my explain- 
ing the difficulty of crossing the sea, he said, " Wherever 
you lead, they must follow." As I did not know well how 
1 should get home myself, I advised them to go back to 
Tete, where food was abundant, and there aw^ait my return. 
I bought a quantity of calico and brass wire with ton of 
the smaller tusks which we had in our charge, a id sent 
tlio former back as clothing to ihose who remained at Tete. 
As there were still twenty tusks left, I deposited them 
with Colonel Nunes, that, in the event of any thing haji- 
pv')ning to prevent mj^ return, the impression might not be 
produced in tbe country that 1 had made away with fcJeko- 
Ictu's ivory I in8tru<t«d Colonel ^^unee in case ol" rny 



THE AUTHORS POSITION. 42? 

death, to sell the tusks and deliver the proceeds to my 
men ; but I intended, if my life should be prolonged, to 
purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in England witi» 
ray own money, and pay myself on my return out of the 
price of the ivory. This I explained to the men fuUy, and 
they, understanding the matter, replied, " ]Nay, father, you 
U'iil not die; you will return to take us back to Sekeletu." 
Tiiey promised to wait till I came back; and, on my part, 
I assured thnm that nothing but death would prevent my 
return. This I said, though while waiting at Kilimane a 
letter came from the Directors of the London Missionary 
Society stating that '^they were restricted in their power 
of aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread 
of the gospel, and that the financial circumstances of the 
society w^ere not such as to afford any ground of hope that 
it would be in a position, within any definite period, to 
enter upon untried, remote, and difficult fields of labor." 
This has been explained since as an effusion caused by tem- 
porary financial depression; but, feeling perfect confidence 
in my Makololo friends, 1 was determined to return and 
trust to their generosit}^ The old love of independence, 
which I had so strongly before joining the society, again 
returned. It was roused by a mistaken view of what this 
letter meant; for the dire«'',tors, immediately on my reach- 
ing home, saw the great importance of the opening, and 
entered with enlightened zeal on the w^ork of sending tlie 
gospet into the new field. It is to be hoped that their cou- 
jtituputs will not only enable them to begin, but to cany 
out tlxeir plans, and that no material depression will ever 
gaiu be permitted, nor appearances of spasmodic bene\o- 
Jonce recur. AVhile I hope to continue the same cordia) 
co-operation and friendship wdiich have always character, 
ized our intercourse, various reasons induce me to withdraw 
from pecuniary dependence on any society. I have done 
Bomelhing for the heathen; but for an aged mother, who haa 
still raore sacred claims than they, I have been able to do 
DotluTig, and a continuance of the connection would bo a 



430 VILLAGE OF KILIMANE. 

perpetuation of my inability to make any provision for hei 
declining years. In addition to " clergyman's sore throat/* 
which partially disabled me from the work, my father's 
death imposed new obligations; and, a fresh source of in- 
oorae having been opened to me without my asking, I had 
no hesitation in accepting what would enabie me to fulfil 
my duty to my aged parent as well as to the heathen. 

^'lie village of Kilimane stands on a great mud-bankj 
and is surrounded by extensive swamps and rice-grounds. 
The banks of the river are lined with mangrove-bushes, 
the roots of which, and the slimy banks on which they 
grow, are alternately exposed to the tide and sun. The 
houses are well built of brick and lime, the latter from 
Mozambique. If one digs down two or three feet in any 
part of the site of the village, he comes to water: hence 
the walls built on this mud-bank gradually subside; pieces 
are sometimes sawn off the doors bclovr, because the walls 
in which they are fixed have descended into the ground, so 
as to leave the floors higher than the bottom of the doors. 
It is almost needless to sav that Kilimane is very un- 
healthy. A man of plethoric temperament is sure to get 
fever, and concerning a stout person one may hear the 
remark, "Ah, he will not live loiiix; he is sure to die." 

After waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot, 
in which, however, by the kind attentions of Colonel 
Nunes and his nephew, I partially recovered from my ter- 
tian, II.M. brig '' Frolic" arrived oif Kilimane. As the 
village is twelve miles from the bar, and the weather was 
rough, she was at anchor ten days before we knew of her 
presence about seven miles from the entrance to the port. 
She brought abundant supplies for all my need, and £150 
to pay my passage home, from my kind friend Mr. Thomp- 
son, thD Society's agent at the Cape. The admiral at tho 
(/ape kindl}' sent an offer of a passage t» the Mauritius, 
which I thankfully accepted. Sekwebu and one attendant 
alone remained with me now. He was very intelligent, and 
had been of the greatest service to me: indeed, but for his 



ROUGH PASSAGE TO THE "IROLIC' ^ { 

eroovi sense, tact, and command of tlie language of tLe 
trioos through which we passed, I believe we should 
6carcely have succeeded in reaching the coast. I naturally 
felt grateful to him; and as his chief wished all my com- 
panions to go to England with me, and would probably bt; 
disappointed if none went, I thought it would be beneti(Mal 
for him to see the effects of civilization and report them to 
his countrymen. 1 wished also to make some return for his 
VQYj important services. Others had petitioned to come, 
but I explained the danger of a change of climate and food, 
and v/ith difficulty restrained them. Th'3 only one who 
now remained begged so hard to come on ooard ship that 1 
greatly regretted that the expense prevciited my acceding 
to his wish to visit England. I said to Lim, "You will die 
if you go to such a cold country as mine.'' ''That is 
nothing," he reiterated; "let mo die at your feet." 

When we parted' from our friends ac Kilimane, the sea 
on the bar was frightful even to the seamen. This was the 
first time Sekwebu had seen the sea. Captain Peyton had 
sent two boats in case of accident. The waves were so high 
that, when the cutter was in one trough and we in the 
pinnace in another, her mast was hid. We then mounted 
to the crest of the wave, rushed down the slope, and 
struck the water again with a blow which felt as if she 
had struck the bottom. Boats must be singularly well con- 
structed to be able to stand these shocks. Three breakers 
swept over us. The men lift up iheir oars, and a wave 
comes sweeping over all, giving the impression that Iho 
boat is going down; but she only goes beneath the top cf 
(•.he wave, comes out on the other side, and swings down 
the slope^and a man bales out the water with a bucket. 
Poor Sekwebu looked at me when these terrible seas broke 
over, and said, "Is this the way you go'/ Is this the way 
you go?" I smiled and said, "Yes; don't you see it is?" 
nnd tried to encourage him. He was well acquainted with 
canoes, but never had seen aught like this. When we 
reached the ship, — a tine, large brig of sixteen guns and a 



4S2 INSANITY OF SEKVVEBU. 

crew of one hundred and thirty, — she was rolling so that 
vve could see a part of her bottom. It was quite impossi- 
ble for landsmen to catch the ropes and climb up; so a 
chair was sent down, and we were hoisted in as ladioe 
usually are, and received bO hearty an English welcome 
from Captain Peyton and all on board that 1 felt myself at 
once at home in every thing except my own mother-tongue. 
1 seemed to know the language perfcctl}'^, but the Mords 1 
wanted would not come at my call. When I left England 
I had no intention ol returning, and directed my attention 
earnestly to the languages of Africa, paying none to 
English composition. With the exception of a short in- 
terval in Angola, I had been three and a half years without 
speaking English, and this, with thirteen years of previous 
partial disuse of my native tongue, made me feel sadly at 
a loss on board the ^'Frolic." 

We left Kilimane on the 12th of Jul}'-, and reached the 
Mauritius on the 12th of August, 1856. Sekwebu was 
picking up English, and becoming a favorite with both men 
and officers. He seemed a little bewildered, everything on 
board a man-of-war being so new and strange; but he re- 
marked to me several times, '' Your countrymen arc very 
agreeable," and, "What a strange country this is!— all water 
together !" He also said that he now understood why 1 
used the sextant. When we reached the Mauritius a 
steamer came out to tow us into the harbor. The constant 
strain on his untutored mind seemed now to reach a climax, 
for during the night he became insane. I thought at first 
that he was intoxicated. He had descended into a hont, 
nnd, when I attempted to go down and bring him into the 
3hi]), he ran to the stern and. said, ^'No! no! it is enough 
that I die alone. You mu«t not perish ; if you come, 1 
shaL throw myself into the water." Perceiving that his 
mind was affected, I said, "Now, Sekwebu, we are going 
to ]\la Eobert." This struck a chord in his bosom, and he 
Baid, "Oh, yes! where is she, and where is Eobert?" and 
he seemed to recover The officers proposed to secure him 



DEATH OP SEKWEiJU — VOYAGE HOME. 433 

by putting liim in irons; but, being a gentleman in his owe 
coantry, 1 objected, knowing that the insane often retain 
an impression of ill-treatment, and I could not bear to have 
it said in Sckeletu's country that I had chained one of hii 
principal men as they had seen slaves treated. I tried to get 
him on shore by day, but ho refosed. In the evening a fresh 
accession of insanity occurred : he tried to spear one of the 
crew, then leaped overboard, and, though he could swim 
well, pulled himself down hand under hand by the chain- 
cable. We never found the body of poor Sekwebu. 

At the Mauritius I was most hospitably received by 
Major-General C. M. Hay, and he generously constrained 
me to remain with him till, by the influence of the good 
.^-limate and quiet English comfort, I got rid of an enlarged 
spleen from African fever. In November I came up the Eed 
Sea, escaped the dagger of shipwreck through the admirable 
management of Captain Powell, of the Peninsular and 
Oriental Steam-Company's ship ^' Candia," and on the 
12th of December was once more in dear old England. 
The Company most liberally refunded my passage-money. 
I have not mentioned half the favors bestowed; but I may 
just add that no one has cause for more abundant grati- 
tude to his fellow-men and to his Maker than I have; and 
may God grant that the effect on my mind be such that I 
may be more humbly devoted to the service of the Author 
of all our mercies 1 



SO 



484 THE SECOND EXPEDITION. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE STAKTS TPON HIS SECOND EXPEDITION. 

To those wlio love tlie quiet charms of domestic life, this 
sixteen years spent from home, in the exploration of a wild 
country settled by still wilder men, would seem to have been 
sufficient. Dr. Livingstone, however, remained in Great 
Britain only about a year and a half, during which he pre- 
pared and published tlie volume of Mission arnj Travels and 
Researches in South Africa, which have furnished tho 
material for the preceding portion of our volume. During 
this stay in Europe, the interest excited by his researches 
found its expression in various ways. The great Univer- 
sities of England conferred degrees upon him, the Geogra- 
phical Society f^ted him, foreign associations sent him 
medals and diplomas, and the Queen invited him to a pri- 
vate audience. Another expedition was organized with 
Government aid, to explore the sources of the Zambesi, 
and the history of this expedition was given by Dr. Living- 
stone after his return, in 18G4, in a voluminous English 
work, the material and important portions of which form 
the basis of the second part of the present volume. The 
objects of this expedition, as explicitly stated by the Eng- 
lish Government, were to extend the knowledge already 
attained of the geographj' and mineral and agricultural 
resources of Eastern and Central Africa ; to improve our 
acquaintance with the inhabitants, and to endeavor to 
engage them to appl}' themselves to industrial pursuits and 
to the cultivation of their lands, while it was hoped that 
by encouraging the natives to occupy themselves in the 
development of their country, a considerable advance 
might be made towards the extinction of the slave trade. 
The expedition left England on the 10th of Marcli, 1858, 
in the Government steamer " Pearl," and reached the East 
coast of Africa on the following May. The Pearl was fur- 



** MA ROBERT." 435 

fiished with a small steam launch, carried in three sections, 
and called "Ma Robert," after Mrs, Livingstone, to whom 
the native Africai*s, according to their custom, had given 
the name of Ma (mother). After exploring the months of 
the Zambesi, they proceeded up the stream. The country 
was rich and well adapted to growing sugar cane. But 
few inhabitants were met, and they were all blacks, and 
the majority of them Portuguese "colonos," or serfs. They 
manifested no fear of white men, and stood in groups on 
the land, o^azina; in astonishment at the steamers. All were 
eager traders, and in their light canoes brought supplies 
of every kind of fruit and food they possessed : honey, 
l)eeswax, fowls, rice and meal. When the channel became 
too shallow for the Pearl, that %^essel returned, and the 
expedition pushed on its way. For sixtj^ or seventj' miles 
before reaching Mazaro, the scenery is tame and uninter- 
esting, but on approaching Mazaro it improves. The Lan- 
■deens or Zulus are the owners of the rioht bank of the 
Zambesi, and every year appear to receive their tribute 
from the Portuguese. At Shupanga they wooded up with 
African ebonj'^ and lignum vitae. This last tree here attains 
an immense size, sometim.es as much as four feet in dia- 
meter. The India-rubber tree is also plentiful, and the 
indigo grows wild on the banks of the stream. On the ITtk 
of August, 1858, the expedition started for Tette, The 
channel was a difficult one, and the black pilot, John 
Scissors, frequently ran the vessel aground. The furnaces 
of the Ma Robert consumed so much v/ood, that obtaining 
the supplies caused constant detentions. Steam was no 
labor-saving appliance, and boats or canoes would have 
ilone much better at half the expense and labor. At Shir- 
ambe Dembe, on the right bank, was a ruined settlement. 
Near was a magniJScent Boabab tree, its trunk hollowed 
out into a good-sized hut, with the bark growing in the in- 
side as well as on the outside. This is a peculiarity of this 
tree, when it is hollowed out, the bark grows so as to line 
the inside of the cavity, as well as the outside of the trunk. 



4SS TETTE AND ITS POPU'LATIOlSr, 

The river here spreads ont to a width of three or four 
miles, with many islaads, so that the navigation is difficult. 
Within a few miles of Tette are the rbii^g of stone hovises, 
which were used by the Portuguese settlers, and destroyed 
\)j the hostile natives, 

Tette stands on a siiCGession' of low sandstone ridges, 
on the right bank of the Zambesi, which is here 960 yard» 
wide. Shallow ravines^ running in the direction of tlie 
liver, form the streets, the honses being built on the ridges- 
between.. It is a Portuguese station, and has a fort and a 
churchv The au-mber of the white inhabitants is small, the 
military element preponderating, the soldiers being gen- 
erally convicts sent from PortugaL The moral condition; 
©f the population can be easily imagined, since both officers" 
and soldiers seldom receive any pa}'' from the home gov- 
ernment, and are forced to relj'' therefore upon themselves 
for support. The natives here ascribed the drought pre- 
vailing to the doctor's rain-gauge he had set up in the 
garden. They are very superstitious. The earth, the air 
and the water are full of spirits to them. Being composed 
of mixtures of various native races, they have the super- 
stitions of them all. They worship the serpent. When a 
man has his hair cut, he burns it, or buries it secretly, lest 
it should fall into the hands of a witch, and be used as a 
charm to torment him. Though the mango grows here 
luxuriantly, and its fruit supplies them w^ith food for some 
four months of the year, yet they will never plant a mango 
tree, from the superstition that he who does so will soon 
die. Even amonj; the native Portusjuese of Tette it is 
believed that the man who plants coffee will never after- 
w-ards be happy ; yet they drink coffee. 

Here the winter begins in May, and the trees commence 
to shed their leaves, remaining bare until the rains come in 
November. Several species of trees seem to anticipate the 
coming of the rainy season, by a sort of instinct ; and as 
early as October, while the dry season is at its height, and 
BOt even a drop of dew forms, they begin to vegetate buds. 



MINERAL RESOURCES. 43*? 

"Hie trees of the Arctic Zone are said also to anticipate tlie 
season, and whil« the ground is still frozen begin to dis- 
play'- green buds. The Portug'Uese are kind masters to 
their slaves, but the half castes are very cruel, so that ii 
proverb of the pl-ace runs, " God made white men, and 
God m-ade black men, but the devil made half castes," 
Most of the native Africans are natural traders, and love 
trade more for the sake of trading than for what they make 
by it. T!ie dice doctor is an important member of the 
community, being consulted by the Portuguese as well as 
by the natives. Part of his business is to discover thieves. 
This he does by booking at the place, then throwing his 
dice, waiting a few 'da3^s for consideration, and then telling 
who the thieves arc. He is generally right, for his period 
of consideration is spent in consulting his agents and 
spies, who are scattered all over the village. Since the 
introduction of guns, there have arisen gun doctors, who 
s-ell medicine to make good marksmen. 

Indigo and senna grow here naturally. A little cotton 
is cultivated by the natives, for the manufacture of a 
coarse clotk. Sugar cane is also cultivated, and sugar is 
made,- but by a most primitive process. Magnetic iron ore 
is found near Tette, and coal in abundance. Within a couple 
of days of Tette, gold is found in the river beds. The sun 
is excessively hot and feels sharp in Africa ; but probably 
from the giHjater dryness of the atmosphere, we never 
heard of a single case of sunstroke, so common in India. 

After making a trip to the cataract of Morumbwa, in 
which great difficulties had to be overcome, from the wild 
character of the oountrj'-, and the intense heat of the 
weather, they returned by a detour, and on the way back 
were one evening ontertained by a concert of native musi- 
cians with their wild and not unpleasant music on the 
marimba, an instrument formed of bars of hard wood 
of varying breadth and thickness, laid on different-sized 
hollow calabashes, and tuned to give the notes. At the 
end of the dry s-eason everything is parched and dust}'. 
37* 



ids THE NATIVE LANGUAGES. 

The air is full of blue haze, aud very sultry. When thd 
rains begin the face of the country changes with wonderful 
rapidity. Though the atmosphere is not moist and hot- 
house like, as it is on the West coast, yet the herbage 
springs up quickty; the air is so clear that one can sec dis- 
tinctly at great distances; the landscape is full of light; 
and in the early morning, before the heat of noon, every- 
thing is filled with a delightful freshness. The young foliage 
of various trees, more especially on the highlands, comes 
out brown, pale red, or pink, like the hues of autumn 
foliage^ and as the leaves grow thej' become a light, fresh 
green^ while white, scarlet, pink and yellow flowers in pro- 
fusion delight the eye with their brilliancy of color. The 
birds and insects gather in crowds, the butterflies flit about,, 
and an African Christmas is like an English May. It was 
long ago remarked that in Africa everything- was contrarj^; 
" wool grows upon the heads of men, and hair on the backs 
of sheep. '^ The men frequently wear their hair long^ the 
women scarcely ever. Where there are cattle, the women 
till the land, i)lant the corn, and build the huts. The men' 
sta}^ at home to sow, spin, weave, gossip and milk the cows. 
The men pay a dowry for their wives, instead of receiving 
one with them. These inhabitants of the mountains are 
feeble, spiritless and cowardly, when compared even with 
their own countr3'men of the plains. Some of the Africans 
believe that at death their souls pass into the bodies of 
apes. Most writers suppose that the blacks are all savages; 
nearly all the blacks believe the whites to be cannibals. 
The "bogie" of the one is black, of the other white. Tlie 
natives of Africa all speak a beautiful language, and have 
no Yvtlgar patois ; owing to the difference of idiom, very 
few Europeans acquire an acurate knowledge of African 
tongues, unless they l>egin to learn them when yoiTug. A 
complaint of the poverty of the language is often only a 
sure proof of the ignorance of the complainer, and gross 
mistakes are often made b}' the most experienced. A grave 
professor put down in a scientific work the word " Kaia '^ 



THE SEASONS IN AFRICA. 439 

as the native name of a oeitaiu lizard. The word 
means simply " I don't know," and was the answer lie 
had received. 

Dr. Kirk divides the year into three seasons — a cold, a 
hot, and a rainy season. The cold lasts through May, 
June, and July; the hot, througli August, September, and 
October ; the rainy through the rest of tlie 3-ear. In an 
average year the fall of rain amounts to about thirt3'-five 
inches. On many days it does not rain at all, and rarely 
a,ll day ; some da3'S have onl^^ a shower. At times, intervals 
of a week or a fortnight pass without rain, and then crops 
suffer from the sun. These partial dconghts liappen in De- 
cember and January. The heat appears to increase to a 
certain point in the different latitudes, so as to necessitate 
a change, by some analogous law to that which regulates 
the intensity of the cold in other countries. Here, after a 
series of da3^s when the heat increases, reaching, on the 
hottest, about 103^ in the shade, a break occurs, and a 
thunder-shower cools the air. At Kuruman, when the 
thermometer stood above 84^, rain might be expected ; at 
Koloberg, 9G^ was the point at which we looked for a 
storm. 

The Zambesi I'ises in a flood twice a }'ear. The first is a 
partial one, and reaches its height about the end of Decem- 
ber or first of Januar3' ; the second, and larger one, occurs 
after the river has inundated the interior, similar to the 
overflow of the Nile, and, at Tette, this takes place in 
March. The river rises suddenl3% the water is discolored 
and impure, with a four-mile current in some places. In a 
day or two, after the first rush of water is passed, the cur- 
rent becomes more equally- spread over the whole bed of 
the river, and resumes it usual rate in the channel, though 
the flood continues. At other times the water of the Zam- 
besi is ver}'' pure, being found by tlie photographer nearl3' 
ias good as distilled water for the nitrate of silver bath. 

A good deal of fever prevails in March and April, if con- 
siderable intervals occur between the rains, for then large 



440 THE AFRICAN FEVER. 

surfaces of mud and deca3ung vegetable matter are exposed 
to the hot suu. The attacks of fever are, in general, not 
long, though thej^ pull the patient down rapidly. When the 
fever is checked, strength is as quickly restored. What- 
ever may be the cause of the fever, we observed that w^e 
were often affocted at the same time, as if from malaria, 
and particularly so during a north wind. Daily doses of 
quinine did not appear an always effective preventive ; the 
best known is constant occupation, and plenty of whole- 
some food. Though quinine was not a j^reventive, it was 
found invaluable fur a cure as soon as pains in the back, 
sore bones, headache, yawning, quick and intermittent 
pulse, pulsations of the jugulars, with suffused eyes, hot 
skin and foul tongue, began. 

The effects of African fever on certain minds are very 
curious. Cheerfulness disappears, and sadness sets in. 
The liveliest jokes cannot raise a smile. The temper is ir- 
ritable and peevish. Nothing is right. 

As it was found impossible to take the launch, with only 
ten horse power, through Kebrabasa, a demand was sent to 
government for a stronger vessel, and it was determined to 
attempt to explore the river Shire, a northern tributary of 
the Zambesi, wliich joins it about a hundred miles from the 
sea. W"e could not learn from any record that the Shire 
had ever been ascended by Europeans. As far, therefore, 
as we are concerned, the exploration was absolutely new. 
The Portuguese believe that the Manganja were brave and 
blood-thirsty savages. We started in January, 1859. 
Some duck weed was met at first, but not enough to impede 
navigation. Around Mount Morambala none of it was 
found. At a village of a chief named Tingane, at least five 
hundred natives were collected on the shore, and ordered 
us to stop. Dr. Livingstone went ashore, and, explaining 
the objects of the expedition, Tingane became at once 
friendly. Tingane was an elderl}^, well-made man, gray- 
lieaded, and over six feet high. Though somewhat excited 
by our presence, he readily complied with c»ur request to 



J 



UP THE SHIRE. 441 

call his people together, in order that all might know what 
our objects were. 

The dialect here closely resembles that spoken at Senna 
and Tette. The delight of exploring a hitherto unexplored 
river, must be felt to be appreciated. After having ad- 
vanced, in a straight line, one hundred miles, though the 
wanderings of the course made the distance at least twice 
as much, further progress by the steamer was arrested, in 
15° 55' south, by magnificent cataracts, which were chris- 
tened " The Murchison," after Sir Roderick Murchison. 
After remaining here a few days, hoping to take an obser- 
vation for longitude, but prevented by the cloudy weather, 
the expedition returned to Tette. 

In the middle of March (1859), a second expedition up 
the Shire started. The natives were now friendly. Ami- 
cable relations were formed with Chibisa, a chief whose vil- 
laije was about ten miles below the cataract. Chibisa was 
a remarkabl3^ shrewd man. A great deal of fighting had 
fallen to his lot, but he said he was alwa3's in the right, the 
other party always began it. He was also a firm believer 
in the divine right of kings. He was an ordinary man, he 
said, when his father died and left him the chieftainship, 
but as soon as he succeeded to his high office, he was 
conscious of power passing into his head and down his 
back ; he felt it enter, and knew he was a chief, clothed 
with authority and possessed of wisdom, and people began 
to fear and reverence him. He mentioned this as a fact no 
more to be doubted than any other fact of natural history. 

Leaving the vessel opposite Chibisa's village, Dr. Living- 
stone, witii a party, started on foot for Lake Shirwa, and 
travelled in a northerly direction, over a mountainous 
country. They had trouble with their guides, and finally 
pushed on without tliem, or with crazy ones, for, oddly 
enough, they were often under great obligations to the 
madmen of different villages. These poor fellows sj^mpa- 
thized with the explorers, probably from the belief that 
they belonged to their own class, and, uninfluenced by the 



442 DISCOVERING LAKE NYASSA. 

public opinion of their own countiymen, they really pitied 
the strangers, and often guided them faithfully, when no 
one else could be hired to do so for love or money. 

On the 18th of April, tlie}^ discovered Lake Shirwa, a 
considerable body of bitter water, containing leeches, 
fishes, crocodiles, and hippopotami. It is brackish, proba- 
bly from having no outlet, and appears to be deep, witli 
islands in it. The northern end of Shirwa has not been 
seen, though it has been passed. Its length is from 60 to 
80 miles, and its breadth 20 miles. It stands about 1800. 
feet above the sea, and its water tastes like a weak solution 
of Epsom salts. The countrj- round is beautiful, moun- 
tains about eio-ht thousand feet above the sea level stand 
near the eastern shore, and on the west stands Mount 
Zomba, tOOO feet high, and some 20 miles long. Return- 
ing b}" a different route, they reached Tette on the 23d of 
June. 



CHAPTER XXXIY. 

DOCTOR LIVINGSTONE DISCOVERS LAKE NYASSA. 

About the middle of August, the expedition started 
again up the Sliire, with the intention of journeying on foot 
to the north of Lake Shirwa, in search of Lake Nyassa. 
The Shire drains a rich valle}" about twenty miles wide. 
For the first twenty miles the hills, on the left bank, are 
close to the river ; then comes Morambala, " the lofty 
watch-tower," a detached mountain, 500 yards from the 
river's brink, with steep sides, on the west, 4000 feet high. 

Be3ond ]\Ioraml)ala, the Shire winds through an exten- 
sive marsh. Ascending the river, they passed a deep 
stream, about thirty 3'ards wide, flowing in from a body o.^ 
water several miles broad. The natives were eno^aoed oik 
it, filling their canoes with the roots of the lotus, called 
Nyika, which, roasted or boiled, resemble chestnuts, and 




A HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP. 



HIPP0P0TA3IUS TRAPS. 445 

are extensively used as food. At a village called Mboma 
(16^, 56', 30" S.), they obtained supplies of rice, very 
cheap, and a native serenaded them b}^ singing wild, but 
jnot unmusical, songs, accompanying himself upon a native 
species of fiddle, with one string. At sunrise, the water 
of the river was ^0°, or 23° warmer than the air, so that 
fogs rose from the stream like steam. Both banks of the 
stream are dotted with hippopotamus traps, over every 
track these animals make in going up out of the water to 
graze. The hippopotamus feeds on grass alone, and when 
there is danger, only at night. Its enormous lips act like 
a mowing machine, and form a sort of path in the grass as 
it feeds. Its flesh is rather coarse, and among some of the 
tribes as much objection is' made to eating it as there is to 
eating pork among Hebrews. The musquitoes were very 
bad, and the steamer being leaky, supplies of them were 
had on board, as well as from the outside. These insects are 
so numerous in malarious spots, that their presence is con- 
sidered an evidence that the place is unhealthy. There are 
said to be none of them on the uplands. 

A few miles above Mboma lies the village of the chief, 
Tingane (16°, 44', 3" S.), whose people were now friendly. 
The Ruo (16°, 31', 0" S.) is said to have its source in the 
Milanje Mountains, and joins the Shire some distance 
above Tingane's. A short way beyond the Ruo lies the 
Elephant Marsh, or Nyanja Mukulu, frequented by vast 
herds of elephants. Eight hundred in sight at once were 
counted by the expedition. They showed their sagacity by 
choosing this stronghold, since the hunters cannot get at 
them in the marsh. When the steamer first appeared, they 
were not acquainted with it, and not afraid of it. Killing 
one or two, however, soon taught them to avoid it. The 
African elephant differs from the Asiatic, especially in the 
convex shape of his forehead, and the enormous size of his 
ears. In Asia many of the males and all the females have 
no tusks, while in Africa both sexes are provided with these 
weapons. In the two species, the enamel of the teeth is 
38 



446 elephant's tusks. 

arranged difereiitlj^ New teeth come up constantly where 
a mail's wisdom teeth grow, and being pushed forward in 
the jaw b}^ those coming afterwards, replace those in front 
which are worn out, thus keeping the molars sound by re- 
newal, until the animal reaches a great age. The tusks of 
elephants from dry, rock}'- countries are more dense and 
heavier than those of animals living in wet and marshy 
places, but these last attain the greater size. The Shire 
marshes support prodigious numbers of many kinds of 
water fowl. 

The Borassus, though not an oil-bearing palm, is a use- 
ful tree. The fibrous pulp about the large nuts is sweet 
and fruit}^ and is eaten by men and elephants. The nuts 
arc buried until the}'- sprout, and are then dug up and 
eaten, resembling coarse potatoes. Wine is also made 
from the juice; when fresh, it is like champagne, and not 
intoxicating ; though it becomes very much so by standing. 
On the 25th of August, the expedition reached Dakanamoio 
Island, opposite tlie perpendicular cliff upon which Chi- 
bisa's village stands. Here a fine male hornbill (Buceros 
cristafus) of the largest species, fell to the ground from 
fear at the report of a gun. It was captured, and kept. 
Its mate would not desert it, but flew about the boat, 
inviting him to join her. This she repeated in the evening. 
The poor captive refused to eat, and in five days died of 
grief, since no internal injury could be detected in 
examinino^ him after death. 

On the 28th of August, 1859, the expedition left the 
vessel, and set out to discover Lake Nyassa. The party 
consisted of forty-two persons, four whites, thirt3^-six 
Makololo, and two guides. The course crossed t*he valley 
in a north-easterly direction, and an hour's march brought 
them to the foot of the Manganja Hills, up which their 
toilsome course lay. The first halt, after a weary march, 
was at Makolongwe, the village of Chitimba, which, like 
all Manganja villages, is surrounded with an impenetrable 
hedge of poisonous euphorbia. Here an active trade with 



THE MANGANJA COUNTRY. 44'? 

the natives was soon opened. The night was passed in 
the open air, there being no mosquitoes on the hills, and 
the next day they gained the upper terrace, 3000 feet 
aboA^e the sea. The plateau lies west of the Milanje 
Mountains, and its north-eastern border slopes down to 
Lake Shirwa. After a week spent in crossing the high- 
lands in a northerly direction, the expedition descended 
into the Upper Shire vallej^ which is nearly 1200 feet 
above the sea level. 

The Manganja country is finelj' watered. The natives 
live in villages, each with its own head man, though he 
may rule over several adjacent villages. The people are 
regarded as his children. All the pett}- chiefs of a certain 
district owe allegiance to a paramount chief, called the 
Rondo, or Rundo. They pay him an annual tribute, and 
one of the tusks of every elephant killed; and in turn, it is 
his duty to protect them when attacked. Mankokwe is 
the Rundo of the southern portion of the highlands ; but 
he is a besotted person, who never visits them as his father 
did, so that the tribute is seldom paid, notwithstanding 
that they all acknowledge that it is their duty to pay it, 
and that he is their Rondo. Part of the Upper Shire 
valley has a woman Rondo, named Nyango ; and in her 
dominions women rank higher, and ave more respectfully 
treated than elsewhere. This natural growth of a feudal 
S3^stem is most interesting, as showing the tendency of 
political development, and giving us a key to the compre- 
hension of our own political histor3^ In Nyango's country 
the painful -subjection of women was not seen. The head 
man of the first of her villages, entered by the expedition, 
asked that his wife should come to see the compass and 
other curiosities. He always consulted her before con- 
cluding a bargain, and was greatl}^ influenced by her 
judgment. 

The Boalo in the villages is an open place, to which the 
expedition always proceeded ; and then, seated on the mats 
Bpread for the purpose, commenced the interview with the 



448 MANGANJA INDUSTRIES. 

head man and his counsellors. The proceedings are 
alwa^'s conducted with a great deal of punctilious eti- 
quette. The Manganja are industrious ; the}^ work in 
iron, cotton, and basket-making, beside cultivating the soil. 
The men, women and children of the villages all turn out 
to work in the fields. They clear the ground by cutting 
down the trees with their little axes of soft native iron, 
then burning the trunks and branches, and spreading the 
ashes on the soil. The corn is then planted among the 
stumps, which are left to rot. Large crops are raised of 
the mapira, or Egyptian dura (Holciis sorghum), millet, 
beans, ground-nuts ; also patches of 3'ams, rice, pumpkins, 
cucumbers, cassava, sweet potatoes, tobacco, hemp, or bang 
(Cannabis sativa). Maize is grown the year round, and 
cotton is cultivated in almost ever}'- village. Three kinds 
of cotton were found here, two foreign and one native. 
The tonje manga, or foreign cotton, is as good as the best 
upland. It is perennial, but requires to be planted once 
in three 3'ears. The tonje cadja, or native cotton, is 
shorter in staple, and feels like wool. It has to be planted 
every year. A great deal of cotton is raised, cleaned, 
spun and woven, though the processes are the slow and 
rude ones. 

Iron ore is dug, smelted, and worked. Each village has 
its smelters and blacksmiths. They make axes, spears, 
needles, arrow heads, bracelets and anklets. A hoc about 
two pounds in weight is sold for about eight cents' worth 
of calico. In villages near Lake Shirwa, a great deal of 
pottery is made, and decorated with plumbago, found in 
the hills. Baskets are manufactured from the bamboo, or 
the fibres of the buaze ; and an active trade is carried on 
between the various villages. The men are intelligent and 
fine-looking. They take great pride in the fanciful deco- 
ration of their hair, wearing it in various styles. They 
wear rings on their fingers and thumbs, beside throatlets, 
bracelets, and anklets of brass, copper, and iron. The 
pepele, or upper lip ring of the women, is the most extra- 



1 



FASHION IN AFRICA. 449 

ordinary ornament. The upper lip is pierced, and a pin 
inserted to keep the hole open. Then larger pins are used, 
until a hole large enough to contain a ring two inches in 
diameter is made. This process may take years before this 
result is reached. For the poorer classes, the rings are 
made of bamboo, for the rich of ivory or tin. The tin 
ones are often like a small dish, the ivory ones not unlike 
a napkin ring. No woman appears in public without it, 
except in times of mourning. When advised to throw 
them away, since it made them ugly, they answered : 
"Kodi! Really I It is the fashion." An old chief, Chin- 
sunse, being asked why they wore such a thing, replied, 
with evident surprise : '* For beauty, to be sure ! Men 
liave beards and whiskers ; women have none ; and what 
kind of creature would a woman be without whiskers, and 
W'ilhout the pepele ? She would have a mouth like a man, 
and no beard ; ha ! ha ! " On the Rovuma, men were 
found wearing the pepele. 

The Manganja brew beer, and drink it largely. The 
grain is made to vegetate, dried in the sun, and pounded 
into meal, then gently boiled. When new, it is sweet and 
refreshing. They have an ordeal, by drinking a poison, 
muave. Persons suspected of crime drink it ; if the 
stomach rejects it, they are innocent; if not, they are 
guilt3\ Chiefs are not exempted from this ordeal. What 
the muave is, is not known ; the natives were reluctant to 
tell. They wear strips of palm leaf round the head, arms, 
neck, legs, and breast, as a sign of mourning for the dead ; 
and keep them on until they drop off from decay. They 
believe in a supreme being, called Nipambe, or Morungo, 
and in a future state. 

Above the cataracts, the Shire is a broad deep river, 
with but little current. Lake Nyassa was discovered a 
little before noon, September 16th, 1859. Its southern end 
is in 14° 25' S. lat., and 35° 30' E. long. One of the great 
slave paths from the interior passes here, others cross the 
Shire a little below. The Manganja chiefs sell their 
38* 



450 RETURN TO THE SHIP. 

people ; they are ashamed of it, and say they sell only 
criminals, but others are really sold. The price of a man 
is four 3'ards of cotton cloth, three for a woman, and two 
for a child ; the victims are taken to the Portuguese 
at Mozambique, Iboe and QuilUmane. 

The Manganja were more suspicious and less hospitable 
than the tribes on the Zambesi. They disbelieved the 
objects of the expedition, ascribing naturally to the party 
their own motives. From the numbers of aged people 
met on the highlands, and the increase of mental and 
physical vigor experienced by the members of the party in 
passing from the lowlands to the highlands, it was inferred 
that the climate was salubrious, and fitted for Europeans. 
The stay at the Lake was short ; and on the 6th of Octo- 
ber, 1859, after a land journey of forty days, the party 
returned to the ship. 



CHAPTER XXXY. 

DOCTOR LIVINGSTONE REACHES THE VICTORIA FALLS. 

Having sent back to England for another steam launch. 
Ma Robert having been found unfitted for the purpose in- 
tended, the expedition did not get ready to start again 
until May. The Makololo, whom Dr. Livingstone had 
brought back with him from his expedition of 1856, as 
told in Chapter XII L, and who had remained near Tette 
during his absence in England, and to whose guardianship 
and services were due the accomplishment of the journey 
we have just narrated, which all the Portuguese at Tette 
had previously pronounced impossible, were now to be 
carried to their homes. Some of these Makololo had 
formed domestic ties, and preferred to remain. On the 
15th of May, the expedition started, onlj' one woman 



I 



AFRICANS BESEMBLING EGYPTIANS. 451 

joining it. The expedition commenced with short 
marches. Some of the men deserted every night, to 
return to tlreir children at Tette ; for <;hildren are the 
strongest ties, even to slaves. By the time the party had 
reached the Kebrabasa hills, nearly a third of the natives, 
or thirty men, had turned back. At Defvve^s village, near 
where the ship lay on her first ascent, were found two 
Mfumos, or head men, the son and son-in-law of the former 
chief. A sister's son has much more clmnce of succeeding 
to the chieftainship than the chief's own ofTspring, it being 
unquestionable that the sister^s child has th'e family blood. 
The men are all marked across the nose, and up the 
middle of the forehead with sliort horizontal scars ; and a 
single brass earring, two or three inches in diameter, like 
those of the ancient Egyptians, is worn by them. Some 
wear their hair long, like the ancient Assyrians and Egyp- 
tians, and a few have eyes slanting inward, like the 
Chinese. There is so little difference in the languages 
spoken by the tribes of this region, that they actually 
belong to the same family. The natives in the valley of 
Zibah the}^ found wealthier than those the}^ had passed; 
they have more cloth, ornaments, food and luxuries. 
Eowls, eggs, sugar canes, sweet potatoes, ground-nuts, 
turmeric, tomatoes, chillies, rice, mapira (HoJcus sorghum)^ 
and maize were offered for sale in large quantities. The 
raapira ma}^ be called the corn of the countr}-. It is known 
as Kaffir and Guinea corn in the south and west ; as dura 
in Egypt, and badjery in India ; the grain is round and 
white, or reddish white, about the size of hemp seed. 
Several hundred grains form a massive ear, on a stalk as 
thick as a walking stick, and from eiglit to eighteen feet 
high. Tobacco, hemp and cotton were also cultivated, as 
they are all througli Kebrabasa. Here, as in the Manganja 
hills, in every village men were spinning and weaving 
cotton of excellent quality. 

After passing through the thirty-five to forty miles of 
Kebrabasa hills, the party, on the Tth of June, I860, 



452 AETTEPFTUBE WlTB A LIOJ?. 

entered itpoK tbe Chicova plaiR*, At CMcova the Zambesi 
expands, and i'e&uiBe& the size and appearance it had at 
Tette. The party novf entering on a cmmlry where lions 
were nnmeroii», the eamp at nigbt was better arrauged and 
guarded, a dozen ftre& being kindled. Our illnstration 
shows- the narrow escape made by one of the party in a 
lion hnnt. A% niglvt the natives amuse themselves with 
iBUsi'c, talk and excited po.litical discussions, chiefly con- 
cermng the bad government of the chiefs y and here, a» 
elsewhere, there are two parties. 

In marchiag, the party rose at five, or as^ soon as dawn 
appeared; took a cop of tea and a biscuit, packed the 
basgrajre and cooking, utensils, and by sunrise were on the 
wa}'. About nine a. m., they stopped for breakfast. To 
save time, thi» wa» gei>erally carried cooked, and had 
»imply to be warmed. After breakfast, the march begaw 
again; and, atfter a resi in the middle of the 6sij, ended 
early in the afternoon. The average is^ two and a half 
miles, in a stra?igh't line, and seldom* took n^ore than five or 
six hour& of actual travel This, in a bot elimate, is as- 
much as can be? doi>e without exhaustion. Experience 
shows that the Europeans bad a greater power of endu^ 
fance than the hardiest of tlie meat-eating: Africans. 

The Chicova plains are verv fertile, and formerTr sni?' 
ported a large populatioip, which has^ been clecimated by 
war» and slavery. The Afrkan wofnen? are particular 
about not taking tlieir water' for cooking from the river 
directly, but dig holes in the sand near the bank, and take 
the water which collects in them* after filtering through the 
sand. This custom is common in the Zambesi, the 
Rovuma, and Lake Nyassa,, and the Portuguese at Tette 
liave adopted it. The filth of the villages is deposited 
about them for nine months in the year, and the rains wash 
it all into the streams.^ Euroi>eans in Africa who use the 
river water, without this precaution, suffer from disease. 
For the English navy on the coast, the water is now all 
condensed, with excellent results in the better health of 
the mexk 



I 



THE JUNCTION OF THE ZAMBESI AND LOANGWA. 455 

The sight of white men seems to be naturally terrible to 
the native Africans. When a village is entered for the' 
first time, the children, the women, the fowls and dogs all 
run away, and the quiet scene becomes one of hubbub, 
until the native interpreters explain. To the wild animals, 
the scent of man appears to excite more fear even than his 
sight. The sport is all gone for the hunter who gets to 
the windward of his game. In Chicova, deposits of coal 
are found, and the natives were taught that it would burn 
— a fact of which they were at first incredulous. 

On the 16th of June, the partj^ arrived at the Senga, a 
flourishing village lying at the foot of Mount Motemwa, 
and under the control of Manyame. Chikwanitsela, or 
Sekuanangila, is the chief ruler of about fift}^ miles of the 
northern bank of the Zambesi, at this place. He lives on 
the southern bank, and has there a still more extensive 
kingdom. On the 20th of June, they reached a spot 
through which Dr. Livingstone had passed in his journey 
from the west to the east coast. The countrj' north of the 
mountains, here in sight from the Zambesi, is called Senga, 
and its inhabitants Asenga or Basenga, but appear to be 
of the same stock as the rest of the Manganja and Maravi. 
Formerly all the Manganja were united under their great 
chief Undi, whose power extended from Lake Shirwa to 
the river Loangwa; but at his death, his empire became 
disintegrated, and a large part of it on the Zambesi was 
absorbed by the Banyai. On the 26th of June, the party 
arrived at Zambo, on the left hand of the Loangwa, near 
the ruins of some ancient Portuguese houses. The site 
chosen for the settlement was admirable, at the junction 
of the Zambesi and Loangwa rivers. 

The native hunter in Africa knows where he can find 
water by the animals he sees. The presence of the gems- 
buck, duiker or diver, springbucks, or elephants, is no proof 
that water is near, since these animals roam over extensive 
ranges of country. The zebra, pallah, buffalo, or rhinoce- 
ros, show by their tracks that water is near, since they 



456 THE HONEY BIRD. 

never stray far from it. The honey bird is one of the 
singular birds of Africa ; as soon as he sees a man, he flies 
towards him, and having attracted his attention, leads him 
to a nest of wild honey. As the party penetrated into the 
interior, where no firearms had been used, the game in- 
creased greatly. An instance of what was actually seen, 
will show this. On the 3d of July, in the morning, a herd 
of elephants passed within fifty yards of the party ; next a 
large flock of Guinea fowls were seen ; then three varieties 
of francolins ran across the path ; then hundreds of turtle 
doves rose to the trees, as the party passed. Guinea fowls, 
francolins, turtle doves, ducks and geese, are the game 
birds of this region. At sunrise they passed a herd of 
pallahs ; next one of waterbucks ; then another of doe 
koodoos. About breakfast time a herd of buffaloes were 
met ; after breakfast two elephants, with a herd of zebras, 
and another of waterbucks, Avhile in the distance many 
antelopes grazing ; beyond tliese three cow buffaloes with 
their young, and on the edge of the forest a troop of 
monkeys. In the early afternoon, more buffaloes and 
other animals are seen. 

On the 6th of July, they camped on the left bank of the 
Chongwe, where it comes through a gap in the hills, and 
is twenty feet wide. The next day they passed through a 
thorny jungle. Here the party frequently met families 
moving from one place to another, marching in single file, 
the women carrying the heaviest loads of household furni- 
ture, etc. These natives met the party without fear, or 
an3^ of the cringing so common down the river, where 
slavery was established. Reaching the Kafue, they crossed 
it on the llth, and were then in the country of the Bawe. 
Here barbed fi.-h-hooks, of native make, were seen. The 
people here are of Batoka origin, and call themselves 
Batonga {Independents) or Balengi, and their language 
differs only slightly from that of the Bakoa, who live 
between the rivers Kafue and Loangwa. The chief of this' 
district is called Nehomokela, a hereditary ti^le. Immense 



THE TRIBE OP " GO-NAKEDS." 457 

crops of mapiia (Holcus sorghum) are raised. The men 
are skilful hunters, and kill elephants and buffaloes with 
their long heavy spears. On the 14th of Jul^^ the party 
left the river, at the mountain range. On the islands, and 
on the left bank of the Zambesi, all the wa}^ from the river 
Kafue, there is a large population ; the right bank is 
equall^^ fertile, but depopulated, because Moselckatse does 
not allow an}'^ one to live there, who might raise an alarm 
wiien he sends his marauders beyond. The Bawe were 
very friendlj'^ ; some of them call themselves the *' Baenda 
pezi," or " Go-nakeds," their only clothing being a coat of 
red ochre. The vicinit}^ of the villages is usuall}^ cleared 
and cultivated, but the country cannot be called well- 
stocked with people. The Go-nakeds, when questioned 
concerning their custom of going nude, said they alwa^^s 
had liked it. The sentiment of shame was wanting in them, 
and they evidently felt quite as decent as we did dressed. 
The party left the Zambesi at the mouth of the Zungwe, 
or Mozamba, or Delta rivulet, up which it proceeded, first 
westerly, and then north-westerlj^ They followed the 
course of the Zungwe to the foot of the Batoka highlands, 
up which they climbed to a height of over 3000 feet. From 
this elevation a fine view was had of the great valley in 
which the Zambesi flows. Only a few years ago these 
extensive highlands were peopled by the Batoka, who had 
numerous herds of cattle, and also cultivated the ground. 
Now not a man was to be seen, and the wild animals fat- 
tened on the pastures. For a week, passing from Tabacheu 
to Moachemba, the party constantly passed the ruins of 
Batoka villages, without seeing a single person. The 
Batoka were driven out of their noble country by inva- 
sions of Moselckatse and Sebatuane. But though the 
Batoka /appear to have never had much inclination to fight 
with men, they are very daring in hunting the elephant. 
They had also become planters of trees, and had other 
germs of civilization. They had sacred graveyards, and 
buried their dead reverently. Some of the Batoka chiefs 



458 NATIVE AFRICAN POETS. 

must have been persons of abilit3' — one of them had dug a 
canal, b}'' which he protected his herds from invasion. 

In travelling from the Kafue to the Zungwe, several 
villages were often passed in a day's march; and the party 
was treated with such hospitalit}-, that their course resem- 
bled a triumphal procession. The people are largely 
eno^aored in aoriculture. For hours the line of march was 
through unbroken fields of mapira, or native corn, Avhicli 
were cultivated with the hoe. Owing to the ravages of the 
weevil, all the corn raised has to be consumed in the same 
3^ear, and hence great quantities of it are made into beer. 
The beer these Batoka, or Bawe brew, is not the sour and 
intoxicating boala or pombe found among other tribes, but 
a sweet and nutritive drink, slightl}- acid. 

Among the Africans, as among every people, men of 
ability occasionally^ appear ; but the want of an}^ method 
of writing prevents the recording of their wisdom. They 
have poets too, who sing their chants in blank verse. 
One such was attached to the expedition. He composed, 
and sung his songs extempore, being never at a loss for a 
word, and accompanied himself upon a native instrument 
called the Gansa, a wind instrument played with keys. 

On the lower bank of the Zambesi, during the winter 
months large quantities of tobacco are raised, and the peo- 
ple are the most inveterate smokers. Their tobacco is very 
strong, and ver^^ cheap, and they swallow the smoke ; 
taking a whiff, puffing out the first of it, and swallowing 
the rest — the real essence, they say, of the tobacco. 

The people above Kariba had never before been visited 
by foreigners. On the 4th of August, the party reached 
Moachcmba, the first of the Batoka villages which now owe 
allegiance to Sekeletu, and could see with the naked eye, in 
the great valle}' spread out before them, the columns of 
vapor rising from the Victoria Falls, though upwards of 
twent3' miles distant. The party was detained the whole 
of the next day b}' the sickness of Charles Livingstone. 
On the 8th he was better, and on the 9th the party 
inarched to the Great Falls. 




M$$:w-^j. 



VICTORIA PALLS. 461 



CHAPTER XXXYI. 

VICTORIA FALLS. 

The native or Makololo name of Yictoria Falls is Most- 
oa-tun}' a, which means smoke sounding. The ancient name 
was Scongo, or Chongwe, meaning the Rainbow, or place 
of the Rainbow. The party embarked in canoes belonging 
to Tuba Mokoro, an ominous name, meaning " smasher of 
canoes ; " but he knew the medicine which insured against 
canoe shipwreck. The party started to land at Garden 
Island, situated near the middle of the river, and on the 
lip of the Falls. Elephants and hippopotami have been 
known to be carried over the Falls, and to be dashed, of 
course, into pulp. The passage down the river, through 
the rapids, to Garden Island, appeared most excitingly 
dangerous. Tuba's orders were that no one should speak 
a word. He stood at the head of the canoe, and a steers- 
man at the stern. There were places in the river where the 
utmost exertion of both men were required to keep the 
canoe in the course, or prevent it from being carried broad- 
side upon the rocks. Never was a canoe more dexterously 
managed. Having reached Garden Island, from its point, 
overhanging the falls, and suspended at that giddy height, 
the wonderful and peculiar character of the magnificent 
cascade burst upon the sight. The Victoria Falls differ 
from Niagara in the method of their formation, Niagara 
has been formed by wearing away the rock over which it 
flows, and by this process has made a long and tolerably 
straight trough in front of it. The Yictoria Falls, how- 
ever, have been formed by a crack right across the river in 
the hard basaltic rock which forms the bed of the Zambesi. 
The lips of the crack are still quite sharp, save about tlirec 
feet of the edge over which the water flows. The walls go 
sheer down from the lips. When the convulsion occurred, 
39* 



462 THE FORMATION OP THE FALLS. 

which thus rent the bed of the stream, no change of level 
took place in the two parts of the river bed thus rent, so 
that at Garden Island the water suddenly disappears, and 
on the opposite side of the reft can be seen the grass and 
trees growing where once the river ran, on the same level 
as the present bed of the stream. The first crack is a little 
over 1860 yards long, a little more than the width of the 
river. The river here runs nearly north and south, and the 
reft is nearly east and west. From the edge of the reft the 
depth of the chasm was measured by a line let down, with 
a weight attached. After paying out 310 feet, the weight 
rested on a projection, about fifty feet above the water. 
The reft was found in its narrowest part, at Garden Island, 
to be eighty yards wide. Into this phasm the river, full a 
mile wide, rolls with a deafening roar. 

Looking from Garden Island into the chasm, down which 
the river has poured, the water is seen to divide, one half 
of it continuing its course through a narrow channel, 
twenty or thirty yards wide, directly at a right angle with 
its former course ; the other half, which fell over the eastern 
portion of the Falls, flows toward our right, and these two 
streams unite, midway, making a fearful w^hiripool, and 
find in Of an outlet in a crack which runs at ris^ht angles with 
the reft forming the falls. This outlet is about 1170 j^ards 
from the western end of the chasm, and about 600 from its 
eastern end ; the whirlpool is at its commencement. For 
about 400 feet, the Zambesi thus confined in a channel of 
only twent}'^ or thirty yards in width, surges south, and 
then enters another chasm, nearly parallel with the first, 
and somewhat deeper. Then turning sharply to the west, 
the river flows round a promontory 1170 yards long and 
416 broad at its base. Then turning round another pro- 
montory, the river flows east in a third chasm, and again 
turning another, it flows west; and this it repeats still again, 
forming thus a zigzag channel for itself, the rocky bounda- 
ries of which are all so sharply cut and angular, that it is 
evident the channel must have been formed by some force 



RAINBOWS IN THE CHASM. 463 

acting from beneath, and rending the rocks in these 
fissures. 

The land bej^ond the Falls retains the same level that it 
had before these rents were made. The tops of the promon- 
tories are generally flat and covered with trees. The first 
is in one part so narrow as to be dangerous to cross. On 
the second the party found a rhinoceros track and a hut. 

When the river is low, Garden Island commands the best 
view of the chasm of the Falls, and also of the promontory 
opposite, with its grove of trees ; the rainbows formed by 
the ascending spray, arching about three quarters of a 
circle, and numbering sometimes as many as four. Cross- 
ing over to the promontor}^, the best view is gained of the 
Falls. First, at the west, is a fall thirty-six 3'ards wide, 
and, as they all are, 310 feet deep. Then a small island, 
Boaruka, intervenes, and on its other side a fall 573 3^ards 
broad ; then a projecting rock, and another grand fall 325 
yards wide, making in all 900 yards breadth of fall. Fur- 
ther east is Garden Island, and the river being then low, a 
good deal of the bare bed of rock was visible, but when 
the river is high, here is nearly another half mile of con- 
tinuous cascade. 

The whole body of water rolls off the river unbroken ; 
but, after a fall of about ten feet, seems suddenl}^ to be- 
come a mass of driven snow. From the chasm arise 
columns of vapor, as if of steam, numbering sometimes as 
many as six, and visible over twenty miles away. At a 
height of about 200 or 300 feet, these are condensed again 
into a perpetual shower of fine rain, and in the morning, 
are decorated with double and treble rainbows by the sun. 

The ancient Batoka chiefs used Garden Island, or Kaze- 
ruka, as it was then called, together with Boaruka, the 
island further west, lying also on the lip of the falls, as 
sacred spots for worship. 

This fall was first visited by the first European in 1855, 
when Dr. Livingstone passed it on his way to the East 
Coast. His visit then was of necessity so short that he 



464 MEAT-EATERS AND GRAIN-EATERS. 

did not visit the opposite side of the chasm, or see the 
wonderful course of the Zambesi beyond the Falls. It was 
during this visit, however, that Garden Island was planted, 
and the name given to it. 

Continuing their expedition, the party crossed the Lekone 
at its confluence, about eight days above the island Kalai, 
and went on to a village opposite the island Chundu. Its 
head man, Nambowe, was a Zulu, who had fled from the 
anger of Moselekatse and taken refuge with the Makololo. 
Among tlie coast tribes a fugitive is almost always made a 
slave, but here he retains the rank- he held at home. The 
children of captives are also treated like the children of 
their captors. The same system prevails among the Zulus 
or Matebele. 

On the 13th they met a party from Sekeletu, who was 
then at Sesheke. On the 17th a messenger from Sekeletu 
met them. These messengers will carry long messages 
word for word, and one of the native objections to learning 
to write, is that these messengers can carr^^ any message 
necessary to be sent. 

Except the small rapids by Mparira Islands, near the 
mouth of the Chobe, the rest of the way to Sesheke by 
water is smooth. The extensive plains along the banks 
might easily be irrigated from the Zambesi, and be made 
to support an immense population. Watered, they would 
yield crops the year round. On the 18th the party arrived 
at Sesheke. The old town, on the left bank, is in ruins ; a 
new one has been built on the same side, a little further up. 

The Makololo are great meat eaters, and when they go 
on a fora}^ as they often do, for a month, many of the sub- 
ject tribes who accompany them, being grain eaters, perish 
from sheer fatigue, while the beef-eaters scorn the idea of 
being even tired. From the experience gathered in Africa, 
it would appear that meat eating men, like the carnivora 
among animals, were much more fitted for endurance of 
violent exercise than those who lived exclusively upon a 
vegetable diet. 



MAKOLOLO WOMEN. 4C5 

A constant stream of visitors called upon Dr. Livin<''- 
stone the day after his arrival. All were in low spirits; 
drought had destroyed the crops; Sekeletu, the headman, 
believing himself bewitched, had killed a number of his 
chief men, with their families, and others had fled : a laroc 
body of young Barotse had revolted and fled north; the 
Batoka under Sinamane and Moemba Avere independent, and 
Mashotlane, at the Falls, were setting Sekeletu's authority 
at defiance. Sekeletu had succeeded to his father, Se- 
bituane, the Great Lion, as he was called, who, during his 
reign, had conquered man}' tribes, but hy his wise and just 
treatment of them, receiving them on equal terms with his 
own Makololo, had made them his devoted adherents. The 
son, however, by his folly and tyranny, had alienated his 
subjects, and the disruption of his empire, which occurred 
a few 3'ears afterwards, at his death, was preparing at this 
time. Sekeletu was sick with a skin disease, but was made 
much better by Pr. Livingstone's treatment during the 
time he was there. _ 

The Makololo are by far the most intelligent and enter- 
prising of the tribes met b}^ the expedition. Under Se- 
bituane the army had been sternly disciplined, and cow- 
ardice eradicated, since the coward was inevitably killed. 
The present race is, however, inferior to the last generation. 
They were industrious workers, but their sons are more 
effeminate, and consider labor as fit only for servants. 

The Makololo women are tiie handsomest in Africa. 
Their complexion is a light, warm brown. They dress 
neatly and wear many ornaments. Tlie sister of Sebituane, 
who is the head lady of Sesheke, wore eighteen solid brass 
rings, as thick as a finger, on each leg, and three of copper 
under each knee ; nineteen brass rings on her left arm, and 
eight of brass and copper on her right; also, a large ivory 
ring below each elbow. She had a [)retty bead necklace, 
and a bead sasli round her waist. The weight of lior 
rings impeded her walking, and chafed her ankles, but 
she put a soft rag under them, and put up with the weight 



466 POLYGAMY IN AFRICA. 

since it was the fashion to wear them. Polygamy is com- 
mon all down the Zambesi ; a man is respected for the 
number of wives he has. The reason for this is, probably, 
that as the husband has the produce of each of the wives' 
gardens, he is wealth}^ in proportion to the number of wives 
lie has. The husband gives to his wife's father a number 
(if cows, proportionate to his wealth, not as purchase money 
for his wife, but in order to obtain possession of her chil- 
dren, since, without this, they would belong to her father. 
Should she die, the husband gives an ox, to compensate her 
father for her entire loss. The wives of the rich have 
servants to do their work for them, and, consequently, have 
.'«, great deal of leisure, which they spend partly in sippino- 
beer and smoking '<bang," or Indian hemp, known as 
matokwane, in secret, since the husbands, though addicted 
themselves to smoking, generally forbid their s[)ouses from 
.*^o doing. The effect of smoking bang is peculiar; it seems 
to produce a mild species of frenz}^ ia which they utter 
unmeaning words. Its physical effects are very bad ; it 
gives rise to an eruption on the skin, and carried to excess 
produces idiocy. The part}-^ was overrun with visitors, who 
were interested in seeing tlie white men eat. They use a 
spoon to put their food in their left hand, with which they 
carry it to their mouths. Eating butter unmelted disgusted 
tliem; they never eat it except when melted into oil. 
Otherwise it is raw, to them, and the only use they make 
of it in this state is rubl)ing it on their bodies, to make 
their skins glossy and smooth. Thc}^ asked freely for gifts 
of such things as they fancied, but were in no way offended 
at being refused. 

The King receives his tribute from everj^thing produced, 
and a part of all the game killed. Both tusks of the ele- 
])hants killed belong to him. He is expected, however, to 
be generous, and give away a goodly share of his perqui- 
sites of this kind. Justice is, on the whole, pretty well 
dispensed among them. The natives who had accompanied 
Dr. Livingstone had learned from the English that labor 



THE LABOR QUESTION IN AFRICA, 46T 

ought to be paid for, and they were zealous in advocating 
this method. Nearly all these natives had learned to re- 
peat the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed in their 
own language, and were very proud of this accomplishment. 
Flagrant disobedience to the chief's orders is punished with 
death, bat Sekeletu rarely interfered with a native's right 
to choose his head man, and if these are tyrannical, whole 
villages often desert them. 

The ancient costume of the Makololo consisted of the 
«kin of a lamb, or other animal^ worn around the loins; 
and in cold weather a mantle of skin over the shoulders. 
The young men now wear a Jacket, and a skin round the 
hips, but no trowsers, waistcoat, or shirt. The lake and 
river tribes are generally quite cleanly, bathing several 
times a day. The women use water sparingly, rubbing 
themselves with butter instead ; this keeps oil insects, but 
does not improve the flavor of their clothes. The chief 
and his head men were very anxious to have English people 
settle on the Batoka highlands, and proposed to select a 
place for them. As slave stealing is the gigantic evil with 
the tribes near the coast, so with these inland pastoral 
tribes cattle stealing, which they call lifting, is the great 
evil. They justify it, if the chief has given permission for 
one of these marauding trips. 

On the 17th of September, 18t0, the party left Seshekc, 
accompanied by a band, and two young Makololo, with 
their Batoka servants. On the night of the 17th they slept 
on the left bank of the Majeele. 

Dr. Livingstone now had an opportunity of seeing more 
of the Batoka than he had on the higiiland route to the 
north. They put the pot on the fire, without waiting until 
evening before offerinsr food to the stransjers. Both men 

o o o 

and women were distinguished by a greater roundness of 
features tlian other natives, and tlieir custom of knocking 
out the front upper teeth. 

The Batoka are a polite people in their way, though they 
express it curiously. The ordinary way of salutation 19 



468 COLOR A QUESTION OF CLIMATE. 

for the women to clap their hands and make an ululating 
gound ; the men stoop and clap their hands on their hips. 
When they wish to be especially respectful, they throw 
themselves on their backs, and roll from side to side, slap- 
ping the outside of their thighs vigorously, and calling out 
*' Kina-bomba ! kina-bomba ! " witli great energy. 

The natives of Africa who live in elevated, dry situa- 
tions, and are not obliged to work much in the sun, are 
frequently of a light warm brown. In fact brown, not 
black, is their color, and its darkness is probabh^ caused 
1)3' the sun, and partly by something in the soil and climate 
■which is not yet understood. The color it appears is not a 
question of race, since a wound, or scar, after a long resi- 
dence in a hot climate, heals darker than the rest of the 
body. It is not unusual to meet Europeans with hair 
darker than that of the African, or with Africans whose 
hair has a distinct reddish tint, and who have the same 
nervo-sanguineous temperament as the Xanthous varieties 
of other races. 

Among the Batoka, as among other tribes, a strong clan- 
nish feeling prevails. Like the bushmen, the Batoka have 
great skill in following the track of a wounded animal ; 
the3'' are educated to do so. They are also excellent 
climbers, being used to collect the wild fruits. On the Tst 
of October the party encamped on the Kalomo, and found 
the weather warmer than in August. At 3 P. M. the ther- 
mometer, at four feet from the ground, stood 101° in the 
shade. Though the weather had been dry, no rain having 
fallen for months, the trees were commencing to put forth 
leaves. A da}- or two after the thermometer stood 102^ in 
the shade, and under the tongue, or armpit, 99.5°, showing 
this to be the temperature of the blood j with the natives 
it stood at 98°. 

The Longkwe, or as the Makololo call it, the River of 
Qual, or tobacco, comes in from the country of Moselekatse, 
or from the southwest, and joins the Zambesi above Go- 
iongwe. On the 5th, after crossing some hills, the party 



o 



> 

•1-1 
O 
1^ 




<i 



THE PRICE OF CANOES. 471 

rested at the village of Simariango. The natives were 
workers in iron. They said tin was obtained from a people 
in the North called Marendi, and that they had made 
bracelets of it. This was the first time tin had been heard 
of as being in the country. 

On the 6th the part3' arrived at the island Chilombe, be- 
longing to Sinamaue, by whom we were well received. 
The Zambesi here runs smooth and broad aoaiu. Sina- 
mane is an active-looking man, of a light complexion, and 
the ablest and most energetic of the Batoka chief the party 
bad 3'et met. lie had been independent until lately, when 
he had sent in his adhesion to Linyanti. llis people culti- 
vate large quantities of tobacco for the Makololo market. 
They manufacture it into balls weighing about three quar- 
ters of a poimd each. Twenty of these are given for a 
hoe. The Batoka plantations were frequent upon both sides 
of the river. As the party sailed down, they were saluted 
by the natives on the banks clapping their hands, 

Moemba owns a rich island, Mosanga, a mile in length, 
upon which his village stands. He and his people treated 
the party with great hospitality. The party stopped at 
Makonde's village to purchase canoes. The price of canoes 
was considered large; they paid for one twelve strings of 
the cut-glass neck-beads, an equal number of large blue 
ones, the size of marbles, and two yards of gray calico. 

The temperature of the Zambesi had increased 10^ since 
August, and wa& now 80^. The air was as high as 96"* at 
sunset. Africa differs from India in having cool nights, 
and there is no doubt that Europeans can bear in Africa 
an exposure to the sun wliich would be fatal in India 
This difference arises probably from the greater dryness 
of the air in Africa. In his twenty-two years' experience 
Dr. Livingstone had never heard of a case of sunstroke 
ill .Vfiica, tijough head-dresses for protection are rarely 
seen. 

Game in extraordinar}'^ abundance, especially from this 
jjoint to below the Kafue, is found. An hour's walk on the 



412 RETUItN TO TKTTE. 

right bank, morning or evening, shows tlie country swarm- 
ing willi wild auinuvls, the drought driving them all to the 
river to (]rinlv, A few miles below Ciiikumbula's the party 
found a herd of hippopotami, with a white one among 
them. It was pinkish wiiito, exactly like the color of the 
albino. The so-called white eh-phant is just such a pinkish 
albino as this animal. A few utiles above Kariba it had 
been noticed that in two small hamlets many of the inhabi- 
tants had a similar affection of the skin. The same influ- 
ences appear to have affectel men aivd animals. When the 
female hippopotamus has twins, she is said to kill one of 
them. The tsetse, a poisonous kind of fly, which is deadly 
to cattle, was found in various parts of this portion of 
Africa. No one knows where these insects breed ; at a 
certain season they all disnj>pear, and as suddenly come 
back. Though the natives are generally close observers 
of nature, they could tell nothing about this insect's 
habits. 

After three hours' sail, on the 29th, the river was again 
narrowed, by the mountains of Mburuma, called Karivua, 
into one channel, and rapids again appeared in the stream. 
The scenery of this pass resembled that of Kebrabasa, 
though inferior. Tim Karivua narrows are about thirty 
miles long. They end at the mountain Roganora. On the 
1st of November the party airived at Zumbo, at the mouth 
of the Loangwa, and on the 23d reached Tette, having been 
absant a little over six months. 



'^TIIE PIONEER." 473 



CHAPTER XXXYII. 

A TRIP IN THE NEW BOAT, "THE PIONEER." 

The Zambesi being veiy low, the part}- remained at. Telte 
until it rose a little, and on the 3rd of December left for 
the Kongone, which was reached on the 4th of January, 1861. 

On the olst the uew boat " The Pioneer" arrived from 
England, but the weatlier prevented her venturing into tho 
harbor until the 4th of February. In other vessels there 
arrived Bishop Mackenzie, and six English missionaries 
for the tribes of the Shire and Lake Nyassa, with five 
colored men Ifrom the Cape. The bishop and missionaries 
went in the Lyra man-of-war to Johanna, to leave the mis- 
sionaries there, and returning go Avith the party to Rovuma. 
On the 25th of February the Pioneer anchored in the 
mouth of the Rovnma, and on the 9th the Bishop having 
arrived, on the 11th the part}^ proceeded on tlieir way. The 
scenery on the Rovuma, in its lowest port, is finer than that 
on the Zambesi ; the current was as strong as tliat of the 
Zambesi, but the volume of the water was less. Finding 
too little water when only thirty miles up the stream, it 
was decided to return to the Shire, and afterwards explore 
the Rovuma and Lake N^-assa from the lake downwards. 

Touching at Mohilla, one of the Comoro Islands, there 
was found a mixed race of Arabs, Africans and tlieir con- 
querors, the natives of Madagascar. Tlien to Johanna, 
whence with the missionaries, the party sailed for the Kon- 
gone mouth of the Zambesi ; reached the coast in seven 
days, and passed up the Zambesi to the Shire. 

The Pioneer was found to be admirably adapted for the 
purpose she was built for, except that her draft was too 
deep, being five feet. She had been designed to draw only 
three feet, but the weight added to give her sufficient 
strength, had sunk her tvvo feet more. In consequence sliQ 
40* 



4t4 FREEING A PARTY OF SLAVES. 

was dela3'ed in one instance a fortnight on a sand bank. 
On arriving at Cliibisa's the expedition learned that there 
was war in the Manganja country, and that the slave-trade 
was going on briskly. On the 15Lh of July the party 
started for the highlands, to show the Bishop the best 
place for coolness and altitude, for the station. Reachino- 
Mbame's village, they were told that a gang of slaves were 
about to pass through. Soon after they came in sight, 
eighty-four of them, chiefly women and children, chained 
together in single file. The men were listened with forked 
sticks, six or seven feet long, about their necks, the prongs 
of the fork riveted with iron. The slave-dealers came in 
triumphantly, but on sight of the English fled. The slaves 
were freed, and taken as a commencement of a mission set- 
tlement. Having thus commenced, in the course of a day 
or two, numerous other bands of slaves were freed. A tem- 
porary seat for the mission was selected on the Magomero, 
and there the exploring party left the Bishop and the rest, 
and returned to the ship to prepare for a journey to Lake 
Nyassa. 

On the 6th of August, 1861, the party started with a 
four-oared gig. The party followed the river for the most 
part, but a good road could be made over the country 
lying inland. Some of the five main cataracts are Aery 
grand. The river falls 1200 feet in 40 miles. After pass- 
ing the cataracts they reached the broad and deep water 
of the Upper Shire. Tlie natives regard this river as a 
prolongation of Lake N3'assa, the current being very 
gentle, not more then a mile an hour, while that of the 
Lower Shire is from two to two and a half. The Makololo 
attendants accompanied the partj^ on the right bank, and 
passed thousands of Manganja fugitives living in temi)o- 
rary huts, having been driven from their villages on the 
opposite hills b}' tiie Ajawa. On the 2nd of September the 
party sailed into Lake Nyassa. 

Nowhere else in Africa had there been fonnd so dense a 
population as that on the shores of Lake Nj^assa. In the 



A DENSE POPULATION. 415 

southern part there is an almost unbroken chain of villages. 
Wherever they landed thej'- were surrounded with eager 
curious crowds. On the whole they were civil. They cul- 
tivate the soil, raising quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, 
maize, mapira and millet. In the north cassava is the 
chief crop, which with fish, kept until its flavor is high, 
forms the staple food of the people. In the north at certain 
seasons a small insect or midge comes in clouds, filling the 
air to a great heiglit. The people gather them at night, 
and bake a cake from them; thej'^ are called *'Kungo," and 
the cake is said to taste not unlike caviare, or salted locusts. 
The lake was full of various varieties of fish, most of 
which were new ; the natives are expert fishermen, being^ 
occupied chiefly in the night. They make nets from 
" buaze," netting with a needle such as we use. They raise 
cotton and make cloth from it, and also from a certain 
kind of bark, from an undescribed tree. 

The}'' are by no means handsome. The pelele is worn 
by all the women ; some of them wear one in the lower lip 
as well. A very fashionable style of ring for this ornament 
is made from a kind of red pipe-cla}'. All the natives are 
tattoed from head to foot, the figures designating the tribes. 
The Matumboka, or Atimboka, raise small knobs on their 
faces, which make them look as though covered with warts. 
The young girls are good looking- until they add this charm. 
Owing to the extreme scantiness of materials used in their 
dresses, they are indescribable; their teeth are cut into 
points, like a cat's. Thej^ are generous with what they 
have. The northern chief Marenga, whose domain extended 
from Dambo to the north of Makuza Hill, treated the party 
very generously. Showing Dr. Livingstone his bracelet of 
iron studded with copper, he asked whether there were such 
in his country ; and on being told no, he took it off and 
gave it to the Doctor, his wife doing the same with hers. 

By Chitanda, for the first time in Africa, the party was 
robbed. It was done one night while they were asleep. 
They could not suspect the people of the village, and 



476 LOST FOR FOUR DAYS. 

thought it most probable that the thieves had followed 
them, for some time looking out for an opportunitj^ The 
burying places of the natives here are well cared for, the 
graves running north and south ; the sex of the buried is 
shown b^'the broken implements they had used while living. 
The northern portion of the lake is the abode of lawless- 
ness and bloodshed. The Mazite or Mazitu live on the 
highlands and make incursions on the plains. They are 
Zulus, who came originally from the south, and are of the 
same family as those who levy tribute ^-earl}^ from the Por- 
tuouese on the Zambesi. All the villaoes north of Man- 
kambira's (lat. IV 44' south) had been recently destroyed 
b}' these terrible marauders, but in their attacks upon that 
chief and Marengo they had been foiled, the thickets and 
stockades round the villages protecting the bowmen inside, 
wliile the Mazitu were afraid to venture where they could 
not use their shields. 

Here Dr. Livingstone, with a few companions, went 
ashore, intending to meet the boat at a point lower down, 
and within sight. They missed each other, however, and 
for four days the land party were in considerable danger 
from the Mazitu ; but having finally found each other, the 
whole party were again united, and returned to Mankam- 
bira's. This was the last latitude taken, 11° 44' S. The 
end of the lake, it is supposed, lies on the southern borders 
of 10^, or tiie northern limits of 11°, south latitude. 

The party reached the ship on the 8th of November, 
1861, quite weak from hunger, from which they had suf- 
fered more than in any other trip. Bishop Mackenzie came 
down to the ship on the 14th. The Ajawa had been de- 
feated and driven away, and many of the Manganja had 
settled round Magomero in order to be under his protection. 
He hoped that the slave-trade would soon cease in the high- 
lands, and the people be left in secure possession of the 
fruits of their industry. 

The rains became pretty general towards the close of 
December, and the Shire was in flood early in January, 



"the lady nyassa.'' 41T 

1862. At Mbamirs village it was told that Mariano liad 
been allowed to return from Mozambique, and was at his 
old trade of stealing the Manganja and selling them as 
slaves. Arrivini^ at the Zambesi it was found that the 
Portuguese had^'established a station on an island opposite 
the mouth of the Shire. Captain Alvcz, the officer in com- 
nrand, visited the ship, and said that the occupation of the 
island was only temporary, and only in consequence of 
Mariano's escape and rebellion. The expedition entered 
the Zambesi on the 11th of January, and steamed towards 
the coast, taking the same side they had taken on the way 
up ; but the channel had changed since then, so that they 
ran aground, but got off without injur3\ Thej^ anchored on 
the Great Luabo mouth of the Zambesi, on account of the 
greater ease in getting wood, and on the 30th the govern- 
ment steamer Gordon arrived, bringing Mrs. Livingstone 
and some ladies to join the mission, together with an iron 
steamer in twent^'-four sections, intended for the naviga- 
tion of Lake N3'assa. The new steamer was called the 
Lady of the Lake, or the Lady Nyassa. A party having 
started to carry the ladies to the mission, returned having 
heard of the death of the Bishop. The sections of the 
new steamer were carried to Supanga, where they were to 
be put together. Here Mrs. Livingstone died from fever, 
on the 21th of April, 1862, and was buried under the shade 
of a large baobab tree. The new steamer was then put 
together and successfully launched on the 23rd of June. 
The inquiries of the natives concerning the habits of the 
tsetse, in order to discover some way of getting rid of this 
pest, resulted practically in nothing. Some claimed that 
they laid their eggs in certain trees, others that they were 
deposited in the droppings of the buffalo. The only chance, 
in Dr. Livingstone's opinion, of getting rid of these poison- 
ous flies, is the extermination of the game, b}' advancing 
civilization. When the Lady Nyassa had been got all 
l-eady, it was found that the waters of tlie Zambesi and 
Shire had fallen too low for navigation, until the rains of 



478 EXPLORING THE ROVUMA. 

December, A stock of provisions were therefore sought 
at the ishmd of Johanna, and it was determined to explore 
the Rovuina, Cattle cannot live on the banks of the Ro- 
vuma on account of the tsetse. The river was so low, that 
the boats had to be drawn over the shallow places. The 
Zambesi men showed great skill in finding out the proper 
channel. The natives are Makonde, and are on friendly 
terms with the Mabiha and the Makoa, who live south of 
the llovuma. Their language differs considerably from 
that in use on the Zambesi, but belongs to the same famil3^ 
On the 16th of September the party arrived at the inha- 
bited island of Kichokomane. At first the inhabitants 
were sh}^, but soon opened a trade for fowls and meal. 

On the left bank, above Kichokomane, is a very fertile 
plain, nearly two miles broad, and filled with deserted vil- 
lasjes. The inhabitants had fled leavins; every thins:, for 
fear of beinsj made slaves of Above this village a large 
crowd gathered on the banks with the evident intention to 
fight. After a long parle}', liowever, they were persuaded 
that the part}"" came merely for exploration. "This was 
their river," they said finally ; " the}' did not allow the 
white men to pass over it, unless the}' paid toll." As it 
was pay or fight, the party paid thirty yards of cloth, and 
the natives then swore to be their friends for ever after, 
and to have food cooked for them when they returned. 
After these protestations, and when the part3Mvere congra- 
tulating themselves upon the settlement, suddenly without 
a word of warning, the natives fired a volley from their 
muskets and bows and arrows. No one was hurt, and the 
natives all ran away at a return fire. The slave-trade is 
the cause for making the natives of this part of Africa 
blood-thirsty and treacherous. This peo})le has a bad 
name among the natives themselves. On their return the 
party was, however, not molested. 

In the country of Chonga Michi, about 80 or 90 miles 
tip the river, the people, though of the same tribe, were 
found to be quite decent. A body of Makoa had come from. 



A SCANTILY CLOTHED PEOPLE. 479 

their own conntiy south and settled there. The Makoa are 
known b}' a scar on their foreheads in the shape of a new 
moon with the horns turned down. Tlie}^ possess all the 
land west of Mozambique, and will not allow any Portu- 
guese to pass into it more than two hours from a fort. The 
Makoa chief, Matingula, was hospitable and commiHiicative. 
His people preferred a plain cloth, with which they were 
acquainted, to one with gaudy patterns on it. They collect 
honey by putting liives upon the trees. A few miles west 
of the Makoa of Matingula the party again met the Ma- 
konde, but now of good repute. The men were very black, 
and wore but little clothing. A young woman brought a 
canoe full of girls to see the party ; she managed her canoe 
most dexterousl3\ She wore an ornament on the side of 
her head made of red beads, a neck-lace of beads of A-arious 
colors ; two brass bracelets on her left arm, and about a 
farthing's worth of cloth, where cloth is cheapest. 

When, according to their measurement, the part}*" had 
ascended 156 miles, their further progress was arrested by 
the narrowness and rocky character of the channel. The 
party came to a halt just below the island of N3'amatolo, 
long. 38^ 36' E., and lat. 11^ 53' S. The Rovuma is re- 
markable for the high lands that flank it for about eighty 
miles from the sea. Its cataracts are found only in the 
level parts, with hills only in the distance, while those of 
other rivers occur in the mountains. Two days, or thirty 
miles beyond where the part}"" turned back, the Rovuma is 
joined by the Lienda, which coming from the south-west, 
rises in the mountains on the east side of Nyassa. The 
Rovuma itself comes from the W. N. W., and after passing 
the junction of the Lienda at Ngomano, or " meeting 
place," the river is found to be ifarrow, and the people 
Ajawa. The N3'amatolo people have an abundance of food, 
and cultivate the ground extensively. Their liomes are in 
the woods, the island being simply their summer residence. 
Boabab trees on the Rovuma, though smaller than those 
on the Zambesi, bear fruit more than twice as large. The 



480 CROCODILE EGGS. 

crocodiles in the Rovuma are hunted industriousl}', and 
oaten when caught. The eggs are also carefull3^ searched 
for in the banks. The female crocodile digs a hole wilii 
her foot, about a foot deep, and covers her eggs in it, leav- 
ing them until the river rises over them, in about throe 
months after, when she returns to help the 3'oung ones out. 
The yolk of the egg is neai'ly as ^vhite as the albumen. 
The}' taste like hen's eggs, with perhaps a smack of custard. 
In one nest thirty-five freshly laid eggs were found. 

On the 9th of October the party returned to the Pioneer, 
having been away one month. Thej^ found that a condenser 
had been sent out from England, and the crew had been 
using the water, >vith a marked exception from fever in 
consequence. There was not on board a single case, though 
the year before when lying in the same spot there had 
been many. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

THE CATARACTS OF THE SHIRE. 

On the 18th of October, the expedition party put to sea, 
and touching at Johanna, obtained a crew of Johanna 
men, with a supplj- of oxen, and then set sail for the Zam- 
besi. At the end of November, they entered the Zambesi, 
but found the water so low that they did not reach Shu- 
pango until the 19th of December. The Shire having risen, 
on the 10th of January the expedition started with the 
Lady Nyassa in tow. * They found that the country had 
been desolated by Mariano, in his prosecution of slaving. 
For scores of miles the entire population had been swept 
away, and the villages burnt down. The dead bodies 
floated down the stream in such quantities, that every 
morning the floats of the paddle wheels had to be cleared 



^ 



CROCODILES AND ALLIGATORS. 4S.j 

of those which had been stopped by them at night. Tiie 
Shire swarmed with crocodiles, sixty-seven were counted 
on a single bank. The natives eat them, but the flesh is 
too strong in flavor to please a lastidions taste. The 
crocodile differs from the alligator in these points. The 
alligator has its fourth or canine tooth fitting into a hole 
in the npper jaw, while in the crocodile it fits into a 
notch. The fore foot of the crocodile has five unwebbed 
toes, the hind foot has four toes webbed ; in the alligator 
the web is wanting altogether. When the crocodile fincN 
plent}'' of fish, it is not to be feared ; but when the rivers 
are high, the fish desert their usual haunts, and there being 
no necessity on the part of other animals to come to the 
rivers for water, the crocodiles suff'er from hunger. They 
lie in wait for persons who come to the stream to dravf 
water, and thus on the Zambesi annually destroy many 
women. A famine caused by drought had completed the 
desolation caused by the slave trade; so that had the party 
known how desolate the valle}^ of the Shire was, they 
would not have attempted its exploration. 

Supposing that if a steamer could be got upon the lake, 
it would be possible to put a stop to the slave trade, the 
Lady Nyassa was taken apart at a rivulet about five hun- 
dred yards below the first cataract, and a road was com- 
menced over the thirty-five or forty miles of land porterage, 
in order to carry her up in pieces. The chief labor in 
makinor the road w^as cuttinsj down the trees. No tsetse 
infested this district, so that the cattle brought from 
Johanna flourished on the abundant pasture. At the 
uppermost cataract, the i-oad was 1200 feet above the sea 
level. The desolation of the country obliged the party to 
live upon salt provisions and preserved meats, which made 
dysentery universal among them. Dr. Livingstone had an 
attack which lasted a month, and reduced him to a shadow ; 
and it was decided that all the whites who could be spared 
should return to England, for which place they set out on 
the 19th of May. 



484 POISONS USED IN AFRICA. 

After completing a few miles of the road, and breaking 
in the oxen, it was thought best to seek for provisions, by 
going in a boat above the cataracts to the tribes at the 
foot of Lake N3assa, who were untouched by the Ajawa 
iiivasion. Dr. Livingstone and a companion therefore set 
out to see whether a boat, which had been previously hung 
up under a shady tree to protect it, was still in good con- 
dition, before attempting to carry a boat round the cata- 
racts. The Pioneer was left in charge of the gunner, her 
decks protected from the weather with a roof of thatch, 
and the discipline of a navj- ship was kept up, in order to 
guard the crew from sickness, by constant emplo3'^ment. 

On the 16th of June, Dr. Livingstone started for the 
upper cataracts. Their attempts to shoot buffaloes on the 
way failed. The long grass prevented their seeing the 
animals, and the buffalo birds gave their charge notice of 
the hunters' approach in time for the animals to get away. 
The natives hunt with poisoned arrow^s, which are barbed, 
the barb being only slightly connected with the shaft of the 
arrow. When the animal is shot, the shaft of the arrow 
falls out, or is soon knocked out b}'' coming in contact 
with the shrubs, while the barbed and poisoned part 
remains fastened in the wound. The poison used in this 
portion of Africa is called Komhi, and is made from a 
species of Strojohanthus. It is very virulent, and seems to 
act by lowering the pulse. All kinds of animals, except 
the elephant and hippopotamus, are killed by these poisoned 
arrows ; these animals are so large that the small quantity 
carried into the wound by the arrow, does not affect them 
Beriously. 

At Lake Nyassa, another poison is used exclusively, it 
is said, for killing men. The Bushmen of the northern 
part of the Kalahari poison their arrows with the entrails 
of a certain kind of caterpillar, which they call 'Xga. This 
poison, it is said, produces delirium. 

A species of grass in tiie path had barbed seeds, which 
entered the clothes, and produced a great irritation of th© 



NATIVE SUPERSTITION, 48t 

ekin ; the inside of one's stockings became worse than the 
roughest hair cloth. It is, however, fine fodder. The 
party followed the native narrow paths, though sometimes 
these lead nowhere. Still it was better to use them, poor 
as they were, than to attempt to open a way through the 
forest. On passing Malango, near the upper cataract, 
not a soul was to be seen, the inhabitants having fled and 
hid to escape the Ajawa. Those of the Manganja whom 
they found, came readily to them, but the majority had 
lost confidence in themselves and every one else. On 
reaching the spot, they found their boat had been burned', 
most probably in one of the 3'early conflagrations of the 
grass. The nails, iron, and copper sheathing lay on the 
ground beneath the tree upon which the boat had hung. 
Thus disappointed about their boat, and desiring to find 
level ground, so that the}^ could bring up another, they 
passed across from the Shire at Malango to the upper 
part of the stream Lesungwe. On the way, occupying a 
well built hut, which had been shut up for some time, the 
air gave us a chill and a fever. Ventilating with a fire 
early in the morning, even in the hottest weather, is a 
preventive against this danger. 

On the 1st of July, 1863, in the night, loud claps of 
thunder awoke the partj'', though the moon was shining 
brightly, and not a <jloud to be seen. Next morning, the 
natives, speaking of it, said: "We thought it was God '^ 
(Morungo). They are superstitious about the storms, birt 
not quite so much so as some of the tribes of the more, 
southern part of Africa. There the Namaquas shoot their 
poisoned arrows at the storms to drive them away, while 
other tribes fling stones at the clouds. 

On the 2d of July, the party arrived at the ship, and 
found despatches from England. Soon after, the party 
again set out, carrying with them a small wagon, drawn by 
six oxen, and loaded with a boat. There were twenty 
natives — some of them Johanna men — to manage the oxe», 
and oerform other necessary work. As soon as they had, 



4S8 THE BOAT LOST AT THE FALLS. 

however, passed the small piece of road built, the difficul- 
ties in the way were seen to be practically insurmountable, 
from the time it would take. The Ajawa and Manganja 
settled at Chibisa's were, therefore, sent for, and they 
taking the boat upon their shoulders, carried it, in a few 
days, past all the cataracts but one. Between the last two 
cataracts, they took advantage of a still reach of the river 
to haul the boat a couple of miles. The Makololo, accus- 
tomed to rapids, had her in charge. Finding the rapids 
too strong, they resolved to take the boat out of the water, 
and carry it round the last cataract. Five Zambesi men, 
feeling that they could manage her, took an opportunity, 
when no one was lookino- to net three of them into the 
boat before it was lifted from the water, while two hauled 
on the rope. All at once the current struck her, the rope 
broke, those in the boat leaped out for their lives, and, 
like an arrow, she shot over the cataract, shattering her- 
self to pieces, and destroying the result of all their labor 
and hope. The five men, who were the cause, approached 
with the sheepisli air of children who have broken a milk 
pitcher ; but they were forgiven, their only sentence being 
to go back to the ship for provisions. 

. The cataracts on the Shire begin in 15° 20' S., and end 
in lat. 15° 55' S. ; the difference in latitude is, therefore, 
85'. The river runs here nearly north and south till we 
pass Malango, so that the distance is under forty miles. 
There are five principal cataracts, and three or four smaller 
ones. The lesser descend at an angle of about 20°, the 
larger fall 100 feet in 100 yards, at an angle of 45°, and 
one at an angle of 70°. The entire descent from the Upper 
to the Lower Shire is 1200 feet. 

On the 15th of August, the men came back from the 
ship with provisions, and the part}'^ started with light 
hearts. The weather was cool, and on the 19th they were 
on the march. The intention was to proceed parallel with 
Lake Nyassa, at some distance from it, so as to pass the 
Zulus near its northern end, without touching them j to 




BATE YE COSTUME3. 



A WOMAN CHIEF. 491 

ascertain whether an}" larg^ river flowed into the lake 
from the west ; to visit Lake Moelo, if there was time, and 
collect information concernino: the slave trade in this 
quarter. On the 20th of August, finding a few people 
almost starving, it was learned that food could not bo 
found nearer than Lake Pamalorabe, where the Ajawa 
chief Kainka was living, or with the Maravi female chief, 
Nyango. The party, therefore, turned northwestward, and 
struck tlie Ribve-ribve, or Rivi-rivi, which rises in the 
Maravi range, and flows into the Shire. The people along 
the Rivi-rivi had defended themselves against the Ajawa, 
and were willing to sell their maize, but they could not be 
persuaded to lead the party to their chieftainess, Nyango. 

A simple gun trap used by us to protect the camp from 
the prowling depredations of the hyena, is shown in the 
foresoinof illustration. 

The varieties of costume worn by the various tribes of 
Africa, to be fully illustrated, would require a plate for 
almost every tribe. A fair idea, however, can be gained 
of the general character of the dress they weaA* by the cut 
showing the costume of the Bayeye. Arriving at Chin- 
samba's two stockades, on the banks of the Lintipe, the 
party learned that the Mazitu had been repulsed the day 
before. Taking Chinsamba's advice to avoid the Mazitu, 
the party continued their route on the 5th of September to 
the north-east, reaching the lake, and continued their 
march on its shore. On the 10th of September, the party 
arrived at Kota-kota Ba}', and, continuing their march, 
found that no large river emptied into the north end of the 
lake. The dispatch received at the Pioneer having 
r)rdered the expedition to return, the party now pushed 
back, and reached the ship the lltli of November. From 
Zanzibar to Bomba}'', Dr. Livingstone himself navigated 
the Lady Nyassa, with a crew chiefl}'' composed of natives, 
though the trip was a very rough one. From Bombay, 
Dr. Livingstone proceeded to England, where he was 
received most enthusiastically. 



492 THE THIRD EXPEDITION. 

> 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

DR. LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION TO AFRICA. 

Dr. Livingstone left England on his tliird tour of 
exploration August 14tli, 18G5. From England he went 
to Paris, and from Paris to Bomba}^ and from thence to 
Zanzibar. He thence, on March 28th, 18G6, crossed to the 
mainland, and started for the interior by wa^^ of Rovuma. 
nis object "was to push, by way of the Rovuma, to the 
northern extremity of Lake N^'assa. In this expedition, 
he was aided by the government, and was given consular 
authorit}', having been appointed Consul for Inner Africa. 
In December, a number of the natives who had accom- 
panied him, returned and stated that he had been killed 
by a part}'' of Mazitus, on the shore of Lake Xyassa. This 
news was sent to the English Government by Dr. Seward, 
the British Political Resident at Zanzibar, in a letter to 
Lord Stanley-, the Secretarj'- of State for Foreign Affairs. 
The letter was dated December 10th, 18GG, and gave quite 
a detailed account of Dr. Livingstone's death. The man 
who reported tliat he had been able most wonderfully to 
escape, narrated the particulars of the contest in which the 
Doctor lost his life with great particularity of detail. 
According: to this account, the date of Livin2:stone's death 
was placed about the middle of September. The native 
who gave this account was also examined b}" Dr. Kirk, of 
Zanzibar, v.ho wrote a full description of his examination. 

The account was, however, not believed universall3^ 
Dr. Livingstone's friend, Sir Roderick Impey Murchison, 
the President of the Roj'al Geographical Society, and at 
whose instance chiefly Livingstone had undertaken this 
last exploration, disbelieved tlic story. Another disbe- 
liever in the story was Mr. E. 0. Young, an African 
explorer and trader. The notorious unreliability of many 
of the persons, like the man who brought the news, and 



GOVERNMENT SEARCH EXPEDITIONS. 493 

the fact that his story was a cover for receiving his own 
wages, were the chief reasons why those acquainted with 
the subject disbelieved his tale, notwithstanding its circum- 
stantial character. V The Royal Geographical Society had 
received letters from Dr. Livingstone up to Februar}', 18GT. 
In October, 1867, they had heard that he was at TTjiji, on 
Lake Tanganyika. The London Times for October 20, 
1868, printed a letter from Sir R. I. Murchison, in which 
he said he thought Dr. Livingstone was alive, and was 
coming home ; and that this rumor was current in Zan- 
zibar. 

Previous to this, an English expedition in search of Dr. 
Livingstone left England in June, 186t, under the com- 
mand of Mr. E. 0. Young, and arrived at the Zambesi on 
the 25th of July. Six weeks after they reached the foot 
of Lake Nyassa, and having gathered reliable information 
tliat Dr. Livingstone was safe and sound, near L^jiji, they 
returned home. March 30th, 1868, Dr. Kirk, at Zanzibar, 
received news of Livingstone which he considered reliable, 
it being brought from the interior by some traders, but 
from tliat date until Jul}', 1872, nothing reliable was heard 
from the intrepid explorer. 

In 1871 another expedition in search of Livingstone was 
sent out by the English Government, and in the summer 
of that year Stanley had started upon his search. 

The following extract from a speech delivered by Stanley 
before the British Association, gives a most graphic account 
of the planning of this expedition. He said ; " While I 
was following my duties at Madrid, I received a telegram 
to come to Paris on important business. I went and found 
Mr. James Gordon Bennett, the younger, of the New York 
Herald. I found him in bed. I knocked at his door. IIo 
said come in, and then demanded my name. 

" 'My name is Stanley.' 

"'Oh I you are the man I want. Do you know wher« 
Dr. Livingstone is V 

" I said : * I declare to you I do not.' 
42 



494 THE ORIGIN OF THE STANLEY EXPEDITION. 

" ' Do joii suppose he is alive V 

" ' I really don't know.' 

" ' What do jou think of it ?' 

" * It passes my comprehension.' 

" ' Well, I think he is alive, and I want 3*011 to find 
him ! ' 

" I thought it was a most gigantic task, but I dared not 
say no to Mr. Bennett. I answered : 

" 'If )-ou send mc to Central Africa, I shall go there.' 

" He said : * Well, go. I believe he is alive, and 3'ou can 
find him ! ' 

"I said: 'Mr. Bennett, have 3'ou the least idea how 
much that little journe3' will cost ? The Burton and Speke 
expedition cost between £2000 and £4000. Are j^ou ready 
to incur that expense ?' 

"Mr. Bennett replied: ' Draw £1000, and when that is 
finished draw another £1000 ; and when that is done draw 
another £1000; and when 3'ou have got rid of that, draw 
another, and another ! ' " 

The first information received of the success of Stanley's 
search, was a letter in the Lahore Chronicle (E. I.), of May 
21st, 1872, dated at Zanzibar, and mentioning reports that 
Livingstone and Stanley w^re at Ujiji, having arrived there 
from a cannibal country, and that they Avere living in the 
same house. This report was received incredulously in 
some quarters, but on Jul v I5th, the Herald printed letters 
from Stanle3'", dated Kwihara, Un3-anyembe, Sept. 20th, 
1871; Ujiji, Lake Taganyika, Nov. 10th, 1871, and Kwi- 
hara, Feb. 21st, 1872, and March 12th, 1872, in which an 
account was given of the pi'ogress and success of the expe- 
dition, and from which we give the following extract: 

"Two marches more, and w^e are entering the suburbs of 
XJjiji, firing away our guns as only exuberant heroes do, 
to the intense astonishment of the Arabs of LTjiji, who 
turned out en mai^se to know what it meant. Among those 
who came to question us w^ere the servants of Dr. Living- 
stone, who shortly ran ahead in haste to inform him that 



THE MEirtiNG OF STANLEY AND LIVINGSTONE. 497 

Jin Englishman, was coming. ' Sure, sure, he was an Eng- 
lisliman,' they said, though the American flag was in their 
front, held aloft by the stout arms of my gigantic Kiran- 
gozi. We entered slowl^', the immense number of people 
Avho had collected about us impeding rapid progress As 
we advanced, the crovvd became larger and more mingled 
with the chief Arabs, and the noise of firing and shouting 
became deafening. Suddenly the firing and hubbub ceased ; 
the van of the expedition had halted. Passing from the 
rear of it to the front, I saw a knot of Arabs, and in the 
centre, in striking contrast to their sunburt faces, was a 
pale-looking and gray-headed white man, in a navy cap, 
with a faded gold band about it, and red woollen jacket. 
This white man was Dr. David Livingstone, the hero 
traveller, the object of the search. It Avas the dignity that 
a white man, and leader of an expedition ought to possess, 
that prevented me from running to shake hands with the 
venerable traveller ; but when I first cauoht si^ht of him — 
the man with whose book on Africa I was first made 
acquainted when a boy — so far away from civilization, it 
was very tempting. False pride and the presence of the 
grave looking Arab dignitaries of TJjiji restrained me, and 
suggested me to sa}^ with a shake of the hand : 
" ' Dr. Livingstone, I presume.' 
" 'Yes,' was the answer, with a kind smile. 
"Together we turned toward his house. We took seats 
on the goatskins spread over the mud floor of his veranda. 
Conversation began, it would be diflScult to say about what, 
the topics changed so rapidly'; but shortly I found myself 
acting the part of a newspaper — I had five j'cars of new3 
to give him. Our first day was passed in eating so vora- 
ciously, and talking so fast, and about such manifold sub« 
jects, that it is difficult to say which we did most. But it 
is certain that before retiring, he asserted his belief that I 
had brought new life to him: he already felt stronger and 
better. That night he read the packet of letters which I 
had brought to him, the reading of which he had deferred 

for that time. 

42* 



498 LIVINGSTONE'S STORY OF IITS TRAVELS. 

" Some days after my arrival at Ujiji, I elicited from him 
the f()llowin<2: story of liis travels and sulferiiisrs and dis- 
coveries for the past live years : 

"Dr. Livingstone's expedition left Zanzibar in March, 
1800. On the 7th of April lie left the sea coast with an 
expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys, nine Johanna men, 
seven liherated slaves, and two Zamhesi men — in all thirty 
men. He also had with him six camels, three ])nfraloes, two 
mules and three donkeys. The expedition travelled up the 
left bank of the Rovuma Hiver, a route teeming with difTi- 
culties. The dense jungles which barred the way required 
great labor with the axes before they could proceed, which 
retarded very much the progress of the expedition. Soon 
after leaving the coast Dr. Livingstone was made aware of 
the unwillingness of the Sepoys and Johanna men to march 
into the interior. Their mnrmurings and complaints grew 
louder day by day. Hoping that he might be induced t(> 
return, the Sepoys and Johanna men so abused the animals 
that in a short time not one was left alive. This plan not 
Rucceeding. they set abT>ut poisoning the minds of the sim- 
ple natives towards the Doctor, by inculcating the most 
luischievous and false rci)orts concerning his character and 
intentions. As tliis might possibly become dangerous, the 
Doctor resolved to discharge tlie Sepoys, and accordingly 
sent them back to the sea coast, with a snfliciency of cloth 
to purchase food on their return. The first of his troubles 
liejran with these men. A more worthless crew as escort it 
would be impossible to conceive. After suffering consider- 
ably from hunger during the transit of a wide extent of 
unoccupied country, alter leaving the Rovuma River, the 
Doctor and his party arrived in the countr}' of a Mhiyou 
chief on the 18th of July, 1806. Desertion of faithless 
men in the meantime had greatly thinned his part}'. Early 
in Auijust, 1806, Dr. Livinorstone and what remained of his 
expedition arrivetl at Mponda's, a chief of a tribe of 
Wahiyou, living near the Nyassa Lake. Here Wikotani — 
one of the nice, lionorable fellows of Mr. Horace Weller — « 



1 



musa's £tory of Livingstone's death. 499 

a proleg-^ of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, alleg- 
ing as his excuse, which the Doctor found subsequently to 
be false, that he had seen his brother. He also claimed 
Mponda's chief wife as his sister. After delivering him- 
self of raan3' more falsehoods, Wikotani w.as given by the 
Doctor in charge of Mi)onda until his * big brother ' should 
call for him. 

" This ingrate, released from slavery and educated at the 
Tsassick School, Bombay, at the sole charge of the Doctor, 
l)erceiving his application for a discharge to be successful, 
endeavored to persuade Chumah, another protege, to go 
•with him, in order, as the Doctor believes, to enslave him. 
Upon Chumah consulting the Doctor, he was strongly ad- 
vised not to put himself in the power of Wikotani. 

" From Mponda's the Doctor proceeded to the heel of 
the Nyassa, to a village of a Babisa chief, who required 
medicine for a skin desease. To treat the malady he stopped 
at this place two days. While stopping here a half-caste 
Arab arrived at the same place from the western shore of 
Lake Nyassa, who reported that he had been plundered by 
a band of the Mazitu, at a place which the Doctor and Musa, 
the chief of his John una men, knew perfectly was at least 
one hundred and fifty miles north-northwest, or twenty 
days' march from the village. This Musa is he who manu- 
factureil that wonderful tale of murder which so startled 
all friends of the Doctor. During the Zambesi expedition 
Musa had visited this place, in company of the Doctor. 
To the news which the Arab imparted, Musa was an eager 
listener, and lost no time in eonve3ing it to the Doctor. 
The Doctor coolly asked him if he believed it, to which 
Musa answered that he did believe every word, for the 
Arab had told 'true, true.' The Doctor said lie did not, 
and after explaining to him the reasons, he suggested to 
Musa that they should go and consult the Babisa chief, for 
if any one shonld know if the story was true, he should. 
The Babisa chief denounced the Arab as a liar when con- 
sulted. But Musa broke out with. 'No,, no, Doctor, I no 



500 ADVANCING UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 



want to go to Ma Zitu ; I no want Ma Zitii to kill me ; I 
want to see my father, my mother, my child in Johanna. 
I no want Ma Zitu to kill me.' Musa's words are here re- 
ported ipsisHima verba. To this outburst the Doctor re- 
plied : '1 don't want the Ma Zitu to kill me either, but 
since 3'OU are afraid of them, I go W£st until we are far 
past the beat of the Ma Zitu.' Musa was not satisfied with 
the promise of the Doctor, for he said in the same dolorous 
tone : ' If we had 200 guns with us I would go, but our 
small party, they will come b}' night and kill us all.' The 
Doctor repeated his promise, but to no purpose. When he 
turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna escort 
heartlessly deserted him. Hence the fabrication of the 
Livingstone murder tale to hide the fact of their desertion, 
and to obtain their wages. Livingstone's part}'- was very 
small now^ ; he had sent back the w^cnthless and maudlin 
Sepoys ; the Johanna men had deserted him in a bod\% and 
AVikotani had been discharged. He was obliged to seek 
aid from the natives. He engaged them as carriers, and 
as they had never been tampered with or betrayed by the 
slave-dealers he managed exceedingly well. From this 
countr}^ which he left in the beginning of December, 1866, 
he entered on a northern course, where the Ma Zitn had 
swept the land clean of provisions, and where the expedi- 
tion suffered the most pinching hunger. Added to this 
desertions continued, which in one or two cases caused a 
loss of almost all his clothes and cooking utensils and 
dishes. Though misfortune constantly dogged tlie foot- 
steps of the expedition, it struggled on and traversed the 
countries of Babisa, Bobemba, Baniungu, Barungu, besides 
the country of Londa, where lives the famous king 
Cazembe. 

" Cazembe and his queen received him kindly, and showed 
every disposition to assist him, and it was he who gave the 
information about Lake Bangweolo (which he called the 
Large Water) to the Doctor. Near Cazembe 's the Doctor 
had crossed a fine stream called the Chambezi. But he 



^ 



RELYING TOO MUCH ON THE PORTUGUESE. 501 

relied too much on the correctness of Portuguese informa- 
tion, and paid not much attention to it at the time, believ- 
ing it to be, as the Portuguese travellers stated, but the 
headwaters of the great Zambesi, and having no connec- 
tion with the great river of Eg3^pt, of which he was now 
in searcli. Tliis excessive reliance upon the veracit}' of 
Portuguese travellers and traders misled him very much, 
aud caused him double work, plunging him into a lab3'rinth 
of errors and discoveries, making the whole countrj', and 
its intricate s^'stem of rivers and lakes, clear to him only 
after repeating his journeys many times. 

"From the beginning of 18G7 to the middle of March 
18G9, he says he was mostly engaged in correcting the 
errors of Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese when 
writing or speaking of the Chambezi invariably called it 
'our own Zambesi,' or the Zambesi that flows through the 
Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique. Over and 
over again he had to traverse the countries around Londa 
like an uneasy spirit ; over and over again he asked the 
same questions from the different people whom he met, 
until he was obliged to desist, lest they might say, ' The 
man is mad ; he has water on the brain.' 

" These tedious travels have established, first that the 
Chambezi is a totally distinct river from the Portuguese 
Zambesi ; second; that the Chambezi, starting from about 
latitude 11^ south, is none other then the headwaters of 
the Nile itself, thus giving that wonderful river a length 
of over 2600 miles of direct latitude. During this seiies 
of journeys which he made in these latitudes he came to a 
lake lying north-west from Cazembe's. The natives call it 
Lieml)a or Luwemba, from a country of that name which 
bordered it on the south-east. Livingstone discovered it 
to be an extensive heel, or rather foot of the Tanganyika. 
Py his map the southern part of the Tanganyika resembles 
the southern part of Ttalj- in configuration. The extremity 
of the Tanganyika south reaches to 8^ 42' south latitude, 
thus giving the lake a length of 323 geographical miles, 



502 THE LAKES AND RIVERS OF AFRICA. 

or seventy-three miles longer then Captain Burton and 
Speke described it. From the Tanganyil^a he crossed Ma- 
remjruo and came in siolit of Lake Moero. Tracing: this 
lake, which is about sixty miles in length, to its southern 
extremit}', he found a river entering it from that direction. 
Following the Luapula Jiortli, as tliis river was called, he 
found it issued from the great lake of Bangweolo which is 
as large in superficial area as Tanganyika. The most im- 
portant feeder of this lake is the Chambezi. He had traced 
the Chambezi running north through three degrees of lati- 
tude. It could not then be the Zambesi. He returned to 
King Cazembe, thence to Ujiji, whence he dated those let- 
ters to the London Geographical Societj-, under whose 
ffiuspices he travels, which though the outside world still 
doubted that the traveller was alive, fully satisfied the 
minds of the members of that society. The way in which 
Musa left the Doctor, and what the Doctor was doing all 
the time that the world thought him dead, has now been 
told as Dr. Livingstone told your correspondent. But his 
experiences, his troubles, his sufferings in mind, body and 
estate, bow Arabs conspired against him, his men robbed 
him, false Moslems betrayed him, how he was detained by 
inundations, by scant}'' means to cross rivers and lagoons, 
by wars between Arabs and natives from the beginning of 
186T to the middle of March 1869, when he arrived at 
Ujiji— no one will be able to better relate than himself. 
After resting at L^jiji he thought of exploring the head of 
the Tangan^'ika and ascertaining whether this lake had any 
connection, or whether the river Rusizi was an influent or 
an affluent ; but the avarice of the Wajiji, which would 
have deprived him of most of his cloth, prevented him. At 
the end of June 1869, he set off by way of Uguhha for his 
last series of explorations. Fifteen days' march brought 
him to Man^^ema, a virgin country, but latel}^ known to 
the Arabs even. On the threshold of great discoveries he 
was laid up six month from ulcers in the feet. When re- 
covered he set off northerly and came to a broad lacustrine 



LAKE LINCOLN. 503 

river called Lualaba, which flowed northward, westward, 
and in some places southward in a most confusing wa}'. 
The river was from one to three miles broad. Followinjr it 
northerly he discovered "Lake Kamolondo in lat. 6^ 30' S. 
lie traced the river southward to Lake Moero, where ho 
Raw it issue out of this lake tiirough un enormous and deej) 
cliasni in the mountains. Satisfied that this Lualaba was 
ihe Chambezi which entered Bangweolo, or tiie Luapula 
which entered Moero, he retraced his steps northward to 
Lake Kamolondo. He came to a river flowing from the 
west, called the Locki, or Lomami, which issued from a 
laroe lake called Chebunoro, situated to the south-southwest 
from Kamolondo. To this Lake Chebungo Dr. Livingstone 
gave the name Lake Lincoln, after President Lincoln, whose 
sad fate the civilized world lamented. To the memory of 
the American President, whose labors in behalf of the black 
race won his entire sympathy and approval, the great tra- 
veller has contributed a monument more durable than 
brass, iron or stone. 

" Still working his way north, bit by bit, against several 
and varied difficulties, along the Lualaba's crooked course, 
as far as lat. 4 ^ S., he heard of another large lake situated 
to the north in the same central line of drainage as the 
four other lakes; but here he was compelled to turn back 
to Ujiji. Against this compulsion his iron will and indo- 
mitable energy fought in vain ; his men had mutinied and 
absolutely refused to budge a step, and to Ujiji he was ob- 
liged to return, a baffled, sick, wear}'^ and destitute man. 
It was in this state your correspondent met him onl^'- 
eighteen da3's after his arrival. So far had the traveller 
gone north that he was at the beginning of the final and 
certain end. Six hundred miles of watershed had been 
examined carefully. At the beginning of the seventh hun- 
dred the false slaves sent to him from the British Consul 
at Zanzibar, and who were to him as escort, rose up against 
him, saying in their determined actions: 'Thus far 3'ou 
shall go, and not one step further.' 



504 THE WONDERS OF AFRICA. 

" According to Livingstone two things j'ct remain before 
the Nile sources can be said to be discovered. First, he 
has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of Avhich 
give birth to a river flowing north, "which is the Lualaba, 
and two to a river flowing south into inner Ethiopia, which 
ij the Zambesi, tiius verifying the statement which the 
Secretar}" of the Goddess Minerva at Sais made to Hero- 
dotus over two thousand j'ears ago. He lias heard of them 
repeatedly, and has been several times within a fortnight's 
march of them, but something alvva} s interi)Osed to pre- 
vent him going to see them. These fountains require to 
be seen. Second, remains the link above described to be 
explored. The stories which the Doctor relates of the two 
immense countries through which the great river runs read 
like fable. The most southerly is called Kua : the northern 
is called Manv'emrt b}"" the Arabs, and Manuema b}' the 
natives, who are cannibals. He tells of ivory being so 
cheap that twenty-five cents worth of copper will purchase 
a large tusk, worth $120 at Zanzibar. He tells of ivory 
being turned into door[)Osts and eave stanchions b}- the 
cannibals; of skilful manufactures of fine grass cloth, ri- 
valling that of India; of a people so nearly approaching 
to white people and so extremel3- handsome that they 
e<;lipse an^^thing ever seen in Afiica ; and from this fact 
snpposes them to be descendants of the ancient Egyptians, 
or of some of the lost tribes of Israel ; he tells of copper 
mines at Katauija which have been worked for atjes ; of 
docile and friendly people, who up to this time have lived 
buried in the lap of barbarism, ignorant that there lived 
on the earth a race so cruel and callous as the Arabs who 
have come among them, rudely awakening them out of 
their sleep with the thunder of guiti:)owder, to kidnap, rob 
and murder without restraint, and of nian}^ other things 
he tells. 

"The Doctor arrived at Ujiji on the IGth of October, 
Xh^Uerald expedition on the 3rd of November, eighteen 
days later, and as if guided by the hand of Providence not 



LIVINGSTONE AND STANLEY EXPLORING TOGETHER. 505 

a. month too late, nor a month loo soon. He was sick, he 
was. destitute, and iielp came in time. He had returned to 
Ujiji only to find himself robbed of everything by the very 
man to whom the British Consulate had entrusted his 
goods. This man, called Shereep, had sold them off for 
ivor^', and had feasted on tlie little stock of luxuries sent 
to the Doctor by his friends. 

"A few days after the arrival of the Herald expedition 
at Ujiji, I asked the Doctor if he had explored the head of 
tiie Tanganyika. He said lie had not; 'he had not thouglit 
it of so mucii importance* as the central line of drainage; 
besides, when he had proposed to do it, before leaving for 
Manyema, the Wajiji had shown such a disposition to fleece 
him that he had desisted from the attempt.' 

" Your correspondent then explained to him what great 
importance was attached to tlie lake by geographers, as 
stated in the newspapers, and suggested to him, that it 
Avere better, seeing that he was about to leave Unj^anj^embe, 
and that something might occur in the meantime to hinder 
him from ever visitino- it, to take advanta<>e of the offer I 
made of putting myself, men and effects of the expedition 
at his service for the purpose of exploring tlie northern 
head of the Tanganyika. He at once accepted the offer, 
and, like a hero, lost no time in starting. On the 29th of 
November Dr. Livingstone and your correspondent, with 
twenty picked men of the Herald expedition, started. De- 
spite the assertions of the Arabs that the Warundi were 
dangerous, and would not let us pass, we hugged their 
coast closely'', and when fatigued, boldly camped in their 
country. Once only were we obliged to fl}', and this was 
at the dead of night, from a large party whom wo knew 
were surrounding us on the land side. We got to the boat 
in safet}--, and we might liave punished them severely had 
the Doctor been so disposed. Once more we were stoned, 
but we paid no heed to tliem, and kept on our way along 
their coast until we arrived at Mokamba's, one of the 
chiefs of Usige, 
43 



50 o THE RUSIZI AN INFLUENT. 

** Mokamba was at war with a iieiglil)oring chief, who 
lives on the left hand of the Kusizi. That did not deter us, 
and we crossed the head of the Tangan^-ika, governed by 
Uubinga, brother of Mokamba. On the morning of the 
eleventh da}^ of onr departui'e from Ujiji, we were rowed 
towards the river. We came to a long narrow bay, fringed 
on all sides with tall, dense reeds, and swarming with 
crocodiles, and soon came to the mouth of the Rusizi. As 
soon as we had entered the river, all doubt vanished before 
the strons: turbid flood ai^ainst which we had to contend in 
the ascent. After about ten minutes we entered wjiat 
seemed to be a lagoon, but which was the result of a recent 
inundation. About an hour higher up the river began to 
be confined to its proper banks, and is about thirt}' 3'ards 
broad, but very shallow. Two days higher up, Rubinga 
told us that the Rusizi was joined by the Loanda, coming 
from the northwest. There could be no mistake then. Dr. 
Livingstone and m3'self had ascended it, had felt the force 
of the strong inflowing current ; the Rusizi was an influent, 
so much so as the Malagarazi, the Linche, and Rugufu ; 
but with its banks full it can only be considered as rank- 
insf third amono: the rivers flowinq; into the Tanoranyika. 
Though rapid, it is extremely shallow ; it has three mouths, 
up which an ordinary ship's boat loaded might in vain 
attempt to ascend. Burton and Speke, though they 
ascended to within six hours' journe^^ b\^ canoe from the 
Rusizi, were compelled to turn back by the cowardice of 
the boatmen. Had the}' ascended to Meuta's capital, they 
could have easily seen the head of the lake. Usige is but 
a district of Wumdi, governed by several small chiefs, who 
owe obedience to Mwezi, the great King of Wumdi. We 
spent nine days at the head of the Tangan3'ika, exploring 
the islands and many bays that indent its shores. In re- 
turning to Ujiji, we coasted along the west side of the 
Tanganyika as far as the country of the Wasansi, whom 
we had to leave on no amicable terms, owing to their hos- 
tility to Arabs, and arrived at Ujiji on the 18th of Decem- 
ber, having been absent twenty-eight days. 



ANOTHER TRTP IN COMPANY, 507 

*' Though the Rusizi River can no longer be a subject of 
curiosit}^ to geographers — and we are certain that there is 
no connection between the Tanganyika and Baker's Lake, 
or the Albert N^'anza — it is not yet certain that there is no 
connection between the Tanganyika and the Nile River. 
The western coast lias not all been explored, and there is 
reason to suppose that a river runs out of the Tangan3'ika 
tlu'ough the deep caverns of Kabogo Mountain, far under 
ground and out on the western side of Kabogo, into the 
Lualaba, or the Nile. Livingstone has seen the river about 
forty miles or so west of Kabogo (about forty yards broad 
at that place), but he does not know that it runs out of the 
mountain. 

" This is one of the many things which he has 3'et to 
examine. 

"After spending Christmas at Ujiji, Dr. Livingstone, 
escorted by the New York Herald expedition, comj^osed of 
forty Wan guana soldiers, well armed, left for Unyan^^enlbe 
on the 26th of December, 1871. In order to arrive safel}^ 
untroubled by wars and avaricious tribes, we sketched out 
a road to Unyanyembe, thus : 

** Seven days b}'' water south to Uriniba. 

" Ten days across the uninhabited forests of Kaweudi. 

" Twenty daj^s through Unkonongo, direct east. 

" Twelve days north, through Unkonongo. 

" Thence five days into Un3'anyembe, where we arrived 
without adventure of an}'^ kind, except killing zebras, buf- 
faloes, and giraffes, after fift3^-four daj's' travel. The expe- 
dition suffered considerably from famine, and ^-our corres- 
pondent from fever, but these are incidental to the march 
in this country. The Doctor tramped it on foot like a man 
of iron. On arrival at Unyanyembe, 1 found that the 
Englishman Shaw, whom I had turned back as useless, had, 
about a month after his return, succumbed to the climate 
of the interior, and had died, as well as two Wanguana of 
the expedition, who had been left behind sick. Thus, 
daring less than twelve months, William Lawrence Far- 



508 THE SUPPLIES SENT LIVINGSTONE. 

quar, of Leith, Scotliiiid, aud John JVilliam Shaw, of Lon- 
don, England, the two white men I had engaged to assist 
lue, had died; also, eight, baggage-earriers and eight sol- 
diers of the expedition had died. 1 Avas bold enough to 
advise the Doctor to permit the expedition to escort him to 
Un3an3'embe, througii the country it was made acquainted 
Avith while going to Ujiji, for the reason that were he to sit 
down at Ujiji until Mirambo.was disposed of, he miglit re- 
main a 3"ear there, a prey to high cxi)eetations, ending 
alwa^'S in bitter disappointment. I told him, as the Arabs 
of Unyanyembe were not equal to the task of conquering 
Mirambo, that it were better he should accompany the 
Herald expedition to Un3anyembe, and there take posses- 
sion of the last lot of goods brought to him by a caravan 
"whicli left the sea-coast simultaneously with our expedition. 
The Doctor consented, and thus it was that he came so far 
back as Un3'an3'embe. 

" It is erroneously^ supposed by his friends that Dr. Liv- 
ingstone is most industriouslj'^ attended to ; that he receives 
annuall}^, if not semi-annuallj^ large supplies of cloth, 
beads, and necessaries. Your correspodent begs to inform 
his friends that the Hei'ald correspondent found him turned 
back from his explorations when on the eve of being termi- 
nated thoroughly, b}' the very men sent to him \iy the 
British Consulate ; that the expedition found him sitting 
down at Ujiji, ntterl^^ destitute, robbed by the ver\* men 
sent by the British Consulate at Zanzibar with his caravan; 
that the Herald expedition escorted him to Unyan>'embo 
only in time to save his last stock of goods, for the}'' were 
rapidity being made away with by the verj* men entrusted 
1)3^ the British Consulate with the last lot of goods; that 
it was onl3^ b3' an accident that your correspondent saw a 
packet of letters addressed to Livingstone, and so forcibl}'' 
took one of Livingstone's men to carr3' the letters to his 
employer. 

"When we arrived at Unyan3'embe, two bales of cloth, 
two bags of beads, and one case of brand}' had already 



RETURN OF THE HERALD EXPEDITION 509 

disappeared out of the last lot. Neither are the supplies 
or letters hurried up to time. He might have waited long 
at Ujiji, waiting for goods and letters that never would 
come, if the Herald expedition had not informed him. 
Though the distance from Zanzibar to Unyanjcmbe is but 
three months for a loaded caravan, 3'et the Consulate's 
trusty men stopped on the sea-coast, within a stone's throw 
(figuratively speaking) of the Consulate, over three months 
and a half, and Livingstone got his goods thirteen and a 
half months after they left the sea-coast, and only at tliree 
months from the coast. Livingstone had to come for tlicni 
himself, a distance of 350 miles. Within the time that the 
British Consul's men took to convey Livingstone's goods 
and letters a distance of 525 miles, the HeraWs expedition 
was formed and marched 2059 English statute miles, and 
before the fourteeth month of its departure from the sea- 
coast, the HeroAd expedition will have arrived at the sea- 
coast, be paid off, and disbanded. 

,, ** In the matter of supplies, then, being sent to Living- 
stone semi-annually, or annually, there is no truth what- 
ever. The cause is extreme apathy at Zanzibar, and the 
reckless character of the men sent. Where EnoUsh oen- 
tlcmen are so liberal and money so plentiful, it should be 
otherwise. When preparing to return to the coast, your 
correspondent in command of your expedition, turned over 
to Dr. Livingstone nine bales of mixed cloth, 080 pounds 
of assorted beads, well adapted for Rua and Manyema, and 
350 pounds of brass wire, besides one portable boat to cross 
rivers, a supply of carpenter's tools, revolvers, carbines, 
and several hundred pounds of ammunition. 

" UNYAflWEZT, KWIHARA, UnYANYEMBE, 

''March 12, 1872. 
*' The day after to-morrow the Herald expedition will 
leave the Land of the Moon, L^nyamwezi, for the sea-coast. 
Your correspondent has been commissioned by Dr. Living- 
stone, if there is time before the first ship leaves Zanzibar, 
4.* 



510 LIVINGSTONE'S HEALTH AND SPIRITS.' 

to send him fifty well-armed men from Zanzibar, to act as 
soldiers and servants for a nesv expedition, which he is 
about to organize for a rapid exploration of a few doubtful 
l)oints before letu ruing home to declare to those concerned 
that lie has finished his work. He will leave Unyanyembc 
for Ufipa, thence to Liemba and Marumgu, and crossing 
the Luapula River at Chicumbi's, will make his way to the 
copper mines of Katauga, in Rua; then eight daj's south 
to discover the Fountains of Herodotus ; then return by 
Katauga to the underground Jiouses of Rua, ten days 
northeast of Katauga ; thence to Lake Kamolondo, and by 
River Lufira to Lake Lincoln ; thence back to Lualaba, to 
explore the lake north of Kamolondo ; thence return by 
Uguhha to Ujiji, or by Marumgu, through Uwri to the 
coast and England. This is his present programme, which 
he thinks will take him eighteen months ; but, as I told 
him, I think it will take two years. Though he is now 
going on sixty 3'ears of age, he looks but forty-five or fifty 
— quite hale atid hearty. He lias an enormous appetite, 
whi(h has abated none of its powers since I have known 
him. He is in need of no rest — he needed supplies — he 
has got them now, and everything he needs. Though sick 
and thin when I saw him at Ujiji, he is now fleshj- and 
stoutish, and must weigh about one hundred and eight}- 
])ounds. Though I have hung m}'^ balance scales tempt- 
ingly before his eyes, I have never been able to get him to 
weigh himself. I have not the slightest fears about his 
health, or of any danger coming to him from the natives," 




H. M. STANLEY, BOY, AND GUIDE. 



LIVINGSTONE'S LETTER TO THE HERALD. 51,3 



CHAPTER XL. 

LIVINGSTONE'S LETTER TO THE NEW YORK HERALD. 

Stanley arrived at Marseilles July 24th, 1872. His 
appearance was thus described by a correspondent : " II a 
is an American citizen. In consequence of his exposure 
and fatigue, he was not in robust health. He stands about 
five feet seven inches, broad chest and powerful-looking 
frame. His hair, naturally curling, and originally light, 
has turned quite gray." In conversation, he said of his 
first meeting with Livingstone, at Ujiji, on the 10th of 
November, 18*71, that it was formal before the Arabs ; " but 
the Arabs knew that we must have something very impor- 
tant to communicate to each other, and although their prin- 
cipal men wanted to put a multitude of questions to me, 
tliey voluntaril}' withdrew in order to give us the oppor- 
tunity of conversing freely. When we were alone we gave 
unrestrained play to our feelings." Livingstone, he speaks 
of as one of the bravest and noblest gentlemen, and trnest 
Christians living. " I handed him," he said, " a packet of let- 
ters from home, and said that, after he had finished reading 
them, he should next be told all the news from the civilized 
world, so far as I knew them myself. ' No ! no ! ' he re- 
plied, ' for three years I have been waiting for letters from 
Iiome, and I can afford to wait a few hours longer; give me 
the news of the world.' One of the very first questions 
he put to me was concerning the welfare of * his dear old 
friend, Sir Roderick Murchison.'" Stanley replied he had 
left him well. In fact, however, he had died about three 
weeks before their meeting. 

"After I had told Livingstone," continues Stanley, 
"everything, he narrated to me, in return, all that had 
happened to himself" This account was supplemented 
and completed during the four months they remained to- 



514 LtVtNGSTONJB'S COLLECTED COURAGE. 

gether, from the 10th of November, 1811, to the 14th of 
March, 18T2. Stanley affirms that Livingstone positively 
does not know what fear is. At Lake Tanganyika, 
when the party was in fear of an instant attack, Living- 
stone's conduct made thi.si evident. The part}^ was en- 
gaged in eating their snpper, when Stanley called Living- 
stone's attention to the fact that they were being snr- 
rounded. "Are yon sure of that?" asked the Doctor. 
*' Yes! "said Stanley, "some are behind you at this mo- 
ment." Livingstone turned and saw them, and ordered 
one of his men to hail them. As s(K)n as the Marundi saw 
that their presence was known, they advanced and de- 
manded of the party who they were. The travellers 
answered they were white men, and asked what they 
wanted. The natives replied that they would come back 
in the evening to see the white men. Havinof then i>;one, 
the travellei's, on consultation, thought it best to retire 
immediatel}'. Getting therefore in their boats they pushed 
off, when the tribe suddenly appeared in force, attacking 
them by throwing spears and stones at them. Stanley 
cocked his gun and said, " Doctor, give me permission to 
punish these fellows" " Xo ! no!" replied Livingstone. 
" we have got out of danger ; it is not necessary to shed 
blood now." He gives also another incident. The party 
was in the cannibal country of Usamsi, on the western 
coast of Lake Tangan3'ika. Dr. Livingstone had gone out 
to take observations, while Stanley had retired to sleep. 
Suddenl}' a boy rushed into the tent, exclaiming : " Master, 
Master, get your gun ; men want to fight ! " "I found this 
true," sa3's Stanley. " There were scores of excited native 
fellows shouting out that they were going to kill us ; so [ 
sent four or five of our men to the Doctor, warning him of 
the danger, and desiring him to hurry back to the camji. 
By and b}- the Doctor returned, and in liis usual calm and 
delibemte manner, presented himself to the chief man of 
the natives who had made the hostile demonstrations, and 
without any appearance whatever of alarm, or of anger, 



Livingstone's letter telegrapiied. 515 

coolly demanded what was the matter. From the reply to^ 
this question, it came out that the sou of the chief man had 
been murdered Iw the Arabs of Ujiji, and that the}^ had 
come to wreak upon us their reveuge for his death. Cour- 
teous and calm, almost beyond anything I can convey to 
you in words, the Doctor met their declaration with the 
answer tiiat although all that was alleged b}^ the friends of 
the deceased might be true, we had nothing in the world to 
do with the business; we were white men, and not Arabs ; 
and in proof he bared his arm and showed it to them. 
They were not, however, satisfied even by this, which should 
have been tolerably conclusive evidence, and w^e had, in the 
long run, to bribe them in order to get rid of them. They 
left us ; but fearing lest they might return in greater force, 
we sailed into safer quarters, across the lake, a distance 
of thirty -five miles." 

Hastening on to London, Stanley telegraphed to the 
iVeio York Herald the following letter from Livingstone. 
Perhaps no single instance of the differences between bar- 
barism and civilization could be found more striking than 
the fact that this letter, which had been so long on its jour- 
ney from Africa, was almost instantaneously transmitted 
the rest of its way to its destination. The cost of its 
telegraphic transmission was some thousands of dollars : 

LivwgHtone^s letter to the Herald, telegraphed from London, 

July 2Qth, 1872. 

James Gordon Bennett, Jr , Esq. 

Mij Dear Sir : — I wish to say a little about the slave-trade 
in Eastern Africa. It is not a very inviting subject, and 
to some I may appear very much akin to the old lady who 
relished her paper for neither births, deaths, nor marriages, 
but for good racy, bloody murders. I am, however, far 
from fond of the horrible. I often wish I could forgot 
scenes I have seen, and will certainly never try to inflict on 
others the sorrow which being witness of man's inhumanity 



516 LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNEY. 

to man has often entailed on myself. Some of j'our readers 
know that about five years ago I undertook, at the instiga- 
tion of my very dear old friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, 
the task of examinino- the watershed of South Central 
Africa. The work had a charm for my mind, because the 
dividing line between the North and South was unknown, 
and a lit object for exploration. Having other work on 
hand I at first recommended another for tlie task, but on 
his declining: to ^o without a handsome salary and sonie^ 
thing to fall back upon afterwards, 1 agreed to go myself, 
and was encouraged b\' Sir Roderick Mui'chison, saying in 
a warm jovial manner: "You will be tlie real discoverer 
of the sources of the Nile." I thought that two 3ears 
would be sufficient to go from the coast inland across the 
head of Lake Nyassa to the watershed, wherever that 
might be, and after examination try to begin a benevolent 
mission with some tribe on the slope back from the coast. 
Had I known all the time, toil, hunger, hardship, and weary 
hours involved in that precious water parting, I might have 
preferred having my head shaved and a blister put on it to 
grappling with my good old friend's task ; but having taken 
np the burden I could not bear to be beaten bj'- it. I shall 
tell you a little about the progress made by and by. 

At present let me give a glimpse of the slave-trade, to 
which the search and discovery of most of the Nile foun- 
tains have brought me face to face. The whole traffic, 
whether by land or ocean, is a gross outrage on the common 
law of mankind. It is carried on from aoe to ao-o, and in 
addition to the untold evils it inflicts, presents almost in- 
surmountable obstacles to intercourse between different 
portions of the human family. This open sore in the world 
is partly owing to human cupidity, partly to the ignorance 
of tlie more civilized of mankind of the blight which ligiits 
chiefly on more degraded piracy on the high seas. It was 
once as common as slave-trading now is, but as it became 
thoroughly known the whole civilized world rose against it. 

In now trying to make Eastern African slave-trade better 



I 



THE INTERNAL SLAVE TRADE. 617 

known to Americans, I indulge tlie hope I am aiding on, 
thoiigli in a small degree, the good time coming yet, when 
slavery as well as piracy will be chased from the world. 
Many have but a faint idea of the evils that trading in 
slaves inflicts on the victims and authors of its atrocities. 
Most people imagine tliat negroes, after being brutalized 
by a long course of servitude, with but few of the ame- 
liorating influences that elevate the more favored races, 
are fair average specimens of the African man. Our ideas 
are derived from slaves of the West coast, who have for 
ages been subject to domestic bondage and all the depres- 
sing agencies of a most unhealthy climate. These have 
told most injuriously on their physical frames, while fraud 
and the rum trade have ruined their moral natures so as 
not to discriminate the difterence of the monstrous injustice. 
The main bod}' of the population is living free in the in- 
terior, under their own chiefs and laws, cultivating their 
own farms, catching fish in their own rivers, or fighting 
bravely with the grand old denizens of the forests, which 
in more recent continents can only be reached in rocky 
strata or under perennial ice. Winwood Reade hit the 
truth wlien he said the ancient Egyptian, with his large, 
round, black eyes, full, luscious lips, and somewhat de- 
pressed nose, is far nearer the tj'pical negro than the west 
coast African, who has been debased by the unhealthy land 
he lives in. The slaves generally, and especially those on 
the west cost at Zanzibar and elsewhere, are extremely 
ugly. I have no prejudice against their color; indeed any 
one who lives long among them forgets they are black, and 
feels that they are jnst fellow men ; but the low, retreating 
forehead, prognathous jaws, lark heels and other physical 
peculiarities common among slaves and west African ne- 
groes, always awaken some feelings of aversion akin to 
those with which we view specimens of the Bill Sykes and 
'•Bruiser" class in England. I would not utter a syllable 
calculated to press down either class more deeply in the 
niirc in which it is already sunk, but I Avish to point out 
44 



518 AN AFRICAN NAPOLEON. 



that these are not typical Africans any more than typical 
. Englislimen, and that the natives in nearly all the high 
hinds of tlie interior continent are, as a rule, line average 
specimens of humanity. I happened to be present when 
all the headmen of the great chief Msama — who lives west 
of the south end of Tanganyika — had come together to 
make peace with certain Arabs who had burned their chief 
town, and I am certain one could not see more finely formed, 
intellectual heads in any assembly' in London or Paris, and 
.the faces and forms corresponded finely Avith the shaped 
r .head«. . Msama himself had been a sort of Napoleon for 
fighting and conquering in his younger days. He was 
exactly like the ancient Assyrians sculptuied on the Ni- 
neveh marbles, as Nimrod and others, and he showed him- 
self to be one of ourselves by habituall}'" indulging in co- 
pious potations of beer, called pombe, and had become 
what Nathaniel Hawthorne called "Bulbous below the ribs." 
I do not know where the term "bloated aristocracy" arose. 
It must be American, for I have had glimpses of a good 
man}' English noblemen, and Msama was the only speci- 
men of a "bloated aristocrat" on whom I ever set eyes. 
Many of the women are very pretty, and, like all ladies, 
would have been much prettier if the}' had onl}- let them- 
selves alone. Fortunately the dears could not change 
charming black eyes, beautiful foreheads, nicely rounded 
limbs, well shaped forms and small hands and feet, but 
the\^ must adorn themselves, and this they do — " oh the 
hussies " — by filing splendid teeth to points like cat's teeth. 
It was distressing, for it made their smile — which has so 
much power over us he donkeys — like that of crocodile 
ornaments, scarce. What would our ladies do if they had 
none, but pout and lecture us on woman's rights. But 
these specimens of the fair sex make shift by adorning fine 
warm brown skins, tattooing various pretty devices without 
colors, that, besides purposes of beauty, serve the heralding 
uses of our Highland tartans. They are not black, but 
of ligIj^t,,Nyf.irm brown color, and so very sisterish, if I may 



1 



AN AFRICAN BEAUTY. 619 

nse the word, like on new coinage, it feels an injury done 
one's self to see a bit of grass stuck through the cartilage 
of the nose so as to bulge out the alae nasi, or wing of the 
nose of the anatomist. 

Cazembe's Queen, Moazla Njombe by name, would be 
esteemed a real beauty in London, Paris, or New York, 
and yet she had a small hole through the cartilage, near 
the tip of her fine slightly aquiline nose. But she had 
only filed one side of two of the front of her superb snow- 
white teeth, and then what a laugh she had I Let those who 
wish to know go see her. She was carried to her farm in 
a pony phaeton, which is a sort of throne, fastened in two 
very long poles and carried by twelve stalwart citizens. 
If they take the Punch motto of Cazembe, ^'Niggars don't 
require to be shot here," as their own, they may show 
themselves to be men ; but whether they do or not, Cazembe 
will show himself a man of sterling good sense. 

Now, these people, so like ourselves internalh% have 
brave, genuine human souls. Rua, large sections of country 
northwest of Cazembe, but still in same inland region, is 
peopled with men very like those of Wsama and Cazembe. 
An Arab, Syed Ben Ilabib, was sent to trade in Rua two 
years ago, and, as Arabs usually do where natives have no 
guns, Syed Ben Habib's elder brother carried matters with 
a high hand. The Rua men observed the elder brother 
slept in a white tent, and pitching spears into it by night 
killed him. As Moslems never for^give blood, the younger 
brother forthwith *' ran a muck" on all indiscriminatel3'^ in 
a large district. Let it not be supposed any of these people 
are, like American Indians, insatiable, blood-thirsty sav- 
ages, who will not be reclaimed or entertain terms of lasting 
fiiendship with fair-dealing strangers. Had the actual 
murderers been demanded, and a little time granted, I feel 
morally certain, frgm many other instances among tribes 
who, like the Ba Rua, have not been spoiled by Arab tra- 
ders, they would all have been given up. The chiefs of 
the country would, first of all, have specified the crime of 



^20 GOOD SENSE OP AFRICANS. 

which the elder brother was guilty and who had been led 
to avenge it. It is very likely they would have stipulated 
no other should be punished but the actual perpetrator, the 
flomestic slave actins^ under his orders beins: considered 
free of blame. I know nothins: distinsruishes the uncon- 
taminatcd African from other degraded peoples more than 
their entire reasonableness and good sense. It is different 
after they have had wives, children and relatives kidnapped, 
but that is more than human nature, civilized or savage, 

. can bear. In the case in question, indiscriminate slaughter, 
capture and plunder took place. A very large number of 

. very fine young men were captured and secured in chains 
and wooden yokes. 

I came near to the party of S^'ed Ben Habib, close to a 
point where a huge rent in the mountain of Rua allows the 
escape of the great river Lualaba out of Lake Moero, and 
here I had for the first time an opportunity of observing 
the difl'erence between slaves and freemen made captives. 
When fairly across the Lualaba, Syed Ben Habib thought 
his captives safe, and got rid of tlie trouble of attending 
to and watching the chained gangs by taking off both 
chains and yokes. All declared joy and a perfect willing- 
ness to follow Syed to the end of the world or elsewhere, 
but next morning twent^'-two made clear of two mountains. 
Many more, seeing the broad Lualaba roll between them 
and the homes of theii* infancy, lost all heart, and in three 
<lays eight of them died. The}- had no complaint but pain 
in the heart, and they all pointed out its seat correctl3% 
though many believe the heart situated underneath the top 
oC the sternum, or breast bone. This to me was the most 
Fitartiing death 1 ever saw. They evidentl}' die of broken- 
heartedness, and the Arabs wondered, seeing they had 
plenty to eat. I saw others perish, particularlv a very fine 
boy, ten or twelve years of age. When asked where he 
felt ill, he put his hand correctly and exactl}^ over the 
heart. He was kindly carried, and as he breathed out his 
soul, r/as laid gently on the side of the path. The captors 



SLAVE YOKES. 631 

are not umisually cruel. They were callous. Slaving 
liardened their hearts. 

When Syed, an old friend of mine, crossed Lualaba, he 
heard I was in the village, where a company of slave- 
traders were furiousl}^ assaulted for three days by justly 
incensed Bobeniba. I would not fight, nor allow my people 
to fire if I saw them, because Bobemba had been especially 
kind to me. Syed sent a party of his own people to invite 
me to leave the village and come to hira. He showed him- 
self the opposite of iiard-hearted ; but slaver^' hardens 
within, petrifies tiie feelings, is bad for the victims and ill 
for the victimizers. Once, it is said, a party of twelve, 
who had been slaves in their own country — Cunda or Conda, 
of which Cazembe is chief or general — Avere loaded with 
large, heavy yokes, which were forked trees, about three 
inches in diameter and seven or eight feet long, the neck 
inserted in the fork, and an iron bar driven across one end 
of the fork to the other and riveted to the other end, tied 
at night to the tree of ceiling of the hut, and the neck be- 
ing firm in the fork, and the slave held off from enloosing 
it, was excessively troublesome to the wearer, and when 
marching, two yokes were tied together b}' tree ends, and 
loads put on the slaves' heads besides. A woman, having 
an additional 3'oke and load, and a child on her back, said 
to me in passing, " They are killing me. If they would take 
off the 3'oke I could manage the load and the child ; but I 
shall die with three loads." The one who spoke this did 
die; poor little girl! Her child perished of starvation. I 
interceded some, but when unyoked, off they bounded into 
the long grass, and I was greatly blamed for not caring in 
presence of the owners of the propert}'. After a day's 
march, under a broiling vertical sun, with yokes and heavy 
loads, the strongest were exhausted. The party of twelve 
above mentioned, were sitting down singing and laughing. 
" Hallo," said I, " these fellows take to it kindly. This must 
be the class for whom philosophers sa}' slavery is the na- 
ture.! state;" and I went and asked them the cause of their 
44* 



522 A NATION 01' CANNIBALS. 

iiiirlh. I had asked aid of their owner as to the meaning 
of the word "'Kukha," which iisiiall}" means flj' or lea]). 
'Lliey were using it to express the idea of haunting, as a 
ghost, inflicting disease or death, and the song was, " Yes, 
me going awn y to Manga, abroad, on white man's land, with 
y(jke on our necks; but we shall have no 3'okes in death, 
and shall return and haunt and kill you." Chorus then 
struck in, which was the name of the man who had sold 
each of them, and then followed the general laugh, in which 
at first I saw no bitterness. Tarembee, an old man, at 
least one hundrerl aiul four j'ears old, being one of the 
sellers, in accordance with African belief, they had no 
doubt of being soon able, by ghost power, to kill even him. 
Their refrain was as if: "Oh, oh, oh ! bird of freejdom, 3'ou 
sold me ! Oh, oh, oh ! I shall haunt you. Oh, oh, oh ! " 
Laughter told not of mirth, but of tears, such as were op- 
pressed, and the}' had no comforter. He that is higher 
than the highest reirardeth. 

About northeast of Rua we have a very large country 
called Manyuema, but by Arabs shortened in Man3-ema. 
It is but recently known. The reputation which the Man- 
yemas enjoyed of being cannibals prevented half-caste 
Arabs from venturing among them. The circumstantial 
details of practices as man-eaters were confirmed by two 
Arabs who, two years ago, went as far as Bambarre and 
secured the protection and friendship of the Moerekues, 
Lord of Light Gi'a}' Parrot with Scarlet Tail, who was a 
xery superior man. The minute details of cannibal orgies 
given by the Arabs' attendants erred b}^ the sheer excess 
of the shocking details. Had I believed a tenth part of 
what I Avas told I might never have ventured an inch in 
Manyema; but fortunately my mother never frightened me 
in infancy with " bogie " and stuff of that sort, and I am not 
lial)le to fits of bogiephobia, in which disease the poor pa- 
tient believes everything awful, if only it is attributed to 
the owner of a black skin. I have heard that the complaint 
was epidemic lately' \n Jamaica, and the planters' mothers 



THE LAKES OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 623 

have mucli to answer for. I hope that the disease may 
never spread in tlie United States. The people there are 
believed to be inoculated with common sense. 

But why go among cannibals at all? Was it not like 
joining the Alpine Club in order to be lauded, if you don't 
break your neck, where your neck ought to be broken? 
This makes me turn back to the watershed, as I promised. 
It is a belt of tree-covered upland, some seven hundred 
miles in length from west to east. Tiie general altitude is 
between four thousand and five thousand feet above the sea, 
and mountains stand on it at various points, which are be- 
tween six thousand and seven thousand feet above the 
ocean level. On this watershed springs rise, which are 
well nigh innumerable; that is, it would take half a man's 
life to count tlicm. These springs join each other and form 
brooks, which again converge and become rivers, or say 
streams, of twenty, fort}', or eighty 3'ards, that never dr}'. 
All flow towards the centre of an immense vallej-, which I 
believe to be the Yalley of the Nile. In this trough \\q 
have at first three large rivers ; then all unite into one 
enormous lacustrine i-iver, the central line of drainage, 
which I name Webb's Lnalaba. In this great valley there 
are five great lakes. One near the upper end is called Lake 
Bunba, or more properly Bangweolo, but it is not a source 
of the Nile, for no large river begins in a lake. It is sup- 
plied by a river called Chambezi, and several others which 
may be considered sources, and out of it flows the larger 
river Luapula, which enters Lake Moero, and comes out as 
the great lake river Lualaba, to form Lake Komolondo. 
West of Komolondo, but still in the great valley, lies 
Lake Lincoln, which I name as m}^ tribute of love to Ihe 
great and good man America enjoyed for some time and 
then lost. One of the three great rivers I mentioned, 
Bartle Frere's, or Lufira, falls into Komolondo, and Lake 
Lincoln becomes a lacustrine river, and it too joins the 
central line of drainage, but lower down ; and all these 
united form the fifth lake, which the slaves, sent to me in- 



524 THE SOURCES OF THE NILE. ' 

Stead of men, forceil nie, to m}'' great grief, to leave as the 
Unknown Lake. 13}^ my reckoning, the chronometers being 
all dead, it is five degrees of longitude Avest of Speke's 
l)osition at TJjiji. This makes it probable that the great 
lacustrine river in the valley is the Avcstern branch of 
Tetherick's Nile, the Baker Gliazal, and not the eastern 
branch which Speke, Grant, and Baker believed to be the 
river of Egypt. If correct, this would make it the Nile, 
only, after all, the Baker Gliazal enters the eastern arm. 
But thousrh I found a watershed between ten deijrees and 
twelve degrees south — that is a long way further up the 
valley than any one had dreamed — and saw the streams of 
some six Iiundred miles of it conveying into the centre of 
the great valley, no one knew where it went after that de- 
parture of Lake Mocro. Some conjectured that it went 
into Tanganyika ; but I saw that to do so, it must run up 
hill. Others imagined that it might flow into the Atlantic. 
It was to find out where it did actually go that took me 
into ManA'ema. I could get no information from traders 
outside, and no light could be obtained from the Manyema 
•within. They never travel, and it was so of old. They 
consist of petty headmanships, and each hugs his grievance 
from some old feud, and is worse than our old Highland 
ancestors. Eveiy head man of a hamlet would like to see 
every other ruling blockhead slain ; but all were kind to 
6tran2:ers, and thonij^h terrible fellows amonof themselves; 
■with their large spears and huge wooden shields, they were 
never known to injure foreigners till slavers tried the effects 
of gunshots upon them, and captured their women and 
cliildren. As I could get no geographical information 
from them, I had to feel my way and grope in the intermi- 
nable forests and prairies, and three times took the wrong 
directtion, o-oinor northerlv, not knowinor that the ijreat river 
makes immense sweeps to the west and southwest. I felt 
as if [ were running my head against a stone wall. It 
might, after all, turn out to be the Congo, and who would 
risk beini? eaten and converted into black man for it ? I 



t:ie fountains of iierodotus. 525 

had various doubts, but T stuck to it like a Briton, and at 
last found that the mighty river left its wasliing and flowed 
riglit away to the north, the two great western arms, tlio 
Lufira and Lomaine, running nortlieast before joining tin; 
central line or main. Webb's Lualaba told that tlic 
western side of the great valley was high like the eastern, 
and as this main is reported to go into large reedy lakes, 
it can scared}' be aught else than the Avestern arm of tiio 
Nile. But beside all this, in which it is quite possible thnt 
I may be mistaken, we have two fountains on, probably, the 
seventh hundred miles of the watershed, and giving rise to 
the two rivers, the Loambai on the Upper Zambesi, and the 
Kafue, which flow into inner Ethiopia ; and two fountains 
are reported to rise in the same quarter, and, forming 
Lufira and Lomaine, flow, as we have seen, to the north. 
These from fidl grown, gusliing fountains, rising so near 
each other, and giving origin to four large rivers, answer 
in a certain degree to the description given of the un- 
fathomable fountains of the Nile by the Secretary of 
Minerva, in the city of Sais, in Eg3q)t, to the father of all 
travellers, Herodotus ; but I have to confess that it is a 
little presumptuous for me to i)ut this forward in Central 
Africa, and without a single book of reference, on the dim 
recollection of reading the ancient historian in boyhood. 
The waters Avere said to well up from an unfixthomable 
depth, and then part — half going north, to Egy[)t, and 
half south, to inner Ethiopia. Now I have heard of the 
fountains aforementioned so often, that I cannot doubt 
their existence, and I wish to clear up the point in my con- 
cluding trip. 

I am not to be considered as speaking without hesitation, 
but prepared, if I see reason, to confess n^ysclf wrong. 
No one would like to be considered a disciple of the testy 
old would-be geographer wlio wrote Inner Africa Laid 
Open, nnd swore to his fancies until he became blue in the 
face. The work would have been all finished long ago, had 
the matter of supplies of men and goods not been en- 



526 THE BANIANS, SLAVE TliADERS. 

trusted, l)y mistake, to Banians and their slaves, wiiosa 
efforts were all faitlifully directed towards securing my 
failure. Tliese Banians are protected b}'' English subjects, 
and by their mone}', their muskets, and their ammunition, 
the East African Moslem slave trade is mainly carried on. 
The cunning East Indians secure most of the profit of the 
slave trade, and adroitly let the odium rest on their Arab 
agents. The Banians will not harm a flea or a musquito, 
but my progress in geography has led me to the discovery 
that thQV are by far the worst cannibals in all Africa. 
Thej^ compass, by means of Arab agents, the destruction 
of more human lives for grain in one year than the Man- 
yenias do for their flesh pots in ten. The matter of sui> 
plies and men was unwittingly committed to these, our 
Indian fellow-subjects, who had to see me in their slave 
markets, and dread mj'^ disclosures on the infamous part 
they play. The slaves were all imbued with the idea that 
the}' were not to follow, but force me back ; and after riot- 
ing on my goods for sixteen months on the way, instead of 
three months, the whole stock of goods was sold off for 
slaves and ivorj^ Some of the slaves who came to Man- 
3'ema so baffi>ed and worried me that I had to return 500 or 
600 miles. The only lielp I have received, except half a 
supph' which I despatched from Zanzibar, in 186G, has been 
from Mr. Stanley, your correspondent, and certain remains 
of stores which I seized from the slaves sent from Zanzibar, 
seventeen months ago, and I had to come back 300 miles to 
effect the seizure. I wait hei-e at Un3'an\'embe only till 
Mr. Stanley can send me flft}' free men from the coast, and 
then I proceed to finish up the geographical part of my 
mission. 

I come back to the slaver}- question, and if I am per- 
mitted in any way to i)romote its suppression, I shall not 
grudge the toil and time I have spent. It would be better 
to lessen human woe than discover the sources of the Nile. 
When parties leave Ujiji to go westward into Manyema, 
the question asked is not what goods they take, but how 



CHEAP IVORY. 527 

many guns and kegs of powder? If they have 200 or 300 
rauskets, and ammunition in proportion, they think success 
is certain. No trader having ever before entered Manyema, 
the value of ivory was quite unknown ; indeed, the tusks 
Avere left in the forest with the otiier bones, where the ani- 
mals had been slain. Many were rotten ; others, gnawed 
by a rodent animal to sharpen its teeth, as London rats do 
on leaden pipes. Jf civilly treated, tiie people went into 
the forests to spots where they knew elephants had been 
killed, either by traps or spears, and bought the tusks for 
a few copper bracelets. I have seen parties return with so 
much ivory that they carried it b}"" three relays of hundreds 
of slaves, but even this does not satisfy human greed. 

The Manycma were found to be terrified b}' the report of 
guns. Some I know consider them to be supernatural, for 
.when the effects of a musket ball were showni on a goat, 
the}'' looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to 
buy the charm by which lightning was bronglit from the 
skies. When a village was assaulted, the men fled in terror, 
and the women and children were captured. Many of the 
Manyema vvomen, especially far down the Lualaba, arc very 
pretty, light colored, and lovely. It was common to hear 
the Zanzibar slaves — whose faces resemble the features of 
London doordvuockers, which some atrocious iron founder 
thought were like those of lions — say to each other: "Oh! 
if we had Manyema wives, what pretty children we should 
get ! " MaYiyeraa men and women were all vastl}^ superior 
to the slaves., who evidently felt the inferiority they had 
acquired b}^ wallowing in the mire of bondage. Many of 
the men were tall, strapping fellows, with but little of what 
wo think distinctive of the negro about them. If one relied 
on the teachings of phrenology, the Manyema men would 
take a high place in the human family. They felt their 
superiority', and often said, truly, " Were it not for Iho 
firearms, not one of the strangers would ever leave our 
countr}' ! " If a comparison were instituted, and Man3'ema, 
taken at random, placetl o[)posite, say the members of tho 



528 LARGE cnops.^ 

Antliropologica,! Society of London, clad in kilts or grass 
cloth, I should like to take my place alongside the Man- 
yenia, on the principle of preferring the company of my 
betters. The philosopliers would look wofully scraggy ; 
but though the inferior race, as we compassionately call 
them, have finely formed heads, and often handsome fea- 
tures, they arc undoubtedly cannibals. It was more diffi- 
cult to ascertain this tlian ina}^ be imagined. Some think 
the}^ can detect the gnawings of the canine teeth of our 
cannibal ancestry of fossil bones. Though the canine teeth 
of dogs are pretty much like human, for many months all 
the evidence I could collect amounted to what would lead 
a Scotch jury to give a verdict of "not proven." This 
arose partly from the fellows being fond of a joke, and they 
liked to horrify any one wiio seemed credulous. They led 
one of my people, who believed all they said, to sec the 
skull of a recant human victim, and he invited me in 
triumph. I found it to be the skull of a gorilla, here called 
goko, and for the first time became aware of the existence 
of the animal there. 

The countrj^ abounds in food of all kinds, and a rich soil 
raises everything planted in great luxuriance. A friend of 
mine tried rice, and in between three and four months the 
crop increased one hundred and twenty fold. Three mea- 
sui-es of seed yielded three hundred and sixty measures. 
Maize is so abundant that I have seen forty-five loads, each 
about sixtj' pcmnds weight, given for a single goat. The 
maize dura, or hulcus sorghum, hennistum, cassava, sweet 
potato, and yams furnish in no stinted measure farinaceous 
ingredients for diet ; the palm oil, groundnuts, and a forest 
tree afford fatty material food ; bananas and plantains in 
great profusion, and the sugar-cane, the saccharine; the 
palm toddy, beer of bananas, tobacco, and range (canabis 
salina), the luxuries of life; and the villages swarm witii 
goats, sheep, hogs, pigs, and fowl, while elephants, buffa- 
loes, zebras, and gokos, or gorillas, yield to expert hunters 
plenty of the nitrogenous ingredients of human food. It 



THE ADVANTAGE OF CHRISTIANITY. 529 

was puzzling to see why they should be cannibals. New 
Zealanders, wc are told, were cannibals because they had 
killed all their gigantic birds, the moa, etc., and they were 
converted from the man-eating persuasion by the introduc- 
tion of pigs ; but the Manyema have plenty of pigs and 
other domestic animals, and yet they are cannibals. Into 
the reason for their cannibalism they do not enter. They 
say that human flesh is not equal to that of goats or pigs. 
It is saltish, and makes them dream of the dead. Why 
fine looking men like them should be so low in the moral 
scale can only be attributed to the non-introduction of that 
reliorion which makes those distiuctions amons: men which 
phrenology and other " ologies " cannot explain. The reli- 
gion of Christ is unquestionably the best for man. I refer 
to it not as the Protestant, the Catholic, the Greek, or any 
other, but to the comprehensive faith which has spread 
more widely over the world than most people imagine, and 
whose votaries, of whatever name, are better men than any 
outside the pale. We have, no doubt, grievous faults, but 
these are in part owing to want of religion. Christians, 
generally, are better than the heathen, but often don't show 
it ; and they are immeasurably better than they believe each 
other to be. The Manyema women, especially far down the 
Lualaba, are very pretty and very industrious. The market 
with them is a great institution, and they work hard and 
carry far, in order to have something to sell. Markets' are 
established about ten or fifteen miles apart. There those 
who raise cassava, maize, grain and sweet potatoes, ex- 
change them for oil, salt, pepper, fish, and other relishes. 
Fowls, also pigs, goats, grass cloth, mats and other articles 
change hands. All dressed in their last candy-colored, 
many-folded kilts, that reach from waist to knee, when two 
or three thousand are together, they form an interesting 
sight. They enforce justice, though chiefly women, and 
they are such eager traders, that they set off in companies, 
by night, and begin to run as soon as they come within the 
hum arising from hundreds of voices. To haggle, and 
45 



530 NATIVE MARKETS. 

joke, and laugh, and cheat, seem the clearest enjoyments of 
life. They confer great benefit upon each other. The 
Man^'ema women are expert divers for oysters, and they 
sell them and fish in exchange for farinaceous food from 
the women in the East, the Lnalaba, who prefer cultivating 
tiie soil to fishing. The Manyema iiave alwa^'s told us that 
women going to market are never molested. Wiien the 
men of two districts are engaged in actual open hostilities, 
the women passed through from one market to another un- 
liarmed. To take away her goods, even in war, was a thing 
not to be done ; but at these market women the half-castes 
directed their oruns. 

Two cases that came under my own observation were so 
fiickening that I cannot allow my mind to dwell upon them, 
or write about them. Many of both sexes were killed, but 
the women and children were chiefly made captives. No 
matter how much ivory they obtained, these nigger Moslems 
must have slaves, and they assaulted market people and vil- 
lages, and made captives chiefly of women and children ; as 
it appeared to me, and because as men ran off" at the report 
of guns, they could do it without danger. I had no idea 
before how bloodthirsty men can be, when they can pour 
out the blood of their fellow-men in safety; and all this 
oarnage is going on in Manj-ema at the very time I write. 
Jt is the Banians, our protected Indian fellow-subjects, that 
indirectl}' do it. AH we have conceded the Sultan of Zan- 
zibar has been a ris^ht which it was not ours to jxive, of a 
certain amount of slave trading, and that amount has been 
from 12,000 to 20,000 slaves a 3'ear, as we have seen. These 
are not traded for, but murdered, for they are not slaves, 
but free people made captive. A Sultan with a sense of 
justice would, instead of taking head money, declare that 
all were free as soon as they reached his territor}' ; but 
Banians have the Custom House and all the Sultan's reve- 
nue entirely in their hands. He cannot trust his Moham- 
medan subjects, even of the better class, to farm the in- 
come ; because, as they thepiselves say, he would get noth- 



LETTER TO THE ENGLISH GOVERNMENT. 531 

ing in return but a, crop of lies. The Banians actually 
work the Custom House so as to screen their own slave 
agents, and as long as they have power to promote it, their 
atrocious S3''steni of slavery will never cease for sake of 
lawful commerce. It would be politic to insist that the 
Sultan's revenue by the Custom House should be placed in 
the hands of an English or American merchant of known 
reputation and uprightness. By this arrangement the Sul- 
tan would be largely benefited, legal commerce be exalted 
to a position it has never held since the Banians and Mos- 
lems emigrated into Eastern Africa ; and Christianity, to 
which the slave trade is an insurmountable barrier, would 
find an open door. 

David Livingstone. 



CHAPTER XLL 

LIVINGSTONE'S LETTER TO THE ENGLISH GOVERNMENT. 



• >< 



The result of the Stanley expedition in search of Liv- 
ingstone was as unexpected, and in some respects as mor- 
tifying to English pride, since what their Government 
expeditions had failed signally to accomplish, an enter- 
prise undertaken quietl}^ by private persons had brought 
to a successful termination, that doubts were expressed as 
to the genuineness of the letters from Livingstone brought 
home by Mr. Stanley, while in some quarters it was ques- 
tioned whether Mr. Stanley had ever met Livingstone, or 
had ever penetrated so far into Africa. The following let- 
ters to Mr. Stanley from Earl Granville, and from Dr. Liv- 
ingstone's son, should be suflflcient to satisfy even the most 
sceptical of their authenticity. 



S^ BARL GEANVILLE^S ENDORSEMENT. 

From Earl Granville to H. M. Stanley. 

August 2, 18Y2. 

Dear Sir : — I was not aware, until you mentioned it, 
that there was any doubt as to the authenticity of Dr. Liv- 
ingstone's despatches which you delivered to Lord Lyons 
on the 31st of July; but in consequence of what you have 
said, I have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. 
Hammond, the Under Secretary of the Foreign Office, and 
Mr. Wyld, the head of the Consular and Slave Department, 
liave not the slightest doubt as to the genuineness of the 
papers which have been received from Lord Lyons, and 
which are being printed. 

I cannot omit this opportunity of expressing to you my 

admiration of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve 

the object of 3'our mission, and to attain a result which has 

been hailed with so much enthusiasm, both in the United 

States and in this country. 

I am, sir, your obedient, 

Granville. 
Henry M. Stanley, Esq, 

The letter from Dr. Livingstone's son is as follows : 

" Mr. llenry M. Stanley has handed to me to-day the 

diary of Dr. Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by 

my father, with instructions written on the outside, signed 

by my father, for the care of which, and for all his actions 

concerning and to my father, our very best thanks are 

due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that 

this is my father's journal, and I certify that those letters 

which he has brought home arc my father's letters, and no 

others. 

S. Livingstone. 

In these letters from Dr. Livingstone will be found a 
most complete account of his explorations from the date 
when bis communication ceased with the coast, to the 



LIVINGSTONE TO LORD STANLEY. 533 

period when he was found by Mr. Stanley, together with 
the results of his labors, and the plans he has formed for 
completing his discoveries. 

Dr. Livingstone to Lord Stanley. 

Bambarre, Manyuema Country, 

say 150 miles west of Ujiji, Nov. Ibih, 1870. 

My Lord: — As soon as I recovered sufficiently to be 
able to march from Ujiji, I went up Tanganyika about sixty 
miles, and thence struck away northwest into the country 
of the Manyuema or Manyema, the reputed cannibals. My 
object was to follow down the central line of drainage of 
the Great Nile Yalley, which I had seen passing through 
the great Lake Bangweolo, and changing its name from 
Chambezi to Luapula ; then again, on passing through 
LakeMoero, assuming the name Lualaba, and after forming 
a third lake (Komolondo) becoming itself a great riverian 
lake, with many islands in it, I soon found myself in the 
large bend which this great lacustrine river makes by flow- 
ing west about one hundred and eighty miles, then sweep- 
ing round to the north. Two hours were the utmost I 
could accomplish in a day; but b}^ persevering I gained 
strength, and in July came up to the trading part^^ of Mu- 
hamed Bogharib, who by native medicines and carriage 
gaved mj'^ life in my late severe illness in Marungu. Two 
days before we reached Bambarre, the residence of tho 
most sensible of the Manyema chiefs, called Moenekus, we 
met a band of Ujijian traders, carrying 18,000 pounds 
weight of ivorj'^, bought in this new field for a mere trifle, 
in thick copper bracelets and beads. Tlie traders had been 
obliged to employ their slaves to collect the ivory, and 
slaves with guns in their hands are often no better than 
demons. We heard but one side of the stor}^ — the slave 
version — and such as would have appeared in the newspaper 
if they had one : " the Man3^ema were very bad, were always 
in the wrong," wanted in fact to eat the slaves, and alwaj's 
45* 



534 MISTAKEN FOR A SLAVE TRADER. 

gave them just reason to cajjture women and children, 
goats, sheep, fowls and grain. The masters did not quite 
approve of this, but the deeds had been done, and then 
masters and men joined in one harmonious chorus — " The 
Manyema are bad, bad, bad, awfullj'' bad, and cannibals." 

In going west of Bambarre, in order to embark on the 
Lualaba, I went down the Luamo, a river of from one hun- 
dred to two hundred yards broad, which rises in the moun- 
tains opposite XJjiji and flows across the great bend of the 
Lualaba. When near its confluence I found myself among 
people who had lately been maltreated b}^ the slaA'es, and 
they naturally'" looked upon me as of the same tribe as 
their persecutors. Africans are not generally unreasonable, 
though smarting under wrongs, if jou can fairly make 
them understand your claim to innocence, and do not ap- 
pear as having 3'our "back up." The women here were 
paticularlj^ outspoken in asserting our identity with the 
cruel strangers. On calling to one vociferous lady, who 
gave me the head trader^s name, to look at my color and 
see if it were the same as his, she replied with a bitter little 
laugh, " Then 3'ou must be his father." The worst the men 
did was to turn out in force, armed with their large spears 
and wooden shields, and show us out of their districts. 
Glad that no collision took place, we returned to Bambarre, 
and then, with our friend Muhamcd, struck awa}'^ due north; 
he to buy ivory, and I to reach another part of Lualaba 
and buy a canoe. 

The country is extremely beautiful, but difficult to travel 
over. The mountains of light gray granite stand like is- 
lands in new red sandstone, and mountain and valley are 
all clad in a mantle of difl'erent shades of green. The ve- 
getation is indescribably rank. Through the grass — if grass 
it can be called, which is over half an inch in diameter in 
the stalk and from ten to twelve feet high — nothing but 
elephants can walk. The leaves of this megatherium grass 
are armed with minute spikes ; which, as we worm our way 
along elephant walks, rub disagreeably on the side of the 



A SLOUGH OF DESPOND. 5S5 

face where the guii is lield, and the hand is made sore by 
fending it off tlie other side for hours. The rains were 
fiiirl}^ set in by November; and in the mornings, or after a 
shower, these leaves were loaded witli moisture which wet 
us to tlie bone. The valle3^s are deeply undulating, and in 
each innumerable dells have to be crossed. There may be 
only a thread of water at the bottom, but the mud, mire, 
or (ScoUicc) " glaur " is grievous ; thirt}^ or fort}'' 3'ards of 
the path on each side of the stream are worked by the feet 
(;f passengers into an adhesive compound. By placing a 
fjot on each side of the narrow ^vsiy one may waddle a 
little distance along, but the rank crop of grasses, gingers 
and bushes cannot share the few inches of soil required for 
the side of the foot, and down he comes into the slough. 
The path often runs along the bed of the rivulet for sixty 
or more yards, as if he who first cut it out went that dis- 
tance seeking for a part of the forest less dense for iiis axe. 
In other cases the muale palm, from which here, as in Ma- 
dagascar, grass-cloth is woven and called b}^ the same name, 
" lamba," has taken possession of the A^alley. The leaf 
stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm, fall off and block 
up all passage save b}^ a path made and mixed up l)y the 
feet of elephants and buffaloes ; the slough therein is groan- 
compelling and deep. 

Ever}^ now and then the traders, with rueful faces, stand 
panting ; the sweat trickles down my face, and I suppose 
that I look as grim as the}', though I try to cheer them 
with the hope that good prices will reward them at tlie 
coast for ivory obtained with so much toil. In some cases 
the subsoil has given way beneath the elephants' enormous 
Aveight ; the deep hole is filled with mud, and one, taking 
it to be all about calf deep, steps in to the top of the thiglj, 
and flaps on to a seat soft enough, but not luxurious; a 
merry laugh rela.xes the facial muscles, though I have no 
other reason for it than that it is better to laugh than 
to cry. 

Some of the numerous rivers which in this region flow 



536 BRIDGES OP GRASS. 

into Lualaba are covered with living vegetable bridges ; a 
species of dark glossy-leaved grass, with its roots and 
leaves, felts itself into a mat that covers the whole stream. 
When stepped upon it yields twelve or fifteen inches, and 
that amount of water rises up on the leg. At every step 
the foot has to be raised higl» enough to place it on the 
unbent mass in front. This high stepping fatigues like 
walking on deep snow. Here and there holes appear, whicli 
we could not sound with a stick six feet long ; they gave 
lis the impression that an3'whereone might plump through 
and finish the chapter. Where the water is shallow the 
lotus^ or sacred lily, sends its roots to the bottom, and 
spreads its broad leaves OA'er the floating bridge, so as to 
make believe that the mat is its own, but the grass referred 
to is the real felting and supporting agent, for it often per- 
forms duty as bridge where no lilies grow. The bridge is 
called by Man3'ema "KintefueteAve," as if he who first 
coined it was gasping for breath after plunging over a mile 
of it. 

Between each district of Manyema large belts of the 
primeval forest still stand. Into these the sun, though 
vertical, cannot penetrate, except by sending down at mid- 
day thin pencils of rays into the gloom. The rain water 
stands for months in stagnant pools made by the feet of 
elephants ; and the dead leaves deca}' on the damp soil, 
and make the water of the numerous rivulets of the color 
of strong tea. The climbing plants, from the size of a 
whip cord to that of a man-of-war's hawser, are so numerous 
the ancient path is the onl}' passage. When one of the 
giant trees falls across the road it forms a wall breast hiorh 
to be climbed over, and the mass of tangled ropes brought 
down makes cutting a path round it a work of time which 
travellers never undertake. 

The shelter of the forest from the sun makes it pleasant, 
but the roots of trees high out of the soil across the path 
keep the eyes, oxlike, on the ground. The trees are so 
high that a good shotgun does no harm to the parrots or 



GORILLA NESTS, 537 

guinea fowls on their tops, and they are often so closely 
planted that I have heard gorillas, here called " sokos," 
growling about fifty yards off without getting a glimpse 
of them. His nest is a poor contrivance ; it exhibits no 
more architectural skill than the nest of our Cushat dove. 
Here the " soko " sits in pelting rain, with his hands over 
his head. The natives give him a good character, and from 
what I have seen he deserves it, but they call his nest his 
house, and laugh at him for being such a fool as to build a 
house and not go beneath it for shelter. 

Bad water and frequent wettings told on us all, by cho- 
leraic symptoms and loss of flesh. Meanwhile the news of 
cheap ivory caused a sort of California gold fever at Ujiji, 
and we were soon overtaken by a horde numbering 600 
muskets, all eager for the precious tusks. These had been 
left by the Manyema in the interminable forests where the 
animals had been slain. The natives knew where they lay, 
and if treated civilly, readily brought them, many half 
rotten, or gnawed by a certain rodent to sharpen his teeth, 
as London rats do the leaden pipes. I had already in this 
journey two severe lessons that travelling in an unhealthy 
climate in the rainy season is killing work. B}^ getting 
drenched to the skin once too often in Marungu I had pneu- 
monia, the illness to which I have referred, and that was 
worse than ten fevers — that is fevers treated by our medi- 
cine and not by the dirfc supplied to Bishop Mackenzie at 
the Cape as the same. Besides being unwilling to bear 
the new comers' company, I feared that by further expo- 
sure in the rains the weakness might result in something 
worse. 

I went seven days southwards, to a camp formed b}' the 
head men of the ivory hord, and on the 1th of February 
went into winter quarters. I found these men as civil and 
kind as I could wish. 

A letter from the Sultan of Zanzibar, which I owe to the 
kindness of Sir Bartle Frere, has been of immense service 
to me with most of his subjects. I had no medicine; but 



538 AT THE MERCY OF HIS MEN. 

rest, shelter, boiling all the water I used, and a new potatoe 
found among the natives, as restoratives, soon put me all 
right. 

Tlie rains continued into July, and fifty-eight inches fell. 
The mud from the claN'e^^ soil was awful, and it laid up 
home of the strongest men, in spite of their intense eager- 
ness for ivory. 

I lost no time after it was feasible to travel in preparing 
to follow the river, but my attendants were fed and lodged 
1)3"^ the slave women, whose husbands were away from camp 
on trade, and pretended to fear going into a canoe."^ I con- 
sented to refrain from buying one. They then pretended lo 
fear the people, though the inhabitants all along the Lua- 
laba were reported by the slaves to be remarkably friendly. 
I have heard both slaves and freemen say, " No one will 
ever attack people so good," as the}- found them. Else- 
where I could employ the country people as carriers, and 
■was comparatively independent, though deserted by some 
four times over. But in Manyema no one can be induced 
to go into the next district, for fear, they sa}', of being 
killed and eaten. 

I was at the mercy of those who had been Moslem slaves, 
and knew that in thwarting me they had the sympath}'^ of 
all that class in the country ; and as many others would 
have done, took advantage of the situation. 

I went on with only three attendants, and this time 
northwest, in ignorance that the great river flows west and 
by south ; but no one could tell me anything about it. 

A broad belt of buga, or prairie, lies along the right bank. 
Inland from this it is all primeval forest, with villages from 
eight to ten miles apart. One sees the sun only in the 
cleared spaces around human dwellings. From the facili- 
ties of escaping, the forest people are wilder and more dan- 
gerous than those on the buga lands. 

Muhamed's people went further on in the forest than I 
could, and came to the mountainous country of the Ba- 
legga, who collected in large numbers and demanded of the 



MOUNTAINS AND HOT SPRINGS. _ 539 

strangers why the}' came. "We came to bu}' ivory," was 
the reply, " and if you have none, no harm is done ; we 
shall return." "Nay!" they shouted, "you came to die, 
and this day is your last ; 3'ou came to die — you came to 
die!" When forced to fire on the Balegga, the terror was 
like their insolence — extreme. And next day, when sent 
for to take away the women and children who were cap- 
tured, no one appeared. 

Having travelled with my informants, I knew their ac- 
counts to be trustworthy. The rivers crossed by them are 
numerous and large. One was so tortuous, they were five 
hours in water waist and often neck deep, with a man in a 
small canoe, sounding for places which they could pass. 
In another case they were two hours in the water, and they 
could see nothinor in the forest, and nothins: in the Baleocra 
countr}'', but one mountain packed closel}^ on the back of 
another, without end, and a very hot fountain in one of the 
valle3s. 

I found continual wading in mud grievous; for the first 
time in my life my feet failed. AVhen torn by hard travel, 
instead of healing kindly, as heretofore, irritable ulcers 
fastened on each foot. The people were invariably civil, 
and even kind ; for, curiously enough, the Zanzibar slaves 
propagated everywhere glowing accounts of my goodness, 
and of the English generally, because they never mado 
slaves. 

A trading party passed us, and one of their number was 
pinned to the ground by a spear at dead of night, while I 
was sleeping, with my three attendants, at a village close 
by. Nine villages had been burned, and, as the author of 
the outrage told me, at least forty men killed, because a 
Manyema man tried to steal a string of beads. The mid- 
night assassination was revenge for the loss of friends 
there. It was evident that reaction against the bloody 
slaving had set in. 

The accounts, evidently truthful, given by Muhamed's 
people showed that nothing would be gained by going fur- 



640 LAID UP WITH ULCERATED FEET. 

ther in our present coarse, and being now very lame, I 
limped back to Bambarre, and here I was laid up by the 
eating ulcers for many months. They are common in the 
Manyema country, and kill many slaves. If the foot is 
placed on the ground, blood flows, and every night a dis- 
charge of bloody ichor flows, with pain that prevents sleep. 
Tiie wailing of the poor slaves, with ulcers that eat through 
everything, even bone, is one of the night sounds of a slave 
camp. They are probably allied to fever. 

I have been minute, even to triviality, that your Lord- 
ship ma}'' have a clear idea of the difficulties of exploration 
in this region. Satisfactory progress could only be made 
in canoes, with men accustomed to the work. I tried hard 
to get other men at Ujiji, but all the traders were eager to 
secure the carriers for themselves, and circulated the report 
that I would go from Manyema to my own countr}', and 
leave my people to shift for themselves, like Speke ; they 
knew perfectly that Speke's men left him first. It was like 
the case of certain Makololo, who left me on the Shire, and 
refused to carry back the medicine to their chief, for which 
they had come. I was afterwards accused by men similar 
to the Ujijans of having abandoned them, though I gave 
them cattle even after they deserted me — these being the 
wealth that they value most highl3^ 

Failing to obtain other men at Ujiji, I might have waited 
in comfort there till those for whom I had written should 
come from the coast, and my great weakness almost de- 
manded that I should do so ; but I had then, as now, an 
intense desire to finish the work and retire. But on learn- 
ing some parts of the history of the Lewale, or Arab 
Governor, of Unyanyembe, I had grave suspicions that my 
letters would be destroyed. He conducted the first English 
expedition from Zanzibar to Ujiji and Uvira, and back 
again to the coast, and was left unpaid till the Indian 
Government took the matter up and sent him $1000. He 
seems to be naturallj'^ an ill-conditioned mortal — a hater of 
the English. When I sent a stock of goods to be placed 



IVORY FEVER. 541 

in depot at Ujiji, to await my arrival, the Banyamwezi por- 
ters, as usual, brought them honestly to Unyanyembe ; the 
Governor then gave them in charge to his slave Saloom, 
who stopped the caravan ten da^'s on the way here, while 
he plundered it, and went off to buy ivory for his master, 
in Karajue. It was evident that he would do what he 
could to prevent evidence of the plundering from going to 
the coast ; and his agent at Ujiji, who knew all this, though 
I did not, after I had paid him in full all he asked to send 
the packet, with about fortj^ letters, returned it back to me 
with the message, " that he did not know what words these 
letters contained." Two of my friends protested strongly, 
and he took the packet. When I learned the character of 
the Governor, I lost all hope of any letters going to the 
coast, and took back my deserters, making allowance for 
their early education, and for the fact that they did well 
after Musa fled, up to the time a black Arab, who had long 
been a prisoner with Cazembe, joined us. He encouraged 
them to desert, and harbored them, and when they relented 
on seeing me go off to Bangweolo with only four followers, 
and proposed to follow me, he dissuaded them by the gratui- 
tous assertion that there was war in the country to which 
I was going ; and he did many other things which we think 
discreditable, though he got his liberty solely by the influ- 
ence I brought to Cazembe. Yet, judged by the East 
African Moslem standard, as he ought to be, and not by 
ours, he is a very good man ; and as I have learned to keep 
my own counsel among them, I never deemed it prudent 
to come to a rupture with the old "ne'er-do-well." 

Compelled to inactivity here for many months, I offered 
$1000 to some of the traders for the loan of ten of their 
people. This is more than that number of men ever obtain, 
but their imaginations were inflamed, and each expected to 
make a fortune by the ivory now lying rotting in the 
forests, and none would consent to my proposition till hia 
goods should be all expended, and no hope of more ivory 
remained. 
46 



542 GORILLA EATERS. 

I lived in what may be called the Ti[)pcrar3^ of Man3'ema, 
and tliey arc certainly a bloody people among themselves. 
But they are very far from being in appen ranee like the 
ugl}^ negroes on the West Coast. Finely lornied heads are 
common, and generally men and women are vastly snperior 
to the slaves of Zanzibar and elsewhere. We must 2:0 
deeper than phrenolog}' to account for their low moral tone. 
If they are cannibals, they are not ostentatiously so. The 
neigliboring tribes all assert that they are man-eaters, and 
they themselves laughingly admit the charge. But they 
like to impose on the credulous, and they showed the skull 
of a recent victim to horrify one of m3' people. I found it 
to be the skull of a gorilla, or soko — the first I knew of 
its existence here — and tliis they do eat. 

If I had believed a tenth of what I heard from traders, 
I might never have entered the country. Their people told 
tales with shocking circumstantiality, as if of e3'e-witnesses, 
that could not be committed to paper, or even spoken 
about beneath the breath. Indeed, one wishes them to 
vanish from memory. Bat fortunatel3'', I was never fright- 
ened in infancy with " bogie," and am not liable to attacks 
of what may almost be called " bogiephobia ;" for the 
patient, in a parox3*sm, believes ever3'thing horrible, if onl}'' 
it be ascribed to the possessor of a black skin. 

I have not 3'et been able to make up m3^ mind whether 
the Manyema arc cannibals or not. I have offered goods 
of sufficient value to tempt any of them to call me to see a 
cannibal feast in the dark forests where these orgies are 
said to be held, but hitherto in vain. All the real evidence 
3'et obtained would elicit from a Scotch jury the verdict 
Onlv'^ of " Not proven." 

Although I have not done half I hoped to accomplish, I 
trust 3'our Lordship's kind consideration to award me v'our 
approbation, and am, etc., 

David Livingstone, 
Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 



Q 



O 

o 

6E> 




musa's real character. 543 



Dr. Livingstone to Lord Clarendon. 

Ujijt, Nov. 1, 18tl. 

My Lord: — I became aware of Mr. Young's search ex- 
pedition onl}^ in February last, and that by a private letter 
I'rora Sir Roderick Murchison. Though late in expressing 
"my thankfulness, I am not the less sincere in saying that I 
feel extremely obliged to Her Majesty's Government, to 
the Admiral t}', to Captain Richards, to Sir Roderick Mur- 
chison, to Mr. Young, and all concerned in promoting the 
kind and vigorous inquiry after my fate. Had the low tono 
of morality among the East African Mohammedans been 
known, Musa's tale would have received but little atten- 
tion. Musa is, perhaps, a little better than the average 
low-class Moslem, but all are notorious for falsehood and 
heartlessness. 

When on the Shire we were in the habit of swinging the 
vessel out into midstream every evening, in order that the 
air set in motion by the current of the river might pass 
through her entire length the whole night long. One 
morning Musa's brother in-law stepped into the water in 
order to swim off for a boat, to bring his companions on 
board, and was seized by a crocodile ; the poor fellow held 
up his hand, as if imploring assistance, in vain. On de- 
nouncing Musa's heartlessness, he replied : " Well, no one 
tell him to go in there." At another time, wlien we were 
at Senona, a slave woman was seized by a crocodile; four 
Makololo rushed in unbidden and rescued her, though they 
knew nothing about her. Long experience leads me to 
look on these incidents as typical of the two races. The 
race of mixed blood possesses the vices of both parents, 
and the virtues of neither. J have had more service out 
of low-class Moslems than an}^ one else. The Baron Tan 
der Decken was plundered of all his goods by this class, in 
an attempt to go to Nyassa. As it was evidently done 
with the connivance of his Arab guide, Syed Majib ordered 



64l THE sultan's subjects. 

him to refunrl the whole. It was the same class that, by 
means of a few Soraauli, ultimately compassed the Baron's 
destruction. In Burton's expedition to Ujiji and A'irra, 
he was obliged to dismiss all his followers of this class afe 
T'jiji, for dishonesty, ^lost of Spcke's followers desertec^ 
)n the first appearance of danger, and Musa and com- 
panions fled on hearing a false rei)ort from a half caste 
Moslem like themselves, that he had been plundered by 
Mazitu, at a spot which, from having accompanied me 
thither and be^'ond it, they knew to be 150 miles, or say 
twentj' days distant, and I promised to go due west, and 
not turn northward until far past the beat of the Mazitu. 
But in former journeys we came through Portuguese, who 
would promptly have seized deserters ; while here, at the 
lower end of Nyassa, we were on the Kihva slave route, 
where all their countrymen would fawn on nnd flatter them 
for baffling the Nazarines, as they call us Christians. 

As soon as I turned my face west they all ran away, and 
the^Miad no other complaint but "the Mazitu." All my 
difficulties in this journey have arisen from having low- 
class Moslems, or those who have been so before thev were 
captured. Even of the better class, few can be trusted. 
The Sultan places all his income and pecuniary aflTairs in 
the hands of Banians, from India. AVhen the gentlemen 
of Zanzibar are asked why their Sultan entrusts his money 
to aliens alone, they readil}' answer it is owing to their own 
prevailing faithlessness. Some, indeed, assert, >vitli a 
laugh, that if their sovereign allowed any of them to farm 
his revenue, he would receive nothing but a croj) of lies. 
In their case religion and morality are completely dis- 
jointed. It is, therefore, not suri)rising that, in all their 
long intercouse with the tribes on the mainland, not one 
attempt has been made to propagate the Mohammedan 
faith. I am very fiir from being unwilling to acknowledge 
and even admire the zeal of other religionists than the 
Christian; but rej)eated inquiries among all classes have 
only left the conclusion that they have propagated syphilis 



I 



A TRAMP OP FOUR HUNDRED MILES. 545 

and the domestic biisj alone. An}' one familiar with the 
secondary symptoms will see at a glance, on the mainland, 
the skin diseases and bleared eyes, which say that unlimited 
polygamy has been no barrier to the spread of liiis foul 
disease. Compared with them, tlie English lower classes 
are gentlemen. 

1 am unfeignedly thankful for the kindness that prompted 
and carried out the Search Expedition, and am, etc., 

David Livingstone, 
Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 

P. S. — Nov. 15. — I have just learned that Musa and com- 
panions, after breaking their engugement to serve for 
twenty'' months, which was formally' entered into before 
Mr. Sunley, went to that gentleman, and, after solemnly 
assuring him that 1 ha<l been murdered, demanded pay for 
all the time they had been absent, and received it. They 
received from me advance of pa}' and clothing, amounting 
to £40 sterling. I now transmit the particulars to Dr. 
Kirk, the political agent, and demand that the advances, 
and also the pay, should be refunded ; for if the}'^ are 
allowed to keep both as the reward of falsehood, the pun- 
ishment enjoined to be inflicted by Lord Stanley will only 
be laughed at. D. L. 

Dr. Livingstone to Lord Clarendon. 

Vjjji/Nov. l^t, 1871. 
My Lord: — I wrote a very hurried letter on the 28lh ult., 
and sent it by a few men who had resolved to run ihe risk 
of passing through contending parties of Bantam wezi and 
mainland Arabs at Unynnyembe, which is some twenty 
days cast of this. I had just come off a tramp of moro 
than four hundred miles, beneath a vertical torrid sun, and 
was so jaded in body and mind by being forced back by 
faithless, cowardly attendants that I could have written 
little more, though the messenojers had not been in such a 
hurry to depart as they wore. I have now the prospect of 
4G* 



546 THE WATERSHED OF THE NILE. 

sending this safely to the coast by a friend ; but so many 
of my letters have disappeared at Un3^anyembe when en- 
trusted to the care of the Leuale, or Governor, who is 
merely the trade agent of certain Banians, that I shall con- 
sider that of the 28th as one of the unfortunates, and give 
in this as much as I can recall. 

I have ascertained that the watershed of the Nile is a 
broad upland between ten degrees and twelve degrees south 
latitude, and from 4000 to 5000 feet above the level of the 
sea. Mountains stand on it at various points, which, though 
apparently not very high, are between 6000 and tOOO feet 
of actual altitude. The watershed is over 'lOO miles in 
length from west to east. The springs that rise on it are 
almost innumerable — that is, it would take a large part of 
a man's life to count them. A bird's eye view of some 
parts of the vratershed would resemble the frost vegetation 
on window panes. They all begin in an ooze at the head 
of a slightly depressed valle3^ A few hundred j^ards down 
the quantity of water from oozing earthen sponge forms a 
brisk perennial burn or brook a few feet broad, and deep 
enough to require a bridge. These are the ultimate or 
primar^^ sources of the great rivers that flow to the north 
in the great Nile valley. Tlie primaries unite and form 
streams in general larger than the Tsis at Oxford, or Avon 
at Hamilton, and may be called secondary sources. They 
never dry, but unite again into four large lines of drainage, 
the head waters or mains of the river of Egypt. These 
four are each called by the natives Lualaba, which, if not 
too pedantic, may be spoken of as lacustrine rivers, extant 
specimens of those which in prehistoric times abounded in 
Africa, and which in the south are still called by Bechua- 
nas "Melapo," in the north, b}^ Arabs, " Wadys ; " both 
words meaning the same thing — riverbed in which no water 
ever flows. Two of the four great rivers mentioned fall 
into the central Lualaba, or Webb's Lake River, and then 
we have but two main lines of drainage as depicted nearly 
by Ptolemy', 



A SPRING EVERY TWO MILES. 547 

The prevailing winds on the watershed are from the 
southeast. This is easily observed bj^ the direction of the 
branches, and the humidity of the climate is apparent in 
the numbers of lichens which make the upland forest look 
like the mangrove swamps on the coast. 

In passing over sixty miles of latitude I waded thirty- 
two primary sources from calf to waist deep, and requiring 
from twenty minutes to an hour and a quarter to cross 
sti'eam and sponge. This would give about one source to 
every two miles. 

A Suaheli friend in passing along part of the Lake 
Bangweolo during six days counted twenty-two from thigh 
to waist deep. This lake is on the watershed, for the vil- 
lage at which I observed on its northwest shore was a few 
seconds into eleven degrees south, and its southern shores 
and springs and rivulets are certainly in twelve degrees 
south. I tried to cross it in order to measure the breadth 
accurately. The first stage to an inhabited island was 
about twenty-four miles. From the highest point here the 
tops of the trees, evidently lifted by the mirage, could be 
seen on the second stage and the third stage; the mainland 
was seen to be as far as this beyond it. But mycanoemen 
had stolen the canoe, and got a hint that the real owners 
were in pursuit and got into a flurry to return home. 
" They would come back for me in a few da^^s trul}^" but I 
had only my coverlet left to hire another craft if they 
should leave me in this wide expanse of water, and being 
4000 feet above the sea it was very cold ; so I returned. 

The length of this lake is, at a very moderate estimate, 
150 miles. It gives forth a large body of water in the 
Luapula ; yet lakes are in no sense sources, for no large 
river begins in a lake : but this and others serve an im- 
portant purpose in the phenomena of the Nile. It is one 
large lake, and unlike the Okara, which, according to Sua- 
heli, who travelled long in our company, is three or four 
lakes run into one huge Victoria Nyanza, gives out a large 
river which, on departing out of Moero, is still larger. 



548 THE WHITE NILE. 

These men had spent many years east of Okara, and could 
scarcely be mistaken in saying that of the three or four 
lakes there only one (the Okara) gi\'cs off its waters to 
the north. 

The " White Nile " of Speke, less by a full half than the 
Shire out of Nyassa (for it is only eight}' or ninety yards 
broad) can scarcely be named in comparison with the cen- 
tral or Webb's Lualaba, of two thousand yards, in relation 
to the phenomena of the Nile. The structure and econom}' 
of the watershed answer ver}' much the same end as the 
great lacustrine rivers, but I cannot at present cop}- a lost 
despatch which explains that. The mountains on the water- 
shed are probably what Ptolemy, for reasons now unknown, 
called the Mountains of the Moon. From their bases I 
found that the springs of the Nile do unquestionabl}' arise. 
This is just what Ptolemj^ put down, and is true jreography. 
We must accept the fountains, and nobody but Philistines 
will reject the mountains, though we cannot conjecture 
the reason for the name. 

Mounts Kenia and Kilimanjaro are said to be snow- 
capped, but they are so far from the sources, and send no 
water to any part of the Nile, the}' could never have been 
meant by the correct ancient explorers, from whom Ptolemy 
and his predecessors gleaned their true geography, so dif- 
ferent from the trash that passes current in modern times. 

Before leaving the subject of the watershed, I may add 
that I know about six hundred miles of it, ]>ut am not yet 
satisfied, for unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most 
interesting of the whole. I have a veiy strong impression 
that in the last hundred miles the fountains of the Nile 
mentioned to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in 
the city of Sais do arise, not like all the rest, from oozing 
earthen sponges, but from an earthen mound, and half the 
irater flows northward toward Egypt, the other half south 
to Inner Ethiopia. These fountains, at no great distance 
off, become large rivers, though at the mound they are not 
more then ten miles apart. That is one fountain rising on 



PEAR OF HYDROCEPHALUS. 549 

the northeast of the raouud becomes Baitle Fiere's Lua- 
laba, aii<l it Hows into one of the hikes proper, Komolondo, 
of the central line of drainage; Webli's Lualaba, the second 
fountain rising on the northwest, becomes (Sir Paraffin) 
Young's Lualaba, which })assing tiirough Lake Lincoln 
and becoming Locki or Loinami, and joining the central 
line too, goes north to Egypt. The third fountain on the 
southwest, Palmerstone's, becomes tlie Liambia or Upper 
Zambesi, w^hile the fourth, Oswell's fountain, becomes the 
Kafue and falls into Sambesi in Inner Ethiopia. 

More time lias been spent in exploration then I ever an- 
ticipated. My bare expenses never paid for two years ; 
but had I left when the mone3' was expended I could have 
given little more information about the country than the 
Portuguese, who, in their three slave-trading expeditions 
to Cazembe, asked for slaves and ivorj' alone, and heard 
of nothiuix else. From one of the sul)ordinates of their 
last so-called expedition I learnt that it was believed that 
the Luapula went to Angola ! I asked about the waters 
until I was ashamed, and almost afraid of being set down 
as afflicted with hydrocephalus. 1 liad to feel my way, and 
every step of the way, and was generally groping in the 
dark; for who cared where tlie rivers ran t Many a weary 
foot I trod ere I got a clear idea of the drainage of the 
great Nile valley. The most intelligent natives and traders 
thought that all the rivers of the upper part of that valley 
flowed into Tanganyika. But the barometers told me that 
to do so the water must flow up hill. The great rivers and 
the great lakes all make their waters converge into the 
deep trough of the valley, which is a fidl inch of Jthe baro- 
meter lower than the Upper Tanganyika. It is only a 
sense of duty, which I trust your lordship will approve, 
that makes me remain and, if possible, finish the geogra- 
phical question of m^^ mission. After being thwarted, baf- 
fled, robbed, worried almost to death in following the cen- 
tral line of drainage down, I have a sore longing forborne; 
have had a- perfect surfeit of seeing strange, new lands and 



650 SICK OF STRANGE COUNTRIES, 

people, grand mountains, lovely vallej^s, the glorious veore- 
tation of primeval forests, wild beasts and an endless suc- 
cession of beautiful man ; besides great rivers and vast 
lakes — the last the most interestiui^ from their huse out- 
flowings, which explain some of the phenomena of the 
grand old Nile. 

Let me explain, but in no boastful style, the mistakes of 
others who have bravely striven to solve the ancient pro- 
blem, and it will be seen that I have cogent reasons for 
following the painful, plodding investigation to its conclu- 
sion. Poor Speke's mistake was a foregone conclusion. 
When be discovered the Victoria N^anza he at once jumped 
to the conclusion that tlierein lay the sources of tlie river 
of Egypt, "20,000 square miles of water " confused by 
sheer immensity. 

Ptolemy's small lake " Coloc " is a more correct repre- 
sentation of the actual size of that one of three or four 
lakes which alone sends its outflow to the north. Its name 
is Okara. Lake Kavi rondo is three days distant from it, 
but connected by a narrow arm. Lake Naibash orNeibash, 
is four days from Kavirondo. Baringo is ten days distant, 
and discharges by a river, the Nagardabash, to the north- 
east. 

These three or four lakes, which have been described by 
several intelligent Suaheli, who have lived for many years 
on their shores, were run into one huge Victoria Nyanza. 
But no sooner did Speke and Grant turn their faces to this 
lake, to prove that it contained the Nile fountains, than 
they turned their backs to the springs of the river of 
Egypt, wliich are between four hundred and five hundred 
miles south of the most southerly portion of the Victoria 
Lake. Every step of their heroic and really splendid achieve- 
ment of followinor the river down took them further and 
further from the sources they sought. But for the devotion 
t*o the foregone conclusion the sight* of the little "White 
Nile," as, unable to account for that great river, they must 
have turned off to the west down into the deep trough of 



baker's mistake. 551 

the great valley, and there found lacustrine rivers amply 
sufficient to account for the -Nile and all its phenomena. 

The next explorer, Baker, believed as honestly as Speke 
and Grant that in the Lake River Albert he had a second 
source of the Nile to that of Speke. He came further up 
the Nile than any other in modern times, but turned when 
between six hundred and seven liundred miles short of the 
Caput Nili. He is now employed in a more noble work 
than the discovery of the Nile sources ; and if, as all must 
earnestly wish, he succeeds in suppressing the Nile slave- 
trade, the boon he will bestow on humanity will be of far 
liigher value than all my sources together. 

When intelligent men like these and Bruce have been 
mistaken, I have naturally felt anxious that no one should 
come after me and find sources south of mine, which I now 
think can only be possible by water running up the south- 
ern slope of the watershed. 

But all that can in modern times and in common modesty 
be fairly claimed is the rediscovery of what had been sunk 
into oblivion, like the circumnavigation of Africa b}^ the 
Plioenician admirals of one of the Pharaohs about b. c. 
000. He was not believed, because he reported that in 
passing round Libya he had the sun on liis right hand. 
This to us, who have gone round the Cape from east to west 
stamps his tale as genuine. 

The predecessors of Ptolem}^ probably gained their in- 
formation from men who visited this very region, for in the 
second century of our era he gave in substance what we 
now find to be genuine geography. 

The springs of the Nile, rising in ten degrees to twelve 
degrees south latitude, and their waters collecting into two 
large lacustrine rivers, and othei* facts, could have been 
learned onl}' from primitive travellers or traders — the true 
discoverers of what emperors, kings, philosophers, all tiie 
great minds of antiquit}^ longed to know, and longed in 
vain. 

In a letter of November 1870, now enclosed, I have tried 



552 GEOGRAnilCAL RESULTS. 

to give an idea of the difRciilties encountered in following 
up the central line of drainage through the country of the 
cannibals, called Manyuema or Manyema. I found it a 
3'ear afterwni'ds, where it was left. Other letters had made 
no furtlier progress to tlie coast ; in fact Manyenia country 
is an entirely new lieM, and nothing like postage exists, 
nor can letters be sent to Ujiji except by large trading 
parties who have s[)ent two or three moriths in Manyema. 

The geogra[>hical results of lour arduous trips in differ- 
ent directions in the Manyema country, are briefly as 
follows: — The great river, Webb's Lualaba, in the centre 
of the Nile valley, makes a great bend to the west, soon 
after leaving Lake Moero, of at least one hundred and 
eighty miles; then turning to the north for some distance, 
it makes another largo sweep west of about one hundred 
and twenty miles, iji the course of which about thirty 
miles of southing are made; it then draws round to north- 
east, receives the Lomani, or Locki, a large river which 
flows throu<):h Lake Lincoln. After the union a larofe lake 
is formed, with many inhabited islands in it; but this has 
still to l)e explored. It is the fourth lai'ge lake in the cen- 
tral line of drainage, and cannot be lake Albert ; for assum- 
ing Speke's longitude of Ujiji to be prett}^ correct, and my 
reckoning not enormously wrong, the great central lacus- 
trine river is about five degrees west of Upper and Lower 
Tanganyika. 

The mean of man}' barometric and boiling point obser- 
vations made Upper Tanganyika 2880 feet higii. Kespect 
for Si)eke's memory made me hazard the conjecture that he 
found it to be nearly the same, but from the habit of writ- 
ing the Annum Domiiu a mere slip of the pen made him 
sa}^ 1844 feet; but I have more confidence in the baro- 
meters then in the boiling points, and they make Tangan- 
3'ika over 3000 feet, and the lower part of Central Lualaba 
one inch lower, or about the altitude ascribed to Gondokoro. 

Beyond the fourlli lake the water passes, it is said, into 
large reedy lakes, and is in all probability Petherick'a 



A RACE OF CANNIBALS. 5 S3 

branch — the main stream of the Nile — in distinction from 
the smaller eastern arm which Speke, Grant and Baker took 
to be the river of Egypt. 

The Man3'ema could give no information abont their 
country, because they never travel. Blood feuds often 
prevent them from visiting villages three or four miles off, 
and many at a distance of about thirty miles did not know 
the great river, althougli named to them. No trader had 
gone so far as I had, and their people cared -enly for ivory. 

In my attempts to penetrate further and further I had 
but little hopes of ultimate success, for tlie great amount 
of westing led to a continued effort to suspend the judg- 
ment, lest, after all, I might be exploring the Congo in- 
stead of the Nile, and it was only after the two great west- 
ern drains fell into the central main, and left but the two 
great lacustrine rivers of Ptolemy, that I felt pretty siiro 
of beino- on the risfht track. 

Tlie great bends west probably form one side of the great 
rivers above that geographical loop, the other side being 
Upper Tanganyika and the Lake River Albert. A water- 
fall is reported to exist between Tanganyika and Albert 
N^'anza, but I could not go to it ; nor have I seen the con- 
necting link between the two — the upper side of the loop^ 
though I believe it exists. 

The Manj'ema are certainly cannibals, but it was long 
ere I could get evidence more positive than would have led 
a Scotch jury to give a verdict of "Not proven." They 
eat only enemies killed in war; thc}'- seem as if instigated 
by revenge in their man-eating orgies, and on these occa- 
sions they do not like a stranger to see them. I offered a 
large reward in vain to au}^ one who would call me to wit- 
ness a cannibal feast. Some intelligent men have told mo 
that the meat is not nice, and mnde them dream of the 
dead. The womon never partake, and I am glad of it, for 
many of them, far down Lualaba, are very i)rctty ; thoy 
batiie three or four times a day, and are expert divers for 
o^-sters. 
47 



654 WORKERS IN IRON AND COPPER. 

Markets are held at stated times, and the women attend 
them in large luitnbers, dressed in their best. The}'' are 
light-colored, have straight noses, finely formed heads, 
small hands and feet, and perfect forms ; they are keen 
traders, and look on the market as a great institution ; to 
liaggle, and joke, and laugh, and cheat, seem the enjo}'- 
ments of life. The population, especially west of the 
river, is prodigiously large. 

Near Lomani, the Bakuse, or Bakoons, cultivate coffee, 
and drink it highly scented with vanilla. Food of all 
kinds is extremely abundant and cheap. The men smelt 
iron from the black oxide ore, and are very good smiths ; 
they also smelt copper from the ore, and make large orna- 
ments very cheaply. They are generally fine, tall, strap- 
ping fellows, far superior to the Zanzibar slaves, and noth- 
ing of the West Coast negro, from whom our ideas of 
Africans are chiefly derived, appears among them ; no 
prognathous jaws, barn-door mouth, nor lark heels are seen. 
Their defects arise from absolute ignorance of all the 
world ; besides, strangers never appeared among them be- 
fore. The terror that guns inspire generally among the 
Manj'ema, seems to arise among the Bakuss, from an idea 
that the}' are supernatural. The effect of a gunshot on a 
goat was shown, in onler to convince them that the traders 
had power, and that the instruments the}^ carried were not, 
as the}' imagined, the mere insignia of chieftainship ; they 
looked up to the skies, and offered to bring ivory to pur- 
chase the charm by wliich lightning was drawn down ; and 
afterwards, when the traders tried to force a passage which 
was refused, they darted aside on seeing Banyamwezi's 
followers place the arrows in the bow-strings, but stood in 
mute amazement while the guns mowed them down in great 
numbers. They use long spears in the thick vegetation of 
their country, with great dexterity, and they have told me 
frankly, what was self-evident, that but for the firearms, 
not one of the Zanzibar slaves or half castes would ever 
leave the country. 



WANT OF POLITICAL COHESION. 555 

There is not a single great chief in all Manycraa. No 
matter what name the different divisions of people bear — 
Manyeraa, Balegga, Babire, Bazire, Bakoos — there is no 
political cohesion ; not one king or kingdom. Each man 
is independent of every other. The people are industrious, 
and most of them cultivate the soil larsjely. We found 
them everj'vvhere very honest. When detained at Bam- 
barre, we had to send our goats and fowls to the Man3'eraa 
villages, to prevent them being all stolen b}- the Zanzibar 
slaves. The slave owners had to do the same. 

Man3'ema land is the onl}'^ country in Central Africa I 
have seen where cotton is not cultivated, spun, and woven. 
The clothing is that known in Madagascar, as*'lambas," 
or grass cloth, made from the leaves of the ** Muale " 
palm. 

They call the good spirit above " Ngidu," or the Great 
One, and the spirit of evil, who resides in the deep. ** Mu- 
lambu.'' A hot fountain near Bambarre is supposed to be- 
long to tliis being, the author of death by drowning and 
other misfortunes. Yours, etc., 

David Livingstone, 
Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa, 

Dr, Livingstone to Earl Granville, 

Ujiji, Nov. H, 1871. 
My Lord: — In m}^ letter dated Bambarre, I lovember, 
1870, now enclosed, 1 stated my grave susi)ieioas that a 
packet of about forty letters — despatches, copies of all the 
astronomical observations from the coast onwards, and 
6k(;tch maps on tracing paper, intended to com ey a clear 
idea of all the discoveries up to tlie time of arrival at 
Ujiji — would be destroyed. It was delivered to the agent 
here of the Governor of Unyanyembe, and I pai<l him in 
full all he demanded to transmit it to Syde bin Salem 
Buraschid, the so-c;dled Governor, who is merely a trado 
fto-ent of certain Banians of Zanzibar, and a person who is 



556 AN AFRICAN POLITICAL RING. 

reputed dishonest by all. As an agent, he pilfers from his 
employers, be the}^ Banians or Arabs ; as a Governor, ex- 
pected to exercise the office of a magistrate, he dispenses 
justice to him who pays most; and as the subject of a Sul- 
tan, who entrusted him because he had no power on the 
mainland to supersede him, he robs his superior shame- 
lessl3^ No Arab or native ever utters a good word for 
him, but all detest him for his injustice. 

The following narrative requires it to be known that his 
brother, Ali bin Salem Bnraschid, is equally notorious for 
unblushing dishonesty. All Arabs and Europeans who 
have had dealings with either, speak in unmeasured terms 
of their fraud and duplicity; The brothers are employed 
in trade, chiefly by Ludlia Damji, the richest Banian in 
Zanzibar. 

It is well known that the slave trade in this country is 
carried on almost entirely with his money, and that of 
other Banian British subjects. The Banians advance the 
goods required, and the Arabs proceed inland as their 
agents, perform the trading, or rather murdering, and when 
slaves and ivory are brought to the coast, the Arabs sell 
the slaves. The Banians pocket the price, and adroitly 
let the odium rest on their agents. As a rule, no travelling 
Arab has money enough to undertake an inland journey. 
Those who have become rich imitate the Banians, and send 
their indigent countrymen and slaves to trade for them. 
The Banians could scared}^ carr3^on their S3'stem of trade, 
were they n( f. in possession of the Custom House, and had 
power to se'/e all the goods that pass through it to pay 
themselves lor debts. The so-called Governors are ap- 
pointed on ' heir recommendation, and become mere trade 
agents. W^en the Arabs in the interior are assaulted by 
the natives, they never unite under a Governor as a leader, 
for they know that defending them, or concerting means 
for their safety, is no part of his duty. The Arabs are 
nearly all in debt to the Banians, and the Banian slaves 
are employed in ferreting out every trade transaction of 



THE DANGEIIS OF THE AFRICAN POST-OFFICE. 657 

the debtors, and when watched by Governor's slaves and 
Custom House otticers, it is scarcely possible for even this 
cunning, deceilful race to escape being fleeced. To avoid 
this, many surrender all their ivor^- to their Banian credi- 
tors, and are allowed to keep or sell the slaves as their 
share of the profits. It will readily be perceived that the 
prospect of in any way coming under the power of Banian 
British subjects at Zanzibar is veiy far from reassuring. 

The packet above referred to was never more heard of, 
but a man called Musa Kamaah had been employed to 
drive some buffaloes for me from the coast, and on leavinir 
Ujiji the same da}' the packet was delivered for transmis- 
sion, 1 gave him a short letter, dated Ma}', 18G9, which he 
concealed on his person, knowing that on its production 
his wages depended. He had been a spectator of the plun- 
dering of m}' goods by the Governor's slave, Saloom, and 
received a share to hold his peace. He was detained for 
months at Un3'an3^embe by the Governor, and even sent 
back to Ujiji on his private business, he being ignorant all 
tile while that Kamaah possessed the secreted letter. It 
was the only document of more than fort}' that reached 
Zanzibar. It made known in some measure my w^ants, but 
my checks on Bombay for money were in the lost packet, 
and Ludha, the rich Banian, was employed to furnish on 
credit all the goods and advances of pay required in the 
expedition. Ludha is, i)erhaps, the best of all the Banians 
of Zanzibar, but he applied to Ali bin Salem, the brother 
of his agent, the Governor, to furnish two head men to 
conduct the goods and men to Ujiji, and beyond it, 
wherever I might be there reported to be. lie recom- 
mended Shereef Bosher and Awathe as first and second 
conductors of the caravan. Shereef, the Governor, and 
the Governor's brother, being "birds of one feather," tlie 
consequences might have been foretold. No sooner did 
Shereef obtain command than he went to one Muhamed 
Nassur, a Zanzibar-born Banian, or Hindoo, and lie ad- 
vanced twenty-five boxes of soap and ciglit cases of brandy 



558 AFRICAN TRADE. 

for trade. He then went to Bagomoyo, on the mainland, 
and received from two Banians there, whose names are to 
be unknown, quantities of opium and gunpowder, which, 
with the soap and brand}', were to be retailed b}'^ Shereef 
on the journej'. In the Bagomo^'o Banian's house, Shereef 
))roke the soap boxes and stowed the contents and the 
opium in my bales of calico, in order that the pagazi or 
carriers paid by me should carry them. Other pagazi wei'c 
employed to carry the cases of brand}'- and kegs of gun- 
powder, and paid with my cloth. Henceforth, all the ex- 
penses of the journey were defra3'ed out of m\' property ; 
and while retailing the barter goods of his Banian accom- 
plices, he was in no hurry to relieve my wants, but spent 
fourteen months between the coast and Ujiji, a distance 
which could easily have been accomplished in three. 
Making every allowance for detention by sickness in the 
party, and by sending back for men to replace the first 
pagazi, who perished by cholera, the dela3S were quite 
shameless. Two months at one spot, two months at 
another place, and two months at a third, without reason, 
except desire to retail his brand}', etc., which some simple 
people think Moslems never drink ; but he was able to send 
back from Un3*anyembe over £600 worth of ivor}', the 
pagazi again paid from m}^ stores. He then ran riot with 
the supplies, all the wa}' purchasing the most expensive 
food for himself, his slaves, and his women, the country 
afforded. When he reached Ujiji, his retail trade for the 
Banians and himself was finished, and in defiance of his 
engagement to follow wherever I led, and men from a camp 
eight days be^yond Bambarre went to Ujiji and reported to 
him that I was near and waiting for him, he refused their 
invitations to return with them. 

The Banians, who advanced their goods for retail by 
Shereef, had, in fact, taken advantage of the notorious 
East African Moslem duplicity to interpose their own 
trade. Speculation between the two Government officers, 
and almost within the shadow of the Consulate, supplants 



I 



THE SUPPLIES WASTED. 559 

Dr. Kirk's attempt to aid me, by a fraudulent conversion 
of the help expedition to the gratification of their own 
greed. Shereef was their ready tool ; and having at Ujiji 
finished the Banian trade, he acted as if he had forgotten 
having ever been emploved by any one else. Here the 
drunken half caste Moslem tailor lay intoxicated at times 
for a whole month ; the drink — palm toddy and tombe — all 
bouglit with my beads, of course. 

Awathe, the other head man, was a spectator of all the 
robber}^ from the coast onwards, and never opened liis 
mouth in remonstrance, or in sending notice to the Consul. 
He had carefully concealed an inlirmity when engaged, 
wliich rendered him quite incapable of performing a single 
duty for me, and he now asserts, like the Johanna de- 
serters, that he ought to be paid all his wages in full. I 
shall narrate below how seven of the Banian slaves bought 
by Shereef and Awathe imitated their leaders and refused 
to go forward, and ultimately, by falsehood and cowardice, 
forced me to return between four and five hundred miles. 
But here I may mention how Shereef finished up his ser- 
vices. He wrote to his friend, the Governor of Unyan- 
yembe, for permission to sell the df.brU of my goods, *' be- 
cause," said he, " I sent slaves to Man3'ema to search for 
the Doctor, but thev returned and said he w'as dead." He 
also divined on the Koran, and it told the same tale. 

It is scarcely necessary to add that he never sent slaves 
in search of me, and from the people above mentioned, who 
returned from a camp in front of Bambarre, he learned that 
I was alive and well. So, on his own authorit}^ and that 
of the Koran, he sold off the remaining goods at merely 
nominal prices, to his friends, for ivoi\y and slaves for him- 
self, and I latel}^ returned to find myself destitute of every- 
thing except a very few articles of barter, which I took the 
precaution to leave here, in case of extreme need. 

I have stated the case to Dr. Kirk, acting political agent 
and Consul at Zanzibar, and claim, as simple justice, that 
the Banians, who are rich English suljects, should, for 



560 ZANZIBAR INTEREST. 

Stepping in between me and the supplies sent, be compelloil 
to refund the entire expenses of the frustrated expedition, 
and all the high interest — twenty or twenty-five per cent, 
thereon — set down against me in Ludha's books ; if not 
also the wages of my peojjle and personal expenses for two 
years, the time during which, by tlieir surreptitious agent, 
Sliereef, my servants and self were prevented from exe- 
cuting our regular duty. 

The late Sultan, Sej^ed Majid, compelled the Arab who 
connived at the plunder of all the Baron Yan der Decken's 
goods in a vain attempt to reach Lake K3'assa, to refund 
the whole. It is inconceivable that the dragoman and other 
paid servants of the Consulate were ignorant of the fraud 
practised by the Banians on Dr. Kirk and me. 

All the Banians and Banian slaves were perfectly well 
aware of Muhamed Nassur's complicit}^ Tlie villany of 
saddling on me all the expenses of their retail venture of 
soap, brand}'', opium, and gun[)owder, was perpetrated in 
open day, and could not escape the notice of the paid 
agents of the Consul ; but how this matter was concealed 
from him, and also the dishonest characters of Syed bin 
Ali Buraschid and Shereef, it is difficult to conceive. Tiie 
oft repeated asseveration of Shereef, tliat he acted through- 
out on the advice of Ludha, may have a ray of truth in it. 
But a little gentle pressure on Syed Burghash, the present 
Sultan, will probably insure the punishment of Shereef, 
although it is also highly probable that he will take refuge 
near the Governor of Unyanyembe till the aff*air blows 
over. If the rich Banian English subjects be compelled to 
refund, this alone will deter them from again plundering 
the servants of a Government which goes to great expense 
for their protection. 

I will now proceed to narrate, in as few words as possi- 
ble, how I have been baffled by the Banian slaves sent by 
Ludha, instead of men. They agreed to go to LTjiji, and 
having there ascertained where I was to be found, were to 
follow me as boatmen, carriers, woodmen, or in every capa- 



CURE FOR ULCERS. 561 

city required, without reference to tlie customs of other 
expeditions. Each, on being engaged, received an advance 
of $30, and a promise of $5 a month afterwards. This 
was double (to Zanzibar) freemen's pay. They had mucli 
sickness near the coast, and live died of cholera. While 
under Shereef and Awathe they cannot be blamed for fol- 
lowing their worthless leaders ; these leaders remained at 
Ujiji, and Shereef 's three slaves and his women did the 
same. After two months' delay there, seven Banian slaves 
came along with the men returning past Barabarre, as 
mentioned above. The}^ came on the 4th of February, 
1871, having left Zanzibar in October, 1869. I had been 
laid up at Bambarre, by irritable eating ulcers on botli 
feet, which j)revented me from setting a foot on the ground 
from August, 1870, to the end of the year. A piece of 
malachite, rubbed down with water on a stone, was the only 
remedy that had any effect ; I had no medicine; some in 
a box had been unaccountably detained by the Governor of 
Unyan^'embe since 1868, though I sent for it twice, and de- 
livered calico to prepay the carriers. I have been unchari- 
table enough to suspect that the worthy man wishes to fall 
heir to my two guns in the same box. Shereef sent by the 
slaves a few coarse beads, evidently exchanged for my 
beautiful and dear ones, a little calico, and, in great mercy, 
some of my coff'ee and sugar. The slaves came without 
loads, except my tent, which was so full of holes that it 
looked as if riddled with small shot. I never used it once. 
They had been sixteen months on the way from Zanzibar, 
instead of three, and now, like their head men, refused to 
go any further. They swore so positively that the Consul 
had told them to force me back, and on no account to go 
forward, that I actually looked again at their engagement, 
to be sure my eyes had not deceived me. Fear alone made 
them consent to go, but had I not been aided by Muhamed 
Bogharib, they would have gained their point by sheer 
brazen-faced falsehood. I might then have gone back and 
deposed Shereef and Awathe, but this would have required 



562 AN AFRICAN CEREMONY. 

five or six months, and in that time, or perhaps less time, 
at least, I had good reason to hope that the exploration 
would be finished, and my return would be up Albert Lake 
and Tanganyika, instead of the dreary part of Manycma 
and Guba, which I knew already perfectly'. The desire to 
finish the geograpical part of my work was, and is, most 
intense every time my family comes into my mind. I also 
hoped that, as usual, ere long I should gain influence over 
my attendants, but I never had experience with Banian 
Moslem slaves before, who had imbibed little of the Mo- 
hammedan religion but its fulsome pride, and whose previ- 
ous emploj^ment had been browbeating Arab debtors, some- 
what like the lowest class of our sheriff officers. 

As we went across the second great bend of the Lualaba, 
they showed themselves to be all accomplished cowards, in 
constant dread of being killed and eaten by the Manj-ema. 
Failing to induce me to spend all the goods and return, 
they refused to go be3^ond a point far down the Lualaba, 
where I was almost in si^ht of the end towards which I 
strained. They now tried to stop further progress by 
falsehood, and they found at the camp of Ujijian and main- 
land Arabs, a number of willing helpers to propagate the 
slander "that I wanted neither ivory nor slaves, but a 
canoe, to kill ManA^ema." Can it be wondered at that 
people who had never seen strangers before, or even heard 
of white men, believed them ? By this slander, and the 
ceremony of mixing blood with the head men, the main- 
land and Ujijian Arabs secured nine canoes, while I could 
not purchase one. But four daj's below this part narrows 
occur, in which the might}'' river is compressed by rocks, 
which jut in, not opposite to each other, but alternately; 
and the water rushing round the promontories, forms ter- 
rible whirlpools, which overturned one of the canoes, and 
so terrified the whole party that by deceit preceded me, 
that they returned without ever thinking of dragging the 
canoes past the difficulty. This I should have done to gain 
the confluence of the Lomame, some fifty miles below, and 



THE EXPEDITION RETURNS. 563 

thence ascend tlirougk Lake Lincoln to the tincient foun- 
tains beyond the copper mines of Katauga, and this would 
nearly finish my geographical work. But it was so proba- 
ble that the dyke which forms the narrows would be pro- 
longed across the countrj'- into Lomame, that I resolved to 
turn towards this great river considerably above the nar- 
rows, and where the distance between Lualaba and Lomame 
is about eight}' miles. 

A friend, named Dugumbe, was reported to be coming 
from Ujiji, with a caravan of two hundred guns and nine 
nndertraders, with their people. The Banian slaves refused 
duty three times, and the sole reason they alleged for their 
mutiny was fear of going where "there were no Moslems." 
The loss of all their wages was a matter of no importance 
to an}'' one except their masters at Zanzibar. As an Eng- 
lishman, they knew I would not beat or chain them, and 
two of them frankl}^ avowed that all they needed for obedi- 
ence was a free man to thrash them. The slave traders all 
sympathized with them, for they hated my being present 
to witness their atrocities. The sources of the Nile they 
knew to be a sham; to reveal their slaving was mj'^ true 
object, and all dread being " written against" I, therefore, 
waited three months for Dugumbe, who appeared tp be a 
gentleman, and offered 4000 rui>ees, or £400^ for ten men 
and a canoe on Lomame, and afterwards all the goods I 
believed I had at Ujiji, to 43nable me to finish what I had to 
do without the Banian slaves. His first words to me were, 
*' Why, 3'our own slaves are your greatest enemies. I hear 
everywhere how the}'' have baffled you." He agreed to my 
proposition, but required a few clays to consult his asso- 
ciates. 

Two days afterwards, or on the IStli of June, a massacre 
was perpetrated which filled me with such intolerable loath- 
ing that I resolved to yield to the Banian slaves, return to 
Ujiji, get men from the coast, and try to finish the rest of 
my work b}' going outside the area of Ujijian bloodshed, 
instead of vainly trying from its interior outwards. 



5G4 A trader's massacre. 

DiTgumbe's people built their huts on the riglit bank of 
the Lualaba, at a market place called Xyanwe. On heaiini^ 
that the head slave of a trader at Ujiji had, in order to get 
canoes cheap, mixed blood with the head men of the 
Bagenya on the left bank, they were disgusted with his 
assurance, and resolved to punish him and make an impres- 
sion in the country in favor of their own greatness, by an 
assault on the market people, nnd on all the Bagenya who 
had dared to make friendship with anybody but them- 
selves. Tagamolo, the principal undertrader of Dugumbe's 
party, was the perpetrator. The market was attended 
every fourth day by between two and three thousand 
peo[)le. It Avas held on a long slope of land which, down at 
the river, ended in a creek capable of containing fifty and 
sixty large canoes. The majority of the market people 
were women, many of them very prett\'. 'J'he people west 
of the river brought lish, salt, pepper, oil, grass cloth, iron, 
fowls, goats, sheep, pigs, in great numbers, to exchange 
with those east of the river, for cassava, grain, potatoes, 
and other farinaceous products. They have a strong sense 
of natural justice, and all unite in forcing each other to 
fair dealing. At first my presence made them all afraid, 
but wishing to gain their confidence, which m}"^ enemies 
tried to undermine or prevent, I went among them fre- 
tpiently, and when they saw no harm in me, became very 
gracious; the bargaining was the finest acting I ever saw. 
I understood but few of the words that flew off the glib 
tongues of the women, but their gestures spoke plainl3\ I 
took sketches of the fifteen varieties of fish brought in, to 
compare them Avith those of the Nile, further down, and all 
were eager to tell me their names. But on the date re- 
fvjrred to, I had left the market only a minute or two, when 
three men, whom I had seen with guns, and felt inclined to 
rei)rove them for bringing them into the market place, l)ut 
had refrained b}' attributing it to ignorance in new comer??, 
began to fire into the dense crowd around them. Another 
party, down at the canoes, rained their balls on the panic- 



VILLAGES iN FLAMES. 565 

struck mnltitude that rushed into these vessels. All threw 
away their goods, the men forgot their paddles, the canoes 
'were jammed in the creek and could not be got out fast 
enough ; so, man}' men and women sprang into the water. 
The women of the left bank arc expert divers for oysters, 
and a long line of heads showed a crowd striking out for 
an island a mile off; to gain it they had to turn the left 
shoulder against a current of between a mile and a half to 
two miles an hour. Had they gone diagonally with the 
current, though that would have been three miles, many 
would have gained the shore. It was horrible to see one 
head after another disappear, some calmly, others throwing 
their arms high up towards the Great Father of all, and 
going down. Some of the men, who got canoes out of the 
crowd, paddled quick, with hands and arms, to help their 
friends ; three took people in till they all sank together. 
One man had clearly' lost his head, for he paddled a canoe, 
which would have held fifty peo[)le, straight up stream, no- 
where. The Arabs estimated the loss at between four and 
five hundred souls. Dugumbe sent out some of his men in 
one of thirt}' canoes which the owners in their fright could 
not extricate, to save the sinking. One lady refused to be 
taken on board, because she thought she was to be made a 
slave ; but he rescued twenty-one, and of his own accord 
sent them home next day. Many escaped and came to me, 
and were restored to their friends. When the firing began 
on the terror-stricken crowd at the canoes, Tagamolo's 
band began their assault on the people on the west of the 
river, and continued the fire all da}'. I counted seventeen 
villages in flames, and next da}^ six. Dugumbe's power 
over the underlings is limited, but he ordered them to cease 
shooting. Those in the market were so reckless, the}^ shot 
two of their own number. Tagamolo's crew came back 
next day, in canoes, shouting and firing off their guns as 
if believing that they were wortiiy of renown. 

Next day about twent}^ head men fled from the west 
bank and came to my house. There was no occasion now 



566 DYING UPON one's FEET. 

to tell them that the English harl no desire for human 
hlood. They begged hard that I should go over with them, 
and settle with them, and arrange where the new dwellings 
of each should be. I was so ashamed of the bloody Mos- 
lem company in which I found myself, that I was unable 
to look at the Manyema. I confessed my grief and shame, 
and was entreated, if I must go, not to leave them now. 
Dagumbe spoke kindly to them, and would protect them 
as well as he could against his own people ; but when I 
went to Tagamolo, to ask back the wives and daughters of 
some of the head men, he always ran off and hid himself. 

This massacre was the most terrible scene I ever saw. I 
cannot describe my feelings, and am thankful that I did 
not give way to them, but by Dugumbe's advice, avoided a 
bloody feud with men who, for the time, seemed turned 
into demons. The whole transaction was the more deplora- 
ble, inasmuch as we have always heard from the Man^'ema, 
that though the men of the districts may be engaged in 
actual hostilities, the women pass from one market place to 
another with their wares, and were never known to be 
molested. The change has come only with these afien blood- 
hounds, and all the bloodshed has taken place in order that 
captives might be seized where it could be done without 
danger, and in order that the slaving privileges of a petty 
Sultan should produce abundant fruit. 

Heartsore and greatl}'^ depressed in spirits by the many 
instances of " man's inhumanity to man," I had unwillingly 
seen, I commenced the long, weary tramp to Ujiji, with the 
blazing sun right overhead. The mind acted on the body, 
and it is no overstatement to say that almost every step of 
between four and five hundred miles was in pain. I felt as 
if d.ying on my feet, and I came very near to death in a 
more summarj^ way. It is within the area of bloodshed that 
danger alone occurs. I could not induce my Moslem slaves 
to venture outside that area or sphere. They knew better 
than I did : " Was Mohammed not the greatest of all, and 
their prophet ? " 



AN IVORY SPECULATION. 5C7 

About midway back to Bambarre we came to villages 
wliere I had formerly seen the 3'oung men compelled to 
carry a trader's ivory. When I came on the scene, the 
young men had laid down the tusks and said, "Now wo 
have helped 3'ou so far without pay, let the men of other 
villages do as much." "No, no! take up the ivor}-;" and 
take it up the}^ did, only to go a little way and cast it into 
the dense vegetation on each side of the path we after- 
wards knew so well. "When the trader reached his next 
stage, he sent back his men to demaud the " stolen " ivory, 
and when the elders denied the theft they were fired upon, 
and five were killed, eleven women and children captured, 
and also twenty-five goats. The remaining elders then 
talked the matter over, and the young men pointed out 
the ivory, and carried it tvventy-two miles after the trader. 
He chose to say that three of the tusks were missing, and 
carried away all the souls and goats he had captured. 
The}" now turned to the only resource the}' knew, and when 
Dugumbe passed, waylaid and killed one of his people. 
On our return, we passed another camp of Ujijian traders, 
and they begged me to allow their men to join my party. 
These included seventeen men of Manyema, who had volun- 
teered to carry ivory t-o Ujiji and goods back again. These 
were the very first of the Manyema who had, in modern 
times, gone fifty miles from their birthplaces. As all the 
Arabs had been enjoined by Sayed Majid, the late Sultan, 
to show me all the kindness in their power, I could not de- 
cline their request. My party was increased to eighty, an<l 
a long line of men bearing elephants' tusks gave us all the 
appearance of traders. The only cloth I had left some 
months before consisted of two red blaidvcts, whicli were 
converted into a glaring dress, unbecoming enough, but 
there were no Europeans to see it. The maltreated men, 
now burning for revenge, remembered the dress, and very 
naturally tried to kill the man who had murdered their 
relations. They would hold no parley. AVc had to pass 
through five hours of forciit, with vegetation so dense, that 



5G8 A DANQEROUS PASS. 

b}^ stooping clown and peering towards the snn, we could 
at times only see a shadow moving, and a slight rustic in 
the rank vegetation was a spear thrown from the shadow 
of an infuriated man. Our people in front peered into 
over}' little opening in the dense thicket before the}' would 
venture past it ; this detained the rear, and two persons 
near me were slain. A large spear hinged past, close be- 
Lhid ; another missed me by about a foot in front. Coming 
to a part of the forest of about a hundred yards cleared 
for cultivation, I observed that fire had been applied to one 
of the gigantic trees, made still higher by growing on an 
ant-hill, twenty or more feet high. Hearing the crack that 
told the fire had eaten through, I felt that there was no 
danger, it looked so far away, till it appeared coming right 
down toward me. I ran a few paces back, and it came to 
the ground only one j^ard off, broke in several lengths, and 
covered me with a cloud of dust. M3' attendants ran back, 
exclaiming: "Peace! peace! you will finish 3'our work in 
spite of all these people, and in spite of everything ! " I, 
too, took it as an omen of good, that I had three narrow 
escapes from death in one day. 

The Man3-ema are expert in throwing the spear, and as I 
had a glance of him whose spear missed by less than an 
inch behind, and he was not ten jards off, I was savetl 
clearly by the good hand of the Almight}' Preserver of 
men. I can saj' this devoutly now, but in running the ter- 
rible gauntlet for five wearj^ hours among furies, all eager 
to signalize themselves b}' slaying one they sincerely' be- 
lieved to have been guilt}' of a horrid outrage, no elevated 
sentiments entered the mind. The excitement gave way to 
overpowering weariness, and I felt, as I suppose soldiers 
do on the field of battle — not courageous, but perfectly in- 
different whether I were killed or not. 

On coming to the cleared plantation belonging to the 
next group of villages, all lay down to rest, and I soon saw 
their head man walking unarmed, in a stately manner, to- 
ward us. He had heard the vain firinsir of our men into the 



1 



ANOTHER LETTER. 669 

dense vegetation, and came to inquire tlie cause. Wlien lie 
liad consulted his elders, he sent an offer to me in the even- 
ing, to collect all his people, and if I lent him ray people 
wlio had guns, he would bring me ten goats instead of 
three milch cows I had lost. I again explained the mistake 
nnder which his next neighbors labored, and as he under- 
stood the whole case, he was ready to admit that mj' join- 
ing in his ancient feud would only make matters worse. 
Indeed, my old Highland blood had been roused by the 
wrongs which his foes had suffered, and all through I could 
not help sympathizing with them, though I was the especial 
object of their revenge. I have, etc., 

David Livingstone, 
Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 

Dr, Living-tone to Earl Granville. 

Ujiji, Dec. ISth, 1871. 

My Lord: — The dispatch of Lord Clarendon, dated 31st 
of May, 1870, came to this place on the 13th ult., and its 
very kindlj' tone and sympathy afforded me a world of en- 
couragement. Your Lordship will excuse me in saying 
that with my gratitude there mingled sincere sorrow that 
the personal friend who signed it was no more. 

In the kind wish expressed for my return home I can 
join most cordially ; indeed, 1 am seized with a sore long- 
ing every time my family, now growing np, comes into my 
mind ; but if I explain, you will not deem me unreasonable 
in making one more effort to make a feasible finish of my 
work. I know about six hundred miles of the long water- 
shed of South Central Africa pretty fairly. From this the 
majority of the vast number of the springs of the Nile do 
unquestionably arise and form great mains of drainage in 
tl»e Great Nile Yalley, which begins in latitude ten to 
twelve degrees south. But in the seventh hundred miles 
four threat fountains are reported, which are different from 
all I have seen in rising from the base of an earthen mound 
48'» 



570 REMARKABLE FOUNTAINS. 

as full grown rushing springs, ea,cli of which at no great 
distance off becomes a hirge river. I have heard ol this 
remarkable mound two hundred miles distant on the south- 
west. Ao'ain three hundred miles distant on the south 
Mr. Oswell and I heard that the Upper Zambesi or Landjai 
rose at (this) one point. Then intelligent natives men- 
tioned it one hundred and eighty miles off on the east, and 
again one hundred and fifty from it on the northeast, and 
also in the Manyema country one hundred miles norlh- 
nortlieast. Intelligent Arabs who have visited the, mound 
and fountains spoke of them as a subject of wonder, and 
confirmed all my previous information. I cannot doubt 
of their existence, and I have even given names b}^ anti- 
cipation to the fountains whose rivers I know. 

But on the next point, which if correct, gives these foun- 
tains an historic interest, I speak with great diffidence, and 
would fain apologize for mentioning, on the dim recollec- 
tions of boyhood, and without a single book of reference, 
to hazard the conjecture that these fountains rising to- 
gether, and flowing two north into the Nile, and two south 
to Inner Ethiopia, are probably the sources of the Nile 
mentioned to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in 
the city of Sais in Egypt. The idea imparted b}" the words 
of the ancient historian was that the waters of the sources 
welled np in unfathomable fountains and then parted, half 
to Eg3q)t and the other half to Inner Ethiopia. 

The ancient traveller or trader who first brought the 
report down to Egypt would scarcely be so precise as to 
explain of waters that seem to issue from nearly one spot 
flowed on to opposite slopes of the watershed. The north- 
east fountain, Bartle Frere's, flows as the large river Ln- 
fira into Komolondo, one of the four large lakes in Webb's 
Lualaba. The centre line of drainage then, that on the 
northwest of the mound, Young's (Sir Paraffin) fountain 
flows through Lake Lincoln, and as the River Lomame 
joins Webb's Lualaba before the fourth large lake is formed, 
of which the outflow is said to be into Fctherick's branch, 



SWINDLED BY SLAVES. 57 1 

two certainly flow north, and two as certainly flow south ; 
for Palmerstone's fountain on the southwest is the source 
of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, and Os well's fountain 
on the soutiieast, is the Kafue, which far down joins the 
same river in " Inner Ethiopia." I advance the conjecturo 
merely for what it is worth, and not dogmatically-. Tho 
gentlemen who stay at liome at ease may smile at my as- 
surance in recalling- the memories of boyhood in Central 
Africa; but let these be the sources of the ancients or/ not, 
it seems desirable to rediscover them, so that no one may 
come afterwards and cut me out by a fresh batch of sources, 

I am very unwilling to attach blame to an}^ one, and I 
can ou\y ascribe it to ignorance at Zanzibar of our Govern- 
ment being stringently opposed to its oflficers cmployin'/ 
slave-labor, that some five or six hundred pounds' worlJi 
of my goods were entrusted to Ludha, a concealed slave- 
trader, who again placed the supplies in the hands of slaves 
under the two dishonest freemen, who, as 1 have described 
in my letter of the 14th ult., caused me a loss of time and 
ultimately of all the goods. 

Again, £503 of goods — this being half of £1000 kindly 
sent by Her Majesty's Government to my aid — was, by 
some strange hallucination, handed over to Ludha again, 
and he again committed them to slaves and two freemen. 
All la}- feasting on m}' stores at Bagomoj'O, on the mainland 
opposite Zanzibar, from the latter part of October, 18T0, 
to the latter part of February, 18T1, and no one looked 
near them. They came on to Un3'anyembe, a point from 
twenty days to a month cast of this, and \ny there till a 
war, which broke out in Jul}'', gave them a good excuse to 
continue there still. Ludha is a very polite and rich Banian, 
but in this second bill he made a shameless overcharge of 
$364. All the Banians and Arabs hate to see me in tho 
slave-mart and dread exposure. Here and in Manyema I 
liiLve got into the good graces of all the Arabs of position. 
But the Banian hatred of our interference in the slave- 
trade manifests itself in the low cunning of imbruing thi» 



5Y2 APPEARANCE OF STANLEY. 

minds of the slaves sent with the idea that the}' are 
not to follow me, but, in accordance with some fabulous 
letter force me back. This they have propagated all through 
the countr}^, and reall}' seem to believe it. M)' letters to 
the coast having been so often destroyed, I had relinquished 
hope of ever obtaining help from Zanzibar, and proposed 
when I became stronger to w^ork my way down to Mtcz:i 
or Baker for help and men. A vague rumor reached Ujiji 
in the besrinninij of last month that an Ensilishman had come 
to Unyanyembe with boats, horses, men and goods in 
abundance. It was in vain to conjecture who this couhl 
be ; and mj'' eager inquiries were met by answers so con- 
tradictor}' that I began to doubt if any stranger had come 
at all. But one day, I cannot say which, for I was three 
weeks too fast in my reckoning, my man Susicame dashing 
up in great excitement, and gasped out, "An Englishman 
coming; see him!" and ott" he ran to meet him. Tlic 
American flas: at the head of the caravan told me the na- 
tionalitj' of the stranger. It was Henry M. Stanle}', the 
travelling correspondent of the New York Herald, sent by 
the son of the editor, James Gordon Bennett, Jr , at an 
expense of £4000 to obtain correct information about mo 
if living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The kind- 
ness was extreme, and made my whole frame thrill with 
excitement and gratitude. 

I had been left nearly destitute b}'' the moral idiot She- 
reef selling off my goods for slaves and ivory for himself. 
My condition w^as sufficiently forlorn, for I had but a very 
few articles for barter left of what 1 had taken the pre- 
caution to leave here, in case of exti*eme need. The strange 
news Mr. Stanley had to tell to one for years out of com- 
munication with the world was quite reviving. Appetite 
returned, and in a week 1 began to feel strong. Having 
men and sfoods, and information that search for an outlet 
of the Tanganj'ika was desired by Sir Roderick Murchi- 
Eon, we went for a month^s cruise down to its northern end. 

This was a pleasure trip compared to the weary tramp- 



A FURTHER TRIP PROPOSED. 673 

ing of all the rest of my work ; Lut an outflow we did not 
find. 

On returning, on the 13th current, Mr. Stanlej* received 
a letter from the American consul at Zanzibar of 11th June 
last, and Aden telegrams of European news up to the 29th 
April. My mail was dated November, 1870, and would not 
liave left the slaves had not Mr. Stanley accidentally seen 
it and seized it for me. AVhat was done 1)}' the American 
consul could have been done b}- the English consul, but 
for the unaccountable propensity to employ slave-traders 
and slaves. 

Seeing no hope of even the third £500, or last half of 
the government £1000, being placed in other hands but 
those of the polite Ludha, I liave taken the libertj^ of re- 
solving to return a full month eastward to secure tlie dregs 
of my ^'oods from the slaves there, and accept those that 
Mr. Stanley offers, hire freemen at Unyanyeml)e v/ith them, 
and then return back to the watershed to finish the little 
I have to do. 

In going and returning from Un3'an3'eml)c I shall lose 
three or four months. The ancient fountains will require 
eight months more ; but in one year from this time, wilh 
ordinary health, the geographical work will be done. 

I am presuming that your Lordship will say : "If worth 
doing at all, it is worth doing well." All my friends will 
wish me to make a complete work of the sources of the 
ancient river. In that wish, in spite of the strong desire 
to go home, I join, believing that it is better to do so now 
than afterwards in vain. 

Trusting that your Lordship will kindly make allow- 
ances for what, to some who do not know how hard I have 
toiled to accomplish six-sevenths of the work' may appear 
obstinacy, I have, etc. 

Davtd Livingstone, 
Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 

P. S. — The mortality by small pox in this region is so 



574 INTRODUCING VACCINATION. 

enormous that I ventured to apply to Government for a 
supply of vaccine virus to meet me on my return — by one 
portion being sent in the Governor's mail-bag to the Cape, 
and another portion by way of Bombay — all convenient 
haste being enjoined. Many intelligent Arabs have ex- 
l)ressed to me their willingness to use it. If I remember 
lightlv, Ladv Mary W. Montao^u brouoht the knowledge 
of innoculation from Turkev. This race, thouoh biofoted, 
perhaps more than the Turks, may receive the superior 
remedy; and, if they do, a great boon will be conferred, 
for very many thousands perish annually- aud know no 
preventive. The reason for my troubling you is, I do not 
know anj' of the conductors of vaccination in London, <ind 
Professor Christison, of Edinburgh, who formerly put up 
the virus in capillary tubes, maj' not now be alive. The 
('apillar3' tubes are the onl}' means of preserving the sub- 
stance fresh in this climate I have seen, and if jour Lord- 
ship will kindly submit \wy request to vaccinators to send 
these tubes charsred with matter I shall be able at least to 

make an effort to benefit this great population. 

D. L 

Dr. Livingstone to Earl Granville. 

Unyanyembe, near the Kazeh of Spekc, 

Feb. 20//*., 1872. 

My Lord : — My letters to and from the coast have been 
so fiequently destroyed by those whose interest and cu[)i« 
dity lead them to hate correspondence as likel}' to expose 
their slaving, that I had nearh' lost all heart to write, but 
being assured that this packet will be taken safe home b}' 
IMr. Stanle\', I add a fifth letter to four alread}' penned, the 
pleasure of believing that this will really' come into your 
Lordship's hands overpowering the consciousness of having 
been much too prolix. 

The subject to which I beg to draw your attention is the 
l)!irt which the Banians of Zanzibar, who are protected 
British subjects, play in carrying on the slave-trade in 



THE BANIAN SLAVE TRADE. 575 

Central Africa, especially in Manyema, the country west 
of Ujiji; together with a proposition which I have very 
much at heart — the possibility of encouraging the native 
Christians of English settlements on the West Coast of 
Africa, to remove by voluntary emigration to a healthy 
spot on this side the Continent. 

The Banian British subjects have been long and arc now 
the chief propagators of the Zanzibar sLive-trade ; their 
monc}', and often their muskets, gunpowder, balls, flints, 
beads, brass wire and calico are annually advanced to the 
Arabs at enormous interest, for the murderous work of 
slaving, of the nature of which every Banian is fully aware. 
Having mixed much with the Arabs in the interior, I soon 
learned the whole system that is called "butchec," or Ba- 
nian trading is simply marauding and murdering by the 
Arabs at the instigation and by the aid of our Indian fel- 
fow-subjects. The cunning Indians secure nearly all the 
profits of the caravans they send inland, and ver}' adroitly 
let the odium of slaving rest on their Arab agents. As a 
rule, very few Arabs could proceed on a trading expedition 
unless supplied by the Banians with arms, ammunition and 
goods. Slaves are not bought in the countries to which 
the Banian agents proceed — indeed it is a mistake to call 
the system of TJjiji slave-** trade " at all; the captives aro 
not traded for, but murdered for, and the gangs that arc 
draofSfed coastwards to enrich the Banians are usually not 
slaves, but captive free people. A Sultan anxious to do 
justly rather than pocket head-money wouhl proclaim Iheni 
all free as soon as the}^ reached his territory. 

Let me give an instance or two to illustrate the trade of 
our Indian fellow-subjects. My friend Muhamed Bogharih 
sent a large party of his people far down the great river 
Lualaba to trade for ivory about the middle of 1871. Ilo 
is one of the best of the traders, a native of Zanzibar, an(\ 
not one of the mainlanders, who are lower types of man. 
The best men have, however, often the worst attendants. 
This party was headed by one Ilassani, ar.d he, with two 



676 THE VALUE OF SLAVES IN BRACELETS. 

other head men, advanced to the people of Nyangwc twcnt}*- 
five copper bracelets to be paid for in ivory on their return. 
The rings were Avortli about live shillings at TJjiji, and it 
being well known that the N3ang\ve people had no ivor^', 
the advance has a mere trap ; for, on returning and de- 
manding payment in ivory in vain, tiiey began an assault 
■which continued for three days. All the villages of a largo 
district were robbed, some burned, many men killed, and 
about one hundVed and fifty captives secured. 

On going subsequently into southern Manyema I met 
the poorest of the above mentioned head men, who had 
only been able to advance five of the twenty-five bracelets, 
and he told me that he had bought ten tusks with part of 
the captives; and having received information at the vil- 
lage where I found him about two more tusks, he was 
■waiting for eight other captives from Muhamed's camp to 
purchase them. I had now got into terms of friendship 
with all the respectable traders of that quarter, and they 
gave information "with unrestrained freedom; and all I 
state may be relied on. On asking Muhamed himself, after- 
wards, near Ujiji, the proper name of Muhamed Nassur, 
the Indian wlio conspired with Shereef to interfere liis own 
trade speculation between Dr. Kirk and me, and defray all 
his expenses out of my goods, he promptly replied, "This 
Muhamed Nassur is the man from whom 1 borrowed all 
the money and goods for this journey." 

I will not refer to the horrid and senseless massacre 
which I unwillingly witnessed at Nyangwe, in which the 
Arabs themselves computed the loss of life at between three 
hundred and four hundred souls. It pained me sorel3' to 
let the mind dwell long enough on it to pen the short ac- 
count I gave, but I mention it again to point out that the 
chief perpetrator, Tagamolo, received all his guns and 
gunpowder from Ludiia Damji, the richest Banian and 
chief slave-trader of Zanzil^ar. He has had the cunning 
to conceal his actual participation in slaving, but there is 
not an Arab in the country who would hesitate a moment 



THE MOTIVE FOR COMPLAINING. 677 

to point out that, but for the mone\^ of Lutlha Darnji and 
other Banians who borrow from him, slaving, especially in 
these more distant countries, would instantly cease. It is 
not to be overlooked that most other trades as well as slav- 
ing are carried on b3' Banians ; the Custom House and re- 
venue are entirely in their hands ; the so-called governors 
are their trade agents ; Syde bin Salem Buraschid, the 
thievish governor here, is merely a trade agent of Ludha, 
and honesty having been no part of his qualifications for 
the office, the most shameless transactions of other Banian 
agents are smoothed over b}^ him. A common way he has 
of concealing crimes is to place delinquents in villages ad- 
jacent to this, and when they are inquired for by the Sul- 
tan he reports that they are sick. "It was no secret that 
all the Banians looked with disfavor on my explorations 
and disclosures as likely to injure one great source of 
their wealth. Knowing this, it almost took away my breath 
when I heard that the great but covert slave-trader Ludha 
Damji had been requested to forward supplies and men to 
me. This and similar applications must have appeared to 
Ludha so ludicrous that he probably answered with bis 
tongue in his cheek. His help was all faithfullj' directed 
towards securing my failure. I am extremely unwilling to 
appear as if making a wail on my own account, or as if 
tr3ing to excite commiseration. I am greatly more elated 
by the unexpected kindness of unknown friends and the 
sympathy and the liberality of Her Majesty's Government 
than cast down by losses and obstacles. But I have a pur- 
pose in view in mentioning mishaps. 

Before leaving Zanzibar, in 18GG, I paid for and dispatched 
a stock of goods to be placed in depot at Ujiji ; the Ban- 
yam wezi porters, or pagazi, as usual brought them honestly 
to this governor or Banian agent, the same who plundered 
Burton and Speke pretty freely ; and he placed my goods 
in charge of his own slave Musa bin Saloom, who, about 
midway between this and Ujiji, stopped the caravan ten 
days, while he plundered as much as he chose, and went 
49 



578 TIME AND MONEY LOST. 

off to bny ivory for his owner Karague. Saloom das been 
kept out of the way ever since ; the dregs of the stores 
left by this slave are the only supplies I have received 
since 1866. Another stocli of goods was despatched from 
Zanzibar in 1868, but the whole was devoured at this place, 
and the letters destroyed, so that I should know nothing 
about them. Another large supply, sent through Ludha 
and his slaves in 1869-70, came to Xljiji, and except a few 
pounds of Avorthless beads out of seven hundred pounds 
of fine dear beads, all were sold off for slaves and ivory 
by the persons selected by Ludha Damji. I refer to these 
wholesale losses because, though well known to Ludha and 
all the Banians, the statement was made in the House of 
Lords (I suppose on the strength of Ludha's plausible 
fables) that all my wants had been supplied. 

By coming back in a roundabout route of three hundred 
miles from Ujiji I did find, two daj'S ago, a good quantity 
of supplies, the remains of what had been sent off from 
Zanzibar sixteen month aoo. Ludha had been asrain em- 
ployed, and slaves he selected began by loitering at Bago- 
moyo, opposite Zanzibar, for nearl}" four months. A war 
here, which is still going on, gave them a good excuse for 
going no further. The head men were thieves, and had I 
not returned and seized what remained, I should again 
have lost all. All the Banian slaves who have been sent 
by Ludha and other Banians, are full of the idea that they 
were not to follow, but force me back. 

I cannot say that I am altogether free from chagrin, in 
view of the worry, thwarting, and bafliing which the 
Banians and their slaves have inflicted. Common traders 
l)rocure supplies of merchandise from the coast, and send 
loads of ivory down by pagazi or carriers we employ, with- 
out an}' loss. But the Banians and their agents are not 
their enemies. I have lost more than two 3'ears in time, 
have been burdened with eighteen hundred miles of tramp- 
ing, and how much waste of monej' I cannot say, through 
ni}' affairs having been committed to Banians and slaves, 



TENACITY OF PURPOSE. 579 

who arc not men. I have adhered, in spite of losses, with 
a sort of John Bullish tenacity to ray task, and while bear- 
ing misfortune in- as manly a way as possible, it strikes me 
that it is well that I have been brought face to face with 
the Banian S3'stem that inflicts enormous evils on Central 
Africa. Gentlemen in India, Avho see only the wealtli 
brought to Bomba}^ and Cutch, and know that the religion 
of the Banians docs not allow them to harm a fl}', very 
naturally conclude that all the Cutchees may safely bo 
entrusted with the possession of slaves. But I have been 
forced to sec that those who shrink from killing: a flea or 
musquito, are virtually the worst cannibals in all Africa. 
The Man^'cma cannibals, among whom I spent nearly two 
years, arc innocents compared with our protected Banian 
fellow subjects. By their Arab agents, they compass the 
destruction of more human lives in one 3'ear than the 
Manyema do for their flesh pots in ten ; and could the 
Indian gentlemen, who oppose the anti-slave-trade policy 
of the Foreign Office, but witness the horrid deeds done by 
the Banian agents, they would be the foremost in decreeing 
that every Cutcliee found guilty of direct or indirect 
slaving should forthwith be shipped back to India, if not 
to the Andaman islands. 

The Banians, having complete possession of the Custom 
House and revenue of Zanzibar, enjoy ample opportunity 
to aid and conceal the slave trade and all fraudulent trans- 
actions committed by their agents. It would be good 
l)()licy to recommend the Sultan, as he cannot trust his 
Moslem subjects, to place his income from all sources in 
the hands of an English or American merchant, of known 
reputation and nprightness. lie would be a check on the 
slave trade, a benefit to the Sultan, and an aid to lawful 
commerce. 

But by far the most beneficial measure that could be in- 
troduced into Eastern Africa would be the moral clement, 
which has worked so beneficially in suppressing the slave 
trade around all the English settlements of the west coast. 



530 RELIGION AND MORALITY. 

The Banians seem to have no religion worthy of tlie name, 
and among Mohammedans, religion and raoralit}' are com- 
pletely disjoined. Different opinions have been expressed 
as to the success of Christian missionaries, and gentlemen 
Avho judge by tlie riff-raff that follow Indian camps, speak 
very unfavorably, from an impression that the drunkards 
Avho profess to be of " Master's caste and drink brand}'," 
are average specimens of Christian converts. But the 
comprehensive report of Colonel Ord, presented to Parlia- 
ment_^(1865), contains no such mistake. He states that 
while the presence of the squadron has had some share iii 
suppressing the slave trade, the result is due mainly to the 
existence of the settlements. This is supported by the 
fact that, even in those least visited by men-of-war, it has 
been as effectually suppressed as in those which have been 
their most constant resort. The moral element, which has 
proved beneficial all round the settlements, is mainly due 
to the teaching of missionaries. I would carefully avoid 
anvthin^ like boastinsj over the benevolent efforts of our 
countr^'men, but here their good influences are totally un- 
known. No attempt has ever been made by the Moham- 
medans in East Africa to propagate their faith, and their 
trade intercourse lias only made the natives more avari- 
cious than themselves. The fines levied on all traders arc 
nearly prohibitive, and nothing is given in return. Mr. 
Stanlc}' was mulcted of sixteen hundred 3ards of superior 
calico between the sea and Ujiji, and we made a detour of 
three hundred miles to avoid similar spoliation among 
people accustomed to Arabs. It has been said that Mos- 
lems would be better missionaries than Christians, because 
they would allow polj'gam^' ; but nowhere have Christians 
been loaded with the contempt the Arabs have to endure, 
in addition to being plundered. To " honga " originally 
meant to make friends. It does so now in all the more 
central countries, and presents are exchanged at the cere- 
mony, the natives usuall}"^ giving the largest amount; but 
on routes much frequented by Arabs, it iias come to moau 



PROPOSED COLONIZATION, 581 

not **' black mail," but forced contributions impudently clc- 
mr. ndcd, and neither service nor food returned. 

If tlic native Christians of one or more of the English 
settlements on the West Coast, which have fully acconi- 
l)lished t!ie objects of their establishment, in suppiessing 
tlie slave trade, could be induced by voluntary emigration, 
to remove to some healthy spot on the East Coast, they 
would in time frown down the duplicity which prevails so 
much in all classes that no slave treaty can ]>ind them. 
Slaves purchase their freedom in Cuba, and return to un- 
healthy Lagos to settle as petty traders. Men of the same 
enterprising class, who have been imbued Avith the moral 
atmosphere of our settlements, would be of incalculable 
value in developing lawful commerce. Mombas is ours 
already; we left it, but never ceded it. The mainland op- 
posite Zanzibar is much more health}' than the island, and 
the Sultan gives as much land as can be cultivated to any 
one who asks. No native right is interfered with by the 
gift. All that would be required would be an able, influen- 
tial man to begin and lead the movement ; the oflTicials 
already in oifice could have passages in men-of-war. The 
only additional cost to what is at present incurred would 
be part of the passage mone}', on loan, and small rations 
and house rent, both of which are very cheap, for half a 
year. It would be well to prevent Europeans, even as mis- 
sionaries, from cnterino: the settlement till it was well 
established. 

Many English in new climates reveal themselves to bo 
born fools, and thou blame some one for having advised 
them, or lay their own excuses to the door of African fever. 
That disease is, in all conscience, bad enough, but medical 
men are fully aware that frequently it is not fever but folly 
that kills. Brandy, black women, and lazy inactivity are 
worse than the climate. A settlement, once fairly estab- 
lished, and reputed safe, will not long lack religious 
teachers, and it will then escape the heavy burden of being 
a scene for martyrdom. 
49* 



532 GRATEFUL TO STANLEY. 

If the Sultan of Zanzibar were relieved from payincr iho 
heavy subsidy to the ruler of Muscat, he would, for the 
relief granted, readily concede all that one or tvvo trans- 
ferred English settlements would require. The English 
name, now respected in all the interior, would be a sort of 
safeguard to petty traders, while gradually su{ planting the 
unscrupulous Banians, who abuse it. And iawl'ul trade 
v>(>uld, by the aid of* English and American merchants, be 
exalted to a position it lias never held since Banians and 
Moslems emigrated to Africa. It is true that Lord Can- 
ning did ordain that the annual subsidy .vhowld be paid by 
Zanzibar to Muscat. But a statesman of his eminence never 
could have contemplated it as an indefinite aid to eager 
slave traders, while non-payment might be used to root out 
the wretched traffic. If, in addition to the relief suggested, 
the Sultan of Zanzibar were guaranteed protection from his 
relations and others in jNIuscat, he would feel it to be his 
interest to observe a treaty to suppress slaving all along 
the coast. 

I am thankful in now reporting myself well supplied with 
stores ample enough to take a feasible finish-up of the geo- 
gra[)hical i)ortion of my mission. This is duo partly to 
the goods I seized two days ago from the slaves, who had 
been feasting on them for the last sixteen months, but 
chiefl}' to a large assortment of the best barter articles pre- 
sented by Henry M. Stanlej^ who, as I have already in- 
formed 3our Lordship, was kindl}^ sent by James Gordon 
Bennett, Jr., of New York, and who bravely persisted, in 
llie teeth of tiie most serious obstacles, till he found me at 
Ujiji, shortly, or one month, after my return from Man- 
yema, ill and destitute. It will readily be believed that I 
feel deeply grateful for this disinterested and nnlooked for 
kindness. The supplies I seized two days ago, after a 
return march of three hundred miles, laid on me by tho 
plaves in charge refusing to accompany Mr, Stanley to 
TJjiji, were part of those sent off in the end of October, 
1870, at the instance of Fler Majestj-'s Government, and 
are virtually the only stores worthy of the name that camr* 



IN GvOOD HEALTH AND SPIRITS. 583 

to liiind, besides those despatched b}' Dr. Seward and my- 
self, ill 1866. And all in consequence of Ludha and 
Banian slaves having unwittingly been emplo^'ed to for- 
ward an expedition opposed to their slaving interests. It 
was, no doubt, amiable in Dr. Kirk to believe the polite 
Banians in asserting that the}- would send stores at once, 
and again that my wants had all been supi)lied; but it wc^uld 
have been better to have drop[)ed the money into Zanzibar 
harbor than to trust it in their hands, because the whole 
population has witnessed the open plunder of English 
l)ropert3', and the delinquents are screened from justice by 
Banian agents. The slaves needed no more than a hint to 
plunder and baffle. Shereef and all the Banian slaves who 
acted in accordance with the views of their masters, are 
now at Ujlji and Unyanyembe, by the connivance of the 
Governor, or rather Banian trade agent, Syde bin Salem 
Buraschid, who, when the wholesale plunder by Shereef be- 
came known, wrote to me that he (the Governor) had no 
hand in it. I never said he had. 

However, though sorely knocked up, ill, and dejected, on 
arriving at Ujiji, I am now completely recovered- in health 
and spirits. I need no more goods, but I draw on Her 
Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar for £500 of the £1000 placed 
at his disposal for me by Her Majesty's Government, in 
order that Mr. Stanley may employ and send otf fifty free 
men, but no slaves, from Zanzibar. I need none but them, 
and have asked Seyed Burghash to give me a good, honest 
head man, with a character that may be inquired into. I 
expect them about the end of June, and after all the delay 
I have endured, feel quite exhilarated at the i)rospcct of 
doing m}^ work. 

Geographers will be interested to know tlie plan 1 pro- 
pose to follow. I shall at present avoid Ujiji, and go 
about southwest from this to Fipa, which is e.Mst of ar.d 
near the south end of Tanganyika; then round the same 
south end, only touching it again at Panibette; thence rc- 
Bumino* the southwest course to cross the Chambeze, and 



684 CAVES OF r.EFUGE. 

l>roeced along the southern shores of Lake Bangweolo, 
■which, being in latitiule 12^ south, the course will be duo 
west, to the ancient fountains of Herodotus. From thcni 
ib is about ten days' north to Katauga, the copper mines 
of "which have been Avorked for ages. The malachite ore is 
described as so abundant, it can be mentioned by the coal 
heaver's phrase, "practically inexhaustible." 

About ten days' northeast of Katauga, very extensive 
underground rock excavations deserve attention, as very 
ancient, the natives ascribing their formation to Deity 
alone. Tlicy arc remarkable for all having water laid on in 
running streams, and the inhabitants of large districts can 
all take refuiio in them in case of invasion. Returnini^ 
from them to Katauga, twelve days' north-northwest, take 
to the southern end of Lake Lincoln, I wish to go down 
through it to the Lomani, and into Webb's Lualaba and 
home. I Vvas mistaken in the information that a Matcrfall 
existed between Tanganyika and Albert Nyanza. Tangan- 
yika is of no interest, except in a YQvy remote degree, in con- 
nection with the sources of the Nile. But wliat if 1 am 
mistaken, too, about the ancient fountain ? Then we shall 
sec. I know the rivers they arc said to form — two nortli 
and two south — and in battling down the central line of 
drainage, the enormous amount of w/}sting caused me at 
times to feel as if running my head against a stone 
wall. It might, after all, be the Congo; and who would 
care to run the risk of being put into a cannibal pot and 
converted into a black man for anything less than the grand 
old Nile? But when I found that Lualaba forsook its 
westing and received through Komolondo, Bartle Frere's 
great river, and that afterwards, further down, it takes in 
Youno-'s a-reat stream throuoh Lake Lincoln, I ventured to 
think I was on the right track. 

Two ffreat rivers arise somewhere in the western end of 
the watershed, and flow north— to Egypt. (?) Two other 
great rivers rise in the same quarter, and flov^ south, as the 
Zambesi or Liambai, and the Kafr.e, into Liner Ethiopia. 
Yet I speak with diffidence, for I have no affinity with an 



WANTS NO COMPANION. 685 

untravelled would-be geographer, who used to swear to the 
fancies ho collected from slaves till he became blue in the 
face. 

I know about six hundred miles of the watershed pretty 
fairly. I turn to the seventh hundred miles with i)lcasure 
and hope. I want no companion now, though discovery 
means hard work. Some can make what the}^ call theoreti- 
cal discoveries by dreaming. I should like to offer a prize 
for an explanation of the correlation of the structure and 
economy of the watershed, with the structure and economy 
of the great lacustrine rivers in the production of the phe- 
nomena of the Nile. The prize cannot be undervalued by 
competitors even who may only have dreamed of what has 
given me very greai trouble, though the}' ma}' have hit on 
the division of labor in drcaminix, i^nd each discovered one 
or two hundred miles. In the actual discover}' so far, I went 
two years and six months without once tasting tea, coffee 
or sugar; and except at Ujiji, have fed on buffaloes, rhino- 
ceros, elephants, hippopotami, and cattle of that sort, and 
have come to believe that English roast beef and pluiu 
pudding must be the real genuine theobroma, the food of 
the gods, and I offer to all successful competitors a 
glorious feast of beefsteaks and stout. No competition 
will be allowed after I have published my own explana- 
tion, on pain of immediate execution, without benefit of 
clergy ! 

I send home my journal, by Mr. Stanley, sealed, to my 
daughter Agnes. It is one of Letts's large folio diaries, 
and is full except a few (five) pages reserved for alti- 
tudes which I cannot at present copy. It contains a 
few private memoranda for my family alone, and I adopt 
this course in order to secure it from risk in my conclu- 
ding trip. 

Trusting that your Lordship will award me your appro- 
bation and sanction to a little longer delay, I have, etc., 

David Ltvingstonk, 
Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 



niSTOIllCAL NOTICES OF DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA 

In the lime of Herodctus, and bng afterward, the ge- 
neral opinion was that Africa did not extend so far south 
as the equatorial line. There existed, however, a traditioc 
that Africa had been circumnavigated by the Pliosniciana 
about six centuries before the Christian era; but, if the 
Bouthcrn promontory of Africa had really been reached, 
it is difficult to conceive how so erroneous an impression 
could have prevailed as to the extent of the continent. It 
is, therefore, most probable that such a voyage had never 
succeeded; and, indeed, the circumstances under which it 
was prosecuted, according to the accounts which have come 
down to us, only add an additional feature of improbability 
to the story. Turning to modern times, we find, at the 
commencement of the fifteenth century, that Europeans 
were only acquainted with that portion of the western 
coast of Africa which extends from the Straits of Gibraltar 
to Cape Nun, — a line of coast not exceeding six hundred 
miles in length. The Portuguese had the honor of extend- 
ing this limited acquaintance with the outline of the African 
continent. Their zeal for discovery in this direction became 
truly a national passion, and the sovereigns and princes of 
Portugal prosecuted this object with singular entluisiasm 
By the year 1471 the Portuguese navigators had advanced 
2^ south of the Lino In 1484, Diego Cam reached 22^ 
south latitude. The next navigator, Bartholomew Diaz, 
was commanded to pursue his course southward until he 
should reach the extremity of Africa; and to him belongs 
the honor of discovering the Cape of Good Hope, the name 
given to it at the time by t'je King of Portugal, though 
Ihaz had named it Cabo Tormentoso, (the Cape of Teni- 
pes«s.) The Cape of Good Hope was at first frequently 
called the Lion of the Sea, and also the Head of Africa 
In 1407,' Vasco de Gama set forth with the intention of 
fef ;hing India by sailing rnund the Cape of Good Uopo 
556 



SKETCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVERY. 537 

Aflci doubling the Capo, he pursued hid course along the 
eastern coast of Africa, and then stretched across the ocean 
to India. The Portuguese had now ascertained the genera) 
outline of Africa and the position of many of the princip;\J 
rivers and headlands. With the eyception of a portion of 
the coast from the Straits of Bab -el Mandcb to Mukdeesha, 
situated in 3" north latitude, tho whole of the coast had 
been traced by the Portuguese, a,nd their zeal and enthu- 
biasm, which had at one period i)eeia treated with ridicule, 
were at length triumphantly rewarded, about fbur years 
before Columbus had achieved Lis great discovery, which, 
with that of Vasco de Gama, amj)ly repaid a century ot 
speculative enterprise. This interesting combination of 
events had a sensible effect upon the general mind of 
Europe. The Portuguese soon formed settlements in 
Africa, and began to acquire a knowledge of the interior 
of the country. They were followed by the French, and 
afterward by the English and the Dutch. 

It is chiefly within the last fifty years that discoveries 
in the interior of Africa have been perseveringly and syrt- 
tematically prosecuted. In 1788, a society was established 
in London with the design of encouraging men of enter- 
prise to explore the African continent. John Ledyard, 
an American, was the first person selected by the African 
Association for this task; and he set out in 1788 with the 
intention of traversing the widest part of the continent 
from east to west, in the supposed latitude of the river 
Niger. Unfortunately, he was seized at Cairo with a 
fever, of which he died. He possessed few f jientific ac- 
quirements; but his vigor and powers of endurance, mental 
and bodily, his indifference to pain, hardship, and fatigue, 
would have rendered him an admirable geographical pio- 
neer. "I have known,'' he said, shortly before leaving 
England for the last time, ^'hunger and nakedness to tho 
utmost extremity of human suffering: I have known what 
it is to have food given as charity to a madman, and have 
at times been obliged to shelter myself under tl'o miseries 



588 -SKETCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVER T. 

of that character to avoid a heavier calamity My dis 
Ireeses have been greater than I have ever owned, or ever 
will own, to any man. Such evils are terrible to bear; but 
they never yet had the power to turn rae from my purpose.' 
Such was the indomitable energy of this man, the first oi 
a long list of victims in the cause of African discovery 
Mr. LucaS; who was despatched by the Association to sup 
ply the place of Ledyard, was 3ompelled to return home 
in consequence of several of the countries through which 
he would have to pass being engaged in hostilities. Id 
1790, Major Houghton, an officer who was acquainted with 
the customs of the Moors and Negroes, proceeded to Africa 
under the auspices of the Association, and had made con 
Biderable progress in the interior, when, after having been 
treacherously plundered and left in the Desert, where he 
endured severe privations, he reached Jarra, and died there 
in September, 1791, it being strongly suspected that he way 
murdered. The next individual on whom the Association 
fixed was Mungo Park, who proceeded to the river Gambia 
ill 1795 and thence set out into the interior. The great 
object accomplished during his journey was that of suc- 
cessfully exploring the banks of the Niger, which had pre* 
viously been considered identical with the river Senegal 
In 1804, Park set out upon his second journey, which was 
undertaken at the expense of the Government. The plaD 
of former travellers had been to accompany the caravans 
from one part of the country to another; but in this ex 
pedition P vrk required a party of thirty-six Europeans, 
8ix of whom were to be seamen and the remainder soldiers 
it being his intention, on reaching the Niger, to build two 
vessels, and to follow with his party the course of the river 
If the Congo and the Niger were the same stream, as was 
then supposed, he anticipated little difficulty in his enter- 
prise ; but if; as was also maintained, the Niger terminated 
in swamps and morasses, many hardships and dangers wei*e 
expected in their subsequent progress. Park at length 
reached the Niger, accompanied cnly by seven of his party 



SKETCH OP AFRICAN DISCOVER r 89 

all of whom were in a state of great woaknoss from the. 
effects of the climate. They bailt on^ vessel, and, on the 
I7th of November, 1805, were ready to embark on th<3 
river, previous to which Park sent despatches to Enirland 
His party was now reduced to five, his brother-in-law having 
died a few days before. Park's spirit, however, remained 
andaunted. " Though all the Europeans who are with m^ 
should die," said he, in his last letters to England, '^ and 
though I myself were half dead, I would still persevere; 
and, if I could not succeed in the object of my journey, 1 
would at least die in the Niger." He embarked, therefore, 
with the intention of sailing down the river to its mouth, 
wherever that might be; but, after passing Timbuctoo and 
Beveral other cities, he was kilkd in the Niger, at a place 
called Boussa, a short distance below Yaouri. No part of 
his journal after he left Sansanding has ever been recovered. 
In 1797, the African Association had engaged Mr. Home- 
mann, a German, who left Cairo in September, 1798, with 
the intention of carrying into effect the objects of the As- 
sociation by proceeding as far southward and westward aa 
He could get. In his last despatches he expressed himself 
confident in being able to suc<}e«d in reaching a greater 
distance into the interior than any other Euroj^ean traveller; 
but, after reaching Bornou, no certain intelligence was ever 
afterward heard concerning him. Mr. Ilorncmann learned 
many particulars which had not before been known in 
Europe respecting the countries to the cast of Timbuctoo 
Mr. Nicholls, who was next engaged, arrived in the Gulf 
of Benin in November, 1804, and died soon afterward of 
the fever of the country. Another German, Boentzen, waa 
next sent to Africa. He had bestowed extraordinary pains 
in making himself acquainted with the prevailing language, 
and, throwing off his costume, proceeded in the character 
of a Mussulman, but unhappil}^ was murdeied by his guidoa 
on his way to Soudan. The next traveller sent out by tho 
Association was Burckhardt, a Swiss. Ho spent several 
fears in acquiring a knowledge of the language and customs 

87» 



590 SKETCH OP AFRICAN DISCOVERY. 

3f tbe people be intetded to visit, and, like Mr Boentzen, 
assumed the characteristics of a Mussiilman. He died at 
Cairo in 1817, his travels having been chiefly confined to 
the Abyssinian conntries. 

In 1816, an expedition was sent out by the GovcTmniont^ 
under the command of Captain Tuckcy, to the rivei Congo, 
under the idea, in which Park coincided, that it and the 
Niger were the same river. Captain Tuckey ascended tho 
Congo for about two hundred and eighty miles. At the 
same time, Major Peddie, and, after his death, Captain 
Campbell, proceeded from the mouth of the river Senegal 
fts far as Kaknndy. In 1817, Mr. BoAvdich explored the 
countries adjoining Cape Coast Castle. In 1820, Mr. Jack- 
son communicated an interesting account of the territories 
of Timbuctoo and Houssa, from details which he bad col- 
lected from a Mussulman merchant. In 1819 and in 1821, 
tbe expeditions of Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon, and of Major 
Laing, showed the strong and general interest on the sub- 
ject of African geography. In 1822, the important expedi- 
tion under Major Den ham and Lieut. Clapperton set forth. 
After crossing the Desert, the travellers reached the great 
inland sea or lake called the Tchad, the coasts of which to 
the west and south were examined by Major Denhara. 
This lake, from four hundred to six hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, is one of the most remarkable featureii iii 
tbe physical geography of Africa. Lieut. Clapperton, in 
the mean time, proceeded through the kingdom of Bornou 
and the country of the Fellatahs to Sockatoo, situated on a 
stream supposed to run into the JJiger. A great mass of 
niformation respecting the countries eastward of Timbuctoo 
was the result of hia expedition. As to the course of the 
Niger, very little intelligence was obtained which could be 
depended upon : the natives stated that it flowed into the 
sea at Funda, though what place on the coast was mtant 
still remained a conjecture. Soon after his return to Lng- 
land, Clapperton was sent out hy tho Government to cod- 
duct a now oxpeditio i, and was directed to pix>ceed to tb« 



4 



SKETCH OP AFRICAN DISCOVERY 591 

BceriC of hip former adventures. Having reached tho Nigea 
at Bous.sa, where Park was killed, he passed through varioas 
countries, and reached Sockatoo, where he died; and Lan- 
der, his friend and servant, commenced his return to Eng- 
land with Ciapperton's journals and papers. Major Jmng^ 
meanwhile, had visited Timbuctoo, and transmitted home 
accounts of this famous city, where he spent some weeks j 
but on his return he was murdered, and his papers have 
never been recovered. We have not space to allude to the 
many well-executed expeditions which have proceeded 
from Cape Town for the purpose of exploring South 
Africa, but have confined ourselves to those exertions which 
had for their object the elucidation of the question concern 
ing the course and termination of the Niger, and were con- 
sequently directed to Central Africa. 

The termination of the Niger had long been one of the 
most interesting problems in African geography, and we 
have now reached the period when, on this point, fat^ 
were substituted for conjecture and hypothesis. The river 
had first been seen by Park, near Sego, the capital of Baia- 
barra. It was called by the natives the Joliba, or " Great 
Water;" and Park described it as "flowing slowly to the 
eastward." lie followed the course of the river for about 
three hundred miles, and was told that a journc}^ of ten 
days would bring him to its source. At Sockatoo, Lieut. 
Clapperton found that it was called the Quorra, by whioh 
name it is known in the most recent maps, it having re- 
ceived the name of the Niger, in the first instance, from ita 
eu])pu8ed identity with the Nigir of the ancients. The 
want of information concerning the course and termination 
of this mysterious river, until determined by actually pro- 
ceeding down its channel to the sea, was, as may be sup- 
posed, a fruitful source of speculation among ^.Tcographera. 
By some it was supposed to flow into the N'le; others 
Imagined that a great cenful lake received its waters. 
Major Rennel, an authority of great weight, came to the 
conclusion that, after passing Timbuctoo, tho Niger flo^ A 



S^2 SKETCH OP AFRICAN DISCOVERY. 

a thouflaTid miles in an easterly direction, and terminated 
TitL a Jake or swamp; others supported the opinion that its 
waters were lost in the arid sands of the Desert; while the 
Congo was said by many to bo its outlet. Major Laing, bj 
Bscertaining the source of the Niger to be not more than 
eixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, proved that 
^t could not flow into the IN'ile ; and Benhara and Clappei- 
ton demonstrated that it did not, as had been supposed, 
discharge itself into the Lake of Bornou. 

Eichard and John Lander, in 1830, under the auspices 
€kf the British Government, solved the long-disputed problem 
of the course of the Niger by sailing down on its waters 
from Boussa to the ocean, where it was found to terminate 
in what was called the Nun, or First Brass Eiver, from tho 
oegro town of Brass situated on its banks. 

An expedition under the auspices of the British Govern- 
taent, and headed by Br, Henry Barth, attended by Br. 
€h"erberg and Mr. James Eichardson, was sent out in 1849 
to prosecute discoveries in Northern Central Africa. Theii 
travels and researches into the history and present state of 
the interior tribes were continued till 1855, and their results 
have recently been published by Br. Barth. Br. Overberg 
died in 1854, and was buried on the shores of Lake Tchad 
or Tsad. Mr. Eichardson also fell a victim to the climate 
before the close of the expedition. 

Br. Barth visited the countries of Bornou, Kanem, Man- 
dara, Bagirmi, and others previously explored by Benhara 
and Clapperton, and carried his researches much farther* 
reaching the eighth degree of north latitude. His volumet 
contain much curious and minute information. 

The following extract from the preface gives a summary 
of Ms travels : 

** Extending over a tract of country of twenty-four degrees 
&om north to south, and twenty degrees from east to west, in 



SKETCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVERY, 593 

the broadest part of the continent of Africa, my travels neces- 
sarily comprise subjects of great interest and diversity. 

" After having traversed vast deserts of the most barren soil, 
and scenes of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile 
lands irrigated by large navigable rivers and extensive central 
lakes, ornamented with the finest timber, and producing vari- 
ons species of grain, rice, scsamum, ground-nuts, in unlimited 
abundance, the sugar-cane, &c., together with cotton and 
indigo, the most valuable commodities of trade. The whole 
of Central Africa, from Bagirmi to the east as far as Timbuctu 
to the west (as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these 
products. The natives of these regions not only weave their 
own cotton, but dye their home-made shirts with their own 
indigo. The river, the far-famed Niger, which gives access to 
these regions by means of its eastern branch, the Ben u we, 
which I discovered, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet 
of water for more than six hundred miles into the very heart 
of the country. Its western branch is obstructed by rapids 
at the distance of about three hundred and fifty miles from the 
coast ; but even at that point it is probably not impassable in 
the present state of navigation, while, higher up, the river 
opens an immense high-road for nearly one thousand miles into 
the very heart of Western Africa, so rich in every kind of 
produce. 

" The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions 
traversed by me exhibit, is also observed with respect to maa. 
Starting from Tripoli in the north, we proceed from the settle 
ments of the Arab and the Berber, the poor remnants of the 
vast empires of the middle ages, into a country dotted with 
splendid ruins from the period of the Roman dominion, through 
the wild roving hordes of the Tawarek, to the Negro and half- 
Negro tribes, and to the very border of the South African 
nations. In the regions of Central Africa there exists not one 
and the same stock, as in South Africa, but the greatest diver- 
sity of tribes, or rather nations, prevails, with idioms entirely 
distinct. " 



594 SKETCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVERY* 

The results of Dr. Livingstone's last voyages of explo- 
ration have greatly increased our knowledge of Southern 
and Central Africa, as will readily be seen by the readers 
of this volume, in which the condensation of these results 
have been oiven. Of course the chief objects which attract 
at first the attention of explorers, are the broad geographi- 
cal features of the country, the course of its rivers, the 
mountain ranges, and all matters which come more par- 
ticularly under the head of physical geography. The 
mineral deposits, or the agricultural advantages of a coun- 
try are, as a rule, discovered oidy after a more minute in- 
vestio-ation of its natural conditions than it is possible for 
an explorer to make. The field of Africa has, however, 
been o[)ened, and the recent discoveries in South Africa of 
«le posits of diamonds has attracted immigration, such as 
the modern world has seen attracted to California and 
Australia, by the discovery of the gold deposits in these 
two countries. As in botii of these cases, the attraction of 
a large population from the civilized portions of the world, 
has brought together specialists of various kinds, and a 
wide spread and scientific examination of tlie territor}' hns 
led to tl)e discovery of various other sources of wealth. 
In South Afi'ica, near Cape Town, deposits of gold, silver, 
copper, lead, and coal, the most important mineral deposit, 
since it affords the power absolutely necessary for our 
modern industry, have been found. Perhaps the most 
staitling of these instances of modern discoveries is that 
of the diamond fields of South Africa. It is impossible to 
accurately estimate the number of diamonds wliich have 
thus been thrown into the circulation of the world's wealth, 
))ut it is something enormous, and hitherto in the modern 
world's history unprecedented. Our illustration of the 
works at New Rush, or Colesberg Ko[)je, will give a better 
idea of the manner in which this new and singular industry 
is conducted, than pages of mere description could do. 
Kopje means hillock, and an idea can best be formed of this 
spot by imagining a gigantic mole-hill. 



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o 
w 

GO 
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SKETCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVERY. 59t 

When diamonds were first found here, the land was free 
to any one to search over, but the news of their discovery 
led to the influx of such a lai'ge body of persons, to engage 
in this work, that, as in California and Australia, the right 
of private property began soon to assert itself, and claims 
began immediately to rise in value, until a good one, thirty 
feet square, commands already $15,000. 

Already about Kopje is gathered a population of about 
fort}' thousand people. The tents which they have erected 
for their accommodation are seen in the distance in our 
illustration. The New Rush is eight hundred 3'ards wide, 
with eight parallel roads running through it, along which 
the dirt from the excavations below is carted awa}'. At 
first there was no organization of the labor, and no arrange- 
ment by which the private interests of those engaged in it 
should be prevented from becoming detrimental to the pub- 
lic welfare. In consequence, the private excavations have 
been carried on as far, or in some cases, farther, than cither 
safety or a fair prospect for profit dictated, and without 
any regard for preserving the roads. In many cases, also, 
these roadway's were left so narrow that there was hardly 
room for two carts to pass, and now they are really dan- 
gerous, having become, as they are, narrow causeways, 
seventy or eighty feet high, and being unstayed or sup- 
ported by any but the most temporary appliances. 

This place, New Rush, is the only one which is still 
considered as a profitable spot for diamond digging. 
Other places, as Hebron, Pluel, Klipdrift and Du Toil's 
Pan, have been chiefly exhausted, and diamond digging 
tliere requires too much patience to suit such an adven- 
turous class as generally engage in speculative labor of 
this kind. 

The oold fields are about three hundred miles from the 
banks of the Vaal, and tlie last town on the outskirts of 
civilization is Pretonia, about one hundred and fifty miles 
from Vaal. With the attention which has thus been calltMl 
to Africa, the next twenty years will most probably lead 



598 



SKETCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVERY. 



to such explorations as will not only give us a complete 
knowledge of its physical features, but also lead to an 
organized introduction of civilization into this country-, 
and an orderly development of its resources through the 
appliances of modern industry. 



THE END. 



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